DSD Hydraulic Handbrake DIY Project
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126 posts in this topic

Is there any cheaper Alternative then the leobodnar and the dsd Controller?

 

Not that I am aware of, those are about the cheapest I can find.

 

Can you please explain to me why i need a 1000 psi pressure Sensor?

 

Because the handbrake can pull over 500 PSI. I have mine calibrated at around 450 PSI but if I pull on it really have I can get it up to around the 600-700 PSI range. If you went for a 500 PSI then you could max out the sensor if you pull the handbrake too hard, the 1000 PSI is the perfect size.

Because of the mechanical advantage of the handbrake lever and the non-compressablity of the brake fluid you are able to produce some really high pressures, this is why you see brake lines that are rated for 3,000 PSI. If you were to slam on your foot brake in a road car you could be pulling around 1,200 to 1,500 PSI. race cars are even higher.

It takes a lot of force to stop a car so there is a ton of pressure in that brake system.

 

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6 hours ago, Avenga76 said:

Is there any cheaper Alternative then the leobodnar and the dsd Controller?

 

Not that I am aware of, those are about the cheapest I can find.

 

Can you please explain to me why i need a 1000 psi pressure Sensor?

 

Because the handbrake can pull over 500 PSI. I have mine calibrated at around 450 PSI but if I pull on it really have I can get it up to around the 600-700 PSI range. If you went for a 500 PSI then you could max out the sensor if you pull the handbrake too hard, the 1000 PSI is the perfect size.

Because of the mechanical advantage of the handbrake lever and the non-compressablity of the brake fluid you are able to produce some really high pressures, this is why you see brake lines that are rated for 3,000 PSI. If you were to slam on your foot brake in a road car you could be pulling around 1,200 to 1,500 PSI. race cars are even higher.

It takes a lot of force to stop a car so there is a ton of pressure in that brake system.

 

So i've decided to Go with a arduino uno Rev 3:)

But the pressure Sensor has Minimum of 0,5 v and Maximum of 4,5 v

The arduino says recommend es voltage 7-12 v. Does that Matter or do i need to buy a other Controller Board?

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No, you are miss reading that. The 7-12V they are talking about as the input voltage is only if you need to run an external power supply, like a DC power pack. For this project you are fine to power it off the USB port. The operating voltage of the Arduino is 5V

The Arduino uses 5V for it's analog ports. I use them for my DIY motion and wind simulator.

Basically you want to wire it up like this 

pressure_sensor_to_Arduino.jpg

The Arduino will send 5V to the pressure sensor and it will return a value of 0.5-4.5V which the Arduino will read off it's analog input. So 0 psi outputs 0.5V, 500 psi outputs 2.5V, 1000 psi outputs 4.5V

 

 

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8 hours ago, Avenga76 said:

No, you are miss reading that. The 7-12V they are talking about as the input voltage is only if you need to run an external power supply, like a DC power pack. For this project you are fine to power it off the USB port. The operating voltage of the Arduino is 5V

The Arduino uses 5V for it's analog ports. I use them for my DIY motion and wind simulator.

Basically you want to wire it up like this 

pressure_sensor_to_Arduino.jpg

The Arduino will send 5V to the pressure sensor and it will return a value of 0.5-4.5V which the Arduino will read off it's analog input. So 0 psi outputs 0.5V, 500 psi outputs 2.5V, 1000 psi outputs 4.5V

 

 

Ok thanks so much for everything:)

Gonna buy the stuff today

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14 hours ago, Avenga76 said:

No, you are miss reading that. The 7-12V they are talking about as the input voltage is only if you need to run an external power supply, like a DC power pack. For this project you are fine to power it off the USB port. The operating voltage of the Arduino is 5V

The Arduino uses 5V for it's analog ports. I use them for my DIY motion and wind simulator.

Basically you want to wire it up like this 

pressure_sensor_to_Arduino.jpg

The Arduino will send 5V to the pressure sensor and it will return a value of 0.5-4.5V which the Arduino will read off it's analog input. So 0 psi outputs 0.5V, 500 psi outputs 2.5V, 1000 psi outputs 4.5V

 

 

off topic question:

how can i connect this pedal: http://www.ebay.de/itm/SPARE-RECHANGE-POUR-LOGITECH-G27-SPARE-PEDALE-PEDAL-BREAK-FREIN-/121903716374?hash=item1c62071816:g:8bMAAOSwQYZWzNH-

to a arduino?

which cables do i need?

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Yup, it is just a POTs so it will work the same as the pressure sensor. Just connect the GND and 5V to both the pedal and the pressure sensor then run the analog signal to A0 and A1. You can have up to 6 analog inputs.

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On 5.9.2016 at 1:10 AM, Avenga76 said:

Yup, it is just a POTs so it will work the same as the pressure sensor. Just connect the GND and 5V to both the pedal and the pressure sensor then run the analog signal to A0 and A1. You can have up to 6 analog inputs.

Hey:) so All my Parts arrived.

I put everything together and there are No leaks which is good:) but i cant pull the lever Back far why is that ?Please tell me what i need to do to be able to pull the lever Back Further

Thanks in advance

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Are you using a slave cylinder?

If so then put softer rubbers.

If not then you are sort of out of luck due to the uncompressabilty of brake fluid I mentioned before. You could try letting some air in to the system, like badly bleed them. 

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Yeah you need to play around with the rubbers until you get the feel and travel you are after, try fewer rubbers then more rubbers to compare, try different types of harder and softer rubbers and add washer spacers etc.

Edited by UNKLE

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Are you using a slave cylinder?

If so then put softer rubbers.

If not then you are sort of out of luck due to the uncompressabilty of brake fluid I mentioned before. You could try letting some air in to the system, like badly bleed them. 

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13 hours ago, Avenga76 said:

Are you using a slave cylinder?

If so then put softer rubbers.

If not then you are sort of out of luck due to the uncompressabilty of brake fluid I mentioned before. You could try letting some air in to the system, like badly bleed them. 

So what Fluid do i need?

I dont have a Slave cylinder

Edited by HowtoDrift

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Just normal DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid.

Without the slave cylinder you aren't going to have that much movement because the brake fluid can't compress. It will just start building up pressure straight away. The slave cylinder and rubber bumpers are designed to give you a bit of squish and extra movement.

As I said before, maybe try adding a little air back in to the system when you bleed it. Not sure how well it will work but it might make it less stiff. 

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On 20.9.2016 at 11:28 PM, Avenga76 said:

Are you using a slave cylinder?

If so then put softer rubbers.

If not then you are sort of out of luck due to the uncompressabilty of brake fluid I mentioned before. You could try letting some air in to the system, like badly bleed them. 

Hey so im having trouble with the programming:(

 

if i look at the raw data of the sensor: if i dont pull the lever its at 95 and if i pull it its at 130... i programmed it so the minimum is 95 and the maximum 130 but somehow it doesnt work. i think the raw data is not consistant so i changes all the time.. its kind of hard to explain it but i hope you understand what i mean and can help me out:D

 

Edit: already got the arduino working as a controller:D

Edited by HowtoDrift

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On 21.9.2016 at 2:32 PM, Avenga76 said:

Just normal DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid.

Without the slave cylinder you aren't going to have that much movement because the brake fluid can't compress. It will just start building up pressure straight away. The slave cylinder and rubber bumpers are designed to give you a bit of squish and extra movement.

As I said before, maybe try adding a little air back in to the system when you bleed it. Not sure how well it will work but it might make it less stiff. 

Hey so if I would buy the leobodnar 12 Bit Controller do i just have to calibrate it and then it works? Because Theres always some pressure on the pressure sensor right? Do you just have to calibrate it in the Controller settings?

