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      ISRTV Amazon Store   11/29/16

      Hi All, We created an Amazon store that's pretty basic and currently only for U.S. shoppers. If you purchase something from it and then other items through Amazon, we make a small commission. It won't cost anymore than Amazon normally does but will help support our show and website and would be greatly appreciated ! You can get to it by going here : http://www.isrtv.com/isrtv-amazon-store/ Thank for your support !

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/27/17 in all areas

  1. 15 points
    SpaceHedgehog

    Show your cockpit 2015!

    A gallery thread is a very good idea. Here's mine ... - Fanatec CSW v1 - Fanatec CSP v2 with DSD Tilton pads - Fanatec CSS SQ v1 - DIY Rig - Hacked DSD button box - Android phone running DashmeterPro - Ultrawide monitor - Sparco Sprint seat - 4 Mini LFEs with Simvibe ... and the most important bits: - Fire extinguisher - Seat belt - Tow hook Rig pictures: Seat on side mounts and seat runners: Real carbon fibre dash: LED lights and tow hook: Shifter pod with extinguisher: : DashmeterPro on custom mount: And an accessory to many a motorsport pile-up, me ... Video tour:
  2. 12 points
    Inside Sim Racing and Thrustmaster are giving you an opportunity to win the ultimate Thrustmaster Sim Racing package for the PC. You have a chance to win the new Thrustmaster TS-PC Racer and a set of T3PA Pro pedals, a prize package worth almost $700! The TS-PC Racer is a powerhouse of technologies created to enhance gaming performance and offer a racing experience closer to reality, enabling gamers to be fully immersed. Thrustmaster TS-PC Servo base is ECOSYSTEM-READY. Retail value: $500.00 The T3PA-Pro realistic, high end 3-PEDAL set offers 2 different positions (floor-mounted or suspended) 100% metal and 100% adjustable and includes 2 different removable brake modifications. (Spring Brake Mod + Conical Rubber Brake Mod). Retail value: $150.00 To win, you'll need to be a member of the forums at http://www.isrtv.com/forums and then email us at contest@insidesimracing.tv with this information: Real Name: Location (Country / State / City): You also need to answer these four questions correctly: 1) What’s material is used on the TS-PC racers open wheel grip? 2) What’s the shape of the external turbo power supply? 3) How many watts in the brushless motor? 4) What does F.O.C. stand for in relation to the TS-PC Racer? ONE ENTRY PER EMAIL ADDRESS / FORUM MEMBER Deadline for entry is February 28th 2017. The person that has submitted their name and location and answered all four questions correctly will be chosen at random and notified via email and announced on the March 1st edition of This Week Inside Sim Racing. Tune in live to see if you won this great sim racing package from Thrustmaster. You must email contest@insidesimracing.tv to enter.
  3. 11 points
    So I figured it was about time that I posted a build thread on my rig. Some of you may already know my rig in it's previous form. Over the last few months I have been busy upgrading my rig and this is it's current state. Here is a video of my motion rig and Accuforce in action. First up I will explain what is on my rig and then I will then I will go on to how I built all this. My rig started off life as a GT Omega Evo cockpit, there isn't much left of it now, just the front section. I am running an eight transducer SimVibe setup in both chassis mode and Extension mode. I am using 5 x Buttkicker Mini LFE SE's, 2 x Aura's and a Buttkicker advance. These are powered by three Kool Sound LX-2450 which are 2 channel 450W RMS per channel amplifiers and Buttkicker 300W amp for the Buttkicker advance. The rest of my audio is a Logitech 5.1 Z906 system. I am running my onboard audio plus a Sound Blaster Audigy and a Sound Blaster Z. My monitors are 3x Asus 27" MX279H IPS monitors and 1 HP 24" monitor, I also sometimes run TrackIR. My PC Specs are Intel i7 3770k 3.5GHz 32GB RAM Nvidia Geforce GTX 980 512GB SSD + 2x 1TB RAID 1 HDD The pedals I am using are DSD Wilwood pedals. I really like these pedals. They have a pretty heavy brake pedal but not as heavy as the HPP's I have tried. I also use quite a few other DSD products like the sequential shifter and handbrake, I used to also use 2 DSD CSW button boxes back when I was using my old CSW. I currently don't have my handbrake and shifter hooked up because I had to redesign my frame for my motion. I also have a DIY Digital handbrake that I use for games that don't support my analog DSD handbrake. For my H-pattern shifting I use a Fanatec CSS SQ shifter. You can see some of my transducers in this shot also. I do like my gauges and displays a lot. This was on my old setup before I got my Accuforce but I am going to be designing a new and better dashboard to mount everything in soon. I am using a SymProjects Pro-Gauge and Rev Burner to run my gauges. The gauges are AutoGauge brand. I also run a pair of SymProject SimScreens in a custom carbon fibre SimRacingHardware mount. And a SimInstruments Dash Here is a POV video of all my gauges from before I started my motion project. For my seat I use a SimXperience GS-4 6DOF motion seat. This thing is so amazing. I am glad I got mine when I did because they have stopped making them for a while because of the Accuforce. I wouldn't trade this for the world. I ran for ages on just this before upgrading to full motion. This works awesomely with the rest of my motion. I also use a 6 point NZKW harness, this really helps on a motion rig and I would run motion without a set of harnesses. The wheel I am using is a SimXperience Accuforce wheel. I was lucky enough to be a beta tester for the Accuforce and OMG is this ever a game changer when it comes to steering wheels. I could wax lyrically about this all night so I will just post a link to my review, http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/16563-avenga76s-simxperience-accuforce-review/ If you have any questions about the Accuforce then feel free to ask. My motion simulator is a DIY 2 DOF seat mover. I am a big lad so I designed everything super strong. I went away from the normal motion builds and opted for some more powerful 50:1 ratio worm drive motor. To cope with the extra power required I went with a battery and charger setup. All the fabrication was done by the same guys who build my classic and race races, Bygone Autos. And the Electronics was done by one of my friends who is an electrical engineer. I had a lot of great input and advice from MotionDave and NickMoxley. I do have some build photos from the early days of my rig but they are a bit irrelevant now so I will jump right up to the point where I started my motion upgrade. If you do want to see some of my early photos you can see them here. http://s871.photobucket.com/user/avenga76/library/Racing%20rig So as you can see, somewhere along the way something went horribly horribly wrong and I got addicted to build what I see as my ultimate sim racing rig. I am starting to get pretty close. Still a few things to finish off and a few more things on my wish list. Anyways. I am sure some of you are keen to see how I built my motion simulator so grab some popcorn and enjoy the read. Warning I will be posting a lot of posts and pictures RIP 56K modems (Remember when Dialup was a thing?)
  4. 9 points
    PlatinumDan

