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Found 54 results

  1. Hi Guys want to show my custom rig where im work since july 2015... early in 2015 i buy a used DFGT und a copy of dirt 3 and started to race on my desktop and now im playing dirt rally, assetto corsa and project cars in this beast^^ Here a small video of my desktop setup with a wheel platform where be can moved to the left to put the wheel away for working etc... and yes the screens are old 17 inch 4:3 screens in eyefinity here i picked up for 30 bucks for all xD Now to the Diy rig: the pre cuted bosch 40 x 40 profiles putting the base together: a early configuration (july 2015) with the driving force gt: the rig in febuary 2016 my pc: a amd 8350, Gpu 1 :crappy amd 260x graphicscard, Gpu 2 Geforce 8600 gt for the small screen, 8 gb ram, 120 gb ssd so on.... nothing special the screen stand: first they was hinged but they had to much play in it and the outside the screen hung down... so i replaced it with a slu plate with an angle of 40 the padel deck: T3pa with the custom Diamond plate and foot rest The keyboard holder 80/20 30 x 30 mm The cheap and uncomfortable Seat, will be replaced someday with a QSP Drift 2 Bucket seat... The modded Thurstmaster T300 with quick release and ardurino tm1638 mod^^ DIY Sequential shifter and handbrake: will be replaced, but later more^^ as screens i use 3 22" dell as eyefinity and a small 17" as support screen for teamspeak, mp3 player and to see what facetracknoir makes, as webcam for it i use the good old ps3 cam^^ the next things i want to change is the shifter and the handbrake. as shifter im looking for a fanatec 1.5 SQ. im driving atm a lot of ATS and need a H pattern but also a decent seqeutial for dirt rally. for the handbrake im going the a full hydraulic "DSD DIY" one but not with the traditional brake assembly also i want to build a nice DIY button box but its not so importent right now... ive you have some ideas for my rig to change something or things i also need give me a shout please^^ hope you enjoyed the pics and like my rig Ciao BattleGear
  2. Mohammed Al-Nuaimi

    Mount small mige behind pedals

    Hello as the title says I have acquired a closed f1 cockpit and it's kinda tight and I want to mount the motor behind the pedals and have a very long extension to the front and want to know where I can buy such a thing thanks for the help
  3. A few weeks ago my son switched from his old G25 wheel/shifter combo to a brand new Thrustmaster TX + F1 addon wheel. In the process he lost the G25 shifter that he used mainly for Nascar and MX5 racing. To get a working shifter, there were several choices: Buying a new shifter: obvious but expensive Use the G25 shifter connected to the wheel without using the wheel: inelegant! Buying a Leo Bodnar interface (http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72&products_id=188): cheap and easy Build our own interface: even cheaper and more versatile We chose the latter option to have the best possible control on the gear shifting logic: the stock G25 shifting logic is somewhat buggy, leading to quite frequent mis-shifts. Having full control of the software also allows adding some new functions: a handbrake mode seems the most obvious as the G25 shifter has all the necessary hardware. In the following posts I will explain all the steps required to build a G25 shifter to USB interface, based on a Teensy 2.0 board. This writeup is split into 5 chapters, each chapter being one post: Chapter 1: Hardware and tools required Chapter 2: Wiring and canning Chapter 3: Software Chapter 4: Tests and configuration Chapter 5: Conclusion
  4. Hi there! I am Robert from the Netherlands, 36 years of age and a complete newbie at the sim-racing scene, but always had the urge of building a sim-rig one day. It's a bucket list thingy I spend a long time searching for possible ways to build a decent and cool looking sim-rig until i stumbled upon OpenSimrig Supersport designs which blew me away! I just had to build a rig like that! I haven't got a clue where to start with measurements and/or sizes of rigs so because extrusion material is very expensive i decided to contact Steve from OSR and bought his plans for calculation of materials needed and basic instructions.Steve helped me out great so i could get started right away. As for the build, it's a 40 series based on the SuperSport evolution, extra wide version and with full bracing. i am trying to make it a one-off with some custom touches. well see how things go along the way. Just started the build so it's not finished yet but here is the progress so far, hope you like it. extrusion alu arrived and cut to specific
  5. SpaceHedgehog

