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Found 80 results

  1. Hi there, so I got the bug for designing stuff for sim racing, I previously made a formula style rim. This rim was great apart from one thing, the paddles! They had no feeling so I started looking for some other solutions but couldn't find anything I wanted or if I could they were too expensive so I decided to design my own. My background, I've been sim racing for around 5 years before that I did some karting and now my day job is working for a Porsche Specialist on the race cars that race in the carrera cup GB championship. i wanted the paddle to feel as much like the cup car shifter mechanism as I could so I found out the switches I needed to use and started designing. this is what I came up with, they are 3D printed in carbon infilled plastic (around 20% carbon) this makes them very strong with negligible flex. As of yet they haven't been fitted to a steering wheel but will be done next month as I'm busy for a couple of weeks. I'll update if anyone's interested.
  2. hi all, wanted to ask around if anyone has experience with the Simetek Cockpit K2 cockpit/ rig, mounting and using DirectDrive wheels (OSW, DIY, AF or LB) on it. meaning experience with directdrive on this cockpit K2, does it wobble/ move/ sway/ flex? rigid or not rigid enough? thank you all.
  3. I'm reserving this top part to pin my latest build which will be an 80/20 extrusion chassis running a 3DoF seat mover with rear traction loss. My detailed build will be documented and most posted on xsim which links below in my signature. Here is the prototype sketch of the rig itself. The rig will not have triples monitors as it is being built for VR. ************************************************************************************** ************************************************************************************** I've finally decided to throw in the towel on the console racing era and move over to PC. This thread will describe my current and new DIY wooden racing chassis. I'll document what I can and I'm happy to field any questions and welcome any comments you may have on my progress and finished project. Thanks go out to Darin and Shaun for this community and to everyone here that inspired me in different areas of this project. I'll keep this post updated with any new additions and pictures while the posts below will detail the build. Happy racing! PC specs i5 3750k - @4.0GHz 16 GB RAM, 256GB SSD 7970 Sennheiser PC 363D surround headset Benq XL2720T monitor 120Hz Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H Mobo Input Devices Fanatec GT2 Wheel and Clubsport base Fanatec v2 pedals Fanatec SQ Shifter Tactile Components 4 TST209 Clark transducers 2 Dayton APA150 150W amplifiers 5 Buttkicker kinetic isolators Simvibe software Monitor mount arms http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=59988&cat=3,43597,43601,60167,59988 Update January, 2014 SQ shifter mounted Update January, 2014 Monitor hoods added Update June, 2014 Monitor hood skirts added Update October, 2014 Mugen MBX7 Eco - shock and spring upgrade Update June 2016 Took down two monitors and now run with CV1 added a fan - manual for now
  4. I am looking for any ideas on making a diy tv stand. It has to be height adjustable and sit over my steering wheel. Before I moved into my new place, i had a 42" tv mounted on a adjustable arm. With the cockpit placed pedals against the wall, I could move the tv about 25" from my face, just ahead of the t500rs which gave me pretty good experience with realistic fov, Now I am wanting a semi-temporary (cheap) solution in my new place without drilling any holes in my walls before i upgrade to VR. I was thinking of something out of pvc? are there any plans out for a diy tv stand or another cheap solution. My cockpit is similar in style and dimensions as the GT Omega (metal frame, seat pedals and steering wheel connected to that frame)
  5. So... I have got into sim racing over the past year and have slowly been acquiring gear. I was given a pre-cut RS1 for christmas and finally got around to assembling it yesterday. My question is where should I look to purchase a seat? I stumbled upon this guy here - http://www.ebay.com/itm/TYPE-R-FULLY-RECLINABLE-PVC-LEATHER-RACING-SEAT-MOUNTING-SLIDER-DRIVER-LEFT-SIDE-/201359198962?hash=item2ee1f18af2:g:qWAAAOSwU~FWDLaD&vxp=mtr Is that all I need to add it to my rig, or is their other mounting equipment i will need?
  6. ok so i have built a fully hydraulic handbrake fully works hanbrake as i got it all the adapters i used handbrake with adapter handbrake with adapters and pressure sensor handbrake with adapters pressure sensor and reservoir fully assembled and working the pressure sensor connects to leo bodnar BU0836A youtube video of it working i have designed a longer handbrake handle and im having it laser cut should be here next week PARTS LIST hydraulic handrake http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HYDRAULIC-HANDBRAKE-RACE-RALLY-AUTOGRASS-DRIFT-200SX-FORD-ST-EVO-FIESTA-GTI-GOLF-/220974679931?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item33731e077b reservoir http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-Hydraulic-Drift-E-Brake-Oil-Tank-for-Hand-Brake-Oil-Fluid-Reservoir-/231204102403?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item35d4d6a103 1000PSI sam sensor http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-transducer-sender-1000-psi-for-oil-fuel-air-/250957430320?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a6e3a7e30 3 way female m10x1mm thread http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400370411255?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 2 X m10x1mm to m10x1mm male adapter (but one adapter had one male side threaded to 3/8 unf to fit handbrake) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120786622815?var=420046548431&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 1 X bleed nipple m10x1mm http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-x-1-Steel-Brake-Bleed-Screw-Nipple-/131042379228?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item1e82bc05dc 1 X m10x1mm to m10x1mm female adapter http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120786622815?var=420046548430&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 and leo bodnars BU0836A 12 bit joystick board (but i used this for button box then attached handbrake to it via plug in button box) http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66&products_id=204 any question please ask ill do my best to help anyone make one it feels awesome thanks for looking
  7. Current state of the build: Main build log starts ... Since Assetto Corsa came out, I've got the itch to build an updated version of my existing rig and I've now assembled all the parts necessary to start. My g25 has been replaced by Fanatec ClubSport Wheel base, both rims, the CSP v2s and the CSS Seq shifter. The shifter broke on my g25 unfortunately so I considerd that an excuse to upgrade. I've acquired a new seat and a new ulrawide monitor also. My previous rig looked like this: It's had a fair few modifications since then though with a monitor positioned behind the wheel and a shfter mount attached to the seat base. New Seat: Mini LFEs for Simvibe: Buttkicker amp: The amp and Mini LFEs were actually bought for me by a colleague who recently left my team. I asked him to reconsider but he insisted on me keeping them. So, this first job for the new build was to attach the Mini LFE's to the seat. In R-Pod Mk1, I had tested them by bolting them to the inside of the MDF seat base. I was singularly unimpressed so I thought long and hard about how to approach it for the new build. The seat can be mounted from the side or underneath. This allowed me to apprach the issue more directly. I bought a plate of 4mm aluminium, drilled some holes in it, Attached the Mini LFE's and bolted it to the bottom of the seat. The resulting experience is what I was hoping for with the vibreations being channeled through the whole frame: Aluminium plate: Holes drilled: Test mounting: Plate covered with blackboard vinyl and Buttkickers attached: Side mounts and seat rails bolted on: Hope to have more updates on the build next weekend.
  8. I own a th8a shifter but it drive me crazy every time I need to change the plate from H to sequential, so I decided to make my own seq shifter. I've converted a cheap rally handbrake from ebay to a sequential shifter by removing the master cylinder. It's console compatible because the shifter is wired to paddle wires left in the T300 base. Here some pictures of my mod. I really like the feeling and the clicking noise of gear change.
  9. hi mats i did it again xD want to show you my little buttonbox i tinkered over the last week... want so a long time a small and simple button box for dirt rally and ats that i started to search a small curicit for a button box and found a cheap chinese one on ebay. its the same like in the 15 pound box here in the forum... and it works fine with it... a dsd or a bodnar would be much to big for such a small box! could connect one button more on the board. i think about to mount button for a engine brake somewhere on the pedals like it was on old trucks like 2000s MAN for ats... the case is a simple 3d print with cover. the cover is 125cm³ and needs 15 hours to print o.O wtf! but now enoght of this. here the pics the small curicit i hate cable cluttern! my new dirt rally rim... its very nice 330mm 79mm dished rim where not breaks the bank. sorry for the dusty rig. my girl builds a cat tree on the banch next to the rig -.- very simple to mount^^
  10. Hello, thank you for checking out my "How to" on building my simrig! I have attached zip files for you to download that have all the information needed for every single piece to build the rig, along with plans, sections, and elevations with some dimensions for reference. I will try to explain how I chose to go about assembling it below. - Attachments are at the bottom of this post, after the pictures. **** I strongly encourage you to take time and familiarize yourself with all of the information given before you begin construction. **** A few pieces of the build will require you to take some of your own dimensions to have it work best with all of your equipment. Refer to the "Piece Tickets.pdf". - For example, you will need to take specific dimensions of the monitor you decide to use. These will be very important in determining where the cutouts will be located for the monitor and front speakers, and how large they will need to be. **** If you have any questions about anything or see that I have left out something needed to build the rig, please send me a message or reply to this topic and I will do my best to explain anything you need. I would suggest that you reply to this topic, that way if anyone else has the same question they can get an answer just by following the posts. If you decide to build my rig, I would greatly appreciate it if you could add a picture of your finished build to this topic. I am very interested to see how you will make it your own, and if you decide to make any modifications to it. Feel free to change anything you would like about the build, I have only given information for how to build my rig exactly. - If you would like to play computer games on it, I currently do not have it designed with that in mind. If you wanted to though, a simple solution would be to put your computer inside the large panel that you use to access the back of the monitor & front speakers, Depending on how large the monitor is you use, it should be able to fit inside well. I would suggest that your computer has a good cooling system in it though, because it could get quite warm being enclosed in a small area. Key things to pay attention to: 1. All of my dimensions given are based on using 5/8" thick wood. If you use any thickness other than 5/8", many dimensions will be slightly off which will cause problems with pieces lining up correctly. If you use a different thickness of wood, you will need to add/subtract the difference it makes in all pieces that would be affected. 