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SIMUL8R Mark II PVC plans - bottom of pg #7, donations accepted

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Cutting took about 30 minutes, I had pre-measured and marked all my cuts the night before so I just double checked as I went and it was quick.

With the addition of the left rail my build required around 32' of pipe so I had to get 4 10' pieces, just an fyi that if you go with only 1 side rail you can save a few bucks and pipe there.

Thanks for the view! I'm about to take a final exam then I'm going home to try out the 3" side spacers and mock up the mounting work.... more progress pictures soon!! :D

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Update: Definitely going to use 3" sections on the side arms and I'm a little hung up on how to mount my wheel... the difficulty is right now I have the Microsoft one that has one big clamp in the center and with the plan I had it was right where where the pipe is.... I'm going to end up doing the style with the U-Bolt.

Also, how were you guys able to get the Simpson brackets on after painting? I don't see how they will slip around the pipe because their so heavy duty and yet I see you installed them after gluing and painting. I bought 7 of them today and was very impressed with their strength.

Wood work starting tomorrow!

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I went to Bunning's and Mitre10 (I'm in Australia) to do some initial pricing of PVC joints and pipes. Between the two stores the best price I could get was about $AU182.00 ($US179.61).

This is based on purchasing the various items from the two stores and does not include glue or cutting tools, both of which I will need to purchase, so I would expect these prices to blow out to over the $200.00 mark.

Interestingly the difference in prices between the two stores was up to 45% depending on the item.

Anyway, I will continue to do a little more shopping around before I start handing over the cash....

Oh, if there's any "tradies" in the south eastern suburbs of Melbourne who could sort me out with Trade rates that would be great. ;)

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Also, how were you guys able to get the Simpson brackets on after painting? I don't see how they will slip around the pipe because their so heavy duty and yet I see you installed them after gluing and painting. I bought 7 of them today and was very impressed with their strength.

1. Remove the screw (rachet with a 7/16 deep socket works well)

2. Force bracket around PVC pipe. (you might have to 'slightly' bend it open by hand to do this)

3. Once on, replace screw - position - and tighten (you might have to force the bracket close in order to get the srew started)

4. Might have minor paint scratches but at least bracket is on, if desired then touch up with a little paint and small artist brush. Note: so far the bedliner I used on my rig shows very little scarring after applying brackets this way. It has also provided a better gripping surface for the Simpsons Ties IMO, just FYI.

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I went to Bunning's and Mitre10 (I'm in Australia) to do some initial pricing of PVC joints and pipes. Between the two stores the best price I could get was about $AU182.00 ($US179.61).

That is pricey, you could look into ABS rather than PVC if it makes any difference in price. I've seen the first version of my rig (MK I) built by others in ABS which appeared as an alternate material. Their design is a little different than PVC here in the US with the advantage of it being manufactured in black and out of the store. ABS properties provides better impact strength which means it is not as forgiving as compared to PVC (in other words it will crack/shatter at a point rather than bend under severe pressures compared to the PVC).

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Gluing and first coat of paint is done! Looking good so far I also have my "table" sections cut and painted as well, after second coat it will be final assembly.

Another question with the Simpson straps: can you tighten them after attaching them to the board? Or is the travel too much and you must tighten them first? Im thinking you can attach the wood and then do it but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask

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Note: so far the bedliner I used on my rig shows very little scarring after applying brackets this way. It has also provided a better gripping surface for the Simpsons Ties IMO, just FYI.

Did it scratch through to the white or just indent the black surface? Just wondering how it held up to the clamps vs my key test.

I like the make it fit option with this stuff its so much simpler then at work where I have to put it back in the mill, lathe, grinder ect. to "make it fit" :twisted: actually at work its "bring it in to print" but make it fit sounds funner :P

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Another question with the Simpson straps: can you tighten them after attaching them to the board? Or is the travel too much and you must tighten them first? Im thinking you can attach the wood and then do it but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask

I just tighten only enough to hold in place then mark my holes on board, screw and then tighten there after.

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Did it scratch through to the white or just indent the black surface? Just wondering how it held up to the clamps vs my key test.

Mostly indented with very little scratches. What I like about the liner was that I can add on or cover up with more without any indication that it was retouched.

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I built the frame and glued it today. Can you elaborate a little on your inverted pedal setup. I get the gist of what you did from photos but some measurements would be awesome!! You are the man I already like this setup better than my current diy build.. Thanks a lot!!

pvcrig.jpg

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Hey all,

I've been busy the last few days and I know I kinda dropped off the world but my rig is finished and installed!

It's beautiful and rock solid, and I have a story to tell....

First time out in F1 2011 with the new rig:

1st lap: warming up, testing the feel

2nd lap: New lap record

3rd lap: Wrecked

4th lap: New lap record

5th lap: Wrecked

So if anyone thinks that your driving rig doesn't affect your driving ability, think again.

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Glad to see many new people starting up a rig build. I know the extra input and ideas have helped me out. I had extreme difficulty sourcing the Simpson Strong-Ties. I had to have Home Depot custom order them for me.

