Custom Button Box for iRacing

[lopsided 345]

Ok, now that we have newly retired Jack (Catapult) show'n all of us "professional" retirees up I figured it was time to get to work on a little project that I'd been wanting to do.

 

I just recently started iRacing and my DSD Black Max is labeled for rFactor 2... hmmm, what to do? After using different labels overlaid to keep track of my button mapping I decided I wanted to design a button box exclusively for iRacing.

I have 13 buttons on my rim so I knew roughly what I wanted on the box:

 

Black Box Choice: Tires, Fuel, In Car, In Pit

HUD: Relative, Times, Delta (tinee button below Delta is for Ghost)

Pit Stop Adjustments: A little fuel, a lot of fuel, no tires, all tires

Set up choices: Bias, ARB, Mix (I labeled two buttons "AUX" as some cars use adjustments that are not available in others)

Volume: Spotter and Chat volume with mute, Channel changer

 

Another desire of mine was to use a variety of different buttons and layout that would help find the right button without looking. Rows of buttons have always been a problem for me and with the switches I had in mind you would be able to determine where your hand was by tactile alone. 

My little "corner" is also pretty dark and I wanted to mount LED lights directly on the box. I had been using a Velcro to attach a light on my Black Max which, while efficient, wasn't purty!

 

I felt I needed to use the same button box mount my husband had so lovingly welded for me that holds my Black Max so I decided to use a Hammond 1599 project box. It is the same dimensions as my Black Max - this permits me to exchange boxes instead of labels. 

Seriously... I just wanted a little project. I'm pretty sure hubby would gladly make me a new bracket.

 

I started collecting a variety of knobs, buttons and switches and ordered a controller board from Derek and set out to design a one-of-a-kind, custom button box for myself.

 

Decisions Decisions

 

This was by far the most difficult part to the project. I had a hard time figuring out just what I wanted but seemingly no problem changing my mind dozens of times. (And don't even try to tell me it's only us ladies, I've watched all of you guys change your rigs around a gazillion times!)

 

 

 

 

Using Graph Paper and some double sided tape I put the "grid" in place and tinkered with my spacing and layout. Making sure to not only plot the size of the mounting holes but also consider the size of the actual button to insure they did not land too close to one another.

 

 

 

I found a handy drawing template at our local craft shop which made quick work of calculating the drilling diameter for each button and switch without needing to use my calipers or ruler to measure. Oh yeah, and it's good for drawing too. :/

 

 

I used a sharp awl to mark each center point and took the box to my drill press. 

 

 

Drilled Box

 

I was very surprised my holes ended up so nice and straight as I did not use a fence, just the dimples made by the awl to seat the drill bit. There are some things in life that I will devote a lot of time to ensure they are as near to  perfect as I can get them... this was not one of them but I still took my time with it.

 

 

Test Fit

 

As you can imagine not every button would match a drill bit exactly (unless you've got the colossal set) so I used a reamer to give those of odd sizes a snug fit. 

 

 

Wiring

 

I purchased Derek Speare's "no matrix" controller board. With these you won't need to "chain link" all the ground lugs together, instead, the ground wire on each switch or button goes directly back to the board. 

 

I knew using this pin style board was going to be a very tight fit as the Molex like connectors on the end of the Arduino Jumper Wires stand fairly tall.  With all those wires and buttons vying for real estate inside the box I had serious doubts I'd be able to get this board to fit inside such a shallow case. (Sorta like trying to fit into my wedding gown today).

 

In order to eliminate as much wire "bulk" as I could I cut the length of the wire as short as I dared, wiring them one by one instead of wiring all the buttons and simply plugging them into the board (a.k.a. the faster, non-retiree way).  I also had to have room for those tall connectors to fit between the button rows as the 1.8" of box depth  would not permit them to go above any switch.

 

For my two volume rotary encoders I chose the CT3000-ND as these also incorporate a Push Button Switch in the encoder. 

So now my Chat volume knob can be pushed to mute/unmute chatting and my Spotter volume knob can be pushed to mute my lap times… something I like in practice hate during a race.

You wire the encoder as normal (center is ground, outers are leads) and treat the two upper lugs as you would a typical switch. Unfortunately these do not have your typical lugs with holes which make soldering a breeze. Instead they look suited for a breadboard or jumper wire. Unfortunately while they looked like a good fit the Jumper Wires did not grip the lugs securely so on a whim I decided to gently curl the end of each lug over to give my solder and wire a place to congregate. 

 

 

Configuring the DSD controller board to work with rotary encoders is also very easy… like I said before, the only thing difficult about the project was the planning. 

 Once you've got everything hooked up you can open your Game Controller>Properties and make note of which numbers light up when using the rotary encoders.  Download the Configuration Utility from Derek's site and check the box number that are rotary encoders, save your changes and you're in business. Simple and straight forward.

