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Found 10 results

  1. Hi, This is Taichi from Taich Sim Racing Wheels!We're selling replica and custom steering wheels for simracing. Our goal is to provide high quality wheels for all simracers at cheaper price than other producers. To accomplish this, we utilise Aluminium plates instead of Crabon fibre plates, which can greatly reduce the cost while keeping the durability, sturdiness and lightness. Please have a look on my website or Instagram to find more cool stuff like these!Instagram: taichisimracing Website: Taichisteering email: [email protected] You want the CAD data for DIY project? Get them here, or email me!Pinshape: taichi sim racing wheels Feel free to contact me if you have any requests for custom build!
  2. Based in Glasgow - Scotland. Looking for rSeat rs1 or Trak Racer RS6 cockpit in good condition. Must be willing to ship or deliver to the south glasgow area.
  3. Hello, thank you for checking out my "How to" on building my simrig! I have attached zip files for you to download that have all the information needed for every single piece to build the rig, along with plans, sections, and elevations with some dimensions for reference. I will try to explain how I chose to go about assembling it below. - Attachments are at the bottom of this post, after the pictures. **** I strongly encourage you to take time and familiarize yourself with all of the information given before you begin construction. **** A few pieces of the build will require you to take some of your own dimensions to have it work best with all of your equipment. Refer to the "Piece Tickets.pdf". - For example, you will need to take specific dimensions of the monitor you decide to use. These will be very important in determining where the cutouts will be located for the monitor and front speakers, and how large they will need to be. **** If you have any questions about anything or see that I have left out something needed to build the rig, please send me a message or reply to this topic and I will do my best to explain anything you need. I would suggest that you reply to this topic, that way if anyone else has the same question they can get an answer just by following the posts. If you decide to build my rig, I would greatly appreciate it if you could add a picture of your finished build to this topic. I am very interested to see how you will make it your own, and if you decide to make any modifications to it. Feel free to change anything you would like about the build, I have only given information for how to build my rig exactly. - If you would like to play computer games on it, I currently do not have it designed with that in mind. If you wanted to though, a simple solution would be to put your computer inside the large panel that you use to access the back of the monitor & front speakers, Depending on how large the monitor is you use, it should be able to fit inside well. I would suggest that your computer has a good cooling system in it though, because it could get quite warm being enclosed in a small area. Key things to pay attention to: 1. All of my dimensions given are based on using 5/8" thick wood. If you use any thickness other than 5/8", many dimensions will be slightly off which will cause problems with pieces lining up correctly. If you use a different thickness of wood, you will need to add/subtract the difference it makes in all pieces that would be affected. 2. I used a 32" LG monitor. I would assume you could go up to a 36", but I have not verified that, and it would still depend on the overall dimensions of the monitor, and front speakers. You will need to reference dimensions given and make sure the monitor and speakers you choose will fit inside the designated areas for them. 3. Plan out ahead of time how you plan to finish the rig off. Whether you decide to add material, paint it, stain it, etc. You should figure that out before assembling the pieces so you know how hard it will be to finish off once fully built, or how much prep work you will need to do before assembling. 4. The plans I have designed were for my own personal preference, using a Fanatec CSR Elite wheel, Fanatec CSR Elite Pedals, and Fanatec CSR Shifter Set. Please review the dimensions given and figure out if they will work well with your equipment of choice, and personal preferences. Certain dimensions were not provided (such as location of the seat, etc.) because you should determine that for where you would like it yourself. 