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F1 2012 CSR Setting help

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I'm using a gt2 wheel and here are my settings.

In-game settings:

Environmental feedback: 90%

Force feedback:60%

Wheel weight:0%

On wheel settings:

Sens:310

Ff:100

Sho:100

Dri:5

Abs:70

Spr:-3

Everything else at 0

I'm happy with these settings for now. Who knows if future patches will change the way the ffb feels. Good luck.

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I'm using a GT2 as well. Most of the settings will affect performance some, but sensitivity is the most important. On my wheel, it's set to 280.

If you're experienced at F1, then you know just about everything below, but if not, maybe it will help. Overall, stick with it, keep pushing, make adjustments, get frustrated, recover, come back, and "hit it even harder."

Take an hour or two to dial in your wheel until it feels pretty good. Then run Time Attack laps at Melbourne, make adjustments, and keep running laps until you're nailing every exit and shaving time off your laps (I also LOVE the new Austin track, and there's an "Austin Power" achievement for beating a specific lap time). Eventually you want to run laps at Suzuka and keep taking turns two through seven as fast and efficiently as possible. Running laps is not as fun as jumping in and dominating a race, but this "work" will reap rewards as you begin quick races, the three levels of Season Challenge, and eventually full-on career mode.

You may know this, but remember that F1 cars are very different "beasts" altogether. Until you learn to regulate the throttle AND brake carefully throughout a turn, it will be very frustrating. You're often applying the brake some while you're applying the throttle. I actually like to think the throttle and gears are what slows an F1 car down while the brake is used to keep it on or tweak the entry line. With experience, you can actually use both to "steer" the car through a turn more efficiently. Essentially, you rarely want to lift off the throttle completely, especially through a turn, even a hairpin. It can cause the back wheels to break loose and at the least you'll lose speed and struggle to "recover" the exit, or worse, bring the back around.

F1 cars are designed to run at extremes, and they often loose performance if you're too "easy" on them and let things, like tires and brakes, cool down too much. Even the hydro-electric clutches are designed to handle up to 500 degrees.

The best F1 drivers seem to concentrate on the exit. Brake point, regulated throttle and brake, entry speed and line, where you hit the apex all adds up to how well you hit the exit. Many F1 drivers take turn entries a little wider, and depending on the turn, are full on the throttle often before the apex. If they do everything right, they go to the very outside edge of the exit line, and don't reduce throttle (remember, don't lift completely) until the next "brake" point.

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Im having the same trouble on PC.

 

i seem to have chronic understeer and have to be on full lock for minor corners. im at 180 degrees rotation. I dont understand how you guys can have 300 ish degrees rotation as a real F1 car has 180 degrees

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Steering wheel rotation on real F1 cars are a little more than 180 degrees FROM CENTER TO LEFT -OR- RIGHT lock under normal conditions.

 

So for the FULL rotation (or sensitivity), 2 x 180 is 360 degrees. 270 to 280 is a realistic sensitivity setting for your wheel, and I've been using that setting for hours of F1 racing on both a GT2 and CSR Elite.

 

I can't imagine setting the sensitivity to 180 degrees.

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