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  1. A few weeks ago my son switched from his old G25 wheel/shifter combo to a brand new Thrustmaster TX + F1 addon wheel. In the process he lost the G25 shifter that he used mainly for Nascar and MX5 racing. To get a working shifter, there were several choices: Buying a new shifter: obvious but expensive Use the G25 shifter connected to the wheel without using the wheel: inelegant! Buying a Leo Bodnar interface ( cheap and easy Build our own interface: even cheaper and more versatile We chose the latter option to have the best possible control on the gear shifting logic: the stock G25 shifting logic is somewhat buggy, leading to quite frequent mis-shifts. Having full control of the software also allows adding some new functions: a handbrake mode seems the most obvious as the G25 shifter has all the necessary hardware. In the following posts I will explain all the steps required to build a G25 shifter to USB interface, based on a Teensy 2.0 board. This writeup is split into 5 chapters, each chapter being one post: Chapter 1: Hardware and tools required Chapter 2: Wiring and canning Chapter 3: Software Chapter 4: Tests and configuration Chapter 5: Conclusion
  2. Actual value ~$140 Selling for $99 email me at [email protected]
  3. Ugh... I took a chance that all the negative press about Fanatec's poor quality and customer service was finally behind them and bought a complete Clubsport system. I love the products, they are all incredibly good in operation... but my Clubsport Shifter SQ v1.5 just broke while I was driving! I had it in sequential mode, and there was a snap, and the stick stopped returning to center. It feels like the centering spring inside broke or something. Has anyone else experienced this, or is there a fix online? I've searched and I can't find anything about it. Moving the lever from sequential to H pattern feels a little looser than it used to, but switching it to H and SEQ made no difference, it won't work on SEQ. (I'm having trouble with the Clubsport Wheel v2 as well... it's started making a high pitched squealing noise whenever it is on. Needless to say, I am not happy. How can they charge this much and have such poor build quality? These things are WAY too expensive to be having all kinds of problems barely a year after purchase.) *EDIT* I opened the internals up and figured out the problem. Following is a picture of the internals of the shifter as they are SUPPOSED to be. The two metal bars in the middle are the spring that forces the stick to recenter when in SEQ mode. The springs have popped loose and are now sitting as I drew, with the orange arrows showing which one has moved to where. I can probably fix this... I hope, but I'm still wondering if anyone else has had this problem? It's ridiculous that the spring isn't properly captured and has any chance AT ALL of coming loose! If I do fix it, I'm going to also have to try and figure out a way to better capture the spring, or I suspect it will just do this again, probably easier now that it has done it once... Clubsport shifter spring as it should be, and as it is having popped loose.