OSW Wheel & Fanatec Rim Integration: How to Guide
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40 posts in this topic

Edit #2: I've added a part 2 to this guide, which explains how to integrate non-Fanatec rims.  See Part 2 here.

Edit: I've found that a shorter 30mm spacer will also work in the application, see added pics, below.

______________________________

I thought some here might appreciate a how-to guide to integrate your OSW wheel with Fanatec Rims, allowing plug-and-play with no rim modifications, and keeping all button box, display, and vibration functionality with your Fanatec Rims.

The principle here is simple: use a Fanatec/USB conversion board and route all signals through the in-hub quick release.  I'm going to mention specific parts sources, below, but you could substitute if you're comfortable.  Our end goal is this:

IMG_0289_zpss2qnwhto.jpg

There are 5 key parts needed for this conversion.  3 are easy to obtain, the other 2 can be tricky.

We're adding: a 5cm hollow hub extension (to internally house the conversion board and provide room for wiring), a Fanatec Quick release, a Fanatec wiring harness, a coiled USB cable, and the USB conversion board itself.  

The 5cm hub extension is easy.  The bolt-circle for both the OSW wheel attachment and the Fanatec Quick release is 70mm.  I ordered a very nice machined/anodized aluminum unit off Amazon, seen in the photos here. Here's the link to the Amazon extension.  

For the USB conversion board, I used the Leo Bodnar board.  It's available here. There are other options for this board if you're comfortable with Arduino programming, a Google search will reveal other options.  The Bodnar board is plug-n-play, and (importantly), can be easily modifed (shortened) for the use here.  Likewise the coiled USB cable is readily available.  I ordered this one

The Fanatec Quick Release came with my OSW wheel package from Tomo Meglic at Simracinbay.com.  I don't believe these are available separately.  I highly advise ordering this magnificent, stainless-steel machined connector at the time your order your OSW Wheel.  I can highly recommend Tomo, and his OSW packages are a great way to get into an OSW wheel.

The final bit is the wiring harness from Fanatec.  This is available as a spare part from Fanatec.  I opened a chat session with a customer service rep, and said I needed a replacement.  As I had a Fanatec CSW v2 wheelbase registered on my account from a prior purchase, they authorized a sale of this part to me.  It cost $5.  The Fanatec "Product Code" for this part is "SP-CSW MC new CSW main cable".  You could also remove one from a Clubsport base if you prefer.  I wish we had a better source for this critical part, so good luck in obtaining this harness.

Now, onto the installation.  First, I installed the Fanatec Harness into Tomo's quick release hub:

IMG_0269_zps4pratt0y.jpg

I used spare 3mm nuts/bolts I had.  Be sure to align it correctly, the "gap" in the pins goes to the 6 o'clock position (opposite the machined channel) on the quick release.  Also, please use a thread-lock on your bolts and nuts.  I used Locktite 271 Red (high strength).  This part will be constantly pounded by the FFB and if you don't lock these nuts, they will come loose.  I didn't have room for lock-nuts, it was a tight fit and I had to use small-outer-diameter standard 3mm nuts.

With the harness installed, I mounted the steering wheel adapter and 5cm steering wheel spacer onto the OSW motor shaft.  Be sure to work the 4 attachment bolts until all are very snug and none move anymore.  It takes quite a bit of time to tighten this down, but you'll eventually reach a point where all 4 bolts no longer are loose.  

Another important point: please index your OSW wheel prior to attaching the final quick release.  This allows auto-calibration of the wheel on startup.  To index your wheel, hookup your OSW wheel and open the MMOS software *without* anything attached to the motor shaft.  Rotate the motor shaft and hit the "center wheel" button in MMOS.  Note the "offset" setting.  Keep rotating the shaft, hitting the button, and noting the offset setting.  Once you have the offset setting somewhere between -400 and +400, you've found the center point.  Make a mark on the motor shaft at the 12 o'clock position, and align your installation so this mark is at the top when you finally attach the quick release.

Now, for the conversion board.  You need to make a couple of modifications.  To start, you can shorten the board.  I cut the board on my band saw about 3-4mm away from the USB attachment plug.  This allows the board to easily fit into the 5cm steering wheel extension.  Here's a picture of the board after cutting on the band saw:

IMG_0291_zps0qsvwvln.jpg

The second modification is the plug from the harness.  The harness attachment is a 12-pin plug, while the Bodnar board has an 8-pin connector.  You need to remove the sides of the connector on the Bodnar board, as well as the tabs from the 12-pin connector on the harness.  I used a hobby knife for this.  The proper attachment is to flip the 12-pin connector upside down (the former tabs on the plug will face the bottom of the board), and attach this from pin 2 to pin 9 into the Bodnar board.  Here's a picture.  I used a red marker to indicate how this fits for future use.

