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Found 15 results

  1. Hello fellow sim racers! Today I have decided to start a thread about a project I recently completed as I believe some Thrustmaster wheel owners may be interested. This is a button plate for the T500 wheel base that uses an Arduino board and sketch to emulate the original T500 GT rim. This means the button plate is recognized by the T500 base as the original rim, so console compatibility is maintained. There is also no need for an external USB as the Arduino is powered by the wheelbase. I was turned on to this project when I came across a blog/tutorial written by Taras from rr-m.org. Taras built a similar console compatible button plate using an Arduino board for the TX wheelbase. He has now also added a blog post for the T500 rim emulation since we where able to confirm that we in fact have a working sketch. Taras should be given full credit for all of the software, sketch writing and wiring diagrams for both the TX and T500 emulations. This was my first time using Arduino so his knowledge was definitely needed for my project to be a success. In his blogs (linked below) you will find all of the necessary information to perform this project yourself, including the Arduino Sketches and wiring diagrams. I have included some pics of my button plate project as well as the YouTube video I upload showing my button plate working on both PS3 and in the control panel. Hopefully Taras will be joining isrtv and posting here about his TX project as well. The button plate I have made now is a very simple and plain design using an Arduino Uno R3, once I replace the 350mm rim with a suede 320mm rim I will make a much nicer button plate using an Arduino Nano. I hope you guys enjoy and please feel free to ask any questions or post any comments you may have, I always like to get feedback Edit: The TX emulation sketch is now confirmed to function with the T300 base. This sketch can be found and downloaded from Taras' blog part 3 in the link below. Link to Taras' Thrustmaster TX (and T300) Arduino Powered Button Plate Blog Post/Tutorial (Sketches, wiring diagrams and videos for TX within) Pt. 1: http://rr-m.org/blog/hacking-a-thrustmaster-tx-rw-gaming-wheel-with-arduino-uno-part-1/ Pt. 2: http://rr-m.org/blog/hacking-a-thrustmaster-tx-rw-wheelbase-with-arduino-uno-part-2/ Pt. 3: http://rr-m.org/blog/arduino-nano-controlled-buttons-for-thrustmaster-wheelbases-part-3/ Link to Taras' T500 GT rim emulation wiring diagram and Arduino Sketch: http://rr-m.org/blog/emulating-thrustmaster-t500-gt-wheel-electronics-with-arduino/ My YouTube Video: https://youtu.be/2-THDfbPM-A Photos of my project: Thanks for looking and as always, "Keep Driving!"
  2. so I bought the t500 from my friend to help him out about 2 years ago and used it a few times to play gran turismo sport. since then, i have not used it once. so im willing to sell cheap rather than having it to lay around here in the house. both wheel and the thurstmaster work perfect. i had an issue with the pedals one of them is not working but thats about it. ill also throw in the stand i have for it. im in the NyC AREA (new york, united states)
  3. Thrustmaster T500RS F1 Integral This is Thrustmaster's T500RS that came originally with the Ferrari F1 steering wheel. I'm selling the extended set, including: - servo T500RS (with the mount clamp and the screws to hard mount it to your rig) - the integral Ferrari F1 steering wheel - Ferrari Challenge GT steering wheel - Ferrari 458 Italia steering wheel - Ferrari 599XX Evo Alcantara steering wheel - T3PA pedals in F1 setup (can be switched to the GT as well) - power supply and all the cables All the elements included are pictured. Everything works like new, although all the elements have visible signs of use. This set was used in racing sims for last two years. Available to pick up in Northern Colorado. Also can ship.
  4. I am looking to get started in sim racing, primarily iRacing. I am not worried about wanting to sell my wheel because I know I will use it as I play many other racing games. I am just wondering Which wheel I should purchase. Should I buy a cheaper beginner wheel such as the T150 or should I save up and purchase something like a T300 or even a fanatec? Thanks.
  5. WHEEL RIMS ARE NOW SOLD! Had another member who was searching for these ready to purchase, had me pull them out of storage and then vanished. Now that I've got them out, I would like to sell them. TS-PC Racer rim has never been out of the box the whole deal came in. I think everyone knows what it looks like, but if someone really wants to see a photo I can snap one. Will also throw in the little carrying bag Thrustmaster provided for the rim. Pictures of the Ferrari rim are below. Original box, original packaging. Barely used. BEST OFFER on either one, or both rims together! [email protected]
  6. Hey guys, I had this rim posted a while ago and had several potential sales....but none materialized into anything but "potential" lol. I actually purchased this from another member on these boards about a year ago but I don't really seem to have much use for it since I purchased the Oculus Rift. I currently use a T500 and it simply installs the same way a thrustmaster wheel would. The adapter piece could very easily be changed out to a quick release for those higher end bases but this only come with the Thrustmaster DSD adapter. Everything works 100%!!!!! It's just sitting on my shelf waiting for a new home. I have it priced at $600 shipped within the US. I've done countless of sales on ebay under the username bmxthrasher19.
  7. timoshina

