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    • Darin Gangi

      ISRTV Amazon Store   11/29/16

      Hi All, We created an Amazon store that's pretty basic and currently only for U.S. shoppers. If you purchase something from it and then other items through Amazon, we make a small commission. It won't cost anymore than Amazon normally does but will help support our show and website and would be greatly appreciated ! You can get to it by going here : http://www.isrtv.com/isrtv-amazon-store/ Thank for your support !
    • Darin Gangi

      Thrustmaster TS-PC / T3PA Pro Contest   02/14/17

      Check it out here:  


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/27/17 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Darin Gangi

    Thrustmaster TS-PC Racer & T3PA Pro Giveaway !

    Inside Sim Racing and Thrustmaster are giving you an opportunity to win the ultimate Thrustmaster Sim Racing package for the PC. You have a chance to win the new Thrustmaster TS-PC Racer and a set of T3PA Pro pedals, a prize package worth almost $700! The TS-PC Racer is a powerhouse of technologies created to enhance gaming performance and offer a racing experience closer to reality, enabling gamers to be fully immersed. Thrustmaster TS-PC Servo base is ECOSYSTEM-READY. Retail value: $500.00 The T3PA-Pro realistic, high end 3-PEDAL set offers 2 different positions (floor-mounted or suspended) 100% metal and 100% adjustable and includes 2 different removable brake modifications. (Spring Brake Mod + Conical Rubber Brake Mod). Retail value: $150.00 To win, you'll need to be a member of the forums at http://www.isrtv.com/forums and then email us at contest@insidesimracing.tv with this information: Real Name: Location (Country / State / City): You also need to answer these four questions correctly: 1) What’s material is used on the TS-PC racers open wheel grip? 2) What’s the shape of the external turbo power supply? 3) How many watts in the brushless motor? 4) What does F.O.C. stand for in relation to the TS-PC Racer? ONE ENTRY PER EMAIL ADDRESS / FORUM MEMBER Deadline for entry is February 28th 2017. The person that has submitted their name and location and answered all four questions correctly will be chosen at random and notified via email and announced on the March 1st edition of This Week Inside Sim Racing. Tune in live to see if you won this great sim racing package from Thrustmaster. You must email contest@insidesimracing.tv to enter.
  2. 3 points

    144HZ triple monitors

    TL;DR version - maybe don't get those monitors because the DP adapters can be pretty expensive. Just look for something with DP already because your card has 3 DP ports. Long version: Stay away from HDMI for this - 1.3 can do it, but it does not appear that this monitor has 1.3. They would be advertising that up front; I'd bet hard money they have 1.2. So, you will need a Dual Link DVI-D cable for one monitor + 2 Active DisplayPort to Dual Link DVI-D adapters for the other 2. These converters can get expensive. I would price out the converters before you pull the trigger on the monitors. You may find they are not such a great deal after all. This is what I've found searching for a couple of minutes: https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Active-Adapter/dp/B00DYRQXMK for $33. I would recommend shopping for monitors with DisplayPort since you have 3 of them on the card. For example -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DHTWZRQ/ref=psdc_1292115011_t3_B00KO4518I @ $189 $189 * 3 = $567 $179 * 3 + 2 * $33 = $603 So, the $10 lower price is a false savings. The example is a Freesync monitor (doesn't hurt or help you with the 1070), but you may even be able to find one without Freesync for even less. Plus one less part to troubleshoot/break.
  3. 3 points