IMG_0282%202_zps1kq4yxkq.jpg

Also, I prepared the coiled USB cable at this time.  I cut off the mini-plug, and you'll find the 4 standard USB wires (Red, White, Green, Black) inside the shielded sleeve.  I preserved a good length of the shield sleeve wire, as I attached this to one of the mounting bolts on the wheel adapter to reduce EMI.  I also drilled a hole in the 5cm steering wheel extension, as you can see, to pass the coiled USB cable through.  I fitted a rubber grommet over the cable before inserting the USB cord into the spacer.

IMG_0283_zpskeudnulg.jpg

At this point, you're almost done! I attached the shield cable from the USB wire to one of the attachment bolts:

IMG_0285_zps0pxojbpy.jpg

And the last thing is to padden and insulate the Bodnar board inside the spacer.  I wrapped it all up in a generous amount of electrical tape, before bolting it all together. Here you go:

IMG_0286_zpsltj05hrx.jpg

And then bolted it all together.  Be sure to get the alignment right on the quick release.  You want the slot facing directly up at the 12 o'clock position.

IMG_0288_zpspssf1ibu.jpg

And there you go!  You use the Fanaleds software to control the button box, display, and vibration functions.  Works like a charm!  You've got full plug-n-play with your Fanatec wheels, and can swap rims between your OSW box and your Fanatec bases with ease.  Hope this helps, let me know if you need anymore assistance in the comments.

Edit: it turns out, the 30mm spacer also just (barely) fits in this application.  If you want a shorter length steering column, this is the way to go.  I upated my rig, and in my application (R-Seat N-1), it aligns my shifter and handbrake mounts very nicely.

IMG_0312%202_zpsz51qudpd.jpg

IMG_0313%202_zpsk5wcb39p.jpg

IMG_0289_zpss2qnwhto.jpg

(still waiting on my HPP pedals to complete my rig)

IMG_0290_zpsrp3yyhhs.jpg

IMG_0418%203_zpso1m1nmqi.jpg

Edited by Diablo2112

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Hey Bro can you please put the link of Fanatec new CSW main cable i cannot find it in fanatec offical site Guys please if anyone know where i can find this fanatec cable please send me the link Thank You

58537aaa1d9ac_2(640x480).jpg.a574cb4ed0dae562cc0a3bb7b8344e37.jpg

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3 hours ago, koushik said:

Hey Bro can you please put the link of Fanatec new CSW main cable i cannot find it in fanatec offical site Guys please if anyone know where i can find this fanatec cable please send me the link Thank You

 

Email fanatec support/customer service, it is not a shop item. Not sure if you have to invent a reason, I think I may have added mine was damaged (they used to rub and get destroyed in older version) they seem to be happily selling them w/o interrogating you what it is for though, or so I heard

Edited by frapster

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Hi, great how-to, thanks a lot!

Do you know if the Bodnar board will also work with the universal wheel hub (non xbox version) ?

I see that others have used a similar approach but used a Teensy board instead which is confirmed to work with the universal wheel hub but if the Bodnar board also works than it can save me some soldering/wiring challenges ;-).

Thanks!

Jeroen

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I have the Fanatec CSL rim which is the XBOX cheapo wheel.  I tried plugging it into my Bodnar setup, and it didn't work.  That's not to say the universal Xbox hub won't work, as I'm told there's some differences between the hub and the CSL.   Make of this what you will.  

Edit: just reread your question. Yes, the Bodnar board works great with the nonXBox universal hub.

BTW, I've been purchasing used Fanatec wheel-side quick releases for cheap.  Great for attaching alternate rims to my OSW, though they lack thru-hub button box functionally.  Just the last few weeks, they've been getting harder to find.  As OSW/Fanatec conversions become more popular, these quick releases will become a hot item.  Might want to procure a few while they can still be found.  

Edited by Diablo2112

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Than I will probably go for the Bodnar board route and save some fiddling with the wiring of a Teensy - although at the expense of some more cash out.... ;-). Also good tip regarding the Fanatec wheel side quick release parts.

Thanks for your help Diablo!

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Some quick additions/edits.  I've found that the 30mm spacer (barely) fits.  If you want a shorter steering column, this is the way to go.  I've also edited the first post to reflect this.  Here's some pics of my updated rig, with the short, 30mm spacer.

