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Found 8 results

  1. rocafella1978

    in search of CSL ELITE iRacing settings PC

    hi all, i am in search/ trying to help two friends who changed to PC with Fanatec gear, settings for CSL ELITE wheel base. FANATEC driver settings and iRacing in-game settings. their problem is massive oscillation on straights driving and when standing still/ in "N" in pits. thank you all.
  2. Trying to run rFactor 2 with maxed-out graphics settings but just can't do it? Try the following: These settings (especially #2, #3, and #4) are "golden" and have transformed my gaming experience. They do not change the visual quality - to me - from fully maxed-out graphics settings, yet really boost my framerates, and therefore the overall experience, so much! Thanks to these settings, I can keep everything else absolutely maxed-out. 1. Anti Aliasing (Nvidia) - 8xCSAA instead of 4xAA / 16xCSAA instead of 8xAA - Slightly better performance AND image quality. If setting from the Nvidia Control Panel or Nvidia Inspector, then make sure to also set "antialiasing mode" to "override application settings" instead of "application controlled", and make sure the antialiasing in the rF2 configure screen is set to "None". If using AA from rF2 itself, then I believe Lvl 2 = 4xAA, Lvl 3 = 8xCSAA, Lvl 4 = 8xAA, and Lvl 5 = 16xCSAA, but don't quote me on that, plus, it may be different with different GPUs (780 Ti, here). 2. Shadows - "High" (4/5) - Visually speaking, you will hardly notice a difference between this setting and "Max". I don't notice it, I would need to do side by side comparisons to notice, but you sure do get better framerates (especially overall consistency around the track). 3. Shadow Blur - "Fast" (2/4) - Of course not as nice as "Quality" (lvl 4/4), but it also helps very nice with framerate and is hardly noticeable when you're actually playing (unless you play from an exterior cam eg. chase cam). Oddly enough, Fast (2/4) actually looks slightly better than "Optimized" (3/4) according to previous tests (from a build or 2 back). 4. Anisotropic Filtering - "8x" (6/7) - You almost certainly will not notice a visual quality difference between 8x and 16x (you will with 4x, though), and you also will most likely not get a framerate improvement when lapping on your own, but testing shows good framerate imrpovements when multiple cars are on screen (especially at the start, during the first couple laps, lots of cars on screen at once during a replay, etc.). Those settings are the difference between my framerate dropping and stuttering to as low as 45 fps/eye (total 90 fps - I use Nvidia 3D Vision 2), and having them at 60 fps/eye (total 120 fps). Maybe some rare drops to 58 fps/eye (116 total) or something, but hardly. That's a pretty massive gain for 3 settings that literally make no image quality difference to me, at all - and that's while using triple screens w/ multiview! If you still want to raise your framerates without lowering any in-game graphics then you have 2 more options (I recommend to everyone to do #5, regardless!). 5. Pre-Rendered Frames - "1" - In the Nvidia Control Panel (or Nvidia Inspector, I recommend Inspector since it has more adjustments and settings) select your rF2 profile, then change the setting (don't forget to hit Apply/Save/O.K.). Apart from gained fps in rF2, this will also decrease input lag for most users 6. In Nvidia Inspector set the following (I believe you can only adjust two of the following in the standard Nvidia Control Panel, however it may give the same result - fps-wise - but I'm not 100% certain, so I use Nvidia Inspector just to be safe): - Texture filtering - Anisotropic filter optimization: ON - Texture filtering - Anisotropic sample optimization: ON - Texture filtering - Quality: HIGH PERFORMANCE - Texture filtering - Trilinear optimization: ON Still want more framerates while hardly affecting image quality? 7. Circuit Detail - "High" - May achieve a higher and more consistent framerate around the track or at specific points around the track where you may be experiencing framerate drops. You may notice some far-away trackside objects not showing anymore, but it is a very small amount of stuff, and usually far off into the distance rather than actual track-side stuff. It is a very, very small image quality decrease for the amount of potential framerate increase it may bring on certain PCs and certain tracks. 8. Opponent Detail - "Medium" or "High" - May improve framerates when racing against other opponents, including possible large framerate improvements when racing against many opponents. These improvements will give you a very, very nice boost in rFactor 2 framerates without hardly affecting the image quality at all. Thanks for supporting rFactor 2 and ISI (Image Space Incorporated)! Happy racing! Here's an example of great results (I believe the three settings being referred to are #2, #3, and #4)source --> http://isiforums.net/f/showthread.php/20751-LG-34UM95-instead-of-tripples?p=324489&viewfull=1#post324489
  3. hi all, i have X99 i7-5930k with 32GB DDR4 RAM + Nvidia Titan X (12GB Maxwell). (i have Asus Ultra-Wide 3440x1440p @100Hz display) what do i need to set the GPU VIDEO MEMORY to? and MAX SYSTEM MEMORY TO USE? I sometimes see -> FPS/Network Display Box -> in "P" Page fault meter lots of solid gray and then turns yellow, just fraction of a second, but lots of solid gray...? don't know what to make of it. (and i did read this: http://faq.iracing.com/article.php?id=148 but don't understand it) *** you can see screenshot of my VIDEO settings, anything you guys would recommend/ suggest different? change?
  4. Robert Ehrling