2. I used a 32" LG monitor. I would assume you could go up to a 36", but I have not verified that, and it would still depend on the overall dimensions of the monitor, and front speakers. You will need to reference dimensions given and make sure the monitor and speakers you choose will fit inside the designated areas for them. 3. Plan out ahead of time how you plan to finish the rig off. Whether you decide to add material, paint it, stain it, etc. You should figure that out before assembling the pieces so you know how hard it will be to finish off once fully built, or how much prep work you will need to do before assembling. 4. The plans I have designed were for my own personal preference, using a Fanatec CSR Elite wheel, Fanatec CSR Elite Pedals, and Fanatec CSR Shifter Set. Please review the dimensions given and figure out if they will work well with your equipment of choice, and personal preferences. Certain dimensions were not provided (such as location of the seat, etc.) because you should determine that for where you would like it yourself. 5. I have not provided information on how to attach all of the pieces together, I used screws. - First I drilled a pilot hole, then recessed it some so when I drilled in the screw, it would not stick out from the wood. I also did not use any backup support to drill into, I just lined the pieces up and drilled directly into the ends. If you do this as well, make sure you are very careful when drilling your pilot holes and make sure you are going through the wood as close as possible to the center of the 5/8" thickness. If you are off by too much, the screw will end up coming through the side of a piece, or cause the wood to split and not hold the screw in place. If you choose to add extra wood backing so you have a wider area to drill into, you should be able to cut small pieces from the left over 4' x 8' sheets of wood. *** Plan out what you will do before starting construction. 6. IMPORTANT: I did not build this rig with plans for it to be easily taken apart or transported. When fully built it is too large to fit through typical doorways. Make sure that where you build it is where you are going to plan on keeping it, because you will not be able to get it out of its location unless it is disassembled. 7. You will probably want to run all the wiring for the speakers before you close in certain areas of the rig. Once it is fully assembled, it will be difficult to run certain wiring, such as the rear left surround speaker. I also would encourage you to make sure you use something to hold the wiring in place in certain areas, so if you disconnect a wire it can't fall down through a hole pass through, and be near impossible to get back out. 8. (I will add more to the list as I think of them, or are brought to my attention) I hope I have given enough information for you to complete the build as easily as possible. Some of my ticketing for the pieces and layout may be confusing though. I tried to fit everything including the dimensions onto the size of a typical sheet of paper so you can print them out and follow along without needing a computer by your side the entire time you are laying out and cutting the pieces. - Please print out all of the tickets, and use a highlighter to check off dimensions and pieces as you know they have been drawn and then cut. Thank you very much for your interest in my rig, and building it for yourself. I became inspired to build/design this rig from seeing other peoples amazing creations on this site, and I hope that I have been able to inspire you in some way to build your own rig. It really is rewarding and almost as fun as actually racing in it once you're done the build....almost. Ha. Happy Racing!!! Material required for build: (8) ---- Sheets of 8' x 4' x 5/8" wood. (8) ---- Hinges for door panels. (5) ---- Knobs/Door pulls for door panels. (1,000,000...jk) ---- Screws. Recommended tools: - Circular Saw - Jigsaw - Drill - Sander - Measuring Tape - Level - Router (for recessing holes on shifter mount) ****Please download all attachments. They are all required in order to have all information needed to cut the pieces, and build the rig. Good luck! STEP 1: BASE - P-14, (2) P-15 Hold P-15 pieces 5/8" in from the edges of piece P-14 STEP 2: BASE - (3) P-16 STEP 3: LEFT SIDE (BOTTOM) - P-1, P-2, P-3, P-4, P-5, P-6, (1) P-7, (1) P-8, (1) P-9 STEP 4: RIGHT SIDE (BOTTOM) - (1) P-7. (1) P-8, (1) P-9, P-10, P-11, P-12, P-13 I placed the amp for my transducer on piece P-10. If you choose to use an amp with transducer, this is where I would recommend you also placing the amp as it is easy to reach with your right hand. Dimensions and cutouts will need to be taken for your personal placement. You will also need to have a cutout somewhere near the rear of piece P-10 for the speaker wire to run though, to the transducer located under your seat. STEP 5: ATTACH SIDES TO BOTTOM Attach the assembled sides from Steps 3 and 4, to the bottom of the rig from Step 1 STEP 6: MONITOR STAND - P-17, P-18, (2) P-19 Pieces P-18 and (2) P-19 can be modified depending on how you choose to support your monitor. If you extend them to the back of piece P-17, and widen piece P-18, you can probably place a computer on it as well as the monitor. STEP 7: MONITOR PANEL - P-20, (2) P-21, (2) P-22 Attach pieces (2) P-21 & (2) P-22 to piece P-20 before installing piece P-20. All cutouts on P-20 will need to be determined by you based on monitor size & speaker choice. Piece sizes for (2) P-21 & (2) P-22 will be determined by monitor cutout on P-20. STEP 8: FRONT SPEAKER STANDS & SIDE SUPPORTS - (4) P-42, (2) P-43, (2) P-41 Dimensions will need to be taken. Heights and widths depend on your monitor and speaker choice, and cutout locations on piece P-20. Piece P-41 is added to help pieces P-32 & P-33 together. STEP 9: SIDES (TOP)- P-32, P-33 Piece P-32 goes above piece P-1 from Step 3. Piece P-33 goes above piece P-13 from Step 4. STEP 10: CEILING, CENTER CHANNEL & LIGHT OPENING - P-23, (2) P-24, (2) P-25, P-26, P-27, (2) P-28 Attach all pieces needed to piece P-23 before installing P-23. Verify ahead of time that your center channel speaker will fit on the base designed to hold it. STEP 11: DIVIDERS - (2) P-29, P-30, P-31 STEP 12: BACK PANEL W DOORS - P-37, (2) P-38 Hinges required to attach pieces P-38. STEP 13: FRONT PANEL W DOORS - P-34, P-35, P-36 Hinges required to attach pieces P-35 & P-36. The opening at the bottom left of piece P-34 is where I have the surge protector located. All electronics should be plugged into it, then you can run just the one power cord from the surge protector out to a wall outlet. STEP 14: ROOF W DOOR - P-39, P-40 Hinges required to attach piece P-40. STEP 15: REVERSE MOUNT PEDAL STAND - (2) P-44, P-45, P-46, P-47 Stand is optional STEP 16: BASE FOR SEAT - (2) P-54, (2) P-55 Location and height should be determined by you. (I'm missing the pictures, I will update when I find them.) STEP 17: MOUNT FOR SHIFTERS - (2) P-48, P-49, P-50, P-51, P-52, P-53 Shifter Mount is optional. Cutting the metal rods that were included with your Fanatec CSR Shifter Set will be required. The length of the metal rods, and depth/specific location of the recessed holes in the wood will need to be determined by you. If you choose to use a different shifter other than the Fanatec CSR Shifter Set, this mount will not work. FINISHED! SIMRIG "EXPLODED" VIEW (I'm missing the picture, I'll update when I find it) ****Please download all attachments. They are all required in order to have all information needed to cut the pieces, and build the rig. Good luck! The most important attachments are the "Layout Tickets" & "Piece Tickets" MBoyerRig-2dPlans.zip Piece Tickets.pdf Layout Tickets.pdf MBoyerRig-PieceMarkPictures.zip
  11. Hey everyone, Figured I'd share my latest button plate project that I'm currently working on for my T300 base. I based the design off the steering wheel used in the Bentley GT3 racecar using a top mounted button plate rather than having the plate behind the wheel. I previously made a behind wheel mounted button plate a while back and wanted to go for a different design. After a few hours of drafting on AutoCAD I came up with a plate design and button placement I was satisfied with. I cut a prototype plate from some foam board I had lying around to see how it looked with the buttons. Pretty good if I do say so my self For this project I am using the TM compatible circuit by Moogen which can be found here: The circuit allows for both console and PC compatibly while maintaining the TM quick-release connection and includes inputs for 13 buttons, 4 d-pad inputs and 2 paddle shifters. I was amazed at how small and compact the circuit board is, making it perfect for button plate projects. I used push buttons for all 13 inputs and 2 toggle switches for the d-pad with the left switch being UP and DOWN and the right switch being LEFT and RIGHT directions. The wheel I am using is a 320mm NRG suede. To keep the plate raised off the steering wheel I'm using 1/2" plastic spacers which gives tons of space beneath the plate for the circuit board and all the wiring. Because of the placement of the DIN connector on the circuit I'll have to leave 1 screw out when bolting the wheel to the DSD adapter. For the paddles I tried mounting them to a backing plate using hinges and springs. With the push button I'm using and the tension of the spring the paddles have a nice firm and tactile feel comparable to my 599XX rim even using the foam board prototype. I wired up all the buttons and switches and checked each input using the TM profiler to make sure it was working before using shrink tubing to tidy everything up. The next step is to cut and drill the button plate, paddle shifters and the shifter mounting plate. I plan on using 4mm polycarbonate sheet for the plate and paddles and covering it with carbon fibre vinyl wrap. Once this is done and the DSD adapter arrives everything will be ready to be assembled! I'll post an update when the project is finished. - Cody
  12. A few weeks ago my son switched from his old G25 wheel/shifter combo to a brand new Thrustmaster TX + F1 addon wheel. In the process he lost the G25 shifter that he used mainly for Nascar and MX5 racing. To get a working shifter, there were several choices: Buying a new shifter: obvious but expensive Use the G25 shifter connected to the wheel without using the wheel: inelegant! Buying a Leo Bodnar interface (http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72&products_id=188): cheap and easy Build our own interface: even cheaper and more versatile We chose the latter option to have the best possible control on the gear shifting logic: the stock G25 shifting logic is somewhat buggy, leading to quite frequent mis-shifts. Having full control of the software also allows adding some new functions: a handbrake mode seems the most obvious as the G25 shifter has all the necessary hardware. In the following posts I will explain all the steps required to build a G25 shifter to USB interface, based on a Teensy 2.0 board. This writeup is split into 5 chapters, each chapter being one post: Chapter 1: Hardware and tools required Chapter 2: Wiring and canning Chapter 3: Software Chapter 4: Tests and configuration Chapter 5: Conclusion
  13. Hey everyone, A while back I decided to make a custom button plate for my T300rs. The original plan was to use the circuit out of a 458 italia TX rim I had lying around but I later decided on using the BBI-32 button box circuit from Leo Bodnar which allowed for more button inputs and rotary encoder support. After a bunch of CAD drawings and tweaks I decided on a final design that I was satisfied with. The plate includes 8 push buttons and 2 rotary encoders. I originally had paddle shifters included on the plate as well but decided to take them off because they felt "soft" during gear changes unlike my 599xx rim which has a nice tactile feel. Anyone have any tips on how to fix this? I cut the plate from 3mm acrylic using a dremel tool with a cutting bit and the mini drum sander attachment for the finishing sanding work. A word of advice for anyone planning to use acrylic, drill the holes for the buttons/switches first! Acrylic is very brittle when drilling and cracks easily. I learned the hard way by trying to drill after the plate was cut and ended up splitting it and having to cut a new one. I finished off the plate by wrapping it in some carbon fiber vinyl and attached it to a replica OMP wheel using a DSD quick release. When the Perspex sheet I order arrives I plan to cut a small piece to cover the circuit board to protect it. I was really pleased with how the project turned out as this was my first attempt at any DIY projects like this. I plan on making another plate in the future using the TM compatible circuit by moggen that I found from a post on here.