 

IMG_0312%202_zpsz51qudpd.jpg

IMG_0313%202_zpsk5wcb39p.jpg

 

 

Edited by Diablo2112

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Thank you so much for that detailed guide.  The only part of it that I'm still unclear about is the harness connection to the Bodner board.  It's hard to see from the one shot how you made sure to connect it properly (since they don't align).  Also, if I don't have access to a band saw, how else might I be able to safely cut the Bodner board?

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Regarding connection of the harness to the Bodner board.  After you remove the tabs on the (male) plug (from the harness) and the sides of the recepticle (on the Bodnar board), the correct connection is from pin 2 to pin 9 on the harness into the 8-pin bodnar recepticle.  Flip the harness plug upside down (the removed alignment pins will now be on the bottom, facing the Bodnar board), and just plug it straight in, starting at pin 2 on the harness.  The part of the harness plug with 3 unused pins (10-12) will face the direction shown in the photos, to the left if looking at the top of the board with the plug oriented downward.   See photos.  The important part is to get pins 2-9 attached from the harness.

The Bodnar board itself can be shortened with a standard hacksaw, just be careful if you place it in a vice to not crush anything important.  Go slow, it will cut easily.

I'm not a Fanaleds expert, by any stretch.  I can't really help with Fanaleds advanced setup, as I just run stock settings and display SLI rpm and gear, nothing more.  

Edited by Diablo2112

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Great mod, many thanks for sharing. I just completed mine yesterday and it's working really nicely. The biggest hassle I found was procuring the nuts and bolts to hold the harness in place inside Tomo's adapter. In the end I used M4 x 22mm (as opposed to M3) to try and reduce any potential play, the ones with allen key heads. The supplied locknuts were just too wide, so I ended up shaving a bit off the side of each one - just enough to squeeze them in the gap. This was also beneficial as they were tight against the metal rim of the adapter and didn't rotate which made tightening them easier.

All in all I found it pretty fiddly, but that's probably more to do with my lack of DIY skills :) Must say I admire your patience and tenacity for going back in again and replacing the 5cm spacer with a 3cm version. Anyway thanks again for sharing the idea and providing the guide!

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No, that's not normal at all.  Both the simracingbay and extension hub I used had a 70mm bolt circle and fit perfectly.  You may want to measure the diameter of this circle; I'm guessing your extension doesn't match.  Note: the extension actually has 2 bolt circles: 70mm and 74mm.  If you look closely at my pictures, above, you'll see these 2 bolt circles each slightly offset from the other. If you rotate it 1/12 of the way around, you can access the other bolt circle.  Can you post pictures of these parts?  It will help us figure out what's going on.

Edited by Diablo2112

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First, a BIG THANK YOU for doing the hard work figuring this mod out.  I was able to do it quite easily once I realized there are two sets of holes!!  (I'm usually very good a building things, I don't know why this hub got me frustrated!).  Now that its built, is there a way to test it without having a gaming computer?  I have an old XP box that I'm using to set up the Simucube OSW wheel but my real PC won't be ready for another week.  Can I just install fanaleds and check buttons and paddles?

Here's some pics of the final hub install.  I had to pull it and the shaft mount so many times, I'm an expert now!!!

IMG_3147.JPG

IMG_3148.JPG

IMG_3149.JPG

IMG_3150.JPG

IMG_3151.JPG

IMG_3153.JPG

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Wow!  That's just beautiful!  Congratulations on a wonderful job.  Windows (since Windows 7 but NOT XP) uses a different means to connect controllers.  The Bodnar board relies on this, so I'm guessing an XP machine will not recognize the wheel as a controller, but it won't hurt to try.  Just don't panic if it doesn't show up.

I'm just about finished with part II of this guide.  I'll show how to integrate non-Fanatec rims with a USB button box and/or shifter paddles thru the same quick release, including full electrical connection.  Just plug n play.  Coming in another day or two.

Edited by Diablo2112

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On 4/2/2017 at 0:53 PM, Diablo2112 said:

Edit: I've found that a shorter 30mm spacer will also work in the application, see added pics, below.

______________________________

I thought some here might appreciate a how-to guide to integrate your OSW wheel with Fanatec Rims, allowing plug-and-play with no rim modifications, and keeping all button box, display, and vibration functionality with your Fanatec Rims.

The principle here is simple: use a Fanatec/USB conversion board and route all signals through the in-hub quick release.  I'm going to mention specific parts sources, below, but you could substitute if you're comfortable.  Our end goal is this:

IMG_0289_zpss2qnwhto.jpg

There are 5 key parts needed for this conversion.  3 are easy to obtain, the other 2 can be tricky.

We're adding: a 5cm hollow hub extension (to internally house the conversion board and provide room for wiring), a Fanatec Quick release, a Fanatec wiring harness, a coiled USB cable, and the USB conversion board itself.  

