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Found 23 results

  1. Hi guys, I really dig mo86's version of the load cell mod as displayed here: … aaand I want to adapt it. And while I'm at it, i'd like to ditch the extra connector box, put the load cell amp directly into the T3PA case and connect it to the original brake wires to achive a clean overall appearance. The question is: Will it fit? I guess there should be enough room for that amp, but before taking my pedals apart I'd like to be sure about that. Unfortunately I was not able to find an image of an open T3PA case resp. google images is full of pro models. Can any of you guys help me out?
  2. Here i want to share with you my F1 T150 modded steering wheel. The idea is to use the base of T150 Steering wheel , cutted of external , and add f1 plate on it. So i realize with laser cut an f1 plate 2.5mm Next realize wood handle After paint, carboon vinil wrap Next with a USB numeric pad for pc, i made and added button panel To have a 3d effect i create with 3dprinter a mini hill to put on center of steering wheel. But this is not on now. I put them as soon I buy label for buttons and create label for button panel, but this is not on now. I put them tonight. Photo are at now.
  3. I just completed my Thrustmaster F1 wheel mod using a SIMR-F1 display. This display is really close to the MacLaren PCU-6D display used in real F1 cars, except for the orange colored lateral displays. The SIMR-F1 is HUGE and barely fits the Thrustmaster F1 wheel, but in the end I'm really satisfied with the result: The wheel now has: * 1 SIMR-F1 display - 15 LED rpm display (5 green, 5 red, 5 blue) - 6 additional LEDs (pitlane, optimal shift point, overheat ...) - left display panel (rpm, water temp, oil temp, current lap, remaining laps, laps before pit ...) - center display dedicated to current gear - right display panel (best laptime, optimal laptime, delta to best, delta to opti ...) * 8 buttons - stock buttons connected to the display (k, n, pit, pump, pl, drs, +10, -1) * 5 up-down encoders - 2 stock encoder connected to the display (dif in, chrg) - 3 additional encoder (mix, grp, trq) * 3 12 position switches - left display panel variable selection (boost) - right display panel variable selection (rev) - Ferrari knob (MF) * 3 3 way switches - 3 stock 2 way switches are replaced (bo, start, wet) * 2 d-pads - both d-pads are connected together * 2 paddle shifters - stock paddle switches connected to the display On the SIMR-F1 the following inputs and outputs are used: - 30 digital inputs (buttons, encoders) out of 32 - 3 12 position switches out of 9 - 0 analog inputs out of 2 - 0 external LEDs out of 7 All the hardware, software, tools and steps involved to complete this mod are commented in the following post: http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/12982-thrustmaster-f1-wheel-mod-with-simr-f1-display-switches-and-encoders Here are some short videos with the wheel in action on iRacing: In race conditions:
  4. Hello everyone, I just wanted to present my T300RS wheel modification I just finished, if it can help someone or just give ideas for your own project. I used a GT2i 34cm wheel: ( https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00TFAICUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ), some switches ( https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B074XDQL7Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ), made some parts with Tinkercad then "3dprinted" them (switches supports, paddles fixations, wheel adapter) and also used some threaded rod with lock nuts. None of the original parts were altered or modified excepted solders I made on the board. No keys were lost: I kept SE an ST original keys, but linked all missing ones to my new switches. Yellow: 3 and 4, Red: 5 and 6. Blue: L2 R2. Center: up down left right and the most important !!!!! the Green for the horn !!!! (PS key ). Paddles are still on 1 and 2.
  5. goldeneye76

    G29 Mod questions

    Hey guys, first-time poster here, and I am looking to mod my G29 steering wheel with a real steering wheel and move all of the buttons to a button box. I am thinking that the red rotary dial on the G29 is a rotary encoder and is buttons 22 and 23. Can anyone confirm my assumption on this? And if that is correct does anyone have any information on what rotary encoder would be required to replace it and a wiring diagram for the board, as I cannot find any online? thanks for your time.
  6. PLGuerra

    Xbox One Head Tracking!

