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OSW Wheel & Fanatec Rim Integration: Part II, integrating non-Fanatec Rims
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6 posts in this topic

Part 1 of this guide showed how to integrate a Fanatec Quick Release and Wiring harness to gain plug-n-play capability for Fanatec Rims and your OSW Wheel.  Please review Part 1 at this link for more details.  

In Part 2, I'll show you how to add non-Fanatec rims and wire a button box or paddle shifters through the same quick release and wiring harness, so that you can use both Fanatec and non-Fanatec rims with the same plug-n-play functionality.

Quick summary:  The fanatec quick release and wiring harness has 13 pins of electrical connection.  We used 8 of them for the Fanatec conversion.  Here, I show how to use the remaining open pins to connect non-Fanatec rims including either a non-Fanatec USB button box or paddle shifters. 

Here's the end result:

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To begin, you'll want a rugged coiled cable with 8 conductors.  The Bodnar board from part 1 required 4 conductors (for the USB connection) in your coiled cable.  You'll want an additional 4 conductors for either a 2nd USB connection (for your wheel-based button box) or to wire paddle shifters directly.  I ordered this 8-conductor microphone cable from eBay.  Basically, any coiled and shielded microphone cable should work.

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For my application, I'm going to wire paddle shifters directly from the wheel into one of my button boxes.  You also have the option of wiring a second USB port, instead, if you would rather use a USB-based button box on your non-Fanatec rims.  You have to make this choice yourself, you can't do both.  Many button boxes have paddle shifters included.  My thought was this: if I ever add a rim with a USB button box, I have the option of just wiring the USB directly, bypassing the through-hub connection.  

For my use, I'd rather wire in paddle shifters to my non-Fanatec rims.  This has another bonus: you can splice the paddle shifters in parallel with a sequential shifter.  Now, both the paddle shifters and sequential shifter will work at the same time, without the need to rebind the controls within your sim software.  I like this idea, as I'm always forgetting to rebind my controls when I switch rims or wheels.

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So, here we go.  I wired the black, white, red, and green conductors in this cable to my USB plug, to attach to the Bodnar board.  I attached the shield cable to a short wire and grounded this to a screw on the OSW adapter.  Finally, I attached the remaining 3 conductors (yellow, brown, and orange in the photo) to pins 10, 11, and 12 from the Fanatec wiring harness.  Look closely at this picture, you'll see I've cut the wires from pins 10, 11, and 12 which were unused on the Fanatec harness, and spliced them into the 8-conductor microphone cable.

If you're going the other route, wiring in a second USB connection, you'd use these same three wires (pins 10,11, and 12) and add pin 1 from the Fanatec harness, which is also unused.  

I connected a USB connector and 3-wire extension to the other end of the cable (using the standard black/white/green/red USB wires), and then spliced the 3-wire paddle shifter extension in parallel with my sequential shifter switches.  This allows shifting from either the sequential DSD shifter or the paddle shifters at the same time, no need to change controller bindings, both are operating simultaneously.

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I wrapped up the Bodnar board in electrical tape for padding and protection, and reassembled the 35mm extension to the wheel-side QR on the OSW.  At this point, I tested everything out to make sure my connections were good.  I checked that my Fanatec Rim was still working, and it was.

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Now for rewiring the rim-side plug to attach the paddle shifters.  I had several spares, I got a plug with each spare Fanatec Quick release I had obtained.  A word about these spare Fanatec quick releases: they're getting harder to find.  For a while, as folks converted Fanatec rims to OSW use, they installed a non-Fanatec QR and had the Fanatec QR available as a spare.  They could be found lots of places, for cheap.  No longer.  With the rise in Fanatec/OSW integrations, the Fanatec QRs are in demand.  You can stil buy the QR direct from Fanatec for around $45.  Check with them, first, if you're looking for a QR for this project.  I managed to find 4 spare QRs, each had a cable harness included.

Here's the bare cable:

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That's a lot of glue in that plug!  Let's tear it open to see what we find.  Several pics here, to help guide you.

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Ok, did you get all that? First, I removed the bolt and outer housing. Then, I cut the shrink tubing with a hobby knife, and pried out all the glue.  You'll find the pins are loose!  A very nice design.  I cleaned everything up, reassembled the plug, and this is what I was left with.  Notice the 5, unused pins (no solder) from the original Fanatec harness.  You can use these to connect additional switches, or anything else you might want to wire up between your rim and OSW.

 

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Pins 10,11, and 12 are at the 11 o'clock, noon, and 1pm positions on the plug, viewed from the back, if the screw is in the "north" position.  This is easier to show in a picture than described in words.  Here's were I soldered my 3-conductor cable for the paddle shifters.  Note, one conductor is a common ground, and the other 2 are the left- and right-paddle shift switches.  Which is which?  That depends on how you wired the cable, earlier, and how you spliced it into your sequential shifter (or button box).  You'll have to figure out that part on your own.

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The final bit is the paddle shifters themselves.  This is a key piece of Sim equipment, and I didn't want to skimp here.  Magnetic-shifters give a great feel, and are the same style used in real race cars.  Several manufacturers can provide magnetic paddle shifters, and they aren't cheap.  

A relatively new manufacturer is Karl Eisenhauer.  He machines a gorgeous magnetic paddle shifter entirely himself, based on the now-discontinued PDW design.  These are selling on eBay, and they're a bargain for what they offer.  I can whole-heartily endorse these shifters, they are simply magnificent.  They mounted straight onto my Momo 350mm Race wheel, as you can see below. 

Here's a link to Karl's ebay auction, and here's a direct link to purchase from him and save a bit of money, as Karl isn't paying eBay fees with a direct sale.   You can reach Karl at karleisenhauer@aol.com if you prefer.

I used a bit of braided sleeving to protect the cables, and wired this all up in the small space under the emblem on my Momo wheel.

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I cut slots in my 52/70mm adapter (to mount the Fanatec QR onto the 70mm rim).  BTW, this adpater is wonderful and available for cheap off eBay.  Here's the link.

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Finally, it's all done!  Works great, looks great, I don't have to change controller bindings between these paddle shifters and my sequential shifter, and I have plug and play with both Fanatec and non-Fanatec rims on my OSW!  Hope this helps, and good luck.

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Edited by Diablo2112

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14 hours ago, The Gadge said:

Hey Diablo

Any ideas where I may find the female side of the multi pin socket?????

Cheers Bro

 

The Gadge

 

That's a tough one.  Easiest way is to order the replacement part from Fanatec.  You need to have purchased the wheel and registered it to your account in order to do this.  Perhaps find a friend that has done this?  Another way is to buy a busted wheel (any generation will do, including v1) and salvage the part from there.  I've seen exactly ONE cable assembly come up for sale outside of the channels, above.  Good luck.

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hello Diablo i'm amazed with your work that was great i'm lokking to convert  Akira f1 gp wheel to fanatec wheel base can you please tell me how to convert non-fanatec wheels

 

1. in the picture below Mod 5_zpswttwppa8  what is that wire and where should i connect it 

2. in the picture below Mod 8_zpsxyyvbguv should i cut it white wiring which it marked in red color 

3. in the picture below Mod 15_zpsi7depioa where should i connect the black wire can you please upload a picture where you have connect it please let me know thank you so much 

 

Mod 8_zpsxyyvbguv.jpg

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Mod 5_zpswttwppa8 (1).jpg

Mod 15_zpsi7depioa.jpg

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