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Found 10 results

  1. Hey, I'm new here and had a "great" idea awhile back and was wondering if it was possible. Instead of buying a $50 adapter to be able to use a real wheel and do whole bunch of weird wiring and having to drill hole for an e-brake (this is for an e-brake mod/paddle shifter delete/rally car wheel whatever on console) could you re-route the plug for the steering wheel out the back of the base and make a button box instead of having all of the buttons on the steering wheel?
  2. V3 $16 Downtown Los Angeles V3 UPDATED JAN 25th - 16$ USD - 120 individually cut decals for buttons boxes and steering wheels. Made From vinyl in either matte or sem-gloss. Can be easily cleaned with a damp cloth/sponge. Full Description found below with links to purchase. 16 units left SEMI GLOSS option - https://www.etsy.com/listing/544188607 SOLD OUT MATTE option - https://www.etsy.com/listing/530386492 NathanW
  3. RazzBarlow7

    El Gato Streamdeck as button box?

    Has anyone ever looked at using one of these as a button box? You can program the buttons as macros, basically. Buttons can serve multiple functions. The images are programmable.
  4. These are available again if anyone is still interested. I made a batch for a bulk order and have extras for sale. These are mailing out in 1-2 business days they are already made and cut. V2.1 (with sway bar rotary encoders) 13.50 USD 89 individually cut decals for buttons boxes and steering wheels. Made From vinyl in either matte or sem-gloss. Can be easily cleaned with a damp cloth/sponge. Full Description found below with links to purchase. Quantities updated sept 21th - SOLD OUT 0/17 left SEMI GLOSS option - https://www.etsy.com/listing/544188607 0/15 left MATTE option - https://www.etsy.com/listing/530386492 NathanW
  5. New Button Box! Mini Speedster-A $75 Buttons are housed in an all aluminum box giving you the true look, feel and sound of flipping switches from behind the wheel. The Mini Speedster-A is 4.7 inches tall by 3.8 inches wide. - On Off toggle with protective cover - On Off On return to center toggle - Emergency push button (red or white) - Two direction rotary dial - (4) On Off On return to center mini toggles - (4) single function red push buttons - USB connection port - Plug & Play This box is designed with the VR racer in mind but perfect for anyone looking for a small powerful box. The layout is very easy to remember and navigate one handed while not being able to see it. $5 US Shipping. Free Shipping if you run a season or league season with our paint or primary logo [email protected]
  6. DSD track boss classic $80 + Shipping OBO https://photos.app.goo.gl/pq2B6aoPu7shufQs2 DSD Race King II $110 + Shipping OBO https://photos.app.goo.gl/HKaQ9lc6Atpgs4gX2 Sim Racing Hardware Sim Screen $50 + Shipping OBO https://photos.app.goo.gl/SLOUWLjPZuAtvXHY2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/yFTuxHw5rPyWSFRr2 Can ship out tomorrow am
  7. This is a complete Simseat racing setup. Comes with triple screens, computer to run on, Seat, cockpit, shifter, inverted pedals, wheel, buttkicker, and all wiring needed to plug and play. $3000.00. Come and get it!!!! I am in Easley, SC.
  8. For sale I have a DSD P2 Button Box. Will come with Printer to USB cable to power the device, and is in like new condition. Asking $80 PayPal, shipped.
  9. blwallace5

    WTB Button Box USA

    Hello, I am looking for a button box, preferably with some toggles, rotary encoders, and buttons, or a layout that is modifiable without completely scrapping the enclosure. I am also hoping to find a no matrix USB controller, but feel free to show me what you have, the worst I can say is no thanks!
  10. lopsided

