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      ISRTV Amazon Store   11/29/16

      Hi All, We created an Amazon store that's pretty basic and currently only for U.S. shoppers. If you purchase something from it and then other items through Amazon, we make a small commission. It won't cost anymore than Amazon normally does but will help support our show and website and would be greatly appreciated ! You can get to it by going here : http://www.isrtv.com/isrtv-amazon-store/ Thank for your support !


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/18/17 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Hi there! I am Robert from the Netherlands, 36 years of age and a complete newbie at the sim-racing scene, but always had the urge of building a sim-rig one day. It's a bucket list thingy I spend a long time searching for possible ways to build a decent and cool looking sim-rig until i stumbled upon OpenSimrig Supersport designs which blew me away! I just had to build a rig like this! I haven't got a clue where to start with measurements and/or sizes of rigs so because extrusion material is very expensive i decided to contact Steve from OSR and bought his plans for calculation of materials needed and basic instructions.Steve helped me out great so i could get started right away. As for the build, it's a 40 series based on the SuperSport evolution, extra wide version and with full bracing. i am trying to make it a one-off with some custom touches. well see how things go along the way. Just started the build so it's not finished yet but here is the progress so far, hope you like it. extrusion alu arrived and cut to specific dimensions of plans bought. I you are willing to try this at home please buy a decent cut-off saw instead of this crappy Metabo. I had to take apart the whole freaking thing to replace the cheap Chinese bearings for decent ones in order to make a clean cut! 1st profiles laid out. They need to be fixed with t-nuts and corner brackets so where the alu plates where made, they made the corner brackets too. As for the plate cutting; I tried to make a custom design by mixing logo's on the web along with some custom fonts. They needed to be fairly basic because of the laser cutting. I visited a good friend of mine which happens to work at a construction company, knows his way around Auto-cat and he can get hold of a laser cutting machine! so we tried to imply the ideas into Auto-cat and change the design in such way it was suitable for lasercutting. these logo's i used for the design: this is what i came up with before final editing laser cutting plates: Plates cut. Plate material used: 2mm Aluminium. For the footrest i would have preferred 3mm but this is not the case so made a extra crossbar. corner brackets. footrest. The untreated alu plates are so sensitive for damage/marks so had to come up with something to adress this and still look good. Carbon Wrap. This micro perforated carbon wrap is awesome! no more air bubbles to worry over. Cutting the foil is a painstaking job but worth the effort. current state. More following soon.. Cheers, Robert
  2. 2 points

    Left or Right Hand Drive ?

    Just go what feels right for your hands. I'm a Brit and run my shifter and handbrake on the left on my sim setup. I don't care if it's opposite to most vehicles in simracing it's not something I take notice of and it's just more natural to driving my road car.
  3. 2 points

    Left or Right Hand Drive ?

    Setup the rig whichever way you feel more comfortable. I too drive with the gear stick in my left hand in Australia, but my sim rig is reversed with gear stick and handbrake on the right as I find it more comfortable. I have zero issues with it.
  4. 2 points
    Hi All, Over the last couple of weeks I have been slowly making a dashboard for my wheel. It's a bit rough around the edges but gets the job done and is cheap to do in comparison to buying a pre-made model. Anyway, here it is fitted to my setup; Cheers, Sarge
  5. 2 points
    Hello, guys From now on - you can buy RSEAT products from me if you live in Eastern Europe. Other regions are out of my reach, but if you need help I can help ,too. I have my own company called Playgasm LTD. it is official approved from RSEAT distributor. Buying from me you will have my special attention and support 24/7. Even if you are customer on RSEAT, but with not bought on me product - I will help always. Just buying from me - you keep me rolling;) I have online shop - PLAYGASM.COM For now is on bulgarian language, so you can contact me directly. facebook.com/krassi skype: delf1n1 email: motodancer@abv.bg mobile: (+359) 895 164 481
  6. 2 points
    Here, I will go first. I'm sorry I outted you publicly, but I was honestly only trying to get you to respond to me. I'm sure your a nice guy and normally wouldn't do something like this and probably didnt intend to this time. Maybe you missed my text that friday, when I mailed the check, stating you had to sign for it. And then maybe you just assumed I didn't send the check and was either to busy or to tired to check the tracking. And then maybe you refused the check because by that point you had already reached out to another buyer giving them the green light. I just wish you would have reached out to me and communicated better. And I wish you didn't blame me for what happened. I did all I could on my end. Maybe I have rubbed some including you the wrong way and to that again I apologize.
  7. 1 point

    MotoGP 17 vs Valentino Rossi: The Game

    Nice comparison video. It defiantly sounds improved in the latest game. I guess something Milestone has really been working on. Was also quite noticeable with the jump to MXGP3.
  8. 1 point
    Hi, I don't know, what your original profession is, but you are very talented at this area! The best ambient lights I've ever seen, just exactly my taste! Keep on realizing your ideas, please! And share them... Best regards!
  9. 1 point
    Yes. The RS-1 did flex moderately with the HPP pedals. I upgraded my rig to the N-1, and it was considerably stiffer with the HPPs. I also ordered the pro pedal mount for the RS-1 to mount my spare Fanatec v3 inverteds. It certainly helped. IMHO, the pro pedal upgrade is needed if you're using hydraulic pedals.
  10. 1 point

    Left or Right Hand Drive ?

