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    • Darin Gangi

      ISRTV Amazon Store   11/29/16

      Hi All, We created an Amazon store that's pretty basic and currently only for U.S. shoppers. If you purchase something from it and then other items through Amazon, we make a small commission. It won't cost anymore than Amazon normally does but will help support our show and website and would be greatly appreciated ! You can get to it by going here : http://www.isrtv.com/isrtv-amazon-store/ Thank for your support !


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/24/17 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Have a tablet? Need a free button box? Limited by 3 controllers? I've been working on a little graphics project and wanted to share it with those of you who might find it helpful. Many of you have probably heard of or used Roccat's Power-Grid tablet software, but for those who haven't let me give you a brief introduction. What is ROCCAT Power-Grid? Power-Grid is a free program that runs simultaneously on your desktop (race computer) and your tablet (Android or iOS). Your tablet serves as a "remote control" permitting you to push buttons on your tablet to open a program, run a macro or simply execute a key press on your desktop. Power-Grid allows you to make your own grid of buttons using their included icons or add your own graphics. With a few simple clicks you can create a button, chose it's background/icon, give it a function and add sound and text to it or use pre-made grids that come with the software. Why bother with this if you have a real button box? I use my own button boxes for sim racing, however, physical button boxes count as a controller. Older titles like Race07, GTR2/Power and Glory, rFactor and the like limit us to 3 controllers. As a result I can't use my real button box when running these sims as it places me over the 3 controller limit. (Wheel + separate pedals + h-shifter + button box= 4 and that is after I've disconnected other items I'd prefer not to. ) I use Power-Grid mostly for older titles but have also used it for Assetto Corsa since I can never remember their keyboard shortcuts. You can make a custom grid for each of your titles so it provides just the "keys" you find helpful for that sim. That also allows you to leave your keyboard mappings as you currently have them if you use different ones in each title. It's also very helpful for those of us who are older than the posted speed limit (hey, I'm not talking interstate here, slow your roll youngens). Having each button clearly labeled helps greatly when memory does not ah, serve. Some, for instance, may desire a label like HUD while others prefer MFD... that's why I've made such a large assortment. Power-Grid's Limitations - No Landscape One of my biggest gripes with Power-Grid is the fact that it does not permit Landscape Display yet. When rotating a tablet from portrait to landscape mode there is no change to the displays orientation. And since you cannot rotate the text, icons or graphics with it's software it forces you to use it in portrait only. That no worky for me. My buttons are made for Landscape only as anyone can make a portrait display using the icons and text already available with the software. I have designed my grid to look like an actual MoTeC keypad, something like this... I made a fairly nice assortment of buttons which should cover most needs but suggestions are welcome. (PM me if you have a request). If you notice any mistakes, like a button doesn't light up or click when pressed please let me know. When the "MoTeC" button is pressed, the lights on top will light up giving you a visual indication that the button has been pressed. You will also hear a click thru your desktop computer. Rocker switches are two-part switches with the Upper and Lower parts labeled. If you have never used Power-Grid these are detailed instructions on installing my custom buttons. It is very easy but just in case someone is struggling I've tried to cover all the bases. Most will probably not need to read directions as Power-Grid labels things nicely. How To Install / Use My Buttons - Download and install ROCCAT Power-Grid on to your host/racing computer. - Download it's remote app onto your tablet (directions on linking is in link above) - Open up your race game and make note of the in-game button mappings you use (ex: M = Trackmap). These must be entered into Power-Grid for it to function, otherwise you can click til your heart's content but it won't do anything. - Download my custom button package (I have it in my Dropbox as I don't know how else to share.) - Open Power-Grid on your desktop (host) and click the Editor tab Note: your IP is needed for the two to communicate. Check to ensure your AntiVirus is not interfering if you have issues. - Click Import Package (left column, bottom) and chose the downloaded file (.rpgp) - Click on the Create New Grid icon, (right column at top) This will give you a blank slate for making your own custom grid using my buttons - After importing, you can find my buttons under Controls > Custom Controls (left column, top) When you chose a button from the list it will display it in the center column so you can see what it looks like. - After selecting a button you wish to use you must enter the keyboard key which you want mapped to this button. Enter this in the Function Box. (center column, top) Here you can also remove or change the button click sound and change the Trigger. A "Double Tap" trigger might be suitable for buttons like Ignition, Restart, View to prevent accidental taps. Note: The Active Graphic and Background URL's must not be altered or my button will not display correctly. It is designed so that the 3 small lights at top glow when pressed. Since the Text Title cannot be rotated my buttons include the text, so leave this blank in the editor. The only option you must assign is Function so that it triggers a command/key press. - After entering your mapped key under Function you can now click Add to Grid. The button is added to your grid and can be moved to any position. Repeat for each additional button you wish to add. - Once you are finished with your custom grid click Apply and save your layout. You must click Apply for changes to be seen on remote tablet. - Click Add to Bar to place your custom grid into a slot for ease of selecting. Note: Power-Grid limits you to a couple of "slots". A slot holds the Grids you choose, enabling you to switch easily between Grids. While you can purchase more slots, you don't have to. It merely simplifies things if you need 4 or more Grids at the ready at all times... most people won't. To work around this simply add the Grids you use the most to the slots and swap them out if you run out of slots. Hope you like it guys. Bailey P.S. Word files simply list what keys I have mapped for each button's functions. Download MoTeC Grid (Universal) Euro Truck Simulator Grid Word file for ETS Game Stock Car Extreme Grid Word file for GSCE RaceRoom Racing Experience Grid Word file for R3E
  2. 7 points

    Fanatec - OMP Cast Alloy Pedal Set Adapter

    For an ISRTV member, I developed some pedal plate adapters for the Fanatec Clubsport pedals. The adapters are made from 5/8" aluminium and tapped M6 and use the standard hole pattern on the clubsport pedals, so this is a simple upgrade. OMP QA-1000, Sandblasted aluminium, Brake 60x100mm, accelerator 60x100mm OMP QA-1020, Powder coated aluminium,
  3. 5 points