    Ferrari SF15-T F1 Steering Wheel Replica

    Today I'm going to share what's been for me a very ambitious sim steering wheel project. This project started late 2015 but has been on indefinite hiatus since last summer. The amount of money and time that went into this is almost embarrassing but as a perfectionist getting all the details right meant sacrifice. It's hard to put a number on what percent complete it is or how much additional effort it would take to complete. I have a pretty big catalog of reference photos that I would obsess over to get details that would have me reworking and customizing parts several times over. Additionally some of the best photos show Ferrari wheels with alternate parts or Kimmi's wheel instead of Vettel's and the two are vastly different upon close inspection. There's really no end to it. The display and led electronics have all been prototyped from scratch and are working but currently do not fit into the wheel so a custom circuit was being designed to accommodate that. Currently this display only works with F1 2016. You can see the PCU-8D housing and working display in the photos below. The quick release has no matching male hub counterpart yet, nor do I have any wiring set up either. This was where I really ran out of steam and just needed to take a break. The carbon fiber is, of course, all real and rigid and light as one would expect. The shifter is no exception and provides just the right amount of rotation and spring-loaded tension with a satisfying click when it engages the contact buttons. I've played with carbon fiber before but this was a learning process getting it just like the real thing in terms of pattern and finish and I had to devise some of my own techniques to achieve the desired effects especially given my limited tools and resources. The photos below show the wheel in its current state. I've indulged myself with mostly photos of the back as it is the side that the most time was spent on and, for me, a beautiful piece of engineering if you geek out on that sort of thing. One admission, the display is not wired up for the reasons mentioned previously so the display graphics you see in the first photo are superimposed. I've provided one reference photo comparison to show the level of detail I went to. Enjoy.
  4. 3 points

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    I noticed that too with the Mini in Greece ,,, Although at the time i was thinking i must of had a saved profile in practice or something but i guess its the same for everyone if you guys experienced it too,,
  5. 3 points

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    I think the way i setup the event with no tuning and service area the car behave very different in live stage than practice and there is no time to adjust since is one time shot deal. Yesterday in Oberstein practice i recall to take all or most of hairpin and tights in 1rst gear while on live run second gear was the way to go.
  6. 3 points

    TS-PC Racer

    Hey I decided to pick with the ts-pc racer instead of getting a fanatec csl setup. Ive had a tx/t300 and fanatec v1 in the past. Ive preferred fanatec due to the build quality/feeling of the rims. I found it more immersive and the wheel felt more substantial. I never like the toyish feeling of the tx and to a lesser extent t300. All that being said my initial impression of the ts-pc is that I am very satisfied. The rim although Im not really a fan of formula rims is really solid and feels more like a proper wheel. The base is also sharp, feels solid...just the overall quality is higher than I was expecting. Ive looked around for more user/joe shoe reviews from people like myself but havent found much so ive decided to share. Im going to get things up and running here and Ill give you some feedback on the actual performance from a scrub like myself.
  7. 3 points

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    I'm very happy to see this league to live on Thanks for keeping it alive TT, but it is indeed about more or less regular participants - as long as they keep running, the league would be doing well
  8. 2 points

    F1 Style - Wood/8020 Hybrid

    Started with Steve Spenceley's basic f1 cockpit plans and let it evolve naturally
  9. 2 points


    This is their legit account. Same account as they are within the KartKraft official forums, as well as for those who had Closed Beta Keys (which were via Steam). Guess in theory I'm still under NDA... but I will say that the "closed beta" was an extremely painful process. Just more lack of communication from the project... just like when it was first announced (oh so long ago) as KartSim. Upon release of the keys there was about 3-5 quick updates provided (within a month window)... than they went silent. Within the internal beta forum it was apparent that there was later created a 2nd tier of internal closed beta testers (likely those with most hours played, and most valuable feedback provided in that first month or two of the larger beta). But even few of this group said on the beta forums it has been long time since even their last update or communication. That said, without going in to too much detail (to be fair to the NDA), KartKraft has huge potential. I'm not holding my breath... it'll happen, when it will happen... and I will likely buy on day one when it hits Early Access.
  10. 2 points

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    I need to take a forced week off from the league because i really exaggerate with the activities this weekend (skiing - snowmobiling and shoveling a meter of snow from the roof of my friend's country cottage) Since all this actions and not very frequent on my schedule and the old age, my back is really in bad shape and i can barely walk and work. So for this week i am just a spectator and good luck Mates!
  11. 2 points

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    @KaydenX0rZ Love your closing quote!
  12. 2 points

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    I agree with @Spriggsy, however I did do a run at sweet lamb in the Audi because I haven't driven the groub B cars yet - I'm only up to 60's and 70's, open and clubman in the single player. I'm a pretty late comer to Dirt Rally. Of course... you could probably tell that by my stage times. The event today was fun, except that I punctured the right front tire in the first sector. Dirt Rally. I've never had so much fun being so terrible at something.
  13. 2 points

