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Found 41 results

  1. Local pick up only. Will ship if buyer pays. Birmingham, AL Selling Obutto R3Volution Gaming Cockpit in great condition with gearshift mount, triple monitor mount, keyboard mount, acrylic tabletops, and cup holder. Hate it sell but I was disabled in a motorcycle accident and cant get in and out of it anymore. $700
  2. I need to raise the rim about 14cm more, due to a NLRv3 motion-platform. Seems like Rseat might be able to create a longer arm to hold the Wheel, but it's not certain yet.. Since it's not certain, I'm looking for some DIY options.. Is there a sturdy way to increase the height? The default max-height is already too low, even without the motion platform installed.. I'm just out of ideas on how to do this.. Is it possible to stack 80/20's, and then mount the steering-servo directly on to the 80/20s? I'm attaching a Picture of what I mean. Maybe you guys can have some good advice for me.
  3. Greetings, I am getting back into sim racing after a few years hideous. My previous rig was a g27 mounted to a desktop with triple 30" HP Z30i monitors, freetrack ir, and powered by watercooled i7 920 and a amd radeon 5870. To be honest, I used my PC more for FSX than racing as it was a hassle mounting and unmounting the g27 every time I wanted to race; F1 2010, Dirt 2, test drive, burnout paradise, etc. Previous to that i use to love the nascar racing sims, but they have seem to disappear. About a year ago I received an simraceway SRW-S1 handheld F1 style controller, and I tested out AC and pCars on my new i7-6700k / gtx1080 FTW rig to see what PC could do, and after a few minute my forearms were burning! The controller worked fine once I tuned it a little, and got use to hold a steering wheel! Instantly I wanted my g27 back, with real racing sim cockpit! I have an HTC Vive, so naturally I had to try AC and pCars in VR. To me it give an more immersion experience via the head tracking than freetrack without the need of the triples, but resolution suffer of course. I have been scouring the net to find the ultimate cockpit that supports my needs for VR with options for triples or large HDTV, stability, flexibility for adjusting to various driver (tall / short), motion v3 compatible, and somewhat portable i.e., drag it around a bit in the office if need. I am leaning toward the realseat n1 with the nlr motion v3 and mounting brackets. I am less confident on controls. I also have an XBOX One that I may use on the rig as well, but I am bias to PC gaming. I have this in my THRUSMASTER amazon wish list: Thrustmaster TS-PC Racing Wheel Thrustmaster TH8A 7-Speed Shifter THRUSTMASTER T3PA-PRO ADD-ON THREE PEDAL SET ~$840 USD For Fanatec there is a promo for the Forza Motorsport Wheel Bundle for Xbox One & PC containing : ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5, ClubSport Steering Wheel Universal Hub for Xbox One, ClubSport Wheel Rim GT Forza Motorsport, ClubSport Pedals V3, ClubSport Shifter SQ V 1.5 for ~$1600 USD. This bundle may work fine, I just don't know if I need the universal hub if I don't play the xbox racing games as much. I could just choose the CSW 2.5, GT2 wheel (to start :-), v3 pedals, and shifter for about the same price. thoughts? I see in this forum some people are using a TX base and wheel with the fanatec shifter. For simplicity my newbie brain is saying to stick with one brand for all controls aka g27, but I am open to ideas. I realize that all of this expensive hardware will probably not make me a faster driver, but the immersive experience is worth it for me. Please give me your opinions on the combination of controls that you thinking would work well. Thanks, Curtis
  4. Having to get rid of this as we need the room in the office and my "Toys" aren't allowed anymore! Perfect for a triple screen setup or even VR as the low position makes you feel like you are in a low single seater. Painted In Alonso's Renault colours custom spray finish with vinyl graphics. Stereo Speakers fitted behind seat for audio These were manufactured in Germany but are no longer available, hence you don't see them come up for sale too often. They were pretty expensive (around £4000) and therefore most of the units imported to the UK were used for corporate events and publicity purposes. The cockpit has wheels on the back with a lifting handle molded into the front of the base, so it's very easy to move around. The section where the wheel is mounted slides back and forth to enable easy entry and exit. Both the seat and the pedal mount are very easily adjusted to allow for arm length and leg length. There are some small holes where the 2 halves of the cockpit were joined together with pop rivets and had to be drilled out so that the cockpit could be transported in the 2 halves. This can be seen in 1 of the photos but it is at the base lip and is quite small and could easily be repaired. The original footplate is included. I have also custom made a simple baseplate for fitting flatter pedal sets. Message me if you have any questions £500 Collection from Bromsgrove, B60 In the UK I may be able to deliver if distance is not too far and Petrol costs are covered
  5. Dmitry Rykov