    Hey guys, I am new to this forum but I've been following inside sim racing for a while now on YouTube. I have recently come up with an idea for head tracking on Xbox (maybe PS4). I have attached a video of a prototype. There is still a lot of work to do and this is not the final idea but this test seems promising. I plan to release an open source version using this servo method for the community to work with and also a production version using an alternative wireless method without using a servo. Would you all be interested in something like this? What do you all think of the idea? Head Tracking For Xbox one YouTube
  7. Hi again, I have the oportunity to buy a used G27 modded pedals with Nixim mod + hall sensors + Leo Bodnar cable for 100 and for the other hand, the CSL Elite pedals without the load cell for 70. Which is the best option?
  8. hi guys, I have an issue that has me stumped. I have been trying to wire up a hand brake on my Logitech G27 by following a few guides like the one i have linked below: i have soldered the board twice and backpedaled out after the software driver failed to detect the controller correctly in windows. removing the mod restored the system to a working condition. One thing that i'm not entirely sure of is how the hand brake needs to get wired up on its side and I'm not finding many resources to guide me on that subject. I'm currently trying to use the led light switch that is on the hand brake. the switch is actuated when the brake is pulled to create a circuit. I connected the wires to opposing sides. I then ran one side of the switch to each solder point on the board outlined in the video above. here is a picture of the hand brake led light switch i tried to wire up for the mod. The brake is currently in a down position, however if pulled the screw makes contact with the other side of the switch completing the circuit. FYI, the hand brake I am trying to use was pulled out of a scrap yard from a Volvo s60. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  9. Hey all... Curious if anyone knows what the unused pins are for on the PCB inside the BMW wheel. See attached photos for labeling. I'm hoping to do some modding on the wheel and it would be good to know if those pins can be used for anything. My plans are to hopefully add buttons, but I suppose I could just repurpose a couple buttons I never seem to use. Also, if anyone has any experience with the PCB and would be willing to share what they know that would be cool too. Thanks, J
  10. Hi Guys and gals, I'm picking up some HE's and selling my Fanatec Clubsport V2 pedals. Perfect working condition. All original box and accessories included. Hardly used in last year. They have a brake spring mod to provide more resistance and consistency in braking. Mugen MBX7 Eco - shock and spring upgrade I'll post pics later tonight. I'm in the Toronto area. Can ship but buyer pays for shipping. Usually around 25-30$ CDN if in Canada. PM me an offer. Cheers
  11. Hi Modded DFGT in progress.
  12. After installing the display and the encoders in my Ferrari Addon I decided to make a big mod this steering wheel. Follows the finished project: 1) First Project I decided to replace the original buttons with nkk buttons, identical to those used on the steering wheels of the F1 cars. I'll remove the pads and replace them with buttons. The pads are to be placed in front of the gear levers. I'm also going to apply carbon fiber film through hydrography. The Bodnar D-Pads installed in new place.
  13. Fanatec CSR “A2” mod I have a CSR wheel and I am more than satisfied with its feedback strength. The downside is I totally hate the “toy” wheel thats attached. I needed automotive grade, quick-change race wheels with buttons plates With a few pieces from ebay and the local Radio Shack (and weeks of trial and error) I was able to come up with a simple and very inexpensive way to make a quick change wheel solution for my CSR wheel. I made sure to get those controls out of the wheel and onto somewhere accessible while keeping it looking somewhat presentable. I took a piece of ABS and duplicated the mount plate from the wheel then screwed it to the board and used a 10-conductor cable to connect it up back to the base. For the wheel mount I used automotive grade quick release adapters from ebay and the CSR wheel adapter from SRH. With the neck of the CSR being open I was able to fit a 20-pin ATX power adapter and wiring harness through it, and connect it to the DSD button matrix board using the arduino pins. This lets me use 10 buttons per wheel in any configuration and the wiring for doing this is super easy with buttons only using 2 conductors each (top/bottom row = button conductor 1&2 x 10 rows across = 20 pins) and I still have 22 buttons to make another button box from on the DSD matrix. Using #10/32 3” screws from home depot (same thread as steering hubs) I was able to space out just enough room for the male ATX connector on the base sandwiched between the DSD & quick release and the same goes for the wheel side using the female ATX connector about 1-1.5” and just cut off the excess. the stiffness of the atx connector wire, which I though would be an issue at first turned out to work in my favor. It allows the wheel to connect without needing any fingers or messing around in between the mount and it links and unlinks better than I EVER could planned for. The result is now I can turn any wheel i want into a auto grade race wheel for only a few pieces of wires, switches and screws. I cut the wheel plate from a piece of ABS plastic using a Dremel and covered it in some carbon fiber vinyl. The total materials to do this is around only $25 per wheel, maybe less. (plus DSD’s / SRH fees of $60 for the adapter and USB button matrix) I’ve already put 100 laps on it, its SUPER solid and I love the options of wheels I have now for this CSR. I can close the case back up but the fan really gets to buzzing during the long races so i’ll leave it open and see if that helps keep her cool. I have 4 wheels and also a SRW-S1 formula wheel on it that I modded! I’ll have to make a post on that later. Questions, comments, concerns? I'm all ears. Thanks for reading.
  14. Ferrari Challenge 2011 V1.1 Chage log v1.1: - Attempt to fix flickering (better results on 1.1 update) - Reworked body shaders - Small textures update - Slightly better brake torque Download link: https://mega.nz/#!MVUzRDBA!IqPu87aaNIGgDdaK98bArzPbzPXX4SJwumGkeacWIFA For Steam users you can download the mod on my workshop: http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=558154547
