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Found 77 results

  1. Hi there, so I got the bug for designing stuff for sim racing, I previously made a formula style rim. This rim was great apart from one thing, the paddles! They had no feeling so I started looking for some other solutions but couldn't find anything I wanted or if I could they were too expensive so I decided to design my own. My background, I've been sim racing for around 5 years before that I did some karting and now my day job is working for a Porsche Specialist on the race cars that race in the carrera cup GB championship. i wanted the paddle to feel as much like the cup car shifter mechanism as I could so I found out the switches I needed to use and started designing. this is what I came up with, they are 3D printed in carbon infilled plastic (around 20% carbon) this makes them very strong with negligible flex. As of yet they haven't been fitted to a steering wheel but will be done next month as I'm busy for a couple of weeks. I'll update if anyone's interested.
  2. I own a th8a shifter but it drive me crazy every time I need to change the plate from H to sequential, so I decided to make my own seq shifter. I've converted a cheap rally handbrake from ebay to a sequential shifter by removing the master cylinder. It's console compatible because the shifter is wired to paddle wires left in the T300 base. Here some pictures of my mod. I really like the feeling and the clicking noise of gear change.
  3. I'm reserving this top part to pin my latest build which will be an 80/20 extrusion chassis running a 3DoF seat mover with rear traction loss. My detailed build will be documented and most posted on xsim which links below in my signature. Here is the prototype sketch of the rig itself. The rig will not have triples monitors as it is being built for VR. ************************************************************************************** ************************************************************************************** I've finally decided to throw in the towel on the console racing era and move over to PC. This thread will describe my current and new DIY wooden racing chassis. I'll document what I can and I'm happy to field any questions and welcome any comments you may have on my progress and finished project. Thanks go out to Darin and Shaun for this community and to everyone here that inspired me in different areas of this project. I'll keep this post updated with any new additions and pictures while the posts below will detail the build. Happy racing! PC specs i5 3750k - @4.0GHz 16 GB RAM, 256GB SSD, 3TB drive 7970 Sennheiser PC 363D surround headset Benq XL2720T monitor 120Hz Oculus Rift CV1 Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H Mobo Input Devices DIY OSW built with small mige and SIMUCube Fanatec v2 pedals Fanatec SQ Shifter Tactile Components 4 TST209 Clark transducers 2 Dayton APA150 150W amplifiers 5 Buttkicker kinetic isolators Simvibe software Monitor mount arms http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=59988&cat=3,43597,43601,60167,59988 Update January, 2014 SQ shifter mounted Update January, 2014 Monitor hoods added Update June, 2014 Monitor hood skirts added Update October, 2014 Mugen MBX7 Eco - shock and spring upgrade Update June 2016 Took down two monitors and now run with CV1 added a fan - manual for now Update April 2017 sold my fanatec base and wheel and standing up my OSW this week build on motion platform continues
  4. A few weeks ago my son switched from his old G25 wheel/shifter combo to a brand new Thrustmaster TX + F1 addon wheel. In the process he lost the G25 shifter that he used mainly for Nascar and MX5 racing. To get a working shifter, there were several choices: Buying a new shifter: obvious but expensive Use the G25 shifter connected to the wheel without using the wheel: inelegant! Buying a Leo Bodnar interface (http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72&products_id=188): cheap and easy Build our own interface: even cheaper and more versatile We chose the latter option to have the best possible control on the gear shifting logic: the stock G25 shifting logic is somewhat buggy, leading to quite frequent mis-shifts. Having full control of the software also allows adding some new functions: a handbrake mode seems the most obvious as the G25 shifter has all the necessary hardware. In the following posts I will explain all the steps required to build a G25 shifter to USB interface, based on a Teensy 2.0 board. This writeup is split into 5 chapters, each chapter being one post: Chapter 1: Hardware and tools required Chapter 2: Wiring and canning Chapter 3: Software Chapter 4: Tests and configuration Chapter 5: Conclusion
  5. Hi Guys want to show my custom rig where im work since july 2015... early in 2015 i buy a used DFGT und a copy of dirt 3 and started to race on my desktop and now im playing dirt rally, assetto corsa and project cars in this beast^^ Here a small video of my desktop setup with a wheel platform where be can moved to the left to put the wheel away for working etc... and yes the screens are old 17 inch 4:3 screens in eyefinity here i picked up for 30 bucks for all xD Now to the Diy rig: the pre cuted bosch 40 x 40 profiles putting the base together: a early configuration with the driving force gt: my Rig now: my pc: a amd 8350, Gpu 1 :crappy amd 260x graphicscard, Gpu 2 Geforce 8600 gt for the small screen, 8 gb ram, 120 gb ssd so on.... nothing special the screen stand: first they was hinged but they had to much play in it and the outside the screen hung down... so i replaced it with a slu plate with an angle of 40 the padel deck: T3pa with the custom Diamond plate and foot rest The keyboard holder 80/20 30 x 30 mm The cheap and uncomfortable Seat, will be replaced someday with a QSP Drift 2 Bucket seat... The modded Thurstmaster T300 with quick release and ardurino tm1638 mod^^ DIY Sequential shifter and handbrake: will be replaced, but later more^^ as screens i use 3 22" dell as eyefinity and a small 17" as support screen for teamspeak, mp3 player and to see what facetracknoir makes, as webcam for it i use the good old ps3 cam^^ the next things i want to change is the shifter and the handbrake. as shifter im looking for a fanatec 1.5 SQ. im driving atm a lot of ATS and need a H pattern but also a decent seqeutial for dirt rally. for the handbrake im going the a full hydraulic "DSD DIY" one but not with the traditional brake assembly also i want to build a nice DIY button box but its not so importent right now... ive you have some ideas for my rig to change something or things i also need give me a shout please^^ hope you enjoyed the pics and like my rig Ciao BattleGear
  6. Dont hate me.. I combined the two! Does this make my sim games feel arcadie? lol. It had to fit the theme of the room. And it's far enough along to call "done". But there are a lot more gauges and LED indicators I would like to install. I made a video of it in its current state and would like to share it. I have lots of photos as well, of the build process.. There is a thread "Hydro Thunder sim Cockpit, the build thread". But it has been Archived and closed? So I'll get to the build photos later but for now here is my custom arcade racing machine in its current state . Its all Fanatec controls.. CSR wheel and Clubsport pedals and shifter. My shifter is the H shift only version. The switchable unit was 2 month backorder when I bought it over a year ago. But I love in nonetheless. My button controls are read by a Symprojects JC32 and my gauge control is Symprojects ProGauge. Their products are awesome. And have great support.
