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Found 4 results

  1. First off I apologize if this topic has already been discussed on the forum but I'm kinda in panic mode. I have a Obutto Revolution chassis and I just took delivery of a Asus ROG Swift PG348Q curved Ultra wide monitor. I was under the impression it would be a standard Vesa mount however when you remove the stand there seems to be a big issue. Removing the stand basically leaves a hole the monitor. There are 4 little finish style screws that are in a pattern that would work on a mount but their just tiny finish screws. Beside that, the screws are inside the recessed arrea where the factory stand installs. Does anybody have any idea what I can do to get this monitor mounted to my chassis? I've done some online research but came up empty handed. Am I missing something here? I could really use some help..Thanks everybody!
  2. Tyler Butler


  3. migraine24-7


    Ricmotech is proud to announce the latest addition to our renowned APX simulator chassis lineup. The RICMOTECH APX500 BARE CHASSIS is our new entry level chassis. The APX500 was created for those applications where only the basic controls are needed. You can hard-mount most wheels available on the market, most floor mount pedals, and it even has an adjustable shifter mount. The APX500 is built on the existing APX platform, which means the chassis can be converted in the future to the APX-1000/2000/3000 chassis. The major components are shared with its big brothers, so it can expand with you as your passion for sim racing grows. The APX500 is available now on our website. Ricmotech- THIS AIN'T YOUR KIDS RACING GAME
  4. Hi guys, so I decided to do a detailed DIY of my kart sim project, since there is literally only a handful on the internet. After doing some research, I found that the Internet does not have many DYIs on using a kart chassis as a sim rig (for karters or those who like the feel of a kart, this sim concept will really make you smile). Now, before reading any further, please note that I am writing this DYI because I know there must be others out there who want a low-cost solution, especially for those who are either not too serious in sim racing, or those who cannot afford purchasing top-end sim equipment. I would like anyone who reads the DYI to also add their own creativity and if there are ways you think it can be improved, feel free to speak out, since this was all thought out while I was going along, nothing was planned or drawn on paper beforehand. Also note that this is my first ever DYI, and I am not a professional blogger, but a simple weekend racer/9 to 5’er enjoying sim racing in my spare time, who thought it would be nice to create a DYI since I was struggling to find an existing one – so if I can help anyone out there who was looking for such a rig, my efforts in starting this thread would not have been for nothing. Now that we have that out of the way, if you are still interested in the DYI, welcome This is a “poorman’s kart rig”, which I made from scraps lying around the garage, I did not purchase a single thing yet. As such, the sim is only in “alpha phase” if you will. I used a simple Logitech Driving Force GT for the sim, without a clutch or anything fancy. As soon as I test the sim, I will start making special brackets to hold everything in place neatly and cover up everything, including giving the frame a fresh coat of paint etc etc. 1: Pedal to the metal I decided to use the kart’s pedals instead of the plastic Logitech pedals. To do this, I had to remove the “pots” after I did some research on how they work. It is basically like a volume knob, but with a spring that returns it to position 0. I decided that I will mount these little pots to the chassis and connect each to the throttle and brake (hydraulic) on the chassis, making it much more realistic than the plastic Logitech pedals. Step 1: Remove the bottom plate of the Logitech pedals. It is just a bunch of screws, after it is removed and the pedals are turned over, this is what you will see. The pots are linked to the pedals via small gears, which won’t be needed in my current setup. The pots are attached with two small screws as seen in the picture. {see image attached "pots"} One problem that I found is that the pots are connected to one another with a very short wire – now, if you want to keep your warranty, the rest of this post will be irrelevant, since I decided to cut these wires in order to attach the pots on opposite sides of the kart chassis. Seeing as the DFGT is a cheap wheel, I wasn’t bothered by cutting three little wires  The picture below shows the wires that link the pots. I basically just extended these wires, so I cut them. This was only to test the concept, so another option is to create an extension with similar connectors as seen on the pots, basically just creating extension wires with male tips on the one end, and female tips that “click” onto the pots on the other end, this will then result in no cutting – however, when I tried to loosen the little female clips from the pots, it felt like I am going to break off something so I cut the wires instead of running risk to damage the pots. {see image attached "pots 2"} Step 2: The red, black and green wire from the brake pedal pot was cut, and will be extended to the throttle pot. Important to notice with these pedals is that the accelerator pot is the pot connected to the plug that goes into the wheel and it has 2 red wires and 2 black wires instead of one, so do not cut any wires at the accelerator pot, rather cut at the brake pot. Now the pots were freed from one another and I removed them from the plastic casing. This is completely reversible should you want to use the plastic pedals again, you will just put the pots and pedals back into place as you removed them  Since I just decided that I am going to write a DYI on it, I did not take detailed pictures of how everything works, so I will take some tonight and post them over the weekend. But, I will put my paint drawing skills to use, to give an idea of what I did. Again, this is till only a concept, as soon as I get everything to work flawlessly, I will make nice brackets to clean up everything. I will also be using throttle cable to link the pots to the separate pedals. At the moment, I simply used fishing line to connect the pots to the pedals, since it can be tied around the pedals and pots, and cut off as soon as I can see everything is working. You can off course use any form of linkage between the pots and pedals that you wish, I just feel that throttle cable will be the easiest since it can be sleeved in the plastic shield and zip-tied neatly to the chassis. 