Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'button box'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Most Popular
    • Getting Started In Sim Racing
    • Sim Racing Discussion
    • Sim Gear - Buy and Sell
    • Simulation Racing Rigs / Cockpits
    • Wheel & Pedal Set Discussion
  • General Discussion
    • Inside Sim Racing Discussion
    • General + Real World Racing Discussion
    • Sim Racing Paint and Photo Shop
    • Sim Racing Videos
    • Other Gaming
  • Sim Racing Hardware
    • Audio Related
    • General Hardware Questions
    • Motion Hardware and Software Discussion
    • PC (Personal Computer) Gaming System
    • Peripherals
    • Playstation Discussion
    • Sim Vibe Hardware and Software Discussion
    • Video Related
    • Virtual Reality
    • XBox Discussion
  • Racing / Driving Games & Simulations
    • Assetto Corsa
    • Automobilista
    • Codemasters Dirt Series
    • Codemasters Formula One Series
    • Forza Motorsport Series
    • Gran Turismo Series
    • iRacing
    • Live For Speed
    • Moto GP Series
    • Project CARS 2
    • Project CARS
    • Raceroom
    • rFactor 2
    • rFactor
    • Richard Burns Rally
    • RIDE the Game
    • SimBin Studios
    • The Crew
    • WRC Series
    • General / Other Software
  • Website Discussion
    • New Website Development
    • Website Bugs
  • Archive of old sections
    • ISR Archive
    • Jessica Lopez
    • Opinion Nation
    • SSCA - Simulated Sports Car Association
    • Sim Racing League Hub
    • Top Simulation Cars of All Time
    • Throw Back Thursday

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 21 results

  1. RazzBarlow7

    El Gato Streamdeck as button box?

    Has anyone ever looked at using one of these as a button box? You can program the buttons as macros, basically. Buttons can serve multiple functions. The images are programmable.
  2. V3 $16 Downtown Los Angeles V3 UPDATED JAN 25th - 16$ USD - 120 individually cut decals for buttons boxes and steering wheels. Made From vinyl in either matte or sem-gloss. Can be easily cleaned with a damp cloth/sponge. Full Description found below with links to purchase. 16 units left SEMI GLOSS option - https://www.etsy.com/listing/544188607 SOLD OUT MATTE option - https://www.etsy.com/listing/530386492 NathanW
  3. These are available again if anyone is still interested. I made a batch for a bulk order and have extras for sale. These are mailing out in 1-2 business days they are already made and cut. V2.1 (with sway bar rotary encoders) 13.50 USD 89 individually cut decals for buttons boxes and steering wheels. Made From vinyl in either matte or sem-gloss. Can be easily cleaned with a damp cloth/sponge. Full Description found below with links to purchase. Quantities updated sept 21th - SOLD OUT 0/17 left SEMI GLOSS option - https://www.etsy.com/listing/544188607 0/15 left MATTE option - https://www.etsy.com/listing/530386492 NathanW
  4. New Button Box! Mini Speedster-A $75 Buttons are housed in an all aluminum box giving you the true look, feel and sound of flipping switches from behind the wheel. The Mini Speedster-A is 4.7 inches tall by 3.8 inches wide. - On Off toggle with protective cover - On Off On return to center toggle - Emergency push button (red or white) - Two direction rotary dial - (4) On Off On return to center mini toggles - (4) single function red push buttons - USB connection port - Plug & Play This box is designed with the VR racer in mind but perfect for anyone looking for a small powerful box. The layout is very easy to remember and navigate one handed while not being able to see it. $5 US Shipping. Free Shipping if you run a season or league season with our paint or primary logo [email protected]
  5. DSD track boss classic $80 + Shipping OBO https://photos.app.goo.gl/pq2B6aoPu7shufQs2 DSD Race King II $110 + Shipping OBO https://photos.app.goo.gl/HKaQ9lc6Atpgs4gX2 Sim Racing Hardware Sim Screen $50 + Shipping OBO https://photos.app.goo.gl/SLOUWLjPZuAtvXHY2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/yFTuxHw5rPyWSFRr2 Can ship out tomorrow am
  6. This is a complete Simseat racing setup. Comes with triple screens, computer to run on, Seat, cockpit, shifter, inverted pedals, wheel, buttkicker, and all wiring needed to plug and play. $3000.00. Come and get it!!!! I am in Easley, SC.
  7. For sale I have a DSD P2 Button Box. Will come with Printer to USB cable to power the device, and is in like new condition. Asking $80 PayPal, shipped.
  8. blwallace5

