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SIMUL8R Mark II PVC plans - bottom of pg #7, donations accepted

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Hi guys here's my second build for a mate . Build tip if you have access to a lathe , machine through the 50 mm tees and make it a snug  fit on your pipe . Make your 50 mm pipe ( class 18 ) cuts full lengths sides and verticals then slide your tee,s roughly into position then assemble the whole rig with no glue. Square everything up and 1 screw in each joint is sufficient. This tends to be more rigid as there is no joins in the major parts. Hope these tips can make it easy for you to build your own rig . Thanks  SIMUL8R for the inspiration  .      

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Hi guys here's my second build for a mate . 

 

You're welcome cookie and nice work. Question though, the shifter bar and shifter plate on your left appears to be cocked or angled outwards, was that an error or did your buddy desired it in that position?

 

Also, how are you mounting the seat.  Can you explain that pipe hanger bar the seat is on?

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You're welcome cookie and nice work. Question though, the shifter bar and shifter plate on your left appears to be cocked or angled outwards, was that an error or did your buddy desired it in that position?

 

Also, how are you mounting the seat.  Can you explain that pipe hanger bar the seat is on?

Yes the shifter bar was left unfinished in that photo, let him set that how it suited his G27 shifter

I pressed the seat mounts out off flat bar then welded them to steel angle, but you could use steel pipe cut in half that fits the PVC.

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Still sporting a single screen setup :P Looking to build a 3 monitor stand or frame. Just to throw in my 2 cents... the top of the side-arm that the shifter is mounted on, the 90 degree connector... that's a great place to mount a button box! Got myself a $5 external numpad and mounted it onto that!

 

 

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What did I miss? :P Any new developments? :D I've had my Simul8r rig for a few months now, loving it! Just waiting to paint it. Anybody care to share any painting guides?

If you clean the PVC with acrylic thinners , this makes the PVC tacky and allows the paint to stick better, I used hammertone or hammertex paint,, refer to my previous posts to check it out . 

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Glad to see the new developments here.  I have build one myself using SlowEddy's design, but I plan to incorporate some of the ideas I have seen here.  I need to create the shifter mount with mouse holder.  Saw some great ideas for this here and cannot wait to get started working on this project again.

 

Here is a picture of it just after I completed the mounts for the wheel, seat & pedals. http://www.nogripracing.com/gallery/showfull.php?photo=135444  Since then I have redesigned the base for the seat to lighten the weight and also painted the front half of the rig.

 

If anyone is interested, I have an extra seat that is identical to the one in the picture. I had to buy the pair in order to get the seat I wanted.  PM me and I can give you more detail about the racing seat I have.

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Glad to see the new developments here.  I have build one myself using SlowEddy's design, but I plan to incorporate some of the ideas I have seen here.  I need to create the shifter mount with mouse holder.  Saw some great ideas for this here and cannot wait to get started working on this project again.

A 2nd build?  Nice, looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

 

Well simil8tr i have just orded all my pipe so lets hope i get it right ill keep a record of my build and post when done  :shock:

Take your time with it, ask any questions you may have with the build.  Best of luck!

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Really liking all the recent posts, great variants there.

 

Here is my variation - I tried to raise it slightly for access but keep a layed out seating position, also mine is modular so it comes apart for moving to garage for more mods (no loss in strength), and i inverted the fanatec pedals. In short, I found that the original design is pretty right on, & messing with it was a pain because you screw up your seating posi. Raise the whole thing on a timber base if you want it up. And inverting the Fanatec pedals gives no gain in realism feel, only looks. Also inverted my mate;s Clubsport V2 pedals. Works fine eventually but not really worth the effort again.

 

Pipe fittings are much cheaper online, I recommend getting the fittings (T-pieces, elbows etc) from www.pipeonline.com.au  (in Australia). It was about $95 delivered from Perth to Melbourne. Buy pipe length local as this is normally cheap. Avoid buying weaker DWV (drainage waste vent) pipe which has a wall thickness of 1-2mm, stick to Schedule 40 type.

 

I made 4 videos on my journey to help the community get the best out of your build (& save trawling through 26 pages here!) 

