Thrustmaster F1 wheel mod with SIMR-F1 display, switches and encoders
11 11

239 posts in this topic

24 minutes ago, F1Aussie said:

Hey guys, with the wiring, if you have unused rotary switch, analogue and led wires can these be used to connect up buttons or not?

Cheers

Hmm not sure, Ill leave that one to Pascal lol. You must be planning a lot of buttons,  I maintained the motherboard, which can be done easily if you only use 2 12 post switches at the top locations.  thus i have plenty of spares. I didn't add extra p/buttons.  I added 2 x 12 posn switches, 4 x encoders, 3 x leds, 3x 2 posn switches and obviously maintained al original encoders and p/buttons.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, vicsalt said:

Hmm not sure, Ill leave that one to Pascal lol. You must be planning a lot of buttons,  I maintained the motherboard, which can be done easily if you only use 2 12 post switches at the top locations.  thus i have plenty of spares. I didn't add extra p/buttons.  I added 2 x 12 posn switches, 4 x encoders, 3 x leds, 3x 2 posn switches and obviously maintained al original encoders and p/buttons.

 

I will prob go your way minus the leds. Just thought it would be cool to have a 12 way rotary switch in the middle but I think it would leave me 2 or 3 wires short of rigging up all buttons the way I would like.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 24/2/2016 at 8:19 AM, vicsalt said:

? are you suggesting i should fit this ?  i sent it back but did check power was still going the board (pin 1 and 18 i think) I had 4.8v

A zener diode fitted in parallel to the power supply will remove voltage spikes

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, F1Aussie said:

I will prob go your way minus the leds. Just thought it would be cool to have a 12 way rotary switch in the middle but I think it would leave me 2 or 3 wires short of rigging up all buttons the way I would like.

How many buttons are you planning to connect to your display ???

I have 3 12-ways switches, 5 encoders, 3 3-way switches, 8 buttons, 2 paddles and still 2 digital inputs available. If you keep the PCB you get 15 more digital inputs ..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 24/02/2016 at 6:12 PM, vicsalt said:

Hmm not sure, Ill leave that one to Pascal lol. You must be planning a lot of buttons,  I maintained the motherboard, which can be done easily if you only use 2 12 post switches at the top locations.  thus i have plenty of spares. I didn't add extra p/buttons.  I added 2 x 12 posn switches, 4 x encoders, 3 x leds, 3x 2 posn switches 

Hi guys, I Want to keep all the original button functionality including both 4 way dpads separate from each other but also include 3 3 way switches at the bottom. I have the simr dlx coming and if I want a 12 way switch in the ferrari knob then I don't there are enough wiring options for it all i will prob just go with an encoder in the ferrari knob and keep the pcb.

Edited by F1Aussie
Change

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

New screen all back up and working. Now iracing has messed something up.  Im running the Renault 2.0 buit get no shift lights, im putting this down to iRacing,  anyone have the same issue ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/3/2016 at 1:29 PM, vicsalt said:

New screen all back up and working. Now iracing has messed something up.  Im running the Renault 2.0 buit get no shift lights, im putting this down to iRacing,  anyone have the same issue ?

You need to reinstall the latest version of SLImax Manager 3.4.4.9c

Previous versions will display no data with the DX11 version of iRacing although buttons and switches will work

Edited by pascalh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Guys, I am looking to cut the pcb for my mod and I noticed on the back side a silver circle that would have to be cut through, I presume it is okay to do so? The photo of it is below, it looks white in the photo.

Cheers

P_20160402_001151.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, would it work if I just had the SIMR-f1 display for rev lights, gear selected and lap time and did not mess around with any of the switch. And would it then work on Xbox one, Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Hey, would it work if I just had the SIMR-f1 display for rev lights, gear selected and lap time and did not mess around with any of the switch. And would it then work on Xbox one, Thanks

No only PC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Hi Guys, I am looking to cut the pcb for my mod and I noticed on the back side a silver circle that would have to be cut through, I presume it is okay to do so? The photo of it is below, it looks white in the photo.

Cheers

P_20160402_001151.jpg

You can cut through the silver circle: it is not connected to any signal wire.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To clarify if you maintain the original motherboard it maintain compatibility with a consal ( I have a TX, PC & XBOX). Obviously the display or any additional buttons etc connected via the display will not work. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is my progress so far, the carbon wrap looks great but is a pretty average job by me but it will suffice. Just have the display to put in place and the cut pcb back then get my old man to do the soldering. Thanks for the advice so far guys.P_20160417_220137.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well done, I avoided wrapping the whole wheel, for me very difficult to get a satisfactory finish.  I simply traced the removed metal plate, finish looks perfect.  I also added a smoked perspex cover over display, looks great.

 

PC did you remove the original decals, if not this can be done using a Stanley knife and re-use

 

 

IMG_0006.JPG

IMG_0004.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks good, yes the carbon wrap is hard to do on the curved surfaces.co see you have a different centre knob, the ferrari knob is tricky to do. I like the smoked perspex, finishes it off well. What have you mounted the display to?

Edited by F1Aussie
Update

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, F1Aussie said:

Here is my progress so far, the carbon wrap looks great but is a pretty average job by me but it will suffice. Just have the display to put in place and the cut pcb back then get my old man to do the soldering. Thanks for the advice so far guys.P_20160417_220137.jpg

Nice work ;)

How will the display be mounted ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys, when you first connect your wheel how do you stop the USB cable on the back of the wheel from flying around when the wheel first switches on and calibrates itself?

Edited by F1Aussie
Update

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 30/4/2016 at 4:01 PM, F1Aussie said:

Hey guys, when you first connect your wheel how do you stop the USB cable on the back of the wheel from flying around when the wheel first switches on and calibrates itself?

As you can see on the pictures in the wiring chapter, the USB wire is just below the hub. During calibration phases it just rolls around the hub. I am attaching the USB wire to the Thrustmaster clamp leaving around 1m of wire (extended) on the wheel side: this leaves enough extension for 1.5 revolutions on each side. Never had any problem there.

Hope this helps

Edited by pascalh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
11 11