Thrustmaster F1 wheel mod with SIMR-F1 display, switches and encoders
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242 posts in this topic

21 hours ago, vicsalt said:

the leds I've added are very bright i did put a resistor in, do i need to have a higher value ?

The light emitted by the leds is not homogeneous. There are some very bright spots close to the center. To homogenize and somewhat dim the brightness of the leds I put tracing paper between the display and the enclosure. The finish is much better, the leds will be much more readable from any angle and they won't blind you.

Let me know. 

Edited by pascalh

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2 hours ago, vicsalt said:

will do the tissue paper but my issue is the 4 other LEDs i added not the ones in the display

LEDs are usually driven with constant current output drivers but I don't know what kind of power driver is used in the SIMR-DLX. If this is the case, adding a series resistor will simply force the power driver to increase the average output voltage to reach the setpoint current and luminance will not decrease. The LED luminance will decrease if you increase the resistance enough that the driver reaches its maximum output voltage and cannot increase it further.

A better way to dim the LED in case of constant current drivers is to use a resistance in parallel to the LED. The LED luminance vs. current being almost linear (see graph below), assuming you want to reduce the light emitted by 2 and the base current being a standard 20mA, we would need to consume 10mA in the resistor. The LED voltage usually being 1.8V, R=U/I would be 180ohm.

Afficher l'image d'origine

Anyway I would recommend asking SimDisplay. Nace is very helpful.

Edited by pascalh

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5 minutes ago, vicsalt said:

Changed knobs and added translucent perspex to display :)  very happy with complete modification. Thanks to Pascalh for the guid and advice

Very nice and clean mod :)

Is your Ferrari knob functional? It seems yes as the Ferrari logo is rotated. How did you fasten the knob to the encoder shaft?

Edited by pascalh

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Help I have a issue please see detail below, Ive sent the text below to SIm Display, but welcome any advice

 

"Well my display eventually arrived on the 28th December, Thank you.  I was able to complete my project installing the display in my Thrustmeter F1 Rim.

 

Now the problem – Other than some basic testing all seemed to be working fine, and well pleased with my project. However today I took it to work to show some colleagues and connected up to few PCs to demonstrate the display working (the short flash of LEDs on initial power) However , ON connecting it back up to my PC there is no longer anything showing, no LEDs or Displays lighting on power and SIMR DLX isn’t finding any hardware ?

 

I’ve taken the wheel apart to check the usb connection (I've used the “RED” alternative connection as there isn't room to use the socket within the location of the rim.)  All seems fine, I put a meter on Pin 1 & 18 and have 5v which suggest the USB connection is fine.   I'm not sure of what else I can do, I could try the main usb connection but it will mean removing the display from the wheel which won’t be easy.

 

Advice please"

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39 minutes ago, vicsalt said:

Help I have a issue please see detail below, Ive sent the text below to SIm Display, but welcome any advice

"Well my display eventually arrived on the 28th December, Thank you.  I was able to complete my project installing the display in my Thrustmeter F1 Rim.

Now the problem – Other than some basic testing all seemed to be working fine, and well pleased with my project. However today I took it to work to show some colleagues and connected up to few PCs to demonstrate the display working (the short flash of LEDs on initial power) However , ON connecting it back up to my PC there is no longer anything showing, no LEDs or Displays lighting on power and SIMR DLX isn’t finding any hardware ?

I’ve taken the wheel apart to check the usb connection (I've used the “RED” alternative connection as there isn't room to use the socket within the location of the rim.)  All seems fine, I put a meter on Pin 1 & 18 and have 5v which suggest the USB connection is fine.   I'm not sure of what else I can do, I could try the main usb connection but it will mean removing the display from the wheel which won’t be easy.

Advice please"

I think the problem is hardware or firmware related. Only SimDisplay can help you ...

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Hi guys, what a great thread! I have ordered some bits and bobs so i can complete this mod. Kudos to pascalh.

I have a couple of questions to ask. I have noticed various mods where people have replaced the two way switches with 3 way switches. Firstly, what is the benefit? Does it for example allow you to increase and decrease a setting like tc using one switch? Secondly, can a 3 way switch be connected to the original little board or for it to work as a 3 way switch does it need to be attached to the display? Finally, where have you guys sourced the 3 way switch from?

