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    • Darin Gangi

      ISRTV Amazon Store   11/29/16

      Hi All, We created an Amazon store that's pretty basic and currently only for U.S. shoppers. If you purchase something from it and then other items through Amazon, we make a small commission. It won't cost anymore than Amazon normally does but will help support our show and website and would be greatly appreciated ! You can get to it by going here : http://www.isrtv.com/isrtv-amazon-store/ Thank for your support !

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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/26/17 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Presenting our First Look at the new 2017 Ford GT GTE, coming to iRacing in a matter of days. We hope you enjoy our look at it. And for the rest you...here's how you win a 3-month (4 available) or 1-year (2 available) NEW subscription to iRacing (New as in you've never had an iRacing account before). 1) Sign up on the ISRTV.com forums 2) Write a comment below 3) Profit We'll announce the winners this Wednesday, June 7th (winners will be contacted via PM) so make sure you sign up and comment!
  2. 6 points
    Presenting our latest Test Drive of DiRT 4 on the PC with us checking out Landrush. But you already knew that... Now on to the real reason you're here. We are doing a little DiRT 4 giveaway. We have 3 copies of the game to giveaway; 1 on Steam, 1 on PS4 and 1 on Xbox One. Steam and Xbox One codes can be redeemed worldwide, PS4 code is for North America only. Here's how you enter for a chance to win DiRT 4. 1) Sign up here at the ISRTV forums (and we hope you stay awhile even after the giveaway) 2) Comment below letting us know what platform you would like DiRT 4 on (and write whatever else is on your mind) 3) That's it. We will contact the winners via PM here on the forums this Friday (June 9th). Good luck! *UPDATE* Due to popular demand, we are now giving away 9 codes, 3 on each platform. Will draw names around noon est Friday.
  3. 5 points
    The RealGT prototype is finished. Please let me know if you have any questions.
  4. 3 points
    Edit #2: I've added a part 2 to this guide, which explains how to integrate non-Fanatec rims. See Part 2 here. Edit: I've found that a shorter 30mm spacer will also work in the application, see added pics, below. ______________________________ I thought some here might appreciate a how-to guide to integrate your OSW wheel with Fanatec Rims, allowing plug-and-play with no rim modifications, and keeping all button box, display, and vibration functionality with your Fanatec Rims. The principle here is simple: use a Fanatec/USB conversion board and route all signals through the in-hub quick release. I'm going to mention specific parts sources, below, but you could substitute if you're comfortable. Our end goal is this: There are 5 key parts needed for this conversion. 3 are easy to obtain, the other 2 can be tricky. We're adding: a 5cm hollow hub extension (to internally house the conversion board and provide room for wiring), a Fanatec Quick release, a Fanatec wiring harness, a coiled USB cable, and the USB conversion board itself. The 5cm hub extension is easy. The bolt-circle for both the OSW wheel attachment and the Fanatec Quick release is 70mm. I ordered a very nice machined/anodized aluminum unit off Amazon, seen in the photos here. Here's the link to the Amazon extension. For the USB conversion board, I used the Leo Bodnar board. It's available here. There are other options for this board if you're comfortable with Arduino programming, a Google search will reveal other options. The Bodnar board is plug-n-play, and (importantly), can be easily modifed (shortened) for the use here. Likewise the coiled USB cable is readily available. I ordered this one. The Fanatec Quick Release came with my OSW wheel package from Tomo Meglic at Simracinbay.com. I don't believe these are available separately. I highly advise ordering this magnificent, stainless-steel machined connector at the time your order your OSW Wheel. I can highly recommend Tomo, and his OSW packages are a great way to get into an OSW wheel. The final bit is the wiring harness from Fanatec. This is available as a spare part from Fanatec. I opened a chat session with a customer service rep, and said I needed a replacement. As I had a Fanatec CSW v2 wheelbase registered on my account from a prior purchase, they authorized a sale of this part to me. It cost $5. The Fanatec "Product Code" for this part is "SP-CSW MC new CSW main cable". You could also remove one from a Clubsport base if you prefer. I wish we had a better source for this critical part, so good luck in obtaining this harness. Now, onto the installation. First, I installed the Fanatec Harness into Tomo's quick release hub: I used spare 3mm nuts/bolts I had. Be sure to align it correctly, the "gap" in the pins goes to the 6 o'clock position (opposite the machined channel) on the quick release. Also, please use a thread-lock on your bolts and nuts. I used Locktite 271 Red (high strength). This part will be constantly pounded by the FFB and if you don't lock these nuts, they will come loose. I didn't have room for lock-nuts, it was a tight fit and I had to use small-outer-diameter standard 3mm nuts. With the harness installed, I mounted the steering wheel adapter and 5cm steering wheel spacer onto the OSW motor shaft. Be sure to work the 4 attachment bolts until all are very snug and none move anymore. It takes quite a bit of time to tighten this down, but you'll eventually reach a point where all 4 bolts no longer are loose. Another important point: please index your OSW wheel prior to attaching the final quick release. This allows auto-calibration of the wheel on startup. To index your wheel, hookup your OSW wheel and open the MMOS software *without* anything attached to the motor shaft. Rotate the motor shaft and hit the "center wheel" button in MMOS. Note the "offset" setting. Keep rotating the shaft, hitting the button, and noting the offset setting. Once you have the offset setting somewhere between -400 and +400, you've found the center point. Make a mark on the motor shaft at the 12 o'clock position, and align your installation so this mark is at the top when you finally attach the quick release. Now, for the conversion board. You need to make a couple of modifications. To start, you can shorten the board. I cut the board on my band saw about 3-4mm away from the USB attachment plug. This allows the board to easily fit into the 5cm steering wheel extension. Here's a picture of the board after cutting on the band saw: The second modification is the plug from the harness. The harness attachment is a 12-pin plug, while the Bodnar board has an 8-pin connector. You need to remove the sides of the connector on the Bodnar board, as well as the tabs from the 12-pin connector on the harness. I used a hobby knife for this. The proper attachment is to flip the 12-pin connector upside down (the former tabs on the plug will face the bottom of the board), and attach this from pin 2 to pin 9 into the Bodnar board. Here's a picture. I used a red marker to indicate how this fits for future use. Also, I prepared the coiled USB cable at this time. I cut off the mini-plug, and you'll find the 4 standard USB wires (Red, White, Green, Black) inside the shielded sleeve. I preserved a good length of the shield sleeve wire, as I attached this to one of the mounting bolts on the wheel adapter to reduce EMI. I also drilled a hole in the 5cm steering wheel extension, as you can see, to pass the coiled USB cable through. I fitted a rubber grommet over the cable before inserting the USB cord into the spacer. At this point, you're almost done! I attached the shield cable from the USB wire to one of the attachment bolts: And the last thing is to padden and insulate the Bodnar board inside the spacer. I wrapped it all up in a generous amount of electrical tape, before bolting it all together. Here you go: And then bolted it all together. Be sure to get the alignment right on the quick release. You want the slot facing directly up at the 12 o'clock position. And there you go! You use the Fanaleds software to control the button box, display, and vibration functions. Works like a charm! You've got full plug-n-play with your Fanatec wheels, and can swap rims between your OSW box and your Fanatec bases with ease. Hope this helps, let me know if you need anymore assistance in the comments. Edit: it turns out, the 30mm spacer also just (barely) fits in this application. If you want a shorter length steering column, this is the way to go. I upated my rig, and in my application (R-Seat N-1), it aligns my shifter and handbrake mounts very nicely. (still waiting on my HPP pedals to complete my rig)
  5. 3 points
  6. 3 points
    Part 1 of this guide showed how to integrate a Fanatec Quick Release and Wiring harness to gain plug-n-play capability for Fanatec Rims and your OSW Wheel. Please review Part 1 at this link for more details. In Part 2, I'll show you how to add non-Fanatec rims and wire a button box or paddle shifters through the same quick release and wiring harness, so that you can use both Fanatec and non-Fanatec rims with the same plug-n-play functionality. Quick summary: The fanatec quick release and wiring harness has 13 pins of electrical connection. We used 8 of them for the Fanatec conversion. Here, I show how to use the remaining open pins to connect non-Fanatec rims including either a non-Fanatec USB button box or paddle shifters. Here's the end result: To begin, you'll want a rugged coiled cable with 8 conductors. The Bodnar board from part 1 required 4 conductors (for the USB connection) in your coiled cable. You'll want an additional 4 conductors for either a 2nd USB connection (for your wheel-based button box) or to wire paddle shifters directly. I ordered this 8-conductor microphone cable from eBay. Basically, any coiled and shielded microphone cable should work. For my application, I'm going to wire paddle shifters directly from the wheel into one of my button boxes. You also have the option of wiring a second USB port, instead, if you would rather use a USB-based button box on your non-Fanatec rims. You have to make this choice yourself, you can't do both. Many button boxes have paddle shifters included. My thought was this: if I ever add a rim with a USB button box, I have the option of just wiring the USB directly, bypassing the through-hub connection. For my use, I'd rather wire in paddle shifters to my non-Fanatec rims. This has another bonus: you can splice the paddle shifters in parallel with a sequential shifter. Now, both the paddle shifters and sequential shifter will work at the same time, without the need to rebind the controls within your sim software. I like this idea, as I'm always forgetting to rebind my controls when I switch rims or wheels. So, here we go. I wired the black, white, red, and green conductors in this cable to my USB plug, to attach to the Bodnar board. I attached the shield cable to a short wire and grounded this to a screw on the OSW adapter. Finally, I attached the remaining 3 conductors (yellow, brown, and orange in the photo) to pins 10, 11, and 12 from the Fanatec wiring harness. Look closely at this picture, you'll see I've cut the wires from pins 10, 11, and 12 which were unused on the Fanatec harness, and spliced them into the 8-conductor microphone cable. If you're going the other route, wiring in a second USB connection, you'd use these same three wires (pins 10,11, and 12) and add pin 1 from the Fanatec harness, which is also unused. I connected a USB connector and 3-wire extension to the other end of the cable (using the standard black/white/green/red USB wires), and then spliced the 3-wire paddle shifter extension in parallel with my sequential shifter switches. This allows shifting from either the sequential DSD shifter or the paddle shifters at the same time, no need to change controller bindings, both are operating simultaneously. I wrapped up the Bodnar board in electrical tape for padding and protection, and reassembled the 35mm extension to the wheel-side QR on the OSW. At this point, I tested everything out to make sure my connections were good. I checked that my Fanatec Rim was still working, and it was. Now for rewiring the rim-side plug to attach the paddle shifters. I had several spares, I got a plug with each spare Fanatec Quick release I had obtained. A word about these spare Fanatec quick releases: they're getting harder to find. For a while, as folks converted Fanatec rims to OSW use, they installed a non-Fanatec QR and had the Fanatec QR available as a spare. They could be found lots of places, for cheap. No longer. With the rise in Fanatec/OSW integrations, the Fanatec QRs are in demand. You can stil buy the QR direct from Fanatec for around $45. Check with them, first, if you're looking for a QR for this project. I managed to find 4 spare QRs, each had a cable harness included. Here's the bare cable: That's a lot of glue in that plug! Let's tear it open to see what we find. Several pics here, to help guide you. Ok, did you get all that? First, I removed the bolt and outer housing. Then, I cut the shrink tubing with a hobby knife, and pried out all the glue. You'll find the pins are loose! A very nice design. I cleaned everything up, reassembled the plug, and this is what I was left with. Notice the 5, unused pins (no solder) from the original Fanatec harness. You can use these to connect additional switches, or anything else you might want to wire up between your rim and OSW. Pins 10,11, and 12 are at the 11 o'clock, noon, and 1pm positions on the plug, viewed from the back, if the screw is in the "north" position. This is easier to show in a picture than described in words. Here's were I soldered my 3-conductor cable for the paddle shifters. Note, one conductor is a common ground, and the other 2 are the left- and right-paddle shift switches. Which is which? That depends on how you wired the cable, earlier, and how you spliced it into your sequential shifter (or button box). You'll have to figure out that part on your own. The final bit is the paddle shifters themselves. This is a key piece of Sim equipment, and I didn't want to skimp here. Magnetic-shifters give a great feel, and are the same style used in real race cars. Several manufacturers can provide magnetic paddle shifters, and they aren't cheap. A relatively new manufacturer is Karl Eisenhauer. He machines a gorgeous magnetic paddle shifter entirely himself, based on the now-discontinued PDW design. These are selling on eBay, and they're a bargain for what they offer. I can whole-heartily endorse these shifters, they are simply magnificent. They mounted straight onto my Momo 350mm Race wheel, as you can see below. Here's a link to Karl's ebay auction, and here's a direct link to purchase from him and save a bit of money, as Karl isn't paying eBay fees with a direct sale. You can reach Karl at karleisenhauer@aol.com if you prefer. I used a bit of braided sleeving to protect the cables, and wired this all up in the small space under the emblem on my Momo wheel. I cut slots in my 52/70mm adapter (to mount the Fanatec QR onto the 70mm rim). BTW, this adpater is wonderful and available for cheap off eBay. Here's the link. Finally, it's all done! Works great, looks great, I don't have to change controller bindings between these paddle shifters and my sequential shifter, and I have plug and play with both Fanatec and non-Fanatec rims on my OSW! Hope this helps, and good luck.
  7. 3 points
    BigJayA