    Simetik cockpit

    So I finaly pulled the trigger, and built myself a racing rig. It took a few days, and a lot of work, but I'm happy with the result. Firstly, I want to point out that I am not affiliated with any of the companies i "review" here, so if it's good or bad, i will say so based on my personal opinion. The Rig The rig is based on the Simetik K2 cockpit. I had never heard of this company before, but I read a good review of it on a forum, and decided to give it a try. The reviewer claimed it was made of "panzersteel", as it was very sturdy! Also based on the website, it looks like it was created to match the geometry of the Audi R8 race car, which has to be a good thing right? Anyways, for the price (225 euros pluss shipping) it is indeed very good and sturdy. I have not owned any "hi-end" rigs before, but compared to my old PlaySeat, it is lightyears ahead. Its fairly heavy, weighing in at about 25 kg without seat, and is constructed mainly of 3 or 5mm sheet metal (steel?). So the product is very nice, and the support was outstanding. Nuno from Simetik, which handeled my order, told me that if I was very tall I'd probably not be very comfortable in the K2. So, he offered to make me a custom version 5 cm longer then standard, with no increase in price. That's what I call good pre-sales support! However, some issues I have with Simetik, and those are realy minor, and I guess would be an easy fix for them, as it is manly to do with the order prosess. - When you order, they don't have a "webshop" per say, but you order via direct e-mail contact with the company. That is probably fine for now, but if/when they get more sales, that will not work. - I tried to order the K2 with seat, but that was out of stock, even if there was no indication of this on the website. - The design for the screen mount/tripple screen mount on the K2 is to far forward, hence I went for an Obutto Tripple screen mount instead. - No assembly instructions provided. - Even with a 5 cm longer model, I had to redrill holes in the pedal plate further back for the Fanatech CSP v3s to not have the seat all the way back the whole time . (I'm 185cm tall). A 10cm longer model would be ideal for me. But dispite these minor flaws, the overall experience with the cockpit and Simetik was very positive! The rest OK, So I have a TM T300 with the Ferrari 458 wheel (with custom wheelplate by SRH), and a custom made (by me) F1 wheel. (Following Pascalhs excelent write up here: http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/12982-thrustmaster-f1-wheel-mod-with-simr-f1-display-switches-and-encoders/) I won't bore you with T300 review, as thats done to death, but needless to say the pedals leaves a lot to be desired, so I ordered a set of Fanatec CSP V3s that I recieved a few days ago. I had the G25 with a hyd brake mod before, but I really like the Fanatecs. I have not recieved the small hyd dampeners yet, but event without them I find that the load cell works fine. Not as good as propper hydraulics, but pretty close. And lap time wise, you won't see a difference. Clutch was to light for my liking, but a swap to the included stronger spring fixed that. Rumble motors on brake and throttle pedal are just about worthless. To weak to be able to feel them, even when racing in socks. And with 5 buttkickers on the rig, it just overpowers them completely Buttkickers run by SimVibe. 4 in chassis mode, and on in extentions mode hidden inside the shifter pedestal. Works nicely, and gives a lot if feedback and immersion. Won't race without it now! That's what I had for now.
  4. 4 points

    DSD Hydraulic Handbrake DIY Project

    For anyone else that is interested in making their own i have put together a list of parts that i used along with prices and where purchased.It works out at about £175 all up including the USB controller. As you can see I had to add a Button Box with hat switch to mine as i use my own wheel that doesn't have buttons on it and i didn't fancy using the keyboard to navigate menus.As it runs from the same USB controller it was simply as case of wiring everything into the controller.Works a treat.
  5. 3 points
    G Lamb

    100% homemade rigs

    I'm new on this forum! so i will presente you my homemade rigs (note english is not my first language) i work in a exhaust shop so alot off my material is exhaust part the project is not finish! some paint and improvement needed i use to slim metal sheet for pedal and wheel support. I have to remake it the seat is mount on car slider seat! i can adjust the seat to have a f1 or a regular position the steeing wheel is a thrutsmaster TX with t3pa pedal add-on , some other steering ( all in the photo ) and a hand brake mods with the classical ebay stuff the console is made off wood covered off fake leather i integrate the control bouton off the seat in it. Because i can't reach them with the console in place (off course the console is fix on the pipe with 2 exhaust clamp!) I use a xrocker gamre seat with 2 speaker and a subwoofer in the backrest ! i don't have shifter yet but soon i hope! i will instal it on the side off my handbrake on top off my console
  6. 3 points

    New RSeat - N1

    Price for this is just too high. For 440 euro you can get, way better Simetik Cockpit k2 plus all accessories. Adjustabilty is just perfect in this cockpit.
  7. 3 points


