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Hello everyone. I am hoping you could help with the problem I've been having with the Thrustmaster TX (Ferrari 548 edition) wheel. Any help would be appreciated before I go searching for the replacement. I had the wheel for a few years and it is now out of warranty. I use the wheel with Xbox One and have been playing Forza 6/7 and PC 1/2 over the last couple of years. Problems started occurring with Forza 7 and are now happening in all the games. Initially Forza 7 was set to FFB @ 100% so maybe that is where things went wrong. I turned it down to 50% now but that did not help. Initial symptoms were loss of force feedback and inability to calibrate. Recently the wheel connects to Xbox but does not even atttempt to calibrate and none of the buttons (except for the Xbox button) are working. I run Motocalibration to reset the wheel. What I've tried so far: 1.) Breakaway USB cable - replaced with new. No impact. 2.) Configured fan to run at all times. 3.) Opened the wheel and checked the fan operation and general heat. Heatsink around the motor is barely warm. Don't think this is overheating issue. 4.) Motocalibration - this actually brings the wheel back for probably 20 minutes after which force feedback slowly goes away and wheel is back to unresponsive. 5.) Turned the FFB in Forza 7 to 50% from 100% originally. Symptoms definitely point to what others and Thrustmaster described as overheating but I see no correlation with the actual temperature of the motor heatsink. Unless the sensor that tracks that went bad... Any suggestions on what else I can try would be appreciated before I scrap this thing and look for another wheel.

I'm sell my Thrustmaster TMX wheel and pedals. It is a force feedback wheel. Comes with original pedal set and the T3PA pedal set with conical brake mod. I purchased these new and only used them for a few months. Everything is in very good working condition. Asking $160.

Just bought a Logitech G29, currently on a PS4 playing Project Cars. I adjusted force feedback to user "jack spade" adjustment. How's the force feedback suppose to work in GT3 class? I'm tuning the car like crazy, can't really tell any difference at all. Doesn't matter whether springs are super soft or super hard, max bump stops or no bump stops at all. Currently my lap times are 1 sec off in comparison to using a controller. I have Asetto Corsa, but on PS4 it just looks ridiculous. Absolutely no realism at all, like a game from the 80's. Sound is just as bad, waste of money.

Does anybody here have a good force feedback setup for the Porsche 911 Carrera wheel in Assetto Corsa? When driving down a straight there isn't much feeling except the wheel will jerk to the left or right every few yards. It feels ok in the corners but overall just not very good at all. This wheel feels great in GTR 2 and in RaceRoom. I remember having a similar problem in some game and being able to fix it but I can't remember the game or the fix. The list of supported wheels had "all Porsche wheels" but there is no default setup for the Carrera in the menu. I was able to mask the jerking, burying it by upping the ffb and filtering but it doesn't feel great like in GTR 2. Does anybody here even have a Carrera wheel?

For Sale Thrustmaster TX 458 Italia - Stock Pedals and Stock Rim $210 Shipped Pedal base needs a slight bit of cleaning, their is some tape residue as I used this as a travel rig and just taped it to the floor. Can post pictures later.

Want to buy, fanatec formula rim. Have pay pal ready. Prefer us seller. Show me what you got!