    R-Pod MkII : VR Enabled

    Current state of the build: Main build log starts ... Since Assetto Corsa came out, I've got the itch to build an updated version of my existing rig and I've now assembled all the parts necessary to start. My g25 has been replaced by Fanatec ClubSport Wheel base, both rims, the CSP v2s and the CSS Seq shifter. The shifter broke on my g25 unfortunately so I considerd that an excuse to upgrade. I've acquired a new seat and a new ulrawide monitor also. My previous rig looked like this: It's had a fair few modifications since then though with a monitor positioned behind the wheel and a shfter mount attached to the seat base. New Seat: Mini LFEs for Simvibe: Buttkicker amp: The amp and Mini LFEs were actually bought for me by a colleague who recently left my team. I asked him to reconsider but he insisted on me keeping them. So, this first job for the new build was to attach the Mini LFE's to the seat. In R-Pod Mk1, I had tested them by bolting them to the inside of the MDF seat base. I was singularly unimpressed so I thought long and hard about how to approach it for the new build. The seat can be mounted from the side or underneath. This allowed me to apprach the issue more directly. I bought a plate of 4mm aluminium, drilled some holes in it, Attached the Mini LFE's and bolted it to the bottom of the seat. The resulting experience is what I was hoping for with the vibreations being channeled through the whole frame: Aluminium plate: Holes drilled: Test mounting: Plate covered with blackboard vinyl and Buttkickers attached: Side mounts and seat rails bolted on: Hope to have more updates on the build next weekend.
  6. Hello guys, I have changed my steering wheel recently now I don't have any buttons on my wheel. Is there any way to make a DIY button using the wheel's two button connectors?
  7. Hi all, I am new to the world of sim racing, but have been a fan of F1 for a while now. I've finally decided it's time to design a sim racing rig and I am looking for some clarification regarding rigs with 2 degrees of freedom. I have seen some setups with stationary screens and some with screens that move with the seat. It seems to me that the screens should remain stationary as the view outside your cockpit is not moving with the vehicle. Given that I am not familiar with the racing games yet, I'm wondering if I am missing something here? Is there a good reason to make the screens move with the seat? Thanks in advance for the advice!
  8. W4RLOCK

    My First Rig

    Hi, just wanna show the status so far on my first DIY rig. Its build in 80/20 aluminum. Got some help from Lars Buresø who made the drawings in MayCad. Some small adjustments underway. But still long way to go XD. And still learning from my mistakes! My target is an F1 Style simulator with a laydown position. Still trying to hit the rigtig position. Cant figure out how to fit the seat yet. Ideas are welcome. Setup: OSW SimuCube Fanatec F1 Carbon Steering wheel (will get a Simracingmachines USB convertion) and Q1R Quick Release Heusinkveld Ultimate Pedals (No clutch) 4 x ASUS ROG PG279Q 27" 2K IPS (Last one still not mounted. Gonna be used as info screen) PC: i7 7700K 16 GB Ram ASUS GTX 1080 STRIX
  9. Hi, We are selling adapters for custom aftermarket steering wheels for Thrustmaster TMX/T150(rs) TMX, Pre-sale discount, adapter for 43USD T150(rs), Pre-sale discount, kit for 50USD High quality PLA adapter, smooth, well strong - 100% infill (solid plastic, not hollow as others sell) It fits to standard 70mm wheels(Sparco, Momo......) Many colors available If you want other color e.g. white... just text me.. In package included : 1x Steering wheel adapter 6x mounted M5 nuts 6X mounted M5 imbus (Allen, HEX) bolts 1x Custom board for T150(rs) (without custom board, T150(rs) will not calibrate properly) For installation the adapter and custom aftermarket rim you do not need any special tools. Screws, which holds the adapter on it's place are reused from stock rim. Pictures with TMX will be taken soon. If you broken the adapter and send pictures, return would be accepted ! Links : Mounting the adapter - YouTube tutorial Thrustmaster T150(rs) listing Thrustmaster TMX listing ! Please note ! ADVANTAGES - Buy 3 adapters and get 1 as gift - Buy 5 adapters and get 2 as gift (In case you want to buy more (e.g. 2 and more) please text me via Ebay or email and then we could agree the final price with discounts) Shipping WORLDWIDE from Czech Republic, priority with tracking number : -- Europe priority shipping 8USD -- America priority shipping 8USD If you have any questions, PM me..
  10. DavynDominguez