  7. Hello, thank you for checking out my "How to" on building my simrig! I have attached zip files for you to download that have all the information needed for every single piece to build the rig, along with plans, sections, and elevations with some dimensions for reference. I will try to explain how I chose to go about assembling it below. - Attachments are at the bottom of this post, after the pictures. **** I strongly encourage you to take time and familiarize yourself with all of the information given before you begin construction. **** A few pieces of the build will require you to take some of your own dimensions to have it work best with all of your equipment. Refer to the "Piece Tickets.pdf". - For example, you will need to take specific dimensions of the monitor you decide to use. These will be very important in determining where the cutouts will be located for the monitor and front speakers, and how large they will need to be. **** If you have any questions about anything or see that I have left out something needed to build the rig, please send me a message or reply to this topic and I will do my best to explain anything you need. I would suggest that you reply to this topic, that way if anyone else has the same question they can get an answer just by following the posts. If you decide to build my rig, I would greatly appreciate it if you could add a picture of your finished build to this topic. I am very interested to see how you will make it your own, and if you decide to make any modifications to it. Feel free to change anything you would like about the build, I have only given information for how to build my rig exactly. - If you would like to play computer games on it, I currently do not have it designed with that in mind. If you wanted to though, a simple solution would be to put your computer inside the large panel that you use to access the back of the monitor & front speakers, Depending on how large the monitor is you use, it should be able to fit inside well. I would suggest that your computer has a good cooling system in it though, because it could get quite warm being enclosed in a small area. Key things to pay attention to: 1. All of my dimensions given are based on using 5/8" thick wood. If you use any thickness other than 5/8", many dimensions will be slightly off which will cause problems with pieces lining up correctly. If you use a different thickness of wood, you will need to add/subtract the difference it makes in all pieces that would be affected. 2. I used a 32" LG monitor. I would assume you could go up to a 36", but I have not verified that, and it would still depend on the overall dimensions of the monitor, and front speakers. You will need to reference dimensions given and make sure the monitor and speakers you choose will fit inside the designated areas for them. 3. Plan out ahead of time how you plan to finish the rig off. Whether you decide to add material, paint it, stain it, etc. You should figure that out before assembling the pieces so you know how hard it will be to finish off once fully built, or how much prep work you will need to do before assembling. 4. The plans I have designed were for my own personal preference, using a Fanatec CSR Elite wheel, Fanatec CSR Elite Pedals, and Fanatec CSR Shifter Set. Please review the dimensions given and figure out if they will work well with your equipment of choice, and personal preferences. Certain dimensions were not provided (such as location of the seat, etc.) because you should determine that for where you would like it yourself. 5. I have not provided information on how to attach all of the pieces together, I used screws. - First I drilled a pilot hole, then recessed it some so when I drilled in the screw, it would not stick out from the wood. I also did not use any backup support to drill into, I just lined the pieces up and drilled directly into the ends. If you do this as well, make sure you are very careful when drilling your pilot holes and make sure you are going through the wood as close as possible to the center of the 5/8" thickness. If you are off by too much, the screw will end up coming through the side of a piece, or cause the wood to split and not hold the screw in place. If you choose to add extra wood backing so you have a wider area to drill into, you should be able to cut small pieces from the left over 4' x 8' sheets of wood. *** Plan out what you will do before starting construction. 6. IMPORTANT: I did not build this rig with plans for it to be easily taken apart or transported. When fully built it is too large to fit through typical doorways. Make sure that where you build it is where you are going to plan on keeping it, because you will not be able to get it out of its location unless it is disassembled. 7. You will probably want to run all the wiring for the speakers before you close in certain areas of the rig. Once it is fully assembled, it will be difficult to run certain wiring, such as the rear left surround speaker. I also would encourage you to make sure you use something to hold the wiring in place in certain areas, so if you disconnect a wire it can't fall down through a hole pass through, and be near impossible to get back out. 8. (I will add more to the list as I think of them, or are brought to my attention) I hope I have given enough information for you to complete the build as easily as possible. Some of my ticketing for the pieces and layout may be confusing though. I tried to fit everything including the dimensions onto the size of a typical sheet of paper so you can print them out and follow along without needing a computer by your side the entire time you are laying out and cutting the pieces. - Please print out all of the tickets, and use a highlighter to check off dimensions and pieces as you know they have been drawn and then cut. Thank you very much for your interest in my rig, and building it for yourself. I became inspired to build/design this rig from seeing other peoples amazing creations on this site, and I hope that I have been able to inspire you in some way to build your own rig. It really is rewarding and almost as fun as actually racing in it once you're done the build....almost. Ha. Happy Racing!!! Material required for build: (8) ---- Sheets of 8' x 4' x 5/8" wood. (8) ---- Hinges for door panels. (5) ---- Knobs/Door pulls for door panels. (1,000,000...jk) ---- Screws. Recommended tools: - Circular Saw - Jigsaw - Drill - Sander - Measuring Tape - Level - Router (for recessing holes on shifter mount) ****Please download all attachments. They are all required in order to have all information needed to cut the pieces, and build the rig. Good luck! STEP 1: BASE - P-14, (2) P-15 Hold P-15 pieces 5/8" in from the edges of piece P-14 STEP 2: BASE - (3) P-16 STEP 3: LEFT SIDE (BOTTOM) - P-1, P-2, P-3, P-4, P-5, P-6, (1) P-7, (1) P-8, (1) P-9 STEP 4: RIGHT SIDE (BOTTOM) - (1) P-7. (1) P-8, (1) P-9, P-10, P-11, P-12, P-13 I placed the amp for my transducer on piece P-10. If you choose to use an amp with transducer, this is where I would recommend you also placing the amp as it is easy to reach with your right hand. Dimensions and cutouts will need to be taken for your personal placement. You will also need to have a cutout somewhere near the rear of piece P-10 for the speaker wire to run though, to the transducer located under your seat. STEP 5: ATTACH SIDES TO BOTTOM Attach the assembled sides from Steps 3 and 4, to the bottom of the rig from Step 1 STEP 6: MONITOR STAND - P-17, P-18, (2) P-19 Pieces P-18 and (2) P-19 can be