    My cockpit racing video

    Assetto Corsa: 4K Hotlap Porsche 911 Carrera RSR 3 0 Cup on Imola
  6. Dmitry Rykov

    My new cockpit setup

    My cockpit setup triplescren Thrustmaster RR Game Seat RR3033
  7. Started with Steve Spenceley's basic f1 cockpit plans and let it evolve naturally
  8. Ok so i just purchased a thrustmaster tx base, one of the rims, t3pa pro pedals, and the th8a shifter. i sold my pc to buy most of this but will be getting a new one within a few months. I will be racing on Forza horizion three, Forza 6, asseto, project cars, and iracing when i get my pc back( i have a macbook pro but idk if its compatable.) I still have all 3 of my monitors as i use them to game on console and my macbook until i can get a new pc. I plan on using my 40in tv as the main screen for sim racing. im looking for a cockpit under 500(this is my max id prefer to stay lower if possible). it needs to have a seat wheel stand shifter stand and hopefully a tv mount with the option to upgrade to triple monitor mount when i get my new pc in the upcoming months. Thankyou for your support.
  9. First off I apologize if this topic has already been discussed on the forum but I'm kinda in panic mode. I have a Obutto Revolution chassis and I just took delivery of a Asus ROG Swift PG348Q curved Ultra wide monitor. I was under the impression it would be a standard Vesa mount however when you remove the stand there seems to be a big issue. Removing the stand basically leaves a hole the monitor. There are 4 little finish style screws that are in a pattern that would work on a mount but their just tiny finish screws. Beside that, the screws are inside the recessed arrea where the factory stand installs. Does anybody have any idea what I can do to get this monitor mounted to my chassis? I've done some online research but came up empty handed. Am I missing something here? I could really use some help..Thanks everybody!
  10. hi all, wanted to ask around if anyone has experience with the Simetek Cockpit K2 cockpit/ rig, mounting and using DirectDrive wheels (OSW, DIY, AF or LB) on it. meaning experience with directdrive on this cockpit K2, does it wobble/ move/ sway/ flex? rigid or not rigid enough? thank you all.
  11. I live in NE Florida (Jacksonville) Looking to purchase a cockpit for a decent price, looking at Gt Omega Art or Volair sim, also in need of a th8a. Also interested in anything I could use with my tx base and 599 evo wheel OR ACCESSORIES for Oculus Rift Thanks!!
  12. Looking to buy a used sim cockpit. Looking at something along the lines of a playseat or openwheeler etc. Does not need to be fancy as I have a limited budget. I live in southern Wisconsin and would be willing to drive a couple hours. Would also pay for shipping if the total cost makes sense. Let me know what's available. Thanks.
  13. Hello one and all! Just swapping frames and I have an issue with the cable length on the fanatec handbrake on the GTOmega ART frame. *yes some will say just mount it near or on the shifter, but I want a conventional set up due to being in VR 90% of the time and I can't un train 30 years of muscle memory! The frame base is set as short as it can be but I can still hardly reach the main body with the cable. I've had to pin in down due to snagging. Are there longer cable options, if not has anyone spliced one to extend it and have any advice? imaner76 aka, Chris. *attached to V3 pedals
  14. Hello, thank you for checking out my "How to" on building my simrig! I have attached zip files for you to download that have all the information needed for every single piece to build the rig, along with plans, sections, and elevations with some dimensions for reference. I will try to explain how I chose to go about assembling it below. - Attachments are at the bottom of this post, after the pictures. **** I strongly encourage you to take time and familiarize yourself with all of the information given before you begin construction. **** A few pieces of the build will require you to take some of your own dimensions to have it work best with all of your equipment. Refer to the "Piece Tickets.pdf". - For example, you will need to take specific dimensions of the monitor you decide to use. These will be very important in determining where the cutouts will be located for the monitor and front speakers, and how large they will need to be. **** If you have any questions about anything or see that I have left out something needed to build the rig, please send me a message or reply to this topic and I will do my best to explain anything you need. I would suggest that you reply to this topic, that way if anyone else has the same