    80/20 Rig with 2DOF Motion and Traction Loss

    80/20 Rig with 2DOF Motion & Traction Loss Updated my static 80/20 rig to incorporate SimXperience's universal seat kit and 150mm SCN5 actuators. The base is 2100mm x 780mm and all in 40 series profile. If you recall, this is my old rig: http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/14202-8020-rig/ The final result uses numerous ideas from various other rig designs on this forum and others. I want to give credit to the following people/sites for my rig: Robert Reidel of www.konsolenracer.de Henning Piez/Ensonic that created this amazing rig as I blantantly copied his tilt/telescoping steering wheel mount. Tino Goergens and his rig. Faro06's rig. Anonymous rig Results: Transfer bearings: Lazy Susan Bearing: Base (2100mm x 780mm): Traction loss base: SimXperience Universal Joint: Dampening bar isolators: Dampening bar with actuators and seat base: Adjustable foot pedal mount: Seat mounted on base: Tilt and telescoping wheel mount: Wheel mount range of adjustment: My favorite - Cup holder: Update with 40" 4K Vizio TVs and Energy Micro RC speakers: I still have to wire everything up and configure the software. I'll post a video of it in motion soon. Dan
  5. 6 points
    Hi All, Here is my DIY-ish! aluminium profile take on a SimX Stage 4 series, 3DOF (traction loss). I have built it to Porsche Martini Racing colors. I tried to upload the core plans for the rig in MS Word but couldn't upload it, if anyone wants them please let me know.
  6. 6 points
    Today we will be looking at Fanatec’s ClubSport v3 pedals. Fanatec has built up a strong following by producing a range of popular performance orientated sim racing hardware. I am looking forward to reviewing my first Fanatec product and finding out if these pedals live up to the reputation that precedes them. After meeting Thomas Jackermeier (the founder of Fanatec), at last year’s Sim Racing Expo in Germany, I was able to secure a set of the latest version of Fanatec’s sim racing pedals, including the optional v3 Damper Kits to review for you guys. These pedals are a logical evolution of the Club Sport range of sim racing pedals which are widely touted throughout the sim racing community. Packaging and Presentation Immediately apparent is the packaging and presentation of these pedals, which has been thoughtfully planned and executed. Fanatec owners are treated to a very nice unboxing experience as the flaps are lifted to reveal their dust bag protected sim racing pedals. So What’s In The Box, Mate? Unboxing the v3s, the message that greets you as you open the flaps is as follows, ‘’The difference’’ ‘’Is that little ‘extra’ ‘’ ‘’Between ordinary and extraordinary.’’ A nice little marketing detail and at the same time, you could say, a Fanatec mission statement! The contents of the box are depicted in the top left hand image you see here. Beginning on the left, the v3s themselves, three pedal extensions and racing style pedal faces, a set of harder throttle and clutch springs, two cables (one USB and one RJ12), mounting screws, printed quick guide and lastly a small bottle of lubricating oil for maintenance purposes. Also pictured, but not included, are the optional extra brake and throttle damper kits. More on these later. Hard Mounting The V3s To The Playseat® Sensation Pro Sim Rig I get straight to work on mounting these preassembled pedals to the sim rig (The Playseat® Sensation Pro)! I removed all three pedal extensions from their respective packaging and went about replacing the standard flat aluminium pedal faces for these racier looking alternatives. This task is a little fiddly because of the room constraints available to me to work with, as well as the size of my fingers. Removing the pedal faces also means carefully removing the small FFB motors at the rear of the throttle and brake pedals, reattaching them once the extensions are in place. I say carefully, because the motors are connected to the ECU with very fine wires, I didn't want to stress test the soldering to find out how much they could withstand. Having done this, when I go to mount the v3 damper kits to both throttle and brake pedals, I will have to remove and reattach the motors once again. Mounting the v3s to the Sensation Pro, I had to adjust a few parameters on the rig’s mounting plate in order to have the pedals at the correct angle and distance for my seating position (GT, that is, mate!) Basically, it is four bolts in the Sensation Pro’s pre-drilled mounting plate and the v3s are then securely attached to the rig. A tip here, is to remember to attach the cables you are going to use to connect to your PC and / or wheelbase prior to hard mounting the pedals. In my case, there was no room to access these ports once mounted, although, the heel plate is removable to allow access to the ECU. I don't own a Fanatec wheelbase, so it was just the one USB cable that was required for connecting to my PC. Installing Fanatec's Software And Updating The Firmware Before use, the v3s must first undergo a firmware update process which can be accessed after installing the drivers for your system (64 or 32bit). The drivers can be downloaded from Fanatec’s website. Once installed, you can open the the software via the desktop link, finding the Fanatec pedals in the list of USB connected peripherals that appears in the small window. Then double click on the Club Sport Pedals v3, which opens the main software window. Navigate to the update tab, clicking on it takes you to the firmware updater window. Wait for the pedals to be recognised and appear in the ‘’Message Logs’’ pane, lastly clicking on the large start button and waiting for it to do its thing. At the end of the process, you will see the message ‘’CSP v3 firmware update completed successfully.’’ The pedals are now ready for use in any title. You also have a choice between auto and manual calibration for the pedals. Manual calibration gives you the freedom to set a minimum and maximum value for all three pedals. In my case, the pedals were only attached to the PC via the supplied USB cable, which then displays a slider next to the brake pedal. This slider allows me to adjust the brake’s signal resistance, much like the potentiometer of the previous CSP v1 / v2 and CSR models. These are the basic steps I took, for a more detailed look at the process, you can consult the owner's manual on the Fanatec website. Swapping Out The Stock Springs Swapping out the springs was a relatively simple job and only took me a few minutes to carry out. After some time with the pedals in their essentially out of the box state, I progressed to the harder throttle and clutch springs. This involved dismantling both assemblies, swapping out the springs, and being careful to follow the instructions to the letter. The stock springs and spring-guides are not interchangeable with the harder springs and their subsequent guides. I note here, that the harder springs are black, in place of the nice, anodised red of the stock ones. I understand why, but design wise, it may have been nicer to retain the red for both sets of springs. Changing the colour of the spring-guides would have sufficed to differentiate between the two sets of springs. Mounting The Optional v3 Damper Kits After testing the v3s in stock form, then fitted with their harder spring options, I went ahead and mounted the damper kits to the throttle and brake pedals. Included in the damper kit is a concise printed instruction leaflet in three languages to guide you through the installation process. Additionally on Fanatec’s web site, there is a dedicated owner's manual with comprehensive instructions on all facets of installation, adjustment, and use of the v3s’ damper kit. This is a mini-unboxing in itself! There are quite a few small parts involved in mounting these dampers (twenty pieces in total)! A tip here would be to make sure you have a clutter free area. Should you inadvertently drop a washer or screw during the mounting process, it will make finding it again a lot easier. The time needed to perform this mod for both pedals was around half an hour, from start to finish. Four Distinct Driving Impressions Including Trying The Experimental Yet To be Released ''Eladur'' Foam Replacements For The v3s Brake Pedal Here I will split the driving experience into four separate sections, mainly because each set-up, stock as well as the mods, has their own distinct feel. Stock, out of the box with no adjustments: First things first, I wanted to try the v3s just as they are, straight out of the box, no adjustments. This was mainly out of curiosity, but also to give me a good reference point to begin with. The first thing I noticed was the travel on the brake and throttle is quite long. Secondly, the clutch and throttle springs are almost too soft. This is more apparent to me, as I have just come from Heusinkveld’s Pro pedals, which are set up to be very firm indeed, with short throws. The swapped out adjustable pedal extensions and their curved faces allow your feet good contact at all angles. The textured faces also have good gripping qualities, this grip translates to good pedal feel and being able to modulate them without much fuss. The 12 bit resolution of all three pedals in game is very good, the longer throttle pedal travel is something I have to get used to again. The brake is less than ideal, and I find heel and toeing quite difficult in this current stock set up. Left foot braking is acceptable, but again, the brake travel is too long for my liking. The clutch and throttle pedals in stock form are too soft for me as well. We do have two optional harder springs though, which should make a difference. Of course, both the brake pre-load and signal strength are also adjustable. Section two will address these mods and adjustments. Harder replacement springs and brake adjustment: Now we are getting somewhere! Having swapped the clutch and throttle springs out for their harder counterparts and adjusted the brake pre-load, as well as the signal strength via the software slider, these pedals are feeling a lot better! Heel and toeing is now much more precise and the feel of the clutch and brake pedal is vastly improved from the stock spring set-up. The way the pedals feel now makes them quite pleasurable to use and they have a very good progressive feel to them. With the brake signal strength adjusted to allow me to really stomp on the brakes, lock-ups are now a rare occurrence and modulating the brake pedal is very precise. 90 kilograms or 198 pounds of load-cell goodness is now able to be used as intended! Much more in keeping with the high performance cars and race cars in most titles. Harder springs, brake adjustment and optional damper kits: Getting a little more serious now, the damper kits installed, I did a test by hand, just to feel the difference on the throttle. I set the damper to its hardest setting by turning the burled knob at the end of the damper to its maximum. This makes the pedal harder to depress and the feeling this extra firmness imparts is almost like a sticking throttle. Not a fan of the mod so far! Then I went the other way and set the damper to its minimum setting. Now with almost no resistance, the damper gives the throttle a feeling that is hard to pinpoint. I would say it is a cross between a heavy return spring and a hydraulic gas strut. I tried all the other settings in-between, but I stayed with the least amount of resistance and went driving. The brake damper, on the other hand, was set to almost its maximum setting. This combined with an almost maximum preload adjustment and a low value for brake signal strength, resulted in a pedal feel far more on par with a real race car’s hydraulic system. The combination of mechanical, electronic and damper adjustability transforms the CSP’s brake pedal into a true stand out pedal! This could just possibly be one of the best brake pedals in sim racing! Driving with the v3s in this configuration gives me the most sim racing enjoyment. They are very responsive and their adjustability is a real pleasure, however, I am not 100% sold on the throttle damper. I cannot really say that it improves the feel of the pedal. It may make it more accurate when modulating the application of more or less throttle, but it feels a bit numb, for want of a better word. The jury is still out on this particular addition to the throttle pedal. Harder springs, brake