    WTB Button Box USA

    Hello, I am looking for a button box, preferably with some toggles, rotary encoders, and buttons, or a layout that is modifiable without completely scrapping the enclosure. I am also hoping to find a no matrix USB controller, but feel free to show me what you have, the worst I can say is no thanks!
  9. Hey, I'm new here and had a "great" idea awhile back and was wondering if it was possible. Instead of buying a $50 adapter to be able to use a real wheel and do whole bunch of weird wiring and having to drill hole for an e-brake (this is for an e-brake mod/paddle shifter delete/rally car wheel whatever on console) could you re-route the plug for the steering wheel out the back of the base and make a button box instead of having all of the buttons on the steering wheel?
  10. lopsided

    Custom Button Box for iRacing

    Ok, now that we have newly retired Jack (Catapult) show'n all of us "professional" retirees up I figured it was time to get to work on a little project that I'd been wanting to do. I just recently started iRacing and my DSD Black Max is labeled for rFactor 2... hmmm, what to do? After using different labels overlaid to keep track of my button mapping I decided I wanted to design a button box exclusively for iRacing. I have 13 buttons on my rim so I knew roughly what I wanted on the box: Black Box Choice: Tires, Fuel, In Car, In Pit HUD: Relative, Times, Delta (tinee button below Delta is for Ghost) Pit Stop Adjustments: A little fuel, a lot of fuel, no tires, all tires Set up choices: Bias, ARB, Mix (I labeled two buttons "AUX" as some cars use adjustments that are not available in others) Volume: Spotter and Chat volume with mute, Channel changer Another desire of mine was to use a variety of different buttons and layout that would help find the right button without looking. Rows of buttons have always been a problem for me and with the switches I had in mind you would be able to determine where your hand was by tactile alone. My little "corner" is also pretty dark and I wanted to mount LED lights directly on the box. I had been using a Velcro to attach a light on my Black Max which, while efficient, wasn't purty! I felt I needed to use the same button box mount my husband had so lovingly welded for me that holds my Black Max so I decided to use a Hammond 1599 project box. It is the same dimensions as my Black Max - this permits me to exchange boxes instead of labels. Seriously... I just wanted a little project. I'm pretty sure hubby would gladly make me a new bracket. I started collecting a variety of knobs, buttons and switches and ordered a controller board from Derek and set out to design a one-of-a-kind, custom button box for myself. Decisions Decisions This was by far the most difficult part to the project. I had a hard time figuring out just what I wanted but seemingly no problem changing my mind dozens of times. (And don't even try to tell me it's only us ladies, I've watched all of you guys change your rigs around a gazillion times!) Using Graph Paper and some double sided tape I put the "grid" in place and tinkered with my spacing and layout. Making sure to not only plot the size of the mounting holes but also consider the size of the actual button to insure they did not land too close to one another. I found a handy drawing template at our local craft shop which made quick work of calculating the drilling diameter for each button and switch without needing to use my calipers or ruler to measure. Oh yeah, and it's good for drawing too. :/ I used a sharp awl to mark each center point and took the box to my drill press. Drilled Box I was very surprised my holes ended up so nice and straight as I did not use a fence, just the dimples made by the awl to seat the drill bit. There are some things in life that I will devote a lot of time to ensure they are as near to perfect as I can get them... this was not one of them but I still took my time with it. Test Fit As you can imagine not every button would match a drill bit exactly (unless you've got the colossal set) so I used a reamer to give those of odd sizes a snug fit. Wiring I purchased Derek Speare's "no matrix" controller board. With these you won't need to "chain link" all the ground lugs together, instead, the ground wire on each switch or button goes directly back to the board. I knew using this pin style board was going to be a very tight fit as the Molex like connectors on the end of the Arduino Jumper Wires stand fairly tall. With all those wires and buttons vying for real estate inside the box I had serious doubts I'd be able to get this board to fit inside such a shallow case. (Sorta like trying to fit into my wedding gown today). In order to eliminate as much wire "bulk" as I could I cut the length of the wire as short as I dared, wiring them one by one instead of wiring all the buttons and simply plugging them into the board (a.k.a. the faster, non-retiree way). I also had to have room for those tall connectors to fit between the button rows as the 1.8" of box depth would not permit them to go above any switch. For my two volume rotary encoders I chose the CT3000-ND as these also incorporate a Push Button Switch in the encoder. So now my Chat volume knob can be pushed to mute/unmute