Cheers

F1A

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On 18/02/2016 at 11:08 AM, F1Aussie said:

Hi guys, what a great thread! I have ordered some bits and bobs so i can complete this mod. Kudos to pascalh.

I have a couple of questions to ask. I have noticed various mods where people have replaced the two way switches with 3 way switches. Firstly, what is the benefit? Does it for example allow you to increase and decrease a setting like tc using one switch? Secondly, can a 3 way switch be connected to the original little board or for it to work as a 3 way switch does it need to be attached to the display? Finally, where have you guys sourced the 3 way switch from?

Cheers

F1A

The 3 switches on the bottom of the Thrustmaster F1 wheel addon are in fact 3 way switches where both outputs are connected together in the small PCB. If you want to use these switches as 3 way switches you have to remove them from the PCB.

Be aware that to remove them from the PCB you have heat them up quite a lot: in my case this resulted in bad operation of the switches. I replaced them with those: http://www.conrad.com/ce/fr/product/701351/Interrupteur-levier-2-x-OnOn-Goobay-KNX-2-250-VAC-3-A-permanent-1-pcs?ref=list

Edited by pascalh

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i replaced them  with 3 from Maplin  i now have 2 inputs per switch.   I also kept the motherboard in, this can be done  if you only use 2 12 posn switches as described. Personally id leave the board in Maintains comparability and reduces the wiring massively.  

The carbon look can be done easily and professionally by using the metal plate and using this as a template, cheap option and looks good.

Good Luck 

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Thanks for the replies guys.  So if I want to use one of these to say increase or decrease TC then I would need a momentary 3 way?  Does the amperage matter? I know nothing about electronics, I have a relative who is going to do the wiring and soldering for me, I will do the initial grunt work. I am going to keep the original pcb like vicsalt. I am undecided about the carbon look. I was hoping to not have to pull all the buttons out so thought I would just flatten out the dummy rotary knobs with a g clamp or similar, not sure how this would look though. I do like how vicsalt just used the carbon look at the front though.

Cheers

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Is this what I would need to do what I want? For example momentary on one way increase TC level, momentary on the other way decrease TC level.

 

Capture.PNG

Edited by F1Aussie
include picture

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Thanks for the replies guys.  So if I want to use one of these to say increase or decrease TC then I would need a momentary 3 way?  Does the amperage matter? I know nothing about electronics, I have a relative who is going to do the wiring and soldering for me, I will do the initial grunt work. I am going to keep the original pcb like vicsalt. I am undecided about the carbon look. I was hoping to not have to pull all the buttons out so thought I would just flatten out the dummy rotary knobs with a g clamp or similar, not sure how this would look though. I do like how vicsalt just used the carbon look at the front though.

Cheers

Yes momentary 3 way. There are not enough inputs on the PCB: the best is to connect all 6 inputs (3 switches x 2 inputs) to the dashboard.

Amperage does not matter (very low < 1 mA)

Flattening the dummy knobs won't work as the aluminum plate is very pliable and brittle. Just remove it: it's useless 

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I'm so pissed, my second display has now failed, has been working fine now no longer works, i have to believe there is some poor design work, its as if a small spike in power when   booting up PC blows the display. Waiting for feed back from Sim Display - 

 

I cannot be the only one with this issue

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I maintained original decals remove with stanly knife carefully.  Use hair dryer if needed to soften glue.   I did use some button ones from the template, print on sticker paper and used hole punch :) 

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On 21/2/2016 at 1:30 PM, vicsalt said:

I'm so pissed, my second display has now failed, has been working fine now no longer works, i have to believe there is some poor design work, its as if a small spike in power when   booting up PC blows the display. Waiting for feed back from Sim Display - 

 

I cannot be the only one with this issue

There must be something wrong with your computer ... You could protect the display with a 5.1V zener diode between +5V and ground

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Yep, he's waiting for new batch due Friday.   i don't understand as all was working well.  All I do is power on every day.  I'm not sure it has sufficient protection against power spike when powering up.   Both failures have been on initial power up:) 

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15 minutes ago, vicsalt said:

Yep, he's waiting for new batch due Friday.   i don't understand as all was working well.  All I do is power on every day.  I'm not sure it has sufficient protection against power spike when powering up.   Both failures have been on initial power up:) 

dz34-dscn3545.JPG

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