    My Thrustmaster technical support experience

    Yes i have every intention of taking this further, I'm like a dog with a bone and will definitely not let go!!!
  8. 2 points
    racerz

    My new 80/20 Sim Rig

    Hi all, Here are some pics of my latest build. In the past always ordered 80/20 on Ebay and cut it to size with a chop saw. Recently I discovered Tnutz now sells extrusion and will machine it to your specifications for a reasonable price. For those of you not familiar with Tnutz they have been selling various 80/20 connectors,etc on Ebay for quite a few years.The entire rig is 15 series with 1515,1530,and a few pieces of 1545 because it looks cool. Having access to precision machining I decided to do without external connectors and use internal anchors instead for a cleaner look. Got everything off the carpet with adjustable leveling feet. The only alteration to my original plan is how I ended up mounting my Mige motor. I was able to utilize the Ascher mount minus the feet .Needless to say this rig is very rigid.
  9. 2 points
    cojo

    Home made Sim Rig!

    Hey Guys! New to the forum! Just thought i would include pics of my rig. Everything was built by me (except the obvious, haha). I have a wooden base that my wife and I designed and painted (she did the painting). It is carpeted and i also put a car floor mat under the pedals so i don't wear out my carpet. And of course..the GO FAST stickers! It has led lights that light up underneath and a switch under the dash(main kill switch) and a switch in the back to turn the lights off. I use a G27 pedal set moded with Ricmotech load cell brake and i swapped springs for clutch and gas. I use a T300rs wheel base and G25 modded shifter. I also have 2 aura transducers, one under the seat, and one on the pedals powered by a dayton amp. I also built my triple monitor stand..with the exception of the vesa mounts (pole mounted). So far i've only fit 32" tv's on it, but im certain it could fit around 42". Right now i currently run 3x24" 144hz asus monitors. I'm super excited to finally be apart of a simracing forum. Community is a lot bigger/better than i expected! Let me know what you guys think! My pc specs: i7 7700k, Asus Strix GTX 1080, 16gb gskill 3200 ram, 960 evo m.2, 2tb storage drive, Maximus 9 HERO motherboard. (anything else just ask)
  10. 2 points
    Thank you sir. I'm hoping to have video of my GUI setup to eliminate the need for a mouse or keyboard for most actions soon. I'm working out quite a few bugs but it will be actuated by a touchscreen in the dash or via a tablet.
  11. 2 points
    Hello everyone. Letting you know that I have closed the contest and have PM'd the 9 winners. Congrats to those who won! Thanks to all of you who entered, and we hope to see you some more roaming the forums or joining in on our next giveaway, trying to do more of them! PS: If you're a PC user and didn't win, don't feel bad, those codes went real quick, felt like at least 75% of you are on the PC. Here are the winners: clanky aKy0001 aceiroo Kevin E Dizzle8421 Slidewayz44 Daniel Watson Narzugon Hurt MaGurt
  12. 2 points
    Jeremy.Ford

