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    • Darin Gangi

      ISRTV Amazon Store   11/29/16

      Hi All, We created an Amazon store that's pretty basic and currently only for U.S. shoppers. If you purchase something from it and then other items through Amazon, we make a small commission. It won't cost anymore than Amazon normally does but will help support our show and website and would be greatly appreciated ! You can get to it by going here : http://www.isrtv.com/isrtv-amazon-store/ Thank for your support !

Avenga76

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Avenga76 last won the day on October 1 2017

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About Avenga76

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    Sim Racer
  • Birthday 12/13/78

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  1. Hey Paul. Really glad you like the wind simulator!!
  2. Just a quick update. I am now offering the TMC blowers as an official upgrade for my wind simulator. The TMC is about 10-25% more powerful than the Seaflo (depending on range) and 4 times more powerful than the fans that Sim Racing Studio uses on their wind simulator. (And yes you can limit the max fan speed) In my testing I find you get a much better feeling in the difference in wind speed with the faster blowers, you could look at the TMC blowers on my wind simulator like an Accuforce and the SRS wind simulator would be like a G27 compared. Here is a graph comparing the wind speed at 600mm with all fans and no air flow straighteners. Obviously the closer you have the fans, the faster the wind speed, point blank the TMC blowers are 88KPH. Here is the raw data Model Wind Speed in KPH at 600mm TMC 42.64 Seaflo 31.86 Tyhoon 5400RPM 13.24 B Blaster (SRS fan) 12.93 Tyhoon 4250RPM 10.21 Noctua NF-A14 7.24 Noctua NF-F12 1.44 Here is a batch that I am just sending out with TMC blowers
  3. My DIY Wind Simulator

    Just a quick update. I am now offering the TMC blowers as an official upgrade for my wind simulator. The TMC is about 10-25% more powerful than the Seaflo (depending on range) and 4 times more powerful than the fans that Sim Racing Studio uses on their wind simulator. (And yes you can limit the max fan speed) In my testing I find you get a much better feeling in the difference in wind speed with the faster blowers, you could look at the TMC blowers on my wind simulator like an Accuforce and the SRS wind simulator would be like a G27 compared. Here is a graph comparing the wind speed at 600mm with all fans and no air flow straighteners. Obviously the closer you have the fans, the faster the wind speed, point blank the TMC blowers are 88KPH. Here is the raw data Model Wind Speed in KPH at 600mm TMC 42.64 Seaflo 31.86 Tyhoon 5400RPM 13.24 B Blaster (SRS fan) 12.93 Tyhoon 4250RPM 10.21 Noctua NF-A14 7.24 Noctua NF-F12 1.44 Here is a batch that I am just sending out with TMC blowers
  4. My DIY Wind Simulator

    Mines 540 CFM, but it's not all about CFM, they had no airflow straightening, so most of the wind will die off before it even gets to you. You get a 60% increase in wind speed at 600mm using airflow straighteners (See my wind speed tests here) http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/23623-complete-wind-simulators-and-kitsets-for-sale/?do=findComment&comment=207086 Also they are not using any EMF suppression so the coil whine from the PWM switching in their video is crazy bad. With a few tweaks they could make their system much better. Anywho, as you say, probably a market for both.
  5. My DIY Wind Simulator

    Here is a link to my kits. They are way more powerful than the Sim Racing Studio ones, but they are also a lot more expensive Fixed the link in the first post also http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/23623-complete-wind-simulators-and-kitsets-for-sale/
  6. Thanks, I have been so busy with building wind simulators, upgrading my motion simulator and my road trip to the South Island. Once I get caught back up then I will do some more videos.
  7. My DIY Wind Simulator

