DSD Hydraulic Handbrake DIY Project
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126 posts in this topic

For anyone else that is interested in making their own i have put together a list of parts that i used along with prices and where purchased.It works out at about £175 all up including the USB controller.

As you can see I had to add a Button Box with hat switch to mine as i use my own wheel that doesn't have buttons on it and i didn't fancy using the keyboard to navigate menus.As it runs from the same USB controller it was simply as case of wiring everything into the controller.Works a treat.

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Handbrake Parts List.jpg

Edited by inky99

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I was working on my handbrake last night, I added the brake fluid and didn't get any leaks and the bushings are moving when I pull on the handbrake hurrah!.

Trying to completely eliminate flex in the base, the handbrake is surprisingly stiffer than what I thought it would be, but in a good way :-)

I was thinking too of adding some buttons, since it's a shame the DSD board isn't being put to more use.  But honestly I have more than enough buttons than I need.  I'll probably end up connect my ChampCar sequential shifter to it once I get to work on that project.

Nice job BTW Inky

 

Edited by UNKLE

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Great post, thanks!

Thanks sebj. I hope it helps some people out.

 

I was thinking too of adding some buttons, since it's a shame the DSD board isn't being put to more use.  But honestly I have more than enough buttons than I need.  I'll probably end up connect my ChampCar sequential shifter to it once I get to work on that project.

Nice job BTW Inky

 

I know what you mean about not utilising the board to its full capacity. The LeoBodnar boards are amazing.I have just recently finished making myself a button box with another one.It has 16 buttons,4 toggle switches,2 rotary encoders,an analogue stick and an 8way hat switch.And there is still room to add more if needed.Thanks also for your kind words.

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Edited by inky99

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Could inky or anyone else please link me to a similar type of clamp he is using under the aluminium base?

guqgGCI.png

Is there another one on the other side?

Or if you have any suggestions on how to clamp one of these babies to a desk, I would love to know


I'm about to embark on my DIY Hydraulic Brake adventure and this is actually the one part I am struggling with! :-D

So far the cost of parts will be under 100 euro, going to try and do it as a cheap as possible but including the slave cylinder.

Thanks for your time,
Waveform.

 

Edited by Waveform

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18 hours ago, Waveform said:

Could inky or anyone else please link me to a similar type of clamp he is using under the aluminium base?

guqgGCI.png

Is there another one on the other side?

Or if you have any suggestions on how to clamp one of these babies to a desk, I would love to know


I'm about to embark on my DIY Hydraulic Brake adventure and this is actually the one part I am struggling with! :-D

So far the cost of parts will be under 100 euro, going to try and do it as a cheap as possible but including the slave cylinder.

Thanks for your time,
Waveform.

 

Hi Waveform,

I really struggled to find a decent clamp and this was the best i could find but to be honest it isn't really strong enough as mine was flexing when i pulled the handbrake hard.

 

In the end i bolted a piece of aluminium box section under my desk(50mmX50mm,4mm thick) with a smaller section(40mmX40mm,4mm thick) bolted to the handbrake that simply slides into the larger one on my desk.I then bought an M8 thumbscrew and threaded the larger box section so that it could be tightened in place.

Works a treat and is super solid, so solid infact that i had to bracket my desk to the wall to stop me from pulling it over.Hope this helps.

 

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Edited by inky99

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I'm finding the mounting solution with zero flex and unwanted movement the hardest part of this build for my rig.  I'm on my third attempt now, just one further attempt away from placing the entire rig on a wooden platform and drilling the floor standing handbrake directly into the platform.

Edited by UNKLE

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Thanks a lot for the reply inky!

So far I have the electronics side down, I'll be using a cheap and cheerful Arduino - Leonardo microcontroller which has 10-bit resolution.

Tested it with a potentiometer and its working as an axis in game controller properties.

I can also upgrade my G29 pedals from 8-bit resolution to 10-bit using the Leonardo!

I'm just waiting on some updated code from a helpful Sim Racer to remove the deadzones that exist and invert each axis.

I plan on doing a step by step guide for the handbrake so other people can benefit, I'm totally new to the mechanics of car parts but will get there hopefully!

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Hydraulics - done. Tomorrow Electronics and bleeding. Everything in nice black shades closed in aluminium box. Most tricki part was to figure how to bleed hydraulics with no access to bleeding screw, that's why I made hole on top which will be caped with black M12 screw (I'm waiting for mail pack). Braking plate was made as composite aluminium-rubber-aluminium. It is firm almost like full aluminium plate but should give that little bit of compression like with long braking hoses. Tomorrow I will confirm does it work like expected.

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@Unkle did u use the howe clutch cylinder or is it the wilwood and what for a cirtuit did u use???

 

knows some of you where i can order the cylinder over in europe? cant find this stupid pull style slave cylinder only in the states... -.-

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3 hours ago, BattleGear said:

@Unkle did u use the howe clutch cylinder or is it the wilwood and what for a cirtuit did u use???

 

knows some of you where i can order the cylinder over in europe? cant find this stupid pull style slave cylinder only in the states... -.-

It's a WilWood "Style" got it for $40 off this eBay seller: http://www.ebay.com/usr/motorsportswarehousedirect?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754 They don't seem to have them in stock.

