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Found 2 results

  1. Hello everyone, just a quick question to help get me set up with all of my new sim racing equipment. I've purchased a Fanatec Xbox Universal Hub and by default it has the xbox buttons on each button box. It also comes with replacement button caps to swap out - for example - the 'A' button cap with a windscreen wiper symbol button cap. Very cool idea however I cannot for the life of me figure out how to change the caps. It is not located anywhere within the universal hubs manual, nor is it on their website. I couldn't find anything on YouTube or Google in general. I tried pulling, twisting, pushing and a combination of all three. I'm scared of breaking it. So if anyone has done this, could they pleeeeease tell me? Thank you very much.
  2. Fanatec CSR “A2” mod I have a CSR wheel and I am more than satisfied with its feedback strength. The downside is I totally hate the “toy” wheel thats attached. I needed automotive grade, quick-change race wheels with buttons plates With a few pieces from ebay and the local Radio Shack (and weeks of trial and error) I was able to come up with a simple and very inexpensive way to make a quick change wheel solution for my CSR wheel. I made sure to get those controls out of the wheel and onto somewhere accessible while keeping it looking somewhat presentable. I took a piece of ABS and duplicated the mount plate from the wheel then screwed it to the board and used a 10-conductor cable to connect it up back to the base. For the wheel mount I used automotive grade quick release adapters from ebay and the CSR wheel adapter from SRH. With the neck of the CSR being open I was able to fit a 20-pin ATX power adapter and wiring harness through it, and connect it to the DSD button matrix board using the arduino pins. This lets me use 10 buttons per wheel in any configuration and the wiring for doing this is super easy with buttons only using 2 conductors each (top/bottom row = button conductor 1&2 x 10 rows across = 20 pins) and I still have 22 buttons to make another button box from on the DSD matrix. Using #10/32 3” screws from home depot (same thread as steering hubs) I was able to space out just enough room for the male ATX connector on the base sandwiched between the DSD & quick release and the same goes for the wheel side using the female ATX connector about 1-1.5” and just cut off the excess. the stiffness of the atx connector wire, which I though would be an issue at first turned out to work in my favor. It allows the wheel to connect without needing any fingers or messing around in between the mount and it links and unlinks better than I EVER could planned for. The result is now I can turn any wheel i want into a auto grade race wheel for only a few pieces of wires, switches and screws. I cut the wheel plate from a piece of ABS plastic using a Dremel and covered it in some carbon fiber vinyl. The total materials to do this is around only $25 per wheel, maybe less. (plus DSD’s / SRH fees of $60 for the adapter and USB button matrix) I’ve already put 100 laps on it, its SUPER solid and I love the options of wheels I have now for this CSR. I can close the case back up but the fan really gets to buzzing during the long races so i’ll leave it open and see if that helps keep her cool. I have 4 wheels and also a SRW-S1 formula wheel on it that I modded! I’ll have to make a post on that later. Questions, comments, concerns? I'm all ears. Thanks for reading.