SIMUL8R Mark II PVC plans - bottom of pg #7, donations accepted
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Simul8r,

Yes I live in North Carolina, went to home depot and picked up all of this stuff this afternoon. I looked and looked for those Simpson strong ties and could not find them. I finally asked a guy that worked and showed him a picture of them and he had no clue. Im going back to Lowes tonight to get some wood for it and those clamps if I can find them. You mentioned that the wood base for the seat was 23in x 23in correct? and do you have any other dimensions for the pedals and the wheel? Lastly if I can't find those clamps would 2'' regular pipe clamps work? or are the U Bolts a better option? Thanks!

P.S The hacksaw was a workout! But without the mitre box it would have sucked!

This is what I was afraid of. Have you checked in the lumber area where they hold their roofing, joist and other metal brackets used for construction? I can also say that these Simpson Ties are also sold on Amazon.com, just do a search for Simpson Strong tie PGT2Z-R. And no I wouldn't suggest just regular pipe straps but rather 'U' bolt clamps preferrably automotive type. Bring a sample of a PVC pipe with you and size it up to a 'U' bolt that fits snuggly around it at an auto parts store. They fit better than what you will find at a hardware store from my experience although you could try. Remember, this is a DIY project where parts have to be sourced from whatever or whereever possible. Just like a salvaged seat from a junkyard, good luck.

And yeah, I bet that arm was sore afterwards :lol:

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UPDATE:

Ok, I couldn't go to sleep :evil: . It has come to my attention that most builders would rather have an adjustable wheel deck than a fixed stationary one. The problem is the availability of specialized parts in your area such as the Simpson Strong Ties which I constantly have been suggesting or the use of 'U' bolts. Well I think I came up with a more simplier and efficient way to build a pivoting wheel deck using the most common materials available in your local hardware stores such as the plain and ordinary pipe strap. However, It involves having to add another 'T' PVC connector onto the top pipe. I'll have to prove this to myself first that it does work without any issues by buying the parts and trying it on my rig. So bare with me on this cause I do have a day job :lol: and it will have to be after tomorrow when I can test and hopefully show this to those interested. So stay tuned.

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Hey guys, I am new here but been lurking around the forum and watching the show forever. Anyway, I want to build a PVC rig myself, very different to what I have seen here (btw really nice job what you guys have done here) but I am having hard time finding them PVC pipes here in UK. Any British around here who know where I can get hold of the materials necessary for the build?

Have you tried looking at Screwfix mate. I've just had a browse and they do 40mm(1.5") waste pipe and fittings too although the 'T' connectors are slightly differant to the ones SIMUL8R uses. An rough pricecheck just for the pipe and fittings would be about £46 (inc VAT)

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Hey guys, I am new here but been lurking around the forum and watching the show forever. Anyway, I want to build a PVC rig myself, very different to what I have seen here (btw really nice job what you guys have done here) but I am having hard time finding them PVC pipes here in UK. Any British around here who know where I can get hold of the materials necessary for the build?

50mm PVC pipe in the UK looks to be available from swimming pool accessory suppliers. Run a quick Google search but this is one possible supplier - http://www.onlinepoolstore.co.uk/grey-pvc-pipe--fittings-90-c.asp

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PEDAL MOUNT

Parts needed:

2 - pipe straps

1 - Wooden board (1/2 to 3/4 inch thick) measuring 15 inches wide x 20 inches long

4 - sets of nut/bolt washers (If board is to loose then screw 1-1/2 inch wooden screws through the board to the bottom pipe to keep it nice and tight)

Note if rake is to steep then fasten board underneath front pipe instead of top as shown with the straps.

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FRONT TABLE &/OR OPTIONAL FIXED WHEEL DECK

 

EDIT:  PLEASE NOTE THE PICTURES YOU SEE IN THIS POST WERE TAKEN PRIOR TO A CHANGE TO THE PIPE DESIGN SURROUNDING THE FRONT TABLE TOP SECTION.