The 5cm hub extension is easy.  The bolt-circle for both the OSW wheel attachment and the Fanatec Quick release is 70mm.  I ordered a very nice machined/anodized aluminum unit off Amazon, seen in the photos here. Here's the link to the Amazon extension.  

For the USB conversion board, I used the Leo Bodnar board.  It's available here. There are other options for this board if you're comfortable with Arduino programming, a Google search will reveal other options.  The Bodnar board is plug-n-play, and (importantly), can be easily modifed (shortened) for the use here.  Likewise the coiled USB cable is readily available.  I ordered this one

The Fanatec Quick Release came with my OSW wheel package from Tomo Meglic at Simracinbay.com.  I don't believe these are available separately.  I highly advise ordering this magnificent, stainless-steel machined connector at the time your order your OSW Wheel.  I can highly recommend Tomo, and his OSW packages are a great way to get into an OSW wheel.

The final bit is the wiring harness from Fanatec.  This is available as a spare part from Fanatec.  I opened a chat session with a customer service rep, and said I needed a replacement.  As I had a Fanatec CSW v2 wheelbase registered on my account from a prior purchase, they authorized a sale of this part to me.  It cost $5.  The Fanatec "Product Code" for this part is "SP-CSW MC new CSW main cable".  You could also remove one from a Clubsport base if you prefer.  I wish we had a better source for this critical part, so good luck in obtaining this harness.

Now, onto the installation.  First, I installed the Fanatec Harness into Tomo's quick release hub:

IMG_0269_zps4pratt0y.jpg

I used spare 3mm nuts/bolts I had.  Be sure to align it correctly, the "gap" in the pins goes to the 6 o'clock position (opposite the machined channel) on the quick release.  Also, please use a thread-lock on your bolts and nuts.  I used Locktite 271 Red (high strength).  This part will be constantly pounded by the FFB and if you don't lock these nuts, they will come loose.  I didn't have room for lock-nuts, it was a tight fit and I had to use small-outer-diameter standard 3mm nuts.

With the harness installed, I mounted the steering wheel adapter and 5cm steering wheel spacer onto the OSW motor shaft.  Be sure to work the 4 attachment bolts until all are very snug and none move anymore.  It takes quite a bit of time to tighten this down, but you'll eventually reach a point where all 4 bolts no longer are loose.  

Another important point: please index your OSW wheel prior to attaching the final quick release.  This allows auto-calibration of the wheel on startup.  To index your wheel, hookup your OSW wheel and open the MMOS software *without* anything attached to the motor shaft.  Rotate the motor shaft and hit the "center wheel" button in MMOS.  Note the "offset" setting.  Keep rotating the shaft, hitting the button, and noting the offset setting.  Once you have the offset setting somewhere between -400 and +400, you've found the center point.  Make a mark on the motor shaft at the 12 o'clock position, and align your installation so this mark is at the top when you finally attach the quick release.

Now, for the conversion board.  You need to make a couple of modifications.  To start, you can shorten the board.  I cut the board on my band saw about 3-4mm away from the USB attachment plug.  This allows the board to easily fit into the 5cm steering wheel extension.  Here's a picture of the board after cutting on the band saw:

IMG_0291_zps0qsvwvln.jpg

The second modification is the plug from the harness.  The harness attachment is a 12-pin plug, while the Bodnar board has an 8-pin connector.  You need to remove the sides of the connector on the Bodnar board, as well as the tabs from the 12-pin connector on the harness.  I used a hobby knife for this.  The proper attachment is to flip the 12-pin connector upside down (the former tabs on the plug will face the bottom of the board), and attach this from pin 2 to pin 9 into the Bodnar board.  Here's a picture.  I used a red marker to indicate how this fits for future use.

IMG_0282%202_zps1kq4yxkq.jpg

Also, I prepared the coiled USB cable at this time.  I cut off the mini-plug, and you'll find the 4 standard USB wires (Red, White, Green, Black) inside the shielded sleeve.  I preserved a good length of the shield sleeve wire, as I attached this to one of the mounting bolts on the wheel adapter to reduce EMI.  I also drilled a hole in the 5cm steering wheel extension, as you can see, to pass the coiled USB cable through.  I fitted a rubber grommet over the cable before inserting the USB cord into the spacer.