    I dont know how old this list is but I'm sure you can find something here. Perhaps in the wheel stand section below and pair it with a comfortable chair/gaming char. Cockpit and wheel stands 4playracing. ebay store only http://stores.ebay.com/4playracingusa Aeon Simolators http://www.aeonsim.com/ Apiga http://www.apiga.com.hk ARC Team http://www.f1driving.it/en Bernax http://www.bernax.nl Ball Racing BRD Velocity V1 250 motion system http://www.brdsim.com Carriage works VCR 1000 www.racingsimulatorseats.com/ Classic Race Simulators http://www.classicracesimulators.com Cobra Racing Sim http://www.slicksteel.co.uk/cobra.html Cockpit Extreme racing http://www.cockpitextremeracing.com.br/blog/ Converttable http://www.converttable.eu/ Custom Cockpits http://www.custom-cockpits.com/ CXC Simulation Professional http://www.cxcsimulations.com/ Dxracing http://www.dxracer.com/index.html Ellip6 http://www.ellip6.com/ Fanatec Rennsport Cockpit www.fanatec.de Fast track Sims http://www.fasttracksims.com/ F K Automotive http://www.fk-shop.de/en/Sport-Seat...PC-gamers-and-game-consoles-fabric-black.html Force Dynamics http://www.force-dynamics.com/ GamePOD GT2 http://www.gamepod.co.uk/ Gamers cockpit http://www.gamerscockpit.com.au G force sim http://www.gforcesim.com/ Gekosystem http://www.gekosystems.com/ GT Omega Racing . http://www.gtomegaracing.com GTC pro racing cockpit http://www.granturismocockpit.com GTR simulator http://www.gtrsimulator.com/ Granstand http://www.granstand.com/ Grandturgismo http://www.granturgismo.com/rkdmini.html Home Racing by DCM www.homeracing-seat.com Humanracing GT Chassis http://www.humanracing.co.th JCL Sim Racing http://www.jcl-simracing.com/en/#blockbestsellers Joy Ride Simulators http://joyridesimulators.com/ Monsta s Gamimng systems www.monsta.cc MS4R simulator http://www.ms4r.com/simulators myhome simulator www.myhomesimulator.com Nixim http://www.nixim.com Obutto http://obutto.com/ Open wheeler http://www.openwheeler.co.uk / Oring F1 Simulator http://www.motionsystems.eu/ Pagnian imports http://www.pagnianimports.com.au/racing-simulator-cockpit.html Playseat (http://www.playseat.com/en) Playseat Challenge http://www.playseatstore.com/challenge.html Profisim http://www.profisim.cz/ ProSimu http://www.prosimu-shop.com Race Room http://www.raceroom.com/shop_usa/ Redline game theater www.pinballsandgames.com/sitdowndrivers.html Ricmotech Driving Sim http://www.ricmotech.com/diy Rinoseat Revolution (http://www.rinoseats.com December 2012 purchased by Fanatec Rosso Modello http://www.rossomodello.com/eng-gtd.html rSeat http://www.rseat.net Race star shop http://shop.race-star.com/index.php?XTCsid=99v89724bmnmcs6amggogo25a0 Sim Craft http://www.simcraft.com/ Simxperience http://simxperience.com/en-us/home.aspx Sim Racing Station www.simracingstation.com Sim Seats http://www.sim-seats.com Simwor simulators http://www.simworx.com.au/simulators.html Speed Master 2 http://speedmaster2.de/index-1.html TL1 Simulator from Ariel Atom http://www.motionsimulation.com/ Total Spanish Simulators http://www.totalspanishsimulator.com/ Virtual Cockpi www.virtualcockpit.com.ar Virtual Motorsports http://virtualmotorsportsinc.com/ Visionraccer VR3 us. http://www.visionracer.com VRC racing chassis http://www.bobearlracing.com VRX Simulator http://vrx.ca/ Vesaro racing sim http://www.vesaro.com Volair Sim http://www.volairsim.com/ Wagner race products http://www.wagnerraceproducts.com Xpit http://www.xpit.hu X6 Simulator http://www.x6-simulator.com/ Zalem http://www.zalem.es Wheel Stands ApexVStand www.apexvgear.com Apiga http://www.apiga.com.hk Cockpit extreme racing http://www.cockpitextremeracing.com.br/blog/ Driverpod http://www.coolsimsolutions.com/index.html Dxracing http://www.dxracer.com/index.html Earl RS http://steeringwheelstand.co.uk/ Fanatec Rennsport wheelstand www.fanatec.de GamePOD GT2 http://www.gamepod.co.uk/ Granstand http://www.granstand.com/ GT Omega Racing . http://www.gtomegaracing.com GTvRacer Wheel Stand www.gtvracer.com Home Racing by DCM www.homeracing-seat.com Ionrax http://www.ionrax.com/shop/ Pagnian imports http://www.pagnianimports.com.au/ Playseat Challenge http://www.playseatstore.com/challenge.html Proto Sim Tech http://www.protosimtech.com/ Sim Racing Station www.simracingstation.com Speedblack Evo www.speedblack.com Steadiplay http://steadiplay.com Wheelstand pro www.wheelstandpro.com Wheelstand racing http://www.wheelstandracing.com/ Xlerator Wheels Stands www.xwstands.com Virtual Cockpit www.virtualcockpit.com.ar
  8. 3 points