    It can be confusing depending on what cars you drive. The car in the sim will represent the drive side of the car in real life. For instance, I like Aussie V8 Supercars, and they are right hand drive, but my rig is set up as left hand drive, even though I'm Aussie. So, for some cars, it's awkward, but for most, left hand drive set up is better. I had mine right hand at first and recently swapped it. Took some getting used to, but I prefer it this way. If you drive right hand drive cars with paddles, however, it matters very little.
  11. 1 point

    Are all T300 created equal?

    Yes. The wheel base is the same along the entire T300 line. Only thing that changes is the included rim and pedals.
  12. 1 point
    Hey Guys, finally finished my very cramped sim room, thought id share it with everyone. My main machine GT Ultimate v2, modified shifter mount and Bride Replica Alcantara Race seat Motion platform v2 3x Benq XR3501 monitors on RSEAT XL monitor stand Fanatec CSW v2, Universal hub, V3 pedals, Shifter SQ1.5, carbon formula wheel PC, core i7 6700k, 16gb 2133mhz RAM, SSD, Asus GTX1080 GFX I also just got a HTC VIVE, will report more on this soon!
  13. 1 point
    Wow, that's a great looking custom dashboard. Great job!
  14. 1 point

    automatic race wheel recommendation

    What platform are you playing on? If on PC... completely skip the MS X360 wheel, as MS never created proper drivers for PC. It can work, but it will have no FFB and combined pedals. Honestly all the Logitech's you mentioned are the same, just different look and button placements on the wheel rim and the G25/27 would be bundled with a shifter... but the FFB internals are almost identical on all 3 generations. Another Logitech option popular as a starter wheel on PC, is if you can find a Driving Force GT... but the G25/27/29 will provide a better pedal set. Personally I'd pick the one with a warranty, such as if the G29 is new. If you need PS4+PC support, then you need the G29. For PS3+PC, the DFGT, G25 or G27 can work. If on Xbox 360, the Microsoft wheel is your only real option.
  15. 1 point

    DSD Button Box/Panels vinyl decals

    thanks Nathan....my order is in!!!!!
  16. 1 point
    Great project, looks very nice.
  17. 1 point

    DSD Button Box/Panels vinyl decals

    Sweet. I'll totally order a set. Just let us know where.
  18. 1 point
    Mate please count me in for a set as well. money and address waiting. Jason.
  19. 1 point
    I like the CF look and making it your own. Looks cool.. Watching your progress...
  20. 1 point
    Wow, loving the attention to detail. Show us more!
  21. 1 point
    you dont have the t3pa pro... you have the t500 pedals. there a bit of a differance... i messured the pro mod. its 25mm diameter, 22 mm length and a m10 threading. cant say if its work... in length maybe if you mount the brake mod plate in the last hole... the width of the scratchy mod is 37mm, it sould fit inside diameter wise. if you find it with m10 give it a try. maybe you can find in the states a m10 to m8 reduction sleeve
  22. 1 point
    Hi, I just bought a Fanatec CSL Elite Wheel after returning my Thrustmaster TX Leather edition due to it always shutting off. I;m a little bummed that it kept shutting off and given its history with failures, I felt luck to have had it fail before it became a warranty issue. so I decided to get the CSL Elite instead. I've set the new wheel up, updated the firmware and manually calibrated it. But now the wheel has started to violently shake side-to-side when I'm either in the menus or if the car is idle. It's driving me nuts! Does anyone have an idea of how to fix this and or why this is happening? Thanks in advance for the help!
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point

    Hi! I'm New, Need Some Help

    Thanks loser10, That kind of ends that debate. A follow up question would be. Are there any indications that Fanatec will release a PS4 hub for the Clubsport wheelbase, like the one for XBox??
  25. 1 point
    I'm interested in buying it but I need to get with Sam first and see if he can integrate a fanatec uni hub into it. I'm sure he can he has built me a custom SMZ1 with a uni-hub (without it showing) Just want to check and make sure first.
  26. 1 point
    ill send you a pm Tzanido and Martyn, mine have a little movement in them as well. dont think much harm can come from this, just a little bit of freeplay. Ok, so an update on the build. So, i now have 2 tactile transducers on the side of the seat and plan for another one on the pedal deck as i had 2 real life racers come and drive the machine and both said it would be good if it was possible to have some road noise and feeling in the pedals. Sim Commander allows for this and also ABS and traction loss so ill be getting a third one for sure! Next change to my rig is just an aesthetic one, i fould some nice and bright SCN6 covers from a a European company called Logykal. after at them online i knew that this would look awesome on my machine. Service was great and within 4 days i had my covers. only 1 problem! the hole at the bottom was too small. Just under 5mm too small After speaking to them about it, they advised that they can manufacture a spacer plate to sit the actuator on. was very nice of them to do so, but i was prepared to wait that long so i took my covers to my friend Andrew and he performed his magic. What a champion. Its a perfect fit now and the machine really looks finished! I'll leave everyone with detailed some pics as the next update will be a while. Enjoy!
  27. 1 point

