The Unofficial OSW owners thread (aka osw owners share your pics)
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338 posts in this topic

I am afraid my DIY skills is very limited and it would be an embarrasing read. The build should be pretty straight forward as all cables are premade and it´s just hooking it up. The big challenge is getting it all into the 130 case :)

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I dont think getting it in that case will be an issue, its more about how to mount the individual components and also creating a panel for the back for the connectors. Not a must but then it looks pro.

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So I noticed something the past few days, pertaining to iracing's force feedback. It appears to be a bit coggy, or notchy. I know this sounds ludacris, and the first thing you might suspect is that I have settings on my osw dialed in way off or something like that, but I assure you it is Iracing only.

Here's what happened. I noticed the coggy, notches, when turning the wheel slowly while in pit lane. I plan to make a video to demonstrate. It feels a hell of a lot like a t500 notchiness feeling, except smoother. Clearly, I can feel little dips of force as I turn the wheel. When I'm driving normal, I still feel it.

Now, force feedback filter setting in the MMos counters this feeling when I crank the slider up to 15 or above, but yet, I still feel it. It feels like its in-game though.

How did I confirm this is a in-game sensation, and not due to my osw? Simple, I ran assetto Corsa, and it was butter smooth. Then I ran project cars, same effect. Smooth as silk, even with the ffb filter MMos at a low setting. I further confirmed this without running any game at all, and just turned on a high spring effect for my wheels desktop mode. This felt butter smooth too. No notchy feel or "little steps". Mind you, the steppy sensations felt in Iracing only concern me because Ithow they could be better. I did try changing my app.ini file in documents/Iracing, but this did little to remove the steppy notches felt. I am 100% positive it had to do with how the ffb is configured in Iracing. This is not a wheel or motor issue. Its a Lenze in case anyone new is wondering.

I plan to go back into the app.ini file tonight to see if there's any setting I can dial in that removes the steppy notchiness of the natural ffb. I know this sounds crazy, but I swear it's only in Iracing.

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there is a guy that has done a 3d printed back panel for the 130,he also put the STL file up so you can print it if you know anyone with a printer,,,,

 

i'll try and find the post tomorrow if you need it.

That would be cool :)

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For those of whom plan run pcars, the ffb options will crash your game if you try to change them. Example: cycling though the list of supported wheels will crash your game every time. And it won't save. Here's the temp work around.

Itl let you change the wheel to custom, but itl take a few game crashes to do so. As I'm clicking with the mouse on the right arrow to change to a different wheel, it cycles through the list of supported wheels. If you scroll through several times too fast it will crash instantly. Scroll over 2 wheels, then hit escape, which saves the wheel you saw displayed before you hit escape. It took me 4 game crashes to do this step, repeating each time, until I finally reached custom wheel, and hit escape, this saving my choice. Then I calibrated the wheel through calibration procedure in the controls menu. From there, add any control assignments to your button bot or wheel plate as needed.

I'll do my best to make a video of how I have the ffb settings in pcars to help anyone along. I've dialed them in pretty well now, and it feels pretty good.

SMS hopefully will release a patch soon that eliminates game crashing when using osw. The crashes occur randomly when changing any ffb settings, and when changing car / track in quick race or practice.

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Ok, high end wheel enthusiasts from all walks of life. My lady is having "one of those days," which means I'm doing whatever the heck I feel like doing tonight, lol, and I'm nerding out here on the driving rig. If anyone would like to join in some iracing practice sessions and "shoot the shit" (chitty chat) about gear, I'll be on for the next few hours, having a pint of a double Belgian, making a fool of myself @ 29Nm of force, one turn at a time.

 

"James High" on iRacing is me.

shoot me a PM/Friend or just join in. I've been meaning to PM a lot of you guys to get some driving sessions going, meet and greet, talk shop, etc. Figured I'd make a quick post here in case any of you are sim racin' at the moment.

 

Cheers fellas.

Edited by jimmyhigh

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29Nm? Nothing can currently run the Lenze at 29Nm. The Argon is currently limited to 19Apos / 13.5Arms. The Lenze torque coefficient is 1.4, thus the Lenze can only theoretically hit ~19Nm. Due to efficiency loss it's probably closer to around 17-18Nm. There's a beta firmware that takes the Argon to 22Apos, but that will probably only take the Lenze to 19-20Nm after efficiency loss. Apparently the Argon circuitry takes a beating at those levels, and things start completely failing at 24Apos, so an official 22Apos may never become available.

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attachicon.gifsw4.jpgattachicon.gifsw1.jpgattachicon.gifsw2.jpgattachicon.gifsw3.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20150827_114057.jpg

Here's some quick photos I snapped. Lenze motor. holger quick release. Sportline 300mm wheel, and sportline 280mm formula style wheel. No wheel plates as of yet. 