 

Thanks in advance

Edited by HowtoDrift

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You calibrating it not because of "some pressure" but because of "flowing ground". In theory GND is 0 but practical because of all interference there is some electrical potential different from zero i.e. +/- 0.3V and measured voltage is difference between two potentials. In our example let it be lowest potential on sensor which is 0.5V that means measured voltage on sensor will be fluctuating between 0.2V and 0.8V. Calibration in this case will be setting level "zero" above 0.8V that in any case released handbrake will show value zero. I am using mmjoy and during calibration process i can set max value that will be top cap above which all value will be recognised as 100%. It is useful because some games require pull handbrake to full at start and electrical fluctuations doesn't restrict only to GND electric potential and my sensor at maximum pull reaches values between 945 - 986 which is about 93-97% of range. I have never seen value 1023 (100% of 10bit controller) on my handbrake.

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Anyone have any issues with this?  I bought the DSD 12 bit controller and did the DSD DIY. Plugged it in and it fluctuates around 190% with no pull on the brake lever. When you pull it it goes to above 300%. Cant even get it to register in Assetto Corsa. Bled it several times already, no air comes out.

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hi folks

my Hand brake project start slowly and the first part have arrived :-) hope the brakeline, the sensor and the oil tank arrives very soon too

first the main question: with which e brake should i go?
AeVM0kJ.jpg
just kidding ;-) the small brake is a left over from my SQ shifter project!

will build my e brake with an old GM car caliper, an 1000 psi sensor and a ardurino micro pro as brain....

the whole brake will be red. even the stainless brake lines xD the lines are 10 mm banjos and the main threading will be M10. its quite a pain with the whole adapters and the inch threads...
looking forward to it... this red beast is planed since the release of dirt rally :-/ but i never came to... so the time for it is now ;-)

Edited by BattleGear

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its alive!!! the brake in rev1 in finish and works propper. its quite much work to assamble that. think i spend 8 hours to build this puppy.

its still some to do and to tweek: mount the caliper to the rig, eliminate the play in the brake handle, connect the SQ shifter to the arduino, an adruino case with 3.5 audio jacks... so on

for my taste is the car caliper not so suitable!!! it needs a lot of juice and a long stroke to get enougth pressure to the sensor and its not so hard to pull that i thourght :-(
think i will change to the wilwood pull cylinder when i cant tweek it to my likeing...

the ardurino micro pro works really good and makes no problems...

and now a couple pics:
n5ZuKwA.jpg

 

ChMrWCs.jpg

 

AqsCHzT.jpg

 

OwlFQhF.jpg

 

want to share my arduino sketch with you if you need it.. was a long enougth theme in this thread... its a customized sketch from heronimus.


its for one axis (throttle) and 9 buttons
its configured to Analog pin A0 and the buttons from digital pin 2 to 10...

to smoothing the signal of the axis (that the signal stays on 0 and not flowting all around) solder a 10k ohm resistor between the A0 and a Ground pin. this will help a lot ;-)

here you can download the Sketch and take a view in the readme!!!

http://www.mediafire.com/?nrhlsbu68uy62

the code are:

// Simple example application that shows how to read four Arduino
// digital pins and map them to the USB Joystick library.
//
// Ground digital pins 9, 10, 11, and 12 to press the joystick
// buttons 0, 1, 2, and 3.
//
// NOTE: This sketch file is for use with Arduino Leonardo and
//       Arduino Micro only.
//
// by Matthew Heironimus
// 2015-11-20
//--------------------------------------------------------------------

#include <Joystick.h>

Joystick_ Joystick;

 

//Eingang deklarieren
int sensorValue_accel = 0;
//Eingang deklarieren

 

void setup() {
  // Initialize Button Pins
  pinMode(2, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(3, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(4, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(5, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(6, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(7, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(8, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(9, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(10, INPUT_PULLUP);

//Eingang einmalig auf 0 setzen
  sensorValue_accel = 0;
//Eingang einmalig auf 0 setzen
 
  // Initialize Joystick Library
  Joystick.begin();
}

// Constant that maps the phyical pin to the joystick button.
const int pinToButtonMap = 2;

// Last state of the button
int lastButtonState[10] = {0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0};

void loop() {

  //Variable mit aktuellem Spannungswert füllen
  sensorValue_accel = analogRead(A0);
  //Variable mit aktuellem Spannungswert füllen