    DSD Button Box/Panels vinyl decals

    That was technically my 2nd printing. My first run was only about 40 just to make sure I could do it and keep it within my tolerances (to my utter surprised those sold out in a night). I think if I can find time to do a 3rd run I will probably alter it a bit and add a few more options that are currently not there. (FOV, tires, fuel, launch control). NathanW
  28. 1 point
    Anthony A.

    DSD Button Box/Panels vinyl decals

    Are the encoder decals precut individually so you can mix and match? Also, are you able to make custom decals like these but different words?
  29. 1 point
    Hi Tobarus, as I said earlier - I have and enjoy both systems but, while the OSW has some distinct advantages in certain areas, the AccuForce's best strength currently resides in tuning options and warranty IMO. It just depends on what is more valuable to the user but, I prefer the AccuForce with titles like Dirt Rally where I can use SimCommander FFB in place of the game-FFB. I also achieved great results using SC4-FFB with PC1 (relative to game-FFB) but, have not played PC2. The AccuForce can provide very good detail and has the added benefit of more tuning options for those that want to explore them in various ways; combining game-FFB with SC4-FFB can enhance certain aspects of the game-FFB that may be lacking. Custom profiles can be created to achieve the FFB desired for certain car / track combinations and of course, work in harmony with SimVibe, motion, etc. I like to use some Engine-Vibes in FFB and it works really well with SimVibe too. If you don't want to spend a lot of time fiddling with FFB settings, the AF tuning options may not be that valuable to you but, there are ways to simplify those. In either case - eliminating FFB-signal clipping is vitally important; knowing how to recognize clipping and avoid it is paramount to enjoying best results (with any FFB system). Regarding smoothness, either system can feel smooth or grainy - depending on the tuning but, the OSW can run at higher torque levels and still feel smooth whereas the AF may feel grainy at or near it's highest output. For my use, the AF doesn't feel grainy at all when running at my normal strength settings (Game-FFB about 60-65%). The torque at those settings is above the capabilities of the mainstream wheels on the market but, for those that want to achieve output towards the higher end, the OSW is a better fit IMO. In terms of details, I feel the OSW can provide somewhat better detail overall but, the difference at moderate force levels can be difficult to notice without side by side comparisons. SC4 also offers some performance enhancements that may close any gaps further but, there may be some subtle trade-offs; I just haven't felt the need to explore those in great depth. If you suspect you would always question the AF's ability to provide best detail, that may be reason enough to go the OSW route. The OSW SimuCube (open source) firmware is currently undergoing major updates that may offer significant improvements in tuning options and performance but, I don't have access to the closed beta so I cannot reflect on actual feel but, early reports are positive. If more torque is important, then the OSW has the advantage with motor / PSU upgrade options being a plus, too. The community is great with information sharing and help so, they can fill in any gaps quite nicely. Please keep in mind that I do have some shoulder pain that keeps me from sustained high-torque sessions but, I also think I generally use torque levels that are reasonably comfortable for me while not displaying FFB-effects that are out of proportion in titles where certain effects may be exaggerated (Curb effects and/or off-track excursions for example). I'm not one to be concerned about achieving real-world race-car steering torque levels but, I want to achieve a good balance between what I perceive as being believable self-aligning-torque levels and providing good levels of useful information, detail and performance throughout the FFB range. I do think there is a point where more torque is not necessarily better, neither for performance (lap-times) or immersion but, the immersion factor is certainly more subjective and based on personal preference and in my case - either steering system can satisfy my FFB needs quite nicely. I suspect many OSW-wheel users eventually settle on force settings well below max capacity after the thrill of "More Power" wears off though, there is no denying that the DD-system advantage is still superb IMO. If you follow general trends within the DD-wheel segment, I'm certain you would find that more AF users switch to the OSW-type system than the inverse so that may be a good indicator of overall performance advantage being in favor of the OSW's but, it's not necessarily telling the whole story and there are always exceptions. Do your research and buy what makes the most sense, explore all it has to offer and enjoy what you buy. Either way, playing Sim's using Direct-drive is awesome.
  30. 1 point