  14. hi found some nice an cheap DIY shift light... take yourself a look: http://www.billiam.org/2015/07/02/dirt-rally-shift-light-tm1648-arduino/ does anybody build a light like that or want to do this project?!? think about to order this stuff and give it a try! need a arduino for a future project (diy Button plate) for a t300 custom rim.... it would be nice to insert this display to the plate like an SLI
  15. Hi Guys, I wanted to share the pedals I recently modified from the T300. I was looking for a better option than the T300 pedals for 2 reasons, the first one is that the T300 are not the best and the second one because I have an F1 cockpit as a rig and the position I had them in was not the best. There are not many options in the market that could fit into my needs (price, customization, size) but the best one I found was the Real Gear GT pro pedals from Ricmotech but I have a PS4 at the moment and those work on PC only so that was out of the picture. I started looking for parts online and found similar ones to the Real Gear so I decided to modify my T300 pedals. Here are some of the pictures: The T300 pedals were very high so my feet could barely fit inside the cockpit and my legs would get tired very fast. The main parts for the assmebly Slave cylinder connected, completing the brake pedal assembly Took apart the T300 to use the electronics (Potentiometers). Used a small aluminum piece to hold each potentiometer The final assembly Brake Mechanism Here is a video on the pedals and the process:
  16. i have been very busy in the last couple of months designing and building my diy projects. all of these mods work on both consoles and pc, thay are powered by arduino. so no keyboard hack. and if you are familiar with arduino you can update according to your own taste. lets begin a couple of manths back i posted an e-brake build, here http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/21747-do-it-yourself-sequential-and-e-brake-builds/#comment-196485 then i got busy with other projects. like, DIY buuton box 5 parts.. but in the process ive come up with probably the best DIY sequential shifter ever made. lol. with a budget just below $100. exellnt quality,buils and professional look. anyway enough talk lets lets begin with the do it yourself button box and work our way to the current and latest build. please follow me at facebook here https://www.facebook.com/clos27reyes/ for early picks and sneak peak videos. and twitter here https://twitter.com/Clos27Reyes again for quick updates to projects and thoughts on new builds. thrustmaster wheel L3, R3 mod, aviation plug port diy pro build Buttonnbox button box pre build (undertaking) button box build part 5 of 5 immediately following the button box build jumped into a new build future project and builds progress on sequential shifter build sequential shifter pre build test be sure to subscribe on youtube to get notification of 1st part of sequntial shifter build being published today 9/26 @ 2pm eastern
  17. So, I've been working on this rig for a few months now, it's almost finished on its first stage, I'm planning to make it a 2 DoF sim, and not yet decided between 3 monitors or VR, so let me begin. It could've been easier to buy an already made rig from one of the many manufacturers out there, however, the only one I could buy for a reasonable price (mostly for shipping costs to Mexico) was a playseat, but even when they look nice for a starting setup, I wanted something more robust and with more eye candy, so I decided to go the DIY way, and the first step was to buy the seat, since I'm beggining from scratch, I had to get the seat before making anything else. So, I bought this. The simple fiberglass carcass, it cost me around $80 at my doorstep, the quality of the backside wasn't as high as I hoped it would be, so I took it to a car body shop so they make it nicer, at this moment I decided to give it a Ferrari look to my rig, this was the end result of the work done by the guys at the body shop. I think it looked great, and for $70, I think was a fair price. forgot to mention, that before sending it to the body shop, I had to decide how to mount it, and went for the side mounting option, and drilled the holes to add DIY nuts I made on my CNC, here're the holes drilled. Now came the hardest part, find an upholstery shop that would take the challenge to make something similar to this: I'm glad to know that they were up to the challenge and made a wonderful job, here are some pictures of the seat after the upholstery. It's real leather: The leather is a little loose because they didn't made the seat bel eyelets because I couldn't find where to buy the grommets, I'll come back to this later. This job cost me around $380. While the seat was at the upholstery shop (it took them almost a month, they didn't have any experience making upholstery for this kind of seats), I started working on something that was missing on the seat: The Cavallino, so I made the 3D model on Fusion 360, and CNC machined it: Here's a small video of the finishing pass https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6X9nUdO6tbRa0ZodWQ5clF5UGs, and after that it was just remove it from the aluminum stock and polish it. After sticking it with special glue, this is how it looks on the seat: Then came the mounting plates, also DIY, very similar to the ones sold by Recaro, and added the playseat seat sliders. Currently I'm working on two things at the same time, the grommets and the "chasis" for it, here are the models I have right now, I'm 3D printing the grommets from ABS to maybe make a silicone mold and then cast it in some kind of soft rubber, and the chasis is being made with 2"x2" steel tubing I already have a Thrustmaster TX with the Formula wheel and the T3PA non-Pro pedals, so that's next and I'm planning to make it removable, and something similar to the front of the Vesaro simrig, but with square tubing. Also, I haven't decided yet if I want to make the holes on the leather or just leave it like that, adding the grommets just to finish the backside of the seat, what do you think of it? Do you have any comments, suggestions, critiques?
