SimuCUBE OSW+ Fanatec Clubsport Rims Plug & Play
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Hey guys, I thought I would share this project here. I am not sure that I can give an exact guide as I found this on the iracing forum but I will post the link to the iracing thread and if anyone has any questions feel free to contact me and I will lead you to all of the necessary information. I take no credit for the Teensy USB conversion portion of this project as it is all another persons work. I simply came up with my own way of utilizing this adapter by mounting outside of the rim. 

Ok, my goal was to convert my current Fanatec rim as well as any future fanatec rim I may use to USB. The caveat was I only wanted to purchase one USB adapter and I did not want disassembly or modification of the rims to be required. I also wanted to complete this project for less than $20 (not including rim). While most of this project will be difficult for others to complete due to certain parts being difficult to obtain the actual USB conversion aspect may be interesting in itself. 

The adapter I used is the teensyLC ($17 on ebay) wired and loaded with firmware according to this thread at iracing:http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3343242.page 

There is also a github guide here about the teensy based USB conversion: https://github.com/darknao/btClubSportWheel

I started with my SimuCUBE direct drive system. I purchased this kit from Tomo at Sim Racing Bay therefore I am lucky enough to have the Fanatec base side QR adapter he makes. This is one of the components which is required and also difficult to obtain unless you happen to have purchased your DD setup from Sim Racing Bay. The next item I had on hand was a spare Fanatec base side wiring harness. Of course I also had the CSW rim I was converting. 

So, in order to use one adapter with multiple rims the adapter itself needed to be outside of the rim and be able to connect to the rim using the standard wiring harness/plug that is inside the rim from the factory. This is where the base side harness comes in. Instead of wiring my adapter to the rim PCB directly or to a JST 2.0 8 pin connector and plugging it into the rims PCB I decided to solder my adapter to the spare base side harness I had lying around. I could then fit this harness inside the Fanatec base side QR which came with my DD system. Fortunately Tomo machined these adapters to precise tolerances and there is also a lip machined inside the hub at the perfect point for the plug to rest. This allows the harness fit snugly inside the custom Fanatec QR and also allows the plug to rest against the lip at the perfect depth. When the rim is installed the plugs mate perfectly, and connection is made. This solved the problem of being able to attach various Fanatec rims quickly and easily with only one USB adapter. 

Next was the concern of housing the USB adapter. What I decided to do was utilize a steering wheel spacer. I was planning on moving my motor back anyways so I already had this on order. This piece is not in the photos as it has not yet arrived but I will update the project pictures once it is completed. You will be able to see in the pics how the adapter will be housed inside the spacer. Basically the spacer will mount to the custom Fanatec QR and allow enough space for the USB adapter to fit inside comfortably. The other side of the spacer will mount to the split bushing on the motor axle. Between the motor split bushing and the steering wheel spacer there will be 6 5mm bolt spacers. These will create a gap between the motor and steering wheel spacer so the USB cable can fit through. I will fasten the USB cable to the spacer in some fashion to prevent and tension on the micro USB connection during use. Of course I will be using a typical coiled USB cable. 

And that all there is to it, I will have a hub mounted on the axle of my motor that will allow me to mount any stock Non Modified CSW rim or hub (excluding the Xbox hub) directly to my direct drive wheel and maintain button and LED functionality. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. 

Here are the pics I have so far, as you can see the adapter is covered in heat shrink tubing for protection. The red heat shrink is only covering the unused wires for safety. I will add more pics once the spacer arrives and I can move further with the project. 

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This is the spacer I will use to house the adapter. 

wheel spacer.jpg

 

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Edited by Seth Francis
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So, basically, if I got it right, by doing so you will be able to convert any 'standalone' Fanatec wheel (I mean, those which require NO Fanatec Hubs) to your Accuforce/OSW/DD wheel platform. Very intriguing. :-)

 

There's only one thing I didn't get : by meaning USB connection, you are referring to the internal connection between your Direct drive base AND Fanatec wheel - you don't mean this Fanatec wheel will subsequently need to be connected to a USB port, isn't it ? (that would be unhandy). Did I get it right? 

