Thrustmaster TX fan replacement
4 4

44 posts in this topic

Attached are the Noctua Fan install pics...

 

The top of piece with the original fan holes.

post-26558-0-61892500-1435421652_thumb.j

 

The Noctua fan mounted with a standard PC case fan screw.

post-26558-0-15043800-1435421657_thumb.j

 

The case with additional holes drilled for more airflow / heat dissipation.

post-26558-0-73176400-1435421661_thumb.j

 

 

I used an 11/64 drill bit to drill the PC case fan screw hole and a 1/16 bit to drill all the additional holes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Attached are the Noctua Fan install pics...

 

The top of piece with the original fan holes.

attachicon.gifIMG_3055.JPG

 

The Noctua fan mounted with a standard PC case fan screw.

attachicon.gifIMG_3057.JPG

 

The case with additional holes drilled for more airflow / heat dissipation.

attachicon.gifIMG_3060.JPG

 

 

I used an 11/64 drill bit to drill the PC case fan screw hole and a 1/16 bit to drill all the additional holes.

Note this thread is about fan modding the TX. I too had changed out the fan when I owned a T500 . The fan you are using doesn't fit in the TX which has a less spacious interior

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had my T300 wheel apart last night, and it looks exactly like your TX to my eyes.  The procedure for taking it apart was exactly the same, so this thread was very helpful to me.

 

The only thing I noticed was different, was that in this picture my T300 had two extra cables inside that were loose and bundled up.  Does anyone know what they are for?  They were poking through the little opening on the bottom, and had a white 2-pin connectors on each end.  My guess is they are for static shift paddles or something?

 

I attached a picture with some crudely drawn in wires to show what I'm talking about.  I ordered a new fan I'm going to wire in after measuring it inside last night, so once it comes in the mail I'll open my wheel up again and take some pictures of the wires.

post-26093-0-33273300-1436530767_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those are for the fixed paddle shifters like the ones used with the T500 -- the T500 fixed paddle shifter assembly can be installed on the T300 wheel (it was designed this way, with the intention of making the fixed paddle shifters available as a separate add-on).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had my T300 wheel apart last night, and it looks exactly like your TX to my eyes.  The procedure for taking it apart was exactly the same, so this thread was very helpful to me.

 

Any possibility that you could get a picture of the power input board so people could compare it to the TX board to see if any components have been upgraded or changed with the T300?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting, I might have to look into finding a pair of static shift paddles just to give them a try. :)

 

When my fan shows up in the mail and I take it back apart I'll try and get a picture or two of the power input board.  Hopefully that happens within a day or two.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had my wheel apart again last night installing my fan mod.  I didn't take the wheel entirely apart (only as far as I had to haha), so I don't know how much help these pictures will be to you guys....but I did my best to photograph what I could see of the PC boards.  I would have taken my wheel apart further, but was a little afraid to.  I tried at least...right?

 

Here is the static paddle extra wires, kinda neat they added them in there...even if I never use them.

post-26093-0-10697400-1437135430_thumb.j

 

Here is a view of the wheel with the cover off.  In order to get my extra fan to fit I had to take the existing fan off its bracket, and flip the bracket 180° and reinstall it.  This is just to move the fan away from the center of the wheel slightly to give clearance.

post-26093-0-58478100-1437135432_thumb.j

 

Here are some closeups for jbodin of what I could see for the boards and the large heatsink

post-26093-0-99098000-1437135433_thumb.j post-26093-0-27300700-1437135435_thumb.j post-26093-0-34429800-1437135436_thumb.j

 

Then lastly here is my fan mod.  I hot-glued a large fan to the inside of the top casing, drilled several small holes for it to pull air through, and drilled through the bottom casing large enough for an AC barrel plug to supply power to the fan, which I also hot-glued in place.  The fan runs off a little 12V power supply I got off ebay.

 

post-26093-0-38247900-1437135437_thumb.j post-26093-0-56574700-1437135439_thumb.j post-26093-0-44235300-1437135438_thumb.j post-26093-0-95626500-1437135440_thumb.j

 

The fan makes a little bit of noise, and is on 24/7 when you plug it in...but I did this on purpose.  My T300 has gotten very hot 2-3 times in the 3 months I've owned it, and that makes me worry I may eventually damage the wheel.  The force feedback weakens when it gets that hot (which could be project cars on PS4...the game is a bit glitchy), which I think is the wheel hitting a temperature sensor and changing power settings to compensate.  If I take a break and let the wheel cool down for 5-10 minutes the force feedback strength comes back.  With this extra fan installed it stays VERY cold, in fact the entire outer casing feels cold to the touch....even after the 3-4 hours of gameplay with double my usual force feedback settings I gave it last night.  No more getting hot, no more FFB weakening.  I wear a headset so the fan noise isn't an issue.  Even if I didn't I don't think it would be loud enough to bother me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had my T300 wheel apart last night, and it looks exactly like your TX to my eyes.  The procedure for taking it apart was exactly the same, so this thread was very helpful to me.