chatting and my Spotter volume knob can be pushed to mute my lap times… something I like in practice hate during a race. You wire the encoder as normal (center is ground, outers are leads) and treat the two upper lugs as you would a typical switch. Unfortunately these do not have your typical lugs with holes which make soldering a breeze. Instead they look suited for a breadboard or jumper wire. Unfortunately while they looked like a good fit the Jumper Wires did not grip the lugs securely so on a whim I decided to gently curl the end of each lug over to give my solder and wire a place to congregate. Configuring the DSD controller board to work with rotary encoders is also very easy… like I said before, the only thing difficult about the project was the planning. Once you've got everything hooked up you can open your Game Controller>Properties and make note of which numbers light up when using the rotary encoders. Download the Configuration Utility from Derek's site and check the box number that are rotary encoders, save your changes and you're in business. Simple and straight forward. Another advantage to using the Arduino style Jumper Wires that I purchased (they come attached to each other) was separating them into pairs or triplets. It made things a little less hairy looking inside the box. I was unable to locate the correct adhesive backed PCB standoffs that were used in my DSD Black Max so I had to steal them from it to finish my custom project… but I only had two and need four. I've got some more on order (don't want the screw in types) and hopefully these will be the right ones. Graphic Overlay I've had the idea for a while now to make the entire faceplate of my button box a single overlay. In the past I've used strips of individual rows of graphics to label the buttons. That made labels very easy to change but it wasn't the look I wanted. So instead of having to sticking individual labels beneath each button or row I printed the entire faceplate - background and text. I used a sheet of glossy photo paper which I laminated for durability and placed 3M double sided adhesive on the back (pickguard adhesive actually, as it comes in large sheets). This way the entire label/faceplate was peel and stick once I was done. I can of course re-label this box if I want to in the future, however it would require me to remove the buttons. No de-soldering though, just unplugging. Kinda helps control my issues with always changing my mind. lol Laying out the words and icons were a bit more challenging as well since I'm limited software wise. I started with measurement but quickly felt my brain locking up. lol I decided to use a trick that has worked very well for me in the past... I took a straight on picture of the box with switches in place and then cropped and entered the Image Size in Photoshop to ensure it would scale properly. I won't say they are absolutely perfect but they are definitely close enough. Branding My Box Pseudo Motor Sports? yes indeedy. When I began league racing I needed a team name and as I am one of very few women in sim racing I thought the play on words as quite clever... a.k.a. PMS racing! lol Light Her Up! The corner I race in is quite dark and lights are necessary. While I liked the idea of using the LEDs "on a strip" I knew they would require an enclosure of sorts. I decided to butcher a gooseneck LED light I had and run the wires right thru the top. Mounting it was extremely easy... I drilled two small pin holes on each end of the light and I threaded wire thru to anchor it in place... think 'twist tie". The large button on the bottom right corner turns the light on and off. I must say I like it. Not only is it unique but the layout of the buttons make finding the right one easy and quick. The different shapes, sizes and heights make it easy to locate your position… similar to the nibs on a keyboard. And while I have no need for another button box this has sparked my creative nature and makes me want to make another, just for kicks and giggles. Besides… I've got a lot of parts left over. Back to retirement..... Bailey
  11. Have a tablet? Need a free button box? Limited by 3 controllers? I've been working on a little graphics project and wanted to share it with those of you who might find it helpful. Many of you have probably heard of or used Roccat's Power-Grid tablet software, but for those who haven't let me give you a brief introduction. What is ROCCAT Power-Grid? Power-Grid is a free program that runs simultaneously on your desktop (race computer) and your tablet (Android or iOS). Your tablet serves as a "remote control" permitting you to push buttons on your tablet to open a program, run a macro or simply execute a key press on your desktop. Power-Grid allows you to make your own grid of buttons using their included icons or add your own graphics. With a few simple clicks you can create a button, chose it's background/icon, give it a function and add sound and text to it or use pre-made grids that come with the software. Why bother with this if you have a real button box? I use my own button boxes for sim racing, however, physical button boxes count as a controller. Older titles like Race07, GTR2/Power and Glory, rFactor and the like limit us to 3 controllers. As a result