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SRW S1 Mod Help (Completed)

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I've just purchased a SRW S1 that I want to mod and attach to my T500.

 

I want to mod the cable so that it can be replaced with a coiled usb that can be plugged into the wheel.

 

How easy would this be to do without any soldering?

 

I was thinking I could just cut the cable inside the wheel and attach the wires to something like this:

 

Would this work?

 

usb-panel-02.jpg

 

usb-panel.jpg

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Sure....you can, you can use any plug with 4 inputs/outputs....put female on the wheel and male connect to a cutted USB cable....

If you use this from the pic   you will need standart USB cable.

You just need 4 wires to meet same 4 wires , no matter how;)

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Thanks Krassi.

 

Does anyone who already owns an SRW1 know the type of USB wire it uses and what connector will be compatible?

 

The example shown above is from the Leo Bodnar site and it's sold out and I can't find the same elsewhere.

 

These are what I've found so far and I don't know if they'll work.

 

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Pictures of the Guts of an S1 will probably help,

 

http://s150.photobucket.com/user/davidmoxley123/library/SRW-S1%20wheel%20MOD?sort=4&page=1

 

or

http://s150.photobucket.com/user/davidmoxley123/library/SRW-S1%20wheel%20MOD/Wheel%20Mod%20Info%20Pics?sort=9&page=1 

 

 

PS Unkle, PLEASE re enforce your wheel before mounting, Last thing you want to do is break off the TINY little screw bosses the hand grips are secured to.

 

 

th_preview_image_1_53556962x_zps2ee85515

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What's the best (easiest and simplest) software to use to get the shift lights to work on iracing and all the buttons and the rotary knobs?

 

Here's what I've found so far:

 

  1. Fanaleds
  2. http://team.dgtl.dk/simraceway-srw-s1-shift-light-for-iracing-gtr2-and-rfactor/
  3. http://www.eksimracing.com/slimax-manager-overview/
  4. http://isrtv.com/forums/topic/6450-releasing-srw-s1-dial-utility-beta-16/
  5. http://simsli.com/

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Cheers guys!

 

I'm using Fanaleds for the time being since it was the easiest to get up and running.  So far Fanaleds has been pretty good but on a few occasions it cut out on me and I had to restart.

 

I'll give the others a try over time.

 

I quite like that dial utility, just a shame your PC has to be run in test mode to get it to work.

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I'm using Fanaleds for the time being since it was the easiest to get up and running.  So far Fanaleds has been pretty good but on a few occasions it cut out on me and I had to restart.

 

I'll give the others a try over time.

 

I quite like that dial utility, just a shame your PC has to be run in test mode to get it to work.

 

 

 

What do you mean has to be run in test mode ?  Been curious to try that dial Utility but never have.

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It's something to do with the fact that the free dial app needs to update drivers and your registry which costs something like a $100 a year for the software developer to pay MS.  So for the app to run you have to run Windows in test mode and there's a free app that allows you to do that.

 

That means to get the dials and the leds to work you have to run three applications!  Which is slightly off putting so I'm leaning towards paying for SLIMax Manager which I believe will allow you to configure the LEDs and map the button layout, I'm just not 100% sure it will allow you to map the rotary dials.

 

I was close to just cutting the wires off the PCB for the rotaries and covering over the holes since there's enough buttons on the wheel for everything I'd need anyway but the dials do look cool. 

 

It's pretty tight for space inside the wheel so removing the rotaries would have given me a little more space to better strengthen the contact points to the quick release.  I still might do that along with some additional eproxy to the inside if I find the wheel isn't holding up to the strength of the T500 ffb.

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I'm using Fanaleds for the time being since it was the easiest to get up and running.  So far Fanaleds has been pretty good but on a few occasions it cut out on me and I had to restart.

 

I'll give the others a try over time.

 

I quite like that dial utility, just a shame your PC has to be run in test mode to get it to work.

Thanks , keep us posted on which software you end up using and how it works.

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It's something to do with the fact that the free dial app needs to update drivers and your registry which costs something like a $100 a year for the software developer to pay MS.  So for the app to run you have to run Windows in test mode and there's a free app that allows you to do that.

 

That means to get the dials and the leds to work you have to run three applications!  Which is slightly off putting so I'm leaning towards paying for SLIMax Manager which I believe will allow you to configure the LEDs and map the button layout, I'm just not 100% sure it will allow you to map the rotary dials.

 

I was close to just cutting the wires off the PCB for the rotaries and covering over the holes since there's enough buttons on the wheel for everything I'd need anyway but the dials do look cool. 

 

It's pretty tight for space inside the wheel so removing the rotaries would have given me a little more space to better strengthen the contact points to the quick release.  I still might do that along with some additional eproxy to the inside if I find the wheel isn't holding up to the strength of the T500 ffb.

 

 

Interesting, thanks for the info.  At first i played Simraceway a lot and while being a noobie, I found myself playing with some of the assists and thing's and I found the Rotary's very handy but as time went on and I essentially stopped running assists the Rotary's became less and less of a Needed thing.  Now with the S1 mounted beside me as a Button Box I have WAY too many buttons and dont have a use for 1/2 of them with the games i play, (No Iracing.......yet)

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Interesting, thanks for the info.  At first i played Simraceway a lot and while being a noobie, I found myself playing with some of the assists and thing's and I found the Rotary's very handy but as time went on and I essentially stopped running assists the Rotary's became less and less of a Needed thing.  Now with the S1 mounted beside me as a Button Box I have WAY too many buttons and dont have a use for 1/2 of them with the games i play, (No Iracing.......yet)

Do you have any pictures of the SRW-S1 as a button box? Thats what I am going to do, how hard was it to take off the handles?

Thanks

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Ronzer it would be very easy to make into a button box.  I'd buy a little electronics project box that is about the same dimensions as the wheel and drill holes into it in the same pattern as the wheel face plate and then swap out the internal PCB and buttons. 

 

It would be very easy to do.

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Ronzer it would be very easy to make into a button box.  I'd buy a little electronics project box that is about the same dimensions as the wheel and drill holes into it in the same pattern as the wheel face plate and then swap out the internal PCB and buttons. 

 

It would be very easy to do.

Thanks for the info UNKLE, I get the wheel tomorrow so I will chech it out then.

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Do you have any pictures of the SRW-S1 as a button box? Thats what I am going to do, how hard was it to take off the handles?

Thanks

 

 

I kept it in the stock case and kept one of the "Gas/brake" paddles to be used as an E-brake. here's a link to a full break down of the S1, its rather simple to pull apart, 6 screw's on the back side and the face plate pop's off,     REMOVE the faceplate Face Down, Or you'll loose all the buttons lol.

 

http://s150.photobucket.com/user/davidmoxley123/library/SRW-S1%20wheel%20MOD/Wheel%20Mod%20Info%20Pics?sort=9&page=1

 

 

th_DSC_0369_zpsd224df01.jpg

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I kept it in the stock case and kept one of the "Gas/brake" paddles to be used as an E-brake. here's a link to a full break down of the S1, its rather simple to pull apart, 6 screw's on the back side and the face plate pop's off,     REMOVE the faceplate Face Down, Or you'll loose all the buttons lol.

 

http://s150.photobucket.com/user/davidmoxley123/library/SRW-S1%20wheel%20MOD/Wheel%20Mod%20Info%20Pics?sort=9&page=1

 

Thanks Nick

th_DSC_0369_zpsd224df01.jpg

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Thanks for the info UNKLE, I get the wheel tomorrow so I will chech it out then.

 

 

Here's a good video of the wheel being taken apart, it will let you see how simple the internals are:

 

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