    R-Pod MkII : VR Enabled

    Hi there. I'll pick up a couple of these points for you. You do notice the difference between 60FPS and 80+. But it's only worth it if your GPU can push past 60FPS to start with otherwise and understandably it makes no difference. A 60MHZ monitor holds back the potential of a fast graphics card. When you put side-by-side a 60MHZ monitor next to a higher refresh rate monitor with the same GPU, the smoothness of the extra frames shown on screen looks like you're running different GPU's. I went from a 60 to 144MHZ monitor and it was like I'd upgraded the graphics card. For any gamer it's totally worth it. Transducers vibrate your rig and will pass through the floor if you mount them on the frame. Mounting the transducer on the seat will isolate it from the frame to minimise this. The type of floor will make a difference, my rig is on the first floor with hard flooring (using basic hard rubber feet isolators on the rig). I have a single transducer and you can hear it through most of the house when it's running. A solid concrete floor will prevent vibration leaking through, or a carpeted floor will make a big difference too. That's not to say in the least that if you perfectly isolate your cockpit from causing vibration to leak through that it's quiet. Transducers vibrating your sim rig is producing noise that will travel regardless.
  13. 2 points
    Prototype finished. Enjoy the video.
  14. 2 points
    stevemontuno

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    Well done Turbo, you did a grand job of hosting this league ,,, i'm sure you'll do just as good with a Dirt 4 league
  15. 2 points
    TurboTurtle

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    Like all the good things, there is a beginning and The End. Due the lack of contents and repeating the same stage over and over, the interest is now decremented at a point that i will go ahead and disband the league. I had so much fun with the league that kept me motivated for almost 2 years. I am so happy how I improve my sim rally driver skills,and i belive i find some true friends here and together we had some epic battles that will stick forever in my mind. Dirt 4 sound promising for league event with infinite contents. time will tell and we may continue this Journey Here the final result:
  16. 2 points
    jimmyhigh

    sim-pli.city SW20 deal

    From all the things I've read, Even the guys who didn't upgrade their osw, who just "tried" the v2, every one of them, were blown away. Barry Roland of sim racing garage remarked in his V2 review, that for the first time, he actually felt texture differences, as in, he'd feel a difference when going from the concrete slabs at Sebring, back to blacktop, and that sort of thing. The V2 is often described as "another level". So strangely, one of Beano's observations of the V2, was that it felt like he was driving with deflated tires, and that the steering felt numb, without enough detail and rawness. Bull plop buddy! Thats contradictory to every single thing I've heard from V2 owners as well as those who've simply driven on one a few times. But my ass would get a lot of grief if I posted something in the iracing forums challenging simcube it would seem. When running an osw or simcube without filter effects, or very low amounts, You'll feel clicks, snaps, notches, mechanical noise, etc. Most race cars steering wheels don't feel like...I'd even claim NONE of them feel like that. Lol. Or I'd at least hope not. But Beano tells people he prefers his ffb raw, so in a way he's not being directly misleading or biased. He's very clear about this , so he's at least letting people know he prefers the raw signal at high torque. I just don't think many people realise how terrible that actually feels when driving! Lol - and how completely bogus It is to fault the bodnar V2 for not allowing this "rawness" to be as present on the V2 as it is on the simcube. That'd be like writting a car review, and faulting the Bugatti Veyron for being incredibly smooth and stable, and not bumpy and unpredictable enough. I've edited this lengthy post because I write too much. Lol. Sorry.
  17. 2 points
    DHMotor

    SIM-LAB P1 Build/Review

    And so it begins.... After running through countless reviews and checking out a few different rigs that I could see local to me, I decided to go with one that was relatively unknown or at least unreviewed in any depth in my research. I did find a good video review of the Sim-Lab monitor stand which illustrated the general quality of the line, but nothing really on the rigs themselves other than short clips under 1 minute. With this review, I hope to provide a new source for prospective buyers to see in detail what Sim-Lab Products in general and the P1 in specific has to offer. Let me lay out first of all that Richard Schouteren, the CEO and chief bottle washer at Sim-Lab Products, was quite communicative through the process. As someone who is not practiced at purchasing a great many things from Europe, when I placed my order through PayPal and the money went, a certain leap of faith was taken. I placed my initial order on January 2nd upon receiving confirmation that the backorder status would be remedied in a couple of days(!). Numerous emails back and forth over the next 6 weeks both buoyed my hopes at times and tested my trust at others as promised ship dates came and went. I am sure Richard was equally if not more exasperated at the delay in being able to ship the product due to supply issues. (The SIm-Lab site now reflects the inventory backlog). Finally on February 17th, the long awaited parcels arrived: This is what $1,100+ of Sim-Lab P1 looks like. I understand that Richard has now switched shipping to UPS from FedEx, so I don't know what the new rate is likely to be, but my P1 with a keyboard mount and shifter mount added came in just above $1,100 including shipping. I will try to discuss the relative value this represents over the life of this thread. My initial impressions though are that the materials are of high quality. The only minor quibble I have on inspecting the parts is that the semi-gloss black coating on the machined plate items is a little uneven. Not that it isn't all fully covered, but that it is apparently thicker in some areas and has clear marks from where it was hung on the rack. I would say that dash bracket specifically would benefit from a good buffing or bead blasting prior to coating to remove flash and "sharp" machined edges. This next level of handling is what can drive the cost up quickly though and it is not something which is likely to impact the overall performance of the rig. I think I would be unlikely to "handle" the dash bracket itself after assembly is complete. I may wrap the dash bracket in CF vinyl wrap to dress it up, but the black color is certainly invisible relative to most wheel bases and monitor frames. Here are the parts unboxed and laid out for inventory: As of right now I am waiting on a couple of parts from Richard to complete the build, so for now I will sign off and be back to update the thread as progress is made and I've formulated more thoughts and opinions on the rig. In general, I am well pleased and looking forward to getting this up and running. Teaser image for tactile effect implementation: OK, up and running, but a cable management rat's nest at the moment. First impressions are that this rig meets my test of being solid. This was my main criteria as I had reinforced my previous rig to remove wheel shake- which I consider to be the biggest detractor from immersion. Full on shots coming once all of the wire sleeving is in place and the heat shrink tidied up. Plus, of course, an in depth review. As a lot of people have been checking in I wanted to get something out so you knew I was still here, so enjoy the BluntOne sticker magic above.
  18. 2 points
    Diablo2112