I got the 12bit standard board from Derek http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/12-bit-controllers.html

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On 15/4/2016 at 0:26 AM, Tofi said:

Hydraulics - done. Tomorrow Electronics and bleeding. Everything in nice black shades closed in aluminium box. Most tricki part was to figure how to bleed hydraulics with no access to bleeding screw, that's why I made hole on top which will be caped with black M12 screw (I'm waiting for mail pack). Braking plate was made as composite aluminium-rubber-aluminium. It is firm almost like full aluminium plate but should give that little bit of compression like with long braking hoses. Tomorrow I will confirm does it work like expected.

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2016-04-15 23.08.53.jpg

You previously talked about doing the eletronics with an arduino. Could you share some insights with the setup? and maybe some code?

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I used arduino leonardo and MMjoy2. It was working perfectly. Was because had some leaks and now handbrake covers with dust on shelf because of insufficient time for second try. This time i had bought ticker teflon tape. Can anyone tell how to perfectly build the hoses without leaks? On youtube are tutorials only for some thick hoses and fittings for AN3 are slightly different from them. should I put some ptfe tape? in which places?

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1 hour ago, Tofi said:

I used arduino leonardo and MMjoy2. It was working perfectly. Was because had some leaks and now handbrake covers with dust on shelf because of insufficient time for second try. This time i had bought ticker teflon tape. Can anyone tell how to perfectly build the hoses without leaks? On youtube are tutorials only for some thick hoses and fittings for AN3 are slightly different from them. should I put some ptfe tape? in which places?

I would suggest using ptfe tape on all threads. I never had a single leak on any of my connections. Also don't over tighten anything as that is probably the most common mistake, just tweak them up tight and you should be fine.

Edited by inky99

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I had 3 leaks. One from hose and two from ptfe sealed threads. I'm not worry about threads because thy are easy to seal. Issue is how to seal hose connector.

 

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Inky, I really like your build. The "cable management" of the hoses really sold me. I ordered parts. 

Could you post a few more pics that show how you mounted the slave cylinder? 

Thanks.

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On 7/5/2016 at 0:05 PM, Tofi said:

I used arduino leonardo and MMjoy2. It was working perfectly. Was because had some leaks and now handbrake covers with dust on shelf because of insufficient time for second try. This time i had bought ticker teflon tape. Can anyone tell how to perfectly build the hoses without leaks? On youtube are tutorials only for some thick hoses and fittings for AN3 are slightly different from them. should I put some ptfe tape? in which places?

Thank you so much for the answer, helped me alot! As for question I don't know how to fix that kind of leak, i know you have looked at some tutorials for it, but have you looked at the one from summit racing? it seems quit good.

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6 hours ago, AgapeN said:

Thank you so much for the answer, helped me alot! As for question I don't know how to fix that kind of leak, i know you have looked at some tutorials for it, but have you looked at the one from summit racing? it seems quit good.

Yes, I 've seen them but compared to thumb size it's AN6 or AN8 where you screw connector into hose. Just a moment ago I had found hungarian tutorial. Here is link in case someone else have issue with brake cables. what i noticed the secret is perfectly square cut. Any bits left after cutting must be removed - compression does not overcome it..

Edited by Tofi

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20 hours ago, esteady1 said:

Inky, I really like your build. The "cable management" of the hoses really sold me. I ordered parts. 

Could you post a few more pics that show how you mounted the slave cylinder? 

Thanks.

I used a piece of aluminium plate measuring 150mm x 25mm x 8mm and mounted it to the side of the handbrake using the original holes.(You will need longer bolts for this)

I had to cut a portion away at the front to allow for the handbrake slide mechanism to move

I then cut a piece of aluminium plate measuring 55mm x 25mm x 8mm and cut a slot into it so that it could slide onto the other bar and be bolted into place.

The pushrod in the slave cylinder is a 10mm coachbolt with the rubber gaiter stretched over it.

You can even adjust the brake lever tension to your liking by moving the nut in or out.

The coachbolt goes through a hole in the end plate with a couple of skateboard bushes on.

The washers you see in pic 2 are just to space the bar away from the fluid reservoir 

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On 07/05/2016 at 0:58 PM, Tofi said:

I had 3 leaks. One from hose and two from ptfe sealed threads. I'm not worry about threads because thy are easy to seal. Issue is how to seal hose connector.

 

All i can suggest really is to make sure the end of the hose is cleanly and squarely cut and don't over tighten it.

Maybe a new piece of hose?

Once the end is cut simply slide on the outer nut and then spread the outer sleeve of the hose and slide the small aluminium connector end onto the inner hose.

Slide the hose onto the connector spigot and tighten the nut.

You could even wrap some ptfe round the hose end if you wanted.

Edited by inky99

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4 hours ago, esteady1 said:

Inky, another question if you would.

What is the part from "Motec" used for? I don't see it in your pics.

It is under the main body of the handbrake and is used to connect the pressure transducer. You can see it in pic1 of my reply to your last post.

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