    Porsche button plate replica's now available

    Add buttons today... Now working on the new enclosures.
  14. 2 points
    The biggest difference between sim racing and real racing, is real competitors have sized up the competition. They have likely had time to look into their history somewhat, and know their driving style to a degree. Therefore, the drivers know how aggressive they can be on the track to take advantage of their weaknesses. As sim racers, we dont have that luxury. We go into each race most likely racing complete strangers, with no time to look up stats or look at previous drivers races to see how they race and learn their weaknesses. Therefore, it is my opinion that caution must be taken when around other drivers on track. Maybe my approach is too "soft", but I'd rather not cause a wreck. My strategy has worked for me so far, as I am in A class in both road and oval on iRacing. Been a member since 2012. Just my point of view.
  15. 2 points

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    Also struggling with clean runs in the live stage, everything goes well in practice with consistent runs; as soon as I hit the live stage I screw up everything, braking points, corner entries, lines, everything. Sigh. On a side note, I just purchased the new Iracing Porsche Cup car, what a fun drive, made IR interesting again. Keep up the good work TT!
  16. 2 points

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    Another bummer today.. this week i am having problems with clean runs and is not happening So I resumed the Weekly league event and for the new comers please join https://www.dirtgame.com/us/leagues/league/18526/insidesimracing Since the WRC circus is moving to Sweden this weekend, that was an easy pick for me to choose.
  17. 2 points

    Sebj's 80/20 Motion Chassis - Work in Progress

    Happy to report a bit of progress. I am still waiting on hardware from china, hoping screws didnt get lost in the mail...so far everything is trickling in. I wanted to show how nicely powder coated my steel plates are (designed by Steve) and I started putting my button box together. That means countersinking for my M3 screws. i had to wait for these special bits from China but well worth it as they work great.
  18. 2 points

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    As usual I enjoied the week and some cars at standard setup were very interesting.. especially the MG that in germany really act as a FWD and more you step on the gas on bends more it hold.. With DOYA , Grumpy and Spriggsy missing all or few events the silver place was relatevely easy to obtain and i was lucky enough to win even one event. Now is time to setup the next challenge and go back to my motion project that start taking shape.. Good luck everybody..
  19. 2 points

    Triple Screen Hood Project

    I came up with a sweet new design for my hood that i was sure would eliminate any stress what-so-ever and also improve the aesthetics. First I needed magnets. Not far from my home I found a magnet outlet, http://aussiemagnets.com.au/ (you can order online) 12 x RARE EARTH - http://aussiemagnets.com.au/product/-25-x---8mm-Pot-with-5mm-Thread-%26-8mm-Boss-(Rare-Earth).html Washers I purchased from Bunnings (Aussie hardware store) - not sure what i paid for these! as well as the Brackets.. https://www.bunnings.com.au/carinya-20-x-200-x-1mm-flat-make-a-bracket_p3975816 https://www.bunnings.com.au/carinya-20-x-600-x-1mm-flat-make-a-bracket_p3975874 Black Project Card from my local stationary outlet OfficeWorks. http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/p/quill-project-card-210gsm-black-5-pack-qu5pkbrdbk So, the idea is to attach the 200mm brackets directly to the vesa mounts between the monitors and the stand. Take the longer brackets bend to the appropriate angle, this will vary depending on the size of your monitors and the angle between the monitors. And attach the magnets using the washers. Cut project board to size (once again depending of monitor size and angle between monitors), attach brackets. After all 3 separate hoods were to mounted to their monitors, i positioned them so that the edges touched (sorry no photos) then ran a strip of tape to join them all together. Finally, i taped a strip of card at the back to cover the visible gap between monitor and hood and the job is done! Thanks for you time.
  20. 2 points