  18. I'm about to start building my own "deathmobile" per Darin and Shaun's plans. I'm taking their advice and getting a seat from a junkyard nearby. I'm wanting to know if anybody here has any experience with that. I don't wanna waste 2 hours of my day wandering around the giant junkyard looking in every car to see if I like the seat. What cars have nice bucket seats I should be looking out for? Do I need to bring my own tools to take the seat out or will they do it for me? Anything else helpful that you might have to offer. Thanks for your time, Erich
  19. Hi guys, here comes another handbrake / e brake mod for the Thrustmaster TX wheel on a XBONE. My intention was to create a simple yet solid solution, and as there is an A button on the wheel base, I decided to tap that. Step 1: Solder two extensions to those wires coming from the front right pcb, which are connected to the A button (brown and orange) Step 2: Solder the extension wires to a 3.5mm jack socket, carefully drill a hole in the tx case and attach the socket in there. Step 3: Get yourself a decent and hefty arcade style joystick with micro switches (search amazon for "BQLZR joystick"), bolt it to a piece of plywood and attach that to your rig (in my case a wheelstand pro). Step 4: Solder two wires to a 3.5mm mono jack and connect the other ends to the corresponding microswitches. Step 5: Plug in the jack, fire up Dirt Rallye, enjoy your drifts with your sub-$20 e brake! Regards, Andreas
  20. hi mates found on thingiverse some interesting to print a guy release a nice paddel shifter assambly for us to build^^ it works with magnets and looks robust. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1678086 it fits perfect to my momentary project and i give it a try and will build and test it. i printed today a couple of parts for it. tomorrow i will print the rest. but i must order... for example the magnets with 8 x 5 mm. for the paddels i will use my old aluminium paddels from my DFGT mod. i keep you up to date^^ Ciao BattleGear
  21. Hi guys, so I decided to do a detailed DIY of my kart sim project, since there is literally only a handful on the internet. After doing some research, I found that the Internet does not have many DYIs on using a kart chassis as a sim rig (for karters or those who like the feel of a kart, this sim concept will really make you smile). Now, before reading any further, please note that I am writing this DYI because I know there must be others out there who want a low-cost solution, especially for those who are either not too serious in sim racing, or those who cannot afford purchasing top-end sim equipment. I would like anyone who reads the DYI to also add their own creativity and if there are ways you think it can be improved, feel free to speak out, since this was all thought out while I was going along, nothing was planned or drawn on paper beforehand. Also note that this is my first ever DYI, and I am not a professional blogger, but a simple weekend racer/9 to 5’er enjoying sim racing in my spare time, who thought it would be nice to create a DYI since I was struggling to find an existing one – so if I can help anyone out there who was looking for such a rig, my efforts in starting this thread would not have been for nothing. Now that we have that out of the way, if you are still interested in the DYI, welcome This is a “poorman’s kart rig”, which I made from scraps lying around the garage, I did not purchase a single thing yet. As such, the sim is only in “alpha phase” if you will. I used a simple Logitech Driving Force GT for the sim, without a clutch or anything fancy. As soon as I test the sim, I will start making special brackets to hold everything in place neatly and cover up everything, including giving the frame a fresh coat of paint etc etc. 1: Pedal to the metal I decided to use the kart’s pedals instead of the plastic Logitech pedals. To do this, I had to remove the “pots” after I did some research on how they work. It is basically like a volume knob, but with a spring that returns it to position 0. I decided that I will mount these little pots to the chassis and connect each to the throttle and brake (hydraulic) on the chassis, making it much more realistic than the plastic Logitech pedals. Step 1: Remove the bottom plate of the Logitech pedals. It is just a bunch of screws, after it is removed and the pedals are turned over, this is what you will see. The pots are linked to the pedals via small gears, which won’t be needed in my current setup. The pots are attached with two small screws as seen in the picture. {see image attached "pots"} One problem that I found is that the pots are connected to one another with a very short wire – now, if you want to keep your warranty, the rest of this post will be irrelevant, since I decided to cut these wires in order to attach the pots on opposite sides of the kart chassis. Seeing as the DFGT is a cheap wheel, I wasn’t bothered by cutting three little wires  The picture below shows the wires that link the pots. I basically just extended these wires, so I cut them. This was only to test the concept, so another option is to create an extension with similar connectors as seen on the pots, basically just creating extension wires with male tips on the one end, and female tips that “click” onto the pots on the other end, this will then result in no cutting – however, when I tried to loosen the little female clips from the pots, it felt like I am going to break off something so I cut the wires instead of running risk to damage the pots. {see image attached "pots 2"} Step 2: The red, black and green wire from the brake pedal pot was cut, and will be extended to the throttle pot. Important to notice with these pedals is that the accelerator pot is the pot connected to the plug that goes into the wheel and it has 2 red wires and 2 black wires instead of one, so do not cut any wires at the accelerator pot, rather cut at the brake pot. Now the pots were freed from one another and I removed them from the plastic casing. This is completely reversible should you want to use the plastic pedals again, you will just put the pots and pedals back into place as you removed them  Since I just decided that I am going to write a DYI on it, I did not take detailed pictures of how everything works, so I will take some tonight and post them over the weekend. But, I will put my paint drawing skills to use, to give an idea of what I did. Again, this is till only a concept, as soon as I get everything to work flawlessly, I will make nice brackets to clean up everything. I will also be using throttle cable to link the pots to the separate pedals. At the moment, I simply used fishing line to connect the pots to the pedals, since it can be tied around the pedals and pots, and cut off as soon as I can see everything is working. You can off course use any form of linkage between the pots and pedals that you wish, I just feel that throttle cable will be the easiest since it can be sleeved in the plastic shield and zip-tied neatly to the chassis. 