5. I have not provided information on how to attach all of the pieces together, I used screws. - First I drilled a pilot hole, then recessed it some so when I drilled in the screw, it would not stick out from the wood. I also did not use any backup support to drill into, I just lined the pieces up and drilled directly into the ends. If you do this as well, make sure you are very careful when drilling your pilot holes and make sure you are going through the wood as close as possible to the center of the 5/8" thickness. If you are off by too much, the screw will end up coming through the side of a piece, or cause the wood to split and not hold the screw in place. If you choose to add extra wood backing so you have a wider area to drill into, you should be able to cut small pieces from the left over 4' x 8' sheets of wood. *** Plan out what you will do before starting construction. 6. IMPORTANT: I did not build this rig with plans for it to be easily taken apart or transported. When fully built it is too large to fit through typical doorways. Make sure that where you build it is where you are going to plan on keeping it, because you will not be able to get it out of its location unless it is disassembled. 7. You will probably want to run all the wiring for the speakers before you close in certain areas of the rig. Once it is fully assembled, it will be difficult to run certain wiring, such as the rear left surround speaker. I also would encourage you to make sure you use something to hold the wiring in place in certain areas, so if you disconnect a wire it can't fall down through a hole pass through, and be near impossible to get back out. 8. (I will add more to the list as I think of them, or are brought to my attention) I hope I have given enough information for you to complete the build as easily as possible. Some of my ticketing for the pieces and layout may be confusing though. I tried to fit everything including the dimensions onto the size of a typical sheet of paper so you can print them out and follow along without needing a computer by your side the entire time you are laying out and cutting the pieces. - Please print out all of the tickets, and use a highlighter to check off dimensions and pieces as you know they have been drawn and then cut. Thank you very much for your interest in my rig, and building it for yourself. I became inspired to build/design this rig from seeing other peoples amazing creations on this site, and I hope that I have been able to inspire you in some way to build your own rig. It really is rewarding and almost as fun as actually racing in it once you're done the build....almost. Ha. Happy Racing!!! Material required for build: (8) ---- Sheets of 8' x 4' x 5/8" wood. (8) ---- Hinges for door panels. (5) ---- Knobs/Door pulls for door panels. (1,000,000...jk) ---- Screws. Recommended tools: - Circular Saw - Jigsaw - Drill - Sander - Measuring Tape - Level - Router (for recessing holes on shifter mount) ****Please download all attachments. They are all required in order to have all information needed to cut the pieces, and build the rig. Good luck! STEP 1: BASE - P-14, (2) P-15 Hold P-15 pieces 5/8" in from the edges of piece P-14 STEP 2: BASE - (3) P-16 STEP 3: LEFT SIDE (BOTTOM) - P-1, P-2, P-3, P-4, P-5, P-6, (1) P-7, (1) P-8, (1) P-9 STEP 4: RIGHT SIDE (BOTTOM) - (1) P-7. (1) P-8, (1) P-9, P-10, P-11, P-12, P-13 I placed the amp for my transducer on piece P-10. If you choose to use an amp with transducer, this is where I would recommend you also placing the amp as it is easy to reach with your right hand. Dimensions and cutouts will need to be taken for your personal placement. You will also need to have a cutout somewhere near the rear of piece P-10 for the speaker wire to run though, to the transducer located under your seat. STEP 5: ATTACH SIDES TO BOTTOM Attach the assembled sides from Steps 3 and 4, to the bottom of the rig from Step 1 STEP 6: MONITOR STAND - P-17, P-18, (2) P-19 Pieces P-18 and (2) P-19 can be modified depending on how you choose to support your monitor. If you extend them to the back of piece P-17, and widen piece P-18, you can probably place a computer on it as well as the monitor. STEP 7: MONITOR PANEL - P-20, (2) P-21, (2) P-22 Attach pieces (2) P-21 & (2) P-22 to piece P-20 before installing piece P-20. All cutouts on P-20 will need to be determined by you based on monitor size & speaker choice. Piece sizes for (2) P-21 & (2) P-22 will be determined by monitor cutout on P-20. STEP 8: FRONT SPEAKER STANDS & SIDE SUPPORTS - (4) P-42, (2) P-43, (2) P-41 Dimensions will need to be taken. Heights and widths depend on your monitor and speaker choice, and cutout locations on piece P-20. Piece P-41 is added to help pieces P-32 & P-33 together. STEP 9: SIDES (TOP)- P-32, P-33 Piece P-32 goes above piece P-1 from Step 3. Piece P-33 goes above piece P-13 from Step 4. STEP 10: CEILING, CENTER CHANNEL & LIGHT OPENING - P-23, (2) P-24, (2) P-25, P-26, P-27, (2) P-28 Attach all pieces needed to piece P-23 before installing P-23. Verify ahead of time that your center channel speaker will fit on the base designed to hold it. STEP 11: DIVIDERS - (2) P-29, P-30, P-31 STEP 12: BACK PANEL W DOORS - P-37, (2) P-38 Hinges required to attach pieces P-38. STEP 13: FRONT PANEL W DOORS - P-34, P-35, P-36 Hinges required to attach pieces P-35 & P-36. The opening at the bottom left of piece P-34 is where I have the surge protector located. All electronics should be plugged into it, then you can run just the one power cord from the surge protector out to a wall outlet. STEP 14: ROOF W DOOR - P-39, P-40 Hinges required to attach piece P-40. STEP 15: REVERSE MOUNT PEDAL STAND - (2) P-44, P-45, P-46, P-47 Stand is optional STEP 16: BASE FOR SEAT - (2) P-54, (2) P-55 Location and height should be determined by you. (I'm missing the pictures, I will update when I find them.) STEP 17: MOUNT FOR SHIFTERS - (2) P-48, P-49, P-50, P-51, P-52, P-53 Shifter Mount is optional. Cutting the metal rods that were included with your Fanatec CSR Shifter Set will be required. The length of the metal rods, and depth/specific location of the recessed holes in the wood will need to be determined by you. If you choose to use a different shifter other than the Fanatec CSR Shifter Set, this mount will not work. FINISHED! SIMRIG "EXPLODED" VIEW (I'm missing the picture, I'll update when I find it) ****Please download all attachments. They are all required in order to have all information needed to cut the pieces, and build the rig. Good luck! The most important attachments are the "Layout Tickets" & "Piece Tickets" MBoyerRig-2dPlans.zip Piece Tickets.pdf Layout Tickets.pdf MBoyerRig-PieceMarkPictures.zip
  4. One of the members asked could I design a 8020 rig with style... Most 8020 rigs are made with lots of 90 degree angles, but by designing custom plates it's possible to create an 8020 rig with a bit more style. The custom plates can be made from mild steel, aluminium or stainless steel. Next I will work on the triple monitor stand.
  5. Hey Guys! New to the forum! Just thought i would include pics of my rig. Everything was built by me (except the obvious, haha). I have a wooden base that my wife and I designed and painted (she did the painting). It is carpeted and i also put a car floor mat under the pedals so i don't wear out my carpet. And of course..the GO FAST stickers! It has led lights that light up underneath and a switch under the dash(main kill switch) and a switch in the back to turn the lights off. I use a G27 pedal set moded with Ricmotech load cell brake and i swapped springs for clutch and gas. I use a T300rs wheel base and G25 modded shifter. I also have 2 aura transducers, one under the seat, and one on the pedals powered by a dayton amp. I also built my triple monitor stand..with the exception of the vesa mounts (pole mounted). So far i've only fit 32" tv's on it, but im certain it could fit around 42". Right now i currently run 3x24" 144hz asus monitors. I'm super excited to finally be apart of a simracing forum. Community is a lot bigger/better than i expected! Let me know what you guys think! My pc specs: i7 7700k, Asus Strix GTX 1080, 16gb gskill 3200 ram, 960 evo m.2, 2tb storage drive, Maximus 9 HERO motherboard. (anything else just ask)
  6. Hey all, I have what I believe can be a piece of SIMRacing history up for sale. I am the current owner of 2 VRX Viper Sim Racing Chairs, and they are badge as #002 and #003. These could very well be (other than #001 which would often be the manufacturer's prototype) the 1st 2 rigs VRX put into production for sale. So I am looking to sell #002 or if the offer is right both to keep them together. Prefer someone in the state of FL/GA that could pick up or meet halfway if it makes sense. If you are looking to ship I would have to get a quote and you would pay actual shipping. I will start at offers/bids at $500.00 each, which I feel is very reasonable considering it's a solid rig, and a great talking piece and part of VRX's continued frame base for their current rigs. If anyone is familiar with VRX, please chime in as I would love to hear how these 2 badged rigs came about. Please note: Selling RIG ONLY, Sparco is not included, only in pics so you can visualize a complete rig. I will also update this post with some pics of #003 which is set up in my play room. It does have a cool blue LED light under the chair that in a dark room gives a great ambiance to the room. I also have a used but in working order Buttkicker Concert Sonic Shaker for $175.00 (see pic) These retail new for right around $250 Thanks for the time and please reach out with any questions.