 

Hints & tips for building a PVC Sim driving rig  > See playlist for 4 parts

 

Fanatec Pedal Inversion - Hints and tips

 

And be sure to check this great video out - especially thinking about changing seating position

Anatomy of a Driving Simulator

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HDR PVC LQ SLR.tiff

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thanks for the advise i am on my way now all pipes cut and a dry build found some bad use of a tape lol 

A 2nd build?  Nice, looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

 

Take your time with it, ask any questions you may have with the build.  Best of luck!

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Hey fellas, I've decided to take the steps to going triple screens. Not sure if anyone has posted a design for triple screen mounts yet for Simul8r's rig. If a design is already out, please let me know.

Personally, I would not permanently attach a screen mount to the rig. Although the rig is solid, the subtle vibrations produce while simming will transfer to the monitors due to leverages and weight of the monitors themselves. Build a separate stand, this way you will even have more adjustability, along with the ingame adjustments, to move you virtual dashboard forward or back if needed.

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simul8r - thx for idea - it's great.

 

I plan to build a PVC rig, but it needs to be a little bit mobile, so guys tell me how much does it wieght, doesn't matter with or without seat, just tell me the weight.

 

THX in advance!

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hey sim, just a thought but have you had any kickback from the 2" pvc pipe industry, man with all these rigs out there you must be providing a good 20% of all pvc sales worldwide... :-P i use this stuff in my day job and every time im under a sink i think of simming now, if i havent said it already then top work, youve provided a lot of people with a cost effective way to get racing and its great to see others with diferent takes on this simple to build but very effective rig build, well done sir

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Really liking all the recent posts, great variants there.

 

Here is my variation - I tried to raise it slightly for access but keep a layed out seating position, also mine is modular so it comes apart for moving to garage for more mods (no loss in strength), and i inverted the fanatec pedals. In short, I found that the original design is pretty right on, & messing with it was a pain because you screw up your seating posi. Raise the whole thing on a timber base if you want it up.

Exactly, my rule of thumb while I was designing/building the Mark I & II was to keep the front of seat at most 12 inches from the ground otherwise your loosing the laid out posture and more towards a trucker stance.  Of course if that's what's preferred then it's fine.

 

BTW, Hugo - enjoyed the vids.

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hey sim, just a thought but have you had any kickback from the 2" pvc pipe industry, man with all these rigs out there you must be providing a good 20% of all pvc sales worldwide... :-P i use this stuff in my day job and every time im under a sink i think of simming now, if i havent said it already then top work, youve provided a lot of people with a cost effective way to get racing and its great to see others with diferent takes on this simple to build but very effective rig build, well done sir

Gee, I wish!  But it's like you mentioned, it's just the idea my plans provided others the help they needed in their goals to get to simming.  Cheers!

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Just a quick note, I am really interested in making one of these for the fun of it, and the fact they are pretty much fully customisable.

 

But the one thing I notice is that a lot of guys still have a jungle of cables lying around here, there, and everywhere. Why not drill some holes and use the rig frame as a conduit for the cables?

 

Has anyone else done this?

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anybody out there filled it with expanding foam, liquid cement, or sand to weigh it down, just an idea??

Now expanding foam is a good idea.  It would add to core strength.  It's light that wouldn't add much to the rig in order to move around if need be.  But I just don't understand the reason for cement or sand to weigh it down.  It's not on wheels obviously and your body weight makes it very difficult to slide around especially while simming, not to mention the difficulty added for mobility, IMO.  So why is it always asked the purpose to weigh it down?

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Exactly, my rule of thumb while I was designing/building the Mark I & II was to keep the front of seat at most 12 inches from the ground otherwise your loosing the laid out posture and more towards a trucker stance.  Of course if that's what's preferred then it's fine.

 

BTW, Hugo - enjoyed the vids.

 

ha i didnt think the originator would be checking out my vids for the newbies, cheers for the feedback

 

As you mention the seat height to pedal height is very important. that was the one thing that really caught me out, I wish you had emphasised this in your plans! 

 

I believe you should try to match the seat height to your heel height. Anything more than 10cm lower is getting trucker like. 

 

as requested by a fellow sim racer, this is what i ended up with: 

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if you want to hear more i got a new vid up too

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