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    Yes Mate nevertheless the ups and down moment i am still running regularly and still improving. Yesterday Manta@Finland a pure blast with that springy suspensions. i struggled to understand how to approach the tight left toward the end (Handbrake or no Handbrake dilemma) and of course on the real run i decided for handbrake and i guess was not the right choice since i hug few spectators. That car is a real mistery.. a RWD that understeer while braking..very bizarre!
  21. 2 points
    Hey guys, Just figured I would make an informative post for my first. I picked up a set of Fanatec Clubsport V3's yesterday, brand new in box. I brought them home, switched to the D pedals (Because race car right?) and downloaded the software and installed. They worked fine, calibrated fine but I was prompted for a firmware update. So I proceeded to go through with it and the software froze. Now I understand this is a issue on Windows 10. I called the Simracing store I purchased them from and he informed me that they're bricked and the PCB Requires replacement. Great right? He said he would do it no charge as I just purchased them, but impatient me was on a mission to get them working. Now when I plugged them, there was an audible windows noise, so obviously it was picking them up. I figured the only way to get the FWUpdater software to open was if they were recognized, but that's not true as it's software, so there has to be an .exe file somewhere. I searched for the Fanatec folder which the default location is C:/Program Files/Fanatec/Fanatec Wheel . In there you will find the FWClubsportPedalsV3updater (The name changes with the version but it's similar, you'll see in a sec) Now you're unable to select another .hex file (Which is your firmware) so it is obviously embedded in the updater. You'll notice if the pedals are unplugged it will notify you in the updater, and if you plug them in, it recognizes that also, which is GREAT! Because they aren't "Bricked". They are actually just stuck in "Bootloader Mode". If they don't show up, then you're kinda screwed. I tried using my Windows 7 laptop to update them, and to my surprise the FWupdater actually was successful. Except they wouldn't show up under game controllers. So I tried about 10 different firmware updates and eventually one worked. So if you try to to update, with the latest (Which right now is V261) it won't work in Windows 10. So what you need to do is download the 222 Beta firmware and use a Windows 7 machine to update them. (If 222 doesn't work then 260 should Download it Here (260 Beta)) During this whole process, I submitted a RMA ticket with Fanatec and about 12 hours later got a reply stating they would send me a new PCB Controller free of charge. I replied back with my solution and asked if I should update to firmware 1.8 as being prompted in the Fanatec calibration software. (I will update with their reply). I know this has happened to a few people, as the store I bought them off of was not surprised. I'm currently using Windows 10 Ultimate 64bit. I'm not sure if that helps. But I just wanted to inform everyone in case they run into the same issue. On a side note, I've been using them all day and they're absolutely amazing in comparison to my T3PA Pro's. I will be picking up a Fanatec wheel in the near future! Happy racing guys, Sam
  22. 2 points

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    Awesome news! I've never spent much time in the forums but seeing as the ISRTV daily has become a regular of mine I'll make sure I remain an active forum member too.
  23. 2 points

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    Spriggsy here (got to figure out how to change my name in this forum!) Hopefully you decide to continue running this league Turbo, it is by far one of my favourites. If not hopefully someone takes the reins. I'd offer but I only just have time to get all the online challenges and a few league races done as it is.
  24. 2 points

    Trying VR then switched back to Monitor's ?

    I recently went thru this dilema myself. After many years of racing on a single 32 inch LCD, I finally switched to triple 1440p GSync monitors. I enjoyed it for about a week and wondered how I had raced for so long with one screen. Soon after this I decided to buy an Oculus Rift to see for myself if it was better than my new triple setup. The moment I put on the headset and drove a few laps in Assetto Corsa I knew the triples were the wrong choice. The sense of immersion was absolutely mindblowing. It was shocking. It's something you have to try yourself. The only way to explain it is it's as if you climbed inside your monitor and into the car. It's a awesome experience as long as your stomach can handle it. I'm fortunate that I don't have any problems with racing sims. I tried a rollercoaster demo and that I definitely had a problem with. Obviously I highly recommend VR, but you need to try it before making a decision. Good luck with your build.
  25. 2 points
    Ok, so after all this attention I thought I might update my thread. Got a slimline tv wall mount kit from the hardware store, bolted it to the back of the case mounted it sideways so the wires face down, this means the PROSIMU control unit USB cable could plug directly into my PC, I did run it from a HUB before and it was working with a 1m cable but when I went to a 1.5 metre cable things started slowing down. so direct it was! Wall mounting it saved precious floor space in the room! Also was worried about the power draw from this room so I got the sparky to run a dedicated powerline to it, also gave the other side of the power too, changed the double point to a Quad as well (not pictured) Now because we positioned the machine straight on the wall I ran out of room for my trophy cabinet a quick trip to Ikea and I got these wall mountable shelves more floor space freeing up! It also free stands as well and was narrow enough so one went back in the original area. My spare machine got an upgrade too, CSL elite base with universal hub, still using the g27 pedals at the moment, will grab the CSL pedals in the new year I think. The third machine actually belongs to one of my mates he has been slowly building his machine up. leaves it at my house because he has kids and its much more fun to race together in the same room anyways he bought himself a nice Christmas present this year, Fanatec CSL wheelbase and v3 pedals, universal hub and GT rim. He is an engineer by trade and designed and built the TV stand you can see, made me one too! Thanks Andrew Still a bit of work to do with this setup as the amount of flex in the Next Level GT ultimate is crazy! The 4th machine, all the hardware belongs to me except for the frame belongs to my other friend. it got a bit of an upgrade too, things just move down the chain in this room it got the DSD button plate and upgraded rim for the g27. Have a 4k 55" tv coming tomorrow and will mount it on the stand Andrew built this weekend. I cant believe how cheap it is now 4k 55" for 499 AUD so cheap! Also took advantage of Fanatecs black Friday sale and bought the hand brake, installed it to the side with PROSIMU's option plate, just poked the screws thru the t1000 cut out on the side, no drilling necessary! That's about it for now. I think I might put some dark rock like wallpaper on the walls to get the whole cave look going soon. ill leave you with a pic of Andrew racing, a video of the machine in action and the room, also show you guys how to get in and out!
  26. 1 point
    Seth Francis

