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FREE you pay shipping custom Logitech G25 with 15" OEM Grant wheel, DSD adapter, custom aluminum paddle shifters, custon OEM pistol grip shifter, custon inverted pedals with Nixim brake mod. All FREE you just pay shipping. All in working condition. Upgraded to Fanatec just want to help out a beginning sim racer.

Here i want to share with you my F1 T150 modded steering wheel. The idea is to use the base of T150 Steering wheel , cutted of external , and add f1 plate on it. So i realize with laser cut an f1 plate 2.5mm Next realize wood handle After paint, carboon vinil wrap Next with a USB numeric pad for pc, i made and added button panel To have a 3d effect i create with 3dprinter a mini hill to put on center of steering wheel. But this is not on now. I put them as soon I buy label for buttons and create label for button panel, but this is not on now. I put them tonight. Photo are at now.

also SOLD a long time ago, updating thread now

I managed to snap the shaft off the funkyswitch on my Fanatec Universal Hub. I've never really liked that switch anyway - I think the Xbox logo looks out of place and the joystick function is hard to use with gloves on - so I thought I'd try replacing it with a simple left/right/push encoder from Leo Bodnar's site. Anyway, I've rewired it how I assume it should work but it gives no output at all. Can any electronics experts give me any pointers here? This is the wiring layout from the original funkyswitch - A, B, C, D are the joystick directions, so I haven't wired those. I don't know what the significance of the 11ø1 terminal is... This is the new encoder I got to replace it: One the new switch I have Input 1 wired to Encoder A, Input 2 to Encoder B and Input 3 to Push. Where I am stuck is what configuration to use for the ground terminals. I have tried wiring them both to ground, but there's no output at all, not even from the left/right encoder. I do have a brand new Alps replacement for the funkyswitch itself, so I could always just put that back in there and restore it to how it was, but I'd rather not - the new encoder has a much nicer, more solid feel. Anyone got any tips?

its from december 2017 mate

As far as just wiring an ebrake to the TX base you could use an rca cable (or a connector of your choice) cut in half, half wired to the yellow button on the base. Then wire the other half of the cable to the momentary switch on the handbrake. There are a few threads and youtube videos you can find on this. You might want to go the arduino sketch route. It replicates the Ferrari 458 rim and would be similar to building a custom wheel-button pad. Check this guy's videos on it to start then sift this site. You'll need to take apart the base somewhat to extract the 6 din from the steering shaft and mount it as a port on the base. Hot glue is your friend. Then find a box and buttons you like. If you're that far into it, you should be able to find out which wire(s) go to the paddles and splice into it and run it to the hub for custom paddles - for non rally. An authentic arduino nano can be found on amazon right now for less than $20. But if you want, you can just solder wires to the button contact points on the 458 rim board and run them to your buttons/switches. I have done this with two buttons on my T300 rim, run through the base via screw contact points on the hub and wheel - to my custom sequential shifter. The buttons are still functional and the rim is still usable and detachable. Check your local Home Depot or Lowes for boxes you could use. - Think outside of the.. Check out ebay under arcade parts. Good luck. I am interested to see how this turns out. .. Am now debating doing this. Thanks guys!

Please share your opinions and tell about your region! From Youtube there seems to be a lot of great street racing in US highways, canyons, Mexico. And a lot of similar content also from Russia. I'm from Eastern Europe and a lot of people want to "race" on the streets but there rarely is anything with 400hp on the street, so mostly it's boring for anything serious. Roads are bad so high speed runs are risky, and there are very few nice, curved stretches for smooth, enjoyable cornering. Penalties are not the worst, racing outside of city you lose license for approx 6 months and pay under 1000 eur I have heard Portugal is good, but haven't found any real information about this topic.usps trackingshowbox

Hi Sebastião! You are right. In a several hour earlyer I have been upgraded my TX base. (Was the v51, Now is the v54) Now my TH8A can't communicate with the base. And when I update TH8A's FW to the v27. It is working good. A made some analyse on the PS2 port here is the trick. There is a sended similar 14 Byte on every 250 ms. And one more, I made some analysis TSS Sparco handbrake. There is a similar i2c data. Try send out 02 0C 02 00 FF 80 81 80 81 00 00 00 00 00 02 0C 02 00 8A 80 4D 80 4D 00 00 00 00 00 02 0C 02 00 82 80 4A 80 4A 00 00 00 00 00 02 0C 02 01 17 7F 20 7F 20 00 00 00 00 00 02 0C 02 01 0F 7F 1D 7F 1D 00 00 00 00 00 Br Steve

This is a Drs 13 simulator by DEM racing simulators. I have orderd it in January and I Sent my steering system to them which is a osw system with small mige motor. It will be shipped to me on Monday or Tuesday and should arrive later in the week. They have kept me updated and sent pictures and even video of the pedal plate which moves forward and back with a press of a button to adjust for the different height people because seat is fixed to the aluminium frame. Im very excited to be able to drive it and take it for a spin. Anyone interested if I make a video with the cockpit and show it in detail. If you have any questions you can post them below.