IMG_0283_zpskeudnulg.jpg

At this point, you're almost done! I attached the shield cable from the USB wire to one of the attachment bolts:

IMG_0285_zps0pxojbpy.jpg

And the last thing is to padden and insulate the Bodnar board inside the spacer.  I wrapped it all up in a generous amount of electrical tape, before bolting it all together. Here you go:

IMG_0286_zpsltj05hrx.jpg

And then bolted it all together.  Be sure to get the alignment right on the quick release.  You want the slot facing directly up at the 12 o'clock position.

IMG_0288_zpspssf1ibu.jpg

And there you go!  You use the Fanaleds software to control the button box, display, and vibration functions.  Works like a charm!  You've got full plug-n-play with your Fanatec wheels, and can swap rims between your OSW box and your Fanatec bases with ease.  Hope this helps, let me know if you need anymore assistance in the comments.

Edit: it turns out, the 30mm spacer also just (barely) fits in this application.  If you want a shorter length steering column, this is the way to go.  I upated my rig, and in my application (R-Seat N-1), it aligns my shifter and handbrake mounts very nicely.

IMG_0312%202_zpsz51qudpd.jpg

IMG_0313%202_zpsk5wcb39p.jpg

IMG_0289_zpss2qnwhto.jpg

(still waiting on my HPP pedals to complete my rig)

IMG_0290_zpsrp3yyhhs.jpg

IMG_0418%203_zpso1m1nmqi.jpg

Hey man, thank you for making this guide for my Fanatec rims + OSW Plug and Play mod, just please remember to give credit for the plug and play concept :). I have been intending to write up a guide myself since many people have asked me since I first put up my Clubsport rims OSW plug and play mod video but I just haven't had the time. I will be making an update video though with some more information and showing the newer style adapter installed. 

It is also cool to see that you used the Leo Bodnar conversion board as opposed to the Teensy LC. I do have a question though, does the Leo Bodnar board allow the left thumbstick on Fanatec rims to work? With the Teensy this works as an analogue axis which is nice to have, I use it to look around in some games.

I am glad to see the mod getting so much attention! I had a feeling people would like it. Great job on the write-up as well, very informative and detailed

In case anyone is interested, here is the original video I made and a link to the original ISRTV write-up I posted for the Teensy based Clubsport rims Plug and Play mod. Teensy board is cheaper at about $20 USD and allows the USB to just plug in, however you will need to solder the wires going to the Fanatec plug and load the Teensy with firmware. 

Edit: Just to clarify, the reason the plug is held in with hot glue instead of screws in my original video is because this was the way I temporarily held it in place with the old simracingbay qr adapter. The old adapter was hallow and did not allow for screws to be fitted to mount the plug, therefore I needed to be creative. The new one (the one used in this tutorial) has the machined platform and screw holes to allow the plug to perfectly fit inside the adapter and be retained with screws. Tomo (simracingbay owner) made the new adapter in response to my first video, I made an update video comparing the two different QR adapters shortly after the first vid.

I just wanted to clarify this in case someone didn't see my thread and was wondering why I would be using glue in the video. 

 

 

Edited by Seth Francis

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11 minutes ago, koushik said:

hey bro you're gaming rig is beauty but can you please tell me where can i get anatec Harness

You need to contact Fanatec for this part, it is called a CSW main cable. You can contact Fanatec support through their website.  

Also, make sure to tell them you need the base side, with the female holes. A picture helps. 

Edited by Seth Francis

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Hello All,

Awesome mod!

I'm working on it now with the Teensy LC.
I have it wired up and it works fine with my F1 wheel but my universal hub is not recognizing any buttons.

My Universal Hub is PC/PS

Anyone have any ideas?

Edited by jasonmce

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The github diagram shows the wiring as if you were wiring directly to the PCB inside the rim. Since we are wiring from outside the rim at the round plug the wiring will be the same regardless of the rim/hub (as long as all wires are connected). This is because the wiring harnesses inside the rims/hubs compensate for the difference at the PCB making the wiring at the plug the same across all rims and hubs (minus P1 of course). Otherwise the CSW base wouldn't work with all rims and hubs.

I don't have a diagram of the female round plug and the attached long white plug (the one that usually goes into the CSW base PCB) on hand but I can get you one. Feel free to shoot me a PM. The included pic shows the proper pin numbers for the round male plug, you can use this to determine the pinout on the female plug (just picture where the pins would mate on the female side). Then fallow that with a multimeter to the wires themselves or the plug on the end of the round female plug harness. The numbers shown match the in rim PCB diagrams found on the github so they can be used to determine wiring to the teensy. Like I said though I can get you proper diagrams if you like so you don't have to mess around. 

5925ddc553e69_687474703a2f2f692e696d6775722e636f6d2f794c5347304a736d2e6a7067(1).jpg.f80cccaee983bd77e78ebf15130e7988.jpg

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