adjustment, optional damper kit (brake only) and experimental Eladur rubber foam replacement: Ok, so onto the final driving impression. This yet to be released Eladur mod, meant to replace the standard PU foam of the brake pedal, changes the character of the v3's brake pedal yet again. The mod necessitates the almost total dismantling of the v3's brake pedal in order to install either, the slightly softer red or decidedly harder green Eladur variations. I personally prefer quite a hard pedal, so I opted to skip straight to the green variant. After some searching online, I found a nice little PDF of the procedure and went about installing the mod. Once completed, the improvement in braking was very pleasing to say the least! The combination of software brake pressure adjustment, damper kit and this Eladur mod has transformed what was already a very good brake pedal into an outstanding one! Heel and toe driving with the v3s is an absolute pleasure, I would like the throttle to be a little heavier as well, but all in all the effort required to install the mod has yielded a good result. Hopefully Fanatec will release this mod to the general public very soon, and then all v3 owners will be able to experience a new level of braking. Force Feedback Motors The small FFB motors do add a subtle feel to the pedals, with racing shoes on and driving vigorously, they occasionally spring into life and I can feel them. Along with the vibrations coming through the wheel and the frame of the Sensation Pro, it starts to feel quite immersive. There it is again, that word immersive. A realistic experience is what I am looking for in sim racing, and I have to say these small FFB motors do add something to the experience as a whole. For me, they could be a bit stronger, but Fanatec has taken a unique approach. The FFB motors are a good addition to these pedals indeed! Titles driven: Assetto Corsa, iRacing, Project Cars, rFactor2, and Automobilista Pros Compatible with PS3, PS4, xBox One, 360 and PC Compatible with most titles via a USB only PC connection Base price point High resolution pedals with magnetic and contactless ‘’Hall’’ 12 bit sensors on throttle and clutch pedals 90kg or 198lb load-cell equipped brake pedal One of the best brake pedal feels in sim racing Positive clutch pedal feel and action Robust CNC-machined aluminium construction Cool colour scheme, black with anodised red finishes Quick set-up Very good adjustability Brake resistance adjustment via software (USB only connection) otherwise adjustable via a Fanatec wheel rim, when connected to a CSW wheelbase Modding possibilities, supplied optional harder throttle and clutch springs and optional colour accent sets available separately Optional damper kit for throttle and/or brake pedals Well laid out quick guide and comprehensive online owner’s manual FFB motors on brake and throttle pedals are an unique immersive addition Includes pedal extension arms and racing style pedal faces In combination with a CSW base, pedals are compatible with all titles Cons Due to space constraints, some mods are a little fiddly to carry out Fragile wires going to FFB motors Damper mod for the throttle pedal is overkill (personal preferences apply) Black finish shows up every spec of dust and use Harder springs could have been anodised red as well, to maintain the cool colour scheme Can develop some mechanical noise after a period of use (lubricant included for maintenance purposes) General Requirements One free USB 2.0 port (PS3, PS4, xBox One, 360 and PC) not for use with a USB hub Pricing Once again we arrive at the pointy end of this review, what do these Fanatec CSP v3 pedals cost? I will list the price of the reviewed model and the optional v3 damper kit separately, here below. The stated prices were correct at the time of publication, March 2016. All prices were taken from the official Fanatec website. For sales tax, duties and worldwide shipping costs, please check the Fanatec website. Review model: As tested, including two v3 damper kits, €519,85 in Europe and the UK including 19% tax Price in the US $439.85 Price in Australia AUD $739.70 Base price CSP v3 Pedals: Fanatec CSP v3 Pedals, €359,95 in Europe and the UK including 19% tax Price in the US $299.95 Price in Australia AUD $499.90 Optional v3 Damper kit: Fanatec v3 Damper kit, €79,95 in Europe and the UK including 19% tax Price in the US $69.95 Price in Australia AUD $119.90 Final Thoughts Having spent a few weeks with the v3’s, I come away quite impressed by their build quality, ease of use and adjustability. They were a pleasure to sim race with and the brake pedal is a stand out for me. There is something for everyone in this brake pedal, whether you prefer a pedal with a lot of travel, similar to most road going cars, or the almost rock-hard pedal of an F1 or GT race car. Whatever your preference, it is easily attainable via the three separate adjustment and modding possibilities available to you here. The optional damper kits are a good addition to the the brake pedal, but as I said earlier, I am not convinced about the merits of the throttle pedal damper. For me, it is not a definite improvement on the harder spring that I used prior to fitting the damper to it. It seems to numb the return response of the throttle a little too much to be a real benefit for me. Having said that, I know that this is a highly personal preference and some sim racers may like the feel the damper kit provides. I will continue to experiment with the settings on it before totally making up my mind. Price wise, the base v3 pedals are pretty unbeatable for the quality and flexibility they offer their new owners. Although, add two v3 damper kits to the mix and all of a sudden they are getting into Heusinkveld Pro territory. Performance wise, there are similarities between the two brands, although the v3s may have the edge on compatibility with the consoles and PC. The Fanatec Club Sport v3 Pedals are a good choice for anybody looking for stand-alone pedals to add to their sim racing rigs. Based on my time with them, I can confidently recommend the Club Sport v3s as a fine set of sim racing pedals. Stay tuned for more to come folks.
  7. 6 points
    SteveS