  7. Dont hate me.. I combined the two! Does this make my sim games feel arcadie? lol. It had to fit the theme of the room. And it's far enough along to call "done". But there are a lot more gauges and LED indicators I would like to install. I made a video of it in its current state and would like to share it. I have lots of photos as well, of the build process.. There is a thread "Hydro Thunder sim Cockpit, the build thread". But it has been Archived and closed? So I'll get to the build photos later but for now here is my custom arcade racing machine in its current state . Its all Fanatec controls.. CSR wheel and Clubsport pedals and shifter. My shifter is the H shift only version. The switchable unit was 2 month backorder when I bought it over a year ago. But I love in nonetheless. My button controls are read by a Symprojects JC32 and my gauge control is Symprojects ProGauge. Their products are awesome. And have great support.
  8. So I'm sure you all know Dirt Series has started.. I pre-ordred all dirt content the night before, ready for me to get off the next day and start racing.. I got out the camera just to share my reaction and ability to take on the new terrain now available. I started with the Late Model at Volusia with a Test session...... (you can change the track state.. New track is lame. change it to 40% or so) . Ater a few warm up laps I went into a practice session and turned a dozen laps... After that I jump in the Sprint Car at Eldora and jump straight into a Practice session. My favorite was the Sprint Car.. You can just drive the hell out of it.. Fast though the corners. Barely lifting.. At times seeing how long I could just keep it smashed holding on for dear life lol.. I could recommend both. equally as fun and challenging. But sprint car was my personal favorite so far... But that could easily change with more wheel time. Glad I got both.. I still havent been to all 3 tracks yet.. after I post this Ill check out Williams Grove.. Here is a video I took yesterday of my first laps.. Are there any tips out there or setup tweaks I should know about? Wondering if simple tire pressure changes could change alot.. Still need to drove more with the RF brake active or not to see what I prefer there.. Im definitely stoked for the new dirt racing so far.. And once I get nice consistant laps It will just get better.. Time to stop typing and get to racing!!
  9. Darren Ralph

    My sim - THE WHALE

    This Project is currently on Hold for a few months. It is roughly half complete. Everything was built using hand power tools. Most materials were cheap, excluding plexiglass and vinyls. I'm choosing the VR route, so triples won't apply for my rig. Not getting into details this time around ,but stay posted. PS: Do you like my plexiglass Air foil? Its connected to my G29 brake pedal. Works as a brake light It Glows Red, or any other color programmed.
  10. Ive included some of my build pics, it did not occur to me i would be posting my build until it was done w\and came out so nice costs $70 in pine and 2x4s, nails 2in and 4in $60 seat, got it out of a u pull it yard out of an 90's acura integra $40 in stain and lacqur $10 leds with MANY colors w/ remote build took me about 2 days to complete. all tho it will never be complete seeing how there is always something i could add. i chose to reverse mount the peddles because the oem mount style never felt real to me plus not they so not move around. my pc is a custom build i did end of last yr gtx 1060 overclocked 6gb video card, i7 7600k 4.0 possessor, 16gb of ram. i have only been sim racing for a few months not but im already addicted. i currently racing on a g29 with H shiftier, and also own a g27 full set. on the rig i am using the g29 wheel paired with the g27 shiftier and peddles with no issues. P.S. the only real reason i am posting my rig is to thank everyone on this site for there great ideas and help with my build. thank you all and i hope you enjoy the build.