    The monster moto just stacks on top of the Arduino like this
  8. So I got it all up and running but something went really wrong in my first testing in game. I set my upper limit to this angle And it all looked fine in the SMC3 software, but then in game something went really wrong. It way overshot the limits and went all the way around and wedged the lever arm in to the wheel of my rear traction loss. Not sure why it didn't obey the limits that I set but the motor was still pushing hard because it wedged itself hard in to the wheel The stall current then blew my main fuse between my batteries and the controller box, good thing I keep everything well protected so everything except the fuse was fine. Disconnected the motor cables from the controller box and used a spare battery to spin the motor back to the normal position. Lucky I still had some spare fuses so I popped them back in and the simulator is back up and running, just need to figure out what went wrong before I try it in game again.
  9. Yeah, it's been a lot of work but I'm almost done. Replaced my little 4,300 RPM motors for my much bigger 5,300 RPM motors, I also brought another one so I use the 5,300 RPM motor for all 3 Here are some old photos of the size difference Connected all of my motor cables and battery cables, it looks a little messy with the relay wires in the way but it looks better once the upper platform is installed. Installed the upper level and relay. Tested the relay and everything powered up okay Installed all the cable glands, the battery cables are to the right, and the rest are the motor cables. Installed all my Anderson connectors for all the motors
  10. Got back from my road trip around the South Island, 3,000km in 8 days. Some more progress on my motion simulator. Invisible batteries!!!! New batteries from a UPS upgrade that we did at work Removed the old motion controller box Installed the base for one of the killswithes Installed the top of the killswitch Had to move the shunt a little bit to fit the new controller box Controller box in its final location Drilled and screwed in the base for the motion controller
  11. Man, what a crazy week. I have been really busy with my other hobby (Classic cars) so I haven't had much time to work on the motion simulator. For any of you who are interested, I'll post a little bit of my other distracting hobby. I brought myself a Chrysler Avenger wagon, that's my other '75 Hillman Avenger in the background. Had to tow it home because it needed a few things like the brakes fixed to make it road legal and safe, so of cause I used my '72 Chrysler Valiant Charger. Got it home, got it all fixed up and put my old personalised plates on it Had to get a bit creative to fit 3 cars in my 2 car garage but I got them all in there They look totally sweet all lined up. I am taking the Charger for a week long road trip down to a car show in the South Island next week so there another lack of progress. Anyway. Back to the motion simulator. Designed a stand for my controller box Water jet cut it and then folded it up Installed M5 rivnuts Countersunk the feet, I will just be using so wood screws to screw into the 10mm plywood at the back of my rig. Used some nice big washers, there are 2 bolts over by the motor controllers And another pair over by the wires on the other side of the box Looks pretty cool all mounted Did a little test fit of where it is going to sit Not that much more to do, the controller box itself is pretty much finished. When I get back from my road trip I just need to make up the motor cables and battery cables and connect everything up.
  12. Designed my boxes for my kill switches Printed the first one out. There is 2 parts, the bottom part will bolt on to my rig and has my normal captive hex nuts, and the switch itself fits in to the top section and then you just screw the top half on I made it so the switch slides tightly inside the box. The wires then have just enough room to come out the gland With the switch outside the box the wiring looks like this, there are some little grooves that you can push the wires in to so they can get past I also printed the little key ways, not that it could spin inside the box because it is tightly held in by the sides. This is how it looks fully assembled Printed the second one I wanted to make them super compact so they are really tight inside but they worked out perfectly
  13. Thanks Seb. I am really pleased with how the LEDs turned out. I am glad I decided to do the perspex window and LED. It added a bit more complexity but totally worth it. I figured since I was doing so my cool design on the inside that it would be a shame to hide it away in a boring black box Finished the wiring for the kill switches fuse and relay. Here is the wiring for the relay control circuit. red cable goes to the main 12V in, it first goes off to the fuse, this fuse is just for the relay control circuit, not the main fuse for the motors. They then go up to the two sockets for the kill switches, then off to the relay. Tested the fit back in the case Made all the leads going up to the relay. Ran wires back to the fan header board Connected a battery so I can test the relay. it all works perfectly. When you enable both switches then you hear the relay click and the boards, fans and LEDs all turn on. The big red wire coming from the bottom of the photo is the main 12V coming it, and the one that looks back under to the left is the 12V after the relay, so the relay is just basically a switch that connects those 2 wires
  14. Finished off the lid tonight. Glued in the red perspex sheet, I used my new batteries to weight it down (More on the new batteries in the next update The perspex window looks pretty sweet with the LED strip turned off. You can still see all the motor controllers inside Next up I tested the LED strip, really bright. Cut the LED strip and soldered all of the connectors between the LED segments and made a little header cable that goes down to the fan header board that I made in a previous update. Tested the LEDs. Super bright when viewed from this side. Put the lid back own and tested the LEDs and OMG does it ever look amazing. Looks way better in person because the camera can't really pick up the red, but the LEDs are the perfect brightness The LEDs and fans are hooked up to the kill switches so when the simulator is turned off then the LEDs will all be off, and then when you switch on the simulator then it all lights up. I am really happy with how dark the red perspex is you can still see all the components inside when the LEDs are off but it looks nice and dark. And then when the LEDs are on then it has such an awesome glow to it. It turned out exactly how I pictured it when I was designing it.