    OSR - Minimalist Plus Rig

    All the joining plates are laser cut from 2mm stainless steel, which works out just a little more expensive than standard 8020 L brackets. The universal wheel mount is designed to OSW wheels or Bodnar or Thrustmaster or Fanatec.
  8. 6 points
    Matthijs035

    New Dutch member and new DIY rig...

    My rig has been powder coated in gray and black colors! Better images will follow asap ! Sneak Preview :
  9. 6 points
    Jason Palmer

    New metal rig build.

    Good sir i think you will find thats the proper location for a shifter !!! I dont normally even bother with a plan at all, so this was a step up from what i usually work with ! I have now used the spare tubing to double up the side runners to get rid of the the slight flex at full brake. And to solve a small creak from the seat base i have added some extra bracing. the whole rig is now flex and creak free so i moved on to how i am going to move it in and out. I decided to keep it very simple, and cheap! I have used some half round 5mm thick pine strips to act as guides when sliding the rig in and out so it stays in-line with both the wheel and monitors. The under side of the rig has 10 feet attached that are designed to allow furniture to move about on wooden floors. They feel like Teflon coated round plastic buttons and as i have used them before on my corner sofa i know that they last and glide about on my floor smoothly. The rig moves very nicely now and those thin runners are just enough to keep it straight but don't foul the rig. This is the rig in the driving position, and then slid all the way in when not in use so that the door can be closed and no one is the wiser as to what is in there, just as the wife asked. Jason.
  10. 6 points
    Jason Palmer

    New metal rig build.

    I have now started to fit the hardware including the shifter. For the shifter i have used the spur on the base to build an arm to mount it to. And here is the simple arm mount. After fitting it to rig i used a spare piece of bar to hold the top steady by bolting it to the seat base. I then fitted the pedals and as mentioned before they will help hold the mounting box section tight together, I then moved on to the seat mounting. Again this will be hard mounted to both the front and back of the seat box section holding everything tight together, Finally the seat can be fitted properly, In the next part i will talk about flex and my solution to fix it. Jason.
  11. 6 points
    That pretty much brings me to end of my motion simulator build. It is all running perfectly now. If you want more tech talk about it check out the full build thread on the XSimulator forum. http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/my-2-dof-seat-mover-gs-4-simvibe-gauges.5596 Here is a repost of the finished motion simulator and a video of it.
  12. 4 points
    Now the project really started to come together and I could see the light at the end of the tunnel. We added some plywood to the base to mount all the electronic to. We spaced out the seat belt tensioner so we had enough room for the charger and batteries. We made some mounts for the POTS And left enough room for the controller box
  13. 4 points
    Now with the lever arms done and the upper and lower frame finished it was time to make the connecting rods and connect everything up to make sure we got everything right. We also finished welding up the lever arms. And we did a test fit of the POTS with the flex coupler that [uSER=9138]@Nick Moxley[/uSER] recommended. We finished the top shoulder mounts.
  14. 4 points
    ECCI pedals in place: Cockpit taking shape: Rear floor: We have bucket on actuators:
  15. 3 points
    stevemontuno

    80/20 DIY 2DOF Motion Rig

    I've done a couple of upgrades to my rig this last month ,, nothing much but i didn't like the look of the motor cover and it was really getting on my nerves so i've given it a makeover using 3mm ally checker plate ,,, damn that was some hard work cutting and filing ,,,my hands are very sore ,,,lol ,, also put a monitor skirt on for added immersion ,,, just needs a hood now,, Anyways ,, some pics .
  16. 3 points
    Prim4te

    F1 Style - Wood/8020 Hybrid

    Started with Steve Spenceley's basic f1 cockpit plans and let it evolve naturally
  17. 3 points
    stevemontuno

    80/20 DIY 2DOF Motion Rig

    Well i finally finished the motor cover ,,,, although i'm not too keen on the silver/grey color of the top so i think that is going to change if it doesn't grow on me pretty soon,,, I also removed the wheels from the rig and replaced with chrome feet ,,so my rig doesn't move while driving now ,,,lol 3.6mm Plywood Primer Sprayed
  18. 3 points
    savagess