    SimuCUBE+Clubsport Rims Plug & Play

    Hey guys, I thought I would share this project here. I am not sure that I can give an exact guide as I found this on the iracing forum but I will post the link to the iracing thread and if anyone has any questions feel free to contact me and I will lead you to all of the necessary information. I take no credit for the Teensy USB conversion portion of this project as it is all another persons work. I simply came up with my own way of utilizing this adapter by mounting outside of the rim. Ok, my goal was to convert my current Fanatec rim as well as any future fanatec rim I may use to USB. The caveat was I only wanted to purchase one USB adapter and I did not want disassembly or modification of the rims to be required. I also wanted to complete this project for less than $20 (not including rim). While most of this project will be difficult for others to complete due to certain parts being difficult to obtain the actual USB conversion aspect may be interesting in itself. The adapter I used is the teensyLC ($17 on ebay) wired and loaded with firmware according to this thread at iracing:http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3343242.page There is also a github guide here about the teensy based USB conversion: https://github.com/darknao/btClubSportWheel I started with my SimuCUBE direct drive system. I purchased this kit from Tomo at Sim Racing Bay therefore I am lucky enough to have the Fanatec base side QR adapter he makes. This is one of the components which is required and also difficult to obtain unless you happen to have purchased your DD setup from Sim Racing Bay. The next item I had on hand was a spare Fanatec base side wiring harness. Of course I also had the CSW rim I was converting. So, in order to use one adapter with multiple rims the adapter itself needed to be outside of the rim and be able to connect to the rim using the standard wiring harness/plug that is inside the rim from the factory. This is where the base side harness comes in. Instead of wiring my adapter to the rim PCB directly or to a JST 2.0 8 pin connector and plugging it into the rims PCB I decided to solder my adapter to the spare base side harness I had lying around. I could then fit this harness inside the Fanatec base side QR which came with my DD system. Fortunately Tomo machined these adapters to precise tolerances and there is also a lip machined inside the hub at the perfect point for the plug to rest. This allows the harness fit snugly inside the custom Fanatec QR and also allows the plug to rest against the lip at the perfect depth. When the rim is installed the plugs mate perfectly, and connection is made. This solved the problem of being able to attach various Fanatec rims quickly and easily with only one USB adapter. Next was the concern of housing the USB adapter. What I decided to do was utilize a steering wheel spacer. I was planning on moving my motor back anyways so I already had this on order. This piece is not in the photos as it has not yet arrived but I will update the project pictures once it is completed. You will be able to see in the pics how the adapter will be housed inside the spacer. Basically the spacer will mount to the custom Fanatec QR and allow enough space for the USB adapter to fit inside comfortably. The other side of the spacer will mount to the split bushing on the motor axle. Between the motor split bushing and the steering wheel spacer there will be 6 5mm bolt spacers. These will create a gap between the motor and steering wheel spacer so the USB cable can fit through. I will fasten the USB cable to the spacer in some fashion to prevent and tension on the micro USB connection during use. Of course I will be using a typical coiled USB cable. And that all there is to it, I will have a hub mounted on the axle of my motor that will allow me to mount any stock Non Modified CSW rim or hub (excluding the Xbox hub) directly to my direct drive wheel and maintain button and LED functionality. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. Here are the pics I have so far, as you can see the adapter is covered in heat shrink tubing for protection. The red heat shrink is only covering the unused wires for safety. I will add more pics once the spacer arrives and I can move further with the project. This is the spacer I will use to house the adapter.
  27. 1 point