 

Parts needed:
2 - pipe straps
6 - sets of nut/bolt washer sets (for straps and PVC caps)
1 - Wooden board (1/2 to 3/4 inch thick) measuring 26 inches wide x 26 inches long

Note: If planning a pivoting wheel deck you will have to cut out a notch to accomodate the wheel deck within the table. If using the table for a fixed wheel deck then allow 6 inches from edge of top pipe to end of table towards you while sitting in the seat as shown to mount the wheel. I would suggest rounding this area so that it wouldn't be as painful while entering or exiting the rig.

I'm happy to say that this table/pvc top combination is quite strong, I weigh roughly 220 pounds and I sat on it as a test with no problem. So a large monitor can be placed on top if need be.

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PIVOTING WHEEL DECK


UPDATE 09 May 2012: There has been a modification to the SIMUL8R plans with regards to the top pipe/table support configuration on page 18. This mod interlocks the wheel deck's single top pipe to the front table support providing a much sturdier wheel deck when adding the pipe strap/'U' bolt configuration. The mod still allows for a front table if desired, see pictures below. Please refer to page 9 for details.

Parts needed:
2 - PVC 'T' connector
2 - PVC 4-1/2 inch pipe sections
1 - PVC 10-1/2 inch pipe section to interlock top pipes for strength and as support for pivoting wheel deck using 6" 'U' bolt and pipe straps (see below)
4 - PVC pipe sections roughly 8-1/8 inches long to add on to 'T' connector (Note: both pipe sections should measure 19 inches long total.
1 - Wooden board (1/2 to 3/4 inch thick) measuring 13 inches wide by12 inches long
2 - each pipe straps
4 - sets of nut/bolt/washers for bolting on straps to wooden board (include another set of washers to be used as spacers between straps and board - see picture)
1 - 2 inch wide 'U' bolt approximately 6 inches long
4 - nuts with washers to lock down wooden board

Pictures of the modded wheel deck/table support while combining the pipe straps & 'U' bolt shown below.
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Previous design indicating where to add the pipe straps & 'U' bolt on a shorter pipe.
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SHIFTER MOUNT

Parts needed:

2 - sets of 2 inch wide 'U' bolts approximately 4 inches long

1- Wooden board (1/2 to 3/4 thick) measuring 6-1/2 inches wide to 10 inches long

2 - pieces of 2x4 lumber both 6 inches long

7 to 8 - 4 inch long wooden screws to attach the 2x4's together

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Hi Simul8r! Thank you for all your work! I am in the planning process of this build and am having a problem finding the PVC. In what area of construction is the PVC you use commonly used? The only PVC I can find in our hardware stores are for water drains and sewer lines. Also we use metric system and from my conversion calculations 2" is the same as 50.8mm. Is this correct? I can't imaging a wall 50mm thick. The best I can find is 3mm but they flex fairly easily. We do not have any reference to "Scheduel #40". There are some other numbers, see the picture I have linked..

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In what area of construction is the PVC you use commonly used? The only PVC I can find in our hardware stores are for water drains and sewer lines. Also we use metric system and from my conversion calculations 2" is the same as 50.8mm. Is this correct? I can't imaging a wall 50mm thick. The best I can find is 3mm but they flex fairly easily. We do not have any reference to "Scheduel #40". There are some other numbers, see the picture I have linked..

These pipes/fittings were found in the general plumbing section of my local hardware store. My guess is they can be used for anything whether it be waste, water supply or swimming pool use. The outside diameter of the pipe itself is around 60mm, inside diameter is a little over 52mm while the wall thickness is about 4mm.

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Thank you simul8r for the details :)

I found, as you hinted previous, that these pipes are used in swimming pools here in Europe and I have found some pipes. The dimensions are almost the same, I can go for Outer 50mm, Inner 46,4mm, wall 3,6mm. Whether they are schedule 40 I don't know but the fittings look allot like the ones you use. I did find that some of the T fitting had an indentation on the inside wall while others did not with the normal ones being the shortest. Could this be what you experienced with the various sizes T fittings?

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I did find that some of the T fitting had an indentation on the inside wall while others did not with the normal ones being the shortest. Could this be what you experienced with the various sizes T fittings?

Good observation and that is correct. These indents (on the inside of the fittings) are to prevent the PVC pipes from completely going thru the fittings themselves. The distances of these indents from the center of some of the 'T' connectors I had varied (bought from different stores) making the connector either longer/shorter. I suppose, it depends on who designed and molded it.