Thanks for your patience. ;-)

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For now there will have to be a coiled USB, it will be attached to the hub/axle/steering wheel spacer area instead of to the actual rim though and it will remain connected all the time. I will have a small 5mm gap between the spacer and motor for the cable to pass through. I could drill a hole in the spacer and use a grommet of some sort to pass the cable into the spacer (where the USB adapter is housed) but I will most likely just pass it through a 5mm gap. The cable will be plugged in all the time and will not be tocubed when swapping rims, rim swapping will be exactly as it is with a fanatec base. Right now I am using a small MiGe motor and there is no way to pass a USB through this motor so coiled USB is my only option as of now. 

However, in the github it shows how to make this a Bluetooth adapter instead of USB.  This way you don't have to worry about any cable at all except for charging a Lipo battery occassionally. This will require two additional boards but every thing will still fit inside the wheel spacer I am using. That would make this truly wireless. I would much rather have an untrustworthy Lipo battery inside a metal spacer than inside my expensive rim, that was another thought during this project. 

As of now though I will be able to buy any standalone Fanatec rim (except Xbox rims) to my base without any modification or hassle and have full connectivity for buttons, fanaleds, funky stick, and left stuck mouse control. All of this works with this conversion which is nice. Plus only one adapter is required instead of one per rim. 

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Ok, I finally have an update on this project. I have fitted the Teensy LC inside the spacer and everything is mounted to the motor shaft. The plug is fitted inside the Fanatec base side quick release adapter. It is temporarily held in place with hot glue until I can find a perminant solution. Everything seems to be working as expected, I can hot swap between my Porsche rim and universal hub with no issues. If I had a formula and BMW rim those would work as well. Fanaleds works perfectly with vibration function for compatible rims. I have created a YouTube video to show the project in its current state. I still have some more refinements I would like to do such as installing a secure external plug to connect/disconnect the USB at the motor shaft and covering the nuts on the back side of the spacer. 

As it stands now though the project is up and working. I understand this project will be difficult for most others to complete since the plug harness and quick release adapter are not easily available. Perhaps in the future this will change. For anyone else who purchased their DD system from simracingbay.com and already has the Fanatec QR adapter you can complete this project rather easily. Fanatec will sell the plug and harness as a spare part if you ask them, it is called a CSW Main Harness. 

For now I look forward to seeing what the community thinks about my approach to Fanatec rim USB conversion and the idea of fitting the electronics inside the shaft. 

For anyone interested in going direct drive I can highly recommend Sim Racing Bay, especially if you would like the Fanatec quick release adapter. 

 

Edited by Seth Francis

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The PCV holds up pretty well but I really built the crap out of this rig to make it strong. Basically there as two uprights and a deck that connects to both, this gives some added rigidity. There are also 4 cross members on the front half that half with left right movement. I do get some flex, especially if I pull the wheel towards me or hang my weight of the steering wheel. The joint between the wheel section and seat section will flex causing front half to lift a bit. I dont have that section glued because I wouldnt be able to move it out of the room if the front and back halves were glued, it is only held with screws which isnt enough. My plan is to bolt the entire rig to a deck/floor which will make it completely rigid front to back. There is a very small mount of left right flex, less than I've seen in some steel rigs and it isnt am issue even with a dd wheel. There is also a small amount of flex in the wheel deck but that is the MDF flexing. I will be replacing the wheel deck with 8020 which will eliminate this. The thing I like most about this rig is the fact that it was cheap and I could easily build and modify it to my liking. Now that I know exactly where I like everything to be mounted it would be easier to build a full 8020 rig should I want to. I also like the way vibration travels through the plastic from the buttkicker. It is a bit ugly though, I planned on painting it black but once it was all together I didmt want to tear everything down and take it back out of the apartment. I will do that if I ever move or when I put the floor in. 

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Very interesting! 