question they can get an answer just by following the posts. If you decide to build my rig, I would greatly appreciate it if you could add a picture of your finished build to this topic. I am very interested to see how you will make it your own, and if you decide to make any modifications to it. Feel free to change anything you would like about the build, I have only given information for how to build my rig exactly. - If you would like to play computer games on it, I currently do not have it designed with that in mind. If you wanted to though, a simple solution would be to put your computer inside the large panel that you use to access the back of the monitor & front speakers, Depending on how large the monitor is you use, it should be able to fit inside well. I would suggest that your computer has a good cooling system in it though, because it could get quite warm being enclosed in a small area. Key things to pay attention to: 1. All of my dimensions given are based on using 5/8" thick wood. If you use any thickness other than 5/8", many dimensions will be slightly off which will cause problems with pieces lining up correctly. If you use a different thickness of wood, you will need to add/subtract the difference it makes in all pieces that would be affected. 2. I used a 32" LG monitor. I would assume you could go up to a 36", but I have not verified that, and it would still depend on the overall dimensions of the monitor, and front speakers. You will need to reference dimensions given and make sure the monitor and speakers you choose will fit inside the designated areas for them. 3. Plan out ahead of time how you plan to finish the rig off. Whether you decide to add material, paint it, stain it, etc. You should figure that out before assembling the pieces so you know how hard it will be to finish off once fully built, or how much prep work you will need to do before assembling. 4. The plans I have designed were for my own personal preference, using a Fanatec CSR Elite wheel, Fanatec CSR Elite Pedals, and Fanatec CSR Shifter Set. Please review the dimensions given and figure out if they will work well with your equipment of choice, and personal preferences. Certain dimensions were not provided (such as location of the seat, etc.) because you should determine that for where you would like it yourself. 5. I have not provided information on how to attach all of the pieces together, I used screws. - First I drilled a pilot hole, then recessed it some so when I drilled in the screw, it would not stick out from the wood. I also did not use any backup support to drill into, I just lined the pieces up and drilled directly into the ends. If you do this as well, make sure you are very careful when drilling your pilot holes and make sure you are going through the wood as close as possible to the center of the 5/8" thickness. If you are off by too much, the screw will end up coming through the side of a piece, or cause the wood to split and not hold the screw in place. If you choose to add extra wood backing so you have a wider area to drill into, you should be able to cut small pieces from the left over 4' x 8' sheets of wood. *** Plan out what you will do before starting construction. 6. IMPORTANT: I did not build this rig with plans for it to be easily taken apart or transported. When fully built it is too large to fit through typical doorways. Make sure that where you build it is where you are going to plan on keeping it, because you will not be able to get it out of its location unless it is disassembled. 7. You will probably want to run all the wiring for the speakers before you close in certain areas of the rig. Once it is fully assembled, it will be difficult to run certain wiring, such as the rear left surround speaker. I also would encourage you to make sure you use something to hold the wiring in place in certain areas, so if you disconnect a wire it can't fall down through a hole pass through, and be near impossible to get back out. 8. (I will add more to the list as I think of them, or are brought to my attention) I hope I have given enough information for you to complete the build as easily as possible. Some of my ticketing for the pieces and layout may be confusing though. I tried to fit everything including the dimensions onto the size of a typical sheet of paper so you can print them out and follow along without needing a computer by your side the entire time you are laying out and cutting the pieces. - Please print out all of the tickets, and use a highlighter to check off dimensions and pieces as you know they have been drawn and then cut. Thank you very much for your interest in my