  15. Hello all Thought I'd share my CSW modding details, in case there are others who own the kit and feel restricted by the provided button pods, that come with the hubs. While existing pods are fine, if you tend to swap rims several times a day, using different button arrangements, even with multiple hubs, of which I have 3, the default set just isn't enough. As soon as he hubs became available some time ago, I began looking to mod the system with quick connectors to button plates with my own button arrangements, that would avoid the need to open up the hubs every time I want to swap a rim on any of them. First, it took me some time to find the right JST connectors for the HUB's PCB sockets. Took me a long time and a lot of experimenting with a few connectors that didn't work/fit. Micro ZH 1.5 4-Pin JST Connectors http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230865243993 These fit just fine, but I would still recommend cutting off its side tongues/ridges (that slot into female socket side grooves) with a sharp knife, otherwise they will be a bit too tight, as it's not a 100% the same grove system on Fanatec's and these JSTs. Now, you want to extend these, with the external connector sockets. I chose these ones at first, for half a year or so www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330991782233 only to replace them later with these, as they look and work a lot better and easier to plug/unplug quickly http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-sets-Male-Female-4-Pin-Connector-with-wire-for-5050-3528-RGB-Led-Driver-Strip-/262154789544?hash=item3d09a4a2a8 They come with male and female wired ends, the latter being directly wired to the JST connectors in the first link (1.5mm pitch) and male halves wired to your buttons. So as you can see it's pretty simple. You are just extending the internal HUBs sockets outside of the hub enclosure, so yuo can connect various multi-button plates as they are needed for the car you are driving at the time. Here are a few, but not all of the button plates I use. Please note - the GT OMP wheel has also the knob implemented, but being unable to wire it well with a few connectors i wasted my money on (USB3 and similar) I gave up (for now) trying to extend its 10 pin connector, after an unsuccessful (partial success really, due to a sloppy wiring job) attempt to extend that too. It just sits there filling the hole I cut for it initially So there you go - a simple solution, if like myself you would like to use a bit more customised rims with your own button plates connected to the hub, instead of external 3rd party PCBs Same principle applies to wiring buttons direct to the rim, for some of them it's the best way. I am using this on 3 rims that simply would look bad with a button plate Of course there's also an issue with paddle shifters attached to the hub - you wouldn't want to have them on, if you are driving a gated manual shifter or sequential stick cars instead. You could of course, use a similar to the above system of mine - 2-pin JSTs for the paddle shifter connectors (1.5mm pitch ones, just like 4-pin ones) to extend them outside of a hub, but you'd also need to attach/detach the paddle switches. In my case, having 3 hubs really helps with this, as I have one with permanently mounted GT paddles, 1 with small paddles for small/formula types of rims and one without any. With this system, you can have multiple rims setup to suit different cars. After a year and a bit with this, having accumulated 3 hubs and 15 rims, I cannot believe I used to race an old lotus or a cobra with a BMW GT2 rim - that is in my eyes a blasphemy and should be punishable by death! Usually it takes 2.5 minutes quickest and up to 5-7 minutes (in a worst rim case scenario) to remount a rim and its button plate, so while not instant, it's still pretty bloody quick Additional infos, in case anyone's interested. For button plates I used A4 sized 3mm carbon fibre sheets, which are priced rather reasonably (about £20) and you can make 2-3 plates from one sheet/use the remains for paddles etc. Buttons from various eBay outlets, but I'm getting tired of seeing the most common plastic buttons used on everyone's button boxes and wheels these days (pictured here at the bottom part of sparco and momo rims plate). They are great, esp the feel of them, but far too common, so I tried to find alternatives and still believe FREX's buttons are the best aesthetically, even if they cost a bit more. Hope this helps someone like me. If anyone done anything similar already, feel free to show off here
  16. Hi Guys, I have a couple of Brake Pedal Mod, the one seen on This Week Inside Sim Racing, September 2nd edition (24min). All Sim Racers who bought this little brake upgrade are very statisfied and the most important comments is about accuracy and brake feeling. Check my facebook page www.facebook.com/thebrakemod or visit my website at www.thebrakemod.com for more information or read comments. I receive excellent review for it everyday, please read the comments on my website. It is easy to install it, you only have to screw the mod in the T500RS the realistic brake mod threaded socket and it's done. It will help you feel your T500 brake pedal progression and resistance like a real car as it become harder under your foot pressure. It helps to be more accurate on track, improve your lap time, avoid wheels lock and feel the pressure given to your brakes. The price for this little upgrade is only CAD $17 + shipping. I'm shipping worldwide the same day as I receive your order. Combine quantities is available on special request, just send your inquiries via email at [email protected] Enjoy the new progressive feeling on your T500 pedal set. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjEzS6EMQYs&t=24m18s
  17. Hi Iam looking for paddle shifters that will work with my 320mm deep dish wheel on the g27 . somthing like in the picture with a bend to it and long wrc type .
  18. Selling my heavily modded G27 base and H shifter. No pedals though as I'm using them on my T500rs.Upgraded 30 volt power supply, will include original power supply as well.Will include spare brass encoder ring.Separate switchable 12v power for 120mm cooling fan.Replaced front shaft bearing to reduce play.Removed casing to reduce footprint, but will need to hard mount the base and shifter as I've removed the screw clamps.Added power switch to base and moved pedal and shifter connections to rear of base.Aluminium shift knob fitted and increased detent spring pressure and centralizing spring force.Everything works, and FFB is noticeably stronger and quicker than the stock G27, but will probably suit someone who already has a set of Logitech pedals or who would like some spares.Asking $150 AUD posted Australia only. Link to photos https://goo.gl/photos/APaq9NmAtkLQHEBR9
  19. Thrustmaster T500 pedals with conical brake mod $120 shipped Thanks!
  20. TechnoZebra

