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SIMUL8R Mark II PVC plans - bottom of pg #7, donations accepted

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Nice seat Flinty, it's got a nice shape to it.  Does appear to have a hint of color difference between the back rest and seat or just might be the angle when the pics were taken.  If so, might I suggest a box of black dye for clothes and again it's only a suggestion.  Just throw dye and covers into the wash machine and cycle.  That should get both to match.

 

Please keep us posted, I'd be interested and thanks for sharing.

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So after seeing the ISR build & review videos then reading through this entire thread I've made the commitment to build one of the MKII rigs thanks to simul8r's generosity in sharing his plans.

I decided my 1st step was to get a descent seat but it had to be cheap. Lucklily I stumbled onto a pair of Suzuki Swift Bucket Seats selling for only AUS$50.

You should have seen the sellers face when I told him what I wanted them for. Priceless!!!

For that price they were too hard to refuse, the added bonus is I have a mate who is going to take the other seat in exchange for PC parts I need to build for this rig.

They were pretty dirty with the passenger side being the best of the two. So I've spent the past 2 days stripping the factory fitted cover so I could clean it thoroughly.

I couldn't believe the amount of crud that came out of it, the lower half turned the washing water a putrid colour.

But I'm real happy with the end result as you can see from these pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/7508178@N06/sets/72157633340820075/

 

 

 

So next step is to get all the PVC, I am hoping a builder mate will get it for trade prices for me.

Nice looking seat there Flinty! I'm interested to see how you're going to go about mounting it to the rig, as I have the same angled metal poles at the front of my Chevrolet Lacetti seat as yours.

 

Good luck building the rig! Remember, measure twice, cut once!

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The sellers face when we tell them the purpose is always priceless. Got mine for USD $34.75 (it was 35, but found a quarter inside the junked car while removing the seat). For mounting the front part you can slide a piece of lumber and use the side part of it to place thr bolts. Or go the badass way and straighten them.

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Thanks for all the encouragement... I'm super excited & motivated to build a great rig. :)

 

simul8r, there isn't much colour difference in reality, I think the fluro lighting caused it to look like that.

The lower part you sit on towards the rear is worn making the pattern look a little different other than that it just has a well used look but the colour does match between the 2 seat sections.

 

Ford3654Eire & Alvin Nieves, yes I have already been thinking on ways to mount it using either of your suggestions but until I build the rig & mount the pedals I'm not sure which way will be best for the driving position I want to achieve.

 

Might be a few weeks before I get all the PVC material sorted but rest assured I'll keep posting updates on my build.

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Just started my rig yesterday.  Been fun gathering up the parts and taking time doing it.

 

Picked up a '93 Mitsubishi Lancer seat at the junk yard for $20.00.  Excellent condition.  Only challenge will be the uneven levels for the bolt holes. 

 

Shopped around for the PVC.  Home Depot & Lowes had same exact pricing.  Then, stopped at a small, local plumbing and electric store and found much better pricing.  T's at the other stores were like $2.56 and at my local Grover's was $1.89.

 

Picked up a very nice Kobalt Miter saw at a pawn shop (laser) for like $75.00

 

Went out for more pipe today and stopped at the culled lumber display at Home Depot and picked up a huge MDF type board for $1.00 and some other boards I think I will try to build a mount for the seat for $0.50 a board.

 

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/70532881/20130426_163302%5B1%5D

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Hey guys. Thinking about making this my self. Living in Denmark and cant seem to find that kind of pvc you guys in the US use. Does anybody have any experience here in nothern europe ? 
Or should I make a MDF one, since MDF is really easy to get.

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Day #2

 

The rig is pretty much complete except for a shifter mount.  Need another length of PVC.  Still undecided if I will extend the sides for triple monitors.

 

And, one piece of advise.  Vacuuming instead of blowing out the PVC residue is the way to go.  The residue sticks to EVERYTHING.

 

Now, have to cut the decks and figure out the seat mounts.  The left rear corner of the seat bracket hole is almost outside the PVC frame and is on a higher plane than the other 3 bracket holes.

 

Not really looking forward to the glue process.  Will likely rivet the joints as well. 

 

After completion and painting, I will then build a platform to raise the rig off the floor to make it easier to get in and out. 

 

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/70532881/Day2Rig

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Hey guys. Thinking about making this my self. Living in Denmark and cant seem to find that kind of pvc you guys in the US use. Does anybody have any experience here in nothern europe ? 

Or should I make a MDF one, since MDF is really easy to get.

Hi, you find everything you need here http://www.teichshop-franken.de/PVC-Fittings-PVC-Rohr/T-Stueck-Y-Stueck-Kreuzstueck-152/. I got all my PVC stuff from there.... Go for diameter 50 or 63 and 16bar. They will ship to Denmark as well.

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Day #2

 

Not really looking forward to the glue process.  Will likely rivet the joints as well. 

 

After completion and painting, I will then build a platform to raise the rig off the floor to make it easier to get in and out. 

 

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/70532881/Day2Rig

No worries, rivets or screws work as well but you may hear a few creeks here and there when in use.

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In the below link is a product we use in the irrigation industry, it is large bore PVC cement, the reason I am posting it here is, it will give you guys more working time with your joints prior to setting. It is designed for large bore PVC but works fine with small guage stuff too, just has the advantage of longer dry time, hope this helps.