 

The only thing I noticed was different, was that in this picture my T300 had two extra cables inside that were loose and bundled up.  Does anyone know what they are for?  They were poking through the little opening on the bottom, and had a white 2-pin connectors on each end.  My guess is they are for static shift paddles or something?

 

I attached a picture with some crudely drawn in wires to show what I'm talking about.  I ordered a new fan I'm going to wire in after measuring it inside last night, so once it comes in the mail I'll open my wheel up again and take some pictures of the wires.

hard wired for sequential shifter.  I think they must of had plans for one to be released at same time and canceled it or maybe something in the future.  They work fine.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

new owner of a T300 here since last Friday, Yesterday i noticed an FFB fading in the mioddel of a long stint. Since i do long team endurance races, this is gonna be a problem for me. So today i removed completely the base case, i don't want to mess with fan replacements and drilling holes yet because i wanna keep the warranty. Is it possible it will make any difference by just removing the case or even have a proper (not a pc) fan blowing air to the motor? I am asking because i didn't have the time to test it yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, gregkar said:

new owner of a T300 here since last Friday, Yesterday i noticed an FFB fading in the mioddel of a long stint. Since i do long team endurance races, this is gonna be a problem for me. So today i removed completely the base case, i don't want to mess with fan replacements and drilling holes yet because i wanna keep the warranty. Is it possible it will make any difference by just removing the case or even have a proper (not a pc) fan blowing air to the motor? I am asking because i didn't have the time to test it yet.

I have taken the cover off of some Fanatec wheels in  the past and it always helped immensely with overheating issues.I think it will help you a lot. Give it a shot and report back for others.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i just finished removing the case and i also mounted a powerfull USB fan blowing air straight to the motor, i will test it later today and report back.

With my old CSR btw i could do 3h straight racing with the cover on, and never noticed the slightest FFB fading... Hope that this is not a sign that TM is already dying

Edited by gregkar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 17.7.2015 at 2:41 PM, ShredGuitarKev said:

Here is the static paddle extra wires, kinda neat they added them in there...even if I never use them.

20150716_194811.jpg

I wonder where these cables end on the PCB and if the TX has the corresponding sockets, too.
If so: Yay, DIY sequential shifter mod, here I come! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, racerz said:

I have taken the cover off of some Fanatec wheels in  the past and it always helped immensely with overheating issues.I think it will help you a lot. Give it a shot and report back for others.

1h stint on iracing, same settings as yesterday, but with cover off and a fan blowing air on the motor i had no FFB fading at all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/20/2014 at 5:30 PM, racerz said:

Loud fans drive me bonkers so I decided to replace the stock 60x60x15mm 12V .25A Chiefly fan.

 

 

First step is to  take off the round cover plate on the front of the wheel which has 4 screws which will expose  3 more underneath it you will need to remove.  All the screws you need to remove are the same size in this procedure so don't worry about keeping them separated. 

standard.jpg                   standard.jpg                                                                                                                          

 

Next step is to remove the 5 screws on the bottom around the perimeter

 

 

 

 

 

. standard.jpgstandard.jpg

 

Next I used the pictured pan scraping tool to and started at the back of the unit and worked my way towards the front to get the seam separated.At this point the only thing holding the cover on are the dreaded latches on each side of the front of the base.  They serve no real purpose. Just makes the cover harder to get off which is probably the idea to begin with.Once you get to the corner you need to pull the top cover forward and the snap will disengage.After removing the cover I ground off the little nubs on the top cover so I don't have to deal with this anymore

 

 

standard.jpg

 

 

 

 

After he cover is off you can simply remove the stock fan which is attached with two screws and then unplug it from the main board.  I ended up replacing it with this fan http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VKSXDI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I had some thin tin laying around and used it to construct the bracket for my new fan holder.A little grinding and bending and it was just at the perfect angle. The new fan is 80x80x15mm and barely fits with the cover on so the angle of the bracket has to be right.

 

 

standard.jpgstandard.jpg

 

 

 

As you can see I pirated a case fan adapter so I didn't have to rewire the fan in case it wasn't suitable.

 

standard.jpgstandard.jpg

 

 

From there it was easy. Just screwed the bracket in and plugged it in and was ready to go. This is what it looks like. Note the fan is almost touching the motor heat sink so the cover seats without hitting anything. There is very little room between the fan and the top cover but they don't touch. The new fan moves a good amount of air quietly . I kept the cover on without the screws for a few days to make sure it wasn't getting to hot. I don't have the FFB set real high which is my preference and everything was as cool as a cucumber . 

 

standard.jpgstandard.jpgstandard.jpg

I can not see those photos. What i need to do to make that posible? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/6/2017 at 2:30 PM, racerz said:

Send me your email address in a private message and I can send you the photos

Would like to see them. I am going berserk on the cover it just won´t come loose! It´s so frustrating spent 40 minutes on it using all kind of force I really shouldn´t. It´s the latches that is just to tight it seems.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
4 4