Hi got this from a viewer of the show Robert Waddell and thought it would be good to share here as well. I have tried a lot of these adjustments myself with a lot of success. I also produced a video that goes over the many (I counted 37) adjustments to get things to feel right. In the video, I only tweaked about ten though..lol.. Felt really good to me though ! Hope this helps ! Edit: Here's my video too.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlOdRTB4njY PROJECT CARS In Game (Global) Wheel Settings for TX Italia with Ferrari GTE Wheel Add-On Tire Force – the percentage of tire-related forces used to influence FFB calculations. Wheel Position Smoothing – the rate of change of an object and the axis about which the object is rotating. Linkage Scale – simulates that the wheel is driven by a non-rigid linkage, namely the driver's arms, as well as play in mass in the linkage itself. Stiffness and damping of that linkage can be controlled here. Relative Adjust – represents torque to the wheel based on the change in torque over time rather than being absolute torque. Relative Adjust Bleed – a time value for bleeding absolute torque back in whereas Relative Adjust Clamp is the value around which this effect operates. 1.0 is a good starting point. Scoops – decreases low forces more and high forces less, thereby increasing the slope of force where some devices reduce the slope of force. Scoop Knee – the force level where the force changes from shallow to steep. Scoop Reduction – refers to the input reduction below the knee. Above the knee the force slope is increased such that, at 1.0 input force, the output force is 1.0. Soft Clipping – compresses all force within range of the wheel, although the stronger the force, the more it is squeezed into the higher force range. The Half Input setting is the signal that will become 0.5 as an output signal with 0.0 turning it off. Full Output – setting that determines the expected maximum force that will hit the soft clipper, and rescales such that that force outputs at 1.0. This means force above this setting will again clip. Per Car (in the garage for each car) Wheel Settings for TX Italia with Ferrari GTE Wheel Add-On General FFB strength Output strength of the FFB to the wheel after it has been calculated by the FFB engine. This is basically the final 'volume' adjustment of the FFB. This means that if the FFB is clipping, turning the FFB strength down won't help anymore. Tyre Force This is the strength of the tyre contribution to the FFB, which is also the main contributor to the FFB. If the FFB is too high or too low for all cars, you can adjust this value to get it equally stronger/weaker for all cars. The car-specific settings These you want to adjust when the FFB of one car is good while for the next car it's too weak or strong (or has a wrong subjective balance of the individual force contributors). Spindle Master Scale: this scales the forces below it equally up and down, i.e. it's the FFB 'volume knob' specifically for that car. Turn it down if the FFB is clipping, and up if it's too weak. Fx: this is the FFB component representing the longitudinal force on the tyre contact patch. This should determine FFB when accelerating or braking, but I haven't really experimented with this one yet. Fy: this is the FFB component representing the lateral force on the tyre contact patch. Very important for feeling mass transfer/inertia of the car when cornering. Fz: this is the FFB component representing the vertical force on the tyre contact patch. This plays an important part in the 'road feel' of the FFB, i.e. when going over bumps in the road. Mz: this is the FFB component representing the twisting force of the wheels, i.e. rotation along the vertical axis of the wheel. It is the self-aligning force of the wheels into the driving direction and is most important for getting the 'classic' feel of the FFB getting lighter when the front tyres lose grip. So when you want a particular force to stand out in the FFB, raise its relative contribution to the total FFB, and after that adjust the Spindle Master Scale value if necessary to get the FFB stay within the full range (i.e. not clipping or getting too weak). ___________________________ Notes: 4/16/15 The most important parameter to check that it's set to 100 is the Force Feedback Strength parameter in the main controller menu. It defaults for many wheels at 75 and some wheels at 50 which is completely wrong. Then make sure FFB damping saturation (the next parameter under FFB strength) is set to zero. Or: UPDATE actually I just reversed the games ffb and the TM profiler,. so 100 in TM and 70 in game.. and theres no difference. feels as good as above. After this I suggest using Real Gain parameter (first value to 0.98, second to 0.1 and last value again t 0.98) unless you have a direct drive wheel (2000$+ wheel).. or even the Fanatec CSW v2. Then finally remove all smoothing in the car setup FFB menu. All cars default to 0.1 Fx Smoothing which is stupid. Then I suggest setting the values for most cars