Firstly: it's surprising Fanatec it's actually selling its connector and harness ("CSW main harness") as spare parts freely - I always thought that by selling the CSW Hubs their idea was to impede in any way any efforts in the direction of modding. It's such a relief knowing there was no means to block one's chance of customization. :-)

Secondly: your project it's really innovative and can really ease the problems for those customers (like me :-P) that are switching from the CSW V2 system to the DD bases (well I'd love to ASAP ;-)) : as of now, the only (minor) problems seems to be the 'hot glue fixing' of the connector (I'm sure you will be getting it right easily ;-)) and the wheel rotation, which force the cord to 'hug' (literally) the shaft... (more wheel resistance on high degree of rotations due to the cord friction? A problem while racing hard? Just a guess).

I will also check this simracingbay you spoke of.

Good luck with your projects... And 'keep at it'! :-D

 

P.S.: I'm checking the site now, it would be lovely if one could connect the Fanatec pedals and shifter directly to the SimuCUBE "CPU" to get the highest resolution possible allowed by the hw/sw. But that would require 'opensource' sim gears I fear (I fear Fanatec drivers doesn't allow such practice).

Edited by Francesco

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Thank you indeed for the thread Seth

I bought myself the CSW shaft adapter, since i have 3 hubs and 1 Formula, but it was before this adapter was available, so all of them here are already converted to be used with my current mige QR system
However, as I say I bought the shaft adapter anyway now and if I were to de-convert my hubs/f-rim at some point later, I would want to make it similar to yours, using the harness

I've been a fool to send a spare harness back to fanatec a year ago, when I had a replacement sent to me, which i ended up not using. Will have to blag my buddies at Fanatec for another one now, this time costing me some money :)

Edited by frapster

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5 hours ago, Francesco said:

Very interesting! 

Firstly: it's surprising Fanatec it's actually selling its connector and harness ("CSW main harness") as spare parts freely - I always thought that by selling the CSW Hubs their idea was to impede in any way any efforts in the direction of modding. It's such a relief knowing there was no means to block one's chance of customization. :-)

Secondly: your project it's really innovative and can really ease the problems for those customers (like me :-P) that are switching from the CSW V2 system to the DD bases (well I'd love to ASAP ;-)) : as of now, the only (minor) problems seems to be the 'hot glue fixing' of the connector (I'm sure you will be getting it right easily ;-)) and the wheel rotation, which force the cord to 'hug' (literally) the shaft... (more wheel resistance on high degree of rotations due to the cord friction? A problem while racing hard? Just a guess).

I will also check this simracingbay you spoke of.

Good luck with your projects... And 'keep at it'! :-D

 

P.S.: I'm checking the site now, it would be lovely if one could connect the Fanatec pedals and shifter directly to the SimuCUBE "CPU" to get the highest resolution possible allowed by the hw/sw. But that would require 'opensource' sim gears I fear (I fear Fanatec drivers doesn't allow such practice).

I think Fanatec sells them so that people who own the V1/V2 base can replace theirs if it breaks. Sometimes the wires would get cut by a sharp edge in the V1 Base. Having said that they seem to be pretty open about selling them. I actually think Fanatec is becoming open to helping the modding community now that direct drive is so popular and so many people are using their rims. I would love to see Fanatec offer their own version of what I have made. Who knows what the future brings, one thing that is disappointing is the fact that they no longer sell the non-Xbox hub, they are becoming harder and harder to find used. I have one of each and if I could trade my xbox hub for a non Xbox hub I would lol. 

As for the hot glue, it's only purpose is preventing the plug from pulling out when I remove a rim. There is a metal lip machined inside the adapter that holds the plug at the perfect depth preventing it from moving inwards when a rim is fitted. I would like to fashion some sort of plate that is very thin but would fit flat against the rear surface of the QR adapter and allow the plug to be held in place with screws just as it would be in a fanatec base. It would be easy to use something that goes flat all the way across with a hole for the wires but I would prefer the mounting point to be recessed inside the hole (and around the backside of the plug) and sit against the plugs mounting holes. That way the backside of the adapter would be flat wkth no visible, regular length screws could be used and it would look much more professional. That is a small detail though, for the purpose of reliability I can figure out a number of reversible ways to perminantly fix the plug. 