    DSD Hydraulic Handbrake DIY Project

    The frex uses the same brake mechanism, commonly found from HK and China. Their device is a load cell action. What I've posted here is a full and complete DIY list so anyone can make their own hydraulic hand brake, and other than the mechanism being the same, this is nothing like the Fres. Of course, we sell a finished one, but the DIY guide was posted in the spirit of building community value. Have fun with your project.
  9. 3 points
    HPP every time - I want those pedals so badly! Just a matter of when I get them and not if I get them. I can't decide to go motion or upgrade the most important high end parts on the rig (wheel and pedals)
  10. 2 points
    Edit #2: I've added a part 2 to this guide, which explains how to integrate non-Fanatec rims. See Part 2 here. Edit: I've found that a shorter 30mm spacer will also work in the application, see added pics, below. ______________________________ I thought some here might appreciate a how-to guide to integrate your OSW wheel with Fanatec Rims, allowing plug-and-play with no rim modifications, and keeping all button box, display, and vibration functionality with your Fanatec Rims. The principle here is simple: use a Fanatec/USB conversion board and route all signals through the in-hub quick release. I'm going to mention specific parts sources, below, but you could substitute if you're comfortable. Our end goal is this: There are 5 key parts needed for this conversion. 3 are easy to obtain, the other 2 can be tricky. We're adding: a 5cm hollow hub extension (to internally house the conversion board and provide room for wiring), a Fanatec Quick release, a Fanatec wiring harness, a coiled USB cable, and the USB conversion board itself. The 5cm hub extension is easy. The bolt-circle for both the OSW wheel attachment and the Fanatec Quick release is 70mm. I ordered a very nice machined/anodized aluminum unit off Amazon, seen in the photos here. Here's the link to the Amazon extension. For the USB conversion board, I used the Leo Bodnar board. It's available here. There are other options for this board if you're comfortable with Arduino programming, a Google search will reveal other options. The Bodnar board is plug-n-play, and (importantly), can be easily modifed (shortened) for the use here. Likewise the coiled USB cable is readily available. I ordered this one. The Fanatec Quick Release came with my OSW wheel package from Tomo Meglic at Simracinbay.com. I don't believe these are available separately. I highly advise ordering this magnificent, stainless-steel machined connector at the time your order your OSW Wheel. I can highly recommend Tomo, and his OSW packages are a great way to get into an OSW wheel. The final bit is the wiring harness from Fanatec. This is available as a spare part from Fanatec. I opened a chat session with a customer service rep, and said I needed a replacement. As I had a Fanatec CSW v2 wheelbase registered on my account from a prior purchase, they authorized a sale of this part to me. It cost $5. The Fanatec "Product Code" for this part is "SP-CSW MC new CSW main cable". You could also remove one from a Clubsport base if you prefer. I wish we had a better source for this critical part, so good luck in obtaining this harness. Now, onto the installation. First, I installed the Fanatec Harness into Tomo's quick release hub: I used spare 3mm nuts/bolts I had. Be sure to align it correctly, the "gap" in the pins goes to the 6 o'clock position (opposite the machined channel) on the quick release. Also, please use a thread-lock on your bolts and nuts. I used Locktite 271 Red (high strength). This part will be constantly pounded by the FFB and if you don't lock these nuts, they will come loose. I didn't have room for lock-nuts, it was a tight fit and I had to use small-outer-diameter standard 3mm nuts. With the harness installed, I mounted the steering wheel adapter and 5cm steering wheel spacer onto the OSW motor shaft. Be sure to work the 4 attachment bolts until all are very snug and none move anymore. It takes quite a bit of time to tighten this down, but you'll eventually reach a point where all 4 bolts no longer are loose. Another important point: please index your OSW wheel prior to attaching the final quick release. This allows auto-calibration of the wheel on startup. To index your wheel, hookup your OSW wheel and open the MMOS software *without* anything attached to the motor shaft. Rotate the motor shaft and hit the "center wheel" button in MMOS. Note the "offset" setting. Keep rotating the shaft, hitting the button, and noting the offset setting. Once you have the offset setting somewhere between -400 and +400, you've found the center point. Make a mark on the motor shaft at the 12 o'clock position, and align your installation so this mark is at the top when you finally attach the quick release. Now, for the conversion board. You need to make a couple of modifications. To start, you can shorten the board. I cut the board on my band saw about 3-4mm away from the USB attachment plug. This allows the board to easily fit into the 5cm steering wheel extension. Here's a picture of the board after cutting on the band saw: The second modification is the plug from the harness. The harness attachment is a 12-pin plug, while the Bodnar board has an 8-pin connector. You need to remove the sides of the connector on the Bodnar board, as well as the tabs from the 12-pin connector on the harness. I used a hobby knife for this. The proper attachment is to flip the 12-pin connector upside down (the former tabs on the plug will face the bottom of the board), and attach this from pin 2 to pin 9 into the Bodnar board. Here's a picture. I used a red marker to indicate how this fits for future use. Also, I prepared the coiled USB cable at this time. I cut off the mini-plug, and you'll find the 4 standard USB wires (Red, White, Green, Black) inside the shielded sleeve. I preserved a good length of the shield sleeve wire, as I attached this to one of the mounting bolts on the wheel adapter to reduce EMI. I also drilled a hole in the 5cm steering wheel extension, as you can see, to pass the coiled USB cable through. I fitted a rubber grommet over the cable before inserting the USB cord into the spacer. At this point, you're almost done! I attached the shield cable from the USB wire to one of the attachment bolts: And the last thing is to padden and insulate the Bodnar board inside the spacer. I wrapped it all up in a generous amount of electrical tape, before bolting it all together. Here you go: And then bolted it all together. Be sure to get the alignment right on the quick release. You want the slot facing directly up at the 12 o'clock position. And there you go! You use the Fanaleds software to control the button box, display, and vibration functions. Works like a charm! You've got full plug-n-play with your Fanatec wheels, and can swap rims between your OSW box and your Fanatec bases with ease. Hope this helps, let me know if you need anymore assistance in the comments. Edit: it turns out, the 30mm spacer also just (barely) fits in this application. If you want a shorter length steering column, this is the way to go. I upated my rig, and in my application (R-Seat N-1), it aligns my shifter and handbrake mounts very nicely. (still waiting on my HPP pedals to complete my rig)
  11. 2 points

    Open Sim Racing Store - Now open

    Well if you keep me updated on price/ availability i would purchase 5 sets if the price is right.
  12. 2 points

    Open Sim Racing Store - Now open

    I can't wait to try these out!!! I knew these would be a hot item for Logitech users. Thanks again Steve for helping me out on getting these made.
  13. 2 points

    SOLD: Thrustmaster TX + rims

    28mm rim? The torque on that thing must be amazing!
  14. 2 points
    In short, yes. It's not just absolute force. It's the clarity, speed, and resolution. I can feel various road surfaces with my DD wheel. I get such clear, fast, small changes its uncanny. For example, the AC Monza course has a repaved section on the back straight prior to the parabolica. My DD wheel feels this surface very distinctly compared to the rest of the track. It's unreal. DD is more about clarity and resolution than brute force.
  15. 2 points

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    This no tarmac week, between the Racenet service disruption and the shoulder pain I was really ON/OFF and while Spriggsy becoming for me unbeatable in every stages i had to keep up with the fin Mike that in several occasion set some times hard to beat. Nice to see all this improvements. Here is the top 10 and next week i am thinking WRC ONLY.. and maybe same car all the way and is not going to be the mini that i really hate!
  16. 2 points
    Hmm, I updated the pictures. I may have used a Google Photos url for one of them, could be why it didn't work. Anyways, not much too see here yet I'm afraid, only a picture of the gear laid out on the floor... still very early in the building process. I'm waiting for my first batch of motedis profiles to get here so I can get started on the actual building part of this. Can't really say the design will be very special either, as I said the plan is to have a base of 80x40 and from that two vertical 120x40 profiles to which the CSW and monitor mount to. It's pretty much an adaption of the old Minimalist rig from opensimbuilds, in fact I was going to build one of those first but then I found the sim-lab.eu dashboard bracket and decided to make my own version of the rig. I'm still not sure on how I will mount the pedals or the seat so that's why I'm ordering in two batches, well honestly I haven't decided on a seat yet... I do like the look of the Autostyle BS6 so I might have to sacrifice my wallet some more even though I had originally planned to get a cheap car seat. What I have done though, as you can see from the OP, is paint the buttons on the bmw rim black. "Because racecar" reasons aside I don't really have much use for the colour coding so I thought I'd paint them black for a simpler look. And I have to say I'm really happy with how it looks all blacked out, looks a lot better than it did before If you ask me
  17. 2 points

    Thrustmaster TX not centering after calibration

    This is an older thread but still comes up at the top of searches, so dropping a note here. There shouldn't be a need to return this wheel if it's not centering out of the box. It can be calibrated manually to the center. Details are in the user manual section of the support site for the wheel: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00157.pdf
  18. 2 points

