SIMUL8R Mark II PVC plans - bottom of pg #7, donations accepted 53 53

[nerdracer 1]

Well I finished the frame last night, I took some pics with my phone so I hope the quality is ok. There are views from the back and both sides.

The frame is VERY solid once I went around it and really pushed to seat the pipe sections into the joints.

I haven't glued anything yet as I don't have the seat so I may need to make some adjustments. I was worried about the setting time as well as I have used ABS pipe and glue and that stuff leaves very little margin for error.

The left side support is not as clean as I would have liked it but I was working with the joints I had left over and it gets the job done with potential for adding a KB or mouse tray off that side in the future.

@Simul8r, I did go with the straight across style piece for the wheel deck like your Mk II rig rather than the T and I was planning on making it a seperate piece from the monitor table top so that the wheel tilt is still adjustable.

[simul8r 114]

@Simul8r, I did go with the straight across style piece for the wheel deck like your Mk II rig rather than the T and I was planning on making it a seperate piece from the monitor table top so that the wheel tilt is still adjustable.

I see, so you will be using the smaller version of the Simpson clamps 1-1/2" for the wheel deck tilt or are you using 'U' bolts? I had experimented with the 1-1/2"s (pipe & clamp) just to see how they compared to it's larger 2" cousin last year and they didn't hold to well, it still moved easily if you were to force the wheel down or up. I'm guessing there isn't that much surface space on a 1-1/2" pipe to be used for this application with the clamps. As a suggestion, you might be able to get it to work if you kept the wheel deck short only as much as 4" from edge of pipe. There will be less leverage as you operate the wheel while gaming (experiment on your end to see what I'm referring to). Otherwise you could forget about the clamps and just extend the table towards you and mount the wheel to that making it fixed as long as the supporting PVC pipe on the opposite end are secured (screwed) to the table. It's best that I show pictures of what I'm describing here but I have not gotten around to that part yet.

[nerdracer 1]

Thanks for the advice simul8r, I was hoping to use the clamps rather than the U bolts as those would protrude through the top of the wheel deck. I will have to pick those up too, I think I have something similar from a chainlink fence that was removed from my yard but I think they are 1" size.

I am going to visit a local scrap yard tomorrow to pick up a seat so once that is done hopefully I can move forward situating the rest of the parts.

One idea I did have was to lay a strip of that anti-skid stuff which I am currently using under the G27 pedals just on the floor under my desk, along the inside of the clamp which is making contact with the PVC pipe in order to reduce or eliminate any possible slipping. I guess I will just have to see how it goes.

For the table top, I just put spare pieces of PVC into the 45 elbows to show where it would go in the pics. I had an idea to place T junctions at the top of the support pieces and then use various other sized pieces with 90s to form a rectangle piece that would join to the other upright and then the table top could be clamped to that similarly to the wheel deck. I have a bunch of spare MDF that I'll be using for those pieces.

Hopefully I can have some more pics up over the weekend! Can't wait to race in this thing, I currently can't use the clutch pedal otherwise my chair slides straight back across the floor away from the desk =P

[simul8r 114]

Accomplished most of the wood work over the weekend. So far, the reverse pedal and wheel deck, front table and shifter mount are done. I'm still working out the design of the keyboard stand hopefully to have it rotatable where it could be swung in and out of the way of the rig's entry point.

[simul8r 114]

As for the Urethane seat, it's not working out well and will have to change that. I took a trip to a local salvage yard and found a 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT waiting for me. Leather seats included but after bringing the passenger side home I realized the rails/sliders were totally uneven both length and height and would have made installing a bit more difficult. So back it went and found instead a 2000 Hyundai Tiburon with seats made in black fabric. Not exactly sporty but should work well in this case and plus it's lighter in weight compared to the GT.

[BK_NC 73]

Great looking build. I like the redesigned shifter mount also.

[dwells 0]

Hey, new guy here. I'm in the process of finding a sim rig to build, and as far as I can tell, simul8r's rig is the way to go in terms of usability, cost, and aesthetics.