I thought the cord would be an issue to, but as long as it is positioned properly it isn't. I have it placed so that it wraps around the thinnest part of the shaft. I can do two full turns in each direction without any tension or pulling on the cable. That is 1440 degrees of rotation, more than would ever be used for most people. Within that 1440* there is no added resistance to rotation, at least not a noticable amount. I could allow for more free rotation by adding slack to the coiled cable. The idea is to have the cable set up so that it can freely wrap arund the shaft without begining to stretch the individual coils at all. The cable I use is very thick and heavy, even easier rotation could he had by using a thinner lighter duty coiled cable. I have no issue with mine though, I never run more than 1080* and that range is handled easily. There is a Bluetooth version available for this conversion but it is aperently troublesome. 

You cannot connect Fanatec pedals directly to the SimuCUBE using the original Fanatec plug. However you can wire any pedals, shifters and button boxes to the SimuCUBE. There are inputs for these devices built in but they need to be wired. There are convenient plugs on the board so you could wire devices using that style plug and be good to go. 

Definitely do check out Sim Racing Bay when you are ready. The owner Tomo really knows his stuff and he provides excellent customer service. The prices are quite competitive when comparing to other options as well. Plus hes the only place to get the Fanatec QR adapter:)

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1 hour ago, frapster said:

Thank you indeed for the thread Seth

I bought myself the CSW shaft adapter, since i have 3 hubs and 1 Formula, but it was before this adapter was available, so all of them here are already converted to be used with my current mige QR system
However, as I say I bought the shaft adapter anyway now and if I were to de-convert my hubs/f-rim at some point later, I would want to make it similar to yours, using the harness

I've been a fool to send a spare harness back to fanatec a year ago, when I had a replacement sent to me, which i ended up not using. Will have to blag my buddies at Fanatec for another one now, this time costing me some money :)

What do you mean by Fanatec shaft adapter? Sorry I'm just notnsure which piece you are talking about lol. 

That's too bad, I always save stuff to have on hand kust in case. I never get rid of anything so I tend to have too much carp lying around lol. Let me know what they quote You on the plug. I have a couple but I really don't want to sell them. I want to hold on to them in case I can get my hands on more quick release adapters. 

Please let me know the cost of one harness though, I am curious what the price is. 

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6 minutes ago, Seth Francis said:

What do you mean by Fanatec shaft adapter? Sorry I'm just notnsure which piece you are talking about lol. 

That's too bad, I always save stuff to have on hand kust in case. I never get rid of anything so I tend to have too much carp lying around lol. Let me know what they quote You on the plug. I have a couple but I really don't want to sell them. I want to hold on to them in case I can get my hands on more quick release adapters. 

Please let me know the cost of one harness though, I am curious what the price is. 

I mean this one sold by Tomo. it is mounted direct to a mige shaft, which is what I assumed you had too, even if it wasn't from Tomo
fanaddopt.jpg

Yeah, I would never send anything back on my own accord, but I managed to strip a bolt when trying to replace it on my then CSW2 wheel, so I had to send both the base and the harness back, on their request

Edited by frapster

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He sells it as part of his kit now. It wasn't available when i bought mine, hence why I went on with an alternative QR system for all of my stuff. He was kind enough to sell me one separately last month when I asked though

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Ok yea that's what I thought. I got my kit with the adapter a few months ago and I check regularly to see if he started selling them separately lol. I imagine the manufacturing costs are high and it is not worth it to sell them separately. I'm pretty sure it is made lf stainless steel so that must cost a pretty penny to manufacture. I have to say though I'm willing to bet people would pay a good amount to have one if they have a DD wheel and Fanatec rims. If you think about it one QR1 (I think that's what it's called) is close to $200 for a base and rim side together. Then another $100 or so after shipping each additional rim. One could mount all of their Fanatec rims/hubs with one of these adapters. You could even put another quick release behind the Fanatec quick release adapter for easy switching to custom rims if you really wanted to, it's still cheaper than converting the quick release on multiple Fanatec rims as well as any custom rims. 