    The Crew - Force FeedBack Extra Tuning PC Version

    I just found this information about FFB for the PC version of The Crew by one of the devs; I haven't looked at this yet closely, but I though I shared it with you guys; maybe we can make some improvements... WHEEL GUIDE - Force FeedBack Extra Tuning PC Version The Force FeedBack is mainly computed from the Torque Alignment from Physics. This guide is meant for wheel users on PC that are looking for extra configuration settings. The Crew Team Editing In ‘my Documents\The Crew’ folder, edit or create file ExtraConfig.xml. Between the <ExtracConfig /> XML tag add those lines FFB_Factor="1.5f" FFB_LoadFactor="1.0f" FFB_LoadPower="1.5f" FFB_LatFactor="1.0f" FFB_SlipAngleFactor="2.0f" FFB_CamberFactor="0.1f" FFB_CamberOffset="2.5f" FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f" FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f" FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f" FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f" FFB_WaitRate="5" FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f" If the file was empty it should look like this <ExtraConfig FFB_Factor="1.5f" FFB_LoadFactor="1.0f" FFB_LoadPower="1.5f" FFB_LatFactor="1.0f" FFB_SlipAngleFactor="2.0f" FFB_CamberFactor="0.1f" FFB_CamberOffset="2.5f" FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f" FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f" FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f" FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f" FFB_WaitRate="1" FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f" /> Explanations FFB is computed from the tire physics, the tire physics compute 4 things, Lateral Forces Longitudinal Forces Vertical Forces Torque Alignment The FFB is mainly computed from the Torque Alignment from Physics Sadly most consumer FFB wheel on the market are not strong enough to have a decent feeling only from this. That’s why I added extra configuration to “increase” some components of the FFB computation. There’s 4 components in the FFB : Tire Load Tire Slip Angle Tire Camber Static Damping Global Params You can tune the global gain with FFB_Factor="1.5f" // default value is 1.5 It’s working exactly like the in game FFB Gain slider You can configure the refresh rate with FFB_WaitRate=”1” Tire physics is refreshed at 300hz, so a rate of 1 will update the FFB at 300hz too, a rate of 2 with refresh at 150hz. etc.. Some FFB driver can’t handle hight refresh rate, if you experience frame rate issue with FFB wheel, increase this value to reduce the Refresh Rate. U.I. / Cinematics / Map spring effect. FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f" When you don’t have control of the car, a basic spring effect is applied, it’s removed when you drive. You can control the Spring force with this param. Tire Load Config Tire load, is how much weight there’s on the tire, the weight of the car is pushing on the tire. Front Tire load is increasing when the car is braking, when there’s bumps, or compression from the begining of a slope, it’s decreasing when car is accelerating, when there’s holes, and it’s zero when the car is in air. The more load on the front tire the more stronger is the FFB. FFB_LoadFactor="1.0f" FFB_LoadPower="1.5f" Load Factor is the gain apply to FFB from the Load. With Load Power you can change the curve of the variation Pseudo formula FFBLoad = FrontTireLoad * LoadFactor ^ LoadPower Load Power may be a bit complicated to undestand, so here to example of curves Tire Slip Angle When the car is moving and you turn the steering wheel, you change the front tire angle and so increase the tire slip angle, which create a lateral force , and a tire torque alignment. The more you turn the wheel the stronger the FFB. FFB_LatFactor="1.0f" FFB_SlipAngleFactor="2.0f" LatFactor is the gain of the FFB part from the torque alignement. SlipAngleFactor is the factor applied to the slip angle for the FFB computation, if you increase this value the FFB will increase faster for smaller slip angle, which will make the FFB feel “tighter”. Tire Camber When the car is moving, if the tire lean left or right, the angle with the surface is called the camber, the more camber , the more lateral force and torque alignement and so the stronger the FFB. Camber is symetrical between the left and right tire, means that if the left tire is leaning to the right, the right tire is leaning to the left Otherwise the car would not drive straight. So on a flat straight line, FFB from camber of left and right tire are cancels each other. When 1 tire drive on a bump/hole, it’s change the camber on this tire, which create an asymetric value in the torque alignment between left and right tire, which create a force in the FFB. In summary with this params you can control how much you will feel bumps and holes. FFB_CamberOffset="2.5f" FFB_CamberFactor="0.1f" Camber Offset is to add extra camber to the real value of front tire. Camber Factor is the gain of this extra camber. Tire Damper The whole steering components from tire , steering rack , and steering shaft, have frictions and damping. With this params you can control that. Damping is a force that acting against the motion on the steering wheel. So if you turn slowly the wheel to the left you will have a slow FFB force to the right, If you turn fast to the left, the FFB will give a stronger force to the right. There’s 2 damping force, static damping, and rolling damping. FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f" FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f" FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f" FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f" Damper Factor is the gain of this params. DamperMaxRoll is the max wheel rotatation in rad/s at which the static damping is minimum. DamperMaxRollVal is the value of the damping when wheel is rolling. DamperMaxSlipAngle is the slip angle value at wich the damping is zero. Samples High Torque Wheels Default params give too much FFB on dirt because of the bumps. Here a base for them ( I have a RFR High Torque Custom Wheel 14Nm ) LoadPower is set to 1 to have pure linear FFB Camber effect is greatly reduced LatFactor is increased. <ExtraConfig FFB_Factor="1.5f" FFB_LoadFactor="1.0f" FFB_LoadPower="1.0f" FFB_CamberFactor="0.1f" FFB_CamberOffset="0.5f" FFB_SlipAngleFactor="2.0f" FFB_LatFactor="2.0f" FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f" FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f" FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f" FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f" FFB_WaitRate="5" FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f" />
  19. 1 point

    DSD Hydraulic Handbrake DIY Project

    yes. the upper is locked like i wrote but on the lower i just must work. i added a m10 washer with 2mm but its to wide. have to buy a m10 washer with 0.5mm width that i can figure it out... and befor i forgot i screwed the master cylinder on the upper hole with a longer screw tight. now it dont seesaw and it improves the feeling too! just do the mods ive wrote. its a good start to get a more stable feel of the brake. will keep you uptodate
  20. 1 point

    Vesar vs Rseat N1

    I upgraded to an RSeat N1 Alcantara (from the RS-1). Very happy with it. It's rock solid; I'm running an OSW wheel and no issues. Pedal deck is also very stiff, works great for hyrdraulic pedals. I've also found it quite adaptable. Mine has lots of addons including a motion platform, sequential shifter mount, dashboard, and handbrake/gated shifter. I installed it all with various RSeat parts and a bit of custom work. Here's a few pics, FYI.
  21. 1 point