I can't use my real button box when running these sims as it places me over the 3 controller limit. (Wheel + separate pedals + h-shifter + button box= 4 and that is after I've disconnected other items I'd prefer not to. ) I use Power-Grid mostly for older titles but have also used it for Assetto Corsa since I can never remember their keyboard shortcuts. You can make a custom grid for each of your titles so it provides just the "keys" you find helpful for that sim. That also allows you to leave your keyboard mappings as you currently have them if you use different ones in each title. It's also very helpful for those of us who are older than the posted speed limit (hey, I'm not talking interstate here, slow your roll youngens). Having each button clearly labeled helps greatly when memory does not ah, serve. Some, for instance, may desire a label like HUD while others prefer MFD... that's why I've made such a large assortment. Power-Grid's Limitations - No Landscape One of my biggest gripes with Power-Grid is the fact that it does not permit Landscape Display yet. When rotating a tablet from portrait to landscape mode there is no change to the displays orientation. And since you cannot rotate the text, icons or graphics with it's software it forces you to use it in portrait only. That no worky for me. My buttons are made for Landscape only as anyone can make a portrait display using the icons and text already available with the software. I have designed my grid to look like an actual MoTeC keypad, something like this... I made a fairly nice assortment of buttons which should cover most needs but suggestions are welcome. (PM me if you have a request). If you notice any mistakes, like a button doesn't light up or click when pressed please let me know. When the "MoTeC" button is pressed, the lights on top will light up giving you a visual indication that the button has been pressed. You will also hear a click thru your desktop computer. Rocker switches are two-part switches with the Upper and Lower parts labeled. If you have never used Power-Grid these are detailed instructions on installing my custom buttons. It is very easy but just in case someone is struggling I've tried to cover all the bases. Most will probably not need to read directions as Power-Grid labels things nicely. How To Install / Use My Buttons - Download and install ROCCAT Power-Grid on to your host/racing computer. - Download it's remote app onto your tablet (directions on linking is in link above) - Open up your race game and make note of the in-game button mappings you use (ex: M = Trackmap). These must be entered into Power-Grid for it to function, otherwise you can click til your heart's content but it won't do anything. - Download my custom button package (I have it in my Dropbox as I don't know how else to share.) - Open Power-Grid on your desktop (host) and click the Editor tab Note: your IP is needed for the two to communicate. Check to ensure your AntiVirus is not interfering if you have issues. - Click Import Package (left column, bottom) and chose the downloaded file (.rpgp) - Click on the Create New Grid icon, (right column at top) This will give you a blank slate for making your own custom grid using my buttons - After importing, you can find my buttons under Controls > Custom Controls (left column, top) When you chose a button from the list it will display it in the center column so you can see what it looks like. - After selecting a button you wish to use you must enter the keyboard key which you want mapped to this button. Enter this in the Function Box. (center column, top) Here you can also remove or change the button click sound and change the Trigger. A "Double Tap" trigger might be suitable for buttons like Ignition, Restart, View to prevent accidental taps. Note: The Active Graphic and Background URL's must not be altered or my button will not display correctly. It is designed so that the 3 small lights at top glow when pressed. Since the Text Title cannot be rotated my buttons include the text, so leave this blank in the editor. The only option you must assign is Function so that it triggers a command/key press. - After entering your mapped key under Function you can now click Add to Grid. The button is added to your grid and can be moved to any position. Repeat for each additional button you wish to add. - Once you are finished with your custom grid click Apply and save your layout. You must click Apply for changes to be seen on remote tablet. - Click Add to Bar to place your custom grid into a slot for ease of selecting. Note: Power-Grid limits you to a couple of "slots". A slot holds the Grids you choose, enabling you to switch easily between Grids. While you can purchase more slots, you don't have to. It merely simplifies things if you need 4 or more Grids at the ready at all times... most people won't. To work around this simply add the Grids you use the most to the slots and swap them out if you run out of slots. Hope you like it guys. Bailey P.S. Word files simply list what keys I have mapped for each button's functions. Download MoTeC Grid (Universal) Euro Truck Simulator Grid Word file for ETS Game Stock Car Extreme Grid Word file for GSCE RaceRoom Racing Experience Grid Word file for R3E
  12. Atomsk

    Common button functions

    I'm in the process of redesigning my rig with new hardware and currently researching parts to build a custom handbrake but since i need to buy a controller board to map the axis i got to thinking it would be a waste to only use 1 input. I havent decided on which board im going to use (dsd, bodnar, arduino, etc) but any board i buy will have multiple button/axis inputs i dont want to waste. I'm thinking of making a button box (not sure exactly where i'll mount it just yet) but from doing research on pre-fabricated units and community diy models i got to thinking what exactly would i use it for? What are some common functions across multiple games that you or people you know have mapped to button boxes? Aside from engine start, up/down/left/right inputs, enter, pause, escape, what functions do you find you use on a regular basis while driving? The sims i play are the codemaster F1 series, rfactor 2, iracing, and soon looking into asseto corsa. My new rig will have VR incorporated so i'd like to map it out in a way that i can navigate menu's with just buttons so i don't have to look for my mouse/keyboard blind but aside from the control functions i talked about above i'm not sure what car functions are worth putting on it.
  13. LOOKING FOR A BUTTON BOX LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE THANKS
  14. I have a new rseat tablet/button box mount for sale. This is the red assetto corsa edition. It was mounted to check it out but it was removed right away, and won't be used in the final configuration. SOLD for $50 shipped. The DSD button box is also available in my other thread.
  15. Hey guys, I just purchased a tablet/button box mount for my RSeat RS1 and am now looking for a compatible DSD button box. The mount claims to support DSD Track Boss, DSD Black Max, DSD Black Max II button boxes. If you have any compatible button box for sale, let me know! Thanks
  16. Hi guys, my girlfriend was nice to me and bought me a DSD Button Box which looks like http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/in-stock-now.html item RK2BKWD I have an 8020 4040 profile rig with simvibe running in chassis mode. I used some heavy duty double sided tape to mount this thing onto the rig... which worked for a few hours... before it all started rattling. Have been looking at RAM mounts with vesa attachment, however the bolt diameter to bolt onto the rig simple isn't big enough. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to mount these button boxes? Thank you
  17. I have a brand new never used, never mounted DSD Black Max II button box for sale. It was going to be mounted onto an RS1 frame but we went a different route with the build. Sold for $100 shipped A new tablet/button box mount for the RS1 frame is also available in another thread.
  18. Been working on this over Xmas, might be of interest to people here on a budget. Only tool you'll really need is a drill, and possibly a 5mm tap if you mount things the way I did. This is a combined sequential shifter, handbrake and button box all in one, running off a single USB connection. To build it you need: 2 arcade machine joysticks One decent sized enclosure One of those Chinese Zero Delay arcade encoders from eBay Your preferred momentary switches of choice (Up to 8 can be used) Extra compression springs Optional parts: Real gearknobs x 2 Thread convertors to fit the knobs Allen head bolts (Large for the joysticks, smaller M2.5 for the board mounting) 4-pin aviation style XLR connector and socket 2-way gates for the joysticks (Explained below) I'll include link below, most of the stuff can be bought from eBay vendors. I started this off a a single sequential shifter, because I had a good quality Sanwa stick lying around from an old arcade build. When I decided to add the handbrake and rehouse the whole thing in a bigger box, I went with a cheaper Chinese stick instead (£18 for the Sanwa vs £3.79 for the Chinese one) and it does the job perfectly. So I'd recommend the cheap stick if you're doing this build, the Sanwa is nice, but not necessary. You can either use the stock 4 mounting holes on these sticks, you might need slightly longer screws, but I decided just to use the 2 outer lugs. You can use 4mm bolts and a nut, but I decided to tap the holes to 5mm and use the allen head bolts. Partly for aesthetics, but also because it's easier to drill out 2 holes than 4 and not risk any mistakes. If you want to use real gear knobs, you'll need to do 2 things. A thread convertor to convert the 6mm shaft thread up to whatever your knob uses. Most cheap ones come with several plastic inserts. I used the 8mm ones. You'll need to tap a thread into the plastic insert, although it's soft plastic, so you can probably use the 8mm shaft part of your thread convertor. I used 2 different methods between the shifter and handbrake. The company I ordered the original thread convertor from never sent my 2nd order, never responded to my mail and haven't even acknowledged the Paypal refund claim either, so I'm only going to link below to the parts I used on the handbrake thread, and recommend that method, as follows. You need 2 parts. Small M6 to M8 convertor, and a short length of M8 threaded rod. I used 10cm. Now assemble it like this: If you use a shorter knob, you'll have to cut that threaded rod down a bit. The gearknob used this single convertor (Pictured in the original single shifter version). I won't give them a link for previous stated reasons, but you can find it on eBay for about 2 quid: Above I mentioned there's 2 things