    DSD Button Box/Panels vinyl decals

    Ok. You sold me. And I sent the link to a buddy and you probably sold him too.
  31. 1 point

    adding fans to sim rig

    these are what I'm using and exactly what you're looking for, (amazon link) 120mm AC fans that are built for cooling media units, are very quiet and move a lot of air, I'm very happy with 2 of them and I love fans.
  32. 1 point
    Yup. Sad fact about the current console generation... none of the wheel wheels that worked on previous generations are supported for the current generation. One of my primary reasons I left consoles behind and came back to PC.
  33. 1 point

    BattleGear´s DIY 80/20 Rig^^

    hi mates here after a couple month a bigger update... litte supplement: 2 month ago i build a full hydraulic hand brake with a real car caliper... if you want to know more check the DSD topic here a some pics now to the reason of my posting.. today i made a year after my last a new pedaldeck for my new (used) t3pa pro with load cell mod. its with pedals over 20 kilogramm... its still aluminium but it feels quite heavy metal the brakemod with the beefy 50 kg load cell... it feel like another pedal deck! the springs in accelerator and clutch will be replaced to. there are way to light... the ground idea of the deck the plate to hold the pros with the LC you put a lot of force to the angles... it has minimal play but the angle wil be replaced to an more stable one the deck in test state the heel plate is the old one. its funny that it fits perfect xD but it will be replaced to an diamond plate mounted to the rig^^ hope you enjoyed it^^ and with my new pedals im really happy
  34. 1 point
    Thanks for your reply! I actually managed to find something similar on the Staples website. The cost was pretty decent compared to similar options, too.
  35. 1 point

    PC Build For iRacing - Recommendations

    Project Cars is very demanding. Unfortunately, your budget is a bit on the light side for a triple monitor setup. While a GTX 1060 video card will do a decent job, I suggest a GTX 1070 if you want to be able to run triples with most/all of the eye candy. At least this is what I suggest to my customers (I have built well over 50 PCs in the past 24 months for folks in the Sim community). Unfortunately the GTX 1070 is a $400 video card (a GTX 1060 is a $250-$300 card depending on memory). If your building yourself that will help a little (although my builds are usually about the same cost as most can buy the components). Figure windows OS is $100 (if you already have a license then you won't have to worry about that. You will want to go with an i5 processor (the AMD FX processors are approximately 6yrs old now and aren't able to keep up with video cards like the GTX 1070. Jayz2Cents actually posted a video not to long ago showing the FX processor bottlenecking a GTX 1070 pretty good). For a current i5 processor and decent motherboard your looking at $270ish. 16GB memory is gonna tack on another $100. You could get buy with a single 1TB HDD (or smaller) for $45 but I strongly suggest at least a 120 GB SSD as well. The SSD makes track load so much faster. A decent PSU is gonna be $50-$75 (you could go with a cheaper unit for around $35-$40). Figure a case $35-$50. It doesn't take much and your approaching $1k. I charge $975 for an i5 6400 machine w/16GB ram, 1TB HDD, 120gb SSD, 650 watt modular PSU (I go with 650 to leave room for future upgrades), corsair Spec 01 case, windows 10 & a GTX 1050 ti. This system is great for a single monitor. But wouldn't run triples well at all. I am not trying to make a sale (I do my builds as a hobby and don't make much on them). I listed the information tonhelo give you an idea on what a good PC will run. You can find a machine for $500-$600 that will run triples, but it wouldn't run with all the graphics and it would be close to needing my an upgrade to keep up.....
  36. 1 point

    DSD Button Box/Panels vinyl decals

    If it weren't for me going VR, I'd jump on these quickly. They look great. Well done, man.
  37. 1 point