    DIY Handbrake Mount

    Was after a handbrake mount for mounting a Fanatic Handbrake onto my Vesaro rig. vase just have one out but at £150 plus shipping. That would be over $320 Aussie dollars. A lot of money, especially when I'm saving for quad motion, also it is 9mm thick, not sure why so thick? So sketched out my own mount, did a template and and tested and adjusted until happy. gave to a mate who had it done up in Autocad and laser cut. Only issue was the bending, had it made in 5mm thick metal. Friend had an idea of cutting it down 3mm, then we could bend it, then he tig welded the cut and linished it. I then peeped the metal, bogged any imperfections, etched primed and two pack painted it. Did a left and right if I ever want to change sides. I think it turned out great.
  19. 3 points
    Next we created the top section of the seat frame and the shoulder mounts. At this stage we started working out the maths and drawing the frame layout. We went for 30 degrees back and 15 degrees out which we hit perfectly.
  20. 3 points
    a couple of days later and the seat frame is starting to take shape. The universal is from a Datsun drive shaft We built the frame to go around the GS-4 Servos. We slotted the universal mounting bracket so we could make fine adjustments to the pivot point. We also mounted my big buttkicker to the base.
  21. 3 points
    First think I did was split my rig in half so I could keep racing while I was building my 2 DOF seat mover. The front half can be stand alone so I could just wheel my office chair up and race. This was really hard to get used to racing without the GS-4, I really sucked at racing without it. The back half ready to get stripped down for the 2 DOF build
  22. 3 points
    So now to start my motion simulator build. I will start off at the beginning with the most important part, the motors and controllers. As I am a big lad I decided to go for some big 50:1 ratio worm drive motors instead of the normal 25:1 that most people use. I am using a pair of JRK12v12 controllers to control the motors. These aren't really big enough for my motors but more on that later.
  23. 2 points
    CaTaPulT

    Pimax VR

    Hi everyone, it's been a while since I posted in these forums. Last week I came across a video on YouTube of a VR headset I've never heard of, they claim it to be a 4K headset but that wasn't my point of interest, it's price was, it is 1/2 the price of the Rift and 1/3 of the Vive. So I started looking into it and some written and video reviews and saw this might just be good enough for me to try VR without breaking the bank. It's biggest drawback (from the reviews) is it has no positional tracking, instead it uses gyroscopes for head movement, so if your just sitting down racing (my intention for this thing) then it should work flawlessly. The advantages from what I read is with it's higher resolution, it gets rid of the screen door effect and other benefits also in that respect. My only concern and this is with ANY vr headset is I wear progressive lens glasses (reading at bottom, mid range in middle and distance towards the top) and I'm wondering how well I'll be able to see the screens with or without my glasses. I may have to go try and find just reader glasses to use a vr headset since the screens are so close to the physical eyes. If anyone wants to check them out for information, check out this link (where I bought mine from)..... http://www.gearbest.com/pc-headset/pp_423476.html I am anxious to get these things, coming from China, it'll take a while but once I get them, I will follow up in this message thread as to my first impressions and also once I get more experience with the headset. Take care Regards: >>>> Jack <<<< PS: at this moment, what are the VR ready sims out there... I know about Project Cars, Assetto Corsa, American and European Truck sim, rFactor 2 coming soon to VR and I no longer do iRacing.
  24. 2 points
    Mestizo69

    Evolution sim rig

    I bought this playseat Evo and Logitech G27 almost 2 yrs ago not knowing too much about what sim racing was about. After doing research on the hardware of sim racing I realized what I bought wasn't the best. So instead of selling it I decided to modify the crap out of it with ideas from YouTube or sim racing forums. It is still work in progress but I am happy with the direction it is going. Thanks for taking the time to look at my post.
  25. 2 points
    Psycho Dave

    Gearbox connector on base

    The shifter is from a Namco Ridge Racer arcade. It uses four switches to detect selected gear.
  26. 2 points
    BattleGear

    BattleGears T3pa 3D Print Pad Mod

    if you want them too i have good news for you... i have uploaded the files on thingiverse! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2183375 have fun with it
  27. 2 points
    Stig

    New Alum Profile Design

    Here is my design for a motion rig that uses Aluminium Profile combined with a DBox SRP 230 platform. It was my intention to make the design adaptable for as many seating positions as possible so I incorporated two horizontal rails which provide numerous positions for pedal height and the forward and backward movement of the steering wheel section. The base of the seat can also be raised and lowered and tilted forwards and backwards so almost any seating position can be achieved. The W Rig was designed with looks in mind incorporating 45 degree angles to give a sharp look using black profiles with red trims which also have a useful role as cable tidies. The width of the rig was set so that it bolted directly to the frame of a DBox SRP 230. Hope you like it.
  28. 2 points
    mo86

    DIY T3PA pedal extensions

    I made myself some pedal extensions for my T3PA pedals. The extension is about 22,5mm per pedal. What you need: 30x5mm flat aluminum 3 pcs M4x10 countersunk screw (one for each pedal) (3 pcs M4x25 countersunk screw if you turned around the pedal wedge, otherwise the pedal pads can be mounted with the original screws) various drills: 3.3mm drill / M4 thread drill / 4.5mm drill / countersink drill
  29. 2 points
    mo86

    Tilton Style Pedal Pads

    Here you go! A pic from the mounting holes and the original wedge. There are 4 holes because you can use the wedge in 2 positions.
  30. 2 points
    The Entity

    Buttonbox LMP2/GT3 style

    Hi all, I'm new to this forum but I do a lot of reading here and follow the site on a daily base. In my search for a buttonbox I saw a lot of nice pieces out there. But there was always something mussing. With all the components available on the market I started to build my own buttonbox. I based my design on the membrane buttons you see in LMP2, GT3 and rallycars.
  31. 2 points
    DHMotor

