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ISR DIY Rig #2 SIMUL8Rs PVC

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Presenting our second DIY sim racing rig build. This time Jessica Lopez hosts the show and assists Shaun "The Builder" Cole as he uses PVC to build a full size sim racing rig for under $200.

For this show Shaun purchased $130 worth of materials and is using the same seat we used for the Deathmobile (DIY Wood Rig). Some say that PVC isn't rigid or strong enough to build a sim rig out of. We're going to put that myth to rest.

Part 2 will be out very soon with the fully painted PVC Sim Racing rig by SIMUL8R and review with Jessica and Shaun Cole. We'll also have some great bloopers to include with that show.

Thanks to SIMUL8R for sharing and to check out his plans, you can go here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9eOHHUhMWo

We decided to divide this show into two parts, the build and the review. Here is the review portion of that show including some bloopers at the end.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F62klO14Fe0

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I used spray on bedliner on my simul8r rig, it gave me a nice textured finish and hasnt shown any wear yet.

Do I need to send you guys a deadblow hammer? ;)

The good thing about pvc is you can muscle it into place if you are a hair off so that first little glitch you had was no big deal. also Jessica how the glue comes off, well it doesnt maybe some paint thinner but then you will need your nails done again, sorry :(

The shorter peddal plate you guys cut first is for his inverted peddal design and you wanted the mk1 standard peddal plate which is longer, but you figured that out the hard way :x , its still fun though. cant wait to see the review. I know I love my mkI and am thinking of building the mkII. I hope you guys had as much fun building yours as I did mine.

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I like that little plastic beast! and No center post made it a 1,000x better!, with a few small upgrades once the build is complete, such as adjustable pedal control, a little tilt steering base plate and last but not least a beer can holder lol! For the monies spent very good job guys!

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The PVC glue is no joke as you all seen Shaun started the process. It’s only a matter of seconds to set two pieces together before the adhesion becomes permanent. And there's no turning back which is the worst part.

So far so good guys ;) , I would strongly suggest just a couple of things. First, if you find the rake of the pedal plate to much of an angle then you could remount the front of the MDF wooden board underneath the front PVC pipe rather than on top of it. Second, I strongly suggest you use these Simpson Strong Ties shown below for the wheel deck and the shifter plate instead of those weak conduit straps. You will find that they will just slip around the pipe easily even by the weight of the wheel alone placed on the deck. The Simpson Strong Ties (brackets) are used primarily for outdoor metal fencing and have this center screw that you can tighten its grip around the pipes tighter allowing it to hold the angle you want for the wheel/shifter. If, however, you prefer not to use the brackets you could cut a section off the center of the top pipe and glue another 'T' section and then screw the wood deck on top of that (much like the MK 1 design). Another option is adding a front table by attaching it (screwed) to the front support caps shown in the design and extend a section of the table for permanent flat deck for the wheel.

post-2141-135485912893_thumb.jpg

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Very entertaining vid :mrgreen:

Yeah it looks the wheel plate will be prone to slide around the tubing. One easy solution could be just to drill a wood screw through the wheel plate and the PVC pipe. It should hold the angle but you just need to test it properly before to get the angle right :)

Looking forward to the review.

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Another thing to remember when gluing PVC is when you glue and fit a piece together is hold it it place 5 to 10 seconds after fitting. PVC is bad to push back apart and leave a gap in fitting connections. Although beating it with a stick like Shaun was doing helps. :roll: Could have been some of the early problems with fitting the base.

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The red hot PVC glue primarily was the cause for the base being offset from the start. One side of the PVC 'T' fittings was not flushed to the end of the pipe before the glue cured instantly. This caused the next piece to off set from there on. Just when he got a section seated properly and tried to fit the two sections together that's when the difference in distances came out as it did. Had Shaun used the slow curing epoxy instead of the PVC glue would have allowed him to reseat the fittings properly using a mallet and set things straight prior to proceeding onto the next piece. However, the problem with the epoxy is that it takes a longer time to cure making the build a bit more impatient. You could drill and screw a single 1/2 inch self-tapping screw into the fitting and pipe whereby holding them together after they have been glued. This way you wouldn't have to worry about loosing the angle of the pieces or the reseat when man-handling the sections during the build.

Oh and BTW, cleaning the areas with a cleaning solvent like acetone is required in the glueing process. Removing grease or dirt that may affect the complete adhesion between the two parts. It was also suggested to lightly sand the pieces as well to give it more of a textured surface for the glue to hold. But in the case of the PVC glue thats not even quite neccessary since it chemically melts the pieces together almost immediately.

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Good job guys. I really enjoyed the build video. Looking forward to the review. By the way, why is it Shaun is doing all the dirty work on these 2 builds (after Jessica got banned)? Is he the only one with a garage and the tools... and the overalls :)

I had a thought while watching. While I've never done anything like this build, I was thinking if when you did your initial put together to make sure everything fits the way you want before gluing, using a straight edge and a Sharpie, you can mark the pieces which might help in lining them up when gluing together so everything lines up together on both sides. I'm not sure if this has been suggested by SIMUL8R or anyone else.