modified depending on how you choose to support your monitor. If you extend them to the back of piece P-17, and widen piece P-18, you can probably place a computer on it as well as the monitor. STEP 7: MONITOR PANEL - P-20, (2) P-21, (2) P-22 Attach pieces (2) P-21 & (2) P-22 to piece P-20 before installing piece P-20. All cutouts on P-20 will need to be determined by you based on monitor size & speaker choice. Piece sizes for (2) P-21 & (2) P-22 will be determined by monitor cutout on P-20. STEP 8: FRONT SPEAKER STANDS & SIDE SUPPORTS - (4) P-42, (2) P-43, (2) P-41 Dimensions will need to be taken. Heights and widths depend on your monitor and speaker choice, and cutout locations on piece P-20. Piece P-41 is added to help pieces P-32 & P-33 together. STEP 9: SIDES (TOP)- P-32, P-33 Piece P-32 goes above piece P-1 from Step 3. Piece P-33 goes above piece P-13 from Step 4. STEP 10: CEILING, CENTER CHANNEL & LIGHT OPENING - P-23, (2) P-24, (2) P-25, P-26, P-27, (2) P-28 Attach all pieces needed to piece P-23 before installing P-23. Verify ahead of time that your center channel speaker will fit on the base designed to hold it. STEP 11: DIVIDERS - (2) P-29, P-30, P-31 STEP 12: BACK PANEL W DOORS - P-37, (2) P-38 Hinges required to attach pieces P-38. STEP 13: FRONT PANEL W DOORS - P-34, P-35, P-36 Hinges required to attach pieces P-35 & P-36. The opening at the bottom left of piece P-34 is where I have the surge protector located. All electronics should be plugged into it, then you can run just the one power cord from the surge protector out to a wall outlet. STEP 14: ROOF W DOOR - P-39, P-40 Hinges required to attach piece P-40. STEP 15: REVERSE MOUNT PEDAL STAND - (2) P-44, P-45, P-46, P-47 Stand is optional STEP 16: BASE FOR SEAT - (2) P-54, (2) P-55 Location and height should be determined by you. (I'm missing the pictures, I will update when I find them.) STEP 17: MOUNT FOR SHIFTERS - (2) P-48, P-49, P-50, P-51, P-52, P-53 Shifter Mount is optional. Cutting the metal rods that were included with your Fanatec CSR Shifter Set will be required. The length of the metal rods, and depth/specific location of the recessed holes in the wood will need to be determined by you. If you choose to use a different shifter other than the Fanatec CSR Shifter Set, this mount will not work. FINISHED! SIMRIG "EXPLODED" VIEW (I'm missing the picture, I'll update when I find it) ****Please download all attachments. They are all required in order to have all information needed to cut the pieces, and build the rig. Good luck! The most important attachments are the "Layout Tickets" & "Piece Tickets" MBoyerRig-2dPlans.zip Piece Tickets.pdf Layout Tickets.pdf MBoyerRig-PieceMarkPictures.zip
  8. Hey All, Just wanted to post a little information about the rig that I built last week which started with the idea from the Death Machine build from 2012. Once I got the bug, there was no stopping me. I started sketching things on paper and then I found AutoDesk Inventor for OSX and it was all over. I started playing with that and in no time I had a nice 3D model of a rig that I wanted to build. I'll go into greater detail soon, but I can't post all of the pictures I have of it here (the forum tells me I exceeded the limit of pictures when I try to post them all). Once I bought the TX Racing Wheel Ferrari 458 Italia Edition, the first order of business was to get the seat, so I trolled CraigsList for hours making note of cars that this one junk yard had available. When I got there the following Monday morning, out of 38 cars I had written down, they only had ONE with seats left. A Chrysler 200 with black leather seats. I picked up the passenger seat with a working sliding bracket and reclining mechanism for $108 including tax. Once I had the seat I could incorporate it into the design for accurate measurements. My main goal, contrary to the original Death Machine rig, was to make it as adjustable as possible. I have small kids and wanted them to be able to use it as well without any problems. The design has 4 areas of adjustability: 1. Seat moves forward and back 2. Pedals move forward and back 3. Steering Wheel moves up and down (at an angle, kind of like a real car) 4. Portable (as in, room to room) so it can be "put away" I'm pretty proud of the mechanisms I chose to make these possible; Well, except for the seat - the manufacturer helped me on that one To make the pedals adjustable, I put them into their own assembly. I used an MDF platform, screwed the pedals to that, created some sides and finished it off with a (quite expensive, but AWESOME looking) piece of diamond plate steel. In the back of the pedal assembly platform are 3 holes drilled, with matching holes drilled in the rig's platform. I use DOOR HINGE pins to hold it in place, and boy does it work well. In fact, it works so well that only 2 pins are really needed to keep it in place. Simply lift the pins, slide the pedals, and drop the pins in the new location. To make the steering wheel adjustable, my original design called for a cross beam near where the wheel would mount (front of the wheel shelf), however while building it, I realized that that would only really allow for ANGLE CHANGE, not actual up/down movement of the wheel, so I came up with a better solution by putting the hinge in the back of the shelf. I use two "gate locks" to hold the shelf in its position, which is working very well. Just a series of "stops" drilled into the inside surface of the wheel arms were needed (and redrilled a few times making some of them a little messy) to get it just right. So with all of the adjustability my 6-year-olds can actually sit in the seat (not against the back though, their legs are still way too short), reach the wheel and the pedals. It should also work for anyone 6'5" and maybe even taller. I'd love to get someone that tall (or taller) to test it out. Lastly for portability, I threw some locking casters on it. I knew it would be heavy, but WOW, this thing is HEAVY. Once it was tested (and ensured that it fit into the house) I primed it and painted it with the help of my kids. I thought that a nice glossy two-tone Black & Gray would look nice. After playing with it for about a day, I realized that the glossy paint on the top of the base was getting dirty/dusty really quickly and wasn't too easy to clean. So, for $10 I got a 3' x 6' piece of replacement carpet at the local auto parts store (went there for the cup holder anyway). Mounting it was easy; spray glue did the trick perfectly. Once the deck was done, I wanted to go over the riser for the seat and its brackets to make it look cleaner. So I used some garbage styrofoam from a ceiling fan I had installed recently. Cut it to shape and fit it over the brackets mounts leaving plenty of space for the seat to slide. When it was all done, and decals were applied (Mod Podge makes them look like they're part of the glossy finish), it was finished and I couldn't be happier. (Yes, that's a Barbie logo - my kids helped and I let them "make it theirs" as well, and they were so excited.) And the final product... AwesomeSauce Mark II Sim Racing Rig (I call it Mark II because it's a revision from my initial design.) I'm hoping to have the time to revise the Autodesk Inventor 3D model to As-Built specs if anyone is interested. Plus I can do some work to better estimate the actual cost. I had planned on putting body panels (MDF) all around it, but it would probably have exceeded 300 pounds if I did that. Plus I think it looks just fine as-is. I'm happy to answer any questions, and welcome ALL comments.