    OSW Direct Drive wheel....."WOW!"

    I, also, just upgraded my CSW v2 to an OSW wheel. Holy crap! Night and day difference. I called Fanatec and ordered a new cable harness, and hooked up my OSW to allow plug-n-play with all my Fanatec wheels. I used a Bodner USB interface, and did a couple of mods to the OSW wheel mount to get it all running. The advantage of this solution is that you don't modify the Fanatec Wheels at all. I can swap them between the OSW and my CSW v2. I'm setting up a second racing rig with my old CSW, so that's why I went this route. Now, I have shifter paddles, displays, and full functionality on all my wheels, along with the indescribable OSW feedback system. Here's a few pics, hope this helps show how I hooked this all up. I'm working a better solution to mount the Bodner board, but you'll get the idea.
  19. 2 points
    sebj

    Right Size TV?

    I think if you are prioritizing Sim racing then a smaller screen makes more sense closer to the wheel. If you prioritize movies go bigger. To each his own.Goood luck!
  20. 1 point
    Wolf68k

    T150 Gas pedal not working properly

    Sounds like the spring that returns to normal is broken or on it's way out. You could try replacing the spring or check the Buy&Sell area of the forums to see if maybe has a pedal set that they are selling or buy the T3PA pedals
  21. 1 point
    I want to thank c4rLo5 for the post on this year-old thread. I was searching for a solution to a FFB oscillation/vibration problem with my T500 in Automobilista---and discovered the root cause was a physical deadzone resulting from slack/play in the shaft to gear connection. This thread helped me fix it by shimming the gap between the shaft and the gear. Maybe someone who has a similar problem will find this solution with a search of Thrustmaster T500RS T500 oscillation straightaway vibration.
  22. 1 point
    BattleGear

    USB Pedal Issue [FIXED]

    on the default setting by my sq shifter was shift up bound with look back xD really creepy
  23. 1 point
    Truly stunning work!
  24. 1 point
    Electricity usage will increase with more actuators that's expected. Email ProSimU for that answer, I have no idea what a single actuator draws. If you're worried about running costs, why are you looking to spend 3000 euros in the first place? Is traction loss (yaw) essential on top of your basic 2DOF, probably not. 2DOF is the baseline and perfectly good. 1000 euros for traction loss, that's up to you. Ignore elevation, it's a byproduct of 4 actuators, it's a tiny factor that won't be noticed. The main benefit of 4 is spreading the load it puts less stress so increases reliability, I would also expect a degree of improved force feedback. So 4 is still better, but 2 achieves the same main purpose and better value. Adding a fragile monitor or TV mounted by a relatively small VESA mount not designed to be violently shook in different directions adds risk maybe, that's a lot of vibration and forces passed to the screen? Quite honestly I think you have a skewed impression of motion. A monitor not attached is just fine. The motion isn't moving across great distances from an untethered monitor.
  25. 1 point
    You're dead right about the Next Level Motion seat height. Mines mounted on 80/20 so I've been able to raise the pedals and wheel to compensate. I wouldn't use the motion platform on the Next Level cockpit, I owned the full Next Level cockpit before and it's awful.
  26. 1 point
    DOF is acronym for degrees of freedom. It's refers to the flexibility of movement on the axis. But that's not entirely accurate for these they don't name them as DOF. The models refer to the number of actuators, which still does increase the DOF. '2 motion' is 2 actuators, so obviously 5 motion is 5 actuators. This is a breakdown to their models as follows. 2 motion - pitch (forward/back), roll (left/right) 3 motion - pitch, roll, yaw (traction loss swing) 4 motion - pitch, roll, elevation (the four actuators raise/lower the platform) 5 motion - pitch, roll , yaw, elevation That should all make sense. PS. I think ProSimU should hire me for all my work writing this.
  27. 1 point
    Presenting our First Look at the new Ferrari 488 GTE, coming to iRacing in a matter of days. We hope you enjoy our look at it. And for the rest you...here's how you win a 3-month (4 available) or 1-year (2 available) new subscription to iRacing. 1) Sign up on the ISRTV.com forums 2) Write a comment below 3) Profit We'll announce the winners this Wednesday, June 7th (winners will be contacted via PM) so make sure you sign up and comment!
  28. 1 point
    Diablo love ya work Bro and thanks for making this an awful lot easier than it would have been with your help. Cheers The Gadge
  29. 1 point
    SpaceHedgehog

