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tezpez85 posted a topic in ThrustmasterHey all,I recorded this video a few weeks ago and have only made it public now because I wanted to thoroughly test the wheel and make sure there are no issues with it. This is actually my second TGT, it's a warranty replacement for the first one that died after developing this 'clickiness'. This TGT is now out of warranty. I imagine there are more of you out there with this problem, so I decided to try and fix it myself and make a video tutorial out of it. I've made it through a few RaceOnOZ ACC races (90 min enduro, 2 x 30 min races), a bunch of practice and 8 stages of Dirt Rally 2. Good news is that it's completely quiet, and the issues I had with it being loud and clicky are gone. Please read the text under the video before attempting this upgrade / fix.DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES YOU MAY INCUR TO YOURSELF, OTHERS, YOUR PROPERTY OR YOUR THRUSTMASTER T-GT IF YOU MODIFY IT. YOU WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY BY ATTEMPTING TO MODIFY YOUR THRUSTMASTER T-GT. THIS VIDEO IS FOR DEMONSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY AND IS IN NO WAY AN ENDORSEMENT TO FOLLOW THE PROCEDURE IN THIS VIDEO.My Thrustmaster T-GT is a great wheel base, however it's recently gotten very noisy. It sounded like the cooling fan was clicking, so I decided to open it up and do something about it as it was out of warranty. This is actually my second wheel base, the first one had to go back under warranty when it stopped working after developing this clicking.Big thanks to Sim Racing Garage's original review of the T-GT, only through that video did I have any idea of how to open the wheel base up. It is linked here: The fan I use to replace the cooling fan in the video is the Noctua NF A4x20 5V, the product page of which is here:https://noctua.at/en/nf-a4x20-5v
Hello everyone, I just wanted to present my T300RS wheel modification I just finished, if it can help someone or just give ideas for your own project. I used a GT2i 34cm wheel: ( https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00TFAICUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ), some switches ( https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B074XDQL7Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ), made some parts with Tinkercad then "3dprinted" them (switches supports, paddles fixations, wheel adapter) and also used some threaded rod with lock nuts. None of the original parts were altered or modified excepted solders I made on the board. No keys were lost: I kept SE an ST original keys, but linked all missing ones to my new switches. Yellow: 3 and 4, Red: 5 and 6. Blue: L2 R2. Center: up down left right and the most important !!!!! the Green for the horn !!!! (PS key ). Paddles are still on 1 and 2.