    Fanatec CSW V2.5 and Iracing problems

    Thanks a lot those settings feel a lot better and gives me a good starting point.
  22. 1 point

    Ts-pc NOT WORKING $230

    FYI I have a dead TS-PC as well that I have sent back to Thrustmaster for replacement. Initially replaced the power supply which worked for a few days before the base would no longer power up again . Apparently something in the base was causing the power supply to die.
  23. 1 point

    Off the shelf PC

    The question you have to ask yourself first is what kind of visuals are you wanting...... Single 1080P screen, triple screens or VR (Virtual Reality), the reason I say this, with each step I listed, you need that much more power to run, especially the video card (GPU) will need to be fairly beefy to run Triple screens and VR, if a single screen, then a lesser video card can do the trick. You'll also want a decently fast CPU (processor) and at least 8 gig's of Ram (16 would be better especially if running in VR). Agreed with the above comments, most chain store boxed computers are more aimed at general family computing (web browsing, emails, watching YouTube and so on) Look around your general area and see if there are any computer stores that build their own system, this way you can walk in there, tell them what you want, what budget you have and they will make suggestions and build you a computer to YOUR specs with the components you want. Do not skimp on Power Supply, motherboard, memory and video card quality to save a few bucks, buying decent quality components will pay off in the long run by the system running stable for you. Take care Regards: >>>> Jack <<<<
  24. 1 point
    MAD Mouse

    Off the shelf PC

    I'm a former dirt tracker and recently ran some laps on a friends iracing sim. Now I'm looking to set up my own. I know nothing about computers so please don't respond with u can build one. Looking for an off the shelf pc that meets iracing specs from a big box store(Best Buy , Walmart ) whatever one I can go and get at the store. Any suggestions would be great.
  25. 1 point

    Simvibe equipment?

    I am using Aura Bass Shakers with Dayton Amplifiers. Parts Express have some packages you can buy or search google for the individual parts. Should give you an alternative to buttkickers. https://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=dayton apa150&sitesearch=true
  26. 1 point

    Open Sim Racing Store - Now open

    for me i dont think its just logitech wheel users i have kept a couple of sets of logi pedals which i use stand alone, will the clutch and throttle spring set kits be available also.
  27. 1 point

    Open Sim Racing Store - Now open

    Just checking your website your doing some really nice bits, can you tell me is there a ETA on the logitech pedal conversion kit best proposed mod i have seen in a long time.
  28. 1 point
    Gentlemen....it has arrived! The program I've *PERSONALLY* been waiting ages for!!!!!!!!!! I would like to introduce you to the new version of GIMX!! Here is GIMX's homepage: http://blog.gimx.fr/ GIMX just released a new version! This is a program that normally allows you to emulate a Logitech G27 wheel on a Playstation 3 or 4, but now there is a new version that allows you emulate them using ANY steering wheel or usb device, not just on PS4 but now the PC! That's right...you can play Forza Horizon 3 using **ANY** steering wheel you want, and the game will think you're using a Logitech G27! Here's how it works.... Using two windows machines, one acting as one big controller "hub", you can connect all your devices to that machine and emulate a G27 using one PC as the "Target PC" and the other PC as the "Controller Hub", if you will. GIMX will now essentially turn ANY set of multiple of USB controllers into a "Virtual G27"!! In my specific case, I am using the following controllers: Leo Bodnar wheel HPP PRX Pedals DSD RaceKing Button Box Manu Factory Shifter Fanatec CSS Shifter Sony DualShock 4 GIMX turns all of these devices into one "Virtual G27" and every game that previously gave me trouble because it either doesn't recognize my Bodnar wheel properly or has issues with multiple controllers connected, is now working flawlessly! What I love about GIMX is the fact that by using two PC's, it means that one acts as a controller hub..... which means your gaming PC only needs ONE USB connection, and sees the other PC(the one with all your USB devices) as *ONE* Logitech G27 wheel. No more messing around with games that don't work properly with multiple USB devices. Now I have, for all intents and purposes, a G27, that's customize-able to MY liking, and I can combine as many controllers as I want and map any button or axis to ANY function on the "Virtual G27" that I want. And in case you're wondering, yes it delivers *TRUE* force feedback effects with no...and I mean ZERO lag!!! All FFB effects work and are delivered to my Bodnar wheel with the same clarity and detail as the "raw" FFB signal directly to the Bodnar. Matlo(GIMX author) has JUST decided to make this Virtual G27 firmware available to the public and posted it on his forum. If you want to use GIMX here is what you'll need: 1)An extra windows machine. Doesn't matter how weak or powerful the PC is. I picked up an old crappy HP Probook on ebay for $100 last week specifically for this purpose and it works perfectly! Just make sure it has USB 2.0 ports. 2)A GIMX adapter. You can build your own or order one from here: http://www.steve-marton.com/gimx/?product=diy-usb-adapter-for-gimx And yes, I know it says ".....on PS4", but this new firmware is custom and designed specifically for windows. 3)The firmware: available here.... https://github.com/matlo/GIMX-firmwares/releases . Scroll down to version 5.8.zip That's pretty much it guys. I know most people on here already own Logitech G25 or G27 wheels so this probably won't really interest you. GIMX is for people like me who fall into the following categories: 1)Owners of wheels and hardware that fall into the "niche" category such OSWs, Accuforce, Bodnars, etc that want to play games that don't support them or have very poor support for these controllers(*cough*basicallyAllcodemastersgames*cough*cough*). 2)Those with Fanatec wheels, or other unsupported wheels wanting to play Forza Horizon 3 on PC, 3)Those with Fanatec wheels or want to use them on the PS4(yes this actually works, people!). 4)Those who uses multiple devices simultaneously, who play games that bitch about, well... multiple devices For us this application is a GODSEND because it combines all your devices into one, and you map anything you want to ANY button or axis on your G27!! No fuss, no muss!! Give it a try guys. It's something I've been beta testing with Matlo for a while we feel it's now far along enough to make it available for the masses. This is something you will NOT see from the makers of ChronusMax(at least not any time soon).
  29. 1 point

    Which Triple monitor

    Hi, I'm a "lowest input lag" maniac, I would recommend something with 1-2ms response time. As I saw the monitors you mentioned have higher rt than 5 ms. But it depends on your priorities. 0,005 s might seem not much, but if I calculated right, with a speed of 300 kmh it means 40cm. In Eau Rouge with an F1 car this 40 cm can "save your life". For me the second important thing would be the thin bezel. Best regards!
  30. 1 point

    ***Sold** Complete Sim Racing Rig

    I baught the rig. I rode up to VA. Jose is an awesome guy. This rig absolutely rocks. It was a pleasure meeting and doing business with Jose. Hope we meet again some day.
  31. 1 point

    Looking for Zandvoort....