    Custom Button Box for iRacing

    Ok, now that we have newly retired Jack (Catapult) show'n all of us "professional" retirees up I figured it was time to get to work on a little project that I'd been wanting to do. I just recently started iRacing and my DSD Black Max is labeled for rFactor 2... hmmm, what to do? After using different labels overlaid to keep track of my button mapping I decided I wanted to design a button box exclusively for iRacing. I have 13 buttons on my rim so I knew roughly what I wanted on the box: Black Box Choice: Tires, Fuel, In Car, In Pit HUD: Relative, Times, Delta (tinee button below Delta is for Ghost) Pit Stop Adjustments: A little fuel, a lot of fuel, no tires, all tires Set up choices: Bias, ARB, Mix (I labeled two buttons "AUX" as some cars use adjustments that are not available in others) Volume: Spotter and Chat volume with mute, Channel changer Another desire of mine was to use a variety of different buttons and layout that would help find the right button without looking. Rows of buttons have always been a problem for me and with the switches I had in mind you would be able to determine where your hand was by tactile alone. My little "corner" is also pretty dark and I wanted to mount LED lights directly on the box. I had been using a Velcro to attach a light on my Black Max which, while efficient, wasn't purty! I felt I needed to use the same button box mount my husband had so lovingly welded for me that holds my Black Max so I decided to use a Hammond 1599 project box. It is the same dimensions as my Black Max - this permits me to exchange boxes instead of labels. Seriously... I just wanted a little project. I'm pretty sure hubby would gladly make me a new bracket. I started collecting a variety of knobs, buttons and switches and ordered a controller board from Derek and set out to design a one-of-a-kind, custom button box for myself. Decisions Decisions This was by far the most difficult part to the project. I had a hard time figuring out just what I wanted but seemingly no problem changing my mind dozens of times. (And don't even try to tell me it's only us ladies, I've watched all of you guys change your rigs around a gazillion times!) Using Graph Paper and some double sided tape I put the "grid" in place and tinkered with my spacing and layout. Making sure to not only plot the size of the mounting holes but also consider the size of the actual button to insure they did not land too close to one another. I found a handy drawing template at our local craft shop which made quick work of calculating the drilling diameter for each button and switch without needing to use my calipers or ruler to measure. Oh yeah, and it's good for drawing too. :/ I used a sharp awl to mark each center point and took the box to my drill press. Drilled Box I was very surprised my holes ended up so nice and straight as I did not use a fence, just the dimples made by the awl to seat the drill bit. There are some things in life that I will devote a lot of time to ensure they are as near to perfect as I can get them... this was not one of them but I still took my time with it. Test Fit As you can imagine not every button would match a drill bit exactly (unless you've got the colossal set) so I used a reamer to give those of odd sizes a snug fit. Wiring I purchased Derek Speare's "no matrix" controller board. With these you won't need to "chain link" all the ground lugs together, instead, the ground wire on each switch or button goes directly back to the board. I knew using this pin style board was going to be a very tight fit as the Molex like connectors on the end of the Arduino Jumper Wires stand fairly tall. With all those wires and buttons vying for real estate inside the box I had serious doubts I'd be able to get this board to fit inside such a shallow case. (Sorta like trying to fit into my wedding gown today). In order to eliminate as much wire "bulk" as I could I cut the length of the wire as short as I dared, wiring them one by one instead of wiring all the buttons and simply plugging them into the board (a.k.a. the faster, non-retiree way). I also had to have room for those tall connectors to fit between the button rows as the 1.8" of box depth would not permit them to go above any switch. For my two volume rotary encoders I chose the CT3000-ND as these also incorporate a Push Button Switch in the encoder. So now my Chat volume knob can be pushed to mute/unmute chatting and my Spotter volume knob can be pushed to mute my lap times… something I like in practice hate during a race. You wire the encoder as normal (center is ground, outers are leads) and treat the two upper lugs as you would a typical switch. Unfortunately these do not have your typical lugs with holes which make soldering a breeze. Instead they look suited for a breadboard or jumper wire. Unfortunately while they looked like a good fit the Jumper Wires did not grip the lugs securely so on a whim I decided to gently curl the end of each lug over to give my solder and wire a place to congregate. Configuring the DSD controller board to work with rotary encoders is also very easy… like I said before, the only thing difficult about the project was the planning. Once you've got everything hooked up you can open your Game Controller>Properties and make note of which numbers light up when using the rotary encoders. Download the Configuration Utility from Derek's site and check the box number that are rotary encoders, save your changes and you're in business. Simple and straight forward. Another advantage to using the Arduino style Jumper Wires that I purchased (they come attached to each other) was separating them into pairs or triplets. It made things a little less hairy looking inside the box. I was unable to locate the correct adhesive backed PCB standoffs that were used in my DSD Black Max so I had to steal them from it to finish my custom project… but I only had two and need four. I've got some more on order (don't want the screw in types) and hopefully these will be the right ones. Graphic Overlay I've had the idea for a while now to make the entire faceplate of my button box a single overlay. In the past I've used strips of individual rows of graphics to label the buttons. That made labels very easy to change but it wasn't the look I wanted. So instead of having to sticking individual labels beneath each button or row I printed the entire faceplate - background and text. I used a sheet of glossy photo paper which I laminated for durability and placed 3M double sided adhesive on the back (pickguard adhesive actually, as it comes in large sheets). This way the entire label/faceplate was peel and stick once I was done. I can of course re-label this box if I want to in the future, however it would require me to remove the buttons. No de-soldering though, just unplugging. Kinda helps control my issues with always changing my mind. lol Laying out the words and icons were a bit more challenging as well since I'm limited software wise. I started with measurement but quickly felt my brain locking up. lol I decided to use a trick that has worked very well for me in the past... I took a straight on picture of the box with switches in place and then cropped and entered the Image Size in Photoshop to ensure it would scale properly. I won't say they are absolutely perfect but they are definitely close enough. Branding My Box Pseudo Motor Sports? yes indeedy. When I began league racing I needed a team name and as I am one of very few women in sim racing I thought the play on words as quite clever... a.k.a. PMS racing! lol Light Her Up! The corner I race in is quite dark and lights are necessary. While I liked the idea of using the LEDs "on a strip" I knew they would require an enclosure of sorts. I decided to butcher a gooseneck LED light I had and run the wires right thru the top. Mounting it was extremely easy... I drilled two small pin holes on each end of the light and I threaded wire thru to anchor it in place... think 'twist tie". The large button on the bottom right corner turns the light on and off. I must say I like it. Not only is it unique but the layout of the buttons make finding the right one easy and quick. The different shapes, sizes and heights make it easy to locate your position… similar to the nibs on a keyboard. And while I have no need for another button box this has sparked my creative nature and makes me want to make another, just for kicks and giggles. Besides… I've got a lot of parts left over. Back to retirement..... Bailey