1.1: How the Logitech DFGT pot works The pot basically works like a small volume knob on a radio, except when you turn the volume up and release the knob, it will turn itself back down. The green arrows (thanks to my paint skills) show how the pod moves forward or backwards when pulled. Pulling it forward (arrow facing left) increases brake/acceleration and vice versa. {see image attached "pots 3"} After figuring out how the pots work, it was easy to decide where they should be mounted. As long as the pots are mounted in a way so that the push of a pedal can pull the pot’s “arm”, you are ready to go! 1.2: Brake pedal The image below shows the pot at the brake cylinder, it works as follows – as soon as the brake pedal gets pushed forward, the line between the cylinder’s arm and the pot’s arm pulls the pot forward, mimicking the push of the plastic Logitech pedal downwards. It still looks messy, because I only tested whether it works and whether the pc picks up the movement of the brake pedal when pushed forward. As soon as I pull the kart’s brake pedal, the meter on the Logitech software on my PC ran up, indicating a perfect linear response. Let go of the pedal and the pot returns back to position 0. It is important that the kart’s pedals have springs attached to the chassis (as they come from factory), to ensure that the pot’s little spring doesn’t have to pull the metal pedal backward. At the moment, there is very little stress put on the pots, I reckon even less stress than were put out by the original plastic pedals with gears. {see image attached "kart sim rig brake pedal"} Although everything still looks like crap, it was only to test out whether the idea works. And it does pretty well indeed  To give an idea of the bracket at the brake pedal, here is a picture of it from the other side of the cylinder (before I screwed it in place – just used glue gun to line it up): {see image attached "brake cylinder 2"} After hooking up the pod and lining it up in order for the brake pedal to pull the pot’s arm, I went to the other side of the chassis, where the throttle will be located. 1.3: Throttle Pedal The idea is to use the existing throttle cable on the kart (that was linked to the engine’s carby which I removed), and link the cable to the pot. The best position I could find at the moment with the brackets that I had lying around, was right next to the seat (fastening the bracket to the existing seat bolt). The principle remains the same : position the pot so that pushing the throttle pedal forward, pulls the pot’s arm forward as well. The image below shows the pot being fastened to a bracket that I bent and drilled small holes into – at the moment I also just attached fishing line, since it was 11 pm and I just wanted to test it and get it done with. I am going to make a proper bracket and linkage so that the throttle cable can be linked to the pot’s arm properly. {see image attached "kart sim rig throttle"} After both pots were positioned and lined up with the kart’s pedals, the wires that were cut earlier (green,black and red) need to be connected again so that the pots can work. To do this, I took an old usb cable and cut off both ends, and used three of the four wires inside and soldered both ends to the wires on the pots. You can use any electrical wire, just make sure not to have any of the ends open or touching metal, to prevent a short. That is it for the pedals, I tested them and they work perfectly on my PC. The next step with the pedals are to link the pots with the pedals via proper cabling and sleeves, making brackets that look better and hold the pots firmly in place and lastly covering the pots so that only the cables are visible after I am done. However, that will only be done as soon as the frame is re-sprayed and everything is clean. 2: Steering The steering wheel is the tricky bit, which I haven’t really started with yet. There are two options, each with their own pros and cons, depending on what type of sims you intend to play: a) Use the Logitech wheel as is, and simply mount it after removing the kart’s steering wheel and column. Use the kart’s wheel and steering column, and create an adapter that will attach to the Logitech housing (requires removing the Logitech wheel from the housing). Option A is for those who prefer not to disassemble their wheel and would like to make use of the buttons on the wheel (for example the shift paddles). At this moment, I opted for option A since I have not put enough time into thinking how I am goig to extend the steering rod, create an adapter and attach the Logitech housing under the kart’s chassis (requires me to make a hole in the kart’s floortray and lifting the entire chassis). There might be another option, to put the housing closer to the top of the kart’s existing wheel, and create a short steering rod to connect to the housing – still, it is a project for another day. I only got the chassis on Tuesday, so on Tuesday night and last night, this was the best that I could come up so far. I removed the bib (nosecone) of the kart and used the bracket that holds the bib up to mount the steering wheel. I plan on cutting out a piece of wood and screw it to the brackets of the bib, in order to create a little platform for the wheel to clamp onto. As soon as I am done with this, I will post more images. At the moment, I just used two small pieces of wood and it works. You can create any bracket to hold the wheel, and with more time I probably will as well. The part of the chassis that holds the steering column in place has 2 holes in it, making it possible to create a small “shelf” to mount the wheel onto. I am going to test the sim tonight, and will give feedback as soon as possible. This project has only started, and I intend to keep updating the thread if there is any interest. I hope I can help someone who also got tired of searching forums for kart builds like I did. Below is a picture of the rig as it stands now (please keep in mind I only worked on it for 2 evenings so far after I got home from work, so it is still far from done, but hopefully it will be helpful to fellow karters/sim racers). {see image attached "progress"}