No i'm sorry this is last version but i'm working on buttonbox

Thank you! I made adjustments to it, adding a raceseat and tilted back for more comfort. made the footarea less complicated and reinforced it. For the looks i added Carbon look foil on the tubes. In this photos it was just finished, sorry for the mess ? it now has a nice place at our addict. The T150 is changed for a T300 and the TV screen is replaced with a benq gamemonitor. i’m really happy with this setup, only thing i would change if i ever make one again is making it adjustable. Atm it’s only suited for me. But that adds to the realism of course ?

some other photo. the central hill printed, but not in too. and some decal, not all ...

Some closer shots of the pedal box

Here are some other photos

In this view the monitor is back against the wall, showing the angled panel.

These are the two hardboard templates. The squares on the front one are 100x100mm, so you should be able to replicate the shape from that. The rear one is 800mm long by 210mm high.

Thanks for your interest. I have no plans but the following will enable you to build something very similar. The rig is designed to butt up against a wall with the monitor mounted separately on the wall using a suitable bracket. The wheel base is fixed, but the seat and pedals are adjustable. I used a Corbeau Clubsport seat which comes complete with runners and is very good value. The rig base is very straight forward to build, it’s just a 1600mm x 600mm timber ladder style frame with plywood top. The four side panels were rough cut and then finished off using hardboard templates and a router fitted with a template cutter bit. See attached photo of my hardboard templates for dimensions. The wheel mount shelf, front vertical and angled panels, were secured using pocket holes and Kreg screws. However, you could just screw through the side panels into the edge of the ply but you would have to be careful to avoid the ply from splitting. The pedal box is effectively two pieces of mdf hinged together at the front so the rake of the pedals can be adjusted. The pedals are bolted to the top piece, and the bottom piece is then secured to the Unistrut channel so it can be adjusted backwards/forwards. I used heavy duty Screwfix phosphor bronze washered hinges. I also used some aluminium strip (rebated into the bottom piece of mdf) to connect the bottom piece of mdf to the Unistrut. However, if the bottom piece of mdf was wider (500mm) it could sit on top of the Unistrut and you wouldn’t need the ally strip. At the moment I’m just sliding a block of wood backwards or forwards between the two pieces of mdf to adjust the pedal rake and its surprisingly solid, however, i plan to come up with a better method in time. If you don’t want adjustable rake then just use one piece of mdf attached to the Unistrut channel using cap head screws and channel nuts. The rig is rock solid and very adaptable. I’m now thinking of fitting a Fanatec Podium direct drive wheel. See attached photos and materials list below for more details. I hope this is of help. Materials List: 18mm Plywood - good furniture quality: Qty 1 x 1600 x 600mm - for base top Qty 2 x 800 x 800mm - for front side panels Qty 2 x 800 x 210mm - for rear side panels Qty 1 x 600 x 420mm - for wheel mount shelf Qty 1x 600 x xxmm - for front vertical panel Qty 1 x 600 x 450mm - for front angled panel 18mm mdf: Qty 2 x 40 x 40mm pieces - for pedal box 94 x 32mm planed timber: Qty 2 x 1600mm - for base sides Qty 4 x 536mm - for base cross beams 100 x 50mm, 10swg, box section aluminium: Qty 2 x 500mm lengths - for seat support - you could use timber to save money Unistrut slotted channel 41 x 21mm x 2.5mm thick: Qty 2 x 500mm lengths - for pedal box runners Aluminium strip 100mm wide x 3mm thick: Qty 2 x 400mm lengths Fasteners: Various woodscrews for building base frame and securing plywood top Kreg screws for securing wheel shelf, vertical and angled panels, to front side panels Qty 18 x M10 x 60mm button head cap screws - for securing side panels to base Qty 18 x M10 tee nuts - for securing side panels to base Qty 4 x M10 x 20mm button head cap screws - for securing Unistrut to base Qty 4 x M10 tee nuts - for securing Unistrut to base Qty 4 x M10 button head cap screws - for securing pedal box to Unistrut Qty 4 x M10 Unistrut channel nuts to Unistrut Qty 4 x M10 x 30mm button head cap screws - for securing ally box section to base Qty 4 x M10 tee nuts - for securing ally box section to base Qty 4 suitable nuts & bolts - for securing seat runner to ally box section Other items: Carpet tiles Aluminium carpet edging strip - for rear of base Aluminium u section for caps over side plate joints Led strip lights