    DIY AMG GT3 Wheel

    Hi everybody, I create this topic in order to follow the progress of my DIY wheel for Thrustmaster TS PC. As for the F1 steering wheel that I already made, I go on a base aluminum cutting and 3D printing for the remaining components. The goal is to reproduce the steering wheel of the AMG GT3 (2016 version) based on Assetto corsa model - Front Plate + Rear cover + paddles in aluminium - Magnetic shifter in 3D printing - Quick Release Thrustmaster in 3D Printing - Handles in 3D printing - Buttons and electronics: Arduino Nano for Thrustmaster emulation + Ebay buttons - Alu washers for the outline of the buttons The wheel is almost finished now ( remaining some electronic wiring)
  11. Jdmcolombia

    Fanatec CSR wheel adapter

    Hello, I have a fanatec CSR wheel, along with pedals and shifter. I also have a diy hydraulic handbrake, that I modded to the wheel. It isn't exactly hydraulic, just uses an on/off switch to engage the e brake. Anyways.... Since I have been back to sim racing, I have finally come to the conclusion that the CSR wheel is literally built for a child. It's a great wheel setup, but the wheel is an oversized Nintendo wii wheel , lol. I have found the wheel that I would like to use. For those that are curious, it's just a basic 320mm deep dish wheel from eBay. Who cares, I'm just here to to play and enjoy the thing. Now for the kicker, I need a wheel adapter ( http://simracinghardware.com/product/fanatec-wheel-adapter/ ) in order to mount a 70mm wheel to it. And this being a budget build, and me being anxious, I would rather not wait until this shipped from the across the pond. So, has anybody 3D printed off a wheel adapter for the CSR? I know it's an old wheel, but I've seen plenty of 3D printed adapters for G/27 wheels. Any and all help will be appreciated.
  12. I'm reserving this top part to pin my latest build which will be an 80/20 extrusion chassis running a 3DoF seat mover with rear traction loss. My detailed build will be documented and most posted on xsim which links below in my signature. Here is the prototype sketch of the rig itself. The rig will not have triples monitors as it is being built for VR. ************************************************************************************** ************************************************************************************** I've finally decided to throw in the towel on the console racing era and move over to PC. This thread will describe my current and new DIY wooden racing chassis. I'll document what I can and I'm happy to field any questions and welcome any comments you may have on my progress and finished project. Thanks go out to Darin and Shaun for this community and to everyone here that inspired me in different areas of this project. I'll keep this post updated with any new additions and pictures while the posts below will detail the build. Happy racing! PC specs i5 3750k - @4.0GHz 16 GB RAM, 256GB SSD, 3TB drive 7970 Sennheiser PC 363D surround headset Benq XL2720T monitor 120Hz Oculus Rift CV1 Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H Mobo Input Devices DIY OSW built with small mige and SIMUCube, custom MOMO 290 with button box HE Ultimate pedals Fanatec SQ Shifter Tactile Components 4 TST209 Clark transducers 2 Dayton APA150 150W amplifiers 5 Buttkicker kinetic isolators Simvibe software Monitor mount arms http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=59988&cat=3,43597,43601,60167,59988 Update January, 2014 SQ shifter mounted Update January, 2014 Monitor hoods added Update June, 2014 Monitor hood skirts added Update October, 2014 Mugen MBX7 Eco - shock and spring upgrade Update June 2016 Took down two monitors and now run with CV1 added a fan - manual for now Update April 2017 sold my fanatec base and wheel and standing up my OSW this week build on motion platform continues Update Sept 2017 picked up HE Ultimates
  13. Hi. Im Dezsni and I am making my own very simple dashboard for Project Cars 2 using an Arduino Uno and a small Nextion display. I have very little experience with Arduino or Nextion and I'm asking if any of you can help me get started with creating a dashboard. I have tried making it by myself, but I do not know how to start and how to receive information from PC2 and convert it to commands that the nextion display would understand. I cannot use simdash or any programs like that, I have to make everything from scratch and that's where the problems start, because of no experience and little arduino programming knowledge. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
  14. Jdmcolombia