  //Acceleration mit Wert aus sensorValue_accel (analogRead(A0) füllen
  Joystick.setThrottle(sensorValue_accel);
  //Acceleration mit Wert aus sensorValue_accel (analogRead(A0) füllen

 
  // Read pin values
  for (int index = 0; index < 9; index++)
  {
    int currentButtonState = !digitalRead(index + pinToButtonMap);
    if (currentButtonState != lastButtonState[index])
    {
      Joystick.setButton(index, currentButtonState);
      lastButtonState[index] = currentButtonState;
    }
  }

  delay(50);
}
 

 

Edited by BattleGear

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Great work, thanks for posting.  Regarding eliminating play in the brake handle.  This model of brake has tons of play, mine is the same way.  I don't notice much in actual use, but would prefer a tighter tolerance on all the moving points.  The brake uses plastic bushings, and they're undersized, which leads to the play.  I couldn't find a good way of fixing this.  If you do, please let us know how you did it.  I'd like to do the same.

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it gets a bit better if you do replace the pin trough a screw and lock the upper angle joint! then only the lower hinge wiggle.
you need:
1 x M8 x 50 screw Din912 - ISO 4762

2 x M8 washers Din125 - ISO 7089

1 x M8 Self locking nut or just a normal

just simple remove it, put the new one in, set your angle and pull it tight^^

 


the pin of the lower joint is flowting all the time around... it helps a bit to look it with using 2 washers with a bigger outside diameter that the pin cant wiggle...

2 x M5 washers Din 9021 - ISO7093

or add some bigger M6 behind the stock one that the washer not only touch the pin rather touches the frame...

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I'm in the process of making this hand brake but i want to incorporate button box into the same board so i don't have wasted inputs or an extra peripheral input. I've designed a button box panel i want to use and currently i have 27 push buttons 5 rotary encoders, 6 on/off/on toggles, and 3 on/off switches. Is there a board out there that would accommodate all of those functions or would i need to reduce the number or split the project up? I could stand to lose 4 push buttons and maybe 2 toggles  but i would like the rest to stay in tact. Attached is a picture for reference. The bottom right blue circle is a USB port, the top left is a power button for LED's and the blue cover switch is power to the USB port so those aren't tying up inputs at all. I could do away with maybe 1 button off each row on the top right and maybe 1-2 toggles on the bottom but the rotary encoders i want to stay in tact. I need a board that i can wire in the pressure transducer, 5 rotary encoders and the push buttons/toggles. Would the DSD 12 bit board work or would i need something bigger?

bbox.png

Edited by Atomsk

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nice project dude! but the dsd 12 bit is way to small! buttons 27 + 5 rotory (1 rotory are 3 buttons in one) + 6 momentary toggle (are 12 buttons) + 3 on / off (are 6 buttons) = are 60 buttons when i calculated right... you need 64 button chip from derek... and now the problem: it has no input for an axis! so you need to go definitly with 2 controller... have no idea how you can make it work with 1 chip.

my handbrake moves forward :-)
mounted the caliper to the rig and preloaded the hydraulic system with a pretty ugly and dirty solution but it works... now it feels great! the throw is around 3 cm and is really heavy to pull :-) like i prefer^^ so i not switch to the clutch cylinder and stay with my caliper!
this morning i designed a custom arduino case and printed it... its not finish yet. still need a the screws and 4 x 3.5mm audio jacks and a couple cables to connect everything the shifter to it. but i make now a break with tinkering and enjoy dirt rally!

it looks so insane but i love it!!!

rC5caP1.jpg

 

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yes. the upper is locked like i wrote but on the lower i just must work. i added a m10 washer with 2mm but its to wide. have to buy a m10 washer with 0.5mm width that i can figure it out... and befor i forgot i screwed the master cylinder on the upper hole with a longer screw tight. now it dont seesaw and it improves the feeling too!

just do the mods ive wrote. its a good start to get a more stable feel of the brake. will keep you uptodate
 

Edited by BattleGear

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