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Found 4 results

  1. Building my sim rig. Looking for various devices. I am located in US, Zip 98036 DD wheel: Simucube 2 Sport or Pro, Sim racing bay OSW. Augury OSW 18/20 Rim: formula style wheel (around 290mm) with dual clutch. Preferably Ascher F64, Taichi F1, cube controls. Open to other formula style wheels. Pedals (with clutch): Preferably Heusinkveld HE sprint or ProtoSimTech PT2. Shifter: Fanatec, Frex or SHH hybrid. Let me know what you got. Help me build my DD rig. Thanks :)
  2. Hello Inside Sim Racing Forum, I am selling my Great Conditioned Direct Drive OSW setup that consists of the following: OSW-Simucube System with IoniProHC Servo Drive, MiXE 130ST-M10010 Motor, Mean Well 480W Powersupply, and Acrylic Simcube ($1100 MSRP and Currently out of stock) Link to product: For the wheel, I have a Sam Maxwell Custom Momo Mod 30 320mm wheel (MSRP $639.00), it has a programmable USB Panel (I also purchased USB Extension Cords for the wheel to make sure the curled cord it uses does not break or deform). Link to product: For the Pedals, I have Fanatec V3 Clubsport Pedals ($329.99 MSRP) Link to product: The system was purchased in July of 2017. My reason for selling this set up is that I am moving and currently lack the time to really enjoy this system. I paid around $2100 for this setup and even without a dedicated chassis/rig, it was a joy to use on Assetto Corsa. Some features that this sim comes with are: Programmable USB Buttons for Steering Wheel Emergency Shutoff Button Integration with Granite Devices Software Easy Plug and Play Setup Free "Tech" Support from myself to help with the setup (via phone or text). I have attached photos of the equipment. The total use of the system is roughly 20 hours (This can be verified if you want to know exact usage). Because I am offering help and have simplified the system, I am asking for $2000 OBO (With Shipping Included). I can also provide advice for assembling a proper chassis for the sim system, as I believe this setup is deserving of a proper race chassis/chair system. I will also ship internationally if you need it. This system is perfect for an intermediate racer who wants an affordable entry to the Direct Drive systems. Please let me know if you have any questions. Reply to this post if you are interested and we can talk on the phone/text should you choose. Here is a review of the kit:
  3. Hello, If you're impatient just skip down to the questions bit. I've been lurking this community for a long time, but now I have a good reason to post. My old Fanatec GT3 RS V2 is dying and I've decided to go all out for an OSW (Open Sim Wheel) setup. I've spent weeks researching like crazy and reading literally hundreds of forum pages here and at many other forums. I've even been using Google Translate to read French, German, and Italian forums which seem to have a lot of good information as well, even though it is tedious. I'm a big computer geek, but I'm not an electrical engineer so I'm learning as I go when it comes to power supplies and motor specs. I'll present a summary of the things I've learned to help others as I learn myself. Here are some examples of forum resources I've found on OSW primarily contributed by the famous "Beano": That last link is of particular interest as it's a fairly recent summary from Beano on the current state of things and it makes it sound like I can use an AKM motor with Simucube. After all the research it looks like I've gone through the entire history of OSW and much of the information is no longer up to date. Today I'm looking at a Simucube based build hopefully using a Kollmorgen AKM motor. I want the highest quality OSW wheel I can reasonably build and ideally I want 1:1 torque. I've checked out a number of vendors who sell OSW kits and found lots of Mige stuff but no Kollmorgen kits aside from what Dennis Reimer sold using an Argon controller (he closed up shop so that isn't even an option now). I'm located in Canada and the cost of parts with shipping and currency exchange is high so I'm trying to be as smart as possible about how I source everything. I'm going to see what my options are for motors locally before buying everything else foreign. When it comes to picking a motor I know the Mige is a great option, however if I'm doing so much work to get this researched and built I might as well upgrade a notch and not have to upgrade again. The Lenze might be a good choice and I might actually go with that, but can I do better? So I watched Barry at "Sim Racing Garage" and his reviews of the high end Bodnar systems and here's what I learned: Sim Racing Garage: Bodnar SimSteering Specs: Bodnar SimSteering V1 Motor = Kollmorgen AKM52G-ANCNEJ00 - Encoder based (EJ encoder) Bodnar SimSteering V2 Motor = Kollmorgen AKM52G-ANCNC-00 - New resolver (C resolver – AKA "Smart feedback device") Both V1 and V2 use the XP DNR480 Power Supply for AKM52 based motor. Barry also tested an OSW kit with a Kollmorgan AKM53G-ANCNR-00 motor which was popular (also resolver based ("R-" in the part number), powered via Argon). Apparently this new Bodnar V2 system is a step ahead of the V1 system using the new "smart" Resolver based feedback according to Barry. How to read a Kollmorgen part number: AKM53G-ANCNC-00 translates to: AKM series Frame size 5 Rotor stack length 3 Winding Type G International Standard Mount (A) Smooth Shaft (N) IP65 connectors (C) No brake (N) Smart feedback device Resolver (SFD) (C-) Standard motor without shaft seal (00) The "C-" in the part number is the resolver. Or, if the motor has the "EJ" code instead that means "10000 PPR digital encoder". Where to find Kollmorgen motor details: I pulled the catalog and motor selection guide from here and dug in. The numbers are daunting, and this is where I'm starting to get lost. Power Supplies: The "Mean Well SDR-480-48" seems to be a popular choice that is packaged with kits, however I want a power supply that has no risk of straining. Beano presents some other options here: With that, I wonder about using something like this: However, it does appear that Bodnar is powering AKM motors with only 480 watts. SimuCube / IONI: Kollmorgen motors are not listed in the