Thrustmaster F1 wheel mod with SIMR-F1 display, switches and encoders
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239 posts in this topic

On 20/04/2014 at 3:46 PM, GiuseppeMBG said:

Ok, I also add your account on youtube, you can just do something I'd be happy to see the whole thing :)

What do you want to see?

Edited by pascalh

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On 21/04/2014 at 1:01 AM, GiuseppeMBG said:

if you can solve the two on two separate buttons for quick display of information ... maybe do a nice video :)

I checked the scripts as promised and it works great  :D

You will find both modified files in the attached "Left right QI.zip" file:

  • Overwrite "iracing_common_scripts.lua" in "C:\SLIMax Manager\scripts\zdoc_scripts"
  • Overwrite "simracef1.lua" in "C:\SLIMax Manager\scripts"

To check if the QI2 button is working as expected:

  • Restart SliMax Manager
  • Under "advanced options..." open the "debug console"
  • Run an iRacing session
  • Depress the secondary QI2 button (set to button 19 in the script, can be changed in "iracing_common_scripts.lua" line 39)
  • The console should display "qi2 = 3" when depressed and "qi2 = 0" when released
  • If nothing is displayed check your button number with "joy.cpl"

To check the QI and QI2 displays:

  • Run an iRacing session
  • Depress the QI button: the F1QIFUNCTIONLEFT variable should be displayed on the left panel only
  • Depress the QI2 button: the F1QIFUNCTIONRIGHT variable should be displayed on the right panel only

You're set  ;)

Left right QI.zip

Edited by pascalh

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On 22/04/2014 at 1:07 PM, GiuseppeMBG said:

Pascal thanks .... :)

an information, but it only works with iRacing? 
 
if I want to make it work with Rfactor F1 or codmaster? even works?

Yes, as it is it only works for iRacing. But I think it should work for any simulation if you add the following code to "controls.lua" at the very beginning of the "controlsEvent" function:

if ctrlType == 1 and ctrlPos == 19 then 
  qi2 = value
  print("qi2 = "..qi2) -- Debug only
end

To avoid doing the calculation twice in iRacing, I would then recommend to revert to the base version of "iracing_common_scripts.lua"

I can't check this code on RFactor or Codemaster software as I only run iRacing, so please let me know if it works  ;)

Edited by pascalh

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Hi again Pascalh! I started my project following your guide!

please can you tell me where can i find the 2,54mm Female pin breakable. I can find the male one but not the female as in your photo:

 

1zocncm.jpg

 

Thanks a lot!

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On 08/05/2014 at 10:56 AM, alvirus said:

Hi again Pascalh! I started my project following your guide!

please can you tell me where can i find the 2,54mm Female pin breakable. I can find the male one but not the female as in your photo:

1zocncm.jpg

Thanks a lot!

I bought those a long time ago from Conrad and haven't kept the exact reference. Have a look at http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/733755/Barrette-simple-range-droite-femelle-1-x-20-ples-pas-254-mm-MPE-Garry-BL-10-020U?queryFromSuggest=true. It seems really close to the ones I used.

Although these header were advertised as "breakable", they didn't break as expected. I had to cut them with my dremel.

Thanks for your Interest  ;)

Edited by pascalh

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On 20/05/2014 at 7:44 PM, Mayaman said:

Wonderful, can I send you my F1 so you can mod it?

No, I barely had enough time to mod this wheel for my son.

But by following the write-up anyone should be able to mod his own wheel. I will follow this thread and help/answer questions as much as possible.

Thanks for your interest  ;)

Edited by pascalh

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With the license of Pascalh i had made a photoshop archive in which you can view or not differents layers in the wiring diagram. So if you want to see only the p.e the ground wire you only had to mark it and deselect the rest. I had added too the diagram for 4 external leds.

 

Hope this helps anyone who trying to imitate the masters of Pascalh. 

 

here´s the link to download it:

 

http://ge.tt/8e6kvih1/v/0?c

 

Thanks Pascalh!!

 

when i´ll have new advances in my project i´ll show you the photos :)

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On 22/05/2014 at 7:59 PM, alvirus said:

With the license of Pascalh i had made a photoshop archive in which you can view or not differents layers in the wiring diagram. So if you want to see only the p.e the ground wire you only had to mark it and deselect the rest. I had added too the diagram for 4 external leds.

Hope this helps anyone who trying to imitate the masters of Pascalh. 

here´s the link to download it:

http://ge.tt/8e6kvih1/v/0?c

Thanks Pascalh!!

when i´ll have new advances in my project i´ll show you the photos :)

Nice extension of my diagrams: I didn't think to use layers to clarify the routing.

If you need any additional document or picture, let me know and I will share them ASAP 

Edited by pascalh

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Hi Pascalh i have a new question:

 

The buttoms on the original Thrusmaster F1 addon have two wires, red and black, which of them is the ground wire one? or it´s indifferent ...  :oops:

 

Same with the D-pads, five wires (white, black, blue, red and green). In you diagram wires from connector 1 (brown, red, yellow, green and ground black). What wire connects to which?

 

p.e Original Red connects with brown on diagram. 

 

 

And shifters and thumb encoders too, please.

 

thanks. :-P

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On 23/05/2014 at 0:55 PM, alvirus said:

Hi Pascalh i have a new question:

The buttoms on the original Thrusmaster F1 addon have two wires, red and black, which of them is the ground wire one? or it´s indifferent ...  :oops:

Same with the D-pads, five wires (white, black, blue, red and green). In you diagram wires from connector 1 (brown, red, yellow, green and ground black). What wire connects to which?

p.e Original Red connects with brown on diagram. 

And shifters and thumb encoders too, please.

thanks. :-P

  • A button is just an open/closed switch. The wires can be inverted
  • A D-pad has a common wire connected to 4 switches. The common wire is the green one. It should be connected to ground (black wire in my diagram)
  • The left and right paddle shifters have 1 button each. The wires can be inverted
  • A thumb encoder is composed of 2 switches connected to a common. The center pad is the common and should be connected to ground

There is no risk in a wrong connection for all these input devices. But be careful with the 12-way switches, as a wrong connection of +5V or GND could destroy them as well as the SIMR-F1 display

Let me know ;)  

Edited by pascalh

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Thanks again!.

 

New questions  :-P : I know nothing about electronics and the only in welding is becouse my other hobby (plane plastic kits, soldering photoetched)

 

In your wiring loom photo i can barely see the ground wire one. I want to ask you what´s the method that you use to solder it.

 

Here is the Ground diagram: Two points p.e welding 1 and welding 2

 

 post-18958-0-41163000-1400878515_thumb.j

 

Do you solve it like this?:

- welding point 1

post-18958-0-24578400-1400878584_thumb.j

 

- welding point 2

post-18958-0-91511300-1400878636_thumb.j

 

Is that the correct way to solder them?

 

Thanks!

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On 23/05/2014 at 11:01 PM, alvirus said:

Thanks again!.

New questions  :-P : I know nothing about electronics and the only in welding is becouse my other hobby (plane plastic kits, soldering photoetched)

In your wiring loom photo i can barely see the ground wire one. I want to ask you what´s the method that you use to solder it.

Here is the Ground diagram: Two points p.e welding 1 and welding 2

 attachicon.gifGROUND WIRE.jpg

Do you solve it like this?:

- welding point 1

attachicon.gifWELDING 1.jpg

- welding point 2

attachicon.gifWELDING 2.jpg

Is that the correct way to solder them?

Thanks!

I used the daisy chain technique. The ground wire is chained from connector to connector: there will never be more than 2 wires soldered onto 1 connector pin, which is much easier and more reliable than soldering together several wires. On the downside, this technique uses more wire length and is therefore a little bit heavier

The following picture displays how to use this technique for welding point 1 and 2. On the picture you can clearly see that there is no welding at point 1 and 2 as all weldings are moved to connector pins

GND welding diagram.jpg

Edited by pascalh

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Wow i dont know that welding method!

Would you be so kind to write the rest of the welding? (the worst part is the final one, lot of wires) I would appreciate too much (would make my life much easier) 

 

Thanks Pascalh for your support!

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On 25/05/2014 at 11:16 AM, alvirus said:

will it be correct this way? or will you change somethig?

 

attachicon.gifwelding.JPG

 

Thanks!.

Yes, this is how I did it. I was preparing the exact same drawing for you when I saw your message  :lol:

Edited by pascalh

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Hello Pascal ...... if you can ... I need help because I'm really freaking out 
 
I'm trying to mapping the switch 12 position but I can not in any way
 
1055fgx.jpg
 
 
I'm following the example of Eksimracing
 
 
but it is true that you can do the mapping by inserting only 12 keys for each position on the switch number 6? 
 
because I did the welds on swtch 1, 2 and 3, but I was told that if I want 12 keys of 12 positions had to use the wire of the switch 6 
 
: (
 
thanks for help

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On 11/06/2014 at 1:32 PM, GiuseppeMBG said:

Hello Pascal ...... if you can ... I need help because I'm really freaking out 

I'm trying to mapping the switch 12 position but I can not in any way
 
1055fgx.jpg
 
I'm following the example of Eksimracing
 
 
but it is true that you can do the mapping by inserting only 12 keys for each position on the switch number 6? 
 
because I did the welds on swtch 1, 2 and 3, but I was told that if I want 12 keys of 12 positions had to use the wire of the switch 6 
 
: (
 
thanks for help

Hi Giuseppe,

Glad to see you're in the final stage of your new wheel mod  :)

Concerning your problem with more than 12 keypresses for each 12-way switch position, I haven't faced this kind of problems because I used my 12-way switches to control internal functions of the display (left and right panel variable to display ...), not to control the sim.

But anyway, could you elaborate a bit as I don't see how you could need that many keypresses for each position. Usually you would generate one keypress with modifiers such as CTRL-ALT-F5 for each position of the 12-way switch and define how this is interpreted in the sim. 

Edited by pascalh

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my job is here if you missed it :)

 

http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/13507-thrustmaster-ferrari-wheel-mbg-mod-v2/

 

then I was able to assign a key for each position of the menu du rFactor2 
 
but the problem is that every time you turn the knob the information takes 1 second .... as if I had to lengthen the delay 
 
if I press the button on your keyboard remains imprinted on the video information 
 
if I put the same information on a position of the switch takes 1 second and disappears ... 
 
you have know idea how to do it?

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On 11/06/2014 at 8:10 PM, GiuseppeMBG said:

my job is here if you missed it :)

http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/13507-thrustmaster-ferrari-wheel-mbg-mod-v2/

then I was able to assign a key for each position of the menu du rFactor2 

but the problem is that every time you turn the knob the information takes 1 second .... as if I had to lengthen the delay 
 
if I press the button on your keyboard remains imprinted on the video information 
 
if I put the same information on a position of the switch takes 1 second and disappears ... 
 
you have know idea how to do it?

Congratulations for your awesome wheel. My questions about it are in your thread.

I don't race rFactor2, so I can't really help you. The only advice I can give, is to try to seperate causes and effects: you could turn the knob with notepad having the focus, to determine if the 1 second delay is due to slow keystroke generation of SliMaxManager or slow interpretation of rFactor2.

Keep in mind that if you kept the usual 200ms delay between keystrokes, you will end up with a 1 second delay after only 5 keystrokes ...

Edited by pascalh

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