    Fanatec CSR wheel adapter

    Hello, I have a fanatec CSR wheel, along with pedals and shifter. I also have a diy hydraulic handbrake, that I modded to the wheel. It isn't exactly hydraulic, just uses an on/off switch to engage the e brake. Anyways.... Since I have been back to sim racing, I have finally come to the conclusion that the CSR wheel is literally built for a child. It's a great wheel setup, but the wheel is an oversized Nintendo wii wheel , lol. I have found the wheel that I would like to use. For those that are curious, it's just a basic 320mm deep dish wheel from eBay. Who cares, I'm just here to to play and enjoy the thing. Now for the kicker, I need a wheel adapter ( http://simracinghardware.com/product/fanatec-wheel-adapter/ ) in order to mount a 70mm wheel to it. And this being a budget build, and me being anxious, I would rather not wait until this shipped from the across the pond. So, has anybody 3D printed off a wheel adapter for the CSR? I know it's an old wheel, but I've seen plenty of 3D printed adapters for G/27 wheels. Any and all help will be appreciated.
  15. dupontin

    A Touring Car Sim build v1

    Hi all from another Aussie on the forums in Perth. I've been browsing a little while now, since I got a set of the Samsung Odyssey VR goggles. After a bit of research, I then ordered the Thrustmaster T300 GT RS set , which led me to wanting g to build a cockpit (I've already built a number of flight Sim cockpits). I looked at the designs and although they were good, but I wanted something different, I thought it had to at least look similar to a car cockpit. So I used our Touring cars (Bathurst 1000 racing) as my "style" I also just happen to have a CNC with Aspire software in my garage so i started to design.... I styled the front to look like a touring car, (falcon or commodore) with a southern cross logo on the front with the seat going to have the HDT lion and helmet. (I haven't built the seat yet), I decided on the logo because its a good design and one I can do on my CNC. I made a few mistakes so far which I fixed some last night, moving the wheel back 200mm. This is a prototype I may sell it and make another. Thoughts and suggestions are welcome. The third image is my being impatient and testing before I put a seat in, glad I did as the wheel was too far back (more laid back like an F1.) I wanted more upright. I sat a few friends down with the CAR goggles on and I think the screams said it all.(from the ladies), the guy who tried (Mitch 20) said "Wooooow, this is the shit, love it" So this weekend I move it to the downstairs lounge before the wife realises, and work out a good way of covering it when not in use. I think getting everyone to try it also it to the wife.... For once I have a degree of WAF.
  16. Hey guys looking to add a shifter mount to my wheel stand pro for thrustmaster tx. I have seen the RGS add on but 100$ seems a bit steep for a piece of metal with a plate. I had the idea of mocking one up in PVC but wanted to see if others have had any success doing it any other way or if there are any tutorials or plans that exist currently. Look forward to hearing from you guys.
  17. Greetings, There's some interest in components of use to the DIY man. We plan to release very *soon* several components that can be easily connected to our electronics (or others). If you're wanting ready-to-connect encoders, rotary switches, "Funky Switches" and 4 way pot sticks, we will have them. Here are some photos: 12 Position Rotary Swtich Rotary Encoder with Pushbutton PB Encoder - 5 Pack (knobs are included) 4-Way Pot Stick with Pushbutton "Funky Switch" We've made these components fool proof by doing all of the designing and soldering for you. Each component is mounted to our proprietary breakout board to make connections a snap. We solder the pin headers and supply jumper wires to connect to any controller with headers like our retail electronics have. You get the knobs, too, and the 4-way pot and the Funky Switch also include our proprietary knobs designed and made specifically for these components (no other knobs exist). The lineup is specifically as follows: "Funky Switch" - 2-way encoder with pushbutton and integrated 4-way stick 4-Way Pot Stick - A miniature analogue joystick with integrated pushbutton 2-Way Encoder with Pushbutton 12-Position Rotary Swtich An Early Release seemed like the way to go since there is interest in these components. SOME