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On 18/1/2017 at 6:34 PM, Seth Francis said:

 One could mount all of their Fanatec rims/hubs with one of these adapters. You could even put another quick release behind the Fanatec quick release adapter for easy switching to custom rims if you really wanted to, it's still cheaper than converting the quick release on multiple Fanatec rims as well as any custom rims. 

And that would be lovely! :-D

 

The only problem would be having the led functionality, both for the CSW wheels (Porsche, BMW, Formula) and the 'hubbed rims'... I don't think the mere Fanaled software would suffice to let it work. I'm pretty sure the lights would work only when connected to a CSW base (to tell the truth, I'm a bit of a hurry know, I may be wrong as well)...

 

Edited by Francesco

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LEDs work fine with Fanaleds, using tinsy-lc, which is what Seth is using and what I am using right now

Mind you, I've disabled mine (for some specific to me needs), using a modified firmware I asked at git-hub for, as I don't need any of the LEDs now, with VR being the only thing I use in sims, but it still works for those who want it

EDIT: fanaleds LEDs work by Tinsy-LC method of firmware fooling windows into thinking it's a Fanatec wheel, hence why it works

Edited by frapster

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Hi 

i need help it doesnt work

I have everything done under guidance, but in Windows is displayed.
And in the game I can not occupy any keys.
My fear is that the main cable has a different pin assignment

Maybe the pin turns from the rim to the base . but u get it work .

 

 

 

Kabel belegung.jpg

Teensy am Stecker.jpg

Teensy gamecontroller.jpg

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Sorry for the delay. Looks like you've got it working though. 

 

I will work up an image with labeling for the base side plug so that people can more easily see the pinot from that side. 

What I did was use a multi meter to match the continuity from the known pinout shown in the github (inside rim at PCB) to the pins on the round plug that sits inside the quick release. I then plugged in a base side harness round plug into the male round plug in the rims quick release. I cut off the white plug that goes to the base PCB so I wouldnt have known the pinot at the base side white plug until you posted it (thank you for that). Once I had a round base side plug harness plugged into a rim with cut wired I could test continuity from the pins I knew where correct at the rim PCB to the loose wires of the main harness (which was plugged in to the rim at the quick release). This told me which wires coming off of tge main harness round plug matches the pins I needed to access inside the rim at the PCB. I should have tested for continuity before I cut the white plug off the main harness but I hadn't thought of it. 

The wiring (as you know) is not the same as inside the rims/hub. The BMW, Porsche and Formula rims are wired differently from the hub when looking inside the rim or hub itself at the PCB. If you were converting the rims/hub internally you would have to wire the rims differently from the hub. What is nice is that once at the round qpluguick release plug the wiring is the same for all rims and the hub, that is why my project will work automatically with all the rims and the hub. 

I am glad you have it working though, can you tell me what the colored wires are in the picture? I would also like to see a picture of everything wired up if possible? I'm thinking I can use the labeled pictures you made in my original post that way people know for sure the wiring on the base side and don't have to figure it out in their own.

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That is awesome! I love that spacer, did you print that? If so shoot me PM as I am interested in one. I already have a theaded metal microphone style plug but I hadn't worked out how to mount it nicely yet. I like this recessed design. 

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yes, well done both of youse. really like different approach both of you have taken.

I went with Seth's idea and ordered almost the exact copy of his spacer, to host the Teensy in it, from China, so a few weeks away, as well as my "main CSW harness" request to kind dudes at Fanatec, several of whom I know well enough from business POV.
Pretty sure I wouldn't be bothered at all with how the USB cable plugs into the hub/enclosure, as I am most likely to just drill a small enough hole to feed the coiled cable through...

@Downforce - your last pic shows a wired teensy connected direct to a hub PCB. I assume this isn't relevant to any of this thread discussions, right? As otherwise it would make no sense, as the original Hub/RimPCB->FanaQR-><-FanaQRHarness<-Teensy would make most/direct sense

Edited by frapster

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