    HELP!!! CSR Wheel

    Hello all!! So a few weeks ago, I decided I wanted to mod my CSR wheel with a new rim and the wheel adapter from SRH. So i took apart the wheel rim to figure out how it would work. I left the wheel disassembled for a couple weeks. Then I decided to put it back together and now it will not work. When I turn on the wheel, the screen does not light up, and the self-calibration does not finish. It starts making a high pitched noise that sounds like the motors dont have enough power to move the wheel. Then if i try to move it manually, it starts making erratic movements. Is it possible that the PCB cable got unplugged from the main board and that is causing none of the buttons to work and the screen not to power? What could be the cause of the calibration issue? PLEASE HELP!!! Fanatec customer support was unable to help me with my issue, and the wheel is not under warranty since i took it apart.
  21. After I sold my old G27, I ordered the T300 Ferrari integral. Waiting to come i was looking on eBay for other thrustmaster stuff and found a tx 458 Italia steering wheel in a fairly good price. So since I'm a Ferrari fan I decided to buy it. 7 days after, I received the wheel in perfect condition. As pry wondering what to do to look more real I started looking on the internet for various versions of the 458 Italia to get ideas.A friend of mine makes carbon fiber hydrographics. I told him the concept. After discussion and some own ideas we started the modding. First things first . . . Disassembling. . . . We came with the idea to combine the wheel of a 458 Italia lauda edition with the Italian flag from a 458 Italia speciale aperta. So we began. . . . . . And finally . . . . . . . . The stripes and the flag are stickers. On top of them we painted 3 layers of high gloss clear glaze the whole wheel. Very happy with it. Now i am still waiting for my Ferrari integral. . . . . . .