WORDS OF NOTICE: READ OUR TECHNICAL MATERIAL...then read it again and read all of the information on the link here: http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/diy-components-for-circuit-projects.html We developed these for those who want to paint it their way but are faced with the difficulties of using these popular components in their raw, out of the bag states. All the guesswork has been removed! New orders during this early and initial release phase will be shipped within 21 days. See the DSD Site above on that link for all details and facts. Thank you! d Here are the dimensions and diagrams. Download the datasheet from the DSD Site. Datasheet - READ ME! http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/download/DSD DIY Components_Compnents-dimensionsandconnections.pdf DSD DIY Components_Compnents-dimensionsandconnections.pdf
  18. I just purchased the Evolution, and it's quite uncomfortable. I'm assuming it's from being in such a forward position. Any owners who have previously modded their seat to help it recline, or any ideas as to how to do so while keeping it sturdy? I was debating on putting metal plates above the playseat base where the chair bolts to, like starting with longer pieces and steadily going shorter to keep constant contact with the "base". like 8", 6", 4", 2" or whatever i decide to come up with. If anyone has any better ideas that'd be much appreciated!
  19. Hello, thank you for checking out my "How to" on building my simrig! I have attached zip files for you to download that have all the information needed for every single piece to build the rig, along with plans, sections, and elevations with some dimensions for reference. I will try to explain how I chose to go about assembling it below. - Attachments are at the bottom of this post, after the pictures. **** I strongly encourage you to take time and familiarize yourself with all of the information given before you begin construction. **** A few pieces of the build will require you to take some of your own dimensions to have it work best with all of your equipment. Refer to the "Piece Tickets.pdf". - For example, you will need to take specific dimensions of the monitor you decide to use. These will be very important in determining where the cutouts will be located for the monitor and front speakers, and how large they will need to be. **** If you have any questions about anything or see that I have left out something needed to build the rig, please send me a message or reply to this topic and I will do my best to explain anything you need. I would suggest that you reply to this topic, that way if anyone else has the same question they can get an answer just by following the posts. If you decide to build my rig, I would greatly appreciate it if you could add a picture of your finished build to this topic. I am very interested to see how you will make it your own, and if you decide to make any modifications to it. Feel free to change anything you would like about the build, I have only given information for how to build my rig exactly. - If you would like to play computer games on it, I currently do not have it designed with that in mind. If you wanted to though, a simple solution would be to put your computer inside the large panel that you use to access the back of the monitor & front speakers, Depending on how large the monitor is you use, it should be able to fit inside well. I would suggest that your computer has a good cooling system in it though, because it could get quite warm being enclosed in a small area. Key things to pay attention to: 1. All of my dimensions given are based on using 5/8" thick wood. If you use any thickness other than 5/8", many dimensions will be slightly off which will cause problems with pieces lining up correctly. If you use a different thickness of wood, you will need to add/subtract the difference it makes in all pieces that would be affected. 2. I used a 32" LG monitor. I would assume you could go up to a 36", but I have not verified that, and it would still depend on the overall dimensions of the monitor, and front speakers. You will need to reference dimensions given and make sure the monitor and speakers you choose will fit inside the designated areas for them. 3. Plan out ahead of time how you plan to finish the rig off. Whether you decide to add material, paint it, stain it, etc. You should figure that out before assembling the pieces so you know how hard it will be to finish off once fully built, or how much prep work you will need to do before assembling. 