DIY FFB Wheel Arduino Leonardo.
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DIY PWM+DIR DC Motor driver with DPDT Relay & MOSFET IRLB3034.

Schematics: PWM-pin11, DIR - pin10

Schematic-DPDT-Relay-MOSFET-H-bridge-PWM

Ai-Wave 2016, some desktop effects on slight set ups. ) 

 

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Find out the config with aiwave 2016 to work. The "constant force" slider, should not be zeroed. And that's it.
The relay driver works!:);):cool:

test run)

 

 

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The relay module is assembled in such a way.
 
P1110168.jpg P1110174.jpg P1110173.jpg
 
Test.
Screen-Shot01823.jpg
 
P1110182.jpg P1110168.jpg P1110169.jpg P1110170.jpg P1110171.jpg P1110172.jpg P1110173.jpg P1110174.jpg P1110175.jpg P1110176.jpg P1110177.jpg P1110178.jpg P1110179.jpg P1110180.jpg P1110181.jpg
 
 
Determination of the freewheeling diodes locations and connection. Just with ordinary 1N4007.
 
P1110189.jpg P1110190.jpg P1110191.jpg
 
 
And schematics for them.
 
Schematic-DPDT-Relay-MOSFET-H-bridge-PWM

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Advanced pwm+dir driver version is assembled. Got to test with MY1025.
 
P1110283.jpg
 
Schematic.jpg
 
P1110205.jpg P1110204.jpg P1110203.jpg P1110202.jpg P1110201.jpg P1110200.jpg P1110283.jpg P1110282.jpg P1110281.jpg P1110280.jpg P1110279.jpg P1110278.jpg P1110277.jpg P1110276.jpg P1110275.jpg P1110274.jpg P1110273.jpg P1110259.jpg P1110253.jpg P1110252.jpg P1110251.jpg P1110210.jpg P1110209.jpg P1110208.jpg
 
Capacitors.
 
Screen-Shot01885.jpg
 
Capacitors ripple current.
220uf50v x24 + 2200uf50v x2 + 3300uf63v x2
19A
 
220uf50v x24 + 2200uf50v x4
16,5A
 
Total
35,5A
 
 
Flyback diodes 30u60DN ~ 60A
 
Mosfets.
 
IRLB3034 x3pc.  Total allowed power should comprise  ~ 90 / 120A.

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Made some adjustments with min force for the wheel for the step test 2. To eliminate the zero responce zone. 
For the game have got some other set ups on it. 
Screen-Shot10483.jpg Screen-Shot10482.jpg Screen-Shot10481.jpg Screen-Shot10479.jpg
 
And new link to encoder. 
P1110326.jpg

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Noname wheel from oklick. 240mm  0.4 kg weight. )
 
Step test.
300/600
 
Screen-Shot10508.jpg Screen-Shot10510.jpg
 
P1110335.jpg P1110333.jpg
 
 
Some current limiting tests with bulb 60/55w H4 12v. 
And linearity test with it. May be someone can find it useful) The FFB is less with it, but no motor overheat etc. 
 
Screen-Shot10488.jpg

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I follow this interesting project... Can I ask you why you choose chain instead of belt? As Motorbiker I know that to operate proper need to have some loose, if you tight too much it will become too hard and will kill the FFB effects, but in the same if it is too loose it will have some gap I think....There is a reason nobody to produce chain FFb wheel:) But will be happy to hear what you think and have in mind?;)

Cheers!

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I can give a number of builds with bike chains and sprockets, and can, may be even bet, that the only main reason, if the builders switched to the belts drive, is a chain noze, compared to belts ofcourse. On the other issues it is quite a good actually, as it appeared to be later on)

But generally, it's the most quick and dirty simple way to get everything work and be tested) Many aspects underwent under this scope. But ofcourse I too prone swithing to the belts, if build another base, with cars steering rack, i posted here before.    

Yea i made a bit loose to the chain, by adjusting the nuts on the motor mount. So that's not an issue. It do can have the right tension by that. 