 

 

Another advantage to using the Arduino style Jumper Wires that I purchased (they come attached to each other) was separating them into pairs or triplets. It made things a little less hairy looking inside the box.

 

 

I was unable to locate the correct adhesive backed PCB standoffs that were used in my DSD Black Max so I had to steal them from it to finish my custom project… but I only had two and need four. I've got some more on order (don't want the screw in types) and hopefully these will be the right ones.

 

Graphic Overlay

 

I've had the idea for a while now to make the entire faceplate of my button box a single overlay. 

 

In the past I've used strips of individual rows of graphics to label the buttons. That made labels very easy to change but it wasn't the look I wanted. 

So instead of having to sticking individual labels beneath each button or row I printed the entire faceplate - background and text. I used a sheet of glossy photo paper which I laminated for durability and placed 3M double sided adhesive on the back (pickguard adhesive actually, as it comes in large sheets). This way the entire label/faceplate was peel and stick once I was done.

 

I can of course re-label this box if I want to in the future, however it would require me to remove the buttons. No de-soldering though, just unplugging.

Kinda helps control my issues with always changing my mind. lol

 

 

Laying out the words and icons were a bit more challenging as well since I'm limited software wise. I started with measurement but quickly felt my brain locking up. lol 

I decided to use a trick that has worked very well for me in the past... I took a straight on picture of the box with switches in place and then cropped and entered the Image Size in Photoshop to ensure it would scale properly. I won't say they are absolutely perfect but they are definitely close enough.

 

Branding My Box

 

Pseudo Motor Sports? yes indeedy. When I began league racing I needed a team name and as I am one of very few women in sim racing I thought the play on words as quite clever... a.k.a. PMS racing! lol

 

 

 

Light Her Up!

 

The corner I race in is quite dark and lights are necessary. While I liked the idea of using the LEDs "on a strip" I knew they would require an enclosure of sorts. 

 

 

I decided to butcher a gooseneck LED light I had and run the wires right thru the top. Mounting it was extremely easy... I drilled two small pin holes on each end of the light and I threaded wire thru to anchor it in place... think 'twist tie". The large button on the bottom right corner turns the light on and off.

 

 

 

I must say I like it. Not only is it unique but the layout of the buttons make finding the right one easy and quick. The different shapes, sizes and heights make it easy to locate your position… similar to the nibs on a keyboard. 

And while I have no need for another button box this has sparked my creative nature and makes me want to make another, just for kicks and giggles. Besides… I've got a lot of parts left over. 

 

 

Back to retirement.....

 

Bailey

[Ricky Davies 326]

This is just beautiful, clean and actually looks like its been taken out of a car. i think i might have to build a box i also have a DSD box labeled to rfactor. i might make one for iracing now.My symprojects PSU board needs some use so i might run that with leds and buttons. 

 

Is that black box an electrical junction box?

 

CHEERS!

[CaTaPulT 658]

WOW Bailey.

Your button box turned out absolutely beautiful, I love the faceplate you made for it.

This thing looks professionally done.

I also like the wide array of buttons used, as you mentioned, not only the position of the buttons but the feel of the various button surfaces would make it easy to find any one particular button. Very nice!

Excellent piece of work.

Take care

 

Regards:  >>>> Jack <<<<

[lopsided 345]

Rick, The forum removed my links again (replacing them with the %5c) thing so... not sure it will work but here it goes, the box is a plastic Hammond 1599KBK I purchased thru Digi-Key. As I mentioned though, it's a shallow box, a bit of a squeeze if using Derek's No Matrix pin style board so keep that in mind.

 

If I make another (got too many spare parts to not consider it) it will more than likely be with a box that has a flat cover screwed to the box which has the sides on it - instead of the cover having sides. You see a lot of that now. The advantage here is obviously drilling. It's much easier to lay a flat plate on the drill press and manipulate it around than it is this box as it has sides to contend with. I placed wood inside of the box to hold it steady and take the pressure off of the plastic while drilling. 

 

If I had more room in my corner I'd incorporate all my buttons into a center panel (where one would put an arm rest). I'd love to have them out to the side of the wheel but I've got other peripherals that need the spot more.

 

Jack, I thought I mentioned that.... "I am a professional". Duh. lol

The tripod buttons are particularly useful as you place your middle finger on the top, larger button and your index and ring finger easily find the add and subtract buttons below. 

Realizing that I could possibly change my mind one day, I put the square buttons directly under the add/subtract so they could be used as pairs... above/below. Hope that makes sense. 

 

There are 31 button functions on this box (board only permits 32) and it really doesn't look like it does it?

[Simon Maltby 185]

This is excellent.  I have to do something like this myself.

Thanks for the informative info.

[SUPERNOVADAVE 50]

I must say I am IMPRESSED !!!

That has got to be one of the best thought out and looking button box`s I have seen to date.

And that is coming from someone who is a perfectionist to the extreme.

Hell I have been a design engineer and fabricator for over forty years and I don`t think I would have done any better in a home environment.

VERY WELL DONE..

[Ricky Davies 326]

Thanks for the link, i'll also tell Darin about the link problem.

 

CHEERS!

[Gunstar 615]

That is awesome!!

 

Watch out DSD, there's a new sheriff in town!

[J.A.R.V.I.S. 282]

That looks really neat! If I didn't know it was DIY, I'd guess it a consumer product...

 

 

>Cheers!< J.A.R.V.I.S.

[rfernandes 21]

very nice indeed!

great work, i need to start thinking/planing mine, great inspiration

 

Cheers

[lopsided 345]

Thanks everyone.

 

Supernova... you have my condolences. lol Being a perfectionist is both a blessing and a curse.

[Simon Maltby 185]

Just ordered the No Matrix PCB

Trying to understand what buttons / switches you have used and convert them to things that are available in the UK.

Found the cables on Ebay

 

I don't want to copy your box exactly, but its so good that I will use it as a base, if you don't mind?

[PaulG 79]

Awesome layout. Love how you prioritized a unique layout for tactile intuitiveness.

 

I recently made this suggestion in a DSD thread (on another website). Something that would be suitable for VR when the consumer Oculus Rift releases. Something like your layout could be navigated much easier in VR. So I applaud your outside the box thinking on this.

[Paul Heijmans 226]

Derek just called ,he,s jealous , and when i think of it, me too  great job bailey and tnx for the info

[lopsided 345]

Just ordered the No Matrix PCB

Trying to understand what buttons / switches you have used and convert them to things that are available in the UK.

Found the cables on Ebay

 

I don't want to copy your box exactly, but its so good that I will use it as a base, if you don't mind?

 

Wow, looks like I lit a fire under you ah? lol

 

Here's some pointers on switches, just in case you or someone else needs help...

 

These pushbuttons are Momentary N.O. switches. Momentary would mean they spring back into position instead of staying down when released and that's what you want for a button box. N.O. means Normally Open. When a circuit is open it is broken... that way it's activated (closed/working) when pushed. Wiring these are easy. Either lug can be ground and as long as you connect one of those wires to the outer edge pin (ground) on Derek's board and one on the inner. Extremely simple.

 

All of the toggles I use are SPDT = Single Pole, Dual Throw... these would have 3 lugs/hookups. They obviously do the job of 2 push button switches. You can however use a DPDT =Dual Pole, Dual Throw switch if that's all you can find. It will have 6 lugs, so they can be a little more bulky. Simply use 3 lugs on one side and it will function exactly the same as the SPDT switch.

The ground wire is connected to the center lug and wired to the outer pin on the PCB.

 

The rotary's are Rotary Encoders, not rotary switches. An encoder will spin endlessly in either direction, each turn to the right would equal one button push - the same button being pushed repeatedly that is. 

 

Fortunately iRacing has mappable functions which make great use of rotary encoders. Any time a game includes mappable functions for Add and Subtract or Next and Previous a rotary encoder is a great choice. But take a game like Race 07 or rFactor 1/2... while I could use a rotary in iRacing to cycle thru the Black Boxes (by mapping it for Next & Previous) rFactor does not have it set up that way. Hope that's not too confusing. All you need to know is one turn to the right = one button push.

 

A Rotary Switch is entirely different. Each position of the switch is mapped to a particular function/key. So let's say it's in the 3 o'clock position... that position would always equal a particular button being pushed. When turned - position 1 might equal F1, position 2 might equal M (for Mirror) etc. I did not use rotary switches with this box.

 

When calculating what buttons you want bare in mind the controller board is limited to 32 functions, not 32 buttons (well, unless you only used SPST -or single function- switches).

 

A push button = 1

A two way toggle = 2

A rotary encoder = 2

The rotary encoder w/ switch = 3

 

Using 5 rotary encoders would mean you've taken up 10 of your 32 available functions. Another nice feature of rotary encoders and toggles is obviously the fact that you get two functions using less real estate. 

 

Hope that helps.

Bailey

[lopsided 345]

On 2/3/2014 at 0:53 PM, PaulG said:

Awesome layout. Love how you prioritized a unique layout for tactile intuitiveness.

 

I recently made this suggestion in a DSD thread (on another website). Something that would be suitable for VR when the consumer Oculus Rift releases. Something like your layout could be navigated much easier in VR. So I applaud your outside the box thinking on this.

 

Paul, Thanks, that's what I was aiming for. In the past I created lots of colorful labels and even swapped some of the black buttons for colors to help me find buttons easier. Yah, I'm showing my age! lol

 

 

 

It's definitely helpful but I just wanted to try something different and, while I'm probably not nearly as hung up on realism as many here, I wanted it to look a little less like a rainbow box and a bit more race-like. Shucks, it's the same reason I can't stop drooling over Sam Maxwell's wheels. lol

When driving in a real car I can slide my hand over the armrest and easily find the PW switch etc. I like that and wanted to replicate it as best as I could.

 

Bailey

[lopsided 345]

Derek just called ,he,s jealous , and when i think of it, me too  great job bailey and tnx for the info

 

You guys better not get me in trouble with Derek. He's been so awesome to me and I've bought a couple of boxes from him ( I will never forget the one with the big round lighted Blue Button!, it was so pretty. Gave it to a buddy when I upgraded to the Black Max) I also bought his awesome Sequential shifter, gate shifter plates and now the controller board. He makes top notch components and does so at a very reasonable price.

 

I can tell you from my receipts, a DIY button box is for someone who wants to make something unique/custom, not someone looking to save money. lol You'd need to buy in bulk and even then, I'd never make it myself if I wanted something that was already assembled... too much time, not enough savings.

[Simon Maltby 185]

Thank you.  The switch info is a great help.

This is going to be great fun.

 

I'm toying with making a full facia over my wheel and placing the switches on that.

Maybe that should be phase two and I should just make a box first as this will be my first switch box.

 

You have me thinking all kind of crazy ideas, but I should focus on practicality first.

[lopsided 345]

You know razorSimon when I get an idea I look at a lot of pictures and save those I like. It helps feed creativity. When I wanted to build my 8020 rig I Googled every phrase I could think of that might yield pictures of sim rigs made from 8020. And even though I went a much simpler, compact route it still gave me ideas.

 

When I started thinking about the button box I started looking at pictures of real race car dashes. Sadly that has planted another seed in my head. lol You have no idea how lucky my husband is that my rig is confined to a small space!! One can find seemingly endless ways to add to their rigs! I'm certain my husband would start charging for his labor. lol

 

You may have access to some even cooler buttons in the UK. I know I started looking at electronic supply sites and bookmarking everything that had bits and pieces that interested me. I almost used a momentary rocker switch for the seat (FOV) but reasoned that cutting rectangular holes instead of drilling round one's would add to the effort.

 

 

Bailey

[Ricky Davies 326]

I bought some push buttons off ebay for my PRO RACE display, a pack of 5 for around £2.00. Anyone from the UK looking for buttons ebay is a good place to get some cheap packs. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313&_nkw=push+buttons+&_sacat=0&_from=R40

 

CHEERS! LD

[FannBlade 188]

WOW! Nice job. Love the printed labels,I will need to try that on mine.

Very nice layout of the buttons....so professional looking.

[lopsided 345]

Thanks FannBlade, all you need is more projects. lol

[Simon Maltby 185]

I have everything ordered - I think.

 

DSD 32 Controller £21

ABS Project box - 197x113x64 £6.50 (Slightly smaller and deeper than yours)

40 wire female - Female ribbon cable £2.36

3 small push buttons in red £1.69

3 small push buttons in yellow £1.69

3 small push buttons in black £1.69

5 Square push buttons in Green £4.10

5 Square push buttons in Red £4.10

10 Rotary Encoders £4.19

10 Rotary Encoders with push £3.22

2 rocker switches £2.24

4 soft touch knobs with yellow pointer £1.12

4 soft touch knobs with white pointer £1.26

4 soft touch knobs with red pointer £1.09

Postage costs £1.95

 

Total spend: £58.20 or about $96 USD

 

No idea about layout yet, but have plenty of switches (way too many in fact) so should have plenty of options.

 

I would say the cost is slightly cheaper than buying a ready made panel, but this is much more fun and means the switches can go where I want them.

 

I plan on having some buttons on the top side of the box as well as the front, which is why I have gone for a smaller but deeper box than yours.  My space is a little restricted and this will hopefully make best use of a smaller box.

[J.A.R.V.I.S. 282]

Keep us updated! Also, what software will you be using for getting the button box work on your PC?

 

 

>Cheers!< J.A.R.V.I.S.

[Simon Maltby 185]

The DSD 32 Button Controller has software with it (well on their website).

As I understand it, It will just been seen as a Game Device in Windows and hopefully be accessible within the various games so I can just allocate buttons to game functions.

 

This is all new to me and that rather adds to the fun.

 

Going to take awhile for the Board and some of the bits to arrive as I'm in the UK and the Board comes from the US plus one lot of switches I ordered are coming from HK.