Can you put an aftermarket quick release on the Fanatec formula rim?
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83 posts in this topic

Thats a great product.... thanks for the tip Bailey. I too was hesitant to do the mod just because I know how much of a pain it is to release so many pins at the same time. So you put the yellow stuff on the existing solder, then add new solder on top, and then heat them all again and pull the part? Is that how it works?

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Thats a great product.... thanks for the tip Bailey. I too was hesitant to do the mod just because I know how much of a pain it is to release so many pins at the same time. So you put the yellow stuff on the existing solder, then add new solder on top, and then heat them all again and pull the part? Is that how it works?

 

Yup, you got it. I figured it was the right stuff for the job as it helped me with larger chips with legs on all 4 sides.

Once I pulled the plug off I cleaned up the pads a bit more with desoldering wick. 

 

Here's a video for anyone interested who has never used it before

 

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Cheers for your help and advice Bailey. Great you sharing this :-)

I actually thought I'd get that done elsewhere by a professional, but I think I'll give it a go and do it myself.

Some youtube lessons and I believe we'll get it sorted.

 

Cheers

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Thirsty maybe you could pop by a computer store and/or find any old board with some surface mounted chips you could practice on if you haven't done it before.?

Gotta be some worthless/junk parts at a computer store! 

I scrounged up a board I had on hand just so I could do a test run and "knock the rust off" of me lol. 

That would probably give you the confidence and experience to avoid overheating etc. :)

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Yes, that's a very good idea. Why haven't I thought of that?. That's almost a bit concerning.

Calling my soldering skills average would be an exaggeration no doubt. So, a bit of practice before I get started on the rim is the way to go.

 

Thank you very much :-)

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I've done quite a lot of these conversions now and have stopped even trying to remove the socket from the Fanatec board as it seems pointless

All I do now is cut the QR wires and solder then to the Bodnar board.  You still solder the F1 at the back so it's still secure.  The some glue gun to keep everything in place.  There is plenty of room in the F1 wheel so the slight extra height causes no problems.  Also this process is totally reversible and has no real risk.

IMG_3694m.jpg

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You know I would really like to do one of this conversions because it would be a nice easy alternative to my heavily modified CSW Formula rim when using the oculus rift but Fanatec still won't ship to New Zealand.

I mean FFS!! it is 2015, Fanatec is about the only company I know of that won't ship to New Zealand, even their Australian website won't ship to New Zealand.

fanatec%20no%20NZ_zpscggdhnev.jpg

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I enjoyed reading this thread and wondered if this simple hole pattern adapter might be useful.

A version made from solid aluminium that has tapped threads could also be easily produced.

In the case of a Thrustmaster I was thinking that this adapter could be bolted to a DSD adapter then Fanatec could be bolted to this adapter???  A similar version could be developed for the OSW.

I have never taken an F1 rim apart so don't know 100% if this will work!

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/custom_simracingparts?section=Wheel+Adapters+%26amp%3B+Spacers&s=0

Rear-52mmTo70mmAdapter.JPG

Front-52mmTo70mmAdapter.JPG

Edited by SteveS

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Steve, i've been making quite a few adapters using Aluminium.  The Fanatec plate is 6 hole 52mm.  Industry standard is 50.8mm so I have done that mainly to connect the Q1R for OSW users.  Then for Q1R 70mm and AccuForce I do 52mm to 70mm.  With the 70mm AccuForce QR's especially you have to extend the QR out so it clears the Fanatec shifters or add spacers to the shifters.

Here are a few examples of my conversions

Finished2m.jpg

CSWF1NRGCarbonm.jpg
20151029Sale2m.jpg

I've also made Carbon Fibre replacement shifter paddles as you can see in the first pic.  The mountings are now black to look better.

Edited by razorsimon

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Thank you Simon for sharing your images and ideas. The black square shape matches the wheel much better, than my DSD version...

Anthony A  today asked for the 52 > 70mm for his Thrustmaster DSD adapter, which caused me to do a search on 52mm bolt pattern and that landed me here!

Making them from aluminium is also better than 3D printed parts, but this was quick and easy side project today! I'm still poorly, so no workshop time at the moment...

Fanatec F1 rims excellent quality for the price, no wonder so many people are looking at converting them! Now that Leo has made and adapter circuit everyone has even more incentive!

Edited by SteveS

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Here are a couple that i've just finished and are awaiting fitting to wheels...

This first one shows a 15mm thick Aluminium plate covered in Carbon Wrap because the black paint job was far from perfect.  This is to mount a 70mm Q1R to the CSW F1.  It's using steel threaded inserts going both ways and has holes that can be tapped.  In practice you only need use 3 holes for each pattern, this is quite strong enough.  This plate means the Q1R can be bolted to the wheel without having to take the wheel apart again.

MH_QR1m.jpg

This next one is for an AccuForce QR.  I've made this from 6mm Aluminium with 8mm of black Acrylic as a spacer.  The Acrylic takes no load other than compression which its quite capable.  The Accuforce has to be bolted from the inside, so the wheel has to be taken apart to mount it.

Notice the nice painted shifter mounts :)... i'm really pleased with these and the extra size and wider position makes a real difference when using the wheel.  The paddles are basically in a similar place as using Martin Asher or PSE snap action shifters.

GH_QR1m.jpg

GH_QR2m.jpg

Edited by razorsimon

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So hows the mod going?  

Didn't get started on it yet.

I'm currently focusing on my rig, but I wanna get stated on it soon. I need a soldering station as well.

My plan is giving you some feedback on how I'm going with it. May be interesting for others considering a doing that who have literally no soldering experience like me :-)

In regard to the spacer/adapter I haven't really made much progress. A sim gear manufacturer quoted $180 for one individually made...hmm...maybe I should consider changing hobby or what.

It would be nice to get one made of aluminium.

However, I really like Steve's design...looks fantastic. Steve, you'd definitely get a 'like' for this, but it seems Darin got rid of that feature.

Steve, could you offer a spacer/adapter from 52mm down to 50mm and what would that cost? I'd think the thickness would be approx. 15mm.

Cheers

 

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You know I would really like to do one of this conversions because it would be a nice easy alternative to my heavily modified CSW Formula rim when using the oculus rift but Fanatec still won't ship to New Zealand.

I mean FFS!! it is 2015, Fanatec is about the only company I know of that won't ship to New Zealand, even their Australian website won't ship to New Zealand.

fanatec%20no%20NZ_zpscggdhnev.jpg

Normally I'd feel sorry for you, but considering what you've done in the rugby final...

Seriously, it's a pita. I guess you got contacts here in Oz and you would be able to arrange something. If not let me know - I'd pass it on to you.

Cheers

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Hi Thirsty, as Anthony suggested I think Leo has a nice solution, but still expensive.

If you want a cheaper 24USD 3D printed option I have uploaded an adapter 50mm to 52mm 17mm thick... Is the correct size 50mm or 50.8, I assume Leo is correct?

https://www.shapeways.com/product/SSBLNDXWR/50mm-to-52mm-adapter-17mm-thick

As a matter of interest, I will get quote for 1/2" & 3/4" aluminium in round & square designs. I know for a fact it will not cost $180!!!

Rear-52To50mmAdapter.JPG

Edited by SteveS

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Bodnar already makes an aluminum one from 52mm to 50.8mm.  

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=97&products_id=262

Yeah, I know Anthony.

It's 50.8mm so a tad larger than the Q1R which is 50mm, but it should certainly work.

Bodnar's adapter is pretty thin though and that is the reason why I'm looking for other options. The whole thing is about getting the formula rim positioned at the same distance to me as the GT rim which has a bit of a dish.

If these adapters/spacers were more affordable I'd even put something - maybe 20mm or so - between my GT rim and the 70mm Q1R just to avoid getting in trouble in case I want to put a GT rim with a larger dish on my base at a later point in time.

However, these things are so expensive that I may have to settle for a sort of compromise...see how we go.

Cheers

Hi Thirsty, as Anthony suggested I think Leo has a nice solution, but still expensive.

If you want a cheaper 24USD 3D printed option I have uploaded an adapter 50mm to 52mm 17mm thick... Is the correct size 50mm or 50.8, I assume Leo is correct?

https://www.shapeways.com/product/SSBLNDXWR/50mm-to-52mm-adapter-17mm-thick

As a matter of interest, I will get quote for 1/2" & 3/4" aluminium in round & square designs. I know for a fact it will not cost $180!!!

Rear-52To50mmAdapter.JPG

Cheers Steve. I'll have a look at that :-)

Yeah, I checked with Holger and he confirmed his Q1R is exactly 50mm, but he said 50.8mm would fit as well.

 

 

Edited by Thirsty
Clarification

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Step away from the forum for a few weeks to train and you miss al the good shit.   

 

 

And and forum looks different every time you come back :)

 

Wow, cool thread. Excited to see how the rim turns out thirsty. Thanks everyone for posting all the info and details.