    Guide iRacing graphics settings

    My guide for setting up iRacing graphics settings, enjoy and thanks for watching!
  5. hi all, i wanted to ask for some help in getting my OSw Lenze MCS12 12H15 29Nm setup, in some other sims, other than iRacing. i got my OSw from Reimer Motorsports, and install details are mostly and solely for iRacing, which is great but doesn't make me understand, learn and see what is done or how to tweak things, to also be setup for Assetto Corsa, R3E, AMS, rF2 and/ or DiRT Rally. what is needed so far from explanation and instructions is MMos software, but i read also about Granity?? some sort of expertise/ know-how and explanation how to get going would be fantastic, also what to pay attention to, what tweaks do what, how changes in here and there change effects and output from wheel. just to understand it all. I know OSw is a completely new world coming from a Fanatec, Thrustmaster, and Logitech before that. (from consumer grade systems to industry grade servo/ motor) anything anyone would be able to share, would be fantastic and i would be very grateful for.
  6. rocafella1978

    questions for "rFactor 2" guru's

    hi all, have download some of the track, cars and plugins, MODS, since seems to have awesome game content and MODS, which a lot of people recommend trying out as a SIM. I have setup a little and tested around, but feel like i don't understand it all and want to see what your suggestions and recommendations are for 1) video setup settings 2) in game controls settings 3) in game display settings 4) in game audio settings 5) in game video res settings 6) in game difficulty settings have attached my settings, screenshots and details, am grateful for any help and guidance. thank you all SimRacers in this great community!
  7. Hi got this from a viewer of the show Robert Waddell and thought it would be good to share here as well. I have tried a lot of these adjustments myself with a lot of success. I also produced a video that goes over the many (I counted 37) adjustments to get things to feel right. In the video, I only tweaked about ten though..lol.. Felt really good to me though ! Hope this helps ! Edit: Here's my video too.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlOdRTB4njY PROJECT CARS In Game (Global) Wheel Settings for TX Italia with Ferrari GTE Wheel Add-On Tire Force – the percentage of tire-related forces used to influence FFB calculations. Wheel Position Smoothing – the rate of change of an object and the axis about which the object is rotating. Linkage Scale – simulates that the wheel is driven by a non-rigid linkage, namely the driver's arms, as well as play in mass in the linkage itself. Stiffness and damping of that linkage can be controlled here. Relative Adjust – represents torque to the wheel based on the change in torque over time rather than being absolute torque. Relative Adjust Bleed – a time value for bleeding absolute torque back in whereas Relative Adjust Clamp is the value around which this effect operates. 1.0 is a good starting point. Scoops – decreases low forces more and high forces less, thereby increasing the slope of force where some devices reduce the slope of force. Scoop Knee – the force level where the force changes from shallow to steep. Scoop Reduction – refers to the input reduction below the knee. Above the knee the force slope is increased such that, at 1.0 input force, the output force is 1.0. Soft Clipping – compresses all force within range of the wheel, although the stronger the force, the more it is squeezed into the higher force range. The Half Input setting is the signal that will become 0.5 as an output signal with 0.0 turning it off. Full Output – setting that determines the expected maximum force that will hit the soft clipper, and rescales such that that force outputs at 1.0. This means force above this setting will again clip. Per Car (in the garage for each car) Wheel Settings for TX Italia with Ferrari GTE Wheel Add-On General FFB strength Output strength of the FFB to the wheel after it has been calculated by the FFB engine. This is basically the final 'volume' adjustment of the FFB. This means that if the FFB is clipping, turning the FFB strength down won't help anymore. Tyre Force This is the strength of the tyre contribution to the FFB, which is also the main contributor to the FFB. If the FFB is too high or too low for all cars, you can adjust this value to get it equally stronger/weaker for all cars. The car-specific settings These you want to adjust when the FFB of one car is good while for the next car it's too weak or strong (or has a wrong subjective balance of the individual force contributors). Spindle Master Scale: this scales the forces below it equally up and down, i.e. it's the FFB 'volume knob' specifically for that car. Turn it down if the FFB is clipping, and up if it's too weak. Fx: this is the FFB component representing the longitudinal force on the tyre contact patch. This should determine FFB when accelerating or braking, but I haven't really experimented with this one yet. Fy: this is the FFB component representing the lateral force on the tyre contact patch. Very important for feeling mass transfer/inertia of the car when cornering. Fz: this is the FFB component representing the vertical force on the tyre contact patch. This plays an important part in the 'road feel' of the FFB, i.e. when going over bumps in the road. Mz: this is the FFB component representing the twisting force of the wheels, i.e. rotation along the vertical axis of the wheel. It is the self-aligning force of the wheels into the driving direction and is most important for getting the 'classic' feel of the FFB getting lighter when the front tyres lose grip. So when you want a particular force to stand out in the FFB, raise its relative contribution to the total