  9. Started with Steve Spenceley's basic f1 cockpit plans and let it evolve naturally
  10. Hi Sim Racers, so I've been thinking up this Sim Racing Rig / Desk PC. It's in initial stages of design, and don't mind the Posters on the wall, just a little fun. I would like to know your input on this design. The main Idea is to have one computer that deals with everything, so I don't have the need of getting a second one and having everything a bit sleeker, and I wanted a fully car looking and feeling simulator, but with a wooden dashboard, more details below. Updates: 3D Video Tour of the Rig Concept: Changed the setup to 1 ,about 40", monitor for the workstation (showing off the Dynamic lighting behind it that I want to incorporate). Added a proper cooling solution (I would like to know if it is good to just have 1 big, slow rotating and silent fan as intake or better several smaller ones, having the side effect of having a louder cooling) also adding dust filters in the final rig. Added buttonboxes, gauges, SIM RACING RIG The Sim Rig section will run from the Desk PC section, more of that below, it's probably going to have a T500RS base, reverse mounted Clubsport V3 pedals, TH8RS shifter, DIY hydraulic handbrake, DIY button box, also planing on putting a BMW gauge cluster in the dashboard section of the Rig, probably going to use a real car seat, and at last I'm going to use some transducers to shake everything up a little and probably rear traction loss motion since I love Drifting. DESK PC The Desk PC section is going to be a water cooled computer inside the desk with hidden RGB LED's around the brim of the glass table top, maybe a Corsair K85 for added LED's, not sure what hardware it's gonna have as I'm still going to take a while till I have enough money to make this happen. My idea is not to actually have 6 monitors connected, that would be overkill, In this design though I was thinking of getting a triple monitor mount that is going to be mounted with an arm to the wall and I could move the monitors from the PC section to the Sim Racing section, this idea is too crazy though, not sure if it is profitable because the setup time of moving the monitors from PC section to Sim Racing section, would be too high and probably quite annoying. So I though to just connect a 4th and bigger monitor for the PC section, but since I'm really used to having a multi-monitor setup maybe it's going to be an ultra-wide monitor. Also I am going to use a VR headset when I can get the opportunity to buy them. CABLE MANAGMENT The actual cables from the computer hardware is going to be channeled under the piece of wood where the motherboard is mounted to, so the motherboard, harddrives, fans, etc are going to have a hole underneath them where the cables go in directly and emerge under the motherboard, the table is basically going to have 2 compartments over each other, that's why its also so thick. cables for monitor, keyboard, mouse, speakers are going going in directly through the back of the desk into the hidden compartment and then up to the motherboard/amps/circuitboards through a small hole under the underneath. All the Sim Rig cables are also going to be inside of the Rig as much as I can and they will also go into the hidden compartment of the table through the right side of the table. EXTRAS another little thing I would like to put on the Monitor of the PC section is this Ambilight/Lightpack/Ambitape thing that comes in many names by many different companies and looks like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ttCmII50nM Also the whole cable management is going to be under the wood where the motherboard is mounted and behind wood, the only things with cables are going to be Keyboard, Mouse and monitors, I hope. Also since I'm an audiophile I will also want wall mounted mids and tweeters and a sub somewhere. So what do you guys think? QUESTIONS TO THE COMUNITY You guys think the Cooling solution is good like that? What material do you guys think is the best to build this rig out of?
  11. This Project is currently on Hold for a few months. It is roughly half complete. Everything was built using hand power tools. Most materials were cheap, excluding plexiglass and vinyls. I'm choosing the VR route, so triples won't apply for my rig. Not getting into details this time around ,but stay posted. PS: Do you like my plexiglass Air foil? Its connected to my G29 brake pedal. Works as a brake light It Glows Red, or any other color programmed.
  12. I'm currently looking into building my own button box and have hit a few speed bumps in the planning stages! If anyone has any experience or input on DIY button boxes feel free to leave suggestions and tips! I will be using the DSD 32 button no-matrix board for this box, keep in mind! I have a small list of questions so far: 1. Will led's illuminate as long as I have them plugged into the DSD no matrix board? Or is there more to be done there? 2. A "Push to Start Engine" 12V 19mm button meant for vehicles. I noticed they have 3 wires inside a main casing coming out of the button back. Inside the button, would there just be 3 "pins" that I could attach a female 3-pin wire to then attach the other end to the DSD board? Link to a button for reference: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Car-Engine-Start-Push-Button-Switch-Blue-LED-Illumination-Ignition-Starter-/331729123361 3. This is the enclosure I'll most likely use: http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bud-Industries/CU-3286/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsrGrAVj6eTvcoboH7QaVI0pt%2f8UOJlr6A%3d What would be a good way to "mount" the DSD board inside the box? 4. Would these work okay as rockers? http://www.ebay.com/itm/HS-5x-Waterproof-MARINE-BOAT-CAR-Rocker-Switch-12V-ON-OFF-4-PIN-Blue-LED-Light-/151559072319 5. Is there a certain name for a push button where pushing it in and "locking" is actually OFF instead of ON? If any of you are familiar with trucks, what I am trying to get at here is that I would like to replicate the parking/air brake lever, where pushing the lever IN releases the parking brake and pulling the lever OUT engages the brake. Looking to incorporate this into my box but don't know if it's possible. I'm sure there will be more questions but this should help get the button box planned and hopefully get what I need ordered. Any help would be appreicated!
  13. After watching the latest episode of 2012 in review. Darin and Shaun you guys have inspired me back to contribute more here thank you. now after I finished the DIY here about 5 minutes ago. I accidentally slide my magic mouse left and the page went back and I lost everything (yes after I posted the last word of this tutorial). so this is my second attempts. Please also note this mod does not work with PS3 and that you will loose warranty of your F1 rim(not the base) if you do this. Wheel rim will still function in PS3 just not the buttons or paddle shifters since it's connected to the SLI-PRO. you might need a cup of coffee/ wine or beer or milk and sit down as this might be a long read. hope you guys have a nice weekend. PART 1 – Equipment and Materials Disclaimer : Please be aware!! , That by following this guide, you are voiding your warranty of the F1 Wheel rim from Thrustmaster™ – IF you decide to do this, I will not take any responsibility for any damage this guide may cause to you, your body and/or your surroundings, you do this at your own risk., Thrustmaster will void the warranty of the rim (not the base) as soon as you open this wheel and/or made any modification to it. Kids /adults If you are under the age of 15 please close this page NOW! unless you have your parent’s supervision while doing this.- I will not take any responsibility for any damage you may caused (in case you burn down the place or have lead (chemistry code: Pb- read: plumbum) poisoning from using the solder iron and/or cut your self from having flying dremmel cutter bits fly in to your eyeballs) I am seriously thinking hard about not putting this guide online for these reasons. SO if you never use any electrical tools before, please DO NOT do this mod. Brief Introduction: Some of the method(s) used in making modifying this rim could be un-orthodox to some, rough on the edges at first even – however the end result if you do this right , is guaranteed pure satisfaction. Nothing beats the wheel that you make yourself. it is one of those things that you can keep forever and never grow tired of. Now that the pleasantries are out of the way, Let us begin. The Materials needed to do this are as follows: 1. 1 x Thrustmaster F150 italia replica wheel rim ( and of course a T500RS wheel if you are planning to use this wheel) 2. 