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Thirsty,  as you get thicker weight starts to become an issue.  a 20mm thick aluminum plate would be so heavy that it would impact on the feel of the wheel.  Building a spacer in layers seems the best way forward to me.  You want the structural strength of Aluminium / steel for where the bolts sit, but then other materials can be used to space things out.  I use Acrylic, but 3d printed material would probably be alright as well.  For a 20mm adapter I would personally make something like an 8mm Aluminium plate in the middle of 2 5-6mm Acrylic spacers.  Easy for me to say when I can cut things myself of course, but if you can find a friendly machine shop locally it might be possible to get something made.

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Hi Thirsty, as Anthony suggested I think Leo has a nice solution, but still expensive.

If you want a cheaper 24USD 3D printed option I have uploaded an adapter 50mm to 52mm 17mm thick... Is the correct size 50mm or 50.8, I assume Leo is correct?

https://www.shapeways.com/product/SSBLNDXWR/50mm-to-52mm-adapter-17mm-thick

As a matter of interest, I will get quote for 1/2" & 3/4" aluminium in round & square designs. I know for a fact it will not cost $180!!!

Rear-52To50mmAdapter.JPG

Steve, I had a look at this one and I got a view questions about it.

It says the material is nylon plastic. Does it mean it's a mix of nylon and plastic or is it pure nylon? As far as I know nylon is extremely strong. Most likely much stronger than it has to be...and I like the idea :-)

Would you be able to offer a version of this with some changes as well? This is more a general question just to get an idea what's possible. I'd like to ask you some technical questions before coming up with them and I'd have to check some dimensions on my Fanatec rim as well. 

 

Thirsty,  as you get thicker weight starts to become an issue.  a 20mm thick aluminum plate would be so heavy that it would impact on the feel of the wheel.  Building a spacer in layers seems the best way forward to me.  You want the structural strength of Aluminium / steel for where the bolts sit, but then other materials can be used to space things out.  I use Acrylic, but 3d printed material would probably be alright as well.  For a 20mm adapter I would personally make something like an 8mm Aluminium plate in the middle of 2 5-6mm Acrylic spacers.  Easy for me to say when I can cut things myself of course, but if you can find a friendly machine shop locally it might be possible to get something made.

That's some good advice. The aluminium plates on the Q1R have been designed as small as possible it seems and they aren't even thick.

However, these complex shapes require some proper machines. Gotta check out a local workshop or two...see what they say.

Cheers

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To be honest I don't know the ratio of nylon in shapeways parts, they are more than strong enough in compression, but not strong to hold a thread which is why I added recess to hold metal nuts. DSD adapters have threads in the 3D printed part but this ways always an issue if you need to remove the screws more than a few times.

 

I have a price from a friend with machine shop, cut with a profile cutting machine & then taped with 5mm thread.

 

Round (50.8mmTo52mm-17mm-Aluminum) cut from our 3/4" (6061) 19mm Aluminum     $45.00 Each

Round (50.8mmTo52mm-17mm-Aluminum) cut from our 1/2" (6061) 12.7 Aluminum     $30.00 Each

 

Square (70mmTo52mm-12.7mm-Sq-Aluminum) cut from our 3/4" 19mm (6061) Aluminum        $65.00 Each

Square (70mmTo52mm-12.7mm-Sq-Aluminum) cut from our 1/2" 12.7 (6061) Aluminum        $55.00 Each

 

In my opinion, the weight difference between 3/4" 19mm aluminum Vs 1/4" + 1/2" acrylic will be not noticeable different plus you have a lot more good threads nicely in the spacer. 3D printed will be lighter in weight because you can do complex shapes & make the part hollow in low stress areas.

 

Send me DWG file with the corrections, it's really quick & easy to create 3D volume for 3D printing. I have yet to find a quality 3D printer who offers a better price than shapeways. Below shows a custom 3D enclosure I designed & 3D printed with shapeways. So with some measurements from a real F1 wheel it would be easy to create a really nice custom adapter combining profile cut aluminium & 3D printing.

 

The big advantage of 3D printing they can be ANY shape because you're paying by weight & size. A big disadvantage is the surface finish is not smooth, but they look great when applied with 3M wrap.

MclarenRearEnclosure-InsideDetail.jpg

CNC machining 2D profile complex shapes is very reasonable, but CNC machining complex 3D shapes in aluminium is too expensive unless you do big production runs 1000+ parts.

 

Below shows a high precision profile cut part from 30mm thick aluminium, with wall thickness of 2.5mm & 2mm holes ready for threading. Profile cutting you pay by total length of the cut + material cost. The cut edge in aluminium is not polished and requires a light sanding.

PrecissionProfileCutting.jpg

Edited by SteveS

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