Now that's done, I got scared after watching the DIY rig build video featuring the simul8r rig and the difficulties they had in seating the pipes properly using the PVC cement. The cost of PVC pipe is seemingly double here in the GTA in Canada so mistakes would mean another trip to the store, more hand sawing and more expense.

I did not have access to that mitre box and I did all my cuts by hand so the end of the pipes are not flat and are not consistent between pipes. I decided to return the cement and grab some of the plastic glue they had available. I glued in some of the pieces last night so hopefully when I get home from work tonight they will be set and I will be able to test out the rig with full braking force applied!

I didn't really ever plan to paint the rig although the bedliner looks so good and I recall a mythbusters episode where they coat one side of a car with bedliner and crash it vs the non-sprayed side and the difference was amazing. Even for the extra rigidity it would add I would like to paint with the bedliner now so that will be the next future project as I will have to disassemble most of the wheel components off the rig prior to the painting.

Thanks again to simul8r and everyone who posted pics and shared ideas and feedback.

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My rig 90% there. I still need to get a seat from a salvage yard but I currently am using a rocker gaming seat for now. I already have shaved .3 off my fastest times. I agree it makes a world of difference with the right feel of your rig.

Ill post pics soon.

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I built the frame and glued it today. Can you elaborate a little on your inverted pedal setup. I get the gist of what you did from photos but some measurements would be awesome!! You are the man I already like this setup better than my current diy build.. Thanks a lot!!

Welcome Sc0tty, unfortunately, I'm out of town right now so I can't provide at this time. I'll try to get back to you on this soon.

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Glad to see many new people starting up a rig build. I know the extra input and ideas have helped me out. I had extreme difficulty sourcing the Simpson Strong-Ties. I had to have Home Depot custom order them for me.

Excellent, I was wondering whatever happened on the status of your build.

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My rig 90% there. I still need to get a seat from a salvage yard but I currently am using a rocker gaming seat for now.

Would be interesting to see how you mounted the rocker to the pipes, please share.

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Hello all,

Simul8r, your plans are great! I'm going to use them and build my rig. Thanks a lot for putting all this together.

I have a question. What if i don't do this 37" bar on a right. Will the rig be as stable as with it and how big is the difference ? I see that 'foots7' user did this, so maybe the question is more to him.

Also i don't know if i want to make this monitor holder/table. Is it sturdy enough to hold 3 monitors (23" LED) which should not be too heavy?

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I have a question. What if i don't do this 37" bar on a right. Will the rig be as stable as with it and how big is the difference ? I see that 'foots7' user did this, so maybe the question is more to him.

Also i don't know if i want to make this monitor holder/table. Is it sturdy enough to hold 3 monitors (23" LED) which should not be too heavy?

fett, since there has been a change from the original Mk I the 37" pipe was primarily meant for not only attaching an adjustable shifter deck but it was big part of the rig's structural integrity. But now since I’ve included lower supports to both sides on the Mk II the 37” pipe can be removed altogether if shifter deck is not needed. However, that being said, I would say that having the 37” pipe does add rigidness between both front steering section and the seat in the case of mobility especially if moving the rig quite often. If you’re planning on not moving the rig as much and have no need for the shifter deck than you could still leave a ‘T’ connector on that side without the pipe just incase you might need it in the future.

As for the monitor/front table, I sat on it and I weigh about 220 lbs and I’m pretty sure it can take even more. You will have to be creative to widen the table though to allow for all 3 monitors. I suggest 3/4” plywood in this case. BTW, the front table section DOES provide for a very rigid steering deck.

Good luck, have fun with the build.

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Just a report on the glue so far. This stuff works great! What I grabbed, from Lowes this time, is called:

LePage "No More Nails" which comes in an oversized toothpaste tube for about 8$.

So I have been sanding down the inside of the connectors and the pipe ends with some unknown grit paper, then wiping that down with a cloth to remove the PVC dust. After that I take a rag with Isopropyl alcohol and wipe down the sanded areas to remove the rest of the gunk, finger oil, etc. I then apply the glue using an old art brush to the connector and the pipe. The glue is "grabby" right off the bat but not so much that you can't adjust. I was able to glue about 6 joints so 12 applications of glue then lower the rig back into position to level it out and make sure things were lining up. I was able to adjust a T junction with 2 glued pipes coming into it. Some effort was required but at least it moved at all.

The one thing I did notice is that the glue seems to be acting as a lubricant and allowing me to seat pieces of pipe to the maximum depth the connector will allow. This is good but during the mock-up stage, I was not able to seat them this far so I am hoping this doesn't end up causing problems.

I have more gluing in store for me tonight and then I will post some more pics this time.

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The one thing I did notice is that the glue seems to be acting as a lubricant and allowing me to seat pieces of pipe to the maximum depth the connector will allow. This is good but during the mock-up stage, I was not able to seat them this far so I am hoping this doesn't end up causing problems.

You should be fine as long as you had followed the measurements. That's the reason why I used a mallet or a wooden hammer during the initial design and mocking up. The hammer allowed me to make sure the end of the pipes were flushed up to the limit of the fittings. Plus, it helped out a great deal in disassembling since mocking up made things pretty tight to be removed by hand prior to glueing (quite a workout :lol:).

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