1 x Sli Pro with the optional ribbon cable from www.leobodnar.com (SLI-F1 will be better if/when they are released) plus these ribbon cables- now this is available from bodnar's site but they currently have specials that you get these cables. SLIpro 2 rotary switches and 2 NKKs for 110 pound, whilst normally the SLI-PRO alone is 100 pound. Keep the guide open here’s link (http://www.leobodnar.com/products/SLI-PRO/SLI-PRO%20User%20Manual.pdf) 3. 4 x 12 position rotary switches from www.leobodnar.com (Get them from Bodnar as these will work with SLI as you only required to solder 3 wires per switch) 4. 2 x rotary encoders (ebay or leobodnar) either will work – only required 2 way ( I’ve always bought ones with push-in function, but in this case, I did not use/wire the “push-in”) 5. 5 x Chicken knobs /rotary knob caps. 6. 1 x SLI-Pro cover (make one yourself from dark Perspex to cover the entire SLI-PRo’s face)0- I would recommend this strongly as I purchased one from some modder online and the quality is shocking, The mounting holes does not fit the Thrustmaster rim’s hole and faceplate already crack/brittle when the carbon-fibre vinyl is taken off completely. I will update this with new picture once this is fixed. 7. 8 x waterproof momentary buttons (ebay) I found out that once you remove the stock buttons, the 13mm diameter holes of the original Thrustmaster™F1 rim fits these waterproof buttons without doing any modification to it (the face of the rim). (now this bit is optional – as you may use the stock buttons that was on the rim, however , it requires you to cut the molex connector of the button in order to wire them to the SLI-PRO’s ribbon cable) – I use fresh buttons to reduce error and for contingency of needing the stock button in future) – see picture below ” stock buttons” have white connector). ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION TO AVOID FLYING DEBRIS !!!!! Tools that you’ll need are: ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION TO AVOID FLYING DEBRIS !!!!! (have I said this enough?) 1. Eye protection- Glasses- swimming goggles or a welding face mask – (It is not fun pulling hot melting hard plastic out of your eye socket)- not that it happened to me. 2. A Philip/Pozi head screwdriver 3. wire cutter and wire-strip pliers + stanley cutter 4. Multi-tester 5. Solder Iron with the 60/40 resin core (better if you have multi-voltage solder iron) in case you over cooked the resin and damage a button. 6 . Dremel and Dremel drill bit Kit with circular cutter and grinder drill-bits. These ^^ things scares the bejesus out of me 4. a 6mm drill bit (for the External LEDs )and SLI-Pro LED 5. Hole Puncher 6. Oh ..and a vacuum cleaner – unless you are working outdoor. you are going to make a lot of mess like these. in case I forgot – ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION TO AVOID FLYING DEBRIS !!!!! 7. Some common sense. i.e.. don’t leave your soldering iron plugged in un-attended. etc. PART 2 – Electronics and Buttons OK – Now you have all the tools (that includes the eye protection) Lets do this. First you need to open ALL of the screws using the Philip head screwdriver – all of them. on the back and 4 screws on the face plate. Lay the wheel rim face down on a piece of cloth and carefully remove the back plate – there should be 3 sets of wires still attached to the main PCB – These are the paddle shifters wire and the PS/2 connectors that goes to the T500 RS base, remove them from the main PCB on the rim.(the two in red and black wires ) and one with coloured wires – It should connect to the molex socket as depict below in purple markers. -carefully remove them. Once you remove the paddle shifters’ wire from the socket, you can easily remove the rest of the molex from the main PCB and the 4 screws holding the PCB to the rim (marked in RED) Now this is the point of for you to decide whether or not you want to keep the stock buttons, these buttons are hot glued inside the rim and is a bit tricky to get out, either way if you manage to get them out – the waterproof buttons should fit perfecty in the place , if you decide to use the stock ones, you need to cut the white molex connector and strip the tips of those red and black wires. I choose to to take the stock buttons off. This is where you need the Manual here -> http://www.leobodnar.com/products/SLI-PRO/SLI-PRO%20User%20Manual.pdf oh heck you only need these diagram for this purpose- here it is. (photos are fromLeobodnar.com) I do not take any credit in creating these diagrams. The colours represent the actual colours on the ribbon cables itself. You need to figure out how many functions/button you are going to assign on the SLI-PRO The Maximum you may currently assign is 16 Buttons + 6 rotary switch -The Wheel rim have 8 buttons in total – please see numbers marked in red from 1 – 8 ; - 2 thumb encoders that comes originally with the wheel (marked button 9-10 /LEFT and 11-12/Right) - on the one I did I use the 2 spots on top (marked Rotary encoders #3 (button 13-14) and encoders #4 (button 15-16 ) IT has taken all maximum 16 functions/ buttons, but what about the paddle shifters you say? – well you see the PDF guide – each 12 position rotary encoders Switches also provide/take up a functions. So if you only use 4 ROTARY SWITCHES instead of maximum 6 – you are left with another 2 unused buttons. so I use the 2 functions as button 31 and 31 for the paddle sifters. Once you figured these out. It’s time to create some space for the SLI-PRO This next step of cutting and drilling require you to wear EYE-Protection, so go on, put them on now,( hmm maybe not while you reading this. but when you are actually doing the cutting) I use my SLI-PRO as a guide to where it should go. Once you figure this out.- there are couple of ways that you can do start your preparation. You need to take out the “Thrustmaster™” face plate after you remove the 2 screws holding it. ( at the back of my SLI-pro on the picture above) First you draw the area around the outside of the SLI pro where you are cutting – and cut the shape later on. or second method is creating a stencil first using a masking tape. 1 place your masking tape (with the sticky side on the led of the SLI -Pro) gently and try to get it as straight flat as possible. (probably the easiest way is put the masking tape face up on a flat surface – and then put your SLI-PRO face down at the sticky area leaving the marks) 2 peel it off gently – do not yank it as it may damage the connection 3. you should see a mark of where the LED goes. – This is where you get your hole puncher and – start punching holes on the masking tape where those marks are. (Sorry I did not took any picture while doing this . but I have a picture of when I did the Carbon vinyl face sticker) the hole puncher’s holes are perfect for the SLI-PRO 4. Check to see if the holes match exactly to the actually SLI-PRO. 5. If it doesn’t match, repeat this process. its should be quite easy the first time – be patience with the hole-punching. 6 .If everything matched- apply the hole-punched masking tape on face of the rim – where you want the SLI-PRO to go – and start drawing with the pencils where you need to drill. See above ^^ where the pencil markers are ( I forgot to take out the Thrustmaster ™ plate) – I used these as a guide for the holes. Take out all the buttons and these rotary knobs – I should be fairly easy to do so from the inside. Once all the button and electronics are out – The next part is determining areas to be cut out and “flatten” for rotary placements. PART 3 – Internal Structures and Positions (THE HARD YARD) At this point, you need to drill from the front of the wheel in order to install rotary switches and encoders where they should be. the holes are 7mm – I’ve marked the positions in red . WEAR YOUR EYE PROTECTION NOW !!! – Drill where it is marked with red circles. Where I marked “FLATTEN THESE: That is the area that represents “pseudo” knob, they need to be flatten out with dremel sander bit, the faceplate material of these bulging pseudo knobs are made from aluminium. the inside is hollow- so it should be fairly easy to do - MAKE SURE YOU TAKE OUT THE ALUMUNIUM ROTARY COLOURFUL STICKERS FIRST before doing this as you’ll need it to cover the dremel/flatten out area. Again – be careful and go very slow – required a set of steady hands- make sure each one is clean and use your dremel sander drill bit to refine the edges – no protruding and sharp edges, etc. If you want to have external LEDs you need to drill an extra hole(s) maximum of 5 supported by SLI-PRO – I am having 2 on each side and 1 next to the DRS button, drill carefully. THIS WORKS TAKES A LOT OF TIME AND PATIENCE, YOU MAY NEED TO TAKE BRAKES IN BETWEEN JUST BE VERY CAREFUL OR YOU’LL END UP WITH A “SCAR FACED RIM” There is an easier method to do this, by taking out the aluminium face plate completely you don’t need to flatten the surface of those pseudo knobs, however you’ll loose the middle sticker and all the writings. Once done, flip it around and you should face the inside of the rim like picture below. I’ve marked the area that