That looks exactly like what i need in my space!~ You wouldn't happen to have plans with measurements handy? Been looking for a few days and haven't found a single decent plan.

Hi burgerbait! Of course color matched cable wont work. Long time ago I open up my th8a and drawed a pin assigment. Here you are my attachement. Maybe this helps. If not ask accordingly. Steve

I'll write up the whole thing later with copies of the emails but in short they only allow a certain number of installs/activations. As I rebuild often over the years I've hit that limit several times and each time it takes them days to reply to fix things. Their support is horribly slow as I'm guessing it's one guy - I finally had enough and asked to either have it fixed once and for all or a refund. After about 2 weeks they said they'd rather give me (and my customers) a refund than deal with the support - then over 2 months later still no refund. Was hours away from filing a small claims suit against them over it and only then did they finally do something. I've seen some bad customer service in my day but nothing like them - in short I'd never do business with a company like this. Their attitude was they are the best/only option so I can screw off if I don't like it - which sadly, until this has been true there hasn't been a good alternative. Still I'd rather have nothing than deal with companies like them. As for difference sure but fundamentally no, they both work the same way. They take telemetry data from the game and play low frequency sound to your ButtKicker to make the vibrations. I actually greatly prefer SimShaker as it's far more flexible with a better interface. They are both a bit confusing (with SimVibe needing a degree to understand) but with SimShaker you can easily change the underlying sound files if you want giving you far more control. Sim Commander (the main app around SimVibe) can do more logging and control motion platforms where SimShaker is just for ButtKickers (and something else I can't recall) but for rumble it's perfect - and at half the price with a free demo you can try. To me it's a no brainer - give SimShaker a try since you can do so for free then spend $38 instead of $85 - and you're supporting a single guy vs. a company that so clearly doesn't care about it's customers. Never would I have imagined a company would say "here's your refund if you promise never to buy from us again" - seriously? Request granted! -Ross

Inspired by the build on here I had to build my own to replace my old steel box section frame rig that I had made 20 years ago so much better in light weight pvc pipe i used 50mm OD pvc pipe the pipe I wrapped in stick on carbon fibre look which gives a nice finish and is cheap from the bay. The fittings are painted with plasti dip thanks guys for the idea

Really great info Lorimer I really like using 25 series, but it is one of those were size really matters when it comes to buying cheap accessories because the slot size fits M6 or 1/4" bolts and the T-nuts are 10mm. There is nothing worse than buying 500 cheap T-Nuts from China, only to find your nuts are too big to go into the nice polished slot . Every good extrusion retailer of provides detailed section drawings, so double check you slot widths before ordering... Motedis in France is very popular http://www.motedis.com/shop/ Minsumi in the USA is a good alternative to 8020.com http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/result/?Keyword=Extrusion eBay off cuts http://stores.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Garage-Sale McMaster in the USA is another great supplier. http://www.mcmaster.com/#80-20-compatible-t-slotted-framing/=11g5rsy If you are looking for small section extrusion for accessories, then OpenBuilds.com offers some great extrusion and gussets. http://openbuildspartstore.com/v-slot/ http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_2_4?url=search-alias%3Dindustrial&field-keywords=8020+aluminum+extrusion&sprefix=8020+aluminum+extrusion%2Cindustrial%2C159 Extrusion Profile Section is important The other thing about size matters, is the section of extrusion often it comes in light weight VS standard weight, so what looks like a really good deal sometimes can be a very thin wall section extrusion. This does not need to be a bad thing, but you need to consider where it is being used and how much stress it's under. In sim rigs we don't really put much stress on monitor arms, shifters mount, wheel mounts, but seat mounting frames often take the most stress. If you sim rig is suspended on casters then profile size is very important!

living the dream dude... go on, post a pic