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    @Spriggsy Have a nice trip mate and i will miss you since recently you are the only one that worries me.. This week i really killed and definitely i was on fire for my standard but with a couple of elements missing from the competition i cannot realy giggle more than that.. I already setup for the coming week so good luck everybody!!
  28. 1 point
    John Sabol

    GPUs, Triple Monitors, and One Noob

    My 1070 does pretty well. Being held back by the CPU atm. http://www.isrtv.com/first-look/gigabyte-gtx-1070-windforce-oc-first-look/
  29. 1 point
    Darren Ralph


    I found a post on Steam about the Kartkraft release date. I couldn't verify the author(KK-Alpha), but sounds legit. As it gets asked a lot, i thought i'd pass the post on. http://steamcommunity.com/app/406350/discussions/0/133256959376796766/
  30. 1 point
    Dmitry Rykov

    My new cockpit setup

    Cockpit review RR Gameseat 3033 Raceroom
  31. 1 point

    VR & mixed reality

    So I am a bit confused, Am I correct in saying that he green screen is only useful for video capture and external viewing ? The VR player does not see anything differently?
  32. 1 point

    SHH Shifter

    Just got this in today's mail Can't wait to try it out! 6spd, 7spd, Seq Shifter https://www.facebook.com/shiftershh/ http://www.shiftershh.es/en.html Slottrak
  33. 1 point
    Mark Spruell

    Total noob needs driving advice

    I don't have a lot of time to get into your video right now, but I can go over a few things I see right off the bat. First, I would get rid of the H-shifter and clutch right now. Focus on smooth and consistent braking, steering and hitting apexes. The shifter is messing up your braking in a big way. Let's just look at the turn 1- 2 complex on both laps. First, your braking is erratic.....you stab the brake for about a second then come off for nearly 2 seconds....you'd never do this in a real car....real drivers stay on the brakes as they downshift . Like I said, get rid of the shifter and just work on getting smooth consistent braking all the way to the apex of the first turn. I don't really know how much this car requires trail-braking (holding the brakes on a bit while beginning the turn, as you mentioned), but most GT cars require a fair bit.....and you really aren't doing any trail-braking (all your braking is in a straight line). I suspect that the mechanics of down-shifting are getting in the way. Once you get rid of the down shifting issue, focus on feeling the car and the limits and try to hold near the limit of adhesion (just before the car skids). Many beginning racers think you have to go over the limit to be fast, but the reality is that the really fast drivers are very smooth while staying close to the limit. You are correct that you are well below the limit most of the time, though you were also late on the brakes a few times.....which leads to skids and being below the limit due to a lack of smoothness. In order to get a feel for the limit, you need to find a car that you can really feel, and I doubt that is going to be the M3 GT4. Sadly, PCars is not known for its great road feel. It's not horrible, and can be quite good with some tweaking, but it's not in the same league as iRacing, Rfactor or even Live for Speed. That said, in PC (like most sims), it is much easier to feel the limit in cars that are on narrow or street type tires. I'd go for the formula rookie or one of the street cars (BMW 1M coupe, Ford Focus RS). Finally, watch the Virtual Racing School videos on youtube (and get a membership while they are free). They focus on iRacing, but the techniques are clearly explained and each track is discussed in detail. Take a look at this video....I would look for a car / track combination in their videos that you can match up with in PC (it doesn't have to be an exact match, the Focus RS and Laguna Seca would be good enough), though Laguna Seca is probably tougher than you should start with.
  34. 1 point