    T300RS something loose inside the rim

    You're talking about the "throw", the distance between rest and activated. I have a Logitech MOMO (hated it) but I didn't use it very much and haven't used it in many many years, so I can't really compare the 2. I do have a T300 and I have had times where I thought I had made a shift and either I did and the game/sim is slow to register or I didn't shift all the way. I do wish there was an after-market kit for the Thrustmaster paddle shifters that could shorten the throw. Something that could give a much more positive feedback that you've completed the shift to the point that the game/sim will detect it correctly
  38. 1 point
    I made the choice between these 2 and ended up with the V3. Big reasons were I live in AUS, the space which to Stage 3 needed, noise and looks of it in the front room of my house, and somewhat of a lesser one, cost. My V3 is awesome and racing has come alive for me. Hard to describe what a seat mover does for you but in VR, it's outstanding. I run the full gig too, so Simvibe with shakers, triples, full cockpit with the GT Ultimate V2 you mentioned, and VR also. Gear is Fanatec CSW V2 and V3 pedals, with shifter and handbrake. Good times. Need some free time to use it properly now!
  39. 1 point
    Hey guys, I'm a n00b here, please be nice I work in videogames as an Audio Designer, sadly no driving games yet! I'm 37, pretty bad racer, and a beginner at taking it vaguely seriously. I only currently own a PS4 and a T150 (don't kill me for this haha) but my next computer will be a PC instead of a Mac (thank god) and I really want to try something a bit more serious. On the PS4, I own AC, PCars, Dirt Rally, Driveclub, will buy GTS at some point soon. Been playing racers since Geoff Crammond's sterling work on the Amiga! So yeah, total n00b on the site, and in sim racing, but would like to learn! Cheers guys, Jon
  40. 1 point
    I'm really overwhelmed by the level and volume of constructive and valuable feedback here guys. I'm a car nut and I have never gotten so much feedback on any question posted on enthusiast forums I spend time on. So my main takeaway here is that OSW probably won't be beaten by Fanatec or Accuforce v2 in outright "performance". But also that the OSW even though it's sold as a turn-key system will require turning, even per car basis to extract the ultimate performance from the wheel. For me thats kind of a red light, because I already have enough dials between tuning the motion platform, pedals and the car-setup ect. I really like the Simxperience software so I will have to wait and see what how the review of the v2 because that could be the best compromise for me. I appreciate the input on how to mount the wheel to the Obutto rig. I think I'll just drill it. I have already franken-modded it when properly securing the fanatec shifter (the solution they provide is wobbly) and even more when attaching the NLR motion platform. I read somewhere that OSW might be allowed to use the SimCommander software. Is that just a rumor? My impatience for moving on from the Thrustmaster is a factor as well. I really want to get started on a DD wheel so I probably wont wait around for Fanatec and take the risk on a 1st gen product from them. Thanks again folks, you have really given me a lot to consider before making the jump. Hope to see you all out on the track
  41. 1 point
    SOLD Selling my Sam Maxwell Button plate with shifters. Will fit a Momo mod27, mod27c, mod27c 290mm and probably many more wheels. Has 8 buttons, 2 rotary encoders and paddle shifters. Works great especially for the New Ferrari 488 GTE. Asking $250 shipped in the US.
  42. 1 point

    adding fans to sim rig

    I have been working on this solution myself, I own a fanatec base and had my 7" screen mounted on it using an acrylic base that I designed myself and had someone laser cut it locally...., well, I figured that if I redesigned the base by adding a couple of fans on either side of the screen it would be great, so went the 3" blower route, got a couple of these (http://a.co/cjTxgTh) and hooked them up using 12v dc adapters, also had a new 1/2" thick acrylic mount cut for me, but soon discovered that while they do move a lot of air, they are very noisy, and even though the sound of the game drowns the noise, it still bothered me....I did more research and found out that if I added a potentiometer to the motors I could dial down the power and reduce the noise significantly while still moving a lot of air, it works pretty solid. Well, as we all know, these are sometimes never ending projects, so now I'm trying a new version with these AC powered fans (http://a.co/gdGgWIx), I'm going with the 120mm version (tried the 3" one but it's not enough air) they are mostly used for media equipment cooling and move tons of air and are very quiet. Should have a new mount built soon and will update.
  43. 1 point

