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Everything posted by simul8r

  1. Heya ISR peeps! Glad to have found this site and recently registered. I guess I should start a thread on my homebuilt simulating pod. All based on 2 inch PVC pipe and fittings @ 4-5mm wall thickness, a few scrap pieces of MDF wood, some paint, Logitech's G25 gear, a salvaged Integra seat from a auto junk yard, a 50watt Aura bass shaker under the seat, and since I also built a homemade 720p DIY projector I'm simming in the garage/mancave on a 8 foot wide screen. The pod is fully adjustable except for the foot pedals, I'm 5'11" tall @ 210 lbs. The steering wheel tilts and the shifter mount slides up/down for driver tweaking comfort as well as the seat on it's original sliders. The pod is all glued together so it is rock solid with no squeeks at all as I've always been asked. I'm also a moderator at a projector/cnc diy forum called I've created a thread on the pod with others providing their own ideas to include for more tweaking ability plus a modification for an attached monitor stand. Anyways, here's the link to the LumenLab thread: Site is no longer live (Darin Gangi) And here's photobucket with just pictures and the plans: Here's the link to the plans: And here are a few photos of the rig: sim
  2. Nicely done Arri3. What is your opinion on the design? Do you have any advise of the build that could help others? Also, from where are you from and had built this?
  3. Thanks for posting your build schmitzna. It's awesome to see someone still rocking the old Mark I design. Nicely done on the rig btw.
  4. Greetings PPIV, you can find the plans at the bottom of page 7 and continues from there in explaining the details of materials and the process of the build. Good luck and be sure to leave a photo of your build here once your done.
  5. Thanks Jurld for the post. You've hit all points describing the process of the build. As always, I suggest using slow curing glue or bonding agent instead of the PVC cement that sets quickly. And after bonding pieces together place a set screw just to hold things in place as they cure. BTW just a tip, isolating the rig off the ground while adding buttkickers or regular transducers magnifies the sensation even more.
  6. Thank you John for the donation and Aim High buddy! BTW, the rig looks good with the blue
  7. Thanks for the share ThiZo, What are your views on the construction? Is your gaming chair adjustable?
  8. Nice build PhotoVirtuoso, looking forward to more pics once it's completed.
  9. Not unless your able to pry them wide enough to fit over and around the pipes after you've removed the screw. It's hard but can be done otherwise don't glue the end's so you're able to add or remove.
  10. Hi Flash6, I thought these drain, waste & vent fittings were made of ABS but they now seem to be coming out in PVC. I researched and found that they are made strictly for non pressurized use compared to the Scheduled 40 PVC which is used for pressured flow. Therefore they may not be as strong in comparison, however, I have seen others build their rigs using DWV/ABS and they seem to hold. I do know that ABS is a bit brittle than PVC which is why they are strictly meant to be used for waste, etc.. Whether DWV/PVC is equal to DWV/ABS in strength is unknown.
  11. Enjoy the build Devil, I look forward to see what you come up with at the end. Drop pics when able.
  12. Very nice build SporkX. Thanks for posting photos, really appreciate it. How is the tilt design working for you?
  13. It's been a while but first I would suggest not using PVC glue and find something that will allow you more time before setting. About 5 to 10 minutes so adjustments can be made. There are some pieces that will require some persuasion which you probably already found out during dry fitting. I would suggest completing the sides first and combine the 2 with the lateral pipes. Also, be sure to compress the pipes and fittings as far as they can go with each other. Otherwise, it may throw the rest of the sections off. A rubber mallet helps.
  14. Greetings Beany and welcome to the forum. There is a link to the plans below in my signature. If you continue on further from this page you will find instructions of how I built the footpedals, shifter board and others. If your'e quite new and not confident in the process of building I'd suggest teaming up with somebody who is and also who might have tools. I would consider the build mild to moderate for someone who is familiar and has dealt with construction but in your case might be more of moderate to difficult. The rig with the longest pipe does include another 3" piece between the connectors and yes with a 45 elbow. Correct, the 37-1/4 pipe will have to be shortened down to i believe 34" but mock up should should easily determine this. BTW, you should get yourself a hacksaw with a guide and not depend on someone from Home Depot to cut the pipes for you. There are alot of pieces and frankly it's your build not theirs, they might disregard a 1/4" more or less as acceptable tolerances. The Strong Ties are sold with bolts. The U bolt is 6 inches @ 3/8's thick and the pictures I earlier mentioned should show how the steering wheel pivot is done with washers. Good luck and enjoy the build.
  15. They are called Simpson Strong Ties for pipe rails; model #PGT2-R. Here's a link to a local hardware store around me
  16. I always wondered how the design might stand up to a DD wheel, you might just be the first. So, the PVC parts going vertically up were strong enough to take the OSW's punishment without any metal tubes? Any flex or wobble in that area? Were they put together with just screws? When you mentioned the 'rails' flexed, how so?
  17. Looks like a well executed build in progress TAZ! Is it difficult to get in and out of the rig with the side tables in place?
  18. Nice Looking forward to seeing it Mark. About 3 shaker cans should cover the rig.
  19. Welcome Mark, the plans should accommodate your height but perform a dry setup prior to finalizing the build just to be sure. The extra fittings under the seat was added by another builder with the idea to raise the seat. I found that 12 inches from the ground to the seat was my preferred target. Any higher and I'm unable to reach the pedals properly which then means raising the pedals and elongating the rig all over again. If you do plan to add the bottom be prepared to shorten the rig for sure.
  20. Thanks kransk, glad you enjoyed the build. Especially like the color scheme you have going with the rig.
  21. Hey everybody, just wanted to inform the forum that I made changes to the title of this thread that indicates where my SIMUL8R MK II plans are now currently located. Plus I corrected my signature below that also directs to the plans and construction as well. Keep building and don't forget to submit a photo of your build, I'm always interested to see what you come up. Cheers! sim
  22. You're welcome Kranskinator. Your rig looks good and from the looks of it appears you're using both PVC and ABS material. Unless, ABS also comes in white in AUS. Keep me informed of it's finalization when you can. I'm curious to see how the kids enjoy it. Good luck.
  23. Welcome to ISR Dizel. I would suggest googling 'convert mm to cm' and that should provide you assistance for your needs. Good luck.
  24. Thanks Nitro. I would agree that the idea of adding sand or cement is not necessary. I believe that would greatly diminish any vibrations I get from the steering wheel which shortens the immersion factor overall. Glad the plans helped towards a metal rig in the future.
  25. Looking good Adam. Keep us updated when you finalize the build. I'd appreciate it.