TX POWER SUPPLY REPLACEMENT
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37 posts in this topic

I've been asked by a few members to document what I did to repair my Thrustmaster TX when the power supply burned out. Reading through the threads here, it seems like this is a common issue with the TX so I hope this helps someone.

 

First thing to do is source a power supply. There are several candidates that can be bought cheaply on eBay but for this repair I used an old Dell laptop power supply. Ideally your power supply should a ) have the correct input mains plug and voltage rating and b ) have an output of about 5 Amps at 24 volts DC. You can go as low as 19 volts or as high as 26 volts for the output but the ideal voltage is 24 volts. 

 

I decided to use a laptop supply because they have internal circuit overload protection. I also wanted to protect the internals with an inline fuse like this one http://tinyurl.com/occze4t but I only had an auto inline blade type fuse so I used that for this build.

 

Here's the power supply I sourced:  USA  AC 110v input / DC 19.5v  6.7 Amps output

 

post-26474-0-90779200-1441256435_thumb.j post-26474-0-92834200-1441256436_thumb.j

 

Locate the plug on the output end

 

post-26474-0-71497800-1441256531_thumb.j

 

...and cut it off. Make sure you leave enough room to be able to strip back the wires.

 

post-26474-0-62009100-1441256533_thumb.j  post-26474-0-41728600-1441256744_thumb.j

 

Unsheath the wires and cut about 2mm of insulation off the end of each one to expose the wire inside.

 

post-26474-0-28532000-1441257046_thumb.j

 

Now we have to make sure we know which is positive (+ve) and which is negative (-ve). DO NOT ASSUME that the black wire is always the -ve or the red is always the +ve.  ALWAYS meter them to be sure.

 

Set your multimeter to a range higher than the voltage you will be reading. In this case, I'm setting mine to the 20 volt DC range as I know my output is going to be less than 20 volts.

 

post-26474-0-56987900-1441256537_thumb.j

 

Making sure that the two wires you just cut are not touching, plug in the power supply to the mains. Measure the voltage across the wires...

 

post-26474-0-06893300-1441256535_thumb.j

 

...then reverse the probes and measure again.

 

post-26474-0-22586600-1441256536_thumb.j

 

Notice that the measured voltage is negative when the black probe is on the white wire and positive when the black probe is on the black wire. This means that the black wire is the -ve supply and the whte wire is the +ve.

 

Unplug your power supply from the mains.

Edited by Marcoma

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Here's the inline fuse I'm going to use. Currently it has a 5 Amp fuse in it but it should be a 3 Amp fuse for this application. Let me say that again....

 

USE A 3 AMP FUSE

 

That clear? :D Good.

 

post-26474-0-63909400-1441258255_thumb.jpost-26474-0-50364500-1441258254_thumb.jpost-26474-0-07635500-1441258259_thumb.jpost-26474-0-10055200-1441258260_thumb.j

 

Strip back 2 mm of insulation from the ends of the wires on the fuse holder. Cut about 30 mm (1 inch) of heat shrink insulation for each wire and slide it over the wire. Here I'm using red for the +ve white wire and black for the -ve black wire. 

 

post-26474-0-19144400-1441258258_thumb.jpost-26474-0-57922700-1441259759_thumb.jpost-26474-0-18580800-1441258261_thumb.j

 

Time to break out the soldering iron....

 

post-26474-0-45151100-1441258253_thumb.j

Edited by Marcoma

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To "tin" the ends of the wires to be soldered, apply a small amount of solder to the tip of the hot iron. Place it on the wire to be soldered then add a little more solder to the wire when it is in contact with the iron. The solder should flow onto the wire.

 

 

Dont leave the iron on there too long or it will start to melt the plastic insulation on the wire.

 

I have this "helping hands" gizmo which is really ....err.....handy for holding wires while I solder them. Alternatively you can burn your wifes fingers.... :P

 

Tin the fuse holder wires

 

post-26474-0-67226400-1441259110_thumb.j post-26474-0-73900200-1441259114_thumb.j

 

Tin the power supply wires

 

post-26474-0-37302500-1441259109_thumb.j post-26474-0-87664400-1441259115_thumb.j

 

Once tinned, position the wires together and solder then by applying heat to the joint then flowing a small amount of solder over the two wires. I'm extending the the black wire here so it has a similar length to the fuse holder.

 

post-26474-0-82831400-1441259113_thumb.j post-26474-0-88004500-1441259116_thumb.j post-26474-0-94553100-1441259118_thumb.j

 

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Once the solder joints have cooled sufficiently, slide the heatshrink over the joint and apply heat to it. You're supposed to use a heat gun for this but I use the soldering iron.

 

post-26474-0-19480400-1441260108_thumb.jpost-26474-0-15306800-1441260110_thumb.jpost-26474-0-20130400-1441260111_thumb.j

 

The tip of the iron is too hot so use the shaft instead.

 

So thats the first part done. You now have an in-line fuse ready to be connected to the TX main board.

 

post-26474-0-82173000-1441260451_thumb.jpost-26474-0-65860900-1441260452_thumb.j

Edited by Marcoma

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Open the TX base and remove your blown power supply. Unplug the 4 pin power plug from the main circuit board (its the one on the underside with 2 red and 2 black wires). Push the latch to release it. The power supply should now be removed.

 

Cut the 4 pin plug off the blown power supply, leaving at least 2 inches of wire.

 

post-26474-0-68550000-1441261492_thumb.j post-26474-0-76715600-1441261494_thumb.j 

 

Strip the 2 thick wires on the plug and tin them.

 

post-26474-0-68053000-1441261495_thumb.jpost-26474-0-73091800-1441261496_thumb.j

 

Insulate the two thinner wires and tape them out of the way - these are not used in this mod.

 

post-26474-0-65484300-1441261490_thumb.jpost-26474-0-77462500-1441261493_thumb.j

 

Cut another two pieces of heatshrink and slide them over the +ve wire from the fuse holder and the -ve wire from the new power supply. 

Solder the black (-ve) wire on the plug to the black wire from the new power supply.

 

post-26474-0-69356400-1441263015_thumb.j

 

Solder the red +ve wire on the plug to the in-line fuse from the new power supply. (as above)

 

Slide the heatshrink over the joints and apply heat to shrink.

 

post-26474-0-60867000-1441261491_thumb.j

 

The new external power supply is now ready to install.

 

post-26474-0-71377300-1441263014_thumb.j

Edited by Marcoma

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If you haven't already done so, remove the bracket that holds the main power plug on the TX base.

 

post-26474-0-51227000-1441263733_thumb.j

 

Using a sharp set of cutters, remove a 5mm square from the bracket as shown in the photo below.

 

post-26474-0-53966600-1441263735_thumb.j

 

....so that it ends up looking like this:

 

post-26474-0-70167000-1441263737_thumb.j

 

Place the new power supply cable between the pillar on the base then slide the bracket back into position to hold it. (see below)

 

post-26474-0-54415600-1441263731_thumb.j

 

reconnect the 4 pin plug to the main circuit board. Heres the installed bracket and power supply.

 

post-26474-0-60112100-1441263732_thumb.j

 

Push the fuse holder back through the original power cord hole so it can be accessed externally when the base is re-assembled.

 

post-26474-0-60628500-1441263736_thumb.jpost-26474-0-67964100-1441263734_thumb.j

 

Making sure there are no wires caught in the two halves, re-assemble the base.

 

post-26474-0-38586700-1441263739_thumb.j

 

Congratulations! You're done! Go test the base.... don't forget that both the USB cord and the power supply have to be connected for the TX to power up.

 

 

DISCLAIMER: This mod is done at your own risk. 

 

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LOVE this -- thank you!  I'm getting ready to do this exact build following some of your previous posts, and I was planning on documenting it as you have done here.  Thanks for saving me the trouble! 

 

;)

 

One tip:  If you grab this adapter, you can incorporate an On/Off switch to allow you to turn power off -- just remove the connector that DOESN'T mate with your power supply to the board instead of soldering the power supply lines directly, then plug the power supply in to the mating end, and you then have the ability to easily replace the power supply if it dies on you, and you also have the ability to use the On/Off switch to kill power to the TX when not in use:

 

Link:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/171884328966?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

PowerAdapterOn-Off.JPG

 

The added On/Off switch should also make it easier to power-up the TX -- you should be able to leave the USB cord plugging-in all the time, then just use the switch to apply power to the TX after rebooting your PC and such. 

 

Here are the other parts I've sourced for my build (lowest prices I could find):

 

Power Supply:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-100V-240V-to-DC-12V-24V-Switching-Power-Supply-Adapter-for-LED-Strip-Light-/272073607757?var

The power supply I've listed above is a 5A -- my original post showed a 3A supply, but this one should be more sufficient.

 

Fuses:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-x-3A-cuspate-blade-fuse-Auto-Car-Truck-Motorcycle-Fuses-/301317705834?vxp=mtr&hash=item4627ef506a

 

Fuse Holder:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/221807699247?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Haven't had time to even take my TX apart yet, but I have all these parts on-hand and waiting for install, so thanks for the detailed DIY on this! 

 

B)

Edited by jbodin

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The on/off switch is a good idea. I was lying in bed last night and thought I'd suggest it this morning when I read your thread above ;)

 

Regarding the power supply you have listed above, I would have opted for at least 5 Amps. The TX will spike to 8 Amps so I think a 3 Amp psu may not be up to the job. Let us know how it performs.

Edited by Marcoma

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The on/off switch is a good idea. I was lying in bed last night and thought I'd suggest it this morning when I read your thread above ;)

 

Regarding the power supply you have listed above, I would have opted for at least 5 Amps. The TX will spike to 8 Amps so I think a 3 Amp psu may not be up to the job. Let us know how it performs.

 

I'll let you know how it works -- in the meantime, I'm going to start searching for a similarly low-priced 5A or higher power supply, based on your recommendations! 

 

THANKS!  :)

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Hey guys I think I blew my T300 power supply, at least I hope that It's only the power supply. What I did is, since I lost the original power cable of the base, and Thrustmaster didn't reply to my e-mail for like a month, I went ahead and tried to make a DIY cable. I first checked the base it self, trying to figure out where the four pins on the base lead to. Opened it a figured, at least I tought so, that  the two bottom left pins should be used, then used a normal cable with two pins on the end. Plugged it in, the base started buzzing, but that wasn;t enough of a bad sign to me so I went ahead and plugged the usb into the computer, the wheel started to calibrate but after a few seconds something blew inside the base, I guess the power supply. I still don't get why are there four pins on the end of TX/T300 power cable, so can someone explain?

So, I need to replace the power supply, I guess that this method would work, are the TX and T300 power supply the same? And can someone tell me, since I have the T500, can I use it's power supply? I don't mean to cut the end of the T500 power supply but to buy, If it's available, the same pin conector wich is on the T500 base and use that with the T300 base? Can It be done?

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Well I answered my question yesterday, I went ahead and did it. So what I did yesterday was I opened the T500 base and took the 4 DIN female connector. Then I opened the T300 base, took the blown power supply out along with It's 4 pin connector. Then cut its, the T300 power supplies connector for the mainboard, soldered the two thick red and black wires to the T500 DIN connectors + and -, and voila. smile.gif Put everything back into the T300 base, used the plastic part that holds the original T300 4 pin power connector and screwed the T500 4 DIN to it, and I was ready to go. Put the T500 wheel, pedals and shifter to T300 and everything worked beautifully, went ahead and played some Asetto Corsa. smile.gif

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Well I've put everything back together, but it's no biggie, the T500 conector has little board with + and - clearly shown, so I just solderd the thick red wire from the T300 supply, shown on post #5 of this thread,  to the + on the DIn board and the black to the -. I could take a photo of the conector on the T300 base. Sorry for not documenting the process but I was just to eager to get it working! If I have the need to open the base again I'll take a picture of the conector, but It beein' plastic It shouldn't be opened to many times.

Edited by Wallace45

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Well I answered my question yesterday, I went ahead and did it. So what I did yesterday was I opened the T500 base and took the 4 DIN female connector. Then I opened the T300 base, took the blown power supply out along with It's 4 pin connector. Then cut its, the T300 power supplies connector for the mainboard, soldered the two thick red and black wires to the T500 DIN connectors + and -, and voila. smile.gif Put everything back into the T300 base, used the plastic part that holds the original T300 4 pin power connector and screwed the T500 4 DIN to it, and I was ready to go. Put the T500 wheel, pedals and shifter to T300 and everything worked beautifully, went ahead and played some Asetto Corsa. smile.gif

 

Holy cow, Wallace -- quite inspired!  VERY glad to hear this worked!  I may try doing the same thing -- I have a T500 that has mechanical issues, and a TX that has a bad power supply, so I have all the elements required to do what you did.

 

If (when?) I do this to my TX, I'll try to get some pictures to document the process.

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As I said on GTP, I'm glad I could post something useful. Again, sorry for not posting pictures. Now I now why they put the power supply into the T300 base. One reason had to be to add some weight to it, because without it it's so light, and with it's small size nobody would take it seriously. compared to T500 base. :)

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On 9/3/2015 at 9:17 AM, Marcoma said:

If you haven't already done so, remove the bracket that holds the main power plug on the TX base.

 

photo 3 (16).JPG

 

Using a sharp set of cutters, remove a 5mm square from the bracket as shown in the photo below.

 

photo 4 (11).JPG

 

....so that it ends up looking like this:

 

photo 5 (11).JPG

 

Place the new power supply cable between the pillar on the base then slide the bracket back into position to hold it. (see below)

 

photo 1 (22).JPG

 

reconnect the 4 pin plug to the main circuit board. Heres the installed bracket and power supply.

 

photo 2 (21).JPG

 

Push the fuse holder back through the original power cord hole so it can be accessed externally when the base is re-assembled.

 

photo 4 (12).JPGphoto 3 (17).JPG

 

Making sure there are no wires caught in the two halves, re-assemble the base.

 

photo 5 (12).JPG

 

Congratulations! You're done! Go test the base.... don't forget that both the USB cord and the power supply have to be connected for the TX to power up.

 

 

DISCLAIMER: This mod is done at your own risk. 

 

I know this is an old post but can you please describe whether I can do the same with my t300rs wheel? Why did you only use 2 wires and insulated the other red and black wire? You said its not for this mod but can you please specify?

 

Im sitting with a problem where I will have to convert my 220v lead to 110v when we move to Canada, and if I need to do something similar like your thread I will :)

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8 hours ago, ruanp28 said:

I know this is an old post but can you please describe whether I can do the same with my t300rs wheel? Why did you only use 2 wires and insulated the other red and black wire? You said its not for this mod but can you please specify?

 

Im sitting with a problem where I will have to convert my 220v lead to 110v when we move to Canada, and if I need to do something similar like your thread I will :)

You just buy a 110v power cord.

jfkf8o.jpg

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Hello all; hoping some of you are still working with the tx power issues.  I have the one with the external ps.  I contacted jbodin through his web page but i figured this forum would be more appropriate.  I am getting 24v from the ps and 5v from the usb.  I have bypassed the usb quick connect and have good connections on all.  Still no power up on pc or xbone.  strange thing is the cap (c30) has ground at both ends.  thought it was a bad cap so i removed it and the pads on the board still have ground at both sides.  The coil next to it (L1). The component (L2) is labeled as a coil but it looks like a transformer and I get continuity across it.  Any help is greatly appreciated.  

1498434053847828635080.jpg

Edited by soccent

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So i gave up on the original tx i had rhat wasnt powering up...i bought a new one but it didnt have the power cord for the internal power supply. Does anyone here have one i can buy? Thrustmaster support says they are out of stock in the US.

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On 9/3/2015 at 7:54 AM, Marcoma said:

 

 

Insulate the two thinner wires and tape them out of the way - these are not used in this mod.

 

post-26474-0-65484300-1441261490_thumb.jpost-26474-0-77462500-1441261493_thumb.j

 

 

 

HI i know this is a old thread but i need to fix my tx race wheel and this seems to be the only way. can you explain why we dont need the 2 smaller wires and what they do please ?

 

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8 hours ago, MuddyGamer said:

HI i know this is a old thread but i need to fix my tx race wheel and this seems to be the only way. can you explain why we dont need the 2 smaller wires and what they do please ?

 

5V power from USB

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