is required in order to fit rotary switches where the holes are: Carefully flatten out those marked from A to F with the dremel- this is where it gets difficult – DO NOT CUT OUT TOO MUCH -use the red markings as guide as structurally it will still be very strong while the internal have more space for your switches. PS: see the button already installed on the right (top right of “C”) that hole is from the stock buttons and the waterproof button fits perfectly The picture below is where the shifter block are, this also needs to be flatten out to create space for your rotary switch. If you notice the picture above the elevation from “down” to “top” is now totally gone in the AFTER picture. also the 2 round cylindrical is now also gone. there are 2 springs inside , don’t worry ,that springs is only to create tension for the shifter, without it, the shifters feels exactly the same. it’s either taking these out or you can’t have any rotary switch(es) Now after this, you can start drilling holes for the SLI-RPO spot and where the rotary goes. It may looks very ugly at this point, but don’t give up – you are on the right path. Place your SLI-PRO in the area above and see if everything matches up. If they do leave it for now, if you have problem “pushing” or placing the SLI-PRO in to the front of the face. – skim more of the structural plastic until there is enough space, BE PATIENCE – GO SLOW when you skimming it with dremel. !!! NOTE: This section is the hardest part to do as you need to be precise of where you want the SLI-PRO to go. if you choose to just cut the outer area of the SLI-PRO in Bottom of PART 2 then you need a screen/face plate to hold them in space. I suggest making one from black tinted perspex ( as I will be making one soon to replace my current one) Place your rotary switches and button like so and make sure that the face of the rotary switches are flat on the inside of the wheel rim like picture above. (I’ll tell you how to do the middle one later) once you place the rotaries flat – grab the shifter block that you have trimmed down and sit /install it back to where it was before. see if you can reach the flushed point where it closes/sits properly with the 4 screws (bigger ones) installed to the end. On the picture above, the glue is touching the shifter block on the rotary switch, that means 2 things, I melt the glue so it has more space and/or trim a little more. So I did. Never try to force them if they don’t fit – they don’t fit!. Once those holes are drilled , place your rotaries where it should go ( notice I put 2 rotary encoders on top) instead of switches – the reason being is there are 2 very important structural “bones” that holds the shifter block and Thrustmaster “Quick-ish” release – If you want to install rotary switches on that position (where marked “REV” and BOOST” from the front) those 2 “bones” must be taken out and it will affect the rigidity of this rim. The middle rotaries gets a little trickier as the holes are already in place from the FERRARI knob that we took out earlier (you’ll need the knobs as well if you want this to look authentic) what you can use is put a washer in between the face of the rim and the locking nut, that way the Rotary switch is secured – another lazier method is using hot glue (NOT RECOMMENDED) Once installed try turning the rotaries and make sure they are secured tight and not moving around. all the buttons are in place and secured. Test the button and rotary switches after you secure them. Time for you to wire them up. Grab your ribbon cable from bodnar and have the wiring diagram handy (it’s the coloured ones I post on the second part) or if you can’t find it . go here (http://www.leobodnar.com/products/SLI-PRO/SLI-PRO%20User%20Manual.pdf) It may look messy at times- it's actually very easy and simple to flatten all these connections and wire- just make sure you split them up fully from one another. The Cables needs to be tidy and make sure you split the ribbon cable properly in order to save space later on. I solder the wires from the ribbon cables directly on to the buttons and rotaries. – don’t’ forget to solder the wire coming from shifter block to the ribbon cable also. Similar to the rotary switches like picture above. – be careful not to touch the solder-iron tip with the solder point of the rotary switches. as it may damage the internal circuitry. TIP: Try to Flatten each wire after you solder them and secure it temporarily with a masking tape or gaffer tape, before you went to the next button/rotaries to get the cable out of your way. After you finish this , it’s time to connect the ribbons to the socket on the SLI-Pro and test all the buttons out. make sure you configure the rotary encoders using the software provided in leobodnar’s website and then go to control panel -> SLI-PRO -> properties and press each button/rotation, see each one lit up as you press. and Christmas should be near as an addition I’ve installed a 5mm LED housings next to the DRS button for… well DRS signal, and 4 more LEDS on top left and right of the rim for other functions. Right click on the SLI Max Manager and test the device. AND WE HAVE LIGHTS !!! now with 4 more external LEDS Sorry about this ^^ Size, I don't know how to resize this, as it's direct from link. It doesnt' say replica unless it has an official Ferrari Product seal - with installed bezel for 3mm LED. I found these 3mm led bezel from my local electronic store "Jaycar" - to install (next to the red button) is drill 4mm hole for your 3mm leds - clip the already wired LED and the bezel clip on to those 4mm holes that you drilled. Install your rotary knobs – your face plate – put the round stock aluminium colourful stickers back . To install the middle Ferrari knob, – carefully remove the yellow Ferrari cap, leaving just the black part (jagged), drill the centre to fit the rotary switch “D” shape shaft. place it flat on the face and hot glue the shaft (small amount) to the black jagged rotary cap , and put the yellow ferrari cap back on. close the wheel rim and time for you to take it for a spin. a little picture with GSC Formula and Z1 Sim screen on my iPhone.(the picture was taken before I installed the bezel for 3mm LED)- so you see the holes for the 3mm LED is still not that "pretty" If it all seem too hard – I would recommend someone else do it for you. couple of places that I am aware of at the time of writing this. Zelko Roso www.Zroso.com – waiting time might be a while – but you get a complete custom wheel – not a Thrustmaster ™ mod Feel free to throw me a question / post a comment below if you decide to go the DIY route and need any tips / guide. I’ll try my best to answer them. In addition to Roso’s wheel from the link above http://www.zroso.com – I have just came across a company that is also manufacturing high quality formula 1 wheel – Meet : SalaMotorsport, Their new website is still under construction at the time of this post- however , the information was that, website will begin to launch in early 2013, and that the wheel using full Carbon Fibre body with the options of SLI-PRO and upcoming SLI-F1, which means only one thing, that THIS is or will be the closest thing you can get to actually touching the real thing and it is apparently made in the exact process that the real Formula 1 Wheel ($45,000) is made . There is no price at the time this is post. however with this much photo to convince us the reader, I will be keeping an eye on the news when this is released. Information provided and quoted directly from the source: SalaMotorsport are 80% complete on the new F1 Sim steering wheel and it will be available in the new year. This wheel is pre-preg carbon fibre construction and will use the new Leo Bodnar SLI-F1 unit and has 28 control buttons,switches and dials, all fully programmable. Made in the exact process that the real formula one (£45,000) wheels are made and only the best materials and top quality switches from Leo Bodnar are used in its construction. Production wheels will have Alcantara grips, clear extra led’s and Electrical Lifeline quick release bosses with adapters for all types of wheel base. It will be come in its own flightcase for protection. More updates to follow. The Salamotorsport website will be up and running at the start of 2013. Here are couple of pictures to entice our taste buds before the website launch , one for SLI-PRO ,… These 4 photos below is courtesy of Scott from Salamotorsport- I asked his permission before using these. with SLI-F1 Conclusion: It has been a challenge for me as I wasn’t expecting it to be this complicated- however during the process I have learnt so much that I think every sim racers/ DIY enthusiast must go through once to see how wonderfully complicated – how much precision and attention to details required in order to appreciate the process in making an F1 wheel rim. Cheers, M Enjoy the video during my first initial test drive.