    WTB, high end pedals

    As the title states I'm looking for a nice set of pedals.
  44. 1 point

    WTB, high end pedals

    I know, just thought before i pay retail id see if i could get a nice used set cheaper.. before i posted i was looking at the hpp 3p-prx pedals for $997.00.
  45. 1 point
    The RealGT prototype is finished. Please let me know if you have any questions.
  46. 1 point
    Prototype finished. Enjoy the video.
  47. 1 point
    Sorry guys been out of town, both are still for sale and i will separate, $200 for the rim , and 500 for the base... prices are obo...
  48. 1 point
    No problem Steve, I just don't want to upset Sam should he ever stumble across this thread. BTW Steve you inspired me to press ahead a little earlier than planned with a second Sam Maxwell wheel plate design. Check it out
  49. 1 point
    Chapter 6: Configuration and tests 1. Hardware configuration Download the SIMR-F1-Manager.exe configuration software package from the following address: http://www.simdisplay.net/downloads/SIMR-F1-Manager.zip Run the SIMR-F1-Manager.exe configuration program. If the following error message is displayed, check the USB connection between the SIMR-F1 display and the PC. USB connection problems can be debugged by first connecting the SIMR-F1 display to the PC using a standard USB cable connected to the USB socket on SIMR-F1 display. If it then works, your home made USB cable wiring is wrong. If not your SIMR-F1 display is broken ... SIMR-F1-manager main window: Select the Options/Setup/Encoders submenu Configure the quadrature encoders as displayed below 2 Stock Thrustmaster F1 wheel thumb quadrature encoders: those are connected to digital input 1-2 and 3-4. Therefore BTN 01 - 02 and BTN 03 - 04 are checked to treat these inputs as encoders. Frequency is set to 1:4 for both as these encoders generate 4 pulses for each click 3 CTS-288 quadrature encoders: those are connected to digital input 5-6, 7-8 and 9-10. Therefore BTN 05 - 06, BTN 07 - 08 and BTN 09 - 10 are checked. Frequency is set to 1:1 as these encoders generate 1 pulse for each click The debouncing time is set to 60ms, which is adequate for a manually operated quadrature decoder All the other checkboxes are left unchecked as digital input 11 to 32 are used as standard digital inputs 2. 12-way switches test Run the SIMR-F1-Manager.exe configuration program Select the Options/Test device/Switches submenu Check every position of each switch available in the drop-down list (2 for stage 1-2 and 3 for stage 3) 3. Digital inputs test Run the joystick control panel by typing "joy.cpl" in the search bar above the windows start button. You should see the following window: Select SIM Race F1 if rhere are several game controllers installed. Then click the Property button. The following window should be displayed: Quadrature encoders test Right hand thumb encoder: button 1-2 Left hand thumb encoder: button 3-4 Lower center encoder: button 5-6 Lower left encoder: button 7-8 Lower right encoder: button 9-10 Quadrature encoders should generate 1 pulse per encoder click. Odd numbered buttons should be pulsed for forward rotation of encoders and the corresponding even numbered buttons should be pulsed for reverse rotation of encoders Buttons, 3-way switches, d-pads and shifters test Center 3-way switch: button 11-12 Left hand 3-way switch: button 13-14 Right hand 3-way switch: button 15-16 Right hand buttons: button 17-20 Both d-pads: button 21-24 Left hand buttons: button 25-28 Shifters: button 29-30 4. Configuration of SIMR-F1 internal use of controls 12-way switches can't directly be used in-game, but they can be used to select variables displayed on the right and left 14 segments displays using SliMax Manager software package. Quadrature encoders and buttons can also be used to dynamically alter the way data is displayed on the SIMR-F1 To configure how the controls are used, run SliMax Manager From the Options menu, select Controls Mapping... 12-way switches Configuration parameters that need 12-way switches inputs are prefixed with SW. I wanted the upper left switch to control the SIMR-F1 left display (SWLEFTDIGITSCTRL = S1 SIMRACE-F1) and the upper right switch to control the SIMR-F1 right display (SWRIGHTDIGITSCTRL = S3 SIMRACE-F1). The Ferrari knob is used as a multifonction switch: each position of the switch selects a configuration file, allowing each control to behave differently for each switch position (SWDRIVINGCTRL = S2 SIMRACE-F1). In this case, buttons and encoders can't be used directly in-game as a HID control but should generate keypresses according to the switch position Quadrature encoders Configuration parameters that need quadrature encoder inputs are postfixed with CTRLUP and CTRLDOWN. I wanted the lower center quadrature encoder to adjust the SIMR-F1 brightness level. This encoder is generating button 9 pulses on forward rotation (BRIGHTNESSCTRLUP = B9 SIMRACE-F1) and button 10 pulses on reverse rotation (BRIGHTNESSCTRLDOWN = B10 SIMRACE-F1) Buttons Configuration parameters that need button inputs are postfixed with BTNCTRL. I wanted the quick info (QI) button to be the lower left button (QIBTNCTRL = B18 SIMRACE-F1) To select the variable displayed on the SIMR-F1 displays as a function of the 12-way switch position selected above, from the Options menu, select Advanced Options..., then expand the SIMRACEF1 tag in the settings list. Double-click F1LEFTDIGITSPANELS or F1RIGHTDIGITSPANELS to set the variable displayed for each switch position To select the variables displayed on the left and right 14 segments displays while the QI button is depressed, from the Options menu, select Advanced Options..., then expand the SIMRACEF1 tag in the settings list. Click F1QIFUNCTIONLEFT or F1QIFUNCTIONRIGHT to set the variable displayed To set the brightness of the SIMR-F1 display, from the Options menu, select Advanced Options..., then expand the BRIGHTNESS tag. There you can set the maximum brightness (MAXBRIGHTNESS), the initial brightness at startup (GLOBALBRIGHTNESS) and the brightness steps (BRIGHTSTEP) for