My only issue is that I play Forza on a large projection TV which has the stand built in, so it sits high off the ground. To be able to play comfortably without craning my neck, I'd need the top of the seat cushion to be about 24" off the ground, give or take a few inches. I recently bought a mint BMW E30 seat on the original sliders I'm hoping to use.

Any suggestions on how I could go about modifying the mkI or or mkII rig to raise the whole thing up to fit my needs? I was thinking of just doing a second base out of PVC and attaching the original rig to it using elbow joints and more PVC, but I'm no engineer and have no idea how it'd hold up.

Thanks!

[simul8r 114]

Any suggestions on how I could go about modifying the mkI or or mkII rig to raise the whole thing up to fit my needs? I was thinking of just doing a second base out of PVC and attaching the original rig to it using elbow joints and more PVC, but I'm no engineer and have no idea how it'd hold up.

Two feet is kinda high. I have actually considered building a wooden trolly just incase I wanted to move the rig around outside the house. This would save the PVC pipes/fittings from any damage which I found was happening to the Mk I when I had it in the garage for a while. The stand itself would be made out of 2x4 lumber with castor wheels screwed underneath. However in your case I would consider the tallest castor's I could find say 5 - 6" tall. With the addition of the castors, wooden trolly and a guessimate height of your seat mounted on the rig you might reach that 24 inch mark (give or take). BTW, the advantage of having the trolly seperate from the rig is that you may find yourself switching to something lower than your projected monitor.

To give you an idea of the trolly, here's what I propose. Good luck.

[dragracer 5]

How high was that lift kit roadghost did for his rig? maybe that design would help. I think he posted some pictures towards the middle of the thread. happy hunting

[simul8r 114]

How high was that lift kit roadghost did for his rig? maybe that design would help. I think he posted some pictures towards the middle of the thread. happy hunting

There you go, it just shows that it could be done. The reason I thought of the trolley for my rig was that it was easier to slap wheels onto, was structurely sound (no weak links) and was easier to slip the rig in or out of a box without having to worry about it falling compared to securing it down with straps. The disadvantages I see are that it is bulky and the availability of the large castor wheels in dwells's case.

[dwells 0]

To give you an idea of the trolly, here's what I propose. Good luck.

Awesome, thanks for all the help. I'm probably going to wind up going this route. I'll be moving soon enough and will sadly not be taking my gaming TV with me (she will be missed dearly), so just having a separate lifter makes sense.

How high was that lift kit roadghost did for his rig? maybe that design would help. I think he posted some pictures towards the middle of the thread. happy hunting

I went through the thread and found roadghost's post. Go figure that the image he attached was down. simul8r responded to him with a link to plans for a lift kit on lumenlabs, but go figure that lumenlabs forums are down too. Which is a shame, as I've been planning to rig up a DIY projector for kicks.

Think I'm gonna check the garage and make sure I've got a hacksaw and then head down to home depot to get the PVC. See if I can get this sucker done by the weekend.

[simul8r 114]

I went through the thread and found roadghost's post. Go figure that the image he attached was down. simul8r responded to him with a link to plans for a lift kit on lumenlabs, but go figure that lumenlabs forums are down too. Which is a shame, as I've been planning to rig up a DIY projector for kicks.

Think I'm gonna check the garage and make sure I've got a hacksaw and then head down to home depot to get the PVC. See if I can get this sucker done by the weekend.

Yeah, I think Lumenlab is closing down as we speak. I haven't been able to access it all for some time.

BTW, suggest you get yourself a miter box to go with that hacksaw if your planning on doing the cutting by hand. Just to keep the pipes straight and fitted right. Have fun with the build and don't rush it.

[Sponts 0]

Hey guys, I am new here but been lurking around the forum and watching the show forever. Anyway, I want to build a PVC rig myself, very different to what I have seen here (btw really nice job what you guys have done here) but I am having hard time finding them PVC pipes here in UK. Any British around here who know where I can get hold of the materials necessary for the build?

[dragracer 5]

I went through the thread and found roadghost's post. Go figure that the image he attached was down./quote]

viewtopic.php?f=110&t=5589

He has a couple pics in this thread still. happy building

[simul8r 114]

Hey guys, I am new here but been lurking around the forum and watching the show forever. Anyway, I want to build a PVC rig myself, very different to what I have seen here (btw really nice job what you guys have done here) but I am having hard time finding them PVC pipes here in UK. Any British around here who know where I can get hold of the materials necessary for the build?

