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Logitech Wheel Settings - G25 G27 DFGT DFP

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HI All,

We have a lot of people asking us what our Logitech wheel settings are. This is what we use on all the major PC simulations. iRacing, rFactor, Netkar Pro etc.. Settings may change for personal preference, but this is what we have.

In game, it varies from sim to sim, and sometimes by the car as well.. Mainly with the degrees of rotation.

This will link to an older segment that Shaun did, but it applies to the G27 and all Logi wheels.

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My first post may as well be a thank you.

Thank you Darin and Shaun for this post.

I am new to sim racing, just built a PC and am trying to figure out which way to go wrt sim software. I really like STCC as it feels like I am actually controlling the car. Just recently bought a G27 and all the learning curves can become a little overwhelming.

Playing sim racing on your own as a beginner has a massive learning curve. I am struggling to control the cars. I don't really get the sense of speed therefore I tend to approach corners too fast, then breaking just sends me off the track. Being new to wheels, you are always left wondering, is this current setting good? I don't really know as I have little experience and I have no reference point for comparisons No matter what settings I use, nothing seems to resemble a real car.

This post acts as a starting point I guess. Thank you lads so much.

As its my first post.....

I live on the west coast of Ireland, just recently (past week) discovered your video magazine on youtube and have been watching a few episodes. What a fantastic service. I

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My first post may as well be a thank you.

Thank you Darin and Shaun for this post.

I am new to sim racing, just built a PC and am trying to figure out which way to go wrt sim software. I really like STCC as it feels like I am actually controlling the car. Just recently bought a G27 and all the learning curves can become a little overwhelming.

Playing sim racing on your own as a beginner has a massive learning curve. I am struggling to control the cars. I don't really get the sense of speed therefore I tend to approach corners too fast, then breaking just sends me off the track. Being new to wheels, you are always left wondering, is this current setting good? I don't really know as I have little experience and I have no reference point for comparisons No matter what settings I use, nothing seems to resemble a real car.

This post acts as a starting point I guess. Thank you lads so much.

As its my first post.....

I live on the west coast of Ireland, just recently (past week) discovered your video magazine on youtube and have been watching a few episodes. What a fantastic service. I

Besides wheel setup, another crucial thing to setup properly is your field of view.. You want to be as close to looking out of a windshield, or over the front wheels in an open wheel car as possible.. If your field of view has you sitting over the back wheels, you may not be able to judge corners, or get a good feel for what the car is doing based on visual cues.

Welcome to sim racing and our site !

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I thought I would mention a little trick for DFP users I had posted in a f1 2010 thread. If using on a console, you can force 900 degree rotation by pressing brake, select, r3, and shift up lever simultaneously after the game boots up and runs its calibration sequence. You will here it unlock and both lights on the wheel should light up. I did this with f1 2010. You can then adjust the linearity and saturation settings to get the game to stop responding to your steering input somewhere around where you want it to be. 900 is a bit too much for f1 for me, but I was able to get about 360 pretty comfortably. There will be no hard lock, but you can pretty much tell. I imagine this could work with WRC, but I don't have that game to try it.

I set F12010 in game setting to 35 sat, 50 linearity and that gives me about 300 degrees of rotation (estimated). I also set wheel weight to 10% with DFP, just because those gears turn kind of slow.

Sadly this won't work with the DFGT. Now if there was only a code to make the pedals not suck...

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Hey,

I can't save a profile for iRacing in the logitech software due to it not having an executable file. A detailed walk through would be a huge help...or point me to an existing thread that has one. The youtube video skips this part and I did a search to no avail. Obviously im new to iracing and credit your show for pushing to finally give it go last night! Great job guys!

One more question from your wheel review...the fanetic pedals used plug right into a logictech DFGT?

Thanks again!

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First of all I want to say thank you to Darin and Shaun for all that you do in the SIM Community. 2 questions I have is for you settings, What do you have your Axis Properties set at in the profilier and also, can these same settings be used say in like NR2003?

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I'm having a problem with my g27. The wheel will not stay centered. There is an option in game to adjust the center position for the wheel, but it only works for a little while. Half way through one race and it is already off center. Any help would be appreciated. I seem to have this problem in both Richard Burns Rally and Enthusia. Therefore, I don't think it is a game setting. Probably a logitech issue. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

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I looked for an answer on the Logitech website. They stated,"It could be an issue with the calibration ring, OR it could be a problem with the calibration data in Windows. Try downloading/running the ClearCalibration.exe utility, and if that doesn't help, try it on a differnet PC. If those both fail, then it could be hardware."

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Hello...i'm new to my Logitech G27....i have a question about the setting....why (Spring & Damper Strength Effect must off to 0%????)...what happen if i slide to 30%-30% or 50%-50%????what could will be????please tell me...i really want to know...thank you

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Hello...i'm new to my Logitech G27....i have a question about the setting....why (Spring & Damper Strength Effect must off to 0%????)...what happen if i slide to 30%-30% or 50%-50%????what could will be????please tell me...i really want to know...thank you

From my experience having these set to 0 allows the game's software to control the ffb instead of the Logitech Profiler. There maybe a few games with poor ffb you want some spring and damper effect. Any game with good ffb you don't need the Profiler to add any effects.

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I just tried these settings and went into iRacing to see what a difference it made to my laps at Lime Rock in the MX5 cup. Within 5 laps I was 1.5 secs faster than I'd managed in a whole weekend of lapping. Awesome :D

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Hey,

I can't save a profile for iRacing in the logitech software due to it not having an executable file. A detailed walk through would be a huge help...or point me to an existing thread that has one. The youtube video skips this part and I did a search to no avail. Obviously im new to iracing and credit your show for pushing to finally give it go last night! Great job guys!

One more question from your wheel review...the fanetic pedals used plug right into a logictech DFGT?

Thanks again!

You just have to lie to the profiler. You create a profile for any game installed on your machine in the Logitech Profiler (you can put iRacing button settings, etc. in this profile) and then in Options/Global Profiler Settings you just bullet "Apply Persistent Profile" and make sure the game you set the profile for is shown in the window beside it. The settings will carry over into iRacing. Works for me.

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I personally use the default control panel profile to setup my wheel. Since I may change things per game, (rotation mainly) I just use the one.

Also, for iRacing I would go with 900 degrees of rotation on most cars and add 5% damper in the profiler. That way the damper slider in iRacing has effect and you can adjust it in game. If you set it to 0% in Windows, it turns dampening off.

Also, some say to put FFB to 107% to lose some of that dead zone.

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I'd like to throw in my 2 cents... I'm afraid I don't agree with Darin and Shaun's Logitech G27 setup for rFactor... but I can understand why they chose 341 degrees of rotation.

After tinkering around with the settings myself, I found out that in the "Garage" section, just before entering the race, you have the "Steering Lock" setting, which is usually set at 14 by default. This is why 900 degrees of rotation seems to be too much for most cars on rFactor, as the steering lock of most road cars is usually 26 - 28 (offset from center to one side, not both sides). The "Steering Lock" set at 14 is the culprit.

People seem to be bugged by the fact of having to change the degrees of rotation for their wheels (and other settings) every time they choose a different car in rFactor ( since not all cars have 900 degrees of rotation). Here is my solution to the problem:

1) I use the rFactor Lite installation and install each mod separately in its own rFactor folder.

2) I launch each different mod from the Logitech profiler. In the profiler, I assign different wheel settings for each of my rFactor mods. Each mod has its own wheel settings (defined by me), so for example, I assign 900 degrees of rotation to the Supra MKIV mod and 540 for the V8 Supercars. When I want to launch a mod, I simply choose it from the drop down list in my Logitech profiler. Mod launches with all the pre-determined wheel settings, ready to use :)

To conclude, I advise you do the following: Assign the same degrees of rotation (Logitech profiler) and steering lock (in-game) for your cars as their real-life counterparts. Assign a profile for each of your rFactor mods in the Logitech profiler (wheel settings and all), to save you the hassle of having to change them everytime you try a different mod.

Hope this helps :)

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In that chapter shaun says that having damper and spring over 0% allows logitech program to throw some effects that you dont want...specifically what do these effects do? I guess that they are there for some reason

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Glad I stumbled into this thread, the feel of the force feedback is much more intuitive.  I actually feel more comfortable knowing when my tires have grip and can safely get back on the throttle.  I'm still relatively a beginner, but instantly I was able to shave 3 seconds off a lap at Brands Hatch and a huge 14 seconds off at Laguna Seca.

 

Now off to find how this feel in RBR.

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Hi guys. I don't have a gaming PC yet and only bought a wheel (dfgt) only a few weeks ago. I only play GT5 through the PS3 so is there and settings that might be able help a novice like myself. Thanks Dave...

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to anybody with dfgt check out the rsf paddle shifters

 

Looks good. I think someone was trying to sell a few of those on this forum not to long ago. My only thought here is, for the extra cost, doesn't it make sense to go with a G27. Perhaps it's a suitable idea for someone who's already got the DFGT. I'd try to sell the DFGT and upgrade to the G27. Outside of that, looks like a good upgrade.

 

 

How do you think they will compair with the Granturgismo paddle shifters for dfgt

 

From what I was able to tell, it was a good wrap around frame where as the Grandturismo Paddle Shifters were a plastic addon with no additional supports.

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Hi guys. I don't have a gaming PC yet and only bought a wheel (dfgt) only a few weeks ago. I only play GT5 through the PS3 so is there and settings that might be able help a novice like myself. Thanks Dave...
I play GT5 and the 3 wheel settings are: Steering Type= Doesn't matter because its not applicable to a DFGT. Power Steering = I have it off but you could try it both on and off and see what you like Force Feedback 1-10 = I have it set to 5 but when I was first learning with the DFGT I set it to 1. I think it's easier at first to set it low until you get used to the wheel then set it where you like.

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