    SIM-LAB P1 Build/Review

    The Earthquake transducer really shakes this thing up - videos to come. I added additional corner brackets to aid in transmission from the back piece to the rest of the rig and to keep everything in place. I added casters to the rig, so the monitor is off to flip it. The supplied feet work very well - too well. Because they are softer rubber, they do a great job of keeping the rig planted, but on carpet they make it tough to move. Believe it or not, this is the wiring cleaned up. I used PET sleeving and shrink wrap. The Fanatec pedals are not the pedal set the P1 pedal deck was designed around. They will obviously work with the P1, but the spacing is not ideal for a clean mount - the . You could swap the 40/80 for the 40/40 FTB, but the net effect is the same. The 40/80 prevents twisting and the 40/40 provides a slot to secure the other end. Still liking everything on the whole. I've started a more formal review in Word, but have received some PMs so I thought I'd reply for all. Waiting on my new Momo seat to finish it off.
  32. 2 points
    soups

    OSW Direct Drive wheel....."WOW!"

    I just received my first OSW kit on Monday and I finally installed into my rig , Good bye my good friend "Fanatec CSW V2 !" your where so good to me but its time to move on. And boy have I moved on ! I am still doing some fine tuning and I must say I can't believe what I have been missing . This OSW kit from Sim Racing Bay is "Awesome!" . The Nordschleife and all the cars/tracks I tested just came alive I never knew what I was missing . At this point I'm still trying to tune for Automobilista and I Racing . I have Raceroom Experience and Assetto Corsa pretty close to what I like. Now i'm just waiting for my Fanatec USB conversion kits from Sim Racing Machines . These kits will allow me to convert my Fanatec GT3 , F1 and Xbox One Universal hub as stand alone USB devices the beauty of there conversion kit is not wiring or sottering needed , its just a plug in. . I can't even use my CS shifter because that needs to plug directly into CSW base so I had to order the Fanatec USB adapter. So unfortunately I have to run in automatic shifting I know "BOOOO!" At least by tomorrow I will have my Fanatec rim converted and use paddles. So if anyone has any setups that the can share for MMOS or in game that would be great. Thank you. Now I'm off for a forearm work out !
  33. 2 points
    Stig

    New Alum Profile Design

    Its still a work in progress but so far I'm really happy with the result.
  34. 2 points
    TurboTurtle

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    @Spriggsy Have a nice trip mate and i will miss you since recently you are the only one that worries me.. This week i really killed and definitely i was on fire for my standard but with a couple of elements missing from the competition i cannot realy giggle more than that.. I already setup for the coming week so good luck everybody!!
  35. 2 points
    lexmonteiro2

    Tx Handbrake Mod

    Hi, Tony. I found a cheap and relatively simple way to make a handbrake for T3PA pro, using an aluminum brake lever, a brake cable, C clamp and a drill, managed to make a very functional hand brake, which works on most games and consoles: http://1drv.ms/1FIpYQ8 https://youtu.be/w18cu0q_9MY For me it works perfectly, and the clutch pedal is functional, but only the range is a little reduced.
  36. 2 points
    I then did some motion response testing. The blue line is the position requested by the game and the red line is the actual position of the motors as reported by the POT on the end of the motor shaft. This is with a pretty extreme motion profile. The scale is of 0-100% of my motor position and the time span is 5 seconds This is a braking zone followed by a sharp hair pin corner. this is using 70% of my travel so it is a pretty extreme movement but the motors are following the movement very nicely A right then left chicane A gentle sweeper I have recorded a video of the graph while the AI races with me in the seat. I am very happy with how quickly the simulator responds. It is capable of this kind of motion with out any motor errors, It is only when I go off track.
  37. 2 points
    Later that night I installed Simtools and got all the axis setup. The next day I had a Skype call with Nick Moxley and he walked me though how to get Simtools up and running and how to set up all the different DOF's I did some testing in Simtools and started creating motion profiles. I am getting really good results and I am really happy with the speed, power and movement of the rig. Because if the design of my rig and the size of my motors I did run it to some trouble with extremely bumpy parts like when I go off track. If I checked the JRK utility it would say that there was "Motor Driver Errors" and it would stop and start the motors quickly. My friend came over and we installed a shunt in to the circuit. We connected it up to an oscilloscope and found the problem. These motors are beasts, we were seeing peaks of over 70amps per motor, over 140amps through the entire system. The JRK's can handle this for a short time but if it is too bumpy then they throw their hands up and give the motor controller error. My solution was to limit the max duty cycles down to 400. I did some driving with the JRK graph open, watching the duty cycle graph. And most of the cornering effects are around 200 duty cycles, things like gear changes are up to about 300 and rumble strips are up around the 350 mark. The only time it went over 400 duty cycle was off track or on a very bumpy corner like the carousel at Nords. Anything over 400 duty cycles it will just clip to 400 to save my JRK's which is fine because 400 is pretty damn violent, any more and I would be hurting myself These motors are very torquey. I went for the 50:1 ratio motors because I am quite big so I wanted to make sure that they had no problems moving me around, and they do a great job at that. The motor speed is 5500rpm Vs the 3600rpm of the 25:1 ration boxes. The output speed is a bit slows than the 25:1 motors with 100rpm Vs 160rpm so I went for longer lever arms. The motors don't spin back at all when they are powered off. We tried turning one by hand and it is impossible. Even when we were doing up the bolts on the shaft. Which is awesome because it means I can sit in the rig when it is powered off and it won't move at all. I am really happy that I went for the design I did with the batteries. Those 70amp spikes would have tripped out anything but the most powerful power supply. But because the batteries can handle such a massive spike it does cause the problem with the JRK's tapping out. With the batteries the max current is massive so if I do have too much of a problem with the JRK's then I will have to find a way of limiting the current. But at the moment everything seems to run fine with the duty cycles limited to 400.
  38. 2 points
    So after we had the controller box it was time to mount everything to the plywood and do all the final connections. We used Anderson power connectors to connect the motors to the controller box. This are really heavy duty connectors and are soldered in to the lugs with a ton of solder. The batteries are just held down by cable ties and the battery box has it's own mounting brackets that came with it. The controller box in sitting on rubber feet which are screwed down through the bottom of the case and in to the plywood. The USB hub I went for is magnetic so it sticks to the top of the controller box and runs the 2 JRK's and my GS-4. We spent the whole day connecting and mounting everything up. We had Nick Moxley helping us out on Steam chat, and with his help by the end of the day we had it moving. That was the coolest feeling and I had the biggest of grins when it moved under it's own power for the first time.
  39. 2 points
    Now that the mechanical side was done it was down to the scary part. The electronics!!! Luckily one of my friends is an amazing electrical engineer so do made me this awesome controller box. Here you can see the 2 fans at the back which are blowing air over the 2 JRK's. We used some big heatsinks that we cut down to size on the water jet cutter then attached with thermal adhesive paste. Next to the JRK's you can see the relay for the front kill switch and the rear kill switch attached to the top on the box. We also added an LED to the back so I can tell if the controller box is switched on.
  40. 2 points
    Next up I added some vibration isolation. This helps with Sim Vibe. I used rubber vibration isolation feet with a low friction slider pad on the bottom. I have these on the rest of my rig so I can slide it out of the way when I am not using it.
  41. 2 points
    Next up we tacked up the lower part of the frame so we could check all our maths and it was spot on. From the top you can see the layout a bit better.
  42. 1 point
    Rodders