    Assetto Corsa
  32. 1 point
    Starting with me: I have Oculus Rift CV1 (DK2 also), use for work Vive and on PS4 PSVR. I love my CV1 and the awesome touch controlers. My Fav games are - Space Pirate Trainer, Robo recall, Eve Valkyrie , Dead and Burried The topic is more for non racing experience. For the racing titles we have plenty topics here;)
  33. 1 point

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    No M8 i am still one piece but the absence is somehow bike related.. this commuting is really draining my energies and the only thing i want to do once home is shower, eat ,relax on the sofa, play 3 minutes with the kitten and BED! I promise to be back asap I am sure i will get stronger and used tho this new efforts!
  34. 1 point

    Worth Upgrading to T300 from T150?

    Hello, T300 is significant upgrade from T150. But you can skip T300 ofcourse - waiting for even bigger jump. I didnt see even 1 hint that TM will produce direct drive wheel. But they will release Grant Turismo wheel something similat to TS-PC,But Playstation compatible and with different rim ofrcourse. I will advice to wait for it!
  35. 1 point

    Recomended Sellers

    I bought a Fanatec Universal Hub from Makman43 and he was fast, courteous, fair priced, and friendly. Full a+ recommendation!
  36. 1 point
    You may want to give a look at this site. The following durometers are offered: 95A / Amber 90A / Red 80A / Green 70A / Blue 60A / Natural https://www.asraymond.com/composite-springs.html
  37. 1 point

    Wheel at 900-1500$ Range

    OSW SimuCube DIY This is about as good as it gets for the basic system cost unless you can find a deal on a used one. Another option is the SimXperience AccuForce DIY for about the same cost but, in either case, you need to add a wheel and button-box / shifters, etc., and it's going to put you very near the top of your budget. The OSW has the torque advantage but, the AF is perhaps the more versatile system for tuning FFB with various titles.
  38. 1 point
    Kranky Pantz

    Pimax VR

    Nope, I just leave both USB's connected, then press the button on the switch. Once that switch is pressed, it kills the HDMI signal to the other HMDI, which in turn renders the USB signal for it moot. USB 3.0 for the Oculus, and USB 2,0 for the Vive since that's all it requires. It's been working flawlessly. I'm really excited to receive the Touch controllers from Oculus this week, should arrive on May 4th. Pretty sure I'm gonna order a 3rd Oculus sensor/camera as you have suggested, most likely just order an other Touch bundle so I have extra controllers. Might as well take advantage of these cheap all-in prices from the Oculus Store before that dumb@ss Trump decides to f**k with NAFTA, LOL!!!!!! Hmmmmm.....maybe order a 4th camera to complete the setup before N. Korea nukes us West Coaster's. Can I please just live in VR, where everyone just loves each other?????
  39. 1 point
    Kranky Pantz

    Pimax VR

    Actually Krassi, I have been switching between both the Oculus & Vive on one PC using this device: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00LFX1UDM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It works flawlessly, and it is what I was using to A/B the Oculus vs Vive when I was making my decision for which one to keep. As it stands now, there is no "vs" for me any longer, as I am now using it as a switch between the two, since Amazon offered the Vive to me for an unbeatable price.....magnificent!!!! CaTaPulT, I strongly suggest that you order one of these $17 switchers from Amazon, and be able to freely switch between your Vive & Pimax using a single HDMI port. Might be time to unbox it and re-discover that 4K option again. I was using it for the Vive & CV-1, and will continue to do so now since I officially own both HMD's. Let me know if you require any assistance in configuring your particular setup. VR....it's all about looking into the apex when approaching those corners. Even at lower resolutions there is no denying how much closer it is to real life driving than simple single 2D screens, or even triples. When I put on on my VR HMD, it's pretty much like "Yup....looks like when I'm just getting in my car and going to get groceries.......hey.....what's in my glove box?......Ooooooo.....hey there......wanna race?????" VR on brothers!!!!!!
  40. 1 point

    Wheel at 900-1500$ Range

    CSW with those two rims might be your best option. I'm really looking forward to getting my OSW kit, but I have to admit the part that really makes the price jump is the wheel rims. A basic wheel rim can be anywhere from $100-250, but that's a plain rim with nothing on it (I just paid ~$220USD for my Momo Mod 30 rim). It really starts to add up when you look at adding button plates and paddle shifters and such. An option is to buy Fanatec rims, and then use the Bodnar kit... adds about $100-150 USD per unit you convert (need the USB kit, plus the quick release adapter).
  41. 1 point


    Need that [Hoon] button. Who cares what it does... we just need it.
  42. 1 point

    WTB: Fanatec Wheel-Side Quick Releases

    Yes, exactly why I bought 6 from them, already had 4 on existing hubs and rims, so 10 almost permanently mounted wheels total now
  43. 1 point

    Pimax VR

    Hi Krassi. The program that lets Occulus and Vive be interchangeable is "Revive"..... it can also let you use the Vive Controllers as Oculus Touch controllers (you just have to learn what buttons do what on the Vive controllers), it'll take software downloaded from the Oculus Home website and create shortcuts in your Steam library since if you try running a program right from the Oculus Home site with a Vive, it'll ask if you want to configure your Rift or your Touch Controllers. Revive is amazing at what it does, they just did a update to it this week, works well. Take care Regards: >>>> Jack <<<<
  44. 1 point