1.1: How the Logitech DFGT pot works The pot basically works like a small volume knob on a radio, except when you turn the volume up and release the knob, it will turn itself back down. The green arrows (thanks to my paint skills) show how the pod moves forward or backwards when pulled. Pulling it forward (arrow facing left) increases brake/acceleration and vice versa. {see image attached "pots 3"} After figuring out how the pots work, it was easy to decide where they should be mounted. As long as the pots are mounted in a way so that the push of a pedal can pull the pot’s “arm”, you are ready to go! 1.2: Brake pedal The image below shows the pot at the brake cylinder, it works as follows – as soon as the brake pedal gets pushed forward, the line between the cylinder’s arm and the pot’s arm pulls the pot forward, mimicking the push of the plastic Logitech pedal downwards. It still looks messy, because I only tested whether it works and whether the pc picks up the movement of the brake pedal when pushed forward. As soon as I pull the kart’s brake pedal, the meter on the Logitech software on my PC ran up, indicating a perfect linear response. Let go of the pedal and the pot returns back to position 0. It is important that the kart’s pedals have springs attached to the chassis (as they come from factory), to ensure that the pot’s little spring doesn’t have to pull the metal pedal backward. At the moment, there is very little stress put on the pots, I reckon even less stress than were put out by the original plastic pedals with gears. {see image attached "kart sim rig brake pedal"} Although everything still looks like crap, it was only to test out whether the idea works. And it does pretty well indeed  To give an idea of the bracket at the brake pedal, here is a picture of it from the other side of the cylinder (before I screwed it in place – just used glue gun to line it up): {see image attached "brake cylinder 2"} After hooking up the pod and lining it up in order for the brake pedal to pull the pot’s arm, I went to the other side of the chassis, where the throttle will be located. 1.3: Throttle Pedal The idea is to use the existing throttle cable on the kart (that was linked to the engine’s carby which I removed), and link the cable to the pot. The best position I could find at the moment with the brackets that I had lying around, was right next to the seat (fastening the bracket to the existing seat bolt). The principle remains the same : position the pot so that pushing the throttle pedal forward, pulls the pot’s arm forward as well. The image below shows the pot being fastened to a bracket that I bent and drilled small holes into – at the moment I also just attached fishing line, since it was 11 pm and I just wanted to test it and get it done with. I am going to make a proper bracket and linkage so that the throttle cable can be linked to the pot’s arm properly. {see image attached "kart sim rig throttle"} After both pots were positioned and lined up with the kart’s pedals, the wires that were cut earlier (green,black and red) need to be connected again so that the pots can work. To do this, I took an old usb cable and cut off both ends, and used three of the four wires inside and soldered both ends to the wires on the pots. You can use any electrical wire, just make sure not to have any of the ends open or touching metal, to prevent a short. That is it for the pedals, I tested them and they work perfectly on my PC. The next step with the pedals are to link the pots with the pedals via proper cabling and sleeves, making brackets that look better and hold the pots firmly in place and lastly covering the pots so that only the cables are visible after I am done. However, that will only be done as soon as the frame is re-sprayed and everything is clean. 2: Steering The steering wheel is the tricky bit, which I haven’t really started with yet. There are two options, each with their own pros and cons, depending on what type of sims you intend to play: a) Use the Logitech wheel as is, and simply mount it after removing the kart’s steering wheel and column. Use the kart’s wheel and steering column, and create an adapter that will attach to the Logitech housing (requires removing the Logitech wheel from the housing). Option A is for those who prefer not to disassemble their wheel and would like to make use of the buttons on the wheel (for example the shift paddles). At this moment, I opted for option A since I have not put enough time into thinking how I am goig to extend the steering rod, create an adapter and attach the Logitech housing under the kart’s chassis (requires me to make a hole in the kart’s floortray and lifting the entire chassis). There might be another option, to put the housing closer to the top of the kart’s existing wheel, and create a short steering rod to connect to the housing – still, it is a project for another day. I only got the chassis on Tuesday, so on Tuesday night and last night, this was the best that I could come up so far. I removed the bib (nosecone) of the kart and used the bracket that holds the bib up to mount the steering wheel. I plan on cutting out a piece of wood and screw it to the brackets of the bib, in order to create a little platform for the wheel to clamp onto. As soon as I am done with this, I will post more images. At the moment, I just used two small pieces of wood and it works. You can create any bracket to hold the wheel, and with more time I probably will as well. The part of the chassis that holds the steering column in place has 2 holes in it, making it possible to create a small “shelf” to mount the wheel onto. I am going to test the sim tonight, and will give feedback as soon as possible. This project has only started, and I intend to keep updating the thread if there is any interest. I hope I can help someone who also got tired of searching forums for kart builds like I did. Below is a picture of the rig as it stands now (please keep in mind I only worked on it for 2 evenings so far after I got home from work, so it is still far from done, but hopefully it will be helpful to fellow karters/sim racers). {see image attached "progress"}