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Found 15 results

  1. Hi guys, I really dig mo86's version of the load cell mod as displayed here: … aaand I want to adapt it. And while I'm at it, i'd like to ditch the extra connector box, put the load cell amp directly into the T3PA case and connect it to the original brake wires to achive a clean overall appearance. The question is: Will it fit? I guess there should be enough room for that amp, but before taking my pedals apart I'd like to be sure about that. Unfortunately I was not able to find an image of an open T3PA case resp. google images is full of pro models. Can any of you guys help me out?
  2. Here i want to share with you my F1 T150 modded steering wheel. The idea is to use the base of T150 Steering wheel , cutted of external , and add f1 plate on it. So i realize with laser cut an f1 plate 2.5mm Next realize wood handle After paint, carboon vinil wrap Next with a USB numeric pad for pc, i made and added button panel To have a 3d effect i create with 3dprinter a mini hill to put on center of steering wheel. But this is not on now. I put them as soon I buy label for buttons and create label for button panel, but this is not on now. I put them tonight. Photo are at now.
  3. After installing the display and the encoders in my Ferrari Addon I decided to make a big mod this steering wheel. Follows the finished project: 1) First Project I decided to replace the original buttons with nkk buttons, identical to those used on the steering wheels of the F1 cars. I'll remove the pads and replace them with buttons. The pads are to be placed in front of the gear levers. I'm also going to apply carbon fiber film through hydrography. The Bodnar D-Pads installed in new place.
  4. Hey all,I recorded this video a few weeks ago and have only made it public now because I wanted to thoroughly test the wheel and make sure there are no issues with it. This is actually my second TGT, it's a warranty replacement for the first one that died after developing this 'clickiness'. This TGT is now out of warranty. I imagine there are more of you out there with this problem, so I decided to try and fix it myself and make a video tutorial out of it. I've made it through a few RaceOnOZ ACC races (90 min enduro, 2 x 30 min races), a bunch of practice and 8 stages of Dirt Rally 2. Good news is that it's completely quiet, and the issues I had with it being loud and clicky are gone. Please read the text under the video before attempting this upgrade / fix.DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES YOU MAY INCUR TO YOURSELF, OTHERS, YOUR PROPERTY OR YOUR THRUSTMASTER T-GT IF YOU MODIFY IT. YOU WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY BY ATTEMPTING TO MODIFY YOUR THRUSTMASTER T-GT. THIS VIDEO IS FOR DEMONSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY AND IS IN NO WAY AN ENDORSEMENT TO FOLLOW THE PROCEDURE IN THIS VIDEO.My Thrustmaster T-GT is a great wheel base, however it's recently gotten very noisy. It sounded like the cooling fan was clicking, so I decided to open it up and do something about it as it was out of warranty. This is actually my second wheel base, the first one had to go back under warranty when it stopped working after developing this clicking.Big thanks to Sim Racing Garage's original review of the T-GT, only through that video did I have any idea of how to open the wheel base up. It is linked here: The fan I use to replace the cooling fan in the video is the Noctua NF A4x20 5V, the product page of which is here:https://noctua.at/en/nf-a4x20-5v
  5. Finally I have released my Bokeh Pack in Need For Speed, over 75 Custom bokehs, all with their own preview for easy selecting. Enjoy~ Clicky Me! c:
  6. Hi people. I’ve read and watched a lot of tutorials on how to replace the buttons on the F1 wheel. However, I can not find replacement rotary encoders. So what I wonder is, could people post links to where you bought your replacement parts? All help much appreciated
  7. I just completed my Thrustmaster F1 wheel mod using a SIMR-F1 display. This display is really close to the MacLaren PCU-6D display used in real F1 cars, except for the orange colored lateral displays. The SIMR-F1 is HUGE and barely fits the Thrustmaster F1 wheel, but in the end I'm really satisfied with the result: The wheel now has: * 1 SIMR-F1 display - 15 LED rpm display (5 green, 5 red, 5 blue) - 6 additional LEDs (pitlane, optimal shift point, overheat ...) - left display panel (rpm, water temp, oil temp, current lap, remaining laps, laps before pit ...) - center display dedicated to current gear - right display panel (best laptime, optimal laptime, delta to best, delta to opti ...) * 8 buttons - stock buttons connected to the display (k, n, pit, pump, pl, drs, +10, -1) * 5 up-down encoders - 2 stock encoder connected to the display (dif in, chrg) - 3 additional encoder (mix, grp, trq) * 3 12 position switches - left display panel variable selection (boost) - right display panel variable selection (rev) - Ferrari knob (MF) * 3 3 way switches - 3 stock 2 way switches are replaced (bo, start, wet) * 2 d-pads - both d-pads are connected together * 2 paddle shifters - stock paddle switches connected to the display On the SIMR-F1 the following inputs and outputs are used: - 30 digital inputs (buttons, encoders) out of 32 - 3 12 position switches out of 9 - 0 analog inputs out of 2 - 0 external LEDs out of 7 All the hardware, software, tools and steps involved to complete this mod are commented in the following post: http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/12982-thrustmaster-f1-wheel-mod-with-simr-f1-display-switches-and-encoders Here are some short videos with the wheel in action on iRacing: In race conditions:
  8. Hello everyone, I just wanted to present my T300RS wheel modification I just finished, if it can help someone or just give ideas for your own project. I used a GT2i 34cm wheel: ( https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00TFAICUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ), some switches ( https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B074XDQL7Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ), made some parts with Tinkercad then "3dprinted" them (switches supports, paddles fixations, wheel adapter) and also used some threaded rod with lock nuts. None of the original parts were altered or modified excepted solders I made on the board. No keys were lost: I kept SE an ST original keys, but linked all missing ones to my new switches. Yellow: 3 and 4, Red: 5 and 6. Blue: L2 R2. Center: up down left right and the most important !!!!! the Green for the horn !!!! (PS key ). Paddles are still on 1 and 2.
  9. goldeneye76