    GeniFx build logg. Now diy 80/20

    Hey i was thinking of shearing my simracing stort with you all. Everything startet desember 2015 when i did buy a Obutto revolution. I did have a g25 from before and played sims from time to time but it never got me hooked on simracing since it was boring to rig it up and down on the desk. So i got my Obutto and then every thing started. Within a month i got a t500 used and did buy a Thrustmaster gear shifter and did order 2 more 27" 1440p monitors to Get my tripples going. And AS im in love with the diy stuff i made my self a Hydraulic handbrake Aswell. From her things started to Get out of hand. 🙄 June 2016 i recived my first big upgrade. Ionicube with a small mige from simracingbay got in house with quick releases and 1 momo mod 27 and a omp targa and it Wasent long before i started to miss padle shifters so i ordered a par from asher racing. I was still using my t500 pedal with a brake mod. I did put my self on the waiting list for the protosimtec pt1 in januar and that came up aswell 15 days after i recived my osw so i culdent let it go so i made the order aswell Got every thing up and running and started to notis the Obutto had some flex and whanted a wheel plate aswell. So i contacted brett and HRS. And he did make a custume plate for my momo wheel after my wishes. And have to say he made every thing i whanted. what Brett send me. Realy good quality. this was how it turned out when i was done with it. Asher racing paddle shifters, Leo bodnar sli-pro NKK buttons and cts encoders. The custume plate from brett i laser engraved aswell. Was happy now but the flex in the Obutto started to geting on my nerv. But the opertunety came up some month's ago when i friend whanted a rig. He did buy my Obutto so i started to order for my new rig. This did show it was going to take time. 5 weeks turn around to Get my new Seat. And alot og back and farward with the aluminium extrution. But after alot of time every thing got her and i started to mount. did recive my Seat aswell after 5 week. But ofc it was damage in shipping. But the seller did say he was going to make me a new on. Still waiting for it. and ofc did the youngest daughter have to test it out. And dident have space in the new rig for bothe my sequensial shifter and Thrustmaster h shifter so i did order a fanatec css. starting to Get somewhere now. Still miss to mount my new suround system. Logitec z906. Missing some profiles that i need to cut and make my keyboard tray aswell as the amps for my simwibe. Have hade some other project going aswell that havet Get done or atleast used yet go a 3D printer so have made iflag and ifuel they are done but havent had the time to test them aswell AS a buttonbox Hope this dident get to long Spec list : Osw ionipro with small mige momo mod 27 with custum sli plate omp targa Protosimtec Pt1 fanatec CSS. Diy Hydraulic handbrake 3x 27" 1440p monitors 4x sinustec bs250 bassshakers i5 4690k, gtx 1080. And a big Thank you to Phill Barry at the iracing forum to share build plans with me that i used alot of and made some change to . Thank you for reading
  45. 1 point

    Pimax VR

    Going with Vive is not a wrong choice. Both Vive and Oculus are great headsets. If I own personal Vive - will not sell it to buy Oculus. As I said I use Vive for my work. At home I have Oculus. Vive is better when I do VR zones for work , because the sensors are wireless and need only power. This fact gives me a lot of freedom. Hands down sensors on Vive are better. Oculus have much better touch controllers.Maybe if someone ask me which one from both to buy - I will say Oculus, because of the superb deal that they give now. Its absolute steal 599 for bundle with touch controllers.
  46. 1 point

    Pimax VR

    So far I've been messing around some with non racing titles and in that respect, I have no regrets of going with the Vive, mind you, I've never tried a Oculus, it maybe just as good if not better, my only other VR experience was with the Pimax. The tracking for the Vive is incredible, I have it set for standing or sitting and it is rock solid when sitting in my cockpit or standing behind the cockpit. I had tried doing the room scaling but at this time, I don't have enough room in my play area until I move a few things out and make enough room. I am very much enjoying the VR experience other than for racing (pCars and AC), for me, the SDE is annoying and so is the lower resolution, so I might go back to triple monitors for racing. The other thing I was thinking last night are the current racing titles had VR patched in as a after thought and the sim wasn't originally designed for VR. Once we get a sim that has VR implemented from the ground up during development, it may be even better. I'm looking forward to seeing how well they will implement VR for rFactor 2, I believe that patch may be coming out in May. I just ordered lens protectors which are actual lens inserts as compared to a plastic film that stick to the lenses (I tried these and they didn't work very well, huge air bubbles that I couldn't get out), here's a link to the lens inserts I ordered, you can also get these as prescription inserts....... Lens-Lab I'm anxious to get these to try them not to mention to protect my Vive's lenses. They make them for the Vive, Oculus and PSVR. Take care Regards: >>>> Jack <<<<
  47. 1 point

    Sebj's 80/20 Motion Chassis - Work in Progress

    Base of motion platform almost fully complete. Waiting on some hardware for the wheel assembly portion. I'll be putting the seat portion together first and will post pics. Need to paint the universal joint, took some time to sand it and clean it up. Should have OSW up and running this week. I will post pics when temporarily mounted on my wooden rig...using a vice Crude but should be effective.
  48. 1 point

    Off the shelf PC

    Also take a look at the systems by BL https://www.facebook.com/BLSimRacingSolutions/ He has built many systems for iracing and other sims. Lots of pictures on there site of the systems they build and can fit most budgets. Also,. please be sure to ask any custom pc builder to send you pictures of the system with the case open. This will give you an idea on the quality of work. I am not in any way related to BL Sim Racing Solutions.
  49. 1 point

    Off the shelf PC

    Most off the shelf PCs won't have enough GPU power to make a really good Sim desktop. It's just not what they're designed for. I'd suggest checking out one of the custom gaming PC manufacturers that are out there like us. We actually build lots of iRacing systems and can do it at just about any budget. We're the exclusive PC provider for Sim Seats too. http://www.velocitymicro.com/gaming-pc.php
  50. 1 point
    Mark Spruell

    Important to isolate vibrations?

    Isolate, isolate, isolate. In a rig like that you aren't going to get vibrations going from one end to the other unless you really want them (and use 4 big transducers to do it). Isolation keeps the vibes where you really can feel them. 1) I have two transducers in extension mode, one under the seat the other under the pedals. By all means isolate the seat to concentrate the vibrations there. In your rig (in particular) you aren't going to get seat vibes going anywhere useful anyway. 2) I have the large Buttkicker LFE Concert and no vibrations reach my monitors. If you go with 4 LFE's (in chassis mode) you may get vibrations going to the monitors, but you could also isolate the monitors (and I would in that scenario). 3) I don't have chassis mode so I can't comment on that one.