simul8r 114 Report post Posted March 21, 2013 ha i didnt think the originator would be checking out my vids for the newbies, cheers for the feedback I believe you should try to match the seat height to your heel height. Anything more than 10cm lower is getting trucker like. I would be interested in anything created surrounding the use of my plans. I enjoy seeing how others use them to get where they are now which is of course sim racing. The seat/heel height was important when I was building the first Mark I but not to a degree where I had to study and base myself to sport car averages. I merely measured a few domestic cars I own and went from there figuring what was a good height. And of course I wasn't going for F1 style nor a military duece and a half either, just something to have fun with and reasonable to get in and out of. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragracer 5 Report post Posted March 24, 2013 .......................... But I just don't understand the reason for cement or sand to weigh it down. It's not on wheels obviously and your body weight makes it very difficult to slide around especially while simming, not to mention the difficulty added for mobility, IMO. So why is it always asked the purpose to weigh it down? I was wondering the same thing, and haven't seen an answer yet. I'm still using the mk1 from right after you started this thread and its still going strong. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gmohr 0 Report post Posted March 28, 2013 Hi all, Wanted to join up to show off my SIMUL8R based rig, completed this week. It's basically the MK2 design with a couple small mods. First I shortened the runners between the desk side and the chair side. Second, I raised the chair platform about 3 inches. Overall it came out perfect for my 5' 8" frame. I don't know what kind of giants you all must be using the original dimensions If anyone is interested, the seat is from JC Whitney, and was $125 bucks after instant rebate. Hard to beat that! http://www.jcwhitney.com/garage-pro-reclining-racing-seats/p2009764.jcwx?skuId=319401&filterid=u0j1 TY SIMUL8R the design work, this has improved my racing fun tremendously! Regards, George Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simul8r 114 Report post Posted March 30, 2013 TY SIMUL8R the design work, this has improved my racing fun tremendously! Regards, George And thank you for sharing George, greatly appreciate the pics. Your rig turned out to be a clean build, do you plan to have it painted? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gmohr 0 Report post Posted March 30, 2013 Yeah, I'm just waiting on a warm day in the north east, so that I can get the cars out of the garage and spray the pvc. As you can see, I painted the wood with flat black latex in my basement, but the rattle can stuff will kill me in there Having said that, I'll probalby just get lazy and use it just the way it is hahahaha. Regards, George Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forde3654Eire 5 Report post Posted March 31, 2013 Glad to say I've designed a simple stand-alone monitor stand that might go with Simul8r's design here I was going to go triple screens but decided to remain on single for now. My current 24" monitor sits too far back and too low for my liking, even when pulled right up to the base of the wheel. The design will have it sitting almost right on top of the wheel. More expansion "packs" on the way Keyboard mount, proper seat mount, button box mount and a few others. Has anyone figured out a mount for the DSD Pro Sequential shifter to go with Simul8r's rig? Derek was kind enough to send me one free of charge I find it really needs a lot of force to shift, and I'm afraid of damaging the rig. Only solution I can think of now is pulling my rig right up to the wall, and mount the shifter itself to the wall with a small shelf. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simul8r 114 Report post Posted March 31, 2013 Good to hear that you decided on a separated monitor stand and the new upgrades coming about. I look forward to pictures of your new rig and hopefully some fresh paint as well I am curious about your new DSD shifter, I find it hard to believe that it's really that stiff and might damaged the rig unless the PVC pipes used were inferior to begin with. If it was possible then I can't imagine shifting with both hands and steer at the same time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forde3654Eire 5 Report post Posted April 4, 2013 Using schedule 80 PVC pipes, not cheap, really tough. What I'm afraid of is the joints loosening or something like that... or the MDF board breaking. I noticed over time that the MDF I've got is getting... flexible? :S The section sticking out 6 inches over the pipe (where wheel is mounted) flexes quite a bit up and down if I put some force into it. I will give it a try and see how it goes, I plan to mount the shifter onto the base MDF board using a right-angled bracket. If all is well, I will keep it that way. If not, I'll see about mounting it to the wall. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DirtIsForRacing 0 Report post Posted April 10, 2013 Hi guys here is my take on SIMUL8R PVC design, with modifications for the 3 monitors , I am running simvibe chassis mode and 4 ButtKicker mini , the design is very sturdy and turned out very neat .IMG_0050.JPGIMG_0096.JPG The triple monitor stand is the cat's meow. Anyone have the measurements/design? Thanks. Can't wait to build my rig. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alvin Nieves 2 Report post Posted April 10, 2013 Using schedule 80 PVC pipes, not cheap, really tough. What I'm afraid of is the joints loosening or something like that... or the MDF board breaking. I noticed over time that the MDF I've got is getting... flexible? :S The section sticking out 6 inches over the pipe (where wheel is mounted) flexes quite a bit up and down if I put some force into it. I will give it a try and see how it goes, I plan to mount the shifter onto the base MDF board using a right-angled bracket. If all is well, I will keep it that way. If not, I'll see about mounting it to the wall. What thickness are you using for MDF? I would say 0.50" is ok with 0.75 being best, but a little more expensive. The joints would not come loose as long as you fitted them and made sure you got them together (glue, screws, bolts, etc) So far I've had it for seven months and only one joint got separated, but that was in the beginning and it was because I did not place it all the way. Re-fitted and screwed and so far no complaints. BTW simul8r, finally got a warm day here, so got to paint the rig. Its a beauty now. Some stickers and it should be completed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cookie 4 Report post Posted April 13, 2013 My third build, workstation-simrig with swing down keyboard for limited space racing rig workstation. I use a thrustmaster 500rs wheel , and have no problems with monitor movement , the side brace eliminate this. Have been a few comments about it being truck like , I think its more passenger car, but not sports car. The butt to heel height is 200mm(8in) .I dont like the idea that I have to get off floor to get out of my racing rig. I think the most important thing in building a sim rig is your eye horizon with the monitors. ie not looking up or down at them . The first rig I built I glued every joint, and was tricky to get every joint lined up before the glue dried. Best do a dry run first and mark everything. The next 2 rigs I machined through the tees so they could slide onto the pipe, then fully assemble the rig and 1 screw in each joint and no glue. I have other sim racers use my rig and they have commented that it is the best rig they have driven.Good Luck l with you builds. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forde3654Eire 5 Report post Posted April 21, 2013 Is it possible to screw / drill holes in the PVC pipes and joints without breaking them? My rig looks seriously ugly with all the PVC glue that's being used to hold the pipes, however, I'm hoping the paint that I shall be applying will mask the ugliness. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simul8r 114 Report post Posted April 21, 2013 Of course paint covers up imperfections, just give the areas some light sanding and lay on thin coats each time for quick drys. Might I suggest Dupont Bedliner unless you prefer gloss. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simul8r 114 Report post Posted April 21, 2013 BTW simul8r, finally got a warm day here, so got to paint the rig. Its a beauty now. Some stickers and it should be completed. Any updates Alvin, I'd like to see the finish rig if possible. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simul8r 114 Report post Posted April 21, 2013 IMG_0111.JPGIMG_0117.JPGIMG_0119.JPG My third build, workstation-simrig with swing down keyboard for limited space racing rig workstation. I use a thrustmaster 500rs wheel , and have no problems with monitor movement , the side brace eliminate this. Have been a few comments about it being truck like , I think its more passenger car, but not sports car. The butt to heel height is 200mm(8in) .I dont like the idea that I have to get off floor to get out of my racing rig. I think the most important thing in building a sim rig is your eye horizon with the monitors. ie not looking up or down at them . The first rig I built I glued every joint, and was tricky to get every joint lined up before the glue dried. Best do a dry run first and mark everything. The next 2 rigs I machined through the tees so they could slide onto the pipe, then fully assemble the rig and 1 screw in each joint and no glue. I have other sim racers use my rig and they have commented that it is the best rig they have driven.Good Luck l with you builds. Glad to hear that you and your buddies are enjoying it cookie, cheers! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forde3654Eire 5 Report post Posted April 21, 2013 Of course paint covers up imperfections, just give the areas some light sanding and lay on thin coats each time for quick drys. Might I suggest Dupont Bedliner unless you prefer gloss. Thanks Simul8r! No gloss for me I have absolutely no experience painting, which is why I'm waiting for Dad's visit in a few weeks time to help me out. So what is Dupont Bedliner and how do you apply it? Spray? Bush? Or something else? I saw the guys on ISR TV using spray paint, however Dad's favouring paint and brush... will a paint-brush job end up looking messy? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alvin Nieves 2 Report post Posted April 22, 2013 Ok, here is my final rig, from disassembly to painting. Just to honor the final color, some line from the Rolling Stones song Painted Black: I look inside myself and see my heart is black I see my red door and it has been painted black Maybe then I'll fade away and not have to face the facts It's not easy facing up when your whole world is black Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simul8r 114 Report post Posted April 22, 2013 LOL! this pic looked like something you would do chin-ups with. Great job on the painting, looks better than just plain white. Thanks for sharing, bud! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simul8r 114 Report post Posted April 22, 2013 I saw the guys on ISR TV using spray paint, however Dad's favouring paint and brush... will a paint-brush job end up looking messy? Well, brushes leave brush strokes when dried. Spray has more of a cleaner look when layed on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alvin Nieves 2 Report post Posted April 22, 2013 Thanks. For paint I used Krylon Fusion. By using it sanding is not required, but I did a light round of sanding just in case. The paint works well on the lumber too. Dont try it on the MDF as it will just absorb it like a sponge. A different method should be used for painting the MDF. I have a step by step procedure, from measuring to final product. With your permission I would like to write a blog about it. That way everyone will have a reference on what to do and for those that are scared of DIY projects. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simul8r 114 Report post Posted April 22, 2013 ...I have a step by step procedure, from measuring to final product. With your permission I would like to write a blog about it. That way everyone will have a reference on what to do and for those that are scared of DIY projects. Well, it is your build and I thank you for asking as long as you reference where the original plans came from then I'm fine. Take care. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forde3654Eire 5 Report post Posted April 23, 2013 Question about the seat height. For several months now I've had my seat sit on 4 long blocks of wood arranged to form a square, sitting on top of the PVC pipes. Seemed to work fine, seat height was around 14 inches from the ground. I finally decided that was too high. Removed the blocks, and also increased monitor height so now my eyes are level with the center of the monitor, now the seat sits just under 12 inches, my shoulders are in-line with my hands when holding the wheel. I instantly found myself able to drive better! So the question is... what is the right seat height? The MDF board I'll be using as a base for the seat will allow it to be seated at almost exactly 12 inches... need it be higher or lower? I am not too concerned about the horizontal movement of the seat as much as the vertical, as I can change that on the fly using the seat lever. Vertical position will be permanent, which is why I want to get it right the first time. EDIT: On another topic, I may get rid of the table-top MDF board altogether, leaving only the MDF mounting area for the wheel, which will be bolted to the horizontal pipe closest to me, as well as the perpendicular pipe which connects to the rear horizontal pipes (to eliminate any rotating of the base). Purpose of this is to allow the "legs" of my single monitor stand to be "inside" the rig rather than out, making the stand less of an eyesore. What I want to make sure of... does the table-top provide any critical bracing to the rig? I don't want to remove it only to have my rig fall apart in the middle of a race. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alvin Nieves 2 Report post Posted April 23, 2013 Seat height is relative for everyone. Just do some trial and error and see which combination is best for you eyes and arms. Regarding the MDF, it helps only if it its bolted directly into the pipes. If it is held by brackets to the pipes then no. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simul8r 114 Report post Posted April 23, 2013 This may be silly but I like to think of wheel height as close to be the handling of a "Ma Deuce" or in official terms here in the US - the Browning .50 Caliber Machine Gun. Point by keeping sights on target and hang on for the ride of your life! Same with the wheel as long as your looking over it and not thru it. Apparently, it seems to be working for you as you later found out so your going in the right direction. Seat in relation to pedal position IMHO is a matter of how you want to imagine yourself racing whether it be F1 or standard Ralley. F1 being more extreme in terms of getting in and out of. As far as the table top goes, every bit of attachment whether it be glued, screwed or strapped adds to the rig's integrity but with that said the rig should still be capable of handling the forces of most wheels without the table as I've seen from most builders in the past. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dukester 2 Report post Posted April 26, 2013 So after seeing the ISR build & review videos then reading through this entire thread I've made the commitment to build one of the MKII rigs thanks to simul8r's generosity in sharing his plans. I decided my 1st step was to get a descent seat but it had to be cheap. Lucklily I stumbled onto a pair of Suzuki Swift Bucket Seats selling for only AUS$50. You should have seen the sellers face when I told him what I wanted them for. Priceless!!! For that price they were too hard to refuse, the added bonus is I have a mate who is going to take the other seat in exchange for PC parts I need to build for this rig. They were pretty dirty with the passenger side being the best of the two. So I've spent the past 2 days stripping the factory fitted cover so I could clean it thoroughly. I couldn't believe the amount of crud that came out of it, the lower half turned the washing water a putrid colour. But I'm real happy with the end result as you can see from these pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157633340820075/ So next step is to get all the PVC, I am hoping a builder mate will get it for trade prices for me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites