Thrustmaster F1 wheel mod with SIMR-F1 display, switches and encoders
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239 posts in this topic

On 12/06/2014 at 9:20 PM, GiuseppeMBG said:

Pascal dear .... I solved like in the video of eksimracing it all works ... I was wrong because I was setting the rfactor open with sli-max instead must be closed and then reopened

Glad to see you got it to work  ;)

Edited by pascalh

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On 12/06/2014 at 10:55 AM, alvirus said:

a little progress on my work ...

Nice  :)

It looks very clean and the fit seems perfect. I think you've done the most difficult part of the work: the "no return" part as you can't go back once the wheel is cut. The wiring can always be changed as needed afterwards.

On your picture I could see that you've built the insert for a working Ferrari knob. I would suggest you look at Giuseppe's method to fasten the knob onto the 12-way switch shaft. I think he will post his method within few days. 

Edited by pascalh

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On 16/06/2014 at 4:02 PM, mluduvice said:

Wow! It was sensational! A really fantastic and very detailed work here in this post. I'll try to do that with mine! Your tutorial will help me a lot. Thanks for sharing your work with us!

Thanks :)

I'm still following this thread: if you need help on any aspect of the mod please ask here

Edited by pascalh

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On 12/06/2014 at 11:24 PM, pascalh said:

Nice  :)

It looks very clean and the fit seems perfect. I think you've done the most difficult part of the work: the "no return" part as you can't go back once the wheel is cut. The wiring can always be changed as needed afterwards.

On your picture I could see that you've built the insert for a working Ferrari knob. I would suggest you look at Giuseppe's method to fasten the knob onto the 12-way switch shaft. I think he will post his method within few days. 

Alvirus, you can find Giuseppe's method to fasten the knob onto the 12-way switch shaft in the following post:

http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/13507-thrustmaster-ferrari-wheel-mbg-mod-v2/?p=134697

Edited by pascalh

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I am doing similar mod but my display is SIMR-DLX.

All went well expect i am having problems with my second rotary switch.

First it recognized as a button, that was caused by the red "case" for connector 2 has been installed the wrong way, so that the cables will point up when cable is connected as it should be, so my wires are reversed which is no a big deal.

 

Problem is that my second rotary switch wont recognize, switch 1 works after calibration but switch 2 wont work. I have tryed that does the switch word by soldering it to one by one to all other switch wires, it only works when it is connected to switch 1 wire.

I have checked everything, and i think that there is a firmware issue, or the display is faulty. 

Sometimes i am having problems saving switch setting with the manager software, and the test utility have said few times "Rotary switches are not connected" but they allways been connected.

 

Has anybody else had this same issue, or i am only one? Any hints to solve this problem?

 

Edit. Solved the problem, one rotary switch is faulty

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On 24/09/2014 at 8:14 PM, siffonen said:

I am doing similar mod but my display is SIMR-DLX.

All went well expect i am having problems with my second rotary switch.

First it recognized as a button, that was caused by the red "case" for connector 2 has been installed the wrong way, so that the cables will point up when cable is connected as it should be, so my wires are reversed which is no a big deal.

Problem is that my second rotary switch wont recognize, switch 1 works after calibration but switch 2 wont work. I have tryed that does the switch word by soldering it to one by one to all other switch wires, it only works when it is connected to switch 1 wire.

I have checked everything, and i think that there is a firmware issue, or the display is faulty. 

Sometimes i am having problems saving switch setting with the manager software, and the test utility have said few times "Rotary switches are not connected" but they allways been connected.

Has anybody else had this same issue, or i am only one? Any hints to solve this problem?

As I stated in the article, there is no risk of burning a device with a wrong connection EXCEPT if power and ground are inverted on the 12-way switches. I think these are not protected by a diode and are destroyed if power is reversed.

Edited by pascalh

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On 26/09/2014 at 9:20 PM, TheStreetzKing said:

this rim looks amazing, I dont care about the SLI I just want the middle encoders and the ferrari wheel to work. Anyone wanna take mine and mod it for me? LOL

If you don't need a display the fabrication part of the mod is much simpler as you only need to drill some holes (for encoders and 12-way switches) and cut an adapter plate for the ferrari knob. If you intend to use only up/down encoders, the stock PCB can be kept. If you intend to use 12-way switches, the stock PCB has to be cut or removed.

To connect the encoders/switches to your PCB you will need an interface board. One of the most used is the BBI-32 board (http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=86&zenid=236b2263f8e1145893207e72aceda61b). If you are familiar with embedded programming, I would suggest using a Teensy board (http://www.pjrc.com) as it allows more advanced features and combinations.

An example of how to program and wire a Teensy board for advanced functions can be found in my "G25 shifter interface with sequential/h-pattern/handbrake modes" writeup at http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/13189-diy-g25-shifter-interface-with-h-pattern-sequential-and-handbrake-modes/  

Edited by pascalh

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Thanks for that, Im not familiar with embedded programming at all lol, I would not mind cutting the stock pcb like you did, using the 12 position encoders would be ideal. Is the wiring the same as what you posted in the beginning? Im assuming I could just follow the instructions minus all the work for the display no?

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On 27/09/2014 at 9:57 PM, TheStreetzKing said:

Thanks for that, Im not familiar with embedded programming at all lol, I would not mind cutting the stock pcb like you did, using the 12 position encoders would be ideal. Is the wiring the same as what you posted in the beginning? Im assuming I could just follow the instructions minus all the work for the display no?

You are right: you can follow the instructions minus the chapter about display integration.

If you plan to use a BBI-32 board from Leo Bodnar (http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=205), the wiring is exactly that of my writeup for buttons and encoders. However, the 12-way switches are specific ( http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=86&products_id=207) and the wiring must be adapted accordingly. Be aware that SimDisplay 12-way switches and Bodnar 12-way switches are not compatible. 

If you keep the stock PCB and cut it, you only have to wire the added encoders and 12-way switches to the BBI-32 board. The stock buttons and encoders will then be available through the wheel base USB connection. The additional encoders and 12-way switches will only be available through an additional USB connection from the BBI-32 to the PC. I highly recommend using a coiled USB cable.

Edited by pascalh

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On 27/09/2014 at 9:57 PM, TheStreetzKing said:

Thanks for that, Im not familiar with embedded programming at all lol, I would not mind cutting the stock pcb like you did, using the 12 position encoders would be ideal. Is the wiring the same as what you posted in the beginning? Im assuming I could just follow the instructions minus all the work for the display no?

More information: I'm almost sure there is not enough room inside the wheel to keep the stock PCB and to add an additional BBI-32 (http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=205). So there are 2 options to integrate buttons and encoders without SLI:

  • Remove the stock PCB and wire the stock and additional buttons and encoders to a BBI-32
  • Keep the stock PCB and use a Teensy to interface the additional buttons and encoders. The Teensy board is so small that it easily fits inside the fake display of the wheel. The downside is that the corresponding software has to be written.
Edited by pascalh

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Impressive, I am about to buy this wheel and would love this mod, I do not think I have the time or patients to do this.

I'd pay the difference for a wheel like that. It is what the wheel is missing, shift lights are a must at least. 

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On 11/12/2014 at 11:42 PM, no96 said:

Impressive, I am about to buy this wheel and would love this mod, I do not think I have the time or patients to do this.

I'd pay the difference for a wheel like that. It is what the wheel is missing, shift lights are a must at least. 

I barely had enough time to mod this wheel for my son so I won't build another one.

But by following the write-up anyone should be able to mod his own wheel. The planning phase took much more time than the actual fabrication and wiring. Fabrication and wiring took around 30 hours for all 3 stages: it can be done in 10 days during spare time.

I will follow this thread and help/answer questions as much as possible.

Thanks for your interest   ;)

Edited by pascalh

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On 27/12/2014 at 5:54 AM, bubulol said:

is it possible to add alcantara texture on Thrust F1 wheel?

I have better handgrip with and it feels nice on hands while plastic huh  :ph34r:

Hi Bubulol,

It is possible, but I feel comfortable enough with the rubber grips of the F1 wheel to not mod them.

Have a look at http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/11959-tx-wheel-rim-alcantara-covered-mod/?hl=leather#entry115085 for an alcantara mod on a TX wheel. 

Edited by pascalh

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On 12/01/2015 at 4:23 PM, TKaira said:

hi guys, nice wheels. here is my mod with a dlx display.

Hi TKaira,

Really clean result  ;)

Have you kept the stock PCB ?

How many inputs of your SIMR-DLX are used ?

Edited by pascalh

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Hi pascalh,

 

I don't use the original pcb because of pc use only. Therefore I connected all directly to the DLX. My connections:

 

Connector 1:

1: GND daisy chained

2-3: DIF IN (encoder)

4-5: REV (encoder)

6-7: GRP (encoder)

8-9: BOOST (encoder)

10-11: CHRG (encoder)

12-15: DPADs (connected together) works not correctly at all

16-17: unused

18: 5V daisy chained

 

Connector 2:

1: K (button)

2: N (button)

3: PIT (button)

4: PUMP (button)

5: PL (button)

6: DRS (button)

7: 10+ (button)

8: 1- (button)

9: left shifter (button)

10: right shifter (button)

11-13: 3 way switches (as buttons with little pcb)

14: MIX (rotary switch)

15: TYRE (rotary switch)

16: Red LEDs

17: Yellow LED

18: Green LED

 

So you can see I nearly maxed out the possibilities of the DLX. In the next few days I will put on the sticker to the wheel. ;)

 

Edit: The wheel weights around 1019g without the curled usb cable

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On 12/01/2015 at 9:53 PM, TKaira said:

Hi pascalh,

I don't use the original pcb because of pc use only. Therefore I connected all directly to the DLX. My connections:

Connector 1:

1: GND daisy chained

2-3: DIF IN (encoder)

4-5: REV (encoder)

6-7: GRP (encoder)

8-9: BOOST (encoder)

10-11: CHRG (encoder)

12-15: DPADs (connected together) works not correctly at all

16-17: unused

18: 5V daisy chained

Connector 2:

1: K (button)

2: N (button)

3: PIT (button)

4: PUMP (button)

5: PL (button)

6: DRS (button)

7: 10+ (button)

8: 1- (button)

9: left shifter (button)

10: right shifter (button)

11-13: 3 way switches (as buttons with little pcb)

14: MIX (rotary switch)

15: TYRE (rotary switch)

16: Red LEDs

17: Yellow LED

18: Green LED

So you can see I nearly maxed out the possibilities of the DLX. In the next few days I will put on the sticker to the wheel. ;)

Edit: The wheel weights around 1019g without the curled usb cable

Thanks for the infos.

Interesting to see that wheel+SIMR-DLX+face plate is slightly lighter than wheel+SIMR-F1+enclosure+wheel cutout.

What happens with your D-Pads ?

Do they work when they are connected separately ?

Be aware that the common wire (that must be connected to GND) is the green wire !

Edited by pascalh

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