Ultra clean T3PA load cell mod wired in pedal case
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19 posts in this topic

Hi guys,

I really dig mo86's version of the load cell mod as displayed here: 

… aaand I want to adapt it. And while I'm at it, i'd like to ditch the extra connector box, put the load cell amp directly into the T3PA case and connect it to the original brake wires to achive a clean overall appearance.

The question is: Will it fit? I guess there should be enough room for that amp, but before taking my pedals apart I'd like to be sure about that.
Unfortunately I was not able to find an image of an open T3PA case resp. google images is full of pro models.

Can any of you guys help me out?

Edited by ao1977
Title change to actual content

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So, yesterday I had some time to convert my load cell setup similar to mo86's, plus the load cell amp inside the pedal case.

As you can see, there's plenty of room inside:
 IMG_20170325_171217785.thumb.jpg.a0f2d088d8a0655d04f72920e2dd3d83.jpg
Note: The connection shown in the image won't work. Turns out Thrustmaster loves brainfucks and wires red to ground and black to +3.3v. You may imagine my heart missing some beats when I did the first test.

EDIT: The polarity issue applies only if you're using the pedals via the TM USB adapter, which inverts the axes. Attached directly to the wheelbase, the polarity should be right and red connects to +3.3V.

Here's the outside view. As I got rid of the extra connector box, it's very clean and tidy now. I still have to get used to the larger rubber bumper though, which is quite a bit softer than the shorter version I used before. Not bad by any means, just different.
IMG_20170325_183148817.thumb.jpg.fa95f12625baf64600828de65cbe84ab.jpg

Edited by ao1977
Polarity issues

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Nice work so1977!

In your position I couldn't feel comfortable with the deadzone.

I'm using a longer conical buffer (25x30mm) plus a 4mm spacer to minimize the deadzone, but I had to drill a m6 thread into the loadcell.

MO86

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So far I am totally comfortable with the deadzone. I thought about washers, too, but then again I got used to the deadzone by now. It also feels kinda natural in comparison with my street car. 
Also, the previous bodin-style solution had that deadzone too after the din rail met the center post of the Wheelstand Pro I used at that time.

the.weakest_link.thumb.jpg.a5033ee7b8a4ea84db0f30098c97d9f2.jpg

I'm thinking of fixing a pipe clamp around the rubber buffer to stiffen it a bit though. But as I lack of professional Equipment besides a Dremel and a saw there won't be any action containing rethreading and stuff.

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You get used to everything. ;-)

The din rail isn't a stable solution. I didn't like it when the rail was bent and deadzone was becoming more and more after some time. Had made tests with a more stable din rail, but cutting the original brake mod was the best and cheapest solution.

If you want a feeling like the original conical brake mod I would recommend you to use a conical buffer. A screw tap set isn't that expensive if you want to try it. You only need to cut one thread to m6 and still can use the other thread for the original m4 buffer, to go back...

MO86

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Update: I had two issues with the solution above. Firstly, the bracket holding the load cell broke in its elbow. I soon found out the reason why: If you take a close look at the image above, you can see the back of the bracket is not sitting flush with the pedal housing. Seems like I mounted it tilted and the forces applied during braking maneuvers went to high.

Luckily the bracket could be welded and after some days without a LC brake (I actually tried to switch back to the stock TX pedals and immediately decided to pause racing instead) I put it back together.

bracket.jpg.6716e2df060e58b6f719bef5206e3a58.jpg

In came the second issue: With the bracket now mounted correctly, I again had a rather big deadzone, followed by the very stiff door stop rubber. Not that bad though, but still far away from ideal.

But after I accidentally (yeah, really) bought a rubber cone with a m6 screw, I decided to try and rethread the load cell, which turned out to be much easier than I thought using a cordless screwdriver.

So now the status is almost perfect with as few deadzone as possible.

FinalState.jpeg.e1600f3e6ef73076a73d4ad17e58e107.jpeg

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On 2017/3/26 at 6:27 PM, ao1977 said:


So, yesterday I had some time to convert my load cell setup similar to mo86's, plus the load cell amp inside the pedal case.

As you can see, there's plenty of room inside:
 IMG_20170325_171217785.thumb.jpg.a0f2d088d8a0655d04f72920e2dd3d83.jpg
Note: The connection shown in the image won't work. Turns out Thrustmaster loves brainfucks and wires red to ground and black to +3.3v. You may imagine my heart missing some beats when I did the first test.

Here's the outside view. As I got rid of the extra connector box, it's very clean and tidy now. I still have to get used to the larger rubber bumper though, which is quite a bit softer than the shorter version I used before. Not bad by any means, just different.
IMG_20170325_183148817.thumb.jpg.fa95f12625baf64600828de65cbe84ab.jpg

Hey ao1977,

 

Do you mind sharing which amplifier you are using here? I am doing this project recently, no idea which amplifier i should use

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On 2018/1/29 at 11:28 PM, ao1977 said:

Hi ao1977,

Thanks for the information, i just got my LC amp. it couldn't work, i am nit sure my connection is correct, could you show me how to do it? Does it work on PS4 or only PC, mine is ps4.

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Zoom in the picture I posted above and you'll see the connections I made, that's all I have. Make sure you connected the right wires of the LC to the amp.

Regarding the output oddity (black connected to +3.3v) – thinking about it again: I don't connect the TP3A to the wheelbase, but to an USB interface. This inverts the axes; maybe that's the reason why I had to connect +3.3V with black against all common sense. ;-) 

So if you connect it directly to the wheelbase instead of the dedicated USB interface, there's a chance that the polarity is right again and red connects to 3.3V.

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