4. The plans I have designed were for my own personal preference, using a Fanatec CSR Elite wheel, Fanatec CSR Elite Pedals, and Fanatec CSR Shifter Set. Please review the dimensions given and figure out if they will work well with your equipment of choice, and personal preferences. Certain dimensions were not provided (such as location of the seat, etc.) because you should determine that for where you would like it yourself. 5. I have not provided information on how to attach all of the pieces together, I used screws. - First I drilled a pilot hole, then recessed it some so when I drilled in the screw, it would not stick out from the wood. I also did not use any backup support to drill into, I just lined the pieces up and drilled directly into the ends. If you do this as well, make sure you are very careful when drilling your pilot holes and make sure you are going through the wood as close as possible to the center of the 5/8" thickness. If you are off by too much, the screw will end up coming through the side of a piece, or cause the wood to split and not hold the screw in place. If you choose to add extra wood backing so you have a wider area to drill into, you should be able to cut small pieces from the left over 4' x 8' sheets of wood. *** Plan out what you will do before starting construction. 6. IMPORTANT: I did not build this rig with plans for it to be easily taken apart or transported. When fully built it is too large to fit through typical doorways. Make sure that where you build it is where you are going to plan on keeping it, because you will not be able to get it out of its location unless it is disassembled. 7. You will probably want to run all the wiring for the speakers before you close in certain areas of the rig. Once it is fully assembled, it will be difficult to run certain wiring, such as the rear left surround speaker. I also would encourage you to make sure you use something to hold the wiring in place in certain areas, so if you disconnect a wire it can't fall down through a hole pass through, and be near impossible to get back out. 8. (I will add more to the list as I think of them, or are brought to my attention) I hope I have given enough information for you to complete the build as easily as possible. Some of my ticketing for the pieces and layout may be confusing though. I tried to fit everything including the dimensions onto the size of a typical sheet of paper so you can print them out and follow along without needing a computer by your side the entire time you are laying out and cutting the pieces. - Please print out all of the tickets, and use a highlighter to check off dimensions and pieces as you know they have been drawn and then cut. Thank you very much for your interest in my rig, and building it for yourself. I became inspired to build/design this rig from seeing other peoples amazing creations on this site, and I hope that I have been able to inspire you in some way to build your own rig. It really is rewarding and almost as fun as actually racing in it once you're done the build....almost. Ha. Happy Racing!!! Material required for build: (8) ---- Sheets of 8' x 4' x 5/8" wood. (8) ---- Hinges for door panels. (5) ---- Knobs/Door pulls for door panels. (1,000,000...jk) ---- Screws. Recommended tools: - Circular Saw - Jigsaw - Drill - Sander - Measuring Tape - Level - Router (for recessing holes on shifter mount) ****Please download all attachments. They are all required in order to have all information needed to cut the pieces, and build the rig. Good luck! STEP 1: BASE - P-14, (2) P-15 Hold P-15 pieces 5/8" in from the edges of piece P-14 STEP 2: BASE - (3) P-16 STEP 3: LEFT SIDE (BOTTOM) - P-1, P-2, P-3, P-4, P-5, P-6, (1) P-7, (1) P-8, (1) P-9 STEP 4: RIGHT SIDE (BOTTOM) - (1) P-7. (1) P-8, (1) P-9, P-10, P-11, P-12, P-13 I placed the amp for my transducer on piece P-10. If you choose to use an amp with transducer, this is where I would recommend you also placing the amp as it is easy to reach with your right hand. Dimensions and cutouts will need to be taken for your personal placement. You will also need to have a cutout somewhere near the rear of piece P-10 for the speaker wire to run though, to the transducer located under your seat. STEP 5: ATTACH SIDES TO BOTTOM Attach the assembled sides from Steps 3 and 4, to the bottom of the rig