Wish I could help you Spont but hoping someone around your area can. Not sure what variant of pipes your side of the world might have available but do look into the thick wall type somewhere in the 4 to 5 milimeters or even thick is better. Good luck.

[KartRacer94 0]

Hey simul8r im new to the site and am about to start piecing together your rig this weekend and was wondering if you had any ideas on how to mount a CSR shifter st to this hing. Thanks!

Tyler

[simul8r 114]

Hey simul8r im new to the site and am about to start piecing together your rig this weekend and was wondering if you had any ideas on how to mount a CSR shifter st to this hing. Thanks!

Tyler

Not familiar with the CSR only from pictures. Can you explain how it generally is mounted and some dimensions maybe I could come up with something. Otherwise, if anyone here who has one and was able to fixed it to their rig could chime in for you.

[sbmarcio 0]

Hi simul8r,

I want build one rig like this. But i don't find in your plans the sizes of wood used and how to fixed the seat in the rig.

Can you help me with this problem?

Thanks

[KartRacer94 0]

http://cdn.dualshockers.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/CSR_Wheel_0051-499x332.jpg

It usually mounts to those 2 side holes with metal rod mounts, I don't have the set yet cause they are still on their way but I will try to look up some dimensions for you. Thanks.

Tyler

[John G. Hill 10]

I witnessed close hand the PVC rig Shaun built. My suggestion; take the two pieces of particle board, and replace it with really nice pieces of walnut or some other exotic wood with a nice grain in it. Give a nice curve to the edges, and you're going to upgrade the look of a great looking rig.

[simul8r 114]

Hi simul8r,

I want build one rig like this. But i don't find in your plans the sizes of wood used and how to fixed the seat in the rig.

Can you help me with this problem?

Thanks

The easiest way I found mounting my first salvaged seat in the Mk 1 was to screw a piece of MDF board to the PVC pipes and bolt the seats rails/sliders to that. Look below.

[simul8r 114]

It usually mounts to those 2 side holes with metal rod mounts, I don't have the set yet cause they are still on their way but I will try to look up some dimensions for you. Thanks.

Tyler

Do you live within the US and have access to any of the Home Depot or Lowes hardware store outlets nearby? If you do then I suggest getting 3 of the Simpson Strong Ties (brackets) I described earlier. 2 for the steering wheel pivot and 1 for the shifter mount. Otherwise you might have to go with 2 inch 'U' bolts to clamp to the pipes. BTW, take a look at the Mk 1 design links posted on the first page over at photobucket to get an idea of the 'U' bolt construction. Plus the the steering wheel is built around another 'T' connection design if that helps.

[sbmarcio 0]

The easiest way I found mounting my first salvaged seat in the Mk 1 was to screw a piece of MDF board to the PVC pipes and bolt the seats rails/sliders to that. Look below.

[attachment=0]seat mount.png[/attachment]

Nice.

I liked the pictures of your pedals and shifter.

Could pass the measure of each piece?

Which measure of wood you used to pedal, shift and steering wheel?

[KartRacer94 0]

Simul8r,

Yes I live in North Carolina, went to home depot and picked up all of this stuff this afternoon. I looked and looked for those Simpson strong ties and could not find them. I finally asked a guy that worked and showed him a picture of them and he had no clue. Im going back to Lowes tonight to get some wood for it and those clamps if I can find them. You mentioned that the wood base for the seat was 23in x 23in correct? and do you have any other dimensions for the pedals and the wheel? Lastly if I can't find those clamps would 2'' regular pipe clamps work? or are the U Bolts a better option? Thanks!

P.S The hacksaw was a workout! But without the mitre box it would have sucked!

[simul8r 114]

Nice.

I liked the pictures of your pedals and shifter.

Could pass the measure of each piece?

Which measure of wood you used to pedal, shift and steering wheel?

You do understand I'm using Logitech's G27 gear which may not fit other brand wheel/pedal layouts. I'm also going inverted pedal so are you referring to that design or the standard 'push down' style?