  14. Ive included some of my build pics, it did not occur to me i would be posting my build until it was done w\and came out so nice costs $70 in pine and 2x4s, nails 2in and 4in $60 seat, got it out of a u pull it yard out of an 90's acura integra $40 in stain and lacqur $10 leds with MANY colors w/ remote build took me about 2 days to complete. all tho it will never be complete seeing how there is always something i could add. i chose to reverse mount the peddles because the oem mount style never felt real to me plus not they so not move around. my pc is a custom build i did end of last yr gtx 1060 overclocked 6gb video card, i7 7600k 4.0 possessor, 16gb of ram. i have only been sim racing for a few months not but im already addicted. i currently racing on a g29 with H shiftier, and also own a g27 full set. on the rig i am using the g29 wheel paired with the g27 shiftier and peddles with no issues. P.S. the only real reason i am posting my rig is to thank everyone on this site for there great ideas and help with my build. thank you all and i hope you enjoy the build.
  15. Hi Guys, I wanted to share the pedals I recently modified from the T300. I was looking for a better option than the T300 pedals for 2 reasons, the first one is that the T300 are not the best and the second one because I have an F1 cockpit as a rig and the position I had them in was not the best. There are not many options in the market that could fit into my needs (price, customization, size) but the best one I found was the Real Gear GT pro pedals from Ricmotech but I have a PS4 at the moment and those work on PC only so that was out of the picture. I started looking for parts online and found similar ones to the Real Gear so I decided to modify my T300 pedals. Here are some of the pictures: The T300 pedals were very high so my feet could barely fit inside the cockpit and my legs would get tired very fast. The main parts for the assmebly Slave cylinder connected, completing the brake pedal assembly Took apart the T300 to use the electronics (Potentiometers). Used a small aluminum piece to hold each potentiometer The final assembly Brake Mechanism Here is a video on the pedals and the process:
  16. Hi guys, here comes another handbrake / e brake mod for the Thrustmaster TX wheel on a XBONE. My intention was to create a simple yet solid solution, and as there is an A button on the wheel base, I decided to tap that. Step 1: Solder two extensions to those wires coming from the front right pcb, which are connected to the A button (brown and orange) Step 2: Solder the extension wires to a 3.5mm jack socket, carefully drill a hole in the tx case and attach the socket in there. Step 3: Get yourself a decent and hefty arcade style joystick with micro switches (search amazon for "BQLZR joystick"), bolt it to a piece of plywood and attach that to your rig (in my case a wheelstand pro). Step 4: Solder two wires to a 3.5mm mono jack and connect the other ends to the corresponding microswitches. Step 5: Plug in the jack, fire up Dirt Rallye, enjoy your drifts with your sub-$20 e brake! Regards, Andreas
  17. Anyone know of Vesa mount/bracket that will allow me to mount a computer monitor onto 1" (or larger) square tubing? I'm looking to build my own budget monitor floor stand after looking around for anything that's reasonable and concluded that the best way is to build one yourself. The simplest way is by using http://amzn.to/2jJ4BpK which can be easily put together. Any suggestion the mount a 32" BenQ ultrawide will be much appreciated.
  18. I am looking for any ideas on making a diy tv stand. It has to be height adjustable and sit over my steering wheel. Before I moved into my new place, i had a 42" tv mounted on a adjustable arm. With the cockpit placed pedals against the wall, I could move the tv about 25" from my face, just ahead of the t500rs which gave me pretty good experience with realistic fov, Now I am wanting a semi-temporary (cheap) solution in my new place without drilling any holes in my walls before i upgrade to VR. I was thinking of something out of pvc? are there any plans out for a diy tv stand or another cheap solution. My cockpit is similar in style and dimensions as the GT Omega (metal frame, seat pedals and steering wheel connected to that frame)
  19. So... I have got into sim racing over the past year and have slowly been acquiring gear. I was given a pre-cut RS1 for christmas and finally got around to assembling it yesterday. My question is where should I look to purchase a seat? I stumbled upon this guy here - http://www.ebay.com/itm/TYPE-R-FULLY-RECLINABLE-PVC-LEATHER-RACING-SEAT-MOUNTING-SLIDER-DRIVER-LEFT-SIDE-/201359198962?hash=item2ee1f18af2:g:qWAAAOSwU~FWDLaD&vxp=mtr Is that all I need to add it to my rig, or is their other mounting equipment i will need?