    TS-PC Racer Leather Grips

    Don't like wearing gloves racing and my hands were destroying the felt grips so needed leather. Went red Never done this before - bought leather that was way too thick (2.4mm - doesn't sound much but it was!) and it's a bit rough around the edges but damn it feels good. Makes the grips feel even chunkier which I like and the leather copes well with hot sweaty hands. The original grips peeled off with some tugging and provide a decent template to cut out another material. While the 2.4mm thick leather feels excellent in the hands, damn it was hard to work with and I don't recommend it unless you know a bit about working with leather.
  43. 1 point
    Diablo2112

    NLR GTultimate + OSW wheel. Will it work?

    Oh wow, I totally forgot! The v3 *comes* with a butt kicker mount (which Jeremy.Ford refers to in a post, above, Thanks!). Fits perfectly right under the seat. Bolts directly to the cross bar, and there's threaded holes ready to go. They included all the hardware as well. Here's 2 pics of the included mount. Works great with the RSeat, perfect fit, no modification needed.
  44. 1 point
    jcoahran

    FS: nVidia GTX 1080 FE - SOLD

    Purchased new a few months ago. Never overclocked. Original packaging. Still under warranty. Selling because I purchased a 1080 Ti. $425.00 + shipping. Sold.
  45. 1 point
    VSteve

    Gearbox connector on base

  46. 1 point
    goldeneye76

    G29 Mod questions

    Thanks Mestizo69, I follow amstudio on YouTube and he has some great videos and ideas, although I would like to see some more detail in the description of where he gets some of his materials he uses for his projects. I have already pulled apart my G29 to fit a deep dish wheel on it and now that I have had a look at the circuit board I see which buttons will be easy to "move" and which ones aren't. I will need to do some closer inspections and testing to see if I can figure out if that button can be moved. I will update my findings for those who may be curious.
  47. 1 point
    SN13K3R

    Evolution sim rig

    I just looked at the Simetik cockpit K2 and it's only €239,84, that looks like a very good deal doesn't it? It's less expensive than a Playseat and it looks very good! Again thank you!
  48. 1 point
    SN13K3R

    Evolution sim rig

    Thank you for giving me your opinion and helping me mate! I will certainly check those videos out have a nice day too
  49. 1 point
    KingJamey

    My Sim Setup-KingJamey

    i like to show off my custom made PlaySeat Sim setup. I'm from the Netherlands and always played GranTurismo on Playstation. My first wheel was a logitech GT and played it on ps3 and loved it. With my transition to PS4 i need it a new wheel. on my search for a wheel it al came down to the T300RS Butt the T300RS has a lot of force. So my playseat wasn't that stable anymore. The FFB on project cars was a new world for me what a force.!!!!!! So i started to customise my Play seat. Please watch and enjoy my setup . summary: -Used Playseat with suede Seat. -30,- euro on steal and 3 nights of welding -T300RS -32" Philips TV for just 275,- euro -a cheap BT Keyboard for all the extra functions in Pcars -Logitech F540 Headseat. nice headset with a lot a functions. -PS4 with a 2TB disk -iiyama B2409HDS Monitor for the telemetry through VRHive Still to come: -th8a shifter -t3pa padals Please leave youre Comment sorry for my bad englisch And greeting from the Netherlands
  50. 1 point
    Next up he worked on the external connectors and spacing of all the electronics