    R-Pod MkII : VR Enabled

    Thank you! I do race in VR pretty much exclusively now so the issue regarding refresh rate is moot. I do, however, have a 144hz main monitor and agree with Jeremy that higher refresh rates (even at 80+) make a significant difference in terms of visual smoothness and general experience. 60fps still remains the target for a good experience though. I'm also racing on wood over concrete so there is very little vibration leakage. From one Jeremy to another, thanks for such an eloquent response; much better than I could have managed! Edit: May as well throw in some more pictures: Upgraded to CSW V2:
  30. 1 point
    I agree the DOF3 version looks really good, great price considering it has traction loss. I wouldn't say using motion really tires you out, it's definitely more active on your body so it adds effort but no real g-forces going on. Motion is another layer of force feedback from the game and does add a lot to the experience. Dirt Rally or running the Nordschleife in any title is a blast. I have no idea how robust actuators are in general, I guess it depends on how hard they're worked. I've never seen anything online suggesting they're fragile applied to sim racing. If it's just sim racing the Oculus is the best choice, traditionally it usually gets supported first by developers. It's cheaper too as the hand controllers are sold separately. One warning, if you're prone to motion sickness it may not be for you.
  31. 1 point
    loser10

    Fanatec Direct Drive Wheel

    https://www.fanatec.com/forum/discussion/552/fanatec-direct-drive
  32. 1 point
    Diablo2112

    Vesar vs Rseat N1

    Motion seat is the Next Level Racing v3. Keyboard mount is very, very easy to move in and out from in front of the seat; I'd say the keyboard tray is one of the nicest features. It's also quite solid, not much flex at all given how long the arm is. The warthog can be mounted as I show. The joystick mount required a custom steel plate which I drilled and mounted to the seat as shown here.
  33. 1 point
    John Sabol

    Fanatec Direct Drive Wheel

    Interesting...
  34. 1 point
    Thirsty

    Fanatec Direct Drive Wheel

    That's great news. I'd love to see them build something which can compete with Lenze OSw's and Bodnar wheels. Extrapolating what they're offering for 1k it must be amazing what a Fanatec wheel in the price range of 3k would look like.
  35. 1 point
    ApexVGear

    Thrustmaster T3PA ("plastic" model) Spring Mod

    This mod substantially increases the pedal resistance for the $99 "plastic" T3PA pedal units by adding three torsion springs to each pedal (while still using the stock springs). If you own a T3PA Pro or T500 pedal set (the more expensive "metal" versions), go to this thread: Thustmaster T3PA Pro (T500) Spring Mod However, before going to that post, be sure to read over this one as it has some useful tips and additional improvements that could be applied to the other mod, such as the pivot pin sleeves, and the machine screw and nut to keep the springs in place. WARRANTY: This will likely void your warranty. For the best results, holes should be drilled through the sides of each pedal carriage (see photos below). DISCLAIMER: Make these modifications at your own risk, and understand you cannot hold me liable if you have any problems or cause damage to your pedal unit. Though the following instructions do not contain step-by-step instructions (or exact measurements), by reviewing the photos and notations, it should be relatively easy to figure out what parts you need, and how to do the modifications. IMPORTANT WARNINGS AND USEFUL TIPS BE CAREFUL as you're first removing the bottom panel of the pedals. There is a very short cable from the bottom panel to a small circuit board fastened inside the base (top cover). Lift the panel slowly, peer inside, locate where the cable plugs into the circuit board, position the panel so it won't fall (or have a friend hold it), reach in, and carefully unplug the cord. Unplug pedals: Never work on the internal components of the pedals while they are plugged into your wheel base. This can potentially damage the wheel base or the pedal circuit board. Measurements: Exact measurements aren't crucial for this mod. When modding your first pedal, you can establish "measurements" by evaluating how the parts will fit into the pedal components and work together (and referencing the photos below). You will do this when cutting the aluminum angle piece, trimming one arm of each torsion spring, as well as marking the drill hole locations. Once you establish these "measurements," you can cut the other sets of parts to match. One pedal at a time: All three pedals are identical. Therefore, you can cut and trim all the parts you're adding (once you establish the "measurements" when modding the first pedal), then re-install one pedal unit, then remove the next. This should prevent you from mixing up the cables, and helps when checking the potentiometer gears. Potentiometer Gears: It's very easy to re-install the pedal assembly with the gears engaged at the wrong positions. It's best to check the gear positions before completely disengaging them--which happens when you've removed the pedal assembly and can move the pedal arm beyond it's "stop" position, as limited by the pedal unit base cover. If you do get them out of position, you can compare them to one of the other pedal units that hasn't been removed yet. There are "windows" in the bottom of the metal carriages so you can easily see and compare how the gear teeth are engaged and operate. Tape Cables: Use some vinyl or electrical tape to secure the potentiometer cables into the base. Red or blue tape will be easier to see. Don't forget to reinstall the stock coil springs: You will be increasing resistance by installing three additional springs for each pedal, along with the existing stock springs. The FOUR springs will work together, and because the resistance is distributed, they should last longer. If you do forget the stock spring, it will be obvious the first time you depress the pedals, as the torsion springs alone aren't much stronger than the stock springs. Testing: Once all the pedal assemblies are modded and reinstalled into the base, all potentiometer gearing has been checked and their cables plugged back into the circuit board, you can CAREFULLY reinstall the bottom panel, by first plugging it's larger connector into the circuit board, then placing the panel into position. Then only install four of the 13 small screws for the bottom panel. If you're sure you securely inserted all four plugs into the small circuit board, plug the pedal unit into your wheel. If you're on a PC, launch your wheel's control panel. If you're on a console, launch a title that displays sliders for pedal movement. Check the pedal travel, then the upper and lower deadzones. Pay attention to how far you have to depress the pedal before you see movement on its' slider, then see how close the pedal comes to full stop (fully depressed) before the slider displays maximum. You should have "equal" deadzones at both the "top" and the "bottom" of the pedal travel. If there is a lot of pedal travel before you see movement on the slider, the slider is indicating that the pedal is slightly depressed, yet it's in its' full upright position, or the slider reaches maximum way before the pedal reaches it's maximum travel movement, the potentiometers are in the wrong position. This will take some troubleshooting, but if one or both of the other pedals are working correctly, then dis-assemble the unit, and compare the potentiometers... and you will have to remove the culprit pedal assembly completely from the base to adjust the potentiometer gears. HOWEVER, if you carefully compared and counted teeth between the pedal assemblies' potentiometer gears (especially to those that had not been removed yet), then everything should work properly. If everything checks out, then be sure to install all the remaining of the 13 bottom panel screws, and you're ready to start racing again... with more "realistic" feeling pedals! Additional part option: You may want to find a nylon or metal sleeve for the #10 machine screw (inner diameter matches the outer diameter of the screw). When the pedal arms are lowered to their operating positions, the torsion springs' arms are held in place by the screw, and the spring arms slide up and down on the screw as the pedals are operated. You can observe this movement by lowering and moving the pedal arms while watching the spring arms.
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Bushchook

