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I just completed my Thrustmaster F1 wheel mod using a SIMR-F1 display. This display is really close to the MacLaren PCU-6D display used in real F1 cars, except for the orange colored lateral displays. The SIMR-F1 is HUGE and barely fits the Thrustmaster F1 wheel, but in the end I'm really satisfied with the result: The wheel now has: * 1 SIMR-F1 display - 15 LED rpm display (5 green, 5 red, 5 blue) - 6 additional LEDs (pitlane, optimal shift point, overheat ...) - left display panel (rpm, water temp, oil temp, current lap, remaining laps, laps before pit ...) - center display dedicated to current gear - right display panel (best laptime, optimal laptime, delta to best, delta to opti ...) * 8 buttons - stock buttons connected to the display (k, n, pit, pump, pl, drs, +10, -1) * 5 up-down encoders - 2 stock encoder connected to the display (dif in, chrg) - 3 additional encoder (mix, grp, trq) * 3 12 position switches - left display panel variable selection (boost) - right display panel variable selection (rev) - Ferrari knob (MF) * 3 3 way switches - 3 stock 2 way switches are replaced (bo, start, wet) * 2 d-pads - both d-pads are connected together * 2 paddle shifters - stock paddle switches connected to the display On the SIMR-F1 the following inputs and outputs are used: - 30 digital inputs (buttons, encoders) out of 32 - 3 12 position switches out of 9 - 0 analog inputs out of 2 - 0 external LEDs out of 7 All the hardware, software, tools and steps involved to complete this mod are commented in the following post: http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/12982-thrustmaster-f1-wheel-mod-with-simr-f1-display-switches-and-encoders Here are some short videos with the wheel in action on iRacing: In race conditions:

Derek Speare adapter to fit aftermarket real car steering wheels to your T500RS. retails for $50 selling for $39 email me at [email protected]

Hi Guys, I have just noticed that my T3PA pedals have become detached from my T500RS wheel base, the problem is the cable has become detached from the rj11/rj12 connector. The problem I am having is I do not know what type of connect I need it looks like either an RJ11 or RJ12 with an offset lug, I live in the UK and I cannot find any that are compatible from looking at ebay/amazon etc.. I did order some that looked identical on the Internet the details can be found below (however these do not fit in the port on the wheel base) Manufacturer Code: 940-SP-3066-OST Manufacturer: Stewart Connector Plug, MMJ, 6WAY Website: http://uk.farnell.com/browse-for-products Could anyone please help with this and the PIN out configuration!! Any help would be very much appreciated Kind Regards Rambomonkey

SOLD! check out my other gear for sale - Frex sequential shifter, sparco wheel with DSD adapter for t500rs, th8a with a sparco knob, rev counter Ferrari F1 Wheel Add-On for T500RS current value - $150 Selling for - $115 email me at [email protected] sorry, it wouldn't let me rotate the picture

Fits Thurstmaster T500RS Actual current value - $262 Selling for $199 email me at [email protected]

1.) Thrustmaster T500RS with Richmotech Real Feel load cell brake pedal. Thrustmaster pedal mods: Richmotech Real Feel load cell brake mod, Basher brake mod installed in clutch pedal (comes with extra bushing), gas spring replaced with spring from brake pedal. 2.) Thrustmaster Ferrari F1 add on wheel 3.) DSD wheel adapter for Thrustmater wheels 4.) Basher brake mod (Kit that includes 4 bushings.Two 70 durometer bushings and two 60 durometer bushings should allow you to mix and match the bushings to create a pedal stiffness that is to your liking.) All items are in good working condition. Price for all is $575.00 shipped obo. Located in California Please email me or pm me if you are interested or have any questions ([email protected])

Guys, Since one week my T500RS shuts down when I turn very quickly the wheel. I noticed it playing DIRT Rally with low FFB allowing very fast movements with low FFB sometimes, In fact, that's the power supply that cuts and come back to life few minutes later, so I think it's over current or over voltage, and now I want to know if it's due to the power supply / due to the wheel or perfectly normal. I made some tests I noticed some events and I need help from other T500RS users to know if it's normal or specific to my wheel. First, power supply plugged to the wheel but not to the wall when I turn the wheel the power supply LED turns ON, is it the same for you guys? (if yes no issue on my wheel, if no maybe something wrong and motor send back current to the power supply and that's what causes shuts down) Second, and more important, I can reproduce the issue I have in game in the controller configuration panel (where you set rotation angle), on this panel (wheel pluged in and powered, the wheel is loose and allows very fast rotation) when I turn very fast a few times both ways, it cuts. If someone can do the test, I would appreciate and don't panic if it cuts just unplug everything and wait a few minutes for the power supply to recover. Hoping someone can help me in my debugging, Last thing, I replaced the fan in my t500rs when I noticed the first shuts down, the fan was dead and maybe overheating caused damaged to my power supply or wheel, (I hardly recommend to change it for the Noctua NF-A6X25 FLX even if it still works) I sent an email to thrustmaster support. Cheers, Vincent