Simucube motor table here. Questions: I'm pretty sure I want more than an AKM52 for torque. Is an AKM53 enough, or do I dare consider an AKM54? As the motor gets bigger you get more torque, sure, but you also lose out on other aspects such as speed and responsiveness, I think. I don't know much about the motor winding type differences. It seems like most motors are using the "G" type winding (Like AKM53G), are there any other options I should consider? I hear the "G" winding is optimized for more torque. Beano has a setup that uses the "K" winding. What kind of power do these Kollmorgen motors take? From the spec documents I gathered they are "Brushless servo motors, AC". Can the Simucube / IONI power them? I think so...but I'm not positive. On page 61 of the Kollmorgen catalog they list the AKM specification numbers in a big table, with different columns under different voltage values. How does that voltage stuff work here? Suppose I have an 800 Watt PSU supplying 48 V to the Simucube with IONI Pro HC, and the IONI supplies a max amperage of 25 A to the something voltage? I know Watt = Amp X Volt, but I'm getting lost here. How do I read that fancy table? Simucube does not support resolvers, it only supports encoders so I would be forced to use an Argon for a Resolver motor. Should I stick with the encoder, or consider abandoning Simucube for Argon? Simucube seems like the better choice, I just wonder if I'd be missing out on something with the encoder. I understand it may be possible to get an encoder with even higher resolution than 10000 PPR? "You will get better positioning and thus feel finer FFB forces.....after 32k PPR though, no advantages......between 16k and 32k the best for is racing use I believe.... " - Beano Are there any other good forums or resources I haven't yet found that could help me out? I suppose that's enough for a first post. I haven't even begun to figure out wheel details yet, just getting this motor and Simucube stuff sorted out is my first step. Thanks. JonnyK
  4. Hey guys, I thought I would share this project here. I am not sure that I can give an exact guide as I found this on the iracing forum but I will post the link to the iracing thread and if anyone has any questions feel free to contact me and I will lead you to all of the necessary information. I take no credit for the Teensy USB conversion portion of this project as it is all another persons work. I simply came up with my own way of utilizing this adapter by mounting outside of the rim. Ok, my goal was to convert my current Fanatec rim as well as any future fanatec rim I may use to USB. The caveat was I only wanted to purchase one USB adapter and I did not want disassembly or modification of the rims to be required. I also wanted to complete this project for less than $20 (not including rim). While most of this project will be difficult for others to complete due to certain parts being difficult to obtain the actual USB conversion aspect may be interesting in itself. The adapter I used is the teensyLC ($17 on ebay) wired and loaded with firmware according to this thread at iracing: There is also a github guide here about the teensy based USB conversion: I started with my SimuCUBE direct drive system. I purchased this kit from Tomo at Sim Racing Bay therefore I am lucky enough to have the Fanatec base side QR adapter he makes. This is one of the components which is required and also difficult to obtain unless you happen to have purchased your DD setup from Sim Racing Bay. The next item I had on hand was a spare Fanatec base side wiring harness. Of course I also had the CSW rim I was converting. So, in order to use one adapter with multiple rims the adapter itself needed to be outside of the rim and be able to connect to the rim using the standard wiring harness/plug that is inside the rim from the factory. This is where the base side harness comes in. Instead of wiring my adapter to the rim PCB directly or to a JST 2.0 8 pin connector and plugging it into the rims PCB I decided to solder my adapter to the spare base side harness I had lying around. I could then fit this harness inside the Fanatec base side QR which came with my DD system. Fortunately Tomo machined these adapters to precise tolerances and there is also a lip machined inside the hub at the perfect point for the plug to rest. This allows the harness fit snugly inside the custom Fanatec QR and also allows the plug to rest against the lip at the perfect depth. When the rim is installed the plugs mate perfectly, and connection is made. This solved the problem of being able to attach various Fanatec rims quickly and easily with only one USB adapter. Next was the concern of housing the USB adapter. What I decided to do was utilize a steering wheel spacer. I was planning on moving my motor back anyways so I already had this on order. This piece is not in the photos as it has not yet arrived but I will update the project pictures once it is completed. You will be able to see in the pics how the adapter will be housed inside the spacer. Basically the spacer will mount to the custom Fanatec QR and allow enough space for the USB adapter to fit inside comfortably. The other side of the spacer will mount to the split bushing on the motor axle. Between the motor split bushing and the steering wheel spacer there will be 6 5mm bolt spacers. These will create a gap between the motor and steering wheel spacer so the USB cable can fit through. I will fasten the USB cable to the spacer in some fashion to prevent and tension on the micro USB connection during use. Of course I will be using a typical coiled USB cable. And that all there is to it, I will have a hub mounted on the axle of my motor that will allow me to mount any stock Non Modified CSW rim or hub (excluding the Xbox hub) directly to my direct drive wheel and maintain button and LED functionality. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. Here are the pics I have so far, as you can see the adapter is covered in heat shrink tubing for protection. The red heat shrink is only covering the unused wires for safety. I will add more pics once the spacer arrives and I can move further with the project. This is the spacer I will use to house the adapter.