    G29 Mod questions

    Hey guys, first-time poster here, and I am looking to mod my G29 steering wheel with a real steering wheel and move all of the buttons to a button box. I am thinking that the red rotary dial on the G29 is a rotary encoder and is buttons 22 and 23. Can anyone confirm my assumption on this? And if that is correct does anyone have any information on what rotary encoder would be required to replace it and a wiring diagram for the board, as I cannot find any online? thanks for your time.
  10. PLGuerra

    Xbox One Head Tracking!

    Hey guys, I am new to this forum but I've been following inside sim racing for a while now on YouTube. I have recently come up with an idea for head tracking on Xbox (maybe PS4). I have attached a video of a prototype. There is still a lot of work to do and this is not the final idea but this test seems promising. I plan to release an open source version using this servo method for the community to work with and also a production version using an alternative wireless method without using a servo. Would you all be interested in something like this? What do you all think of the idea? Head Tracking For Xbox one YouTube
  11. Hi again, I have the oportunity to buy a used G27 modded pedals with Nixim mod + hall sensors + Leo Bodnar cable for 100 and for the other hand, the CSL Elite pedals without the load cell for 70. Which is the best option?
  12. hi guys, I have an issue that has me stumped. I have been trying to wire up a hand brake on my Logitech G27 by following a few guides like the one i have linked below: i have soldered the board twice and backpedaled out after the software driver failed to detect the controller correctly in windows. removing the mod restored the system to a working condition. One thing that i'm not entirely sure of is how the hand brake needs to get wired up on its side and I'm not finding many resources to guide me on that subject. I'm currently trying to use the led light switch that is on the hand brake. the switch is actuated when the brake is pulled to create a circuit. I connected the wires to opposing sides. I then ran one side of the switch to each solder point on the board outlined in the video above. here is a picture of the hand brake led light switch i tried to wire up for the mod. The brake is currently in a down position, however if pulled the screw makes contact with the other side of the switch completing the circuit. FYI, the hand brake I am trying to use was pulled out of a scrap yard from a Volvo s60. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  13. Hey all... Curious if anyone knows what the unused pins are for on the PCB inside the BMW wheel. See attached photos for labeling. I'm hoping to do some modding on the wheel and it would be good to know if those pins can be used for anything. My plans are to hopefully add buttons, but I suppose I could just repurpose a couple buttons I never seem to use. Also, if anyone has any experience with the PCB and would be willing to share what they know that would be cool too. Thanks, J
  14. Hi Guys and gals, I'm picking up some HE's and selling my Fanatec Clubsport V2 pedals. Perfect working condition. All original box and accessories included. Hardly used in last year. They have a brake spring mod to provide more resistance and consistency in braking. Mugen MBX7 Eco - shock and spring upgrade I'll post pics later tonight. I'm in the Toronto area. Can ship but buyer pays for shipping. Usually around 25-30$ CDN if in Canada. PM me an offer. Cheers