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Use your multimeter. I do not know your cable colors. Do not connect 6-7, there 3.3V? Steve

Hi fastwills. I'm located in New Hampshire in the United States. If you're using a Fanatec podium wheel base you can use this wheel, however, you'll need to purchase a podium hub adapter: https://fanatec.com/us-en/steering-wheels/podium-hub I'm not aware of any way to use it with the CLS line of wheel bases. Thank you very much for your interest, and please let me know if you have any additional questions.

Hello. Where are you located and can this be used with Fanatec wheelbase? Thanks

know how you feel, when I've seen kit that's Stateside

I managed to snap the shaft off the funkyswitch on my Fanatec Universal Hub. I've never really liked that switch anyway - I think the Xbox logo looks out of place and the joystick function is hard to use with gloves on - so I thought I'd try replacing it with a simple left/right/push encoder from Leo Bodnar's site. Anyway, I've rewired it how I assume it should work but it gives no output at all. Can any electronics experts give me any pointers here? This is the wiring layout from the original funkyswitch - A, B, C, D are the joystick directions, so I haven't wired those. I don't know what the significance of the 11ø1 terminal is... This is the new encoder I got to replace it: One the new switch I have Input 1 wired to Encoder A, Input 2 to Encoder B and Input 3 to Push. Where I am stuck is what configuration to use for the ground terminals. I have tried wiring them both to ground, but there's no output at all, not even from the left/right encoder. I do have a brand new Alps replacement for the funkyswitch itself, so I could always just put that back in there and restore it to how it was, but I'd rather not - the new encoder has a much nicer, more solid feel. Anyone got any tips?

Hey everyone, I haven't logged on here in a while, but wanted to update this thread in the event it catches someone's attention. Unfortunately, I may be forced to sell my rig in the next few months. Figured I'd post it here first, as this was the community that really inspired me to build this in the first place. Hopefully I can keep it, but if anyone is in the Southern California area, or willing to rent a truck, feel free to reach out if you are interested. Here is a rundown of most of the setup: Motion Chassis SimXperience Stage IV 3DOF w/ Rear Traction Loss SimXperience Diamond-plated Floorboard Corbeau FX1 Racing Seat w/ 2 Buttkicker Gamer 2 and remotes Real racing harness w/ quick release Custom Triple Projector Setup 3 X Vivitek Qumi Q2 pocket projectors Custom 80/20 bracket with 6 Fotomate macro adjusters Custom hard surface triple projection screen wrapped in black felt 8” Touch Screen Wheel Accuforce v.1 on Accuforce height bracket Q1R quick release Momo Mod30 SSRG Custom wheel on OMP Alu 310 GT Brakes HPP 2 Pedal PRX-SE with extra springs and accessories Accessories Derek Spears Sequential Shifter Derek Spears Track Boss Button Controller Logitech Z-5500 THX 5.1 surround speakers and subwoofer Logitech G930 7.1 Wireless Gaming Headset XPand 3D Gaming Glasses Extra toolkit of spare parts (knitter switches, SLI Pros, Display Adapters, Ignition Switches, etc)

I've been asked by a few members to document what I did to repair my Thrustmaster TX when the power supply burned out. Reading through the threads here, it seems like this is a common issue with the TX so I hope this helps someone. First thing to do is source a power supply. There are several candidates that can be bought cheaply on eBay but for this repair I used an old Dell laptop power supply. Ideally your power supply should a ) have the correct input mains plug and voltage rating and b ) have an output of about 5 Amps at 24 volts DC. You can go as low as 19 volts or as high as 26 volts for the output but the ideal voltage is 24 volts. I decided to use a laptop supply because they have internal circuit overload protection. I also wanted to protect the internals with an inline fuse like this one http://tinyurl.com/occze4t but I only had an auto inline blade type fuse so I used that for this build. Here's the power supply I sourced: USA AC 110v input / DC 19.5v 6.7 Amps output Locate the plug on the output end ...and cut it off. Make sure you leave enough room to be able to strip back the wires. Unsheath the wires and cut about 2mm of insulation off the end of each one to expose the wire inside. Now we have to make sure we know which is positive (+ve) and which is negative (-ve). DO NOT ASSUME that the black wire is always the -ve or the red is always the +ve. ALWAYS meter them to be sure. Set your multimeter to a range higher than the voltage you will be reading. In this case, I'm setting mine to the 20 volt DC range as I know my output is going to be less than 20 volts. Making sure that the two wires you just cut are not touching, plug in the power supply to the mains. Measure the voltage across the wires... ...then reverse the probes and measure again. Notice that the measured voltage is negative when the black probe is on the white wire and positive when the black probe is on the black wire. This means that the black wire is the -ve supply and the whte wire is the +ve. Unplug your power supply from the mains.

Would you be interested in selling the dd1 by itself?

Would you be willing to sell the drivehub on it's own? If so, is $50 be your asking price? I'm in Atlanta, so we would need to talk about shipping as well.

If anyone in Canada, especially the East/Maritimes (I'm in New Brunswick), has a set or any components for PS4+PC they'd sell for cheap, please reach out! Definitely would want something with a clutch but if the price is right 2-pedals is good too. Not very interested in a stand or cockpit due to space restrictons.

Logitech G27 wheel, pedals, and shifter all in great condition. Also have a Logitech G29 wheel and pedals, but the BRAKE PEDAL CAME BROKEN. I am willing to sell things separately. Can do local pickup in or around 77008 area or shipping, maybe split cost depending on price. Asking $200 obo for G27 Set up Asking $110 obo for G29 Set up If you want something sold separately,

can't afford to get one but this is sick!