each forward and reverse click of the above selected encoder To display a state variable on a given LED, being it one the 6 built-in LEDs or one of the 7 external LEDs, from the Options menu, select Advanced Options..., then expand the LED tag. For each of the state variables in the list (there are many), one LED to display the state can be chosen. One LED can therefore display several functions. I am using LEDSPEEDLIMITER on 4, LEDREVLIMIT on 2, LEDOPTIMALSHIFTPOINTRIGHT on 6 and LEDOPTIMALSHIFTPOINTLEFT on 1 and LEDLOWFUEL on 3 5. Configuration of SIMR-F1 external (game) use of controls The SIMR-F1 display is seen by the PC as a HID device. Some kind of joystick incorporating 2 axis (both analog inputs) and 32 buttons (quadrature encoders and buttons). All these inputs can be directly mapped in-game Each action on each input connected to the SIMR-F1 display (or even other HID devices) can the be translated into key presses by the SliMax software package To generate keypresses each time a given switch changes position, from the Options menu, select Advanced Options..., then expand the SIMRACEF1 tag and click SW1CHARSMAPPING for switch 1. Then click true/yes to activate the function To define the keypresses generated when a given switch changes position, click SW1CHARS. Then, in the following table fill out the keypress sequences including modifiers (shift/ctrl/alt) and delays for each switch position To generate keypresses each time a given button is pressed or a given encoder is rotated, from the Options menu, select Advanced Options..., then expand the SIMRACEF1 tag and click BUTTONCHARSMAPPING. Then click true/yes to activate the function To define the keypresses generated when a given button is pressed or a given encoder is rotated, click BTNCHARLIST. Then, in the following table fill out the keypress sequences including modifierw (shift/ctrl/alt) and delays for each button/encoder Back to Table of Content
  50. 1 point
    Chapter 5: Wiring 1. SIMR-F1 display wiring diagram Despite its small size, the SIMR-F1 display can be connected to many input and output devices: 32 buttons or 16 quadrature encoders (1 quadrature encoder takes 2 inputs) 9 12-way switches 2 analog inputs 7 LEDs All these inputs and outputs have to be connected to the SIMR-F1 display using connector 1 and connector 2. I would recommend buying the SIMR-F1 cable set from SimDisplay (http://www.simdisplay.net/SIMR-F1-Colored-Cable-Set) as wiring directly to the connectors on the SIMR-F1 connectors won't be practical. All the wiring information displayed below can be found in the SIMR-F1 manual that can be downloaded at http://www.simdisplay.net/downloads/SRF1_Manual.pdf Input/output connectors wiring diagram Connector 1 Connector 2 Wiring buttons to the SIMR-F1 display Buttons are very easy to connect to SIMR-F1 display as a button input is considered 1 when not connected and 0 when connected to ground. Therefore one terminal of the button is connected to the input, the other one to ground: Connector pins - Ground: connector 1 pin 1 - Button input: connector 1 pins 2-25 and connector 2 pins 1-8 Wiring quadrature encoders to the SIMR-F1 display Quadrature encoders are connected as 2 buttons: 2 digital inputs tied or not to ground depending on angular position of the encoder. Be aware both digital input used for an encoder have to be consecutive as displayed on the connector 1 wiring diagram above. Decoding the quadrature digital signals is performed by the SIMR-F1 internal software as explained in chapter 6. The USB HID signals generated are pulses on the first button for forward rotation of the encoder and pulses on the second button for reverse rotation of the encoder When using connectors to connect the encoders to the wiring loom, the best option is to connect ground to the center pin. It make it easy to exchange forward and reverse buttons just by reversing the connectors. Connector pins - Ground: connector 1 pin 1 - Encoder inputs: connector 1 pins 2-3, 4-5, 6-7, 8-9, 10-11, 12-13, 14-15, 16-17, 18-19, 20-21, 22-23, 24-25 and connector 2 pins 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8 Wiring 12-way switches to the SIMR-F1 The SIMR-F1 12-way switch is an active component that generates a digital signal depending on the angular position of the switch. Being a active component, it needs a ground and a +5V connection. This switch is not compatible with Leo Bodnar's 12-way switch which uses a fully analog technology. Be careful to not reverse +5V and ground connection as it could detroy the switch Connector pins - Ground: connector 1 pin 1 - +5V: connector 1 pin 26 - switch input: connector 2 pins 11-19 2. Cutting the main PCB of the Thrustmaster F1 wheel When using the upper additional input device spots to fit 12-way switches, the main PCB of the wheel won't fit as the switches are too tall. The easiest way to keep the stock operation of the wheel (to keep compatibility with the T500RS/PS3 or TX/OneBox combo) is to cut out unused parts of the main PCB Using the following template, only 8 straight cut with a Dremel cut-off wheel are needed. The existing holes are used as guides and so the cuts are really straightforward. Be careful not to cut any PCB track between both vertical cuts The cut Thrustmaster F1 wheel main PCB should look like this: 3. Input devices connectors To be able to remove the back cover of the wheel from the front cover, to be able to remove a single button/encoder/switch without desoldering, to be able to perform tests easily, every button/encoder/switch has to be connected to the display through a connector Standard connectors can't be used as they are much too large given the limited space inside the wheel. I tried 2 types of miniature connectors that take little space: 1.27mm pitch headers and 2.54mm pitch headers. The 1.27 pitch header connectors I found, although they were really tiny, could not be cut to length and were not tight enough. I finally used 2.54mm pitch headers: they are larger but easier to solder, very tight and easy to cut to length 4. Stage 1 wiring For stage 1, the