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First off I want to thank simul8r for posting this. Without you I'm sure I would be in the Death-Mobile.

I built my rig about two months ago and never found a good stand to hold the 32 inch tv/monitor. I needed something I could use while in my rig and also to use in everyday computing. I didn't want to facebook in the rig. I came up with a way to swing to screen to the desired location.

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simul8r, did you try that spray in bed liner that you pm me about yet? I would like to know what you think of it, I think its the greatest thing since sliced bread when it comes to painting a rig, it doesnt scratch and gives a nice texture imho.

I just took a key to my rig :shock: and on the main surface it scratched an indent into the pvc but it remained black :? , Then I tried in a seam inbetween two joints that wasnt scuffed and it did chip out :cry: then I tried the wood, it gouged into the wood but the color stayed :|

I hope this helps you determine if this is a good way to paint your rig.

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First off I want to thank simul8r for posting this. Without you I'm sure I would be in the Death-Mobile.

I built my rig about two months ago and never found a good stand to hold the 32 inch tv/monitor. I needed something I could use while in my rig and also to use in everyday computing. I didn't want to facebook in the rig. I came up with a way to swing to screen to the desired location.

Hi foots7, I really enjoyed your monitor stand.

I would like you to pass the measures of the PVC used?

I'm thinking of building one for me too.

Thanks

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NOTE - ANOTHER UPDATE: There has been a modification to the SIMUL8R plans shown on page 18. The mod was added after configuring a pivoting wheel deck shown on page 21. Pictures and explainations have been uploaded to both pages.

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I built my rig about two months ago and never found a good stand to hold the 32 inch tv/monitor. I needed something I could use while in my rig and also to use in everyday computing. I didn't want to facebook in the rig. I came up with a way to swing to screen to the desired location.

Very clever foots ;) Kinda demonstrates the strength of a single PVC pipe. Curious though, does the monitor creep down each time you swivel it either side even with the 'U' bolts?

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simul8r, did you try that spray in bed liner that you pm me about yet? I would like to know what you think of it, I think its the greatest thing since sliced bread when it comes to painting a rig, it doesnt scratch and gives a nice texture imho.

I just took a key to my rig :shock: and on the main surface it scratched an indent into the pvc but it remained black :? , Then I tried in a seam inbetween two joints that wasnt scuffed and it did chip out :cry: then I tried the wood, it gouged into the wood but the color stayed :|

I hope this helps you determine if this is a good way to paint your rig.

Not yet drag ;) But I am prepared when that time comes. I think that was a good call on your part to paint the pipes with Bedliner. It should add additional strength and durability to the rig overall. Heck, if some 4 wheel enthusiast are painting their entire vehicles with this stuff then how much better would it be to paint it onto the PVC pipes themselves. Awesome idea buddy and thanks for the info!

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The u-bolts and rock solid in fact I had to take the nuts almost all of the way off to get it adjusted to the right height for the first time. As for the tilt.

When in the rig I need it tilted at one angle so all I do is move it toward my other chair when not racing and there is no flop or or unwanted swing.

If in doubt the wood that the tv mount is on can be made longer to cover the entire distance of the upright it is mounted on. That way it would be supported by the rim of the tee it is on.

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@ Dragracer, guess that time came. I went to town sanding the beast which took about an hour rubbing away with 200ish grit sandpaper. Then painted her down with the bedliner. From the results she came out with a very nice finish. I swear the rig now looks like it was casted in raw black iron from the looks of things. Great idea using bedliner as the paint. BTW, it took me a little over 2 cans to finish the job.

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Hey all,

I'm new to the website but not so new to driving simulators, well to be honest its been driving games for me (Test Drive Unlimited, Dirt 2, Forza 3) but I build my first wood rig a few years ago and have made a few modifications to it over time but recently I've been feeling like taking my passion for driving to the next level and have consequently found this website!!! I'm extremely impressed with this rig and will definitely be building one of my own very soon, the only modification being I thing I"m going to have the long 37" bar on both sides, as I like the feel of climbing into my rig as well as the added option of mounting more things on the left...

Anyway I'll throw some pictures of my old rig up probably pretty soon but a big thanks to Simul8r for sharing your amazing design!!!

-Matt

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