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Thustmaster T3PA Pro (T500) Spring Mod

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Here's a spring mod to substantially increase the pedal arm resistance in your T3PA Pro or T500 pedal set. You retain the stock coil springs, but add three torsion springs, Midwest Fastener #88213, to each pedal, that wrap around the pedal arm pivot shafts. While still keeping the stock coil spring, the addition of the three (or nine total) torsion springs increases the resistance to a similar feel of other, more expensive pedal units (such as the Fanatec units). Also, the four springs working together, sharing the load, yet not "binding" on each other, offers more resistance than swapping out the "single" stock coil springs with "stiffer" coil springs. ...and those stiffer "after market" springs WILL BREAK within a year.

T3PA "Standard" Pedals: A very similar mod is available for the $99 "plastic" T3PA units. A few additional pieces are required to protect the plastic pedal arms. You can view this mod in this thread: Thrustmaster T3PA ("plastic" model) Spring Mod

There are also some additional things in the "plastic" T3PA mod that could be applied to this mod (such as the sleeves around the pivot pins, and the machine screw and Nylock nut).

IMPORTANT: You may have an issue with some or all of the bottom arms of the added torsion springs "popping" out of place. To alleviate this, you could mount or J-B Weld some type of small retainer in front of them to ensure they don't snap loose. Maybe even a few layers of electrical tape might be enough to keep these from popping out. If you hear a click when you're operating the pedals, then it's likely one of these arms has popped out, resulting in reduced resistance.

ONE OTHER OPTION to ensure the springs stay in place, is to drill holes on each side of the metal pedal carriage, and install a bolt and Nylock Nut. See the thread about modding the "cheaper" T3PA pedals (link above) for information and photos to drill the carriages, and install the nuts and bolts. This will however, require you to remove the metal carriages from the two cross-shafts, which are locked in place by c-spring clamps.

Removing the pedal unit covers: See the video link and notes below. Also, read the IMPORTANT paragraph about the possibility of breaking off screw heads.

If you have a load-cell brake mod, it may not be necessary to make this mod to the brake pedal (though it helped ensure that my pedal, with the Ricmotech mod, fully returns to the upper stop bracket).

WARRANTY: This will likely void your warranty as you usually have to remove a sticker to get to some of the screws to remove the lower cover panel.

DISCLAIMER: Make these modifications at your own risk, and understand you cannot hold me liable if you have any problems or cause damage to your pedal unit.


Here's a video from, that shows how to disassemble the T3PA Pro Pedals. It's very useful information about removing the covers and getting into the "guts" of the pedal assemblies. However, disregard his suggestions about replacing springs, or adding an additional smaller coil spring inside the stock coil springs. From my own experience from the last couple of years, I know that replacing the stock springs can actually cause problems, and "after market" stiffer or longer coil springs fail within a year. Having two springs occupying the same space is usually not a good idea as it causes them to bind and wear against each other.

The addition of these torsion springs is a much better and more reliable solution (as long as the lower spring arms stay in place), and the four springs working together offers substantially more resistance than a single, "stiffer" coil spring, and if installed correctly, will operate for years without failing.

IMPORTANT: Before loosening any of the screws for either of the covers or the bracket that limits the upper travel of the pedal arms, check underneath the unit to determine if any of the screws are threaded through a nut or wingnut. If you attempt to loosen one of those screws without loosening the nut, you will likely BREAK THE SCREW HEAD OFF.


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