from Step 1 STEP 6: MONITOR STAND - P-17, P-18, (2) P-19 Pieces P-18 and (2) P-19 can be modified depending on how you choose to support your monitor. If you extend them to the back of piece P-17, and widen piece P-18, you can probably place a computer on it as well as the monitor. STEP 7: MONITOR PANEL - P-20, (2) P-21, (2) P-22 Attach pieces (2) P-21 & (2) P-22 to piece P-20 before installing piece P-20. All cutouts on P-20 will need to be determined by you based on monitor size & speaker choice. Piece sizes for (2) P-21 & (2) P-22 will be determined by monitor cutout on P-20. STEP 8: FRONT SPEAKER STANDS & SIDE SUPPORTS - (4) P-42, (2) P-43, (2) P-41 Dimensions will need to be taken. Heights and widths depend on your monitor and speaker choice, and cutout locations on piece P-20. Piece P-41 is added to help pieces P-32 & P-33 together. STEP 9: SIDES (TOP)- P-32, P-33 Piece P-32 goes above piece P-1 from Step 3. Piece P-33 goes above piece P-13 from Step 4. STEP 10: CEILING, CENTER CHANNEL & LIGHT OPENING - P-23, (2) P-24, (2) P-25, P-26, P-27, (2) P-28 Attach all pieces needed to piece P-23 before installing P-23. Verify ahead of time that your center channel speaker will fit on the base designed to hold it. STEP 11: DIVIDERS - (2) P-29, P-30, P-31 STEP 12: BACK PANEL W DOORS - P-37, (2) P-38 Hinges required to attach pieces P-38. STEP 13: FRONT PANEL W DOORS - P-34, P-35, P-36 Hinges required to attach pieces P-35 & P-36. The opening at the bottom left of piece P-34 is where I have the surge protector located. All electronics should be plugged into it, then you can run just the one power cord from the surge protector out to a wall outlet. STEP 14: ROOF W DOOR - P-39, P-40 Hinges required to attach piece P-40. STEP 15: REVERSE MOUNT PEDAL STAND - (2) P-44, P-45, P-46, P-47 Stand is optional STEP 16: BASE FOR SEAT - (2) P-54, (2) P-55 Location and height should be determined by you. (I'm missing the pictures, I will update when I find them.) STEP 17: MOUNT FOR SHIFTERS - (2) P-48, P-49, P-50, P-51, P-52, P-53 Shifter Mount is optional. Cutting the metal rods that were included with your Fanatec CSR Shifter Set will be required. The length of the metal rods, and depth/specific location of the recessed holes in the wood will need to be determined by you. If you choose to use a different shifter other than the Fanatec CSR Shifter Set, this mount will not work. FINISHED! SIMRIG "EXPLODED" VIEW (I'm missing the picture, I'll update when I find it) ****Please download all attachments. They are all required in order to have all information needed to cut the pieces, and build the rig. Good luck! The most important attachments are the "Layout Tickets" & "Piece Tickets" MBoyerRig-2dPlans.zip Piece Tickets.pdf Layout Tickets.pdf MBoyerRig-PieceMarkPictures.zip
  20. Hello everyone Sooo, i have a Thrustmaster T300RS and i'm on my way into building a GT3/GTE car style steering wheel, and in this wheel i will have these things implemented: 1. Push buttons 2. ON/OFF toggle switches 3. Rotary encoders with push function all of this connected to a LEO BODNAR BBI-32 board But my plan is, when i'm racing online and i would like to switch the wheel depending on the car, so i will either use the GT steering wheel or the Thrustmaster steering wheel, the problem with this is, when i will use the Thrustmaster wheel i won't have acces to all the buttons i've put in the GT steering wheel. (yes i knwo the thrustmaster has buttons too, but thats not what i'm looking for here, plus if i would like to use the button on the thrustmaster steering wheel i would have to assign every button everytime i switch the wheel) I hope i havent lost you unntil here. So my plan is i would build a button box with the same configuration of buttons just like the GT steering wheel, so when i will use the Thrustmaster wheel i will have the button box to adjust all the things i will assign the buttons, and when i switch to the GT wheel i won't use the button box because i will have all of my buttons in the steering wheel. And my question is this: HOW DO I MAKE THE GT STEERING WHEEL AND THE BUTTON BOX TO '' ACT LIKE THEY ARE 1 '' ?? Because for example a button function like '' pit limiter '' a can not assign two different buttons too make it work!!!! I do all of this because i like to have a rouund wheel and a GT style steering wheel Thnx for any one who will help And if you have any other question, don't hesite to ask
  21. kenventions