  20. ok so i have built a fully hydraulic handbrake fully works hanbrake as i got it all the adapters i used handbrake with adapter handbrake with adapters and pressure sensor handbrake with adapters pressure sensor and reservoir fully assembled and working the pressure sensor connects to leo bodnar BU0836A youtube video of it working i have designed a longer handbrake handle and im having it laser cut should be here next week PARTS LIST hydraulic handrake http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HYDRAULIC-HANDBRAKE-RACE-RALLY-AUTOGRASS-DRIFT-200SX-FORD-ST-EVO-FIESTA-GTI-GOLF-/220974679931?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item33731e077b reservoir http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-Hydraulic-Drift-E-Brake-Oil-Tank-for-Hand-Brake-Oil-Fluid-Reservoir-/231204102403?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item35d4d6a103 1000PSI sam sensor http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-transducer-sender-1000-psi-for-oil-fuel-air-/250957430320?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a6e3a7e30 3 way female m10x1mm thread http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400370411255?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 2 X m10x1mm to m10x1mm male adapter (but one adapter had one male side threaded to 3/8 unf to fit handbrake) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120786622815?var=420046548431&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 1 X bleed nipple m10x1mm http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-x-1-Steel-Brake-Bleed-Screw-Nipple-/131042379228?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item1e82bc05dc 1 X m10x1mm to m10x1mm female adapter http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120786622815?var=420046548430&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 and leo bodnars BU0836A 12 bit joystick board (but i used this for button box then attached handbrake to it via plug in button box) http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66&products_id=204 any question please ask ill do my best to help anyone make one it feels awesome thanks for looking
  21. Current state of the build: Main build log starts ... Since Assetto Corsa came out, I've got the itch to build an updated version of my existing rig and I've now assembled all the parts necessary to start. My g25 has been replaced by Fanatec ClubSport Wheel base, both rims, the CSP v2s and the CSS Seq shifter. The shifter broke on my g25 unfortunately so I considerd that an excuse to upgrade. I've acquired a new seat and a new ulrawide monitor also. My previous rig looked like this: It's had a fair few modifications since then though with a monitor positioned behind the wheel and a shfter mount attached to the seat base. New Seat: Mini LFEs for Simvibe: Buttkicker amp: The amp and Mini LFEs were actually bought for me by a colleague who recently left my team. I asked him to reconsider but he insisted on me keeping them. So, this first job for the new build was to attach the Mini LFE's to the seat. In R-Pod Mk1, I had tested them by bolting them to the inside of the MDF seat base. I was singularly unimpressed so I thought long and hard about how to approach it for the new build. The seat can be mounted from the side or underneath. This allowed me to apprach the issue more directly. I bought a plate of 4mm aluminium, drilled some holes in it, Attached the Mini LFE's and bolted it to the bottom of the seat. The resulting experience is what I was hoping for with the vibreations being channeled through the whole frame: Aluminium plate: Holes drilled: Test mounting: Plate covered with blackboard vinyl and Buttkickers attached: Side mounts and seat rails bolted on: Hope to have more updates on the build next weekend.
  22. hi mats i did it again xD want to show you my little buttonbox i tinkered over the last week... want so a long time a small and simple button box for dirt rally and ats that i started to search a small curicit for a button box and found a cheap chinese one on ebay. its the same like in the 15 pound box here in the forum... and it works fine with it... a dsd or a bodnar would be much to big for such a small box! could connect one button more on the board. i think about to mount button for a engine brake somewhere on the pedals like it was on old trucks like 2000s MAN for ats... the case is a simple 3d print with cover. the cover is 125cm³ and needs 15 hours to print o.O wtf! but now enoght of this. here the pics the small curicit i hate cable cluttern! my new dirt rally rim... its very nice 330mm 79mm dished rim where not breaks the bank. sorry for the dusty rig. my girl builds a cat tree on the banch next to the rig -.- very simple to mount^^
  23. Hey everyone, Figured I'd share my latest button plate project that I'm currently working on for my T300 base. I based the design off the steering wheel used in the Bentley GT3 racecar using a top mounted button plate rather than having the plate behind the wheel. I previously made a behind wheel mounted button plate a while back and wanted to go for a different design. After a few hours of drafting on AutoCAD I came up with a plate design and button placement I was satisfied with. I cut a prototype plate from some foam board I had lying around to see how it looked with the buttons. Pretty good if I do say so my self For this project I am using the TM compatible circuit by Moogen which can be found here: The circuit allows for both console and PC compatibly while maintaining the TM quick-release connection and includes inputs for 13 buttons, 4 d-pad inputs and 2 paddle shifters. I was amazed at how small and compact the circuit board is, making it perfect for button plate projects. I used push buttons for all 13 inputs and 2 toggle switches for the d-pad with the left switch being UP and DOWN and the right switch being LEFT and RIGHT directions. The wheel I am using is a 320mm NRG suede. To keep the plate raised off the steering wheel I'm using 1/2" plastic spacers which gives tons of space beneath the plate for the circuit board and all the wiring. Because of the placement of the DIN connector on the circuit I'll have to leave 1 screw out when bolting the wheel to the DSD adapter. For the paddles I tried mounting them to a backing plate using hinges and springs. With the push button I'm using and the tension of the spring the paddles have a nice firm and tactile feel comparable to my 599XX rim even using the foam board prototype. I wired up all the buttons and switches and checked each input using the TM profiler to make sure it was working before using shrink tubing to tidy everything up. The next step is to cut and drill the button plate, paddle shifters and the shifter mounting plate. I plan on using 4mm polycarbonate sheet for the plate and paddles and covering it with carbon fibre vinyl wrap. Once this is done and the DSD adapter arrives everything will be ready to be assembled! I'll post an update when the project is finished. - Cody
  24. Hey everyone, A while back I decided to make a custom button plate for my T300rs. The original plan was to use the circuit out of a 458 italia TX rim I had lying around but I later decided on using the BBI-32 button box circuit from Leo Bodnar which allowed for more button inputs and rotary encoder support. After a bunch of CAD drawings and tweaks I decided on a final design that I was satisfied with. The plate includes 8 push buttons and 2 rotary encoders. I originally had paddle shifters included on the plate as well but decided to take them off because they felt "soft" during gear changes unlike my 599xx rim which has a nice tactile feel. Anyone have any tips on how to fix this? I cut the plate from 3mm acrylic using a dremel tool with a cutting bit and the mini drum sander attachment for the finishing sanding work. A word of advice for anyone planning to use acrylic, drill the holes for the buttons/switches first! Acrylic is very brittle when drilling and cracks easily. I learned the hard way by trying to drill after the plate was cut and ended up splitting it and having to cut a new one. I finished off the plate by wrapping it in some carbon fiber vinyl and attached it to a replica OMP wheel using a DSD quick release. When the Perspex sheet I order arrives I plan to cut a small piece to cover the circuit board to protect it. I was really pleased with how the project turned out as this was my first attempt at any DIY projects like this. I plan on making another plate in the future using the TM compatible circuit by moggen that I found from a post on here.
  25. hi found some nice an cheap DIY shift light... take yourself a look: http://www.billiam.org/2015/07/02/dirt-rally-shift-light-tm1648-arduino/ does anybody build a light like that or want to do this project?!? think about to order this stuff and give it a try! need a arduino for a future project (diy Button plate) for a t300 custom rim.... it would be nice to insert this display to the plate like an SLI