I have a nextion display that I want to attach to my wheel. There is an external USB port at the botom of the hub but its power only and not data. When I have had the hub appart I seem to remember there were some spare ports and was wondering if one of them was a USB with data?

Power Supply upgrade, just like yours :)

Upgrade my wheelbase and time for this wheel to go to a new home, Asking a rehoming fee of 150$ includes the following! 1. Wheelbase and rim 2. H pattern shifter 3. Sequential shifter Shipped in the United States the wheel is in good condition and has been used. there is no slip in the wheel, fan works, and all buttons work on the wheel, all cords are in good condition. I do have the CSR Elite pedals as well, looking to upgrade Would be willing to trade for sim gear!!!!

Please share your opinions and tell about your region! From Youtube there seems to be a lot of great street racing in US highways, canyons, Mexico. And a lot of similar content also from Russia. I'm from Eastern Europe and a lot of people want to "race" on the streets but there rarely is anything with 400hp on the street, so mostly it's boring for anything serious. Roads are bad so high speed runs are risky, and there are very few nice, curved stretches for smooth, enjoyable cornering. Penalties are not the worst, racing outside of city you lose license for approx 6 months and pay under 1000 eur I have heard Portugal is good, but haven't found any real information about this topic.usps trackingshowbox

After easily the most horrendous customer support experience I've had in my 25 years in IT I'm looking for an alternative to SimVibe. I nearly had to file suit in small claims court to get Simxperience to reply to me and finally refund me - so I'll never do business with them again (and STRONGLY suggest no one else do either - happy to share the story if asked). As such I'm looking for an alternative to run my ButtKicker. Just looking for simple engine, road surface, wind, effects as I have a NLR V2 motion platform that handles all the big effects. I'm currently just running the bass channel to the ButtKicker and while that's better than nothing I'd rather have something a little better. I've played a bit with X-Sim but it seems sorta dead and, if it can be believed has a worse interface than Sim Commander. So any suggestions?? Thanks! -Ross

Hi Sebastião! You are right. In a several hour earlyer I have been upgraded my TX base. (Was the v51, Now is the v54) Now my TH8A can't communicate with the base. And when I update TH8A's FW to the v27. It is working good. A made some analyse on the PS2 port here is the trick. There is a sended similar 14 Byte on every 250 ms. And one more, I made some analysis TSS Sparco handbrake. There is a similar i2c data. Try send out 02 0C 02 00 FF 80 81 80 81 00 00 00 00 00 02 0C 02 00 8A 80 4D 80 4D 00 00 00 00 00 02 0C 02 00 82 80 4A 80 4A 00 00 00 00 00 02 0C 02 01 17 7F 20 7F 20 00 00 00 00 00 02 0C 02 01 0F 7F 1D 7F 1D 00 00 00 00 00 Br Steve

This is a Drs 13 simulator by DEM racing simulators. I have orderd it in January and I Sent my steering system to them which is a osw system with small mige motor. It will be shipped to me on Monday or Tuesday and should arrive later in the week. They have kept me updated and sent pictures and even video of the pedal plate which moves forward and back with a press of a button to adjust for the different height people because seat is fixed to the aluminium frame. Im very excited to be able to drive it and take it for a spin. Anyone interested if I make a video with the cockpit and show it in detail. If you have any questions you can post them below.

Hi burgerbait! Of course color matched cable wont work. Long time ago I open up my th8a and drawed a pin assigment. Here you are my attachement. Maybe this helps. If not ask accordingly. Steve

I'll write up the whole thing later with copies of the emails but in short they only allow a certain number of installs/activations. As I rebuild often over the years I've hit that limit several times and each time it takes them days to reply to fix things. Their support is horribly slow as I'm guessing it's one guy - I finally had enough and asked to either have it fixed once and for all or a refund. After about 2 weeks they said they'd rather give me (and my customers) a refund than deal with the support - then over 2 months later still no refund. Was hours away from filing a small claims suit against them over it and only then did they finally do something. I've seen some bad customer service in my day but nothing like them - in short I'd never do business with a company like this. Their attitude was they are the best/only option so I can screw off if I don't like it - which sadly, until this has been true there hasn't been a good alternative. Still I'd rather have nothing than deal with companies like them. As for difference sure but fundamentally no, they both work the same way. They take telemetry data from the game and play low frequency sound to your ButtKicker to make the vibrations. I actually greatly prefer SimShaker as it's far more flexible with a better interface. They are both a bit confusing (with SimVibe needing a degree to understand) but with SimShaker you can easily change the underlying sound files if you want giving you far more control. Sim Commander (the main app around SimVibe) can do more logging and control motion platforms where SimShaker is just for ButtKickers (and something else I can't recall) but for rumble it's perfect - and at half the price with a free demo you can try. To me it's a no brainer - give SimShaker a try since you can do so for free then spend $38 instead of $85 - and you're supporting a single guy vs. a company that so clearly doesn't care about it's customers. Never would I have imagined a company would say "here's your refund if you promise never to buy from us again" - seriously? Request granted! -Ross

Inspired by the build on here I had to build my own to replace my old steel box section frame rig that I had made 20 years ago so much better in light weight pvc pipe i used 50mm OD pvc pipe the pipe I wrapped in stick on carbon fibre look which gives a nice finish and is cheap from the bay. The fittings are painted with plasti dip thanks guys for the idea

Changed knobs and added translucent perspex to display very happy with complete modification. Thanks to Pascalh for the guid and advice

living the dream dude... go on, post a pic