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Quick, cheap, and dirty TX brake pedal mod

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Yeah, the stock brake is not great and even though I'm a newbie to sim-racing and am only playing on a console I know how to drive a lot better than was being represented on the screen.  Braking was killing me. 

 

So I started designing a spring loaded gizmo with junk around the house to add some kind of resistive load just based on what I thought would work when I decided to look into what others have been doing because I surely am not the only one who thinks that this should be better.  Then I learned about load cells.....that kind of information and my brain is a bad combination because a year later I may have something that takes up half the living room and cost $1000 to make.  But I'm also aware of my tendencies and reigned myself back in. 

 

So after ditching the load cell idea I watched every ISRTV video on pedals and got educated on what was out there.

 

So long story short I kind of ripped off (I mean drew inspiration) from the conical brake mod on the TP3A.  I'm not dropping $99 (as if I could ever find one in stock) to gain what amounts to a piece of $.05 rubber on a little $.50 metal bar...now if I had a shifter and needed a clutch pedal that is an entirely different story, but I don't and this isn't rocket science.  I just need something that will give me some resistance without killing the travel in the process.

 

So I spent about 30 minutes walking through Lowes trying to find anything that I could buy and hack up to make work.  Well it turned out cheaper and easier than I expected. 

 

So buy a pack of these (the title is mislabeled; they're not felt, but rather like a rubber/gel):

http://www.lowes.com/pd_310995-255-4118395N_0__?Ntt=310995&UserSearch=310995&productId=3091003&rpp=32

 

and take one of these (I had some around the house):

http://www.amazon.com/Square-Self-Adhesive-Rubber-Furniture12mmx12mmx6mm/dp/B00H8UTNY4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1422306826&sr=8-4&keywords=adhesive+rubber+foot

 

So you take the furniture gripper and cut it so that it fits in the flat area behind the pedal (on the base, not the pedal) and stick it on there.  I had to cut about 1/16" on opposite sides and then another 1/2" off one of the other sides so that it wasn't sticking out.  It should look square on the part that you can see and should be flush with the top of the base.  The goal is to have the little nubs be the center point for the next step. 

 

Take the second little rubber foot and stick that to the back of the pedal arm (not to the gripper) aligning it so that it meets the center of the furniture gripper.  I used a pair of needle nose pliers to hold it in position and then pressed the pedal down and it seated perfectly.  Mash it a couple of times to make sure that the adhesive takes and you are done.

 

Now I know that this is really dead simple and I probably went way too deep on this, but the reason is that this wasn't the first or second or even third attempt at trying to figure out something that worked well; there were foams and bigger pads and all kinds of stuff that went into the learning process (meaning failures) and this is the combination that works perfectly for me.  I can hit the brake and just as its starting to grab I can feel it yet there is still enough give that if I mash on it I can get full lockup (in case I ever wanted to eat a wall or something).

 

And I'm sure that others have done something similar or better, but I looked around and found nothing in here on it so I figured I'd share.  If it didn't work well I wouldn't have bothered.  It's quick, cheap, and dirty, and it works, but most importantly it doesn't void your warranty either.

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Sounds good you got any pics??? I love the home made stuff, my rig looks bad but works great...think that's the best way...anyone can spend hundreds of ££ $$$ on the nicest rigs but that's not always the point....

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Broke the 2 minute mark on Prague in Class A on Forza 5 the other night.  I still need to learn to set up my cars better, but I can tell you right now that without this little mod that I'd be about 30 seconds slower.  It's impossible to regulate breaking without physical resistance like this.

 

And after almost a month of pretty regular use it's held up fine.  I don't get any money if you use this, but as someone who has done a lot of modding to just about everything this is one of the most successful ones where nothing was cut or drilled or even opened up.

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So i did this mod today.

 

man thanks a lot for making this post.

 

i picked up the clear rubber bumpers pack that they also sell at lowes (on the same rack the pads were on no less).

 

i gained 10 seconds on laguna seca after this.  made such a gigantic difference.

 

thumbs up.  bigtime.

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So i did this mod today.

 

man thanks a lot for making this post.

 

i picked up the clear rubber bumpers pack that they also sell at lowes (on the same rack the pads were on no less).

 

i gained 10 seconds on laguna seca after this.  made such a gigantic difference.

 

thumbs up.  bigtime.

 

Dang it, I couldn't find those at Lowes.. Here's a video I did on the mod..Thanks for sharing Ashasha !

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Idil5wuI33U

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Great video Darin, but even better is the suggestion to switch it around....I hadn't even thought of that.  Brilliant.  I had to reattach the felt on the furniture gripper with some heavy duty 3M adhesive last week, but the super glue and just changing positions is a great idea.  I'm probably going to do it myself just because it's a better configuration.

 

Interesting that your little rubber foot was sliding on you; must be different adhesive.  The ones I linked were just chosen for size, I had some laying around the house and I have no earthly idea where I bought them from (WalMart or Radio Shack most likely).

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Thank you. I had recently purchased a TX and shortly after GTE and can’t justify spending more anytime soon on pedals and shifter so your mod sounded like a plan. I went to source parts but it was too late at night and stumbled upon 7/8 rubber chair tips 4 for $2.49 at wally world. I used a rotary tool / hot glue and did some trial and error and found the perfect threshold for me. I sanded and fine-tuned it using the control panel and works great on both console games.

 

IMG_20150228_141132.jpg

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I'm in the UK and also looking for suitable parts. If I find them I'll let you know - just using half a doorstop at the moment. It works very well - took a minute of my time in the championship we're running on Forza, but want something more permanent and reliable.

This mod looks ideal.

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Hi

I finally got the parts together to do this mod.

Firstly, you cannot believe how much hassle it was to get them grippers. I know I could have looked for an alternative, but I really wanted to make sure the rubber was the correct hardness. As it turns out, I was right to get the waxman ones, as they are A LOT softer than anything I found in the UK. (I could now probably get some equivalent rubber from work now I know the hardness)

I fit the mod the same way as Darin in the video, and let the glue set overnight. After trying it out last night, the results are fantastic. I now have so much more control over my braking, and am not constantly locking up. In confident enough to use this for an upcoming TORA event.

Thank you to Ashasha for the excellent idea, and to Darin for the video.

Now time to save for some T3PA-Pros........

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Hi Guys,

Is anyone using this mod with a PS4? if so how do you calibrate the brake pedal to allow for the shorter travel and still achieve 100% braking? Just got all the materials and the mod done - but while playing driveclub I basically have no brakes..

 

any tips would be appreciated..

 

Thanks, 

Dan

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Hello everyone

 

Here is a simple fix that gives decent resistance after a few mm of pedal travel and helps give that ability to slightly modulate that travel. All you need is a few items:

 

1. Three heavy battery springs. I removed three size "D" battery springs from the battery compartment from a busted LED lantern.  Size D battery springs are thick enough to give decent resistance (talking socks not shoes here)

 

2. I used 3M 20lb all weather double sided tape to mount springs to pedal base. This resembles a strong servo tape.

 

3. the springs if the correct size will rest angled to the back of the pedal stalk with about 10deg of pedal travel before making contact. 

 

see attached pics for examples

 

Thanks

moto

 

www.elitemotorsportsracing.com

post-24808-0-38397900-1428552730_thumb.j

post-24808-0-32190800-1428552758_thumb.j

post-24808-0-10960700-1428552814_thumb.j

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Hi

I finally got the parts together to do this mod.

Firstly, you cannot believe how much hassle it was to get them grippers. I know I could have looked for an alternative, but I really wanted to make sure the rubber was the correct hardness. As it turns out, I was right to get the waxman ones, as they are A LOT softer than anything I found in the UK. (I could now probably get some equivalent rubber from work now I know the hardness)

I fit the mod the same way as Darin in the video, and let the glue set overnight. After trying it out last night, the results are fantastic. I now have so much more control over my braking, and am not constantly locking up. In confident enough to use this for an upcoming TORA event.

Thank you to Ashasha for the excellent idea, and to Darin for the video.

Now time to save for some T3PA-Pros........

Hey buddy,

I am from the UK too and very interested to know where you got the bits and now finding the American product if there is an alternative in the UK you would recommend? I am struggling with the braking so much and this is going to help me soooo much.

Thanks In Advance

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Looking at getting the T300 over here in the UK and would also be interested to know where you got the parts as I've had a look for the waxman stuff and its closer to the £20 mark over here ($31 instead of 5 lol).

The battery spring mod looked interesting though, did it provide much resistance?

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If anyone is having deadzone issues with the stock T300RS pedals... read on
 
I don't recommend this to anyone unless you have some technical skills.
i was able to get rid of the deadzone almost completely, clearly by mistake. with no mods at all.
At least for Pcars on the PS4. didn't try GT6 yet.
 
While trying to retrofit some padding where the pedal rests (to shorten brake paddle travel) and eliminate a few millimeters, i took the pedal case apart.
Watch out as it is somewhat tricky to get everything back (pay attention to the the brake pedal spring)
 
While connected to my PC with the Thrustmaster control panel software on , and the wheel connected and turned on, i fiddled with the potentiometers for both, accelerator and brake.
 
As i thought they had to be in a specific spot, i wasted about 2 frustrating hours trying to get them accurate with the software.
 
Well... they dont have to be!
 
Try set them as accurate is possible (hard task with the case not screwed).
But most importantly, turn them both to locking position first and then set each one so that the gears on them are engaging the pedals gears, from start to end, going clockwise.
 
Regardless of what the software will tell you, (they will look completely not tuned) turn off the wheel.
Connect everything back and plug in PS4, before you turn wheel on. (dont forget PS4 mode on wheel)
 
Start Pcars and calibrate everything , specifically paddles. 
push both paddles very slow until they reach 100%.
Test it with a car you know.
 
I got almost zero deadzone on my brake paddle which was driving me nuts. i'll wait on that T3PA purchase now (not in stock where i live).
Some rubber padding at the back of the paddle for some progression...perfect!
 
TIP: Try different sensitivity settings for the paddles in Pcars wheel setting.
 
Good luck!!

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If anyone has had any experience or knows what position the Pots (Potentiometers) are supposed to be in for the Gas and Brake, I would love to know. I've managed to mess up the position while modding my pedals.

 

Well I learned yesterday if I had only read the manual (buried in the attic) that all you have to do is power cycle the wheel and the pedals are calibrated. 

 

My Upgraded spring mod cost me $1.35 and a good hour of sweating through the Pot's issue. But all is good. 

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