    VR Cockpit Desk

    I built this VR Cockpit Desk primarily for flight sim games but I also plan to use my Thrustmaster Racing Wheel/Pedals to try out some VR racing games this Xmas. https://www.instructables.com/id/VR-Cockpit-Desk/ Ken
  22. Hey everyone, Figured I'd share my latest button plate project that I'm currently working on for my T300 base. I based the design off the steering wheel used in the Bentley GT3 racecar using a top mounted button plate rather than having the plate behind the wheel. I previously made a behind wheel mounted button plate a while back and wanted to go for a different design. After a few hours of drafting on AutoCAD I came up with a plate design and button placement I was satisfied with. I cut a prototype plate from some foam board I had lying around to see how it looked with the buttons. Pretty good if I do say so my self For this project I am using the TM compatible circuit by Moogen which can be found here: The circuit allows for both console and PC compatibly while maintaining the TM quick-release connection and includes inputs for 13 buttons, 4 d-pad inputs and 2 paddle shifters. I was amazed at how small and compact the circuit board is, making it perfect for button plate projects. I used push buttons for all 13 inputs and 2 toggle switches for the d-pad with the left switch being UP and DOWN and the right switch being LEFT and RIGHT directions. The wheel I am using is a 320mm NRG suede. To keep the plate raised off the steering wheel I'm using 1/2" plastic spacers which gives tons of space beneath the plate for the circuit board and all the wiring. Because of the placement of the DIN connector on the circuit I'll have to leave 1 screw out when bolting the wheel to the DSD adapter. For the paddles I tried mounting them to a backing plate using hinges and springs. With the push button I'm using and the tension of the spring the paddles have a nice firm and tactile feel comparable to my 599XX rim even using the foam board prototype. I wired up all the buttons and switches and checked each input using the TM profiler to make sure it was working before using shrink tubing to tidy everything up. The next step is to cut and drill the button plate, paddle shifters and the shifter mounting plate. I plan on using 4mm polycarbonate sheet for the plate and paddles and covering it with carbon fibre vinyl wrap. Once this is done and the DSD adapter arrives everything will be ready to be assembled! I'll post an update when the project is finished. - Cody
  23. Just getting started on the project. My t300 will be here later today and the NRG seat will be here tomorrow. Once I have those in hand I can continue the build. Was a little anxious so I started mocking some stuff up today. Hoping to have time on Saturday to finish up and get some laps in.
  24. hi all, wanted to ask around if anyone has experience with the Simetek Cockpit K2 cockpit/ rig, mounting and using DirectDrive wheels (OSW, DIY, AF or LB) on it. meaning experience with directdrive on this cockpit K2, does it wobble/ move/ sway/ flex? rigid or not rigid enough? thank you all.
  25. Hey everyone, I am waiting for my Fanatec CSL Elite for PS4 (2017 one) to ship and while waiting, I wanted to get my wheel stand ready. The products I am going to use are: Fanatec CSL Elite for PS4 Fanatec CSL pedals with LC Fanatec Css Sq v1.5 Shifter What I am looking for here are the solutions, diagrams to build a collapsible wheelstand strong enough to withstand the weight of all these components. I'll use my office chair as a seat. Maybe later on I'll go for a full rig with a cockpit but for now, I'll have to do with this. Do any one of you have such diagrams or help me in any way? Thanks a bunch!