you need to do with the joysticks, the second one is the most important, and will require a bit of experimentation on your part as the results are subjective. The stock springs on these joysticks are not strong enough for this mod. The weight of the knobs means there's a lot of slop. I've been trying out various springs over the past month and so far I've got the stock spring still fitted, with a second slightly stronger spring also in line with it. I'm still going to continue to see if I can find a single spring that will add a bit more tension, but for now the setup I have does an ok job. Especially if you're on a budget. Another optional step here is to swap out the gates on the sticks. These are the plastic retainers on the bottom that are basically movement restrictors. The stock gates are fine, but I went with 2-way gates so the sticks only go back and forward. One thing to note is if you leave the stock gates in, you could assign extra functions to the sticks if you like. So the shifter could also adjust brake bias when pushed left or right perhaps. I upgraded my Sanwa to an 8 way gate when I used it in my arcade machine. Pic below shows the difference between that and a 2-way. Also, if you use the cheap sticks and swap out the gates, unlike the Sanwa which has a small PCB with the microswitches soldered on, the cheaper stick has them held in place by the gate. Getting them all to sit in place while you fit the gate can be a nightmare, the slightest movement can make them tip out and you end up wanting to kill yourself. Fun times. To mount the sticks, either drill out 4 holes in your enclosure to match the stock mounting positions, plus a large hole in the centre for the shaft to go through. Or, like me, you can do the two outer holes, plus the centre one. If you do the latter, hole centres are 5mm holes 65mm apart, and then a 12mm hole for the shaft right at the mid point. (Again using the original single shifter image as a reference here) To run this thing, you just need the cheap usb encoder from ebay. I drill 4 holes in the side of my enclosure and ran M2.5 bolts through with spacers inbetween. Then used small bolts to hold it in place. The USB cable from the board has it's own built in cable gland/passthrough bit, but I decided to cut the cable and wire in a 4 pin XLR connector so it could be removed if needed. To finish, if you want some buttons, drill your holes and pop them in. The USB board comes with pre-made wires with spade connectors on them. For the joysticks these will slide right on, but you'll need to cut the spades off for your buttons and solder everything. Bit of 3M Di-Noc carbon vinyl to finish and you're done. On my original shifter project, I also polished the enclosure up with wet and dry and then polshing buffing mops before putting on the 3M. Looked pretty decent. Once you plug it in, Windows will see it right away as a USB joystick and you can start gaming. Parts list in next post.
  19. All metal construction. 3 rotary push button dials, 5 push buttons, 6 toggle switches. I didn't want a plastic button box and went for this all metal one. Great product, after removing the labels, there is some glue residue left on the surface and a small scuff mark on the bottom left front. Paypal fees and shipping included, $80 for conus from the developer's iracing.com forum post: With all the effort to make the most solid, sturdy and ALL-METAL control box (not a plastic project box you can buy at radio-shack) I tried to focus on the actual design and look (and feel) for ease of use, fun and immersion factor. Also what is important to me -simple, clear (no maze-like! overcomplicated) layout -for easy learning and intuitive operation. Finally the ability to use rotary encoders (with integrated push button action too) as main dial imputs. We are pushing buttons all the time (mice, keyboards/keypads etc.) so finally something different. Hope it brings a little of a real car atmosphere into the sim world environment too. For all interested I made some more units (ready to ship!) and if there is a demand I can produce more in following weeks. Let me know. - originally designed and custom produced enclosure - all metal, heavy, black powder coated V1 (with stainless steel details V2) - compact size, ready to hard mount - with two M5 metric screws (for RAM Diamond mount 1,912 inch spacing) - simple, clear layout -for easy learning and intuitive operation - three rotary encoders - left/right/and push! operation each - five standard pushbuttons - six momentary toggle switches off (on) - USB plug and play - dimensions: 6,97 x 6,18 x 1,4 inch / 17,7 x 15,7 x 3,5 cm
  20. Jeremy.Ford

    DIY button box for under £15

    I fancied building my own simple button box and found a cheap and easy way by gathering some bits through eBay for under £15. I haven't got around to assembling this yet, so here's a preview of the parts in case anybody else is interested in doing it this sort of thing themselves. No soldering required, just a bit of of drilling to mounts the buttons. This cheap controller should work just as well for a DIY paddle shifter too! Button controller: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171989361076?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Buttons: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281421364158?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Box: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261168658631?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=560183031575&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT