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      ISRTV Amazon Store   11/29/16

      Hi All, We created an Amazon store that's pretty basic and currently only for U.S. shoppers. If you purchase something from it and then other items through Amazon, we make a small commission. It won't cost anymore than Amazon normally does but will help support our show and website and would be greatly appreciated ! You can get to it by going here : http://www.isrtv.com/isrtv-amazon-store/ Thank for your support !

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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/24/17 in all areas

  1. 15 points
    lopsided

    Custom Button Box for iRacing

    Ok, now that we have newly retired Jack (Catapult) show'n all of us "professional" retirees up I figured it was time to get to work on a little project that I'd been wanting to do. I just recently started iRacing and my DSD Black Max is labeled for rFactor 2... hmmm, what to do? After using different labels overlaid to keep track of my button mapping I decided I wanted to design a button box exclusively for iRacing. I have 13 buttons on my rim so I knew roughly what I wanted on the box: Black Box Choice: Tires, Fuel, In Car, In Pit HUD: Relative, Times, Delta (tinee button below Delta is for Ghost) Pit Stop Adjustments: A little fuel, a lot of fuel, no tires, all tires Set up choices: Bias, ARB, Mix (I labeled two buttons "AUX" as some cars use adjustments that are not available in others) Volume: Spotter and Chat volume with mute, Channel changer Another desire of mine was to use a variety of different buttons and layout that would help find the right button without looking. Rows of buttons have always been a problem for me and with the switches I had in mind you would be able to determine where your hand was by tactile alone. My little "corner" is also pretty dark and I wanted to mount LED lights directly on the box. I had been using a Velcro to attach a light on my Black Max which, while efficient, wasn't purty! I felt I needed to use the same button box mount my husband had so lovingly welded for me that holds my Black Max so I decided to use a Hammond 1599 project box. It is the same dimensions as my Black Max - this permits me to exchange boxes instead of labels. Seriously... I just wanted a little project. I'm pretty sure hubby would gladly make me a new bracket. I started collecting a variety of knobs, buttons and switches and ordered a controller board from Derek and set out to design a one-of-a-kind, custom button box for myself. Decisions Decisions This was by far the most difficult part to the project. I had a hard time figuring out just what I wanted but seemingly no problem changing my mind dozens of times. (And don't even try to tell me it's only us ladies, I've watched all of you guys change your rigs around a gazillion times!) Using Graph Paper and some double sided tape I put the "grid" in place and tinkered with my spacing and layout. Making sure to not only plot the size of the mounting holes but also consider the size of the actual button to insure they did not land too close to one another. I found a handy drawing template at our local craft shop which made quick work of calculating the drilling diameter for each button and switch without needing to use my calipers or ruler to measure. Oh yeah, and it's good for drawing too. :/ I used a sharp awl to mark each center point and took the box to my drill press. Drilled Box I was very surprised my holes ended up so nice and straight as I did not use a fence, just the dimples made by the awl to seat the drill bit. There are some things in life that I will devote a lot of time to ensure they are as near to perfect as I can get them... this was not one of them but I still took my time with it. Test Fit As you can imagine not every button would match a drill bit exactly (unless you've got the colossal set) so I used a reamer to give those of odd sizes a snug fit. Wiring I purchased Derek Speare's "no matrix" controller board. With these you won't need to "chain link" all the ground lugs together, instead, the ground wire on each switch or button goes directly back to the board. I knew using this pin style board was going to be a very tight fit as the Molex like connectors on the end of the Arduino Jumper Wires stand fairly tall. With all those wires and buttons vying for real estate inside the box I had serious doubts I'd be able to get this board to fit inside such a shallow case. (Sorta like trying to fit into my wedding gown today). In order to eliminate as much wire "bulk" as I could I cut the length of the wire as short as I dared, wiring them one by one instead of wiring all the buttons and simply plugging them into the board (a.k.a. the faster, non-retiree way). I also had to have room for those tall connectors to fit between the button rows as the 1.8" of box depth would not permit them to go above any switch. For my two volume rotary encoders I chose the CT3000-ND as these also incorporate a Push Button Switch in the encoder. So now my Chat volume knob can be pushed to mute/unmute chatting and my Spotter volume knob can be pushed to mute my lap times… something I like in practice hate during a race. You wire the encoder as normal (center is ground, outers are leads) and treat the two upper lugs as you would a typical switch. Unfortunately these do not have your typical lugs with holes which make soldering a breeze. Instead they look suited for a breadboard or jumper wire. Unfortunately while they looked like a good fit the Jumper Wires did not grip the lugs securely so on a whim I decided to gently curl the end of each lug over to give my solder and wire a place to congregate. Configuring the DSD controller board to work with rotary encoders is also very easy… like I said before, the only thing difficult about the project was the planning. Once you've got everything hooked up you can open your Game Controller>Properties and make note of which numbers light up when using the rotary encoders. Download the Configuration Utility from Derek's site and check the box number that are rotary encoders, save your changes and you're in business. Simple and straight forward. Another advantage to using the Arduino style Jumper Wires that I purchased (they come attached to each other) was separating them into pairs or triplets. It made things a little less hairy looking inside the box. I was unable to locate the correct adhesive backed PCB standoffs that were used in my DSD Black Max so I had to steal them from it to finish my custom project… but I only had two and need four. I've got some more on order (don't want the screw in types) and hopefully these will be the right ones. Graphic Overlay I've had the idea for a while now to make the entire faceplate of my button box a single overlay. In the past I've used strips of individual rows of graphics to label the buttons. That made labels very easy to change but it wasn't the look I wanted. So instead of having to sticking individual labels beneath each button or row I printed the entire faceplate - background and text. I used a sheet of glossy photo paper which I laminated for durability and placed 3M double sided adhesive on the back (pickguard adhesive actually, as it comes in large sheets). This way the entire label/faceplate was peel and stick once I was done. I can of course re-label this box if I want to in the future, however it would require me to remove the buttons. No de-soldering though, just unplugging. Kinda helps control my issues with always changing my mind. lol Laying out the words and icons were a bit more challenging as well since I'm limited software wise. I started with measurement but quickly felt my brain locking up. lol I decided to use a trick that has worked very well for me in the past... I took a straight on picture of the box with switches in place and then cropped and entered the Image Size in Photoshop to ensure it would scale properly. I won't say they are absolutely perfect but they are definitely close enough. Branding My Box Pseudo Motor Sports? yes indeedy. When I began league racing I needed a team name and as I am one of very few women in sim racing I thought the play on words as quite clever... a.k.a. PMS racing! lol Light Her Up! The corner I race in is quite dark and lights are necessary. While I liked the idea of using the LEDs "on a strip" I knew they would require an enclosure of sorts. I decided to butcher a gooseneck LED light I had and run the wires right thru the top. Mounting it was extremely easy... I drilled two small pin holes on each end of the light and I threaded wire thru to anchor it in place... think 'twist tie". The large button on the bottom right corner turns the light on and off. I must say I like it. Not only is it unique but the layout of the buttons make finding the right one easy and quick. The different shapes, sizes and heights make it easy to locate your position… similar to the nibs on a keyboard. And while I have no need for another button box this has sparked my creative nature and makes me want to make another, just for kicks and giggles. Besides… I've got a lot of parts left over. Back to retirement..... Bailey
  2. 15 points
    SpaceHedgehog

    Show your cockpit 2015!

    A gallery thread is a very good idea. Here's mine ... - Fanatec CSW v1 - Fanatec CSP v2 with DSD Tilton pads - Fanatec CSS SQ v1 - DIY Rig - Hacked DSD button box - Android phone running DashmeterPro - Ultrawide monitor - Sparco Sprint seat - 4 Mini LFEs with Simvibe ... and the most important bits: - Fire extinguisher - Seat belt - Tow hook Rig pictures: Seat on side mounts and seat runners: Real carbon fibre dash: LED lights and tow hook: Shifter pod with extinguisher: : DashmeterPro on custom mount: And an accessory to many a motorsport pile-up, me ... Video tour:
  3. 10 points
    Have a tablet? Need a free button box? Limited by 3 controllers? I've been working on a little graphics project and wanted to share it with those of you who might find it helpful. Many of you have probably heard of or used Roccat's Power-Grid tablet software, but for those who haven't let me give you a brief introduction. What is ROCCAT Power-Grid? Power-Grid is a free program that runs simultaneously on your desktop (race computer) and your tablet (Android or iOS). Your tablet serves as a "remote control" permitting you to push buttons on your tablet to open a program, run a macro or simply execute a key press on your desktop. Power-Grid allows you to make your own grid of buttons using their included icons or add your own graphics. With a few simple clicks you can create a button, chose it's background/icon, give it a function and add sound and text to it or use pre-made grids that come with the software. Why bother with this if you have a real button box? I use my own button boxes for sim racing, however, physical button boxes count as a controller. Older titles like Race07, GTR2/Power and Glory, rFactor and the like limit us to 3 controllers. As a result I can't use my real button box when running these sims as it places me over the 3 controller limit. (Wheel + separate pedals + h-shifter + button box= 4 and that is after I've disconnected other items I'd prefer not to. ) I use Power-Grid mostly for older titles but have also used it for Assetto Corsa since I can never remember their keyboard shortcuts. You can make a custom grid for each of your titles so it provides just the "keys" you find helpful for that sim. That also allows you to leave your keyboard mappings as you currently have them if you use different ones in each title. It's also very helpful for those of us who are older than the posted speed limit (hey, I'm not talking interstate here, slow your roll youngens). Having each button clearly labeled helps greatly when memory does not ah, serve. Some, for instance, may desire a label like HUD while others prefer MFD... that's why I've made such a large assortment. Power-Grid's Limitations - No Landscape One of my biggest gripes with Power-Grid is the fact that it does not permit Landscape Display yet. When rotating a tablet from portrait to landscape mode there is no change to the displays orientation. And since you cannot rotate the text, icons or graphics with it's software it forces you to use it in portrait only. That no worky for me. My buttons are made for Landscape only as anyone can make a portrait display using the icons and text already available with the software. I have designed my grid to look like an actual MoTeC keypad, something like this... I made a fairly nice assortment of buttons which should cover most needs but suggestions are welcome. (PM me if you have a request). If you notice any mistakes, like a button doesn't light up or click when pressed please let me know. When the "MoTeC" button is pressed, the lights on top will light up giving you a visual indication that the button has been pressed. You will also hear a click thru your desktop computer. Rocker switches are two-part switches with the Upper and Lower parts labeled. If you have never used Power-Grid these are detailed instructions on installing my custom buttons. It is very easy but just in case someone is struggling I've tried to cover all the bases. Most will probably not need to read directions as Power-Grid labels things nicely. How To Install / Use My Buttons - Download and install ROCCAT Power-Grid on to your host/racing computer. - Download it's remote app onto your tablet (directions on linking is in link above) - Open up your race game and make note of the in-game button mappings you use (ex: M = Trackmap). These must be entered into Power-Grid for it to function, otherwise you can click til your heart's content but it won't do anything. - Download my custom button package (I have it in my Dropbox as I don't know how else to share.) - Open Power-Grid on your desktop (host) and click the Editor tab Note: your IP is needed for the two to communicate. Check to ensure your AntiVirus is not interfering if you have issues. - Click Import Package (left column, bottom) and chose the downloaded file (.rpgp) - Click on the Create New Grid icon, (right column at top) This will give you a blank slate for making your own custom grid using my buttons - After importing, you can find my buttons under Controls > Custom Controls (left column, top) When you chose a button from the list it will display it in the center column so you can see what it looks like. - After selecting a button you wish to use you must enter the keyboard key which you want mapped to this button. Enter this in the Function Box. (center column, top) Here you can also remove or change the button click sound and change the Trigger. A "Double Tap" trigger might be suitable for buttons like Ignition, Restart, View to prevent accidental taps. Note: The Active Graphic and Background URL's must not be altered or my button will not display correctly. It is designed so that the 3 small lights at top glow when pressed. Since the Text Title cannot be rotated my buttons include the text, so leave this blank in the editor. The only option you must assign is Function so that it triggers a command/key press. - After entering your mapped key under Function you can now click Add to Grid. The button is added to your grid and can be moved to any position. Repeat for each additional button you wish to add. - Once you are finished with your custom grid click Apply and save your layout. You must click Apply for changes to be seen on remote tablet. - Click Add to Bar to place your custom grid into a slot for ease of selecting. Note: Power-Grid limits you to a couple of "slots". A slot holds the Grids you choose, enabling you to switch easily between Grids. While you can purchase more slots, you don't have to. It merely simplifies things if you need 4 or more Grids at the ready at all times... most people won't. To work around this simply add the Grids you use the most to the slots and swap them out if you run out of slots. Hope you like it guys. Bailey P.S. Word files simply list what keys I have mapped for each button's functions. Download MoTeC Grid (Universal) Euro Truck Simulator Grid Word file for ETS Game Stock Car Extreme Grid Word file for GSCE RaceRoom Racing Experience Grid Word file for R3E
  4. 7 points
    J_SAMa

    DIY Sequential Shifter Build

    Hi all, Thought I would share this sequential shifter build. Hope it can help those wanting to build a similar one: Housing is made of wood. Don't have the skills to make it out of aluminum :oops. Still looks pretty good when painted black: The stick (a long M10 bolt) is secured to a stud connector, which has a hole drilled in it. It rotates on the smooth section of an M6 bolt with spacers on either side to keep it in place. And the main mechanism is fitted on a another long M10 bolt, but with a smooth section to reduce friction. Secured to the stick via a rod end bearing: Lots of DIY shifters use two separate return springs for up- and downshifts but this mechanism uses only one, saving a lot of space. Each piece of wood has a hole drilled in it and a pair of flanged bushings are fitted into the hole. This part is not painted so as to keep friction minimal: One pair of bushings slide out of the hole as they are pushed but the other ones stay put, compressing the spring. Their roles reverse when pushed the other way. The flanges on the "outside" bushings act as stops to prevent the mechanism over-travelling and hitting the buttons to hard. Spring plungers for the "detent" or "in gear" feeling or whatever you call it... As the nuts on either side push pass the plunger the resistance drops. The plungers are threaded into 5 mm thick aluminum plate and locked into place with half nuts. The aluminum plate is then secured to the main wooden housing. Resistance can be changed by adjusting how far the plungers protrude. Got this whole idea from ARC Team's shifter which they don't sell anymore... There are other ways to achieve the same feel but compared to my failed prototype of a different design this is much easier to build. The mechanism pushes on buttons on either side. Currently hooked up to my old Fanatec wheel as I don't have a separate controller. Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZq0eSNBk-U PS: Spring plungers are pretty much impossible to find in regular hardware stores but this website has a load of them https://www.berger-tools.co.uk/Standard_MacHine_Elements/Gn6153_Spring_Plunger_With_Internal_Hexagon_Steel_Or_Stainless/
  5. 6 points
    SteveS

    OSR - Minimalist Plus Rig

    All the joining plates are laser cut from 2mm stainless steel, which works out just a little more expensive than standard 8020 L brackets. The universal wheel mount is designed to OSW wheels or Bodnar or Thrustmaster or Fanatec.
  6. 6 points
    Matthijs035

    New Dutch member and new DIY rig...

    My rig has been powder coated in gray and black colors! Better images will follow asap ! Sneak Preview :
  7. 6 points
    I had a little time to compare the lenze Argon kit from Dennis and the Ioni mige kit from Ollie. They are both great wheels and a step up from what I previously tried. (g27 -> fanatec porsche gt2 -> CSW v1 -> CSW V2 -> Accuforce). The lenze was around 2 times as much at the price I bought it for. The lenze definitely feels slightly better when you run both motors back to back. It has a more refined and smoother feel to it. Not to say the mige is bad in any way. It actually feels really good and a step up from what I have tried before. I would be very happy if I had the mige only especially at the price it currently sells for. Ollie's kit is a bit more work but pretty straightforward once you know where everything goes. The solution from Dennis with the enclosure is a really nice plug and play solution with minimal set up needed and the enclosure looks excellent. https://youtu.be/ITrytOOrZ8k
  8. 6 points
    Jason Palmer

    New metal rig build.

    Good sir i think you will find thats the proper location for a shifter !!! I dont normally even bother with a plan at all, so this was a step up from what i usually work with ! I have now used the spare tubing to double up the side runners to get rid of the the slight flex at full brake. And to solve a small creak from the seat base i have added some extra bracing. the whole rig is now flex and creak free so i moved on to how i am going to move it in and out. I decided to keep it very simple, and cheap! I have used some half round 5mm thick pine strips to act as guides when sliding the rig in and out so it stays in-line with both the wheel and monitors. The under side of the rig has 10 feet attached that are designed to allow furniture to move about on wooden floors. They feel like Teflon coated round plastic buttons and as i have used them before on my corner sofa i know that they last and glide about on my floor smoothly. The rig moves very nicely now and those thin runners are just enough to keep it straight but don't foul the rig. This is the rig in the driving position, and then slid all the way in when not in use so that the door can be closed and no one is the wiser as to what is in there, just as the wife asked. Jason.
  9. 6 points
    Jason Palmer

    New metal rig build.

    I have now started to fit the hardware including the shifter. For the shifter i have used the spur on the base to build an arm to mount it to. And here is the simple arm mount. After fitting it to rig i used a spare piece of bar to hold the top steady by bolting it to the seat base. I then fitted the pedals and as mentioned before they will help hold the mounting box section tight together, I then moved on to the seat mounting. Again this will be hard mounted to both the front and back of the seat box section holding everything tight together, Finally the seat can be fitted properly, In the next part i will talk about flex and my solution to fix it. Jason.
  10. 4 points
    DavynDominguez

    DIY Sequential Shifter

    I own a th8a shifter but it drive me crazy every time I need to change the plate from H to sequential, so I decided to make my own seq shifter. I've converted a cheap rally handbrake from ebay to a sequential shifter by removing the master cylinder. It's console compatible because the shifter is wired to paddle wires left in the T300 base. Here some pictures of my mod. I really like the feeling and the clicking noise of gear change.
  11. 4 points
    Sleepy81

    Simetik cockpit

    So I finaly pulled the trigger, and built myself a racing rig. It took a few days, and a lot of work, but I'm happy with the result. Firstly, I want to point out that I am not affiliated with any of the companies i "review" here, so if it's good or bad, i will say so based on my personal opinion. The Rig The rig is based on the Simetik K2 cockpit. I had never heard of this company before, but I read a good review of it on a forum, and decided to give it a try. The reviewer claimed it was made of "panzersteel", as it was very sturdy! Also based on the website, it looks like it was created to match the geometry of the Audi R8 race car, which has to be a good thing right? Anyways, for the price (225 euros pluss shipping) it is indeed very good and sturdy. I have not owned any "hi-end" rigs before, but compared to my old PlaySeat, it is lightyears ahead. Its fairly heavy, weighing in at about 25 kg without seat, and is constructed mainly of 3 or 5mm sheet metal (steel?). So the product is very nice, and the support was outstanding. Nuno from Simetik, which handeled my order, told me that if I was very tall I'd probably not be very comfortable in the K2. So, he offered to make me a custom version 5 cm longer then standard, with no increase in price. That's what I call good pre-sales support! However, some issues I have with Simetik, and those are realy minor, and I guess would be an easy fix for them, as it is manly to do with the order prosess. - When you order, they don't have a "webshop" per say, but you order via direct e-mail contact with the company. That is probably fine for now, but if/when they get more sales, that will not work. - I tried to order the K2 with seat, but that was out of stock, even if there was no indication of this on the website. - The design for the screen mount/tripple screen mount on the K2 is to far forward, hence I went for an Obutto Tripple screen mount instead. - No assembly instructions provided. - Even with a 5 cm longer model, I had to redrill holes in the pedal plate further back for the Fanatech CSP v3s to not have the seat all the way back the whole time . (I'm 185cm tall). A 10cm longer model would be ideal for me. But dispite these minor flaws, the overall experience with the cockpit and Simetik was very positive! The rest OK, So I have a TM T300 with the Ferrari 458 wheel (with custom wheelplate by SRH), and a custom made (by me) F1 wheel. (Following Pascalhs excelent write up here: http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/12982-thrustmaster-f1-wheel-mod-with-simr-f1-display-switches-and-encoders/) I won't bore you with T300 review, as thats done to death, but needless to say the pedals leaves a lot to be desired, so I ordered a set of Fanatec CSP V3s that I recieved a few days ago. I had the G25 with a hyd brake mod before, but I really like the Fanatecs. I have not recieved the small hyd dampeners yet, but event without them I find that the load cell works fine. Not as good as propper hydraulics, but pretty close. And lap time wise, you won't see a difference. Clutch was to light for my liking, but a swap to the included stronger spring fixed that. Rumble motors on brake and throttle pedal are just about worthless. To weak to be able to feel them, even when racing in socks. And with 5 buttkickers on the rig, it just overpowers them completely Buttkickers run by SimVibe. 4 in chassis mode, and on in extentions mode hidden inside the shifter pedestal. Works nicely, and gives a lot if feedback and immersion. Won't race without it now! That's what I had for now.
  12. 4 points
    Mayaman

    I present to you the REAL GT. As Real As It Gets.

    New video guys. Its getting there.
  13. 4 points
    Prim4te

    F1 Style - Wood/8020 Hybrid

    Started with Steve Spenceley's basic f1 cockpit plans and let it evolve naturally
  14. 4 points
    inky99

    DSD Hydraulic Handbrake DIY Project

    For anyone else that is interested in making their own i have put together a list of parts that i used along with prices and where purchased.It works out at about £175 all up including the USB controller. As you can see I had to add a Button Box with hat switch to mine as i use my own wheel that doesn't have buttons on it and i didn't fancy using the keyboard to navigate menus.As it runs from the same USB controller it was simply as case of wiring everything into the controller.Works a treat.
  15. 4 points
    Here's my implementation using Bailey's buttons... (the glare makes it hard to see the buttons because that tablet is my good tablet, and it has a nice bright screen) I think it works very nicely... I still have to put some REAL buttons on the rest of the dash, but having a touch screen button box / control panel is cool for a very casual sim racer like me. Thanks for your hard work Bailey!
  16. 3 points
    Mestizo69

    Evolution sim rig

    I bought this playseat Evo and Logitech G27 almost 2 yrs ago not knowing too much about what sim racing was about. After doing research on the hardware of sim racing I realized what I bought wasn't the best. So instead of selling it I decided to modify the crap out of it with ideas from YouTube or sim racing forums. It is still work in progress but I am happy with the direction it is going. Thanks for taking the time to look at my post.
  17. 3 points
    Time for an update: I removed a lot of items that I wasn't using to clean up the rig a bit. I had been waiting for the Accuforce for some time now. I had concerns over the slip ring issues and didn't have much of an interest for the standard/included wheel. The Black Friday launch of the Accuforce (non-Pro edition) fixed all of that. I was finally able to get the Accuforce with a Momo Mod30, which I paired with Holger's Q1R. On the right, you can see my new fancy $4 keyboard holder, allowing me to easily grab the keyboard and mouse when needed, and holding it securely in place when not. Genius. I'm very happy with the Accuforce + Mod30 + Q1R combo; as far as I know, I haven't seen anyone else go this route. The AF quick release/slip ring is a really slick option, but its often out of stock and currently has potential slip ring disconnects. I had a NRG quick release on my ECCI, but I prefer the simplicity and solid connection of the Q1R. Besides, its damn good looking too. This upgrade has now created a new list of desired changes: I can now finally replace my pedals (I really wish someone had some first hand experience with the SimCraft Tilton pedals) I need paddle shifters (Precision Design Worx?) and a button plate. I know everyone likes lots of buttons and shift lights, but I'm thinking of something simple. Still not sure how many buttons I want. My DSD shifter is too low, might look for a replacement (MANU?) Time to look for a 2nd wheel for prototypes and open wheelers (Mod 27C, modded Fanatec Formula, custom?) Fun fun fun, the rig marches on...
  18. 3 points
    savagess

    DIY Handbrake Mount

    Was after a handbrake mount for mounting a Fanatic Handbrake onto my Vesaro rig. vase just have one out but at £150 plus shipping. That would be over $320 Aussie dollars. A lot of money, especially when I'm saving for quad motion, also it is 9mm thick, not sure why so thick? So sketched out my own mount, did a template and and tested and adjusted until happy. gave to a mate who had it done up in Autocad and laser cut. Only issue was the bending, had it made in 5mm thick metal. Friend had an idea of cutting it down 3mm, then we could bend it, then he tig welded the cut and linished it. I then peeped the metal, bogged any imperfections, etched primed and two pack painted it. Did a left and right if I ever want to change sides. I think it turned out great.
  19. 3 points
    DerekSpeare

    DSD Hydraulic Handbrake DIY Project

    The frex uses the same brake mechanism, commonly found from HK and China. Their device is a load cell action. What I've posted here is a full and complete DIY list so anyone can make their own hydraulic hand brake, and other than the mechanism being the same, this is nothing like the Fres. Of course, we sell a finished one, but the DIY guide was posted in the spirit of building community value. Have fun with your project.
  20. 2 points
    G Lamb

    100% homemade rigs

    I'm new on this forum! so i will presente you my homemade rigs (note english is not my first language) i work in a exhaust shop so alot off my material is exhaust part the project is not finish! some paint and improvement needed i use to slim metal sheet for pedal and wheel support. I have to remake it the seat is mount on car slider seat! i can adjust the seat to have a f1 or a regular position the steeing wheel is a thrutsmaster TX with t3pa pedal add-on , some other steering ( all in the photo ) and a hand brake mods with the classical ebay stuff the console is made off wood covered off fake leather i integrate the control bouton off the seat in it. Because i can't reach them with the console in place (off course the console is fix on the pipe with 2 exhaust clamp!) I use a xrocker gamre seat with 2 speaker and a subwoofer in the backrest ! i don't have shifter yet but soon i hope! i will instal it on the side off my handbrake on top off my console
  21. 2 points
    I posted this on the AC forum, but in case anyone missed it there.....time to grab this killer VR enabled sim + any or all DLC for 50% off! AC is on sale from now thru the weekend! 50% off!!!!! http://store.steampowered.com/app/244210/ Not sure what the US prices are, but they're at an all time low for Canada. $16.49 CAD for the base game $27.49 CAD for the game + Dream Packs. All DLC is 50% off as well. I finally completed my DLC library with the Red Pack today. Excellent deal for VR enthusiasts, as this is easily one of the best performing VR sim titles out there (aside from the non-VR UI).
  22. 2 points
    jimmyhigh

    A new level of respect for ISRTV

    - Thank yourself there's a place like ISRTV. A place where everyone likes sim racing. And if you don't, then f*** you! JK jk. Some of you may know me from direct drive life. Others may not. But I'd say I'm somewhat of a regular here, even though I've retired from sim racing 2 times within like 3 years. (Women, I blame them). 🤔 Umm, well I've been back for like 2 months or so, but nevermind that now. There's something I must write about. I'm simply here to spread a positive message: keep it positive. Sim racing is a very unique and niche hobby to have, and it needs a place like this, with a very good community for a sim racer. Also be thankful there's regulars who like helping others out, and who like when you share your pics, or stories, or list your setup, or post your lap times, etc... That's pretty much it. If you still want to read more, I'll tell you what lead me to post this. - Not every sim racing forum is like this one... I got a gran turismo sport beta invite last weekend. I streamed 60fps videos onto my direct drive life YouTube channel. And of course, since there is plenty of things " GT " related to post about, I thought, why not go back to GT planet and posted a big thread full of hours of footage etc; some with tons of commentary, and some with just nothing but car porn and sounds and replays. It had been a while since I was posting there. Then I soon remembered why I stopped posting there... I was dissapointed soon after. I received a PM from a regular advising me not to respond to "d-bag06's"comments on the thread I had just made. (ok that wasn't his screen name) but we'll call him that for this story. So this other member who messaged me gave me this back story on how this other member d-bag06 and a few of his chums flood the GT threads trolling etc etc. So I thought to myself, is this real? This forum must be getting pretty bad if I'm getting a message from a friendly member (and apparently a fan) warning me about the trolls at GT planet within hours of posting a thread Yeesh. So despite my attempts at promoting humor and positivity, - oh and not to mention 60fps footage of a really f***ing good looking game) I saw a large amount of negativity, not just in my thread but all over, from jaded fans who have moved on to other sims, yet feel strongly enough to continue to post in GT forums, and pick apart the commentary from someone playing it. Lol. One claimed I was bashing GT sport...Me? I f***ing love GT. Gran Turismo is Genesis for me when it comes to actuall sim racing. It all took off from GT. Having said all this ramble, I just wanted to say that I much prefer ISRTV. You all are nice. Lol. And I'm a nice guy (uh, mostly) and if you are a regular here, I salute you for making this place a positive community. I'm certainly not an angel here all the times. I've posted a fair amount of rants. let's face it, I talk alot and have alot of opinions both here, and on ddl, and not all of you agree with some of those opinions, but I still respect those of you who feel differently because you keep things positive and classy at least, even if proving my a$$ is wrong on something. I keep a sense of humor about things too, and I hope you all remember to as well. In the end, the discussions and debates in the threads on ISRTV more times than not lead to good things: learning something new, keeping us feeling like a cohesive niche community: a community full of guys (mostly) who can't afford to race in real life, but are skilled enough to do it on a screen and make it look like the real thing. Love it. Always will. Jimmy
  23. 2 points
    Seth Francis

    WANTED: Gaming PC. iRacing capable

    $1500 Is actually a lot, you dont need to spend that much for something that will run iRacing on high settings at 1080 and maintain high FPS.
  24. 2 points
    DjFIL

    Rate This Setup

    Sounds nice. I'm really happy with my GT Omega ART. Hope you're in it for the long term, as that's quite the investment. I see too many people coming back to the buy/sell area saying they're selling the equipment cause they fell out of the hobby only months later. I've been able to justify my purchases (including to my wife) as I've been sim racing for about 20 years now.
  25. 2 points
    Awesome! I just mounted my OSW/Mige wheel to the RS-1. Holy cow! This thing is AMAZING! Fantastic wheel, I had no idea what I was missing. You'll need to drill new holes in the mounting plate for the RS-1, but otherwise it fits great along with the V3 motion platform. Here's a pic of my mount, to give you an idea of how I got it all installed.
  26. 2 points
    CrazyCoconut

    Rate This Setup

    Doesn't quite fit my definition of 'beginner' but if that's the kind of experience your aiming for, then go for it.
  27. 2 points
    CaTaPulT

    Pimax VR

    Here's my update on the Pimax VR headset. For sim racing.... do NOT get this headset, it could be the 60 hz refresh rate instead of 90 (Vive and Rift), no matter how many settings I changed in various sims, I could not get it to display a clean clear crisp image, a lot of blurriness and some ghosting. Also the head tracking (gyroscopes) are unreliable at best, one time they work fine, the next they drift out so you're no longer looking forward to see straight in VR. About the only thing I might still use this thing is for other types of games and for 360 degree videos. I'm back to my triple monitors for sim racing and after straining my eyes for the last 5 days or so, it's so nice to see everything clearly when in racing sims. I do have to admit, this thing did give me a introduction to the world of VR, it can be rather neat, but it has a long way to go before I would want to use it full time instead of monitors. I would like to try Project Cars with a Vive or Rift just to see how much better that actually is, but I'm not willing to buy one, maybe when they come out with the next generations of VR headset, hopefully something with much better displays and a more efficient way of using VR instead of needing a Super Computer to run it. Just my thoughts.... over and out! Take care Regards: >>>> Jack <<<<
  28. 2 points
    CaTaPulT

    Pimax VR

    Hi everyone. I did receive the Pimax VR headset on Wednesday. I've been messing with it since trying to get it to work the way I want it to. I did end up going to a drug store and picked up some cheap reader glasses which is helping lots (not perfect) as far as seeing things in VR better. With my regular glasses the images would appear somewhat clear only if I looked at one small part of my lenses (progressive lenses). So far, I still have mixed feelings about the Pimax and VR in general, but I am still in the process of experimenting with settings in both the Pimax software (PiPlay), in game settings and video card settings. I will say this, VR is way cool when it works, I've downloaded a few free things and seeing stuff in VR is nuts, makes you want to reach out and touch it. I also bought a wired Xbox 360 controller to use in some VR software since the Pimax comes with no controllers. As of right now, I've not experienced any motion sickness (I don't think I ever have in life), in Project Cars, VR is a little fuzzy unless the focal point is very close, best way to describe it is kind of like looking through heat plumes (heat rising from hot pavement?)...... I'm still working on getting it to look better (so many settings in Project Cars)...... as for the positional tracking, this is something that needs improving. I've had some 10 lap races where everything was fine and other times, the cockpit view would drift as the race went on meaning, I started the race looking forward, by the end of the race, I had my head turned off to one side or the other a bit to see out front of the car I was driving. Pimax are putting out new software revisions fairly often and they keep up to date on the Pimax firmware updates as well, so in time, I hope they fix some of the shortcomings of this headset. I've not tried Assetto Corsa much, here again, I need to mess with video quality settings, AC is far from being my fav sim (lack of tracks I like) so I've not spent much time there. Setting up the software for Rift and Vive compatibility can be a pain in the butt, it seems to be a lot easier to set things up for the Vive (SteamVR) than it is for the Rift. My impressions so far, I'm not sorry I bought this thing considering it's price point, it's giving me a chance to experience VR cheaply to see if I want to stay with it. Playing project cars in VR is a blast, it took me a few races to get the hang of the feel and how the VR car reacts as compared to triple screens, but now I understand when people say they can run faster in VR since it's in a way easier to see your corners and how close they really are. Comfort wise, I did NOT install the earphones that come with the PiMax, they are quite nice and big (covers my full ears), I prefer using my 5.1 surround speaker system, this is a matter of choice, the Pimax does show up in Windows "Playback devices" and I had to turn it off since it goes to "Default Device" once you install the PiPlay software. The headset itself is pretty comfortable, the 3 traps are fully adjustable and easy to get the Pimax to sit on your head comfortably, I think the longest period of time I had it on my face was one and a half to two hours. What I miss about my triple screens....... my SimInstuments Dash (can't seem to get a HUD to appear in VR on Project Cars) thus depending on the car, not knowing what gear I'm in. Button boxes, if you use a lot of buttons (iRacing comes to mind) then unless you know exactly where those buttons are by feel and muscle memory then button boxes become useless. Well, that's it for now, I will report back as I learn stuff. Take care Regards: >>>> Jack <<<<
  29. 2 points
    sebj

    iRacing - Raining yet?

    They have also taken care to build up the dynamic environment in stages. They put in particle physics before dirt. Road temperature changes and rubbering in of the track. These are important to get right before adding rain. Rain will cool the road and add many complexities so having a well established track temperature model, rubbering, particle physics etc so that the impact is progressive, and realistic feeling.
  30. 2 points
    Well what an adventure installing the OSW was! not finished yet but its almost there. First of all the T1000 was not built for an DD wheel. the wheel deck is too small I was thinking to cut the existing wheel deck off and weld a new plate plate on, and was thinking about using 4 or 5mm plate for that added strength. Here is a pic of the issue, sorry about the quality. with the bracket on, none of the holes lined up and is too big for the wheel deck. My friend Ray came over to help me, and he had a bright idea he suggected we flip the brackets and do an inside mount. after looking at it, it might just work! and its did, but not without drama! because the bolts are now inside, fastening it was a night mare if you were a small Indonesian child it would be fine. we eventually got it on, but not without a lot of swear words involved we marked the holes, and it had to come on and off several times for the perfect position only because the wheel deck isn't completely flat, because its hand welded the surface is screwed about 5 degrees, on and off on and off with washers to get it to the complete flat. now with the unit so long, it was cramping my arms and I didn't want to move my seat further back because of the load I would put on the back actuators so I decided to remove the q1r quickrelese which would get me about 10cm closer and bring me back to almost the same position. so after removing I ran into this problem, the 9 pin connector for the button box would hit the servo motor!!! what a pain in the butt, so on it went again finally after 5 hours of work, she was mounted and we started to configure software of course this wasn't straight forward either! but luckily Fai was on messenger and he gave me support straight away. helped me thru the process and we got it singing. first impressions was WOW this thing is awesome, so much detail comes thru the wheel and its sooooo strong we had to turn it right down. still a lot more to tune but I was very impressed. More to come soon!
  31. 2 points
    My new HPP 2PRX-SE pedals finally arrived and the little engineer inside me is doing backflips. I don't have them installed on the rig yet, but man are they pretty. I was able to meet Mark in person when I picked these up and he was describing how overkill/bullet proof they are. I think I'm going to have to make my first foray into 80/20 so that I can get these lined up nicely on my SimXperience pedal plate to ensure they are mounted securely with some adjustability (even though the whole plate moves).
  32. 2 points
    Steve, That's because tablets are hard to use when wearing fireproof gloves and the FIA does not permit us to cut the fingertips out. A physical button box has tactile feel so it's easier to use when wearing a dark, daytime visor that could otherwise inhibit seeing a tablet screen. I just hope the Rift is adjustable enough to fit over my helmet. LOL B
  33. 1 point
    Edit: I've found that a shorter 30mm spacer will also work in the application, see added pics, below. ______________________________ I thought some here might appreciate a how-to guide to integrate your OSW wheel with Fanatec Rims, allowing plug-and-play with no rim modifications, and keeping all button box, display, and vibration functionality with your Fanatec Rims. The principle here is simple: use a Fanatec/USB conversion board and route all signals through the in-hub quick release. I'm going to mention specific parts sources, below, but you could substitute if you're comfortable. Our end goal is this: There are 5 key parts needed for this conversion. 3 are easy to obtain, the other 2 can be tricky. We're adding: a 5cm hollow hub extension (to internally house the conversion board and provide room for wiring), a Fanatec Quick release, a Fanatec wiring harness, a coiled USB cable, and the USB conversion board itself. The 5cm hub extension is easy. The bolt-circle for both the OSW wheel attachment and the Fanatec Quick release is 70mm. I ordered a very nice machined/anodized aluminum unit off Amazon, seen in the photos here. Here's the link to the Amazon extension. For the USB conversion board, I used the Leo Bodnar board. It's available here. There are other options for this board if you're comfortable with Arduino programming, a Google search will reveal other options. The Bodnar board is plug-n-play, and (importantly), can be easily modifed (shortened) for the use here. Likewise the coiled USB cable is readily available. I ordered this one. The Fanatec Quick Release came with my OSW wheel package from Tomo Meglic at Simracinbay.com. I don't believe these are available separately. I highly advise ordering this magnificent, stainless-steel machined connector at the time your order your OSW Wheel. I can highly recommend Tomo, and his OSW packages are a great way to get into an OSW wheel. The final bit is the wiring harness from Fanatec. This is available as a spare part from Fanatec. I opened a chat session with a customer service rep, and said I needed a replacement. As I had a Fanatec CSW v2 wheelbase registered on my account from a prior purchase, they authorized a sale of this part to me. It cost $5. The Fanatec "Product Code" for this part is "SP-CSW MC new CSW main cable". You could also remove one from a Clubsport base if you prefer. I wish we had a better source for this critical part, so good luck in obtaining this harness. Now, onto the installation. First, I installed the Fanatec Harness into Tomo's quick release hub: I used spare 3mm nuts/bolts I had. Be sure to align it correctly, the "gap" in the pins goes to the 6 o'clock position (opposite the machined channel) on the quick release. Also, please use a thread-lock on your bolts and nuts. I used Locktite 271 Red (high strength). This part will be constantly pounded by the FFB and if you don't lock these nuts, they will come loose. I didn't have room for lock-nuts, it was a tight fit and I had to use small-outer-diameter standard 3mm nuts. With the harness installed, I mounted the steering wheel adapter and 5cm steering wheel spacer onto the OSW motor shaft. Be sure to work the 4 attachment bolts until all are very snug and none move anymore. It takes quite a bit of time to tighten this down, but you'll eventually reach a point where all 4 bolts no longer are loose. Another important point: please index your OSW wheel prior to attaching the final quick release. This allows auto-calibration of the wheel on startup. To index your wheel, hookup your OSW wheel and open the MMOS software *without* anything attached to the motor shaft. Rotate the motor shaft and hit the "center wheel" button in MMOS. Note the "offset" setting. Keep rotating the shaft, hitting the button, and noting the offset setting. Once you have the offset setting somewhere between -400 and +400, you've found the center point. Make a mark on the motor shaft at the 12 o'clock position, and align your installation so this mark is at the top when you finally attach the quick release. Now, for the conversion board. You need to make a couple of modifications. To start, you can shorten the board. I cut the board on my band saw about 3-4mm away from the USB attachment plug. This allows the board to easily fit into the 5cm steering wheel extension. Here's a picture of the board after cutting on the band saw: The second modification is the plug from the harness. The harness attachment is a 12-pin plug, while the Bodnar board has an 8-pin connector. You need to remove the sides of the connector on the Bodnar board, as well as the tabs from the 12-pin connector on the harness. I used a hobby knife for this. The proper attachment is to flip the 12-pin connector upside down (the former tabs on the plug will face the bottom of the board), and attach this from pin 2 to pin 9 into the Bodnar board. Here's a picture. I used a red marker to indicate how this fits for future use. Also, I prepared the coiled USB cable at this time. I cut off the mini-plug, and you'll find the 4 standard USB wires (Red, White, Green, Black) inside the shielded sleeve. I preserved a good length of the shield sleeve wire, as I attached this to one of the mounting bolts on the wheel adapter to reduce EMI. I also drilled a hole in the 5cm steering wheel extension, as you can see, to pass the coiled USB cable through. I fitted a rubber grommet over the cable before inserting the USB cord into the spacer. At this point, you're almost done! I attached the shield cable from the USB wire to one of the attachment bolts: And the last thing is to padden and insulate the Bodnar board inside the spacer. I wrapped it all up in a generous amount of electrical tape, before bolting it all together. Here you go: And then bolted it all together. Be sure to get the alignment right on the quick release. You want the slot facing directly up at the 12 o'clock position. And there you go! You use the Fanaleds software to control the button box, display, and vibration functions. Works like a charm! You've got full plug-n-play with your Fanatec wheels, and can swap rims between your OSW box and your Fanatec bases with ease. Hope this helps, let me know if you need anymore assistance in the comments. Edit: it turns out, the 30mm spacer also just (barely) fits in this application. If you want a shorter length steering column, this is the way to go. I upated my rig, and in my application (R-Seat N-1), it aligns my shifter and handbrake mounts very nicely. (still waiting on my HPP pedals to complete my rig)
  34. 1 point
    Timracer