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Great DIY video, nice to see the evolution of the project and a few of the real world issues that can come up.

BK_NC made a suggestion that is very good, do your dry mock up and index your fittings with a sharpie, also number your fittings and corrisponding pieces of pipe helps make the assembly fast.good thing because the glue is too!

Glueing PVC is a trick for sure, but there are two types of glue, the two part primer cleaner/adhiesive, and the single part self priming glue.

The two part system is VERY strong and will hand high PSI situations. You will have one bottle of primer/cleaner and one bottle of glue. Use the primer and cleaner first, brush onto the pipe end AND the inside of the fitting, this is important as the primer etches the pvc to create a good bond, then apply the glue to the pipe end AND the inside of the fitting, this is a little messy but this give you those precious few more seconds to get your fitting together all the way and positioned properly. once glued you need to hold the fitting and pipe together for about 10 seconds, otherwise the fitting will push off the pipe about 1/2 an inch, and well..thats all it takes to muck things up. This stuff is REAL messy, the primer is very toxic so do it in a well ventilated area and the primer gets everywhere and stains the pipe too. That covers two part glue.

The other method is the single part glue like Shaun used in the video. For what we are doing this is probably the prefered glue. This glue is self priming, so no real prep is needed other than wiping off the PVC filings and dirt. When glueing the joint, you must glue the pipe end AND the inside of the fitting, if you don't glue the inside of the fitting the glue will likely set before the pipe makes it all the way into the end of the fitting. Again the extra glue is buying you time to get the fitting in the right position, and again you must hold it in position for a few seconds for the glue to set.

OK, so my plumbing background is showing...Now the epoxy idea was cool. Beating the pipe with a stick was funny too, are you a drummer Shaun? :D

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Did something bad happen to the rig during painting or attaching the shifter mount or seat?

No part 2 video for a few days ;)

Not at all.. Part 2 is coming today or tomorrow at the latest. I had jury duty that just finished that I didn't plan.

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Not at all.. Part 2 is coming today or tomorrow at the latest. I had jury duty that just finished that I didn't plan.

That and he probably need time to hammer on it to show its rock solid, I know mine is. 8-) I am hoping for a 10 for this one, although prices in cali must be higher then here because I had less than $100 in each one I built. Thats what they get for warmer winters a higher cost of living or should I say higher cost of sim rig building :P

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I don't know what was more enjoyable. Watching you all sitting in something I designed or the blooper with Shaun trying to maintain composure while trying to show the little can of glue. Yeah, I'm going to have to say Shaun, he made me tear in laughter as well. :lol:

Just want to thank ISR for giving the SIMUL8R PVC a shot in their series of DIY projects. I'm still working to improve the design using standard materials you could easily find at your local hardware store and I will try to offer any advise I can on my thread to those interested in building their next rig out of PVC.

Regards,

sim

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Hey guys and Jessica,

Great video. I built my PVC Rig about one month ago and would like to send you some pics. I would recommend that you install 3/4 wood screws at the various stress points because the glue will eventually lose its adhesive. I did both with glue and screws. Also, over glue I would use liquid nails for plastic. You have about fifteen minutes before it starts to dry.

Keep up the great work. Will send pics.

Ike

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Great episode #2 !

What are the plans for the rig>?

DIY Overalls are a must have! :lol:

Plans are to give it to you ! I see you're in Canyon Country and you wanted the rig.. Want to come get it ? Without the seat of course. You would need to get one and mount it to the rig. We'll even throw in the 80/20 we used to mount the seat.

Email me if you want it ! :-)

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Nice offer to the community. Hope he takes you up on it. I have a version of the first rig Simul8r put out there. It has served me well, up until having a small failure (broke the glue joint at two fittings due to HEAVY brake foot), but this is after a few years, probably 10 hours a week average, with a very heavy pneumatic brake setup and a triple monitor stand attached to the rig (not in the original plans).

A quick repair and I'm back on the road again. I can highly recommend the rig, hope you take them up on it and enjoy it!!!!!

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Hey Guys,

Great episode, including the outtakes. I have a Question regarding the Peddle Deck. Did you Hard Mount the Peddle Deck? and If so, How did you Hard mount it? I have a the Thrustmaster T500RS and my Peddle Deck is made out of MDF Board. If you have any suggestions as to how to Hard Mount the Peddles, it would be Greatly appreciated.

Thank,

Don " Carlton " Simpson

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Hey Guys,

Great episode, including the outtakes. I have a Question regarding the Peddle Deck. Did you Hard Mount the Peddle Deck? and If so, How did you Hard mount it? I have a the Thrustmaster T500RS and my Peddle Deck is made out of MDF Board. If you have any suggestions as to how to Hard Mount the Peddles, it would be Greatly appreciated.

Thank,

Don " Carlton " Simpson

Sorry for the delayed response Don.. We drilled the deck and then hard mounted the pedals. If you look under the pedals, there's 6 mount holes (2 on each pedal). You can use M6 hardware or the same bolt that you can attach you wheel with.

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