    Anyone tried Simworx Pro GT V2 pedals

    I use HPP PHT's myself but there are a few people on iRacing that use them. Most people state that they are very happy with them and that they won't disappoint but I have never seen anyone give a direct comparison between HPP or HE pedals. All I can say for sure is that I bought a shifter from Simworx and it was nicely made and their customer service was very good.
  38. 1 point
    Diablo2112

    OSW Direct Drive wheel....."WOW!"

    Sure, here's complete details: http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/24932-osw-wheel-fanatec-rim-integration-how-to-guide/
  39. 1 point
    signman

    Compact 80/20 alluminium extrusion rig

    Build your own like I did. Profile bought in UK I just removed the triple's but I had a section for monitor's built into the rig too. It's VERY stiff. I'm now using VR
  40. 1 point
    ApexVGear

    Thustmaster T3PA Pro (T500) Spring Mod

    Here's a spring mod to substantially increase the pedal arm resistance in your T3PA Pro or T500 pedal set. You retain the stock coil springs, but add three torsion springs, Midwest Fastener #88213, to each pedal, that wrap around the pedal arm pivot shafts. While still keeping the stock coil spring, the addition of the three (or nine total) torsion springs increases the resistance to a similar feel of other, more expensive pedal units (such as the Fanatec units). Also, the four springs working together, sharing the load, yet not "binding" on each other, offers more resistance than swapping out the "single" stock coil springs with "stiffer" coil springs. ...and those stiffer "after market" springs WILL BREAK within a year. T3PA "Standard" Pedals: A very similar mod is available for the $99 "plastic" T3PA units. A few additional pieces are required to protect the plastic pedal arms. You can view this mod in this thread: Thrustmaster T3PA ("plastic" model) Spring Mod There are also some additional things in the "plastic" T3PA mod that could be applied to this mod (such as the sleeves around the pivot pins, and the machine screw and Nylock nut). IMPORTANT: You may have an issue with some or all of the bottom arms of the added torsion springs "popping" out of place. To alleviate this, you could mount or J-B Weld some type of small retainer in front of them to ensure they don't snap loose. Maybe even a few layers of electrical tape might be enough to keep these from popping out. If you hear a click when you're operating the pedals, then it's likely one of these arms has popped out, resulting in reduced resistance. ONE OTHER OPTION to ensure the springs stay in place, is to drill holes on each side of the metal pedal carriage, and install a bolt and Nylock Nut. See the thread about modding the "cheaper" T3PA pedals (link above) for information and photos to drill the carriages, and install the nuts and bolts. This will however, require you to remove the metal carriages from the two cross-shafts, which are locked in place by c-spring clamps. Removing the pedal unit covers: See the video link and notes below. Also, read the IMPORTANT paragraph about the possibility of breaking off screw heads. If you have a load-cell brake mod, it may not be necessary to make this mod to the brake pedal (though it helped ensure that my pedal, with the Ricmotech mod, fully returns to the upper stop bracket). WARRANTY: This will likely void your warranty as you usually have to remove a sticker to get to some of the screws to remove the lower cover panel. DISCLAIMER: Make these modifications at your own risk, and understand you cannot hold me liable if you have any problems or cause damage to your pedal unit. Here's a video from RetroGameFix.com, that shows how to disassemble the T3PA Pro Pedals. It's very useful information about removing the covers and getting into the "guts" of the pedal assemblies. However, disregard his suggestions about replacing springs, or adding an additional smaller coil spring inside the stock coil springs. From my own experience from the last couple of years, I know that replacing the stock springs can actually cause problems, and "after market" stiffer or longer coil springs fail within a year. Having two springs occupying the same space is usually not a good idea as it causes them to bind and wear against each other. The addition of these torsion springs is a much better and more reliable solution (as long as the lower spring arms stay in place), and the four springs working together offers substantially more resistance than a single, "stiffer" coil spring, and if installed correctly, will operate for years without failing. IMPORTANT: Before loosening any of the screws for either of the covers or the bracket that limits the upper travel of the pedal arms, check underneath the unit to determine if any of the screws are threaded through a nut or wingnut. If you attempt to loosen one of those screws without loosening the nut, you will likely BREAK THE SCREW HEAD OFF.
  41. 1 point
    ANDRITSOULAS