Thank you Krassi for following this build) 

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Checked the torque test and a wheel under 12V12.5A Power supply appeared to be of having - 3.67 Nm of force. I made units conversion of the obtained data measured not with 1 meter lever of force, but with 7.5cm force lever. That has 5 kg at that applied point of measurement, fastened just right on that gear sprocket)    

Edited by Sieben

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Switched to 4khz PWM, and the driver works perfect. The 4n35 optocouplers, are not good for the 16khz pwm frequencies.  Any other optos can be chosen ets for the frequency that is out of the hearing range. But, 4khz is good too in that aspect. It's quite,  a quite one)))
 
The force linearity test);)
 
12v12.5A
 
Screen-Shot10524.jpg
 
 
Screen-Shot10519.jpg Screen-Shot10520.jpg Screen-Shot10516.jpg Screen-Shot10517.jpg
 
 
Edited by Sieben

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With 12v33a - 5.5 Nm of force.
 
 
Screen-Shot10525.jpg Screen-Shot10526.jpg
 
Step test is not set on full power with constant force. With just a bit of it. And it has a direct input on the results over here)   

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Checked the torque amount the wheel produce. I recalculated it before according to the lever it was measured, right on the sprocket, and that was 7 nm. Then checked with 1m lever and all the same results) A bit more then 0.7kg gives - 7Nm of force) 
 
 
And changed the wires in relay. Now it is a high amp one) 
 
P1110369.jpg P1110370.jpg P1110371.jpg P1110372.jpg P1110373.jpg

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By having directly cut out the relay from the driver, and having an idea of replacing it with a first bridge circuit there, instead of the relay, a quite reasonable question arose, why not actually give a chance to one BTS7960, together with the idle diodes and capacitors in a team. )
 
Driver with relay.
P1110385.jpg P1110386.jpg P1110381.jpg
 
As a short summary, experience in using relays. To be honest, I don’t know what kind of assessment to give, because replacing the BTS and unscrewing the FFB 100% Gain, Constant and a feature in the form of Scale up to x2.5 times Constant in EMC09, I got almost the same steering wheel vibration in the center, as with the relay, but at much lower FFB values when there was a relay. For BTS, I left everything in a hundred and reduced Scale x1.5 Constant. If x2.5, the BTS chips get heat up more, so it is set in more “cautious” modes so far (Scale x1.5 Constant.)Again, can repeat that with the "relay driver" it pumped much more strongly at much lower values of force. The switching moment, by changing the direction of rotation, is also not noticeable, with a relay, as it may seem. The same thing in the center. But in short, if it were not for the "oscillations" in the center, as a result of a forced decrease in the strength of ffb, to eliminate it, an absolutely adequate and powerful playable driver would be obtained. If this is of course it's problem at all, i.e. see paragraph above. One can of course connect it to the bridge circuit, from the beginning of the experiments, and see what happens. ) Maybe even the first version of the diy driver will go, but with the correct binding for diodes, and condencers. It may even be possible to score on the need for deadtime s for the bridge. 
 
BTS7960. As it was announced earlier,https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/diy-force-feedback-steering-wheel-using-dc-motor-based-on-mmos.13019/#post-174094
the chip numbers in this bts are sort of from the correct series. (617)
P1110387.jpg P1110390.jpg P1110388.jpg P1110389.jpg
 
The linearity of the base with a wheel of 1.4 kg
Screen-Shot10607.jpg
 
This curve, it seems even due to the fact that it is not MMOS that is used, but EMC. Arduino, and not an STM32. Presumably. Since, in the comparative test, one run was enough, and you get an even linearity curve, in MMOS, with EMC apparently has its own small issues, in this regard. But let me remind you that it was even too, when experimenting with the diy driver of the first version and with EMC09)
Screen-Shot10610.jpg Screen-Shot10609.jpg Screen-Shot10611.jpg
 
BTS7960
 
 
Some sort of countersteering etc
 
 
And with relay.)
 
Edited by Sieben

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 The power arrangement with caps and flyback for bts7960 used. The caps nominals and quantity is for example. Should be picked in accordance of the total amount of the ripple curent specs. 2143665913_CAPFLYBACKBTS.thumb.jpg.259bdf9a8d394832b63523dce002b18d.jpg

Edited by Sieben

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Hi there!)
 
Some connections clear up with the power section to the schematic above) I can say that, the freewheeling diodes are an option, with BTS7960 usage. But also can be used for good with it. And, it is quite an obligatory to use this schematics, with complete diy controllers for powerfull motors.
 
 
 
 
Edited by Sieben

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