    New! OSR EVO 1 - Magnetic Paddle Shifters

    Here's some photos of the newest OSR product available from our website, these high quality magnetic paddle shifters come in a variety of different styles as ready to install kits and will be available on our ready to race wheels. OSR EVO 1 - Magnetic Paddle Shifters Prices start at $90 CDN and includes: Two Paddle arms Two Paddle bodies Two Real 3mm Glossy Carbon Fiber Paddles Four 1/2" neodymium magnets Eight M3 bolts Eight M3 nylock Four brass pivot inserts Two knitter switches 100mm soldered wires to each button Make sure to check out our many other products available on our website at www.opensimracing.com. If you’ve any questions or if you’re interested in getting a quote for custom work then send us an email at opensimracing@gmail.com.
  35. 1 point

    The Ever-Evolving Vision Racer and VR Room

    Good stuff..thanks for sharing It's definitely next on my to do list.
  36. 1 point

    The Ever-Evolving Vision Racer and VR Room

    Great job...looks cool
  37. 1 point

    The Ever-Evolving Vision Racer and VR Room

    So I've finally finished up my little wind simulator, or as I like to call it a "breeze simulator". I'm happy to report that it works extremely well and was dead easy to build and get up and running. The fan angle can be quickly and easily adjusted and it locks strongly into place so that there's no slippage from the wheel vibration and movement. The breeze is just enough to keep you cool and you do notice the change in fan speed through the corners. You could if you wanted add a stronger fan such as the Thermalright TY 143 - 140 mm Fan and even add two more as the board supports a total of four fans but you'd need to replace the PSU to something a little better as recommended on the SymProjects site. Overall I'm very happy with the finish and I think it looks good on the rig, a nice little clean solution. Below are photos of the final build and the full list of parts. AC Infinity Ventilation Grill Corsair Air Series SP120 PWM High Performance Edition - Twin Pack Livestream® Gear - 1/4"-20 Ball Head Fan Controller Aluminum Project Box Small right angle stainless steel corner bracket Some nuts and bolts Drill and drill bits
  38. 1 point

    t300 ( alcantara ) broken and apart

    Yep. I have 32v output from the transformer...assuming its not 24v because of no sag from unit powerup. The powerup sequence above does nothing. I have tried it several times...in different usb slots. I have voltage on board at points I can test (like the two large caps). Also picking up small voltage at the "testpoints" on the pcb but have no idea what I should be looking for there. I also checked for continuity on the usb plug side to the input points on the board...all good. Figure either the board is dead...or the motor. Not sure how to test a brushless motor without a working speed controller. Also TM has not responded to my asking for spare parts...so I am probably chasing my tail at this point anyway.I would assume a non response = no. About all I can do....tried really hard to fix this. Thanks for the help all.
  39. 1 point

    ISRTV Daily DiRT Rally League

    Nice one TT,,, Dirt rally is gonna blow your mind once you get up and running,,, yep i'd definitely go with the lever for traction loss as it's a simple design plus pretty much silent,,,also your quite lucky as that ebay vendor is in your neck of the woods too so shipping wont kill ya if you do decide to go with those type of motors,, PM me if you need any help setting stuff up dude.
  40. 1 point

    T300 GT vs T300 Alcantara vs T500 RS

    I also would recommend the T500Rs. My T300 only lasted about 3 months,I have had the T500 for over a year and it is still going strong. You can adjust the force feedback on both wheels.When I was using the T300 I would set it around 75-85%. I get a lot stronger feeling on the T500 at 60%. The T300 is a little smoother though but there seems to be a lot of them failing after a few months
  41. 1 point

    iRacing - Raining yet?

    They have also taken care to build up the dynamic environment in stages. They put in particle physics before dirt. Road temperature changes and rubbering in of the track. These are important to get right before adding rain. Rain will cool the road and add many complexities so having a well established track temperature model, rubbering, particle physics etc so that the impact is progressive, and realistic feeling.
  42. 1 point

    Found a great deal on a CSW v1, now questions.