    5€ overheating solution for T300rs

    Thrustmaster respond me that in case there is a broken case cover,after inappropriate use, the unit should be sent to TM for repair. Also about the overheating (especially when ''driving'' in Project Cars on Ps4) they suggest to use the unit in 60% FFB. This is the proper use in order to avoid any FFB fading. I personally use the Jack Spades ffb global set up. I have the Tire force at 75. In game ffb 100. So i will start a thread on Buy/Sell section to find the covers . . . . . If anyone has a dead T300rs pm me. For now i will stick a fan on top of the base. I will update this thread when i will be ready with results.
  42. 1 point
    racerz

    Wanted - Heusinkveld pedals or Fanatec V3's

    I have owned most of the major pedals out there and HE's are my favorite. The brake feels the best to me. As far as them breaking I think the chances of that happening are very slim.
  43. 1 point
    dpmalito

    Wanted - Heusinkveld pedals or Fanatec V3's

    Big difference there, Fanatec is mid level, Heusinkveld is high end. Have you tried either? Have HPP myself and love them.
  44. 1 point
    Hey man, thank you for making this guide for my Fanatec rims + OSW Plug and Play mod, just please remember to give credit for the plug and play concept . I have been intending to write up a guide myself since many people have asked me since I first put up my Clubsport rims OSW plug and play mod video but I just haven't had the time. I will be making an update video though with some more information and showing the newer style adapter installed. It is also cool to see that you used the Leo Bodnar conversion board as opposed to the Teensy LC. I do have a question though, does the Leo Bodnar board allow the left thumbstick on Fanatec rims to work? With the Teensy this works as an analogue axis which is nice to have, I use it to look around in some games. I am glad to see the mod getting so much attention! I had a feeling people would like it. Great job on the write-up as well, very informative and detailed In case anyone is interested, here is the original video I made and a link to the original ISRTV write-up I posted for the Teensy based Clubsport rims Plug and Play mod. Teensy board is cheaper at about $20 USD and allows the USB to just plug in, however you will need to solder the wires going to the Fanatec plug and load the Teensy with firmware. Edit: Just to clarify, the reason the plug is held in with hot glue instead of screws in my original video is because this was the way I temporarily held it in place with the old simracingbay qr adapter. The old adapter was hallow and did not allow for screws to be fitted to mount the plug, therefore I needed to be creative. The new one (the one used in this tutorial) has the machined platform and screw holes to allow the plug to perfectly fit inside the adapter and be retained with screws. Tomo (simracingbay owner) made the new adapter in response to my first video, I made an update video comparing the two different QR adapters shortly after the first vid. I just wanted to clarify this in case someone didn't see my thread and was wondering why I would be using glue in the video.
  45. 1 point
    dpmalito

    Any New Fanatec Direct Drive Info?

    Just wondering if anyone heard anything. I want to upgrade, but I don't want to have to do the whole OSW/USB mod thing. Plus, call me crazy, but I like the ease of use of Fanatec rims and their feel.
  46. 1 point
    stevemontuno

    80/20 DIY 2DOF Motion Rig

  47. 1 point
    Kranky Pantz

    Simvibe Promo Code?

    I've been thinking about ordering Simvibe from their site and noticed that they have a "Promotional Code" area on the payment page. I realize that I missed that Black Friday deal a few months back, but do they ever offer discounts for ISRTV or forum members? Has anyone here ever purchased it with a promo code before? Would love to try it out, but with the exchange rate here for your Northern brothers in Canada it's a bit pricey without being able to demo it first and check the compatibility with my soundcards. Fingers crossed for either a sale or discount for ISRTV members!
  48. 1 point
    Caramidaru Bogdan

    Mr.C setups/tips&hints for raceroom

    GTR3 Audi R8 LMS Ultra - Mid Ohio Chicane - 1.26.716 TIPS - not my best laps but setup is decently stable; - late shift into 2nd, you will lose the rear; - some mid-corner understeer just wait it out. AUDI R8 LMS ULTRA.svm
  49. 1 point
    Tino

    My Thrustmaster technical support experience

    I agree, calling is probably best, although I got the feeling that they only work during US office hours? If you've bough the wheel from shop like amazon I found their return and replacement procedure much smoother... This might help also http://www.dailyinfographic.com/how-to-talk-to-customer-service-representatives-infographic
  50. 1 point
    motiondave

    Monkey Driver - New rig about to go on sale

    the "rest" adjustment looks good, especially if it does this when you crash the car in game to give you the feeling of being smashed into the dashboard....