FFB, and after that adjust the Spindle Master Scale value if necessary to get the FFB stay within the full range (i.e. not clipping or getting too weak). ___________________________ Notes: 4/16/15 The most important parameter to check that it's set to 100 is the Force Feedback Strength parameter in the main controller menu. It defaults for many wheels at 75 and some wheels at 50 which is completely wrong. Then make sure FFB damping saturation (the next parameter under FFB strength) is set to zero. Or: UPDATE actually I just reversed the games ffb and the TM profiler,. so 100 in TM and 70 in game.. and theres no difference. feels as good as above. After this I suggest using Real Gain parameter (first value to 0.98, second to 0.1 and last value again t 0.98) unless you have a direct drive wheel (2000$+ wheel).. or even the Fanatec CSW v2. Then finally remove all smoothing in the car setup FFB menu. All cars default to 0.1 Fx Smoothing which is stupid. Then I suggest setting the values for most cars like this (note that his is very subjective though. You need to adapt the FFB to your own type of driving): Fx = 48 Fy = 44 Fz = 54 Mz = 100 Then the top parameter (master scale) to your preferred setting. I usually have it at around 34 to 40, depending on how heavy FFB I want. Finally one of the most important and one of the most difficult to understand and tweak parameters is called Spindle Arm Angle (or just spindle arm). You can ONLY find it in each car's setup screen when you are NOT in the actual practice/qualifying/race session. So from the main menu go into car setup editing and you will find it as the last value. Many cars have this setting quite nicely set but some cars have it completely wrong. This setting is key to getting a proper feel of the forces through the whole range of slip angles. If you set the value too low you'll have a very tightly centered wheel with little FFB once you cross over optimum slip angle. If you set the value too high the opposite happens.. the wheel is very light and "slow" in the middle and gets progressively stronger the more you turn the wheel. Set it just right and your wheel will be giving you amazing detail. EDIT: One last note: My way of tweaking FFB is purely based on laptimes. I tweak until I get the ultimate consistent laptimes. I don't care at all about trying to get a wheel to feel "realistic" (which would be completely dead in a normal car) nor do I try to get it "heavy and bumpy". I just tweak it for ultimate important physics information fidelity. I want to know exactly when I'm not at optimum grip levels. This is the only fairly OBJECTIVE way of tweaking FFB because I can directly measure it. I drive 5 laps around Silverstone with default FFB. Check my laptimes. I then tweak the FFB and drive 5 more laps then compare the laptimes. Did I do better? Did I do worse? It's like tweaking a car setup. FFB can have a HUGE impact on your laptimes, especially if it is "wrongly set". It can truly work against you and make the car feel very odd if it's badly setup. But get it just right and you can vastly improve the laptimes and as an added bonus you wont be spinning and crashing as often either. 5/6/15 1) I recommend setting the ingame FFB strength setting to 100 (very very important!). Then instead set the FFB strength in the Thrustmaster CONTROL PANEL between 60 - 75, depending on how much of a workout you want. 2) Also make sure to experiment with the car setup FFB settings that you find in the garage/edit screen of each car. The most important setting there is called Spindle Arm Angle and can ONLY be found when you are not on the track/in the actual gameplay part but rather in the main menu (I have no idea why they didn't include it in the in-game garage/setup screen). The spindle arm angle is set a bit weird on many cars. For instance the Ginetta G40 has it default to 15 I think but it works much better when set to 21. I also usually tweak the Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz settings to something like this: Fx = 80 Fy = 50 to 70 range Fz = 60 to 70 range Mz = 100 to 110 range Then also set the Spindle arm multiplier (first setting on this screen) to something higher than the default 26. I usually end up at around 32 to 40, depending on how much down force the car produces (more down force = stronger FFB) 5/7/15 By the way, which car are you driving? I keep mentioning this but I'll say it again: one of the most important FFB settings is Spindle Arm Angle and it can be found in the car setup screen (but NOT from the on-track car setup screen!!). It's set separately for each and every car. Example: Ginetta G40 feels extremely stiff and hard centered on my TX 458 with it's default settings. So I made these changes (note, these are from memory! I have yet to drive the release version of Project CARS.. stuck with too much work still ): Spindle Master Scale = 36 Fx = 100 Fy = 60 Fz = 60 Mz = 110 Spindle Arm Angle (the last parameter in the FFB tab in the car setup) = 21 (instead of the default 15). Please experiment with the spindle arm angle as it has such a dramatic impact on absolutely everything. Many cars I feel do not have it set optimally yet. bmanic @ www.racedepartment.com 5/7/15 guys its easy.... I have a t300 GTE. Ive set FFB in Thrustmaster panel to 100 (as I do all my sims) I also set in Wheel Pcars menu FFB 100 Dampening 15 Tyre Force 100 Then in each car specific FFB I set the master lower. For instance the Formula a car (f1) has the most grip so it produces the most FFB, ive lowered that Master gain to 10, and it feel lovely.
  8. Okay. Just got a fanatec CSR Elite. Great Wheel. Just looking for some suggestions on the wheel and game settings for Project Cars if you all would be so kind I checked the forums and I can't find a similar topic (surprisingly) hence starting one here. Cheers, Mark.