 

http://www.hrproducts.com.au/ips-711-weld-on-large-bore#ad-image-0

 

The link is to an Australian supplier, but will give you enough details to find a supplier in your own country.

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Day #3

 

Not much progress today as the seat mounts are going to be a challenge.  I should have spent more time in the junkyard looking for a seat that had even mounting locations.  As it is, I drilled out and ground out the spot welds on the front mounting spots and have to work with the rear mounts where they are. 

 

It also didn't help that the batteries I need for my circular saw were depleted so I couldn't cut my decks. 

 

I decided rather than painting my decks, I'd cover them.  I found some black shelf liner (contact paper) that will serve to nicely cover the MDF boards.  If money weren't an issue, I would have ordered up some diamond plate contact paper at least for the lower deck.  That would probably have looked sweet. 

 

http://www.chicshelfpaper.com/Diamond-Plate-Shelf-Paper-Drawer-Liner.html

 

Hopefully, will figure out the mounting situation tomorrow and start glueing.  I'm taking my time to make sure I get this right.

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Thanks. For paint I used Krylon Fusion. By using it sanding is not required, but I did a light round of sanding just in case. The paint works well on the lumber too. Dont try it on the MDF as it will just absorb it like a sponge. A different method should be used for painting the MDF. I have a step by step procedure, from measuring to final product. With your permission I would like to write a blog about it. That way everyone will have a reference on what to do and for those that are scared of DIY projects.

 

I've decided to cover my MDF with contact paper (aka shelf liner).  I'm hoping it will do a better job hiding the edges when applied properly.  Found some black paper with a faux leather like texture. 

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hello simul8r,

 

The rig is pritty solid. I did have some issues gluing as i had to force some of them as the T's are not 90 degrees but are 92.5 degrees as they were outside pluming, but once glued all solid. Dont notice movement. I think i may build another in a few months, just because i know the 92.5 degrees and get proper 90 degree t's from the web.

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Hello, my name is David. I am
based in Sydney Australia and a friend of mine referred me to this site and the
PVC frame



Firstly thanks to simul8r for
the great idea of  PVC.


I built my own, using similar measurements to the
original design. I had a a few adjustments to make as it wasnt exactly how it
planned, but being PVC, un-screw , cut, re-screw. Beawdy mate!


I have been building home built
motion simulators for the last 3 years, using 12v motors and robot control boards 
http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1393
boards and the software from www.x-sim.de

the software is PC only, sorry console guys, and supports all the popular games like, 

Race 07 series, Rfactor 1 and 2, codemaster series of games, iracing.


This frame uses re-motored
brick spreader actuators I was given by chance.

But really , these motors 

http://www.motiondynamics.com.au/worm-drive-motor-12v-24v-200w-180-rpm-20nm-torque.html

are absolutely excellent. I have them on another frame and they snap as hard and fast as actuators.

 

The actuators are expensive to replace,
like $2500 each or a chinese equivalent at $700 each, less motors.

I had to design my own feedback
setup as actuators didn’t have them.


Back to the frame, it is PN18
high pressure rating pipe that I screwed with self tapper screws together. I
found it surprisingly solid to say the least and considering it is going onto a
motion simulator base I already had

post-13827-0-57867600-1368341101_thumb.j

 

here are some pics of the frame in progress and completion.

I will paint it eventually

post-13827-0-91862800-1368341307_thumb.j

post-13827-0-39286200-1368341343_thumb.j

 

After putting it together, I found it too wide for my current base, the frame was 560mm overall width, but I slimmed it down to 450mm overall width to fit. A snug fit to get into , but I am a scrawny bugger.

Wheel and pedals are Logitech G27 and the sequential shifter on right hand side is home built using a half stuff controller I re-wired and I built a steel frame with micro switches.

 

post-13827-0-03414500-1368341675_thumb.j

post-13827-0-45167800-1368341712_thumb.j

post-13827-0-81969400-1368341753_thumb.j

 

and finally, some motion from it.

Dirt 3 benchmark, 9 year old son as passenger

 

 

 

Cheers, David.

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Very happy that a builder mate offered to get me a good price on the pipe, all up it's only costing me $115 AUS.
Just have to organise delivery then my rig build will start in earnest.


 

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lucky you, mine cost $207 from a wholesaler

 

That was the sort of price if I bought from Bunnings @ RRP.

It probably helped that I'm actually getting double the quantity of everything as a mate will be building one for himself at the same time.

I guess the bigger order meant more margin for a better discount.

 

BTW on a separate topic is anyone else finding it hard to post here, Most of the time a post just continually says "saving" but never actually posts to the thread???

Obviously editing &/or quoting a post works OK though...

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I looked at bunnings but they only had PN9, I was after PN18, of which I found elsewhere.

For a floor static sim, PN9 would do the job.

As mine is motion , I had to use PN18 for strength, of which it does very well. A creak here and there, but no flex.

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Ah I have gone with PN12 as I thought the PN9 was a touch to thin & flexy.

When compared to the measurements of schedule 40 pipe from simul8r I thought PN12 would be the closer match, also PN18 was another 1/3 extra cost of the PN12.

 

For the Aussie folk here, from my research the wall thickness differences of PN9, PN12 & PN18 PVC pipe is;

PN9 = 2.60 +/- 0.2 mm
PN12 = 3.35 +/- 0.25 mm
PN18 = 4.95 +/- 0.35 mm

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