like this (note that his is very subjective though. You need to adapt the FFB to your own type of driving): Fx = 48 Fy = 44 Fz = 54 Mz = 100 Then the top parameter (master scale) to your preferred setting. I usually have it at around 34 to 40, depending on how heavy FFB I want. Finally one of the most important and one of the most difficult to understand and tweak parameters is called Spindle Arm Angle (or just spindle arm). You can ONLY find it in each car's setup screen when you are NOT in the actual practice/qualifying/race session. So from the main menu go into car setup editing and you will find it as the last value. Many cars have this setting quite nicely set but some cars have it completely wrong. This setting is key to getting a proper feel of the forces through the whole range of slip angles. If you set the value too low you'll have a very tightly centered wheel with little FFB once you cross over optimum slip angle. If you set the value too high the opposite happens.. the wheel is very light and "slow" in the middle and gets progressively stronger the more you turn the wheel. Set it just right and your wheel will be giving you amazing detail. EDIT: One last note: My way of tweaking FFB is purely based on laptimes. I tweak until I get the ultimate consistent laptimes. I don't care at all about trying to get a wheel to feel "realistic" (which would be completely dead in a normal car) nor do I try to get it "heavy and bumpy". I just tweak it for ultimate important physics information fidelity. I want to know exactly when I'm not at optimum grip levels. This is the only fairly OBJECTIVE way of tweaking FFB because I can directly measure it. I drive 5 laps around Silverstone with default FFB. Check my laptimes. I then tweak the FFB and drive 5 more laps then compare the laptimes. Did I do better? Did I do worse? It's like tweaking a car setup. FFB can have a HUGE impact on your laptimes, especially if it is "wrongly set". It can truly work against you and make the car feel very odd if it's badly setup. But get it just right and you can vastly improve the laptimes and as an added bonus you wont be spinning and crashing as often either. 5/6/15 1) I recommend setting the ingame FFB strength setting to 100 (very very important!). Then instead set the FFB strength in the Thrustmaster CONTROL PANEL between 60 - 75, depending on how much of a workout you want. 2) Also make sure to experiment with the car setup FFB settings that you find in the garage/edit screen of each car. The most important setting there is called Spindle Arm Angle and can ONLY be found when you are not on the track/in the actual gameplay part but rather in the main menu (I have no idea why they didn't include it in the in-game garage/setup screen). The spindle arm angle is set a bit weird on many cars. For instance the Ginetta G40 has it default to 15 I think but it works much better when set to 21. I also usually tweak the Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz settings to something like this: Fx = 80 Fy = 50 to 70 range Fz = 60 to 70 range Mz = 100 to 110 range Then also set the Spindle arm multiplier (first setting on this screen) to something higher than the default 26. I usually end up at around 32 to 40, depending on how much down force the car produces (more down force = stronger FFB) 5/7/15 By the way, which car are you driving? I keep mentioning this but I'll say it again: one of the most important FFB settings is Spindle Arm Angle and it can be found in the car setup screen (but NOT from the on-track car setup screen!!). It's set separately for each and every car. Example: Ginetta G40 feels extremely stiff and hard centered on my TX 458 with it's default settings. So I made these changes (note, these are from memory! I have yet to drive the release version of Project CARS.. stuck with too much work still ): Spindle Master Scale = 36 Fx = 100 Fy = 60 Fz = 60 Mz = 110 Spindle Arm Angle (the last parameter in the FFB tab in the car setup) = 21 (instead of the default 15). Please experiment with the spindle arm angle as it has such a dramatic impact on absolutely everything. Many cars I feel do not have it set optimally yet. bmanic @ www.racedepartment.com 5/7/15 guys its easy.... I have a t300 GTE. Ive set FFB in Thrustmaster panel to 100 (as I do all my sims) I also set in Wheel Pcars menu FFB 100 Dampening 15 Tyre Force 100 Then in each car specific FFB I set the master lower. For instance the Formula a car (f1) has the most grip so it produces the most FFB, ive lowered that Master gain to 10, and it feel lovely.

Okay. Just got a fanatec CSR Elite. Great Wheel. Just looking for some suggestions on the wheel and game settings for Project Cars if you all would be so kind I checked the forums and I can't find a similar topic (surprisingly) hence starting one here. Cheers, Mark.

Looking for a CSR Elite wheel. Also pedals if the wheel comes as a package, but I already have the CSR Elite pedals so not essential. Hoping to buy one that has had no reliability issus. PM me with details. Thanks, Mark.