CSW1/2 HUBs & button plates mod
0

6 posts in this topic

Hello all

Thought I'd share my CSW modding details, in case there are others who own the kit and feel restricted by the provided button pods, that come with the hubs.
While existing pods are fine, if you tend to swap rims several times a day, using different button arrangements, even with multiple hubs, of which I have 3, the default set just isn't enough.

As soon as he hubs became available some time ago, I began looking to mod the system with quick connectors to button plates with my own button arrangements, that would avoid the need to open up the hubs every time I want to swap a rim on any of them.

First, it took me some time to find the right JST connectors for the HUB's PCB sockets. Took me a long time and a lot of experimenting with a few connectors that didn't work/fit.

Micro ZH 1.5 4-Pin JST Connectors
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230865243993

These fit just fine, but I would still recommend cutting off its side tongues/ridges (that slot into female socket side grooves) with a sharp knife, otherwise they will be a bit too tight, as it's not a 100% the same grove system on Fanatec's and these JSTs.

Now, you want to extend these, with the external connector sockets.
I chose these ones at first, for half a year or so
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330991782233
only to replace them later with these, as they look and work a lot better and easier to plug/unplug quickly
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-sets-Male-Female-4-Pin-Connector-with-wire-for-5050-3528-RGB-Led-Driver-Strip-/262154789544?hash=item3d09a4a2a8

They come with male and female wired ends, the latter being directly wired to the JST connectors in the first link (1.5mm pitch) and male halves wired to your buttons.

So as you can see it's pretty simple. You are just extending the internal HUBs sockets outside of the hub enclosure, so yuo can connect various multi-button plates as they are needed for the car you are driving at the time.

Here are a few, but not all of the button plates I use. Please note - the GT OMP wheel has also the knob implemented, but being unable to wire it well with a few connectors i wasted my money on (USB3 and similar) I gave up (for now) trying to extend its 10 pin connector, after an unsuccessful (partial success really, due to a sloppy wiring job) attempt to extend that too. It just sits there filling the hole I cut for it initially :)
 

Button_plates1.thumb.jpg.c57e0adcea07ed8

Button_plates2.thumb.jpg.77ada638fea5e72

Button_plates3.jpg.f4abe9edf84dbcd563152

Button_plates4.jpg.ce26422eb527dea8167e8

Button_plates5.jpg.dc27e9192ae945db9c70a

So there you go - a simple solution, if like myself you would like to use a bit more customised rims with your own button plates connected to the hub, instead of external 3rd party PCBs

Same principle applies to wiring buttons direct to the rim, for some of them it's the best way. I am using this on 3 rims that simply would look bad with a button plate
Buttons_classic.thumb.jpg.5d0db774576d5a

Of course there's also an issue with paddle shifters attached to the hub - you wouldn't want to have them on, if you are driving a gated manual shifter or sequential stick cars instead. You could of course, use a similar to the above system of mine - 2-pin JSTs for the paddle shifter connectors (1.5mm pitch ones, just like 4-pin ones) to extend them outside of a hub, but you'd also need to attach/detach the paddle switches. In my case, having 3 hubs really helps with this, as I have one with permanently mounted GT paddles, 1 with small paddles for small/formula types of rims and one without any.

With this system, you can have multiple rims setup to suit different cars. After a year and a bit with this, having accumulated 3 hubs and 15 rims, I cannot believe I used to race an old lotus or a cobra with a BMW GT2 rim - that is in my eyes a blasphemy and should be punishable by death!
Usually it takes 2.5 minutes quickest and up to  5-7 minutes (in a worst rim case scenario) to remount  a rim and its button plate, so while not instant, it's still pretty bloody quick

Additional infos, in case anyone's interested. For button plates I used A4 sized 3mm carbon fibre sheets, which are priced rather reasonably (about £20) and you can make 2-3 plates from one sheet/use the remains for paddles etc.
Buttons from various eBay outlets, but I'm getting tired of seeing the most common plastic buttons used on everyone's button boxes and wheels these days (pictured here at the bottom part of  sparco and momo rims plate). They are great, esp the feel of them, but far too common, so I tried to find alternatives and still believe FREX's buttons are the best aesthetically, even if they cost a bit more.

Hope this helps someone like me. If anyone done anything similar already, feel free to show off here :)

Edited by frapster

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Frapster, congratulations for your mod.

I have a question, I am not experienced with electronic (and sorry for my non perfect english).

I have a fanatec hub (pc version) and a sparco p104 sport that has got 4 buttons.

I would like to use the free slot present in the hub (I use all the accessories coming with the hub) to connect the buttons (probably only 3 of them can operate), I can buy the connectors you mentioned, but every button of the wheel has 2 wires (red and black) while the connector has only 4 slots.

Please explain me which cable from the button has to be connected to the connector. Thank you in advance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, biancazzurro said:

Hello Frapster, congratulations for your mod.

I have a question, I am not experienced with electronic (and sorry for my non perfect english).

I have a fanatec hub (pc version) and a sparco p104 sport that has got 4 buttons.

I would like to use the free slot present in the hub (I use all the accessories coming with the hub) to connect the buttons (probably only 3 of them can operate), I can buy the connectors you mentioned, but every button of the wheel has 2 wires (red and black) while the connector has only 4 slots.

Please explain me which cable from the button has to be connected to the connector. Thank you in advance

each connector has 4
so 1 is ground and has to be connected/shared with every button and 3 other ones for each button. so 1 ground and one of 3 for each button, thus you shoudl be ok with one single connector
cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's a little bit too much hassle to open up my hubs now to check exactly, but if I remember correctly, on those particular JST connectors Ground is the red wire

On the bigger black connectors it is the black wire - so need to interconnect them, then buttons 1, 2 and 3, in the order they areE
EDIT: I realise you may not need the black connectors, depending if you plan to make it work as in my mod, but you may want to just extend the JST wires to your switches not using connectors outside of the hub, as those are a bit short otherwise

You can test your wires by shorting them (thus activating/pressing them like with a button/switch)and monitoring that in control panel applet for the device, that's how I found which was which :)
but others may say it's a bad idea, to experiment on a live device

Edited by frapster

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
0