    Sim-lab P1 build

    Hi all! Here you can find a video of the build of my 8020 sim-lab 'rig': https://youtu.be/EpDjbymPTcc Enjoy!
  35. 1 point
    mph08

    new to sim racing wheel help please ?

    from our chats iv gone with thrustmaster t300 with fanatec cspv2 with cpx v2 basherboard . thanks again everyone
  36. 1 point
    UNKLE

    Open Sim Racing Store - Now open

    For those who don't wish to purchase an enclosure with a plate then we have a spacer solution to mount the controller board inside that goes behind the front plate rather than using an additional backplate: https://opensimracing.com/collections/adapters-spacers/products/circuit-mount-spacer We are also in the process of making a paddle shifter mounting plate for those who don't want an enclosure. If you send us an email with what you have in mind then we can work something out with you. opensimracing@gmail.com
  37. 1 point
    Diablo2112

    NLR GTultimate + OSW wheel. Will it work?

    Oh, that's a good thing to know, that RSeat can supply a longer connection plate. I used 2" spacers from my local hardware store, along with longer M6 nuts/bolts. Here's the pedals on the spacers on the RS-1. Basically, just short pieces of thick tubing.
  38. 1 point
    Ptg baby cow

    new to sim racing wheel help please ?

    in terms of consumer wheels V2.5>V2.0>CSL E=TS Racer Pro>TX/T300>=T500>T150=G29/G920
  39. 1 point
    UNKLE

    Pre-Assembled Wheel Rims

    Thanks DjFIL for choosing OSR, feel free to email us should you have any questions. As well as providing custom solutions we've also got lots of ready to race options to choose from and if you are on a budget we can also work with you to come up with a solution that works for you.
  40. 1 point
    robnkel

    Pimax VR

    Looking forward to your comments and comparison.
  41. 1 point
    Awesome, thanks. i can get those from my hardware store. just gives you a more progressive feeling right?
  42. 1 point
    Oh this is tempting... and I'm just over in Houston. Ooo, let me check some things (budget-wise). I actually own a set of the V2. I was using them with my Thrustmaster TX (bought the CPX adapter) until I resurrected my older simulator PC and CSR Elite so I could have two systems to train a team that's participating in the LeMons race down in Angleton (MSR track) in May. I'm even making a virtual version of the track for them. So the V2s are being used with that system, and my T500 pedals (with Ricmotech load cell) are back on the TX (I just figured out a way to increase pedal resistance with added torsion springs). So... it would be nice to use the CPX adapter again with the V3s with the TX. Ooo, geesh. What to do. What to do. Video: Testing the secondary simulator, temporary setup in front of the home theater system...
  43. 1 point
    Mark Spruell

    new to sim racing wheel help please ?

    Sorry to see no one replied to this. I've never used the Fanatec, so I can't comment there but the Thrusmaster stuff is good. I wouldn't hesitate to get a TM 300, especially if you have the funds to get the T3PA pedals and a load cell brake upgrade (available from Ricmotech). Fanatec isn't known for their longevity, so I'd be weary of used Fanatec. Neither Fanatec or TM matches Logitech build quality, btw.
  44. 1 point
    Crash T Dummy

    Trak Racer RS8 Mach 4 Cockpit Review

    That is theRs6 a new less expensive model, which seems to be inspired by the Rseat Rs1. The Rs8 is still the top of the range model, and has the pedal clearance improved on the new Rs 8 Mach 5 version.
  45. 1 point
    cicciara

    For Sale: Thrustmaster T300 Alcantara, T3PA, TH8A

    I would be interested in just the rim. 599XX EVO 30 Wheel Add-On Alcantara Edition
  46. 1 point
    Manny_NotTheStig

    How bad are playseats?

    The first playseat was junk. But the playseat evolution and others after it have been good. I used my playseat evolution for several years before building a pvc rig. I still have it in case my son wants to get into sim racing.
  47. 1 point
    stevemontuno

    Future options

    I'd say chuck a bit extra cash into the pot and get an OSW ,,,,, i wouldn't go as far to say the csw v2 is a toy compared to the OSW but for example ,, you might sprain your wrist with the clubsport but the OSW will break your arm off,,,lol ,,, in a nice way of course
  48. 1 point
    VSteve

    Thrustmaster TX handbrake

    On the Forza you can change between e-brake and Clutch. If you have 2 pedals set, it's not hard thing to make an analog e-brake. I don't know any other games.
  49. 1 point
    BattleGear

    T300 random button activation

    i konw this issue! there is nomthing wrong with the connaction between the rim and the base. maybe is a cable broken or something like that^^ as i made my prototyp and solderd a conversion cable from ps2 to vga a bad solder connaction broke and made a random activity on all buttons! but cant remember which pin it was...
  50. 1 point
    KingJamey

    My Sim Setup-KingJamey

    i like to show off my custom made PlaySeat Sim setup. I'm from the Netherlands and always played GranTurismo on Playstation. My first wheel was a logitech GT and played it on ps3 and loved it. With my transition to PS4 i need it a new wheel. on my search for a wheel it al came down to the T300RS Butt the T300RS has a lot of force. So my playseat wasn't that stable anymore. The FFB on project cars was a new world for me what a force.!!!!!! So i started to customise my Play seat. Please watch and enjoy my setup . summary: -Used Playseat with suede Seat. -30,- euro on steal and 3 nights of welding -T300RS -32" Philips TV for just 275,- euro -a cheap BT Keyboard for all the extra functions in Pcars -Logitech F540 Headseat. nice headset with a lot a functions. -PS4 with a 2TB disk -iiyama B2409HDS Monitor for the telemetry through VRHive Still to come: -th8a shifter -t3pa padals Please leave youre Comment sorry for my bad englisch And greeting from the Netherlands