    sold

    Sold ========= Hey guys! I'm selling Thrustmaster T500RS streering wheel. It comes with TH8A gearbox shifter, GT Omega racing stand & 320mm streering wheel (with adapter). Lightly used, in excellent condition with boxes. Price is $650. Local pickup preffered. I'm located in Orlando, Florida 32819. I might consider selling and shipping all of these apart. Thanks
  8. Title says it all, looking for a T300 or a T500 with the F1 wheel add on.
  9. Hi! I'm new in this forum, and English isn't my mother language, so please excuse me if i make some mispelling. Now that i have introduced myself, i would like to explain my situation: I have a Logitech DFP (8 years and counting) and i would like to improve my simracing experience. But of course, i have a limited budget... So, i have to choose between this alternatives: 1. Logitech G920 (With Logitech Shifter) : £180 2. Fanatec CSL Elite LC (Pedals Only): £250 3. Thrustmaster TX Leather (With T3PA pedals): £321 4. Thrustmaster T500 RS : £350 5. Thrustmaster T3PA Pro + TH8A Shifter: £305 I live in Argentina, so i can't RMA nothing at all, which means that Thrustmaster's reliability issues are a deal breaker for me. I would like to know what do you think about this, and help me choosing the best alternative. Thanks in advance.
  10. For sale is a used T500RS wheel, pedals. All for USD $450. Everything works and is in good condition, I would like to sell locally here in Knoxville, TN, but will consider shipping. I just want to upgrade to direct drive! If you have any questions feel free to ask on here or contact me via email: [email protected] or call or text 865 368 9244 thanks for looking!
  11. Just curious. If t500 has a lower price it will be the perfect choice for me.
  12. madrifter

    DIY HYDRAULIC HANDBRAKE

    ok so i have built a fully hydraulic handbrake fully works hanbrake as i got it all the adapters i used handbrake with adapter handbrake with adapters and pressure sensor handbrake with adapters pressure sensor and reservoir fully assembled and working the pressure sensor connects to leo bodnar BU0836A youtube video of it working i have designed a longer handbrake handle and im having it laser cut should be here next week PARTS LIST hydraulic handrake http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HYDRAULIC-HANDBRAKE-RACE-RALLY-AUTOGRASS-DRIFT-200SX-FORD-ST-EVO-FIESTA-GTI-GOLF-/220974679931?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item33731e077b reservoir http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-Hydraulic-Drift-E-Brake-Oil-Tank-for-Hand-Brake-Oil-Fluid-Reservoir-/231204102403?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item35d4d6a103 1000PSI sam sensor http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-transducer-sender-1000-psi-for-oil-fuel-air-/250957430320?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a6e3a7e30 3 way female m10x1mm thread http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400370411255?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 2 X m10x1mm to m10x1mm male adapter (but one adapter had one male side threaded to 3/8 unf to fit handbrake) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120786622815?var=420046548431&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 1 X bleed nipple m10x1mm http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-x-1-Steel-Brake-Bleed-Screw-Nipple-/131042379228?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item1e82bc05dc 1 X m10x1mm to m10x1mm female adapter http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120786622815?var=420046548430&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 and leo bodnars BU0836A 12 bit joystick board (but i used this for button box then attached handbrake to it via plug in button box) http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66&products_id=204 any question please ask ill do my best to help anyone make one it feels awesome thanks for looking
  13. Some of you will have seen Wilfredo Tosado's simulator and this wheel is from his collection. This is not a regular Thrustmaster F1 wheel. This has been upgraded by F1 Wheel Mod and all dials, knobs, switches and buttons have been replaced and upgraded. Also the new Carbon Fiber look upgrades the finish. Where the fake ones where have now been modified to work. There is also an LED rev lights and RPM and gear counter. This will require a USB connection via the cable provided to work and using the following software downloads. http://www.eksimracing.com/new-slimax-manager-pro/ The wheel now has: * 1 SIMR-F1 display - 15 LED rpm display (5 green, 5 red, 5 blue) - 6 additional LEDs (pitlane, optimal shift point, overheat ...) - left display panel (rpm, water temp, oil temp, current lap, remaining laps, laps before pit ...) - center display dedicated to current gear - right display panel (best laptime, optimal laptime, delta to best, delta to opti ...) * 8 buttons - stock buttons connected to the display (k, n, pit, pump, pl, drs, +10, -1) * 5 up-down encoders - 2 stock encoder connected to the display (dif in, chrg) - 3 additional encoder (mix, grp, trq) * 3 12 position switches - left display panel variable selection (boost) - right display panel variable selection (rev) - Ferrari knob (MF) * 3 3 way switches - 3 stock 2 way switches are replaced (bo, start, wet) * 2 d-pads - both d-pads are connected together * 2 paddle shifters - stock paddle switches connected to the display On the SIMR-F1 the following inputs and outputs are used:- 30 digital inputs (buttons, encoders) out of 32- 3 12 position switches out of 9- 0 analog inputs out of 2- 0 external LEDs out of 7 **Insurance will be required for shipping purposes.** Price is $450.00 + $25.00 insurance/shipping. It was part of this simulator before being upgraded: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxcRVFoLFWs Wil Tosado's Porsche 996 Motion Simulator Part 2 - Driving Compilat Wil Tosado's Porsche 996 Motion Simulator Part 2 - Driving Compilation http://www.ISRTV.com presents Part 2 of our forum member, Wil "Mayaman" Tosado's, Porsche 996 moti...
  14. squish72

    T500rs $180 shipped

    Looking to sell my wheel. In good condition $180
  15. I have a T500RS that appears to have a problem with the clutch pedal. This has been a very confusing & irritating situation as it seems to be a bit of an inconsistent problem. I first noticed that the clutch did not seem to be functioning reliably in PCars (on PS4). In the calibration screen of PCars when I depressed the pedals, the clutch would not register some of the time ... & eventually all the time. I stopped playing PCars for a number of months, but recently bought AC for PS4. To my surprise, the clutch seemed to work fine, but after a few weeks the clutch would occasionally start grinding in game as I changed gears. I'm guessing that the reason is does this is because the game reacts as though the clutch has not been depressed. It is gradually happening more & more, although at times, for a time, it still works OK. My assumption is that there is some mechanical problem with the clutch pedal. Is this a known problem? Is there any established fix? Thanks for any input!