  22. Hey everyone, After using a desk mounted wheel setup for 5 years I've finally decided to (could afford to) take the plunge into a dedicated simrig build. Comparing all the different pre-built rigs available from Obutto, GTOmega, RSeats, Playseats etc., I couldn't seem to find anything that really suited my long term needs. I had been drawn to the seemingly limitless customization options of an 80/20 rig, and the added bonus of getting to design and build the rig myself just added to the allure. To begin, lets take a look at what I have been using for the past 5 years. Good god! Please, excuse the disaster. Thankfully it won't be around for too much longer. The rig pictured consists of a G27, 3x 24" Samsung monitors, an additional 32" Samsung TV with Ipad mount attached, and a number of other peripherals not specific to simracing. Needless to say, the desk didn't get much use as an actual desk. I based my design off of Giospeed Designs cockpit, with some personal alterations to reduce cost. Here are some Sketchup images of the design. For the record, I am 5'11" 175 lbs. The rig was designed around these dimensions, so if you follow any of these design sketches then make sure to take your own personal height and weight into account. The sketchup design allowed me to get precise 8020 lengths as well as accurate counts of the number of screws, nuts, plates and gussets for the rig. I ordered all of my 8020 extruded aluminum members from the 8020 Inc Garage Sale - eBay Store. The prices here were cheaper than on the 8020 catalog website. The initial intention was to spend as little money as possible on 8020, but not compromise the design aesthetic and customization options. Black 8020 was what looked best to me, however the price difference over regular aluminum lead me believe I would end up with a standard aluminum color rig. HOWEVER, I managed to score some overstock black 40-4040-Lite Black for even cheaper than the standard aluminum!! Yeah! (Note: not all pieces pictured. Still waiting on some backordered 8020 members.) In an attempt to save money I decided to order full length 8020 members and cut them myself. After looking online I saw many suggestions to use a miter saw or table saw with a carbide tipped blade. Well... I don't have access to a miter saw or table saw so I decided to do it the hard way and use... A hacksaw and miter box! With the use of some clamps and a little elbow grease I managed to cut through the aluminum with relative ease and minimal sweat. DISCLAIMER: If you have access to a miter or table saw, use it! After the cutting, the next necessary step involves a 9.5% double ipa, just for good measure. After making a few cuts I began to assemble the main rig rails and seat mount. One of the major downsides of a simracing hobby is that you don't really have the opportunity to test any of the equipment before you buy it. I was hesitant to order a seat that I had never sat in, but after a little research and some interrogation of popular twitch streamers I decided to buy the DXRacer seat. It comes with an adjustable recline and seat slider, and so far seems very comfortable. I havent finished cutting all of the 8020 members yet. So far all I have put together is the seat base and main rails. Some shots of the progress so far: This is all I've got for now. Stay tuned for more progress on the build! If you've got any questions please feel free to ask away.
  23. finally able to get some pics of this dash I've been building up! here is the front and back before i did any wiring as you can see for the buttons i have added a back plate for the rotary encoders and toggle switches too. this is because the plastic for the face of the dash is the same thickness of the threads of the rotary encoder (3/16"). the top part is a long 1/2" thick plastic that has cutouts for the gauges and holes for the warning lights to sit in. this way there is no light leak from lets say the green flag to red flag etc.... the leds are mounted on a back plate much like how the rotary and toggles are, and set into the 1/2" plate (but don't go past that plate). took top section off to add carbon fiber vinyl and label buttons. here is the left side with buttons in place and here is the right... got everything wired up and ready to test
  24. Hello guys, I have changed my steering wheel recently now I don't have any buttons on my wheel. Is there any way to make a DIY button using the wheel's two button connectors?
  25. Hi Guys want to show my custom rig where im work since july 2015... early in 2015 i buy a used DFGT und a copy of dirt 3 and started to race on my desktop and now im playing dirt rally, assetto corsa and project cars in this beast^^ Here a small video of my desktop setup with a wheel platform where be can moved to the left to put the wheel away for working etc... and yes the screens are old 17 inch 4:3 screens in eyefinity here i picked up for 30 bucks for all xD Now to the Diy rig: the pre cuted bosch 40 x 40 profiles putting the base together: a early configuration with the driving force gt: my Rig now: my pc: a amd 8350, Gpu 1 :crappy amd 260x graphicscard, Gpu 2 Geforce 8600 gt for the small screen, 8 gb ram, 120 gb ssd so on.... nothing special the screen stand: first they was hinged but they had to much play in it and the outside the screen hung down... so i replaced it with a slu plate with an angle of 40 the padel deck: T3pa with the custom Diamond plate and foot rest The keyboard holder 80/20 30 x 30 mm The cheap and uncomfortable Seat, will be replaced someday with a QSP Drift 2 Bucket seat... The modded Thurstmaster T300 with quick release and ardurino tm1638 mod^^ DIY Sequential shifter and handbrake: will be replaced, but later more^^ as screens i use 3 22" dell as eyefinity and a small 17" as support screen for teamspeak, mp3 player and to see what facetracknoir makes, as webcam for it i use the good old ps3 cam^^ the next things i want to change is the shifter and the handbrake. as shifter im looking for a fanatec 1.5 SQ. im driving atm a lot of ATS and need a H pattern but also a decent seqeutial for dirt rally. for the handbrake im going the a full hydraulic "DSD DIY" one but not with the traditional brake assembly also i want to build a nice DIY button box but its not so importent right now... ive you have some ideas for my rig to change something or things i also need give me a shout please^^ hope you enjoyed the pics and like my rig Ciao BattleGear