rig, and building it for yourself. I became inspired to build/design this rig from seeing other peoples amazing creations on this site, and I hope that I have been able to inspire you in some way to build your own rig. It really is rewarding and almost as fun as actually racing in it once you're done the build....almost. Ha. Happy Racing!!! Material required for build: (8) ---- Sheets of 8' x 4' x 5/8" wood. (8) ---- Hinges for door panels. (5) ---- Knobs/Door pulls for door panels. (1,000,000...jk) ---- Screws. Recommended tools: - Circular Saw - Jigsaw - Drill - Sander - Measuring Tape - Level - Router (for recessing holes on shifter mount) ****Please download all attachments. They are all required in order to have all information needed to cut the pieces, and build the rig. Good luck! STEP 1: BASE - P-14, (2) P-15 Hold P-15 pieces 5/8" in from the edges of piece P-14 STEP 2: BASE - (3) P-16 STEP 3: LEFT SIDE (BOTTOM) - P-1, P-2, P-3, P-4, P-5, P-6, (1) P-7, (1) P-8, (1) P-9 STEP 4: RIGHT SIDE (BOTTOM) - (1) P-7. (1) P-8, (1) P-9, P-10, P-11, P-12, P-13 I placed the amp for my transducer on piece P-10. If you choose to use an amp with transducer, this is where I would recommend you also placing the amp as it is easy to reach with your right hand. Dimensions and cutouts will need to be taken for your personal placement. You will also need to have a cutout somewhere near the rear of piece P-10 for the speaker wire to run though, to the transducer located under your seat. STEP 5: ATTACH SIDES TO BOTTOM Attach the assembled sides from Steps 3 and 4, to the bottom of the rig from Step 1 STEP 6: MONITOR STAND - P-17, P-18, (2) P-19 Pieces P-18 and (2) P-19 can be modified depending on how you choose to support your monitor. If you extend them to the back of piece P-17, and widen piece P-18, you can probably place a computer on it as well as the monitor. STEP 7: MONITOR PANEL - P-20, (2) P-21, (2) P-22 Attach pieces (2) P-21 & (2) P-22 to piece P-20 before installing piece P-20. All cutouts on P-20 will need to be determined by you based on monitor size & speaker choice. Piece sizes for (2) P-21 & (2) P-22 will be determined by monitor cutout on P-20. STEP 8: FRONT SPEAKER STANDS & SIDE SUPPORTS - (4) P-42, (2) P-43, (2) P-41 Dimensions will need to be taken. Heights and widths depend on your monitor and speaker choice, and cutout locations on piece P-20. Piece P-41 is added to help pieces P-32 & P-33 together. STEP 9: SIDES (TOP)- P-32, P-33 Piece P-32 goes above piece P-1 from Step 3. Piece P-33 goes above piece P-13 from Step 4. STEP 10: CEILING, CENTER CHANNEL & LIGHT OPENING - P-23, (2) P-24, (2) P-25, P-26, P-27, (2) P-28 Attach all pieces needed to piece P-23 before installing P-23. Verify ahead of time that your center channel speaker will fit on the base designed to hold it. STEP 11: DIVIDERS - (2) P-29, P-30, P-31 STEP 12: BACK PANEL W DOORS - P-37, (2) P-38 Hinges required to attach pieces P-38. STEP 13: FRONT PANEL W DOORS - P-34, P-35, P-36 Hinges required to attach pieces P-35 & P-36. The opening at the bottom left of piece P-34 is where I have the surge protector located. All electronics should be plugged into it, then you can run just the one power cord from the surge protector out to a wall outlet. STEP 14: ROOF W DOOR - P-39, P-40 Hinges required to attach piece P-40. STEP 15: REVERSE MOUNT PEDAL STAND - (2) P-44, P-45, P-46, P-47 Stand is optional STEP 16: BASE FOR SEAT - (2) P-54, (2) P-55 Location and height should be determined by you. (I'm missing the pictures, I will update when I find them.) STEP 17: MOUNT FOR SHIFTERS - (2) P-48, P-49, P-50, P-51, P-52, P-53 Shifter Mount is optional. Cutting the metal rods that were included with your Fanatec CSR Shifter Set will be required. The length of the metal rods, and depth/specific location of the recessed holes in the wood will need to be determined by you. If you choose to use a different shifter other than the Fanatec CSR Shifter Set, this mount will not work. FINISHED! SIMRIG "EXPLODED" VIEW (I'm missing the picture, I'll update when I find it) ****Please download all attachments. They are all required in order to have all information needed to cut the pieces, and build the rig. Good luck! The most important attachments are the "Layout Tickets" & "Piece Tickets" MBoyerRig-2dPlans.zip Piece Tickets.pdf Layout Tickets.pdf MBoyerRig-PieceMarkPictures.zip
  15. Darin Gangi

    Obutto R3VOLUTION Review

    Presenting our review of the Obutto Revolution. You may remember our review of the OZone by Obutto. Now we have our hands on their top end model, the Revolution. Watch and see what we thought about it. We hope you enjoy the show !