    Yes, all newer rims and wheels are compatible with the CSW V1. The motors in the V1 are brushed and thus they run hotter and the FFB is no as smooth as the V2, which has a brushless servo motor. That being said, the V1 is still a great wheel base. I had a lot of great races with mine.
  43. 1 point

    Thrustmaster Paddle Mount

    Have you ever looked at magnetic paddles and thought you would like to upgrade or wanted to mount a simple button plate? I have been designing a complete range of magnetic paddles from budget friendly to high end, so thought it would be good to support these on my Thrustmaster base. The adapter comes with a space to easily mount the following circuits Derek Speare's Micro circuit Bodnar Circuit Moggen Thrustmaster circuit The front stiffening plate can be made in real carbon fibre or Stainless steel or aluminium. The slots allow you to position the paddles to your personal preference. I have also designed a range of spacers to help you get the ideal paddle offset.
  44. 1 point
    John Sabol

    Need help deciding CSL Elite or CW v2

    Not that this is going to help today, but should have the ts-pc vs csl vs csw v2 vid out by the end of the month and can look into this.
  45. 1 point

    Do you ever get out of the car in VR?

    This is all from Assetto Corsa. I'm not sure if any other Sims will let you get out of the car. AC you can. Yeah VR is the best thing since sliced bread! I love it!
  46. 1 point
    Ole Racing

    Fanatec CSL Elite

    Received my pre-order last Friday with the F1 rim, using my existing CSR Elite pedals mounted to Next Level Wheel stand. I first mounted the base with the two back screws and a Velcro strip for the one front hole. Rock solid BTW, however I didn't want take a chance in voiding the Warranty by not using the three mounting holes so the next Morning I headed out to my local big box Hardware store and picked up 6mm button head screws. Next level Wheel Stand wheel plate is bolted to the crossbar. I removed the wheel plate drilled one hole, mounted the wheel plate to the wheel base using 3 (6mm button head screws) and than bolted the plate back on to the wheel stand. There is a slight gap between the wheel plate and crossbar, button head screw is very low profile which fit perfectly in the gap. Now on to my experience using the wheel. I've recently sold my Thrustmaster TX with F1 rim, T3PA pedals along with a Logitech G27 set to pay for this. (Have also owned Fanatec Forza CSR and Porsche 911 GT3 V2 in the past) I have to say this wheel is in a total different universe than all the other wheels I have a had, the FFB is by far superior in every aspect. Games Iv'e played so far are Project Cars, RaceRoom Racing Experience and F1 2016 (all on PC) F1 2016 was a bit of challenge to get button mapped (steering) and as bad as FFB is F1 2016 this wheel gave it new life. Now it's not even close to the other two games but big enough difference that I'm starting my career over. I've read a few reviews that almost caused me to cancel my pre-order saying Fanatec CSL Elite is equal to the TX, I can say in my opinion no way not even close, it's way better.
  47. 1 point

    computer build

    6700k have a much faster clock speed and can process more instruction/cycle compared to 6850. But multicore is the future. If I was you I would wait a short while so more information on the new AMD Ryzen sr3(5core), sr5(6core) and sr7(8core) cpus come out. Maybe the new AMD cpus will offer better bang for the buck performance than Intel offers right now. And not only that, the new line of AMD video cards are also upon us called Vega. I think it will perform like a 1070 at least maybe even better. Everything should be disclosed this week at CES. But If you want to build a machine right now then get minimum an i5 6600/7600K with 16Gb of ddr4 3000/3200mhz of ram and one gtx 1080. Sli scaling seems to be worse and worse and it is better to stick with only 1 card. For more punch and because sim games are more cpu demanding pick an i7 6700K/7700k with 16GB ddr4 3000/3200 mhz ram and one gtx1080. And if you want an even better machine then pick the x99 i7 6850k with 16gb of ram and yet again one gtx 1080. Maybe Iracing can scale with more then one gpu but other games wont necessarily do that.
  48. 1 point

    New Wheel

    I have never used a G29 but I had a G27 for a couple of years. It's a decent wheel but now I have a T300 and it is so much better IMO, the force feedback is better and I love being able to change rims. I would recommend a T300 if you can afford it.
  49. 1 point

    custom pedals

  50. 1 point

    Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V3

    Yup, you will need to rearrange all the spacers etc on the 3 rods connecting left and right sides/plates of the set, plus extend one of the swapped pedals cable with a coupler+RJ12 bit of cable. I had to anyway, as one of the swapped pedals cable is too short in pedal's new position