 

I've been constrained for time, so I'll just give a few first impressions, and later I'll upload the unboxing video, which is amateur at best. haha. 

 

the setup was relatively easy thanks to the project brute force thread on iracing forums. also thanks to Dennis Reimer. He gave me all the settings I needed for Granity software, so the only think I needed to do was download the freeware MMos software. Alternatively, If you're short a USB port, or just play only iracing, you can run serial output instead and run Open Sim commander software. I just run MMos since its compatible. 

 

1: Iracing:

WOW. In the the Honda HPD-ARX prototype, the sensations were incredible. with Iracing ffb setting of between 8 or 9, It was a beast. But it wasn't TOO brutal, but I really do like the available torque. Its an awesome workout. When I'm warming up, I'll keep the ffb slider down a bit. But running it within the clipping meter (never let it clip) was just exciting. I felt bumps, slips, and momentum shift could be felt. I stopped paying attention to the spectacle of it all within a few minutes, though, and that actually was kind of a bittersweet moment. For so long I wanted this kind of wheel; a force feedback system that could convince me that what I was feeling was as close to the real thing as possible. Now here it is, and a thought crosses my mind: I'm still playing the same game as before. Now I really have no excuse to not drive the doors off any car. If I made this investment, its time to get the most out of it. As fun as it is to tinker and test all the new cars with this new wheel, I found myself eager to join a race and just carry on with my iracing leagues and series. I'm not saying that this wheel's wonder wears off by any means. No. Far from it. That amazement has returned each time I turn on the wheel and boot up a sim.

 It'll quickly sink itself into your senses (and muscles), and you'll find yourself just happy, content, driving in practice sessions for hours, no longer tinkering with ffb settings, but instead tuning your car, feeling subtle differences, and trying to shave off those seconds. The OSW is the death of my tinkering obsession with FFB. With both my old TM wheels, I often adjusted settings in attempts to find the right feel, or keep the wheel cooler to prevent fade, or just out of curiousity. Then I'd be adjusting the slider in iracing alot. So no more of that. a good thing perhaps. I'm happy with my wheel setup (finally!). Now I just drive my ass off. 

Other cars all have different feelings, and I run different FFB levels on the iracing slider depending on the car of course. The only thing worth adjusting after that is in the MMos Software, which is REALLY impressive. 

 

2. MMos software:

Right away, I'll let you all know that I run the software with overall strength at 100%. this doesn't mean there's clipping, it just means I'll have 29Nm of headroom available. this is how you need to run it. allow it to have the available headroom, and lower your settings in your respective sim.

 

there are settings that allow you to get a brief preview of the smooth / effects even while just on your desktop, or even while you've got iracing up and running (in the pits). Unlike the thrustmaster driver software I was accustomed to for years, where I could not adjust settings on the fly, MMos can run while I'm playing iracing, and I can adjust certain things if need be. this helped alot. the biggest slider / adjustment is the filter. this has the effects of smoothing out the raw sensations of the  Lenze motor. On the Lotus 79, hooooolly crap the wheel feels raw. Its almost too much detail. for a while I thought that bolts had come loose in my wheel shaft, because I felt these suble jiggles, some sharp and pronounced, others bulgy and smooth. Its the ffb at work. Some cars in iracing will have more of these sharp sensations, and its up to the user to decide whether they like the raw feeling or want it smoother. the BEST part of the filter slider in MMos, is that there really isn't much critical detail lost in the steering itself. I still catch slides, and feel road bumps. Etc. Its really impressive. It feels alot like dampening, but without the added weight, and loss of immediacy. SO perhaps there IS a little bit of tinkering involved, but its just ONE slider that I adjust. it feels good either way. there's no loss of detail regardless, its just a preference think depending on the car. I'll run the ffb filter at 9 for most cars. When I tried Assetto Corsa, I only ran the filter at 3. its a much different exeprience than I expected. Awesome. I'll touch on that more in another post. the filter is the key to everything as of now. I'm really happy with the MMos software. It's easy. I don't tinker much. I just dial in how smooth I want it, and then I drive. 

 

More impressions to come...its dinner time.

 

An absolutely ASTONISHING, SUPERB, GROOVEY, BITCHEN, and GNARLY post James!!!!!! Dammit now you've made the wait for my Lenze kit even more difficult arrrrgggh!! :D Can't wait to try it out on my rig. Last wheel I owned was an ECCI 7000 and that seemed to already have a nice amount of torque.

 

 

As expected I ran into EMI issues briefly, not quite as bad as others. EMI (electro magnetic interference) is not too bad. It means the wheel will show a disconnect, or sometimes it affects other components like bodnar sli devices, etc.

