Thrustmaster T300RS overclocking
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I've got some good news :) T300 works happily on 30V!

 

30V.thumb.jpg.01d04347f92d9ceaa28ca1bdb1

The credit goes to Marcoma who made a great thread about replacing stock PSU from TX and T300:

I have tried 20V laptop PSU and although the wheel worked fine, it feel a bit weaker compared to stock 24V.

That made me think, how high will it go? :)

If anyone is trying to something similar, I'd suggest increasing the cooling a lot. All that extra hear needs to go somewhere and you don't want to see this happening to your wheel:

56e051cd42097_t300dead.thumb.png.229eb23

I've added extra heat sinks to most chips (my rule is, only cover chips you don't want to burn :)

This is what my logic board currently looks like:

heatsinks.thumb.jpg.90a99d51e1e53faaa34d

I've also added two 8 cm fans for extra airflow during the testing.

This is the max this bench PSU will do, but I'm already looking at power supplies with more volts :) 

 

Edited by Tino

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19 hours ago, Tino said:

I've got some good news :) T300 works happily on 30V!

 

30V.thumb.jpg.01d04347f92d9ceaa28ca1bdb1

The credit goes to Marcoma who made a great thread about replacing stock PSU from TX and T300:

I have tried 20V laptop PSU and although the wheel worked fine, it feel a bit weaker compared to stock 24V.

That made me think, how high will it go? :)

If anyone is trying to something similar, I'd suggest increasing the cooling a lot. All that extra hear needs to go somewhere and you don't want to see this happening to your wheel:

56e051cd42097_t300dead.thumb.png.229eb23

I've added extra heat sinks to most chips (my rule is, only cover chips you don't want to burn :)

This is what my logic board currently looks like:

heatsinks.thumb.jpg.90a99d51e1e53faaa34d

I've also added two 8 cm fans for extra airflow during the testing.

This is the max this bench PSU will do, but I'm already looking at power supplies with more volts :) 

 

Any difference at 30v. . . ? Could it be ok on 35v . . . . ?

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3 hours ago, ANDRITSOULAS said:

Any difference at 30v. . . ? Could it be ok on 35v . . . . ?

Yes, the wheel feels quicker and It seems to have more torque :) Not quite T500RS level (that thing has bone shaking FF, but definitely better than stock.)

More testing is needed but the plan is to go for 3A, 36V PSU. 

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FFB should be the same, I've tried with both T500 PSU and with stock TX PSU (I think it's rated for 25V) and I didn't notice much difference.

Edited by Tino

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52 minutes ago, mmmuffins said:

what would i need to over clock it?

Lots of details on this thread:

 

I used a different PSU (36V 3A ),and increased the cooling to motor controllers :

heatsinks.jpg

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Hey there, old thread I know. Just a short question, does your wheel still work with the 36v psu? At the moment im also using a 30v 3A bench psu and modded the case with 2 extra fans for better cooling, working great so far. Im also thinking of upgrading to a 36v psu. So basically 2 questions: Does it work for a longer period of time? (nearly daily use, some hours a day) and is it a noticeable difference between the 30v and 36v psu?

Greetings, 

aKy

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Hi Aky0001,

The wheel is still working fine, I use it about one to two hours per play session, it gets tiring after a while as I'm using about 90% FFB force.

Have you added heatsinks to motor controllers (that's one of most critical parts)?

If you can get cheap 36v psu, i'd say give it a go, I did't play long on 30v (I went quickly to 36v) so I don't remember how it compares to stock 25V or 36v psu unfortunately.

How does your 30v compares to stock PSU?

Gladzilla, T500 with 60W motor is much more powerful than T300/TX even modded to 36V.

I haven't tried TSPC, that would be an interesting test, looking at some numbers I think it might be close.

 

 

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Using it quite alot at 100% ffb in windows (linear mode in iRacing, ffb tuned per car so it doesn't clip). i have my fans mounted left and right at the wheelbase, where the right fan blows air into the base (directly onto the ffb motor) and the left one soaks the "warm" air out. No heatsinks on the motor controllers. no changes in ffb strength, even after hours of racing. but i have heatsinks here, would mount them when i switch to a 36v psu.

Cant remember how 30v compares to stock psu but i will test, i have a second stock t300 laying around. Just need to find some time to do it. Will report back.

 

Edit: Here are my testing results.

Its kinda weird. I think i will stick to 24 V, but with my bench psu because it is able to put out more Ampere. Stock PSU delivers 2A max, while my bench PSU can deliver 3 A. I did lots of driving tests and tests with the "Test Forces" in the Windows Driver Control Panel, and forces feel noticeably stronger at 24V. Also my PSU shows higher Ampere-Peaks at 24V, going up to 2.6A, some rare times even 2.8A, while at 30V it barely hits the 2A, mostly 1.7A.

The only advantage in putting more Volt into the wheel would be that it reacts slightly quicker, but not much really. Could be interesting for drifting maybe, where you need the wheel to spin fast a lot. For road and oval racing its not that important.

@Tino : would be interesting if you also could check with your bench PSU.

Edited by aKy0001
testing results

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The issue with more voltage is that it results in a lesser dynamic range of ffb strength. at 24V the ffb is more powerful, which means i can feel the small ffb effects better, and the strong effectcs actually feel strong. On 30V the wheel is able to rotate quicker, but the ffb felt a lot weaker, making it hard to feel especially the smaller effects.

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Could you try to check this with your bench-psu? It should show the values of Ampere consumed. Mine consumed a lot more Ampere on 24V. 

Edited by aKy0001

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Whel wheel was using max 2.08A with 30V bench psu:

30V.jpg

I got 36V 3A psu, from a Kodak printer. When I get some time I'll plug in the multimeter and check the amps.

(I didn't spend much time at 24V with bench psu, I when quickly up to 30V.)

bdw,  24V at 2.6A  should be very similar  wattage as 30V at 2.08A ~ 62W,

It might we worth putting small (GPU memory) heatsinks on motor drivers, in case they are overheating, also it might be worth playing with thrustmaster calibration utility.

 

Edited by Tino

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Sorry to drag up an old topic.  I configure a lot of brushless motors for use in drones and rc airplanes balancing input power and load (amps) to achieve a desired thrust (torque)/watts.  Same principle can be applied to the brushless motors in these wheels.

Watts = Volts x Amps.  So, as you increase volts, amps will decrease if your load remains constant or under no load conditions.  Adding a load to the wheel (steering) will generate higher loads (watts) and therefore more current.  Since volts can't increase, amps must increase to meet higher wattage loads, especially against brief bumps and skids.  This also creates heat, therefore the need for more cooling.  I suspect those FETs(?) are probably only rated to 2 to 2.5 sustained amps micro second burst to perhaps 3 or 4 amps.  Hold a constant load more for than they are rated, for more the a few seconds-- heat build up and poof! Those heatsinks with active cooling are the ticket! 

With that out of the way, are your wheels still going strong at 35+ volts?

Thanks for the update.

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