idea was to keep the main PCB and keep as much as possible stock inputs connected to the main PCB. Among the stock inputs, only the following have been connected to the SIMR-F1 display: Both stock thumb encoders. When the wheel was used on a Thrustmaster TX wheel base, under high FFB conditions the stock encoder inputs on the main PCB triggered randomly which was very annoying. By moving the encoders to the display, the problem disappeared All 3 lower switches. Although these are 3-way switches, the upper and lower positions being connected together on the daughter PCB, only 2-way operation is available: open or closed. The daughter PCB has been removed and 6 digital inputs of the display have been used for 3-way operation of the switches: open, closed 1 or closed 2 Additional inputs connected to the display: 2 12-way switches 3 quadrature encoders Stage 1 wiring diagram Stage 1 wiring loom: the stage 1 wiring loom as pictured below has been wired according to the stage 1 wiring diagram. On the diagram, it is easily noticed that all inputs need a ground wire. This is the most difficult part of the wiring, because on a single pin there are often several ground wires that need to be connected together. I chose to not connect ground wires together in the wiring loom, but routed the ground wire to a connector pin and from there to the next one and so on. Every wire to a connector if fitted with its heat shrink (10mm length) to avoid any risk of electrical short circuit Inputs to be connected to the SIMR-F1 display are wired to male connectors. I chose to do so to avoid having dangling +5V wires in case a connector gets loose. There is no risk with a wrong connection except with the 12-way switches, because they are powered by the display. I used specific blue colored wire for all +5V connections to make it easy to check. Every wire to a connector if fitted with its heat shrink (10mm length) to avoid any risk of electrical short circuit Inputs are connected to the wiring loom. Wiring loom is connected to the SIMR-F1 display There is just enough space for the cut main PCB. Be careful not to pinch wires between the encoders and the PCB 5. Stage 2 wiring The stage 1 wiring was working but there were 2 major problems: To remove the 3-way switches from daughter PCB the switches had to be heated up too much, which led to random operation of the switches. Therefore I replaced all 3 of them The SliMax Manager software package used to control the display doesn't recognize the Thrustmaster TX wheel base as a HID device. So the stock wheel inputs can't be used to operate SIM-F1 functions: for example the Quick Info button can't be a stock Thrustmaster TX button (EDIT: working from version 3.4.2) As the wheel isn't used on a console, I decided to remove the main PCB and to wire all the inputs to the SIMR-F1 display, for a total of: 8 buttons 2 d-pads (on the same inputs) 5 quadrature encoders 3 3-way switches 2 12-way switches 2 shifter paddles Stage 2 wiring diagram: it is based on the stage 1 wiring diagram. Buttons, D-pads and shifters connections are added to the wiring loom. Both D-pads (left and right) are connected together, as dual d-pad functionality is not useful: 4 digital inputs are saved by doing so. Be aware that on both D-pads the ground/common wire is the green wire not the black one! Stage 2 wiring: it becomes tight. Connectors take up a lot of space 6. Stage 3 wiring For stage 3, I decided to add full functionality to the center multifunction Ferrari knob for several reasons: The main PCB having been removed, there was now space to mount an additional 12-way switch below the Ferrari knob I really didn't like the idea to have a fully functional wheel, except one knob: the most visible one, the Ferrari knob. When touching the wheel, most people try to operate that knob first There were still many 12-way switch inputs available Stage 3 wiring diagram: it is based on the stage 2 wiring diagram. Only 3 additional wires are linking the Ferrari knob 12-way switch to the SIMR-F1 display 7. USB cable wiring What kind of USB cable? Using a standard USB cable to connect the wheel to the PC is not very practical as it is dangling down most of the time. It cannot be shortened as the cable must be long enough to wrap the wheel hub when reseting the wheel base. A coiled USB cable is a much better choice, being very extensible. I used the following 50cm cable, 3m streched USB cable wiring The USB be cable must be cut and soldered to the SIMR-F1 ribbon cable connected to the alternative USB socket according to the following wiring diagram: Finished cable: Wheel rear cover disassembly The 4 screws fastening the spring cover are removed (center of the picture) Springs and rocker shifter are removed Wheel hub and rear cover are then disassembled Cutting the hub and the rear cover The wheel hub is then cut open using a Dremel 3mm milling tool as pictured below A slot is cut on the lower side of the rear cover of the wheel in front of the hub opening using the Dremel milling tool The USB cable is placed in the slot. The cable is routed through the hub opening. The hub can then be mounted back on the rear wheel cover For stage 2 and stage 3 mods, as the main PCB is removed, the PS2 connector linking the main PCB to the wheel base can be safely removed. To do so, simply remove the screws on each side of the PS2 connector (see picture above) and remove the connector Alternative routing Alternatively, the USB cable can be routed to the top of the wheel below the rocker paddle on the rear cover. This routing takes up less space inside of the wheel and eases the closing of the wheel 8. Closing the wheel The wheel should close without applying any force. If it is not the case, then a wire is pinched between a switch and the rear cover or a wire is pinched between front and rear cover or a rib is touching a 12-way switch If you experience a 12-way switch not switching or switching randomly when the wheel is closed, it is usually due to pressure applied to the PCB of the switch by a pinched wire or a rib Back to Table of Content