I already heard about it on the Iracing forums so I was prepared. Apowered USB Hub, and running ground wires from a mounting bolt on the Lenze to the 8020 solves the issues. Also ran a ground wire from my protosimtec pt1 pedals USB box to the rig to remove occasional spikes in load cell. Everything is smooth sailing and it really wasn't hard to deal with.

 

 

It's posts like these that make people like you an invaluable asset to these forums. Thanks a bunch for the tips bro. I'll be sure to follow your advice to a tee once my wheel and pedals arrive in Late November.

 

James I'm wondering though....do you by any chance play any arcade racing games with your OSW? I'm a super hardcore arcade racing enthusiast and I'm looking for impressions from people with OSWs on how arcade games feel with their Lenze/Small Mige/etc. I'm a fan of the older Sega arcade racers like Daytona USA, Daytona 2, Super GT, OutRun 2, and F-Zero GX....all of which are perfectly emulated on PC and support force feedback. I simply can't wait to try these games with my Lenze.

 

If anyone dabbles in these arcade racers and have an OSW feel free to chime in :)

 

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29Nm? Nothing can currently run the Lenze at 29Nm. The Argon is currently limited to 19Apos / 13.5Arms. The Lenze torque coefficient is 1.4, thus the Lenze can only theoretically hit ~19Nm. Due to efficiency loss it's probably closer to around 17-18Nm. There's a beta firmware that takes the Argon to 22Apos, but that will probably only take the Lenze to 19-20Nm after efficiency loss. Apparently the Argon circuitry takes a beating at those levels, and things start completely failing at 24Apos, so an official 22Apos may never become available.

 

Interesting, I was not aware of this. I was vaguely referring to the 29Nm I run some cars with in iRacing (this is the alt method to the numeric ffb slider most people use from 0-100)

-Always interested in learning more about the direct drive system I paid someone to build for me. =)

 

James I'm wondering though....do you by any chance play any arcade racing games with your OSW? I'm a super hardcore arcade racing enthusiast and I'm looking for impressions from people with OSWs on how arcade games feel with their Lenze/Small Mige/etc. I'm a fan of the older Sega arcade racers like Daytona USA, Daytona 2, Super GT, OutRun 2, and F-Zero GX....all of which are perfectly emulated on PC and support force feedback. I simply can't wait to try these games with my Lenze.

 

 

 

Wouldn't that be fun!? Sadly I have little time as it is to re-play some of the best arcade racers from the past. I used to be on PS3 primarily, but I replayed Daytona with a T500, and that was tons of fun. If I come across some throwback games for free I'll be sure to make a fun video.

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^^^ I'm not sure about this. I posed this question to Dennis when I was looking for a wheel back when he was still offering multiple motor options. I'll look in my email but from what I recall I was concerned about f3 torque levels onward to train for my racing and he addressed the different motors.

Cheers

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Ok guys. I finally got the Pcars settings pretty damn good for the OSW. If you have pcars, prepare for a long evening of game crashing, as the newest version of Pcars crashes when you run OSW, and attempt to change control configs. I'll be making a few tutorial videos on my new youtube channel to help along those who are getting OSW up and running in the coming weeks/months. 

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Been building my OSW the last few days but got quite some set backs.

 

I got Ollies kit he make a breakout board which then goes to a Ioni X4. I get the leds blinking but the discovery board don´t get any power. I must hook it up to the computer so it get power that way. the power and com leds is blinking red. On the Ioni X4 the leds are blinking yellow on the RJ45 connectors and orange on the Ioni Pro. I am not able to find them I suspect they are not getting enough power either.

 

Not quite sure what can be the issue. I have noticed that the small mean well RS 25 psu is blinking green (not the big 600W meanwell). Manual don´t dictate if it should be a steady green or not.

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Read your post, sorry to hear. I wonder what went wrong?

They have identical connectors. Somehow I managed to connect the small PSU where the big should be and vice versa. I got smoke as soon as I hit the power switch. I am sure this don´t help if it´s the only issue I got I don´t know. So I guess I fed the ioni with 24V and the breakout board with 48V. However all the smoke came from the RJ45 connectors on the X4 which should be fed by 48V. I really don´t know what is fried and what is not.

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They have identical connectors. Somehow I managed to connect the small PSU where the big should be and vice versa. I got smoke as soon as I hit the power switch. I am sure this don´t help if it´s the only issue I got I don´t know. So I guess I fed the ioni with 24V and the breakout board with 48V. However all the smoke came from the RJ45 connectors on the X4 which should be fed by 48V. I really don´t know what is fried and